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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 26, 2011 - 02:19am PT
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So i thought i'd post a few of my photos and see if anyone else has anything to share!
How do i link photos straight from flickr?
Tami you are correct it is Kangaroo Corner. That spaceman is my the logo for my production company.
You were involved in the fa on this one no? Any stories?
Mike
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 03:17am PT
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Last weekend it was a bit rainy so we headed out to Nightmare Rock at Murrin.
Luke wanted to lead Grandaddy overhang so he hung me a rope and i took pics for the pinkpoint attempt.
Yours truly cleaning the gear..
One of the drier 5.9's in Squamish on a rainy day, Big Daddy
It was pretty busy there.. a few randoms
My buddy kyle decided to lead the "Big Barn Door" 10c
no send unfortunatly. He lost a foot just after the crux
Nightmare is a fun place to go play on a rainy day!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 02:01pm PT
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Thanks for posting up Coastal! I recognize the pillar, and the Buttress crux pitch!
Is that rurp riot aka dreamcatcher? What are the others?
Mike
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coastal_climber
Trad climber
British Columbia
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Sep 26, 2011 - 02:57pm PT
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I'm not sure which aid line it is actually... haha
other photos are of me and a friend on C.Wall and myself on a .10b route near ronins corner
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 03:03pm PT
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More?
Me on pitch 3 Upper Echelon
Photo Credit Py Boivin
Photo Credit Luke Cormier
Last one isn't mine but i did a lot of work on it in photoshop.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 03:31pm PT
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Hey Coastal, that "10b" is Desperado and it goes at 10c in the Mclane book.
Your one in the south gully looks to be close to Rock On but i don't remember those moves so it must be bad pants or something else in that area.
Tami you are right, at 6'7 my wingspan is quite large, which is probably why i prefer trad and not so much short boulder moves. It gets tough when your butt starts hanging way out there.
What did you guys rate Kangaroo? 11a? probably not. Dunno about Sentry Box.. Mclane guide is where i get my beta and he's had it that way since the 2001 guide at least.. I haven't led it yet so can't comment.
You'll be glad to hear that the lettuce hasn't fallen out of style at the crag :)
50 footer at Nightmare eh? That woulda been a big whip, especially for that area!
Thanks for the stories! They are always better from the "horse's mouth"
(NOT calling you a horse!) :)
Edit: Shame about the zip.. Took my first upside down lead fall there after I stupidly hooked my foot... Shook me up a bit but taught me a valuable lesson. Hopefully the muni can figure out some kinda compromise.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 26, 2011 - 04:09pm PT
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50 footer at Nightmare eh? That woulda been a big whip, especially for that area!
Just imagine yourself as a non-climbing cinematographer. You're lying on your back on top of a big boulder, planning to shoot straight up, waiting for some idiot to fall from directly above you. You've been told nothing can go wrong because the badass climbers (who all seem to be about nineteen years old) have rigged it so the guy falling will stop after about 25 or 30 feet. Since you're almost 60 feet below him, you convince yourself that it's going to be okay.
Then he's airborne and falling. And falling. And falling. Coming to a stop just a few feet above the spot where you've just sh#t your pants.
He (the camera dude) wasn't real happy when the director said they'd have to do another take.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 04:37pm PT
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Ghost! ROFL!!!!
I was thinking that a 50 footer would be really close to the ground! :)
Good thing no camera guy pancake! I'm guessing the second one was a bit shorter :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 07:44pm PT
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One more of Kangaroo
edit: Figured out img tags!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Sep 26, 2011 - 08:09pm PT
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thanks for the photos. Haven't thought about Center Street forever. It looks a bit grassy in your second photo. I don't remember why, but I took a pretty good fall on that route one day a long time ago.
The Zip is a beautiful crack. I remember my partner Steve taking me down there and I was thinking "all these beautiful walls why are we groveling around in this shady swamp?". But it was worth it. Climbed it many times and it might be my hardest free solo (after having wired it).
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
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Hey Mike,
You are welcome. Crag X is a little under used these days. It could definetly use a good scrub.. Maybe if i have some spare time this fall.
Interesting story about the Zip... Two of my buddies went to lead it this year and after sending found that they were marooned by the tide! Apparently things got a little wet on the way out :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 08:34pm PT
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Nice Jim....
I led the pillar for my first time ever on the Summer Solstice this year. It was after work and still early season for me so it totally drained me. I had to rest on just about every piece on the way up.. At the top i had to transfer all the gear off my harness to get into the squeeze.. just barely!
When i got to the top and clipped the anchors, i looked up and understood immediately why they call it the "Sword of Damocles"! It looks like a giant guillotine just waiting to slice your melon!
Tami- I have read the Climbing at Squamish in the 1970's thread in it's entirety! In fact it's what brought me to the taco stand in the first place! I tried to encourage Anders to continue but i think he's been too busy lately..
You might find it interesting to know that i do find the lower moves on kangaroo quite tough especially with my large fingers... You are right tho.. Once i get to the decent holds, it's all over.
I started posting these photos on Squamishclimbing.com but no one took any interest, so i thought maybe here they might spark some more tales of yore from the Squamish vets that hang out on the taco.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 08:48pm PT
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Tami you mean when i finally do get my butt to Yos! Too bad.. Steck-Salathe sounds like fun.. ;-)
edit quality=#1!
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bmacd
Social climber
100% Canadian
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Sep 26, 2011 - 09:04pm PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 09:07pm PT
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What's it called Bmacd??? Topo?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2011 - 12:12am PT
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Thanks Jim i will.. don't worry Tami i got lots of short friends to lead that chimney pitch ;)
My buddy luke wants to do The Nose. He went to Yosemite this spring for a couple weeks and got inspired to do it.
He came back trying to convince me to go clean aid u-wall. I'm a freeclimbing addict and the weather was good so that never materialized this summer.. I'm game tho.. Verticle camping looks like fun :)
I've been following Tom's El Cap Reports to check on Ammon and Pete's ( Busted!) ;-) progress and of course view his awesome photos.
Bruce- You guys inspire me. I hope i'm still climbing hard and contributing in my later years.
Luke- You're on supertopo now? :) shoulda known that link would bring you over here :) That's the best photo of my ass that i have ever seen :)
Funny thing about that pitch.... Luke decided that we should make it interesting when we went up Milk Road. He decided that if either one of us should decide to give up a lead he would owe the other a sixer. I agreed and proceeded to lose the rochambo. Luke chose to lead the first pitch meaning i would have the sharp end for all the hard pitches :) Dammit!
After I led the 10c a0 second pitch i was done. I managed to get through the first Milk Run corner clean on top rope but that second pitch was ROUGH! I worked my way up to about where you see me in that photo and
got the piece in and tried to run it out to the better holds but was unsucessful getting gear in and took a decent size whip..
After that I was done and so last weekend I bought Luke a case of Steam Whistle :)
Any one for another photo?
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Sep 27, 2011 - 01:50am PT
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frickin crazy,
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2011 - 02:15am PT
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Right you are Sprock it's not Dreamcatcher but it's neighbor Kloset Klimb at Cacodemon Boulder.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Sep 27, 2011 - 02:42am PT
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tami, will you mari me?
are you a high priced baby?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2011 - 03:10am PT
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Sprock I can dig man
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Sep 27, 2011 - 03:53am PT
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"Big Barn Door" 10c
2 bolts? Really? It's V-nuthin'. Just gang pad it!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2011 - 11:44am PT
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Biotch- Really? You did that? How did you get back down? I would not like to downclimb that flake.
Last pitch of Upper Echelon
Climber Py
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 27, 2011 - 03:50pm PT
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Photo: Matt Cormier
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2011 - 09:43pm PT
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Tami I thought about that but I haven't tried it yet. I'll be sure to give it a go next time. I "Tron"ed that thing so i should really sack up and lead it next time too.. I was in photo mode that day..
Speaking of Center Street
by Mike Cowper, on Flickr
Edit: Luke tell Matt nice photo! I wanna climb sparky's crack now! The 10b second pitch looks sick!
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 27, 2011 - 11:11pm PT
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Hey Tami, I have a question for you regarding one(of the many)the FFAs, the route in particular "Overlyhanging out" @ the malamute sent by you and Peter C. in 1980. The current route according to my trusty ol' K.M. 'A Climbers Guide To Squamish' 2001 Edition the main overlap sections are accessed via 'Meares Island', but It notes that You and Peter are believed to have started on 'Cling Peaches' and accessed the overhanging dihedral from the lowest possible point. Which IMO is more appealing line as it maintains the same natural line through out.
If you have any recollection of the particular route it would be super rad to hear what you remember. I was in the area today takin some photos of new lines I would like to climb and what not, and this line really appealed to me, albeit the access to the corner needing some vegetation removal.
I would have some photos to perhaps refresh your memory and provide eye candy for those who have not yet seen all the amazing cracks in the area. However I decided I'd rap in to check out the route and apon pussiking out of there I managed to trundle my (girlfriends) digi cam in to the abiss, along with all the rock porn I was going to drool over until it dry outside... oops.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2011 - 11:59pm PT
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oops. guess your gonna have to get that g12. My phone died today guess i'm gonna have to get that iphone going.
Maybe if you find the camera the memory card will still be intact?
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 28, 2011 - 04:00pm PT
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Thanks for the reply Tami, I enjoy reading your recollections of the golden era! I'm about to head back to the area and try to find said camera, and clean the access to lowest, most northern entrance into the feature. Hopefully the memory card or perhaps(extremely unlikely) even the camera is still intact...
Yes Tami you are right the name is Acadian, I grew up in Prince Edward Island, how ever my father father was never close to my family, having kicked my dad out of the house when he was 14, so I never really got to find out where the name came from or any of my ancestry.
-Luke
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 28, 2011 - 05:31pm PT
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Hopefully the memory card or perhaps(extremely unlikely) even the camera is still intact...
You never know. I dropped a camera (Nikon, in the film era) from the start of the fourth pitch of Rock On many years ago. Watched it plummet straight onto the rocks in the gully. I didn't think there'd be any point in looking for it, but decided that maybe the insurance company would believe me about needing a replacement if I could actually show them a shattered piece.
So when we got down I trudged around to the south side and back up the gully to look for whatever was left. What I found was a completely intact and usable camera. A filter I'd had on the lens was shattered and there was a dent in the lens barrel. That was it. I took some pictures to test it, and they were fine. (I did replace the lens barrel, but could have chosen not to.)
So go look. You'll probably find wreckage, but you never know.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 29, 2011 - 12:35am PT
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50m+ of air time, unnoticed. I didn't realise it was gone until I went to take a picture... When I went back today and rappeled in, this time all the way to "Meares Island" and spent a while sawing back the alder bushs that have overrun the area. Then I decided, what the hell, I'd scope the Island as I thrashed my way down the sloppy, berry bush covered terrace, I notice glint of pink, and there it way perched mid berry bush as If it had a soft landing, was Aislinns Hot Pink digi cam... and yep still works, although the screen is slightly more dinged it still tkaes a might fine picture.
Also tami here's pictures of the crack I inquired about:
-The start would need a clean up, but it IS illegal to BE on the ground there. Possible solution; put a bolted anchor at the start of the crack. Thoughts?
Then in thru this:
And then the Icing on the metaphorical cake:
-2 Nice undercling section and 2 technical looking slab sections inthe the ultra goods!
If indeed you and peter did FFA this section of the route then It would ultimately be your guys call whether or not I can add an anchor for rappel access into this delightful looking traverse, as it is trespassing on B.C. rail property to access via that grungy looking corner .
Thanks,
http://thekidcormier.blogspot.com/
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2011 - 12:55am PT
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Tami- Awesome story. It musta been cold hanging there holding the rope for so long. Did you guys ever clean stuff before the fa? Or was that strictly frowned upon?
I'm always amazed at the stuff you guys did on hip belays back then.
I toprope hip belayed my parner on the crux pitch of sparrow this year.
I think she would rather not ever repeat the experience and will never let me forget my atc at the belay again! :)
Your beautiful story deserves another picture. Seeing as That Kid Cormier inspired said
story, it seems fitting that it should be of him.
On the Roo
Luke, If you look at your book again you will notice that the FA is the one that started on Cling Peaches on aid.
This gets me to thinking about Grub Street. Me and a buddy did it this summer and it was super fun.
I led Cider crack and found it very sustained! Not your typical Squamish 9! We did the Knuckleduster variation to finish and it was excelent.
I was wondering what line you guys did on the FA. From the 01' book it looks like you stayed right for the first two pitches and then deeked
left for the last one. Did you do the left pitch or stay right on the Knuckleduster variation? It also says you can finish up right on Stooges.
Allright all this talk.. how bout another picture..
Anyone ever climb this one?
Ghost- Funny story. Ever tell Nikon that one? Looks like your camera isn't the only one to suffer a large fall and survive :)
Luke- You should post that question on squamishclimbing.com too.
Squamish Sunset
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 29, 2011 - 11:48am PT
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Mike: I took your advice and posted my question on squamish climbing, maybe i can spark some conversation on there. I'm going to head back to the malamute to attempt an onsite on clean crack you should come and send caboose! I'll be heading down around 4:30, gimme a call.
And since you have read the squamish 70s thread you should know that tami noted the would aid and clean line on the rain days and then free them when the weather was fit.
-luke
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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Sep 29, 2011 - 01:17pm PT
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 30, 2011 - 10:56am PT
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Tami, good call I'll toss in a couple SLCDs, easy peezy. I've never rappelled into a gear anchor before so the thought didn't cross my mind.
And BTW that is The Table as seen from Brohm ridge
Bruce- Thanks for the story about Meares Island naming, who won the battle?
Nigel- Sweet pics thanks for sharing, what were you guys sending that required such an early start?
Here's some phots of the notorious climbing message board lurker Kyle Korrol;
P.s. Tami you are well educated on acadian history...
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Sep 30, 2011 - 12:03pm PT
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Bruce, I reckon the Natives and the good folks of BC won that battle. The war still rages.
Ya, the environmentalists (hippies?) looked good in the news, as did the Raging Grannies, but most of them were from the universities in the city. Same with Carmannah, Tsitika, etc.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 30, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
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Climbing in the summer used to be just one big brown fog out with the delicious smell.
Yup. And now it's just one endless parade of noisy automobiles on the highway below you. Is pollution from yuppie whistler-goers better than pollution from redneck mill workers?
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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Sep 30, 2011 - 12:46pm PT
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@thekidcormier
Two Alaskans I met (Todd & Dustin) were racking up for the Grand Wall. Figured I'd help them finish their coffee, and wander out to take a shot or two by headlamp for poops and giggles since my partner wouldn't be out of his tent for another 3 hours. They ended up on Bellygood by noon. Here's a couple more,
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 30, 2011 - 01:05pm PT
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Bruce, where ya climbing today? need a belay?
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 30, 2011 - 01:38pm PT
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Whuts got helium in it right now & is at the top of the front page of this forum makes me wanna throw up all over someone.
... I dont get it.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 30, 2011 - 01:39pm PT
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... I dont get it.
Stick around for a while, you'll get it eventually.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 30, 2011 - 01:53pm PT
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Ha ha Tami. You're right that this is a great thread. But that ghastly poo-filled thing that keeps floating to the top is one of the funniest threads in a long time. (And yes, I'm guilty guilty guilty of bumping it.)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 30, 2011 - 02:01pm PT
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Here's some more Squamish porn.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Sep 30, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
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Mmm, one of the best 5.10's in Squamish. Nice photo.
Speaking of the Badge, wasn't that buldging bicep photo of the undercling on the Planet framed up on the wall of the olde Mountain Burger? I seem to recall being inspired to do it every can visit of every breakfast special I scoffed down there. Rappelling off the Planet after that undercling pitch was fun stuff, a memorable dangle indeed.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Sep 30, 2011 - 04:18pm PT
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Hah, no not Flavelle.
Glad you like kitty porn Tami. Yes, a thought provoking avatar. Leaves many unanswered questions...
Incidentally, Relic's jet boat's name was "Hi Baller". Cool, huh? He lived in Whistler? Wow.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Sep 30, 2011 - 07:05pm PT
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 30, 2011 - 10:46pm PT
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Prepping for a 1993 November attempt on U Wall. Guy on the left is eating a mcdonald's big breakfast with a LA piton. Guy on the right is reading Deuce's how to book. Note pink lawn flamingo rigged with duct tape in the gear pile.
M. shows the damage from a 20 meter slab fall while attempting & failing to clip the bolt after the big runout on White Lightning
Spelunking in the depths of Sunshine Chimney
I remember the first time I did this (92) there was a campfire complete with 70s-era stubby beer bottles on top of the chockstone.
Bullethead East Direct p2 this summer
P1 of the Planet
Climber on Calculus, from Powaqqatsi
Bar Knuckles
The increasingly innapropriately named Clean Boulders
Quartz Pillar
Winter sunset light on Mosquito
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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Sep 30, 2011 - 11:45pm PT
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Nice shot of U-Wall, Relic!
A few weeks ago I was down at Seasoned in the Sun and ended up 1/2 leading, and 1/2 watching some Brit on the .12d portion of The Shadow... It's that dihedral in the back of the shot for anyone that doesn't know. Anyways, for about half the climbing he sounded like he was trying to squeeze out the most persistent, combative turd he'd ever had, though finally did manage to pinch it off clean. When he let out a whoop at the top of the pitch his buddies, our party of three, and a few others lord knows where started cheering at full volume. There were probably 7 or 8 monkeys screeching away for a while in some sort of group high.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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How did you know it was some token brit on The Shadow from way down there? Did he yell out a few "bloody hell" screams in between the turd squeezing?
That is a pretty proud pitch. After Croft onsighted it in on the FFA in 1988, it didn't get repeated until over a decade later. My friend in the U-Wall picture, he made the second free ascent of The Shadow. He downgraded it to 12d from Croft's original 13b grade. Subsequently, The Shadow started seeing more and more ascents.
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nature
climber
back in Tuscon Aridzona....
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TFPU
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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anybody do dream catcher lately?
i drink urine.
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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He started talking at the ledge up top... before that it was just REALLY loud pushing in the thin stemming stuff. I was happy to watch because that is one seriously PROUD pitch. Looked super sustained, and the sounds of struggle were enough to get me more focused on his climb than mine. I was curious about the gear, too... What's the pro like in the business?
As to Dreamcatcher/Rurp Riot, Sean McColl was the last guy I heard of sending it. Video!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cFdX1ypCXA
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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sean who?
does he work at the lady's foot licker?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2011 - 06:53am PT
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Wow! This thread took wings today!
Bruce- Thanks for the inspiration.. Something to do while Luke is scrubbing OHO. Loggers sounds like its right up my alley.
Unfortunately logging seemed to go the way of the dodo bird all round BC. My home town of Campbell River was similarly affected growing up. One day everyone was flush and had new clothes and cars and houses and the next all the “good jobs” at the plants were gone and everyone was looking for work, selling everything and moving away.
I remember taking the Stoker chair up as a kid to get back to the bottom of Solar chair after coming from the Blackcomb Glacier. Stoker run is still there and is a favourite of mine on a day where solar still isn’t open yet.
NigelSSI- Sick photos. I love the Pitch In Time one, I was at the bulletheads 5 or 6 times this summer.. Bullethead East was a blast! There has been a lot of good work there lately.. Still quite a few routes there could use some love too.
Ahh yes the other reason they call it the Sword. Can't wait to get on that pitch. Got a look at it this summer up close, but had to bail cause it was dark :)
Tami- like Luke said you are right it is the table from Brohm. Take the drill.. Gotcha :) If i ever make it over there :)
Ya the Malamute closure sucks bigtime. I went in there with a partner 8 or 9 years ago now and he led Caboose and we top roped Clean Crack. I was barely up to the challenge of Caboose and was completely lost on Clean Crack. I would love a chance to do those routes again and would do so in a heartbeat, were it not Illegal. You think they could put up a fence or something... CN .....
“But we all have lost that war what with the Wall St banksters and their Ponzi scheme economics.”
You are so on the money with this..
Ghost- Is pollution from yuppie whistler-goers better than pollution from redneck mill workers? Looks like we traded one evil for another... I think logging paid better than tourism.
Nice photo of Blazing Saddles. I did that one for my first time this year , had to take a break just under the roof then when I got up over the roof I was so gripped on the shitty slab foot and couldn’t get a good jam lost the foot and couldn’t hold it, whipped over the roof.. pretty fun actually.
All right all this talk.. Where’s the photos? Here’s one.. Not mine though Jamie Chong’s. Came up when I looked up Sean McColl. Nice work on the SA btw Sean! You made it look easy! So casual and collected.. Sharma had to fight for that FA! This pic is from an early 2009 practice Run..
Jim you must have missed the link to the Dreamcatcher FA that Dr. Sprock put up?
Sean McColl - DreamCatcher - Squamish, BC by jamiechong, on Flickr
Tami- “Certainly cleaning has been taken to some wildass extremes now. I'm not fond of what was done to the Cling Peaches wall ( someone used a power sprayer pumping water from the slough below - or so I was told ). But then again hard for me to judge what with some of the unearthing I did BITD.”
This is what I heard too, and it was very clean when I was down there this summer. If we left it alone and didn’t climb there it would all grow back within 5-10 years anyways..
I wasn’t out with Bruce today I was at work in the rain. That was Luke who offered him a belay, but I would not be averse to giving him one either...
Thank you for contributing to this thread all!! The taco has had a significant lack of Squamish content since Ander’s thread died off and Patrick Oliver inspired me to share my pictures more on his Old Photos Just for Fun Thread.
And just for Nature another photo. This is one of the few times I ever went bouldering outside.
Relic- Super sick pic of U-wall!
Oplopanax- Sick road rash! Good work, very nice photos!
ROLF! “Turd squeezing”
Dr. Sprock- ok ill bite why do you drink urine?
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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Big Mike, that boulder problem is 'The Cutting Edge'. Pretty fun!
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sick photos everybody!
@Relic, doesn't the shadow go at 5.13 if you link the first pitch into it, or something like that??
eatting mcdicks with a piton, hilarious!
-Jeremy Frimers newest route, Flex Capacitor
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YetAnotherDave
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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This thread is looking a bit too serious - time to stop for a cold one:
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2011 - 08:41pm PT
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Jim I saw Sprock reply to something with more than three lines the other day and I was shocked! :)
Bruce- Nice story about spotting.. I thought someone might say something when i was going through the photos... :)
Spotting is important though. I had a buddy spot me on Charlotte's Web this year at Chek, and I said "Oh no don't worry i've climbed this a million times" but he spotted me anyways and I slipped on a wet patch and peeled before the first bolt and landed on his foot. He kept me from falling down the slope there and I was fine... So was his foot but it hurt for awhile! Thanks Rick!
Hmm... Photo?
This is my buddy Josh working Gom Jabbar 13b at Chek. Lurker Kyle belays.
JoshGomJabbarm by bigmike1974, on Flickr
NigelSSI what does Cutting Edge go at v3-v4?
The Chief in the winter
YetAnotherDave- You are absolutely correct. I just cracked a Blue Buck to join you. Let's celebrate with another photo.
Josh on Gom Jabbar again.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Has anyone repeated Peter's onsight of what for most is the second pitch of University Wall, also sometimes called (rather confusingly) part of "The Shadow"? Did Devin, when he did the first repeat?
Noting that University Wall starts from the ground, below the Flake ledge, and climbs big bushy corners to where people usually start the climb now, perhaps 200 m off the ground. Possibly no one has ever truly repeated all of U Wall.
I wonder how many bolts are now in the route? IIRC, Glenn, Tim, Dan and Hamie (two post here) used only about ten in 1966.
(Peter and Greg freed U Wall, with variations on two pitches. Then Peter returned and freed the original line - two pitches out of fifteen - and wants to call it the Shadow? Am I the only one who finds that confusing?)
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Anders, I'm no expert on route history, but what I understand the original line(or original free line)deeks out left from the main corner right before what P.C. named the shadow. If you take a close look at the picture I posted on Seasoned in the Sun(thanks for the sweet line BTW) there is a wooden belay seat out left of the main dihedral, under 'the wide flake', being the way that most free climb it, from what I gather.
@SAC, what is the deal with reposting my pic of the flex capacitor, 'HMMMMMM??' whats your beef?
@Yetanotherdave, epic looking bivy!
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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Big Mike, The Cutting Edge is given V4, although I heard a hold recently broke making it a bit harder. I didn't hop on it this year, so I can't verify that.
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Great thread! Loving it!!
KC.... oh, nevermind.
A.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Cutting Edge was V4 but, is now V5/6 with the broken hold along the traverse. It looks like Big Mikes pic was taken pre-broken hold.
@thekidcormier Ya looks like that is what Kevin printed in his "guidebook".
Does anyone else think McLane's guidebooks are getting worse and worse? His pictures with line drawings of routes are horrible IMO.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2011 - 04:20am PT
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NigelSSI and Relic. Thanks for the info! Pic was taken circa 2009. I have very little beta about bouldering. I really should do more.
Relic-
Does anyone else think McLane's guidebooks are getting worse and worse? His pictures with line drawings of routes are horrible IMO.
Ya. His new Western Select has good pictures but suffers from a lack of descriptions for the climbs. I understand it is a select and he is trying to pack alot of climbs in, but his earlier books usually had very good descriptions.
I think I might know who you are.. does this climb look familiar?
Marc Leclerc on a 11+ 12 slab route by a renowned local slab developer. :)
Anders! I have been hoping you would see my humble thread.. How is your history project coming along? I have video cameras and the experience to operate them, plus some time coming up this winter. PM me and maybe we can figure something out.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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No Mike, that slab doesn't ring a bell. Ask Henkel, he might know somethin ;)
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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How did you like Astro Ledge? That thing scared the crap outta me the first time going across. I remember this old, weathered fixed rope that was rigged up at one of the more exposed sections of the crumbly ledge. The wall kinda buldged out there, threatening to turf you off hundreds of feet to the base of the North Walls. Looking at this crap rope that dangled over the void, I was wondering, "is this thing supposed to save me?"
I'm glad the North Walls are having new routes put up on it. So many sick lines on it, and lots of potential for more.
I'd love to see some old pictures of Atkinson, Hart, Beckham, etc. up there in the eighties.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Astro LEdge rules! I heard work of someone developing a 5.9 route all the way up the north walls, called air guitar or something like that. has any one got info on it?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Thanks Tami, ya I've seen Perry post quite a lot. He has an amazing thread on the second free ascent of University Wall on taco somewhere.
We were heading to the North Walls today but got blocked at the start of the forest service road. There was a police barricade up, and a cop yelling at us to "get the hell out of here". Found out later someone got murdered and they dumped the body on the forest service road that heads past the North Walls, Squaw, and all that stuff. Spooky.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Ya I know Tami. It was the big story on the 6 o'clock news on TV. But I was scampering around the Grand Wall boulders and missed it. Should be on at 11.
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bmacd
Social climber
100% Canadian
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Pre-North Walls exploits :: Dean Hart
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bmacd
Social climber
100% Canadian
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Before North Walls :: Randy Atkinson
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bmacd
Social climber
100% Canadian
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sadly in the 80's things were very disfunctional ... fashion wise, I dont like posting my North Walls pictures from the 80's
Running it out, off of the belay,
working the FA ...
Edit:
Route = Vision Quest, near "Public Image"
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Haha sweet, is that the enduro corner? It's hard to tell but it looks like it. Prettiest corner in Squamish.
Edit. Visionquest thanks. Looks so clean. Any shots of them groveling up Public Image?
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bmacd
Social climber
100% Canadian
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I didnt take a camera on Public image, and bummed to have not been in on the eventual FA of it as well after helping to prep the route.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Killer thread fur a bunch of Hosers. There are some really good photos too, except those blurry ones from Bmacd. For cryin' out loud...
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Awesome pics BMACD, Keep em comming!
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bmacd
Social climber
100% Canadian
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I bet Sonnie is likely a choir boy relative to what used to go down while getting things done in the North Walls. Great article in Aplinist on Squamish, but the wide angle picture used for Public Image was absolutely terrible
I dropped my cell phone and smashed it badly because I was laughing so hard for this photo with Tami !
Edit:
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Chortling on the brink of madness, young Tami sniffs and searches for her lost life jacket. "It must have fallen behind the outboard motor!" squeals Tami, as she breakdances on the edge of the boat to get a closer look.
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MH2
climber
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Many thanks to Big Mike for bringing us pictures and stories of Squamish.
There is an outside chance that Luke's picture of a climber on Eurasian Eyes could be Alex H. He was due for a photo shoot on it this Aug 28th and was asking climbers starting Bullethead East how to get there.
Here is Simon I. scraping up the left finish to Bullethead East.
And here is a climber (I don't know who) on Genius Loci.
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Hey Big Mike. Great thread, enjoying the old and new photos of the home crag on this damp day.
Here's one from my files, any guesses on the route?
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MH2
climber
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Supervalue start. Good camera angle.
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Ya, that was too easy.
A couple more random shots
[photoid=219947]
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Danger Dan on Caboose
Caboose was my nemesis. Never could do it clean. I could lead Clean Crack (a few feet to the left) with no problem, but Caboose, a full number grade easier was never anything more than a hangdog flailfest.
I remember running into gf, Jim Brennan, and someone else in the parking lot late one afternoon, and going over to the Lower Malemute to hang out and do some climbing (and burn some pipeloads if I remember correctly). One of them, I think it was Jim, had Caboose so dialed he used it as a stage for party tricks. Heel hooking the arete for a few moves is the one I remember. While I struggled like a old cow just to get up it on TR.
Oh well.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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pipeloads? must have been someone else!
Well, not you and I, of course, because we're far too straight for that. And not Jim, maybe it was the other fellow that was with us.
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Hey Tami. MH2 guessed that one, its called Supervalue, and it is super value.. close to the lower parking lot at the Bluffs. You gotta run it out off the deck to avoid some later rope drag, pic's tilted a bit making it look a little extra spooky
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Russ S.
climber
Seattle, WA
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its called Supervalue, and it is super value.. close to the lower parking lot at the Bluffs. You gotta run it out off the deck to avoid some later rope drag,
Or... climb with two single lead lines. Tie one off at the last pro before you move onto the slab and continue with only one. At least that's the way we use to do it to avoid the rope drag...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2011 - 11:48pm PT
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MH2- Many thanks to everyone for paticipating!
Nice Photos! I got up Bullethead East twice this summer, but only got up the final pitch once. That pitch looked fun! We did the center handcrack which was stellar! Can't wait to go back and try the other pitches!
Saugy- Thanks. Nice belay photo of Supervalue! Ya run out. I will probably lead that one with my half ropes when i get around to it. Run-outs so close to the ground make me nervous All them are nice! I'll have to remember that trick for Caboose.. I mean.... Nevermind :)
Ghost- Did you ever get the no hands rest demonstrated by Danger Dan? Luke said he found it rather difficult also.
Tami- Maybe they were especially potent "Pipeloads"
Kyle on Center Street
Josh on Foetus Face 11c Skaha
Nina on Baby Lizard
Happy Birthday Nina!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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There are four (or more) no hands rests on Caboose. And four or more different ways of doing it, including someone I once saw do it without touching the crack. On toprope, mind.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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I keep reading about old classic routes that were named one thing by the FA party, and then somehow the name totally changes by the time they get widely known from being in the guidebook.
Offhand I can think of:
Ander's Bum - Seasoned on the Sun
Pipeloads - Pipeline
Mad Englishman and Dog - Astronomy
Now I'm forgetting the rest... What are the others? Anyways, I kinda like the original names. How did these change exactly?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Hehe, did you do it with Peter? I mean, HAHAHA, did you belay him on that heinously hard, finger lock campus board?
So I guess Anders didn't name it after his own butt. Ok, that makes sense.
I forgot that Pipeline was aided way back by Leif Patterson et. all. I like Greg Cameron's Pipeloads name better, an allusion to one of Daryl's and Perry's favorite hobbies?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Pipeline was always called Pipeline.
Artificial Land [great name] somehow became Sentry Box [how boring is that???].
H.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Eternal perdition to route-renamers! May the fleas of a thousand camels infest their nether regions!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2011 - 05:30pm PT
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Hamie- You are right artificial land is way better.
Tami- What's the deal?
Why does the ffa get to rename the route? Or is it just the "free" name?
If you aid it then you use the fa name?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2011 - 10:45pm PT
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Tami - "there was no reason to it other then being naughty. Mischief." I can identify with that... I'm sure my mother would tell you i was not a perfect child, much less teenager :) I guess ultimately the responsibilty lies with KM for choosing to print the new names.
Interesting that KM would choose to keep the name Astronomy and put MDE in Quotes, but then change Artificial Land to Sentry Box and drop the reference entirely for AL.
I guess it's like they say "History is written by the victor", or in this case whomever chooses to record it.
NWO - nice Corn Flakes photo. Who's the soloist?
Edit- Retract my statement about KM being responsible for AL name change.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The inadvertent name change from Artificial Land to Sentry Box occurred in the 1960s. The latter name was used in the 1967 guide, and became the established usage. The 1980 guide used Sentry Box, but noted the discrepancy.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2011 - 07:17pm PT
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Tami- I geuss we strive to be different from our parents eh?
I visited Kyle last night and got some photos from him. Here is one of me on the Buttress 10c pitch this spring. I lead it but whipped before the piton. The last 10 feet was a stuggle. I was definetly not in good climbing shape after the winter. I had another shot at it later in the summer on tr and fell at the crux. Need to train this winter! Swear that pitch is harder than 10c!
Photo Nina Hagen
I was supposed to go to Skaha this weekend but both my girlfriend and I got sick. Weather kinda sucked anyways.. So here's a little eye candy till next weekend hopefully.
Bones sets up the anchor on The Dream, Skaha Bluffs
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 11, 2011 - 10:49pm PT
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nice pics mike, woah that skaha route looks stellar, gotta make it out there sometime...
BTW: it feels 10c to me... might be a different story if that FP wasnt there...
I dont might clipping fixed pins when there is no gear, but whats with all the pins on the 2nd last pitch of angles crest, I might have to go yank em...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2011 - 11:37pm PT
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There might be alot of pissed off people if you did that. It might lead to bolts replacing them, which would be a crying shame imo.
Are those pins from the fa? Anyone know?
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 12, 2011 - 12:03am PT
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Those pissed off peolple would then have to suck it up because the route takes killer gear, even if you only have a rack of singles.
In my opinion they are convenience pins and are completely unnecessary.
Anybody care to comment on the pitons in questions.
-Luke
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 12, 2011 - 01:09am PT
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Tami do you mind if I start an `ask tami` thread. It seems as tho everyone, myself included, is always wondering about routes you and peter did and what not and they`re spread out all over this cyber-cesspool we call supertaco. I think questions directed at you need a little place to call home.
-Luke
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 12, 2011 - 01:52am PT
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Those pins ain't much to get worked up over. They've been there for years. I don't think they make our lives that much better or worse existing were they are.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Oct 12, 2011 - 01:53am PT
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No fixed pins on the second ascent of the Upper Angel's Crest in 1962, 49 years ago! No such thing as 'fixed pins' then, just booty.
This reminds me of the small cliff near the old climbers' camp at Jenny Lake in the Tetons, mid 60s. The local climbing school/guides used it for teaching, and had several places for fixed pins. We would wander over every week or so, and help ourselves. They must have been important, cos they kept replacing them!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2011 - 02:16am PT
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Hamish- Hahahahahaha.. Booty land
A good thing I grabbed these the other night.
Kyle on the pitch in question
Photo: Luke Cormier
Here's some more Skaha crack for you Luke
Gangbang 10c, Skaha
Another one of Angel's
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new world order-
climber
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Oct 12, 2011 - 11:42am PT
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More Angel's!
The acrophobe's traverse pitch at 5.7 is fave to not rope up for. The freedom way up high, unencumbered by a rope, can be quite exhilarating.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2011 - 12:27pm PT
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NWO that reminds me of the time me and Kyle soloed the next pitch after Acrophobes. We did it to pass a slower party after the rap. The Upper Acrophobe tower is so exposed there it gave us quite the thrill.
I think the best way to deal with that pitch and the next would be simul both together and avoid some of the rope drag. My first time up there I could barely get to the belay the drag was so bad. Bringing my partner up was a mission!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 12, 2011 - 12:44pm PT
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Pooh clouds have attacked Squamish. It is time to evacuate south.
Look, no pooh clouds. A better place to be.
I'm losing my mind as to why I am not here right now.
In conclusion, must drive south ASAP before Squamishites drown in pooh clouds.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2011 - 04:02pm PT
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Relic lets go to skaha this weekend!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 12, 2011 - 04:34pm PT
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Newsflash... pooh clouds are floating away for this weekend!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2011 - 06:13pm PT
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Ya but I still think I wanna go to the desert this weekend....
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Bin Dur
Sport climber
BC
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Oct 12, 2011 - 09:14pm PT
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Tami
I've just become aware that you are influencing my children.
I will get you for this.
Dean
"Eat a hamburger!"
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 12, 2011 - 10:52pm PT
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Those pins ain't much to get worked up over.
But my aid rack could use a few pitons...
Looks like we got some killer weather comming! Egg yokes for friday saturday!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 13, 2011 - 12:54am PT
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Deano...
You still in 'Murricaaaah?
No, he can't be down here. They have pretty strict immigration laws, and with all that photographic evidence that he paraded up and down rock faces wearing the dorkiest lycra tights imaginable, there's no way they'd have let him in.
I only ever wore solid black lycra tights and I had to lie even about that to get in.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Oct 13, 2011 - 02:40pm PT
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Hey Tami
I am amazed that you remember my letter. You may be equally surprised to hear that I kept your reply, which shows two of your charachters, the neanderthal Mr. Ice and the super-honed Mr. Rock. It's framed, and shares space with my climbing books. My very own TK original. Special, very special. All your books were/are great. Hoping that this note still "makes your day"!
I also hope you don't mind me sharing the letter with the great unwashed of the taco. They know who they are, ha ha!
Cheers, H.
PS. Nice writing.
EDIT Somehow the original uncropped, untweeked version of the pic was selected. Very odd. A little hard to read. Sorry about that..... H.
RE-EDIT. There is a better copy below.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Oct 13, 2011 - 02:54pm PT
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Here's a better version. Sorry about that.
H.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Oct 13, 2011 - 09:13pm PT
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Jim
Score!! That would also be a great t-shirt design for Bloody Fingers at The City. Could have said "Oh God--My nails!" too.
GF
No recollection of that, but it appears that I was hosed by hosers.
H.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2011 - 10:22pm PT
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Greetings from Skahahaha! I will be climbing for a change for the next couple days.
Unfortunatly i cant see tami's awesome letters because i am limited by my phone.
No worries though i will surely get caught up when i get home. I might even have some new photos and maybe even a trip report.
Mike
Edit Anders thanks for the link. I didnt actually get to see the pics but Tami tells it excellently!
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 15, 2011 - 01:37am PT
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Tami, do you have any recolection of the FA of cobra crack? was there much hooking involved? I've seen in movies it looks slabby @ the bottom.. From what thinkin of giving it a go tomorrow, but I only have 1 hook... but i got lots of nuts!
-Luke
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 15, 2011 - 01:43am PT
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I've seen in movies it looks slabby @ the bottom..
Ha ha. Go up and get on that "slab" then report back to us what you think.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 15, 2011 - 01:53am PT
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= Nail the crap out of the sucker.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 15, 2011 - 01:55am PT
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I'm an idiot.. on closer inspection it looks like a rather continous crack from the bottom! looks like the thing will eat up nuts!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 15, 2011 - 02:00am PT
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I watched Nico Favresse work Cobra one day. He could do all the moves, but couldn't link them. I think he came back later -- after Sonny got it -- and managed the whole thing.
And the slab at the bottom ain't no slab.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 15, 2011 - 02:04am PT
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For some reason I had dream catchers slab start in my head... woopsy daisy
... why's it go at C2 then looks like all bomber placements.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 15, 2011 - 02:13am PT
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Well, nail the crap out of that one, too. We used to all the time. Though I think someone did it clean, that was via the original Rurp Riot start, to the right - someone removed the bolts linking across to the main crack.
If you don't nail them, how can anyone ever free them?
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 15, 2011 - 02:34am PT
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Does any one know what the C grade of king of the rock is? The hook placement @ the top was rather exciting!Just getting into aiding & I cant find anyone who wants to aid climb with me so I had to bribe big mike with some weed to lend me his grigri...
EDIT: anders sounds like you got an itchy hammer hand
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2011 - 04:05am PT
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That's not true i would never do that? Who gave you my gri gri? I want it back!
On the subject of aid climbing I'm buying etriers and jumars when i get back.
I got my rain gear and am ready to play in the rain!
Have fun on the first pitch of uwall!
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bmacd
Mountain climber
100% Canadian
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Oct 15, 2011 - 04:18am PT
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there are a few stories I recall about squamish ...
But Captain Granitic has sworn me to secrecy ....
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 15, 2011 - 10:49am PT
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Mike you should buy a ledge and right the hst off thru hurtin productions ;)
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 15, 2011 - 11:33am PT
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Maybe some 1970s lsd induced flashbacks will provoke a looser tongue :)
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MH2
climber
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Oct 15, 2011 - 11:59am PT
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That guidebook has a bit to say, Bruce.
Sickles is a term I haven't seen used a lot. Follow the sickles.
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c-plus
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC, Canada
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Oct 15, 2011 - 06:54pm PT
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The note of "(horrendous accident) next to Uncle Bens sounds like the start of an interesting story...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 15, 2011 - 07:03pm PT
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So,uh, where in the digestive process does barf turn into poo?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Oct 15, 2011 - 09:44pm PT
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I had hoped to see some more stories about fixed pins, but none so far. They were probably few and far between, and now long snagged as souvenirs. The thread title says 'Squamish Photos and Stories', which by my interpretation would limit the photos to Squamish, but not the stories. So here's one from further afield. At the time we thought it was hilarious, and we laughed all day. I still smile at the thought of it, but some readers will go "tsk, tsk", I can hear them already.
Chamonix. July 1961. Aiguille Mummery 12,136', SW Face. V Superior [5+]. 14 or so pitches. Two teenagers.
This was a fairly sustained rockclimb, and our guidebook, Mont Blanc Select went into some detail. It indicated the number of fixed pins on each pitch, and even described some, such as "a U-section piton" [angle]. We thought it would be funny if we removed this U-section, and replaced it on the next pitch, thereby spreading doubt and confusion. Which we did. We then did our best to mix up the number of fixed pins on all of the remaining pitches, by adding or removing pins as required. Funnneee! The two parties below us both bailed by noon. Coincidence of course. On the last pitch I found a cord etrier, with 4 metal rungs, and an aluminum Simond biner. Score! Someone had obviously been desperate, so we left that pin alone, but took the gear.
To get down, we still had to traverse the Aiguille Ravanel, 12,123' and then do a bunch of raps. Part way down the rope jammed. Since it was getting late, we had to cut it. My beautiful new red rope! Payback of course!!
Big grins, as Tami would say.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 15, 2011 - 10:57pm PT
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That's hilarious. Hamish, you are evil.
Here are a few (very lo-res) shots of the first ascent of p2 of Borderline. We finally finished cleaning that pitch at about 2 o'clock one summer afternoon and when we got together at the belay we drew straws (twigs, actually) to see who would get the first shot at leading it. I won, and started to rack up, but Eric and Susan just looked at me like I was an idiot.
"You're going to lead it now?"
"Well, I won the draw, didn't I?"
"Uh, yeah, but it's in full sun now. You'll slide all over it."
"Nah, no worries, I can do it."
Should have listened to them, cuz the rock was about 100 degrees and of course my shoe rubber melted on the crux and I greased off. They gave me another shot, but the result was the same, and I handed it off to Eric who had drawn the next-shortest twig. He wisely said something like "Right. Down we go then, and I'll give it a shot in the morning."
Which he did. Got it clean on his first try. (Of course we'd all TRed it a bunch, but that was his first shot at leading it.)
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 16, 2011 - 02:09am PT
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Hamie? fraser? If so, would you like to tell us the tale of your bold solo mission up the Uwall before you were old enough to apply for your drivers license...
p.s. you sound like a trouble maker, my mom warned me about people like you... haha, jokes
I had been in awe of the line for quite some time now, and as I just bought my first etrier yesterday I figured today was a great day to start working towards a 'Higher education'. So with the grigri I rented from big mike (note I say rented, as the giant cheapo wouldnt straight up lend it :P) I set out to my first day of university! I was the only student to show up today, and even tho I only went up the first pitch I learned alot. I need to get some jumars now so I can keep going up!!
Nice pics and story ghosts! this thread is bumpin'! What year was that, and was that Eric W.??
I made it out to the cirque of the uncrackables and I didnt find any slab just as you promised... is it considered an aid onsite seeing as none of my gear blew out...?
Thanks for the reply Tami, do you know it is know the hardest traditionally protected climb in canada and posibly N.A.
BmacD or jim b. care to elaborate on the horrendous accident noted in your guide book?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 16, 2011 - 02:11am PT
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Hamie = Hamish Mutch. Read up on University Wall.
Hamish Fraser may sometimes lurk here, but hasn't posted.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 16, 2011 - 02:32am PT
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Oops, I seem to have confused the two (excuse me if there is more) Great Hamishs of squamish. My bad
How long did the first ascent take you guys? Did all four of you bivi up there or fix lines? Did you guys have jumars back then? You guys are legends!!
.. and does anyone know approximately what year hamish f. aid solosd it?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2011 - 11:17am PT
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Hamish- amazing story. I determined before thanks to bmacs thread that this is about squamish climbers and their antics, not necessarily where they took place.
Interesting that you guys seemed to want to leave your mark on the route, not unlike some younger climbers who liked to come up with new names!
Tami- Cobra fa eh? Wow. Too bad PC didn't finish that then boyd couldn't have used it (GWN) on his unending Slab 13.
Ghost- Awesome. Great photos, great story. Did you come in from the top to take those pics?
Thanks to you all for taking the time to pass on your tales to the younger generation, so that we have a better appreciation of following in your footsteps.
Luke- maybe if some of the other things I'd loaned you had come back in better condition I would have been less hesitant. :)
I'm glad you got it done yesterday, and that someone finally used that thing to solo something.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 16, 2011 - 11:46am PT
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Ghost- Awesome. Great photos, great story. Did you come in from the top to take those pics?
Yeah, I hiked to the summit in the dark, then down-soloed High Plains Drifter and Angels Crest to about the midpoint, then traversed across the blank face (free solo of course) to where Eric was about to start the struggle.
Not.
We still had a rope fixed to the top of the second pitch, so I just jugged up and down that while he did his thing and Susan belayed.
Some time later, while we were cleaning the pitches above, gf and Jim Brennan came up and climbed the first two. I remember watching Greg cruise through the hard stuff (11c was right at the limit of what any of us three could climb back then, but no big deal for him), and then falling just past where Eric is in the last picture. If he'd been a less gifted climber (like us) he'd have got that move easily, cuz you can kind of step down onto a good hold, and go a bit more to the right, but being the way-hone that he was, he was totally focused on "up".
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new world order-
climber
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Oct 16, 2011 - 01:57pm PT
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Who created this and how did they get it up there?
Via the gully, then Boomstick, perhaps? But what were the mechanics of it all?!
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new world order-
climber
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Oct 16, 2011 - 02:07pm PT
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Squampton during a forest fire season, some years ago.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 16, 2011 - 04:18pm PT
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@ newworldorder: I'm not sure who carved it, but I'm pretty sure matt madaloni(spelling) and some one else hiked it up the backside trail and then rappelled it into place and free solod out! pretty freakin righteous.
you can look it up on the archives of his blog http://climblife.blogspot.com
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 16, 2011 - 04:45pm PT
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The first clean ascent of U Wall was probably by Len Soet and Phil Kubik, in 1977 or so. Need to check on details.
Jim's "rescue" from the top of Uncle Ben's was one of the first major rescues at the Chief, in 1983. (Steve and Hugh were lowered a rope to finish the third ascent of the Black Dyke, in 1970, when bad weather moved in, but that isn't quite the same thing.) Anyway, it was Monday of the BC day long weekend, and someone heard Jim and Bruce calling from the wall. So we told the RCMP, and they called out a rescue. Most of us hiked to and across Bellygood and Dance Platform, and someone organized a pulley system to get the guys to the ledge, and across to a flat area above the Bulletheads, where Jim was picked up.
Earlier rescue training, about 1967:
Some well known climbers in that photo.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 16, 2011 - 06:50pm PT
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Anders, what do you mean clean ascent, as in no hammers??
Also I once seen you use the word Fustercluck in a squamishclimbing.com thread.. did you coin that term or had you previously heard it used?
-Luke
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Oct 16, 2011 - 07:25pm PT
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Big Jim S in the middle, and Tony Cousins far right are my guesses.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 16, 2011 - 07:28pm PT
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Tony Cousins third from left. Gordie Smaill in middle, with helmet on. Big Jim with stubby. Colin and Mab Oloman also in photo.
I'm reasonably sure that Len and Phil used only fixed pitons on their climb, but they're sensible fellows, and I wouldn't be surprised if they had a hammer and pins in their bag, just in case. It's still a clean ascent, IMHO - no pins placed. The real issue, after all, is damage to the rock. Having but not using a hammer and pins is a mere stylistic matter.
When you ask about the origin of the well-known euphemism fustercluck, I wonder if there's a troll around.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 16, 2011 - 10:12pm PT
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Anders I'm very familiar with the term clusterf*#k but fustercluck was a term I'd never heard of and thank you for introducing it too me. Also you might be the man to ask about the origin on cam hooks, do you know how long they've been around? They freaking kick ASS!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 16, 2011 - 10:59pm PT
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I'm fairly sure that Moses used cam hooks to acquire his commandments. Graven on stone, you understand. Not that anyone paid much attention, then or later.
It took a while for them to catch on Yosemite - conservative bunch there.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 16, 2011 - 11:56pm PT
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Also you might be the man to ask about the origin on cam hooks, do you know how long they've been around?
When I'm sober tomorrow I'll try to remember to post the story about Al Steck and the cam hook failure on... sh#t... can't remember... I think it was University Wall.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 17, 2011 - 12:43am PT
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Ghost-thanks for the beta on borderline-something about a bull and a red flag?
It was really funny. You could climb about nine number grades harder than any of us, and had no trouble with the business of that second pitch -- which was right at the limit of what any of us could climb. And then you fell right where it drops from 11c to about 5.4. Well, okay, it would be 5.4 if you stepped down and right. But if you try to go up from that point, it's probably hard 5.19 or something.
And if I remember, when JB followed you up the thing he didn't enjoy it at all. In fact I think there was cussing. And weighting of the rope.
The whole Borderline experience was interesting. When we scoped it out, and started working the first pitch, we thought we'd found a 5.9/easy 5.10 climb that would soar up the left side of the Badge for pitch after pitch of moderate wonderfulness. When it became clear that the second pitch was going to be hard 11, Susan got pretty discouraged. Not because the route wouldn't be a good one, but because she thought no one would ever climb it.
My view at that time (late 1990s) was that 5.11 would soon be the new 5.9 -- a grade that most competent climbers were comfortable with. Maybe challenged a bit, but still comfortable. There was some argument about this, mostly to do with the fact that I was clearly insane. But history has proven me right, and Borderline has become a deservedly popular climb.
There was a lot of other interesting sh#t associated with that climb. Gear thievery. Almost-slanderous bullshit from a guidebook writer. Relationship dissolution. Squamish climbing at its finest.
Maybe if I get up to Squamish next year you can tow me up it. For old time's sake.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Oct 17, 2011 - 01:41am PT
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MH. $20- says that is Tony far right. Note goofy knickers. $100- says that is not Tony third from left. Are you on?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 17, 2011 - 01:45am PT
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I only recognize a few of the people in the photo, and it's before my time. But somewhere I have some messages from people in the photo as to who's there. For $20 I'll fish them out.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 17, 2011 - 02:06am PT
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What was the issue with Borderline and that certain special someone we all know? It is a very good route.
Thanks for providing us an easy, fast, non-dirty, non-grovel access to the Badge. Philistine Groove was so gross. No offence Perry ;)
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Oct 17, 2011 - 11:15pm PT
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Great share Fish!!
Thanks!
Surely that one pic of splitter is the left side of the killer pillar...
Que no?
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 17, 2011 - 11:50pm PT
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Nice work fish boy! I gave ya a good morning holler around 9am saturday. Way to get after it!
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MH2
climber
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Oct 18, 2011 - 12:14am PT
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A few DAYS on Ten Years After? Which leisure class at either end of the spectrum do you inhabit?
Aesthetic pics but kinda random.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 18, 2011 - 12:37am PT
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Fish Boy, are you the same person who soloed much of Ten Years After during the summer of 2010, up to about the top of the Sword? The one I sent a photo to? Either way, did you go all the way to Dance Platform?
Three days for soloing TYA in mid-October seems reasonable to me.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Oct 18, 2011 - 02:27am PT
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MH it seems that you are on for $20-. It's like taking a case of beer from a baby. Should I feel guilty?
LOL [licking of lips]
H.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Oct 18, 2011 - 02:36am PT
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SAC: Yeah top of the left side...maybe Grinning Weasel?
Tami, you can just click the link and look at the photos, you don't need to be my friend!
Jim, yup, that's me.
Kid, cheers for the holler!
MH2, 2nd time aid soloing, first wall at Squish and I have no job so no need to hurry. Carting ledges and bags off Bellygood takes more than a few minutes. Since moving here a couple of months ago I've enjoyed 25 pitch days and 2 pitch days....
Nope MH, not me...yes, all the way....
While you're all here, anyone know much about Negro Lesbian? Don't want a beta run down, just haven't heard much about it...
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kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
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Oct 18, 2011 - 02:49am PT
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hey relic
I believe kevin Mclane did Philistine groove not pb (Chief)
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Oct 18, 2011 - 02:53am PT
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Thanks gf. Three fixed pieces on the first expanding pitch, one on the second one. The rusty stuff on that route is a bit nasty, in particular those tiny rivets at the start of 6 I think....
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Oct 18, 2011 - 02:55am PT
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Oh, being an Australian, I know all about carrots...!
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bmacd
Mountain climber
100% Canadian
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Oct 18, 2011 - 12:47pm PT
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Looks like Mike B. and I cut over to Grand for the 5th belay, which likely now doesn't exist on account of I am sure the entire bolt ladder being replaced on that section of grandwall. So that explains the lack of fixed belay at the end of the 5th on 10yrs after during your ascent Fish Boy .... sketchy ...
Well done dude !!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 18, 2011 - 11:31pm PT
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Bumpin
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MH2
climber
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Oct 19, 2011 - 12:05am PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2011 - 11:40am PT
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Wow. Nice work everyone!
I've too been busy working on my Skaha tr to post much but nice work FB!
For anyone interested luke is on c wall this morning. He fixed the first two pitches last night and bivied on the first pitch ledge.
Someone go take a photo of him for us!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Oct 19, 2011 - 12:34pm PT
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MH2
Why are there two bolts beside the [very determined] climber's knee, in the first pic? Two separate routes?
H.
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MH2
climber
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Oct 19, 2011 - 10:07pm PT
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Yes, Hamish, the bolts are on different routes. We are looking at Richard Suddaby on Pleasant Pheasant (from the far left end of Pet Wall using a zoom lens). The unclipped bolt is on Crosstrainer.
The second photo is Jim Sandford at the top of No Name Road, again with zoom but now looking the other way from the vicinity of Flingus Cling.
The third photo I think is Hamish Frasier, taken as he arrived under the Squamish Buttress 10c pitch.
The fourth photo I don't know the guy's name but I used to see him at the Edge climbing gym in North Van. He was trying to keep up with Hamish.
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MH2
climber
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Oct 19, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
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Another Squamish photo:
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 20, 2011 - 01:39am PT
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Spruce Lake area, eh?
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Oct 20, 2011 - 01:46am PT
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Mike Beaubien, John Simpson and I freed the Philistine Groove as the approach to The Daily Planet.
Whether Kevin nailed it before us or not is unknown to me.
Free or aid, it's an aptly named black hole of a pitch that sucks stars off nearby classic routes.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 20, 2011 - 09:54am PT
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..........black hole of a pitch that sucks stars off nearby classic routes
I went up and down that thing far too many times when we were cleaning the first two pitches of Borderline. At that time it had two ancient ropes fixed on it. Knotted together every three meters or so. Soon joined by our static.
I never tried to free it, just jugged up on my way to work, but I often wondered what it would be like as a climb. What makes it so horrible?
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MH2
climber
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Oct 20, 2011 - 01:29pm PT
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what did I win?
Maybe the Savary Island salad dressing that Ghost hasn't picked up yet.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 20, 2011 - 07:08pm PT
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Is that last one Message to the Stars or something?
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MH2
climber
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Oct 21, 2011 - 12:15am PT
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It's the finish to Split Decision. The other Split Decision. Near in location to Message from the Stars but not as hard.
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kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
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Oct 23, 2011 - 10:42pm PT
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Oops, my bad.
PB did free the Phillistine groove, km aided it. my memory is fading with age.
it certainly is inferior to the fantastic routes above.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 27, 2011 - 01:17pm PT
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Is Nina any relation of Barry, in Prince George?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 27, 2011 - 07:06pm PT
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Mmm Squamish
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MH2
climber
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Oct 27, 2011 - 07:39pm PT
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Some of the cleanest brightest funnest rock Squamish has.
(For a couple pitches)
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Oct 28, 2011 - 12:24am PT
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Here's something new we pieced together this summer. FA mid Sept with two good friends. It will be buffed to a shine by next spring for your enjoyment.
That patch of bare dirt against the wall 1000' below is the trampled out area at the base of Java Jive.
Grand Finale 5.11a, A0, 5p
FA Sept 13, 2011
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 28, 2011 - 12:38am PT
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Does the climb end just underneath the Penthouse?
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Oct 28, 2011 - 12:46am PT
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No, it ends over to the right. About 60' left of the top of the Upper Black Dyke.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 28, 2011 - 02:46am PT
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This pitch had been done up to about here years ago by Peder O and Jim B. They stepped left and put in an anchor. We went right and up for 50' more.
What was the old Peder and Jim route?
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Oct 28, 2011 - 02:50am PT
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Peder said they never gave it a name or reported it. It was pretty forgettable, and just fizzled out in the middle of nowhere. It was never recorded in any of the guidebooks.
K
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2011 - 03:11am PT
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Anders- Not quite.. This is Nina
Joe's Crack
Climber: Nina Photo: Aislinn Merkel
Oplopanax- Nice Photo! I'm surprised Scrubber didn't out it... Ultimate Everything.. Such a fun climb! Is there a party on Teddy Bears Picnic in the background??
Kris- Nice work! Another Wild route on my tick list! Thanks for the preview!
Some more of Kyle's photos
Top of Angel's Crest
Climber: Kyle Photo: Luke Cormier
Luke leading the crux of Birds of Prey
Photo: Kyle
Kyle stopped while simuling to take this picture! :)
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Oct 28, 2011 - 03:22am PT
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Hmmm, where did that big flake and the tree go on the last picture...? I could've sworn it was there last year... :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2011 - 11:45am PT
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I dunno. Think i saw video of some punk with glasses lever it off there with a 2x4. ;) when i went up there i could not believe the size of it!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 28, 2011 - 02:54pm PT
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I remember seeing the anchor for that pitch of Peder's and wondering about it. Luc M gave me the details; I always wondered why it never made it into the guides.
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MH2
climber
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Oct 28, 2011 - 04:02pm PT
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(another) Luke
"Luke, I am your father."
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2011 - 06:09pm PT
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Skywalker! Mr. Frimer's ultra popular moderate multi! A very nice continuation of a old unused aid climb.
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Oct 28, 2011 - 10:34pm PT
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Here's the video of the Birds of Prey trundle
http://youtu.be/K0Tj2dWiXPk
I could see the scar that it left on the rock all summer from the highway!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2011 - 02:01am PT
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Ok what is with the music in that video! That thing was huge.. That scar was almost as tall as me!
Took some photos of Kyle at the Smoke Bluffs the other day,
Climb and Punishment 10d
Tami- I noticed that you and Peter FA'd this one with Robin Barley. Did you guys hang out with him alot bitd?
I noticed RB calls The Ugly American, Ugly Anders on his topo.. I geuss he is just continuing the tradition of Anders Bum? :)
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dugillian
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Oct 29, 2011 - 02:49am PT
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Skywalker is by no means anything special. It has one pitch that is pseudo-interesting and the rest are a waste of time. The real only worth of that "climb" is that it keeps people off of the truly worthy and interesting climbs.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2011 - 03:46am PT
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It's a very good starting point for fledgling trad climbers to do their first multi. It takes pressure of Diedre and the rest of the apron, has some very nice views and some fun moves, and is a great place to take your girlfriend. :)
Yeah it's short and sometimes wet at the bottom.. But really it was designed with NOOB trad leaders in mind.. It's popularity says it all.
Like you said keep em there till they figure things out.. Kalhanie and all the other cracks there as well as Local Boys are the cleanest they have ever been. Lots of other cool routes around there might see more traffic now too.
For those who don't follow squamishclimbing.com Fish Boy posted up a tr of his Ten Years After solo to go with his pretty photos here: http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_climbing_bb/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3683&p=17696&sid=1c8b7fda972e6723f2cdc767774755a7#p17696
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 29, 2011 - 12:11pm PT
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dugillian; it seems as tho you have some what of a personal vendetta with the skywalker route... whats your beef?!? it is what it is.
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MH2
climber
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Oct 29, 2011 - 12:30pm PT
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Not speaking for anyone else, but I was a little bothered by aspects of Skywalker. In years past I had done several of the routes that get to the top of that formation. It was cool up there: the moss, the trees, the salal, everything seemed to fit with everything else. Now, at the top of Skywalker you find a path and other landscaping and a trail of orange flagging. The disturbance is temporary and in a year or two everything may look good again to us sensitive types, and in the meantime the descent is safer for those who need help getting down.
It's an old story. To get something, a new safe moderate route, you have to give up something else, the feeling that you have got away from the human influence.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 29, 2011 - 07:20pm PT
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I wonder if people would claim now that Gordie Smaill was a great visionary if he'd done Grim Reaper with like 100 bolts and comfortized belays and stuff back in 74.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 29, 2011 - 07:46pm PT
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As Neil and Gordie did Grim Reaper in 1969, and placed bolts at the few places they could, probably not. Those of us who tried and eventually did it a decade later couldn't have imagined adding bolts to it. The climb is now considerably cleaner than it was then, and I believe that its few bolts have been replaced by modern ones.
IIRC, The Crossing is close to Grim Reaper. Those who did The Crossing's first ascent made some effort to ensure that its bolts did not impinge on the Reaper, although one of the bolts is reachable from the second pitch of Snake, and alters it.
Like Andy, I have rather mixed feelings about routes at Squamish with what can be argued are convenience bolts. We don't have an unlimited amount of rock, particularly rock suitable for moderate climbs, and need to be careful about how we use it. Convenience bolts may allow more climbers to experience a given bit of rock, but may also cause the innocent, the ignorant, the insecure and the unprepared onto climbs, which as is evident from Diedre isn't always a good idea. Also, of course, it encourages people to think that all routes should have bolt belays - even if natural anchors are available, and it's not a usual rappel line.
Likewise I have concerns about where the right balance is in terms of vegetation removal and the like.
Somewhat related, there are several areas at Squamish where we might consider a "new bolt" and "new route" ban. Anywhere on the Apron to the right of Diedre, in most areas to the left of Diedre, and on the upper Apron, most new climbs would have little character, and would often detract from existing routes. Likewise several cliffs in the Little Smoke Bluffs. Very little of that rock hasn't already been climbed or explored, at least on toprope.
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MH2
climber
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Oct 29, 2011 - 08:40pm PT
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MH2, I bet you wouldn't have so sanguine an outlook if they built a gazebo above a certain traverse eh?
Why refer to the Errol Pardoe hut?
....
Oh, wait.
You trying to give me a heart attack?
Such a thing would require Direct Action.
Or it could be a sign to move to Bella Coola or some such.
I see that a Best Practices Guide for route development is posted on BC Parks, and there will be a meeting to discuss it on 5 November. It reads as even-handed and tolerant of route cleaning as long as no one is maimed or killed, and as long as no falcons are disturbed. But it also says that vegetation within a provincial park is protected under the Park Act. Hope that you don't run afoul of Vegetation Enforcement.
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bmacd
Mountain climber
100% Canadian
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Oct 29, 2011 - 09:02pm PT
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Now, at the top of Skywalker you find a path and other landscaping and a trail of orange flagging. The disturbance is temporary and in a year or two everything may look good again to us sensitive types,
I would like to add, that the level of trail marking in Squamish has gone beyond ridiculous. Of particular note is the well worn trail along the base of my favorite crag the Papoose. 2" fluorescent markers every 75 feet.
Bear in mind, immediately to the right is the large granite wall of the Papoose, immediately left is the highway. Directly infront of you is one of the most well worn, oldest trails in Squamish.
I took appropriate action and removed 50% of the markers, the next time I visit the crag I will remove all of them. This is a form of visual pollution, totally asinine whoever installed them.
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MH2
climber
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Oct 29, 2011 - 09:53pm PT
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Well, at least someone flagged the dangerous trees along the path to Pet Wall.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 29, 2011 - 11:39pm PT
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Hopefully they're not flagging the trees so that they know which ones to cut down.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2011 - 11:46pm PT
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That's the problem Jim. Climbing Gym's. They teach us how to climb, but nothing of the history, tradition or ethics of climbing.
You guys seemed to have more access to your elders bitd because it was a tighter community, so those values were passed on as they are here in your stories.
I was introduced to climbing by my girlfriend who had been into it for a couple of years. I learned a bit from her, but when she had a rock fall accident that ended up with her sipping her meals through a straw for six weeks it messed with her psyche a bit.
So suddenly I was the leader. Then we broke up and I started going to the gym where I met other gym climbers.
I have climbed with many more experienced partners in the years since but have never really had a mentor.
Today's climbers typically have no access to their elders, which leads to a lack of understanding as we don't really know why you guys did things the way you did.
Plus people are pussies.
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dugillian
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Oct 30, 2011 - 12:41am PT
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Vendetta?? Just calling a spade a spade. The thought of spending months to remove all forms of vegetation to create something marginally mediocre is just something I find offensive.....I'd call this form of route creation a "Vendetta" against nature.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 30, 2011 - 01:19am PT
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When they give you the decoder ring, and teach you the secret handshake, you know you're in the club. But, never join any club that will have you for a member.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 30, 2011 - 01:28am PT
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I think it's ok to be critical of massively popular new routes like Skywalker. I have mixed feelings about it as well. While I do appreciate all the work JF put into cleaning it up, I do think he was a bit over zealous with making it "user friendly" for the up and coming "5.8" climber. The bolted short slab on the last pitch has way too many bolts on it. I mean, you can walk up most of it with no hands... So much for the Squamish slab experience.
Overall, I do like Skywalker and think it is a worthy outing.
Speaking of slab, which I do have a morbid fascination for, does anyone have a story of the Grim Reaper, White Lightning, Dream on, Magic Carpet Ride, Dancing in the Light, etc... they care to share?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 30, 2011 - 02:06am PT
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Speaking of slab, which I do have a morbid fascination for, does anyone have a story of the Grim Reaper, White Lightning, Dream on, Magic Carpet Ride, Dancing in the Light, etc... they care to share?
Sure. Here's a story from Dancing in the Light. That is, it's not a story about DitL, but rather a story about something that happened while we were on DitL. I think I posted this on rec.climbing some time in the last century, but you reminded me of it, so here it is...
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Does the Guiness Book of Records have a category for "Stupidest thing ever done on a rockface"? If they do, I'll phone them and report what I saw last weekend.
Here's the scene: A friend and I were halfway up Dancing in the Light, a hard 7-pitch slab route on the Apron of the Squamish Chief. To our right, over an edge, were the usual multitudes on Diedre, the most popular (it's only 5.7) multi-pitch route in the known universe; and to the right of that was open slab. That slab is a fairly blank piece of rock, and other than the lower part where White Lightning traverses, rising from left to right, there were no routes on it back then.
Whooosssshhhhh! Down the slab came a rope. A single climbing rope, hanging from somewhere up out of my sight and ending in the middle of the slab to the right. And then down the rope came... what? I guess it must have been a climber, because he certainly was equipped for climbing. He was carrying a well-stuffed expedition pack and over his shoulder was a rack with enough gear to start a store. (Peder, who had just completed the White Lightning pitch and had a better view than I did, later told me it looked like the guy had a triple set of Friends through #4.)
He clipped himself to a bolt on the White Lightning traverse and waited while he was followed, hesitantly, down the rope by a somewhat overweight young woman who appeared to be rapping on a Grigri. My friend on White Lightning, guessing that it was her first rappel, and worried that she might lose control going over a small overlap, called down to her partner to tie the rope off to the bolt, but got no response.
By this time everybody on the adjacent routes had stopped climbing and was watching to see what would happen next. The pair had rappelled the full length of their rope from the station at the top of the 5.7 pitch on Diedre, and were now clipped to a bolt in the middle of nowhere. What were they doing? Was it part of a plan to try toproping a hard slab? Were they going to get some Jumar practice? Were they going to set up camp?
What they did was to call up to somebody at the station from which they had descended to untie the rope and toss it down.
And we all watched in fascination as the rope slid down to them, and then kept on sliding down, eventually piling up on a small ledge about 25 meters below the bolt they were now marooned on.
One of the many parties on Diedre was preparing to start the third pitch of that route from a station not far from where the rope was now sitting, and the leader went over, picked up an end, and took it up to the helpless ones (20 meters, 5.9, no pro) then traversed back into his own route and carried on up to his next belay station (about 3 meters from where I was hanging), and began bringing up his partner.
Meanwhile our heroes had managed to double their rope, thread it, and were now rapping (from that single bolt) down to the station just vacated by their rescuer. But what would they do next? It was a full 50m to the ground from there. Would they rap out and leave their rope? Would they try another 25m rappel and be left in the middle of nowhere (no bolts between them and the ground this time)?
Once again they fooled us. The guy started rapping _sideways_ across the ledge -- hoping, I suppose, that he could reach a station at its far end. But that ledge gradually fades out into the slab, and he decided that retreat was better than the monster pendulum he was sure to take if he carried on, and traversed back to his partner.
So there they sat. Hugging each other and not doing anything at all. I called down to ask if they needed help and they said they were fine, but since they were obviously lying, the guy who had saved their asses once already lowered down, tied off their rope, hung it over the edge, supervised them into a rappel, then untied it and tossed it to them once they were safe on the ground. (Although I should add that "the ground" in this case was about 200 meters of steep trail above the real ground, but with that triple set of Friends and all the gear in the pack I'm sure they made it down before thay ran out of food.)
That night I called Peder to ask if he had any idea what had started the whole adventure, since I hadn't been able to see from where I was. He told me that the pair had finished the 5.7 pitch (the crux) of Diedre, but that the woman had been too frightened to go on, so they had decided to rap out, asking somebody who was at the station to toss their rope once they finished the first rap.
Why they went straight down into the middle of the slab instead of tensioning slightly leftwards to stay in the corner they had just climbed, I don't know. Why they chose to rappel with one rope, I don't know. And why they chose to rappel at all when they had already finished the hardest pitches of their climb, I don't know either.
The moral? The only conclusion I can draw is that the gods must love idiots, or else the two idiots in this story would be on a different kind of slab right now.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 30, 2011 - 02:54am PT
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Haha, nice story of epic silliness. I recall it being pretty hard to rappel off Diedre with a single rope. I had to do it once with a girl and a single 50m rope in a sudden epic rainstorm from the top of the first dihedral pitch. I had to down climb quite a bit of it while holding onto the end of my rope after coming up short on the rappel. Pretty fun stuff while gallons of rain is drenching you.
We got down safely, thru all our soaking wet clothes but our skivies in the driers at the laundry-mat beside Mountain Burger, and hitchhiked back to Whistler.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2011 - 03:59am PT
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Tami- Too true. I guess what I was getting at was because of the way most climbers these days, typically their first climb will be a sport climb, so automatically they associate bolts with protection. Typically they eventually get into crack climbing but aren't familar with gear anchors and too scared to screw it up.
Bitd bolts were all drilled by hand so there had better be reason to drill them. Slinging a tree or building a gear anchor was much easier. So you did it alot, became proficient at it. That knowledge would have been passed on to beginners of that age as it was common practice.
Beginners who climb crack exclusively with seasoned crack climbers can often have difficultly with face or sport climbs. My lovely girlfriend is case in point.. I sick her on cracks all summer and then one day we go for a few clip ups and she gets all frustrated and flustered on an easy climb. She hates the gym, but she's all good at a hanging gear anchor.
So i see value in putting anchors every 30m until the traverse so someone that gets in over thier head a bit can bail if they need too... I do agree with Relic about his point on the last pitch and I handled that one quite easily by only clipping 2 of the bolts. Once again as a beginner leader I remember wishing there were a few moderate slab routes that I could learn on.
I see MH and MH2's point also and agree.. I too felt the same way when the signs started going up at Chek, I don't really see the need for them.. That is always the most fun part of climbing figuring out where you are and where the route is? Beginner Routefinding.
I would be concerned if this were becoming the norm but it's not. There are runout routes, why can there not be easier better protected routes for those who wish to climb them as well? JF got permission from the FA's?
As far as the enviromental issue goes just about every pitch in Squamish has had a massive excavation at some point.. Nobody ever bags on Sonnie for digging out the Buttface!
Those markers up there are also very handy when it's your first time up there, it's dark because it was busy and you have headlamps but your girlfriend hates approaches during the daytime much less at night!
Re The Ivanhoe- It would be fun to do a pub night again once in awhile.. I know the Howe Sound hosts climbers on a regular basis but maybe a organized night would be interesting?
Ghost awesome story.. can't say i've ever seen anything quite that stupid :)
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MH2
climber
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Oct 30, 2011 - 11:52am PT
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Although Skywalker is not the perfect climb for me I've done it 3 times and seen partners and other climbers have a great time on it. The route author knows what he's doing. Yes, the flagging off the top is going to help in the dark. However, the bolts on the last low-angle slab are probably more of a danger to trip over than a safety feature.
Although I've done most of the routes Relic mentions, and pitch 1 of Not Your Normal Nightmare, the most memorable time concerns the one I haven't done. Just a few years ago, Gordie Smaill and I climbed Teetering on the Brink. I looked up as he was right where the Reaper branches out left. He was on steep friction. He lifted each foot in turn and rotated the ankle. It was a glimpse into the past. There are times in climbing when the answer isn't more effort but rather less tension. Gord is good at staying calm.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 30, 2011 - 07:47pm PT
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'Bout 10-12 years ago now I climbed Snake under typical wet conditions. At the top we went to walk off as per usual and changed into walkoff footwear which for me was a pair of Tevas or something.
The walkoff was wet too and on that little polished slab that leads up and left to the zig-zag up to the base of Dessert Dyke and Form I managed to squeak off the wet slab in my slippery sandals and go for a ride.
I was headfirst down the slab on my belly like an otter thinking "well, f*#k."
The top of Voodoo Amour was coming up fast and I saw a little angled bonsai growing out of the rock off to one side and managed to latch it with one hand as I went by and my body swung around it like a pole-dancer showing off her cootch to a roomful of drunken loggers and I grabbed with my other hand and my legs went over the f*#king lip, but I stopped moving.
So I'm hanging there halfway over the lip of a quick fall all the way to the bottom of the Apron, where I'd probably make a nice red stain on Evergreen Street.
I mantled up on the little tree and Eric threw me a rope and I batmanned up it back to the ledge, and nearly threw up. Then I said something about "the horse what threw ya" and we hiked up to the base of Form and I roped up and tried to lead it and ended up hanging multiple times on every bolt because I was shaking so bad I kept slipping on the slab. But I got up it.
Then I didn't climb for about 4 months after that.
That's how I remember it, anyways. It may have happened differently.
I have, since then, roped up to go across that walkoff slab on occasion. Mostly when it's wet.
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new world order-
climber
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Oct 30, 2011 - 08:02pm PT
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^^^^Wow....just.....WOW! I know the spot of which you speak, Oplopanax.
I too would have taken 4 months off had it happened to me.
I once tried leading up Neat and Cool as a first climb of the day. I had been climbing well (at least I thought I was) all summer long and figured, why bother with a warm-up!? I'm solid! Well, I got to the (edit: 2nd) crux, and was full-on spent. I hung on for the life of me, trying to bust the move, but the lactic acid in my forearms was simply too much. All I can remember was a flash of sky as I fell. The rope was behind my leg, it flipped me up side down and my first point of contact was my (thankfully) helmeted head.
I was seeing stars, but was so adrenalated, I scampered up the back-side, cleaned the route, including the Metolius 2 that saved my adze, and called it a day...for a week.
To this day, I haven't even a desire to top-rope Neat and Cool, let alone lead it. Get back on the horse that bucked me off? Nope. Not that bronco.
Moral of the story? Allllways do your warm-up climbs.
And note where the rope is.
Feelin' kinda queasy now. May I be excused?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 30, 2011 - 09:40pm PT
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One person (at least) has died from a fall at the first crux of Neat & Cool, and others have been injured. Although it can be well-protected, it's a fairly high fall factor fall, it's easy to get flipped by the rope, and if even one piece pulls...
A 5.10a climb for 5.10d leaders.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 30, 2011 - 11:58pm PT
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I was headfirst down the slab on my belly like an otter thinking "well, f*#k."
The top of Voodoo Amour was coming up fast and I saw a little angled bonsai growing out of the rock off to one side and managed to latch it with one hand as I went by and my body swung around it like a pole-dancer showing off her cootch to a roomful of drunken loggers and I grabbed with my other hand and my legs went over the f*#king lip, but I stopped moving.
...jeeeee-zuzzzz!! Epic Oplo! It's amazing what a person can do when forced into survival mode.
Not Your Normal Nightmare is an amazing sister climb to Magic Carpet Ride MH2, and well worth doing. I've watched a couple of different leaders fall to the ground on the first pitch of MCR before reaching the first bolt way up there. Lucky for them the landing is kind of forgiving.
My partner and I had our own little mini epic on Dream On once. The first pitch, which I had led a few times before, gave me a good ride. Not being fully awake yet, I had a right foot slide off while about to clip one of the few bolts that exist on the 10c first pitch, the one up past the scoop. The ensuing fall gave me plenty of time to teach myself various ways to slide, run, and scrape down slab. I highly recommend it to anyone provided you are wearing proper skin saving attire, it's a good laugh. Luckily the pitch was nice and long, with nothing to ledge out on.
The second pitch of Dream On did not make us laugh as hard, actually we never even made it there. Instead, my partner got lost and started his way up some dirty-long-forgotten-slab-corner-from-hell otherwise known as Firewalk. He made it about 15 feet up before the dirt got the best of him, sending him failing onto the ledge below, breaking his ankle.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 31, 2011 - 12:15am PT
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Relic, I took a similar fall on the first pitch of Dream On - in 1976. Recounted somewhere on the "Climbing at Squamish in the 1970s" thread, along with many other Apron stories.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 31, 2011 - 12:39am PT
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Oh ya that's right MH. There's a good pool of Apron slab stories there. I especially like the Grim Reaper story. That massive pendulum fall on the Reaper was the wildest lead fall I have ever witnessed. My slab partner from the Dream On disaster took that one while I was belaying him. We quickly ran away after... Also to make the outing even more spooky, there was a heli-extraction of a fatality going on above us while we were busy falling off the Reaper. It was a guide, her name escapes me, that I believe fell while teaching clients how to rappel. Very sad and tragic...
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 31, 2011 - 02:25am PT
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I thought it was a fatality, hopefully I'm wrong. Was Julia the guide that had the rappelling accident? That name rings a bell, that could be it.
Phew thanks Tami, glad Julia is ok!
I think it was the incident where a rock shifted that was being used as a rappelling anchor and the person fell 35m to broadway ledge. Was that her? Maybe I'm totally mixed up.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 31, 2011 - 10:56am PT
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Yeah, that wes Julia. (I think that's her name. A dancer). And I don't think the rock shifted -- I think the loop of rope she'd thrown over the boulder came off.
Whatever the cause she took that monster fall and survived. Who knows how?
There's almost always a huge mud pond at the bottom, maybe she landed in that?
Pretty miraculous in any case.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 31, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
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I had the honor (?) of holding the Grigri for Julia's "vertical dance" at a VIMFF opening gala. If I recall right she came whipping out over the stage on a rope swing, scattering feathers, while bird calls played on the soundtrack.
All I could think of, though, was the John Candy as Peter Pan sketch on SCTV
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmqs5_s8YbA
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MH2
climber
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Oct 31, 2011 - 01:26pm PT
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In the same or a different vein, a dancer party scouting the top of the Split Pillar for a performance venue dropped their ropes and got rescued by a friend of mine who happened to be in the area.
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bmacd
Mountain climber
100% Canadian
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Oct 31, 2011 - 02:48pm PT
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has in anyone in Canada ever had their "guide card" revoked ? Shouldn't there be a minimum weight ? I recall a few guides that were rather "light" as Daryl would say ...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 31, 2011 - 04:39pm PT
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Grace died in spring 1992, I believe April. (I'd have to find the clippings.) She was exploring Pangranitic Wall from above, and IIRC was swinging from side to side. Her rope abraded over an edge, or maybe just a rough area.
She had climbed Cannabis Wall solo, sometime within the preceding year.
As for Bruce's question, you'd have to direct it to the groups representing climbing guides. I don't know if those groups, in Canada or elsewhere, have ever revoked someone's membership for incompetent, unethical or unprofessional behaviour.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 31, 2011 - 08:44pm PT
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Ok yes, I have it straight in my brain now. I always walked by that swamp cursing it, but man what a life saver! I was mixing up Julia's accident with another one that happened when I was climbing close by -- The fellow that lowered off to his death on Exasperator.
Enough doom and gloom. Happy Halloween!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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The fellow that lowered off to his death on Exasperator.
Seattle climber. His nickname, in the Seattle community, was "Beta". Presumably because he could give you beta for just about any route in the PNW. But his beta very nearly killed my partner, which kind of upset me (and her) at the time.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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We were climbing the Flake and Cleaning the Brain/Simian Response that afternoon. We had finished up and left the area at the time of the accident. What an ugly tragedy.
On a different note, what are some of your favorite obscure climbs in Squamish that deserve way more traffic. Got any mossed over gems that you think should be brought back to usage?
My vote is the above mentioned Cleaning the Brain(Jim Brennan FA in the 80's) and it's continuation second pitch, the Simian Response. In 2003, my friend Andreas and I scrubbed the crap out of the Brain to make it climbable. It was an awesome 10c splitter thin-hand crack that hardly anyone ever climbed. We put up a second pitch that went up the not very aesthetic looking but fun to climb corner system to the right, Andreas named it the Simian Response. It was a steep layback 10+ enduro pitch that featured a bomb-bay chimney which only long legged peeps like me could de-pump on. Both pitches were really good quality, but might very well be mossed over again.
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MH2
climber
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Thanks for the suggestion of Cleaning the Brain/ Simian Response.
I've done Raindance a couple times and continued up the mossy corner to the cedar. That's 2 obscure pitches.
I am surprised by the relative popularity of Calculus Crack compared to its neighbor South Arete.
Once I was told that a few Squamish regulars have a list of obscure climbs on the fridge. I've never seen such a list.
I don't know how much traffic The Reacharound sees but it stays clean and it is pretty good. Judging by the vegetation on it, Mr. Picklebits is obscure. There are many climbs that don't get talked about much but are well worth doing.
A route I have tried to find out about lies directly under where Julia took her spectacular fall.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1003155&tn=0
edit:
Just a couple weeks ago we saw signs of cleaning just right of the mystery crack.
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bmacd
Mountain climber
100% Canadian
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Squamish could use a new guidebook, that for once, includes all climbs
not select, not excluding, just all of them, in one goddam book, preferably not written by a sport climber or an exclusionist or a revisionist
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Matt M
Trad climber
Alamo City
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The fellow that lowered off to his death on Exasperator
Small world on ST. I was there when David Gunstone (beta) fell on Exasperator. It was my first time in Squamish and I was just finishing up the last part of Cruel Shoes. I had just reached the far right side of the ledge near the Split Pillar base. I heard scraping, a scream and looked down to see a man bouncing and tumbling to the ground. Saw the whole thing. Still can a bit... I brought my partner up and decided to bail having watched the activity on the ground the whole time my motivation for the rest of the Grand was quashed for the day. We rapped down right next to the ER team working on him. Not much to do at that point. I was new to the PNW and only learned later how much DG had done for Index, WA among other places.
After making sure we couldn't be of any help we retreated to the Pub for many beers...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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"The Gong and Short of It" ( I think that's the name?) is pretty much right on the highway roadcut ( a non-blasted section) in an otherwise climbless section of highway south of the orange bridge on the Cheakamus South section of the 99. Great obscure 10b fingercrack.
Maybe it's just the Gong Show. I dunno. I think it's listed in McLane's Whistler guide, somewhere.
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MH2
climber
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Obscure?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Is Quagmire Crack obscure again? It's one of my favorites and although it was very briefly not obscure, I bet it's back to being off most people's radar.
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MH2
climber
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The entire Lower Malemute is obscure again. Well, large parts of it, anyway.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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HOW DO YOU PRONOUNCE SQUAMISH?
Caps off
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Some friends and I had some great climbing adventures up @ the "Fluffy Kitten Wall... years ago... grand location... shady faces you can see from hwy... below Mt.Habrich.
I would imagine that it qualifies as "obscure" these days, as road is closed.
Great climbing in Aug... in the shade... sorry, no pics.
Anyone ever climb there?
... think I met Bruce K.(maybe) once...talked about some ICE routes on it?...
Cheers
A.Durie
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MH2
climber
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Yes, I've been to Fluffy Kitten and climbed Tiggers. Great feel to the place. Not sure why the rope bridge because we go in August to out-wait snow melting above and making the rock wet, and the water high.
A sequence from Quagmire Crack
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Most of the lower malamute is relatively cleean and climbable although illegal, except the few that bruce mentioned along with the two access pitchs to quagmire; canadian compromise a 'wild' looking flaring flake, and a balancy looking barley route that had a fix line hanging near the start.
sick photos mh, you musta fixed your belay anchor super long.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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I have some pics of my friends and I climbing Fluffy Kitten wall somewhere in the stash. We didn't know what we were climbing at the time, just started going up some multi-pitch route with shiny anchors. The climbing was great quality, nice and clean. We got to the last shiny anchor in the middle of the wall, looked up and said, "why not keep going?". So I started up some easy crack line, it was filthy dirty. I kept going till I set up a gear belay at a stance. I didn't clean any of it and neither did my friends. We kept forging up the wall, trying to find a path to reach the summit but we got to a bush ledge and decided to call it quits. Trying to clean out unclimbed dirt cracks, on lead with only a nut-tool was not as much fun as we hoped. We rappelled off a laughable bush "anchor". It looked like good bush, well good enough not to die on.
We later found out it was called Pussy Galore. Does that ring a bell Sac?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I've got a picture somewhere of Dick and Corina two or three pitches up on the first ascent of the first route on the Fluffy Kitten Wall. It wasn't called Fluffy Kitten then, and we only got about three pitches done, and never went back. I don't know why we didn't go back -- plenty of other climbs calling to us I guess.
If I can find the picture, I'll scan it and post it. Won't happen for a few weeks though, cuz everything we own is buried in the basement while we are ripping apart the upstairs and putting it back together.
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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My pal Brian came up w/ the name "Fluffy Kitten".
He was looking to downplay the big bold majestic name... or something.
Relic, good on ya! I recall that route being 1/2 pitches? I'd heard of someone continuing...anyway, prob. the one... as obvious dry crack to jump on...
Ghost, Wow, too cool... mystery solved? There is a route in the older KM guide, listed "unknown" that is... until now? I remember seeing the tat.
Good to hear of folks climbing up there... "Backcountry rockclimbing in SW B.C."
There is another, larger wall up, and right of the Kitten (seen from hwy!)
It got climbed once, as far as I know... very good quality climbing onsite, and we continued to summit Habrich. Some plumbs on that one fershur! I was always amazed that w' all the climbers around, very, few would seek adventures in this zone, amazing rock, way up there, viewed from hwy. 99, minimal approach "old growth" forests... aaaaaanyway... Obscure fer shur, eh. Now w/ road closed.
Mh2... what's the best way up that road these days... pieds?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Ya Sac, we added those two scruffy pitches I described above to the existing route. KMcL guidebook has some made up drawing of the path we took, which is totally wrong. Actually, the line went just left of some huge overhangs then directly up the wall. The description and dotted line drawing of the last pitch of Kitty Porn looks and sounds like where we finished up. I suspect we might have climbed the same finger crack but approached it from below.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I remember seeing the tat.
Now that's an interesting subject all on its own. Most of us who have done "first ascents" at Squamish (and I imagine at most other places), have either discovered evidence that someone was there before us, or found out that someone was there even if they didn't leave any evidence.
Some of it can be mysterious indeed. As as been mentioned already on ST, a climb that Loomer and I did the first ascent of, and which later was extended and named Rock On, turns out to have been climbed may years earlier by Hamish. He even named it. Called it Bastille. But no one ever really knew where this mystery route was, and there was nothing to indicate that anyone had been on it before us when Loomer and I climbed it.
But here's another, even more mysterious sighting: Whereas I can see how Hamish and partner got on their climb -- just thrashed up the gully and started climbing -- I found a gear station on what is now the fourth pitch of Borderline when I was cleaning it, but haven't got a clue how it could have got there. The cleaning involved to get to that point was absolutely brutal, and I just don't believe anybody had gone up that way before us. And yet there was what appeared to be an old rap anchor about half way up the fourth pitch. And not from the dark ages, either, because there was a hex involved. So presumably from the 1970s.
I assume that at some point, someone had rapped down the face from above, maybe scoping it out, maybe having some kind of epic retreat from the Angels Crest, but I really don't know. What I do know is that the cracks and corners on Bordeline were among the dirtiest I've cleaned, and I really doubt that anyone could have gone up there without leaving any trace.
Anybody out there have any knowledge or ideas?
Edit: Posted from as far away from climbing as you can get in North America. The airport in the hellhole known as Miami.
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MH2
climber
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According to Bruce Kay above, the road to Fluffy Kitten is again open. Good for 2WD but may have a few uneven spots that it might be wise not to go too fast over. You don't want to come back down this way:
A friend worked on a trail to get to Habrich from Fluffy Kitten. I heard it may be hard to follow, though.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I'm about to turn off this laptop and get on a plane, so don't have time to post the incredible adventure Pete Shack had on the Habrich road. Anyone else know that one? If not, I'll post it tomorrow.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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When I was cleaning the Beefwhale in Cheakamus Canyon there was a webbing station on top. I figured somebody had rapped down to take a look and decided it was too dirty to bother with. But I later found out that John Chilton had climbed it ground-up a few years earlier.
I put about 50 hours into scrubbing that pitch. 15 years later, except for my rap chains on top, you ca nnot tell it was ever climbed. From experience, some things in wetter areas (like, say, the Bulletheads, or the mossy hole in the forest by Digital Dexterity) take about 4 years to go from fully clean to mossed over so badly you cannot see that they were ever cleaned.
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Wooooooow... B.K. too cool!!! (literally!)
Did you guys climb the iced "Cat o' nine tails??" Looks wild!!
Great pics!
I remember seeing hangers "flattened" on "Tiggers"... thought someone was
opposed to them @ the time... later realized that the Ice had done it.
Do you know when the gate opened?
Cheers
A.
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Good stuff BK!
Yeah, Amazing how "quality" can justify "means". eh? Love it!
Anyway, think we chatted about all this yrs ago on a lift ride in Whistler... going down.
... talked of hitting Spanky's Wall?... maybe...
Which reminds me... Rob Richards headed up there once... miffed by the route names, it seemed... not impressed... apon his return he left a message: "pure Yosemite delight" he said... that description always stuck w/ me, and strive to find reasons to use it.
Cheers
Andy Durie
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2011 - 11:58am PT
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Wow great thread... :)
Awesome stories Bruce. Thanks for sharing.
Relic- Let's see those pics!
Jim- Still waiting for that pic of your mangled hands!
Not Obscure
Photo: Kyle Koroll
Although I was surprised at how much dirt was on the next pitch.
Semi-Obscure
Upper Echelon! Good climb. Great alternative to Ultimate Everything.
Keep it up folks!
Edit: Just in case you missed it, Luke's first effort with his G12!
Nightmare Tr
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2011 - 01:35pm PT
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No way! Its well worth it! Ill post the 10d crux pic again when i get home from the gym
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Not sure why the rope bridge because we go in August to out-wait snow melting above and making the rock wet, and the water high.
Lucky you...Winter its not so easy...however I am sure there are more stable designs?
Climbers on Forever young, photo centre
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MH2
climber
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^^^^^^^^^
Beautiful! What year?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2011 - 11:51pm PT
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10d crux pitch of Upper Echelon
Fantastic pitch! Stays wet for awhile though.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Wow, nice looking corner. Who would have thunk?
I like beer.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Obscure but good, this pic was taken on the FA of The Simian Response. It's a 10d to the right of Millennium Falcon in the Dihedrals. Climb Cleaning the Brain, a 10c thin hand splitter crack, to start the thin enduro layback corner of Simian.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Found some pics from us on the Fluffy Kitten wall. These are us on the upper pitches we added to Pussy Galore.
Methot took that 10b finger crack pitch up to some gear belay. Then Robinson did a micro pitch to the bush ledge.
That's the bush we rappelled down off. KM calls it a "large tree ledge" in his guidebook...
This is a climb that would be really nice if properly cleaned, it would climb like a classic on the Apron. Accessibility makes that very unlikely to happen though.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2011 - 03:35am PT
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Cool pics Relic. Simian looks rad! I've been meaning to get to Fluffy Kitten for years.
Here are a couple more from Climb and Punishment.
Kyle sets up for the last piece before the crux
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Nov 14, 2011 - 09:34am PT
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that is climb and punishment dude..
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Nov 14, 2011 - 09:46am PT
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Partners in CRIME is to the right, the 11a straight up thin weirdo sized crack. Looking at the first picture I thought someone might have bolted Climb and Punishment. I think those bolts are on Sunny Days in November right?
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MH2
climber
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Nov 14, 2011 - 10:46am PT
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Sunny Days in December goes up left from Climb and Punishment. The bolts in the photos are on a newer route right of CAP.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 14, 2011 - 02:03pm PT
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Yeah, the Red Green Show 12-. A couple boulder problems in the middle of the wall leading to the midway ledge on C+P
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Nov 14, 2011 - 03:08pm PT
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Haha, I goofed the name after correcting mikes goof. Me so dumb.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2011 - 04:08pm PT
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Oops. Guess we're a a bunch of goofs ;) I labeled it right on flickr. Guess it was a bit late last night.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2011 - 06:54pm PT
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Here is a couple more...
Me on Triage Arret, Smoke Bluffs
Triage again
Photos Nina Hagen aka Rock Star!
Kyle on Snake 5.9 the Apron.
Luke Cormier Photo
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Nov 16, 2011 - 05:16pm PT
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Ohh no, it's snow!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Nov 16, 2011 - 05:39pm PT
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Great thread, astounding really, just the right amount of entropy.
There has been rumours about a new Squamish book on it's way. Are there any new rumours to be added?
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Nov 16, 2011 - 06:18pm PT
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That's great Tami. There may be combinations u know. History-books that also contain photos and descriptions of classical routes. That may just add to the thrill if done properly. Heard of Hinterstoisser Quergang, Todesbiwak and Die Weisse Spinne? ;o)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2011 - 12:35am PT
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The south coast has been suffering from a high pressure spell as of late.
As a snowboarder at heart this can be somewhat troubling, but the climber in me embraced Kyle's bold idea of hiking up to Spanky's wall last week before the chair opened to take advantage of these inversion conditions in the high alpine.
The groomers had laid a fine carpet so the hiking was rather easy. When I arrived, Kyle was rigging a convenient rappel.
We top roped a 5.9 warm up as my late arrival had left us with a very small window before darkness would descend.
It was a beautiful day and the cloud which had been shrouding the wall in shade all day conveniently left and the sun basked us in it's warmth.
More soon.. Life intervenes...
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 14, 2011 - 12:48am PT
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Nice flicks Cowp Cowp
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MH2
climber
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Dec 14, 2011 - 12:51am PT
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That is a nice day and great images.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2011 - 01:53am PT
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It was a fantastic day indeed. The lighting and clouds made for some unique photographic opportunities.
I have photographed many alpenglow scenes but never from such an epic vantage point
Kyle was silouetted by the sunset as he packed up the rope.
We got to the top of the crag as the light was fading fast and Kyle quickly had a bite of his sandwich while he waited for me.
We rode Ruby Bowl in the almost full moonlight and were plunged into darkness as we rounded the corner on Blackcomb Glacier Road.
When we reached the truck, we pledged to return on friday when the weather was supposed to be good again.
Here is a sneak preview.
Blister in the Sun 5.9 Spanky's Wall, Blackcomb.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 14, 2011 - 02:41am PT
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Going back a few posts, Bill Morris and I once put up a route called "Partners in Grime", but not at Squamish. The moss and dirt came off in sheets.
Kid, as I understand it there are three, yes three, Squamish books on the way.
Marc Bourdon is planning a comprehensive, as noted above.
Kevin McLane and Andrew Boyd are working on both a Squamish Comprehensive, and a Squamish Classics--Select.
It's going to be duelling guidebooks, and then some! Too late for Santa, so save your allowances, boys and girls.
HM
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2011 - 05:13pm PT
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Hamie- Looking forward to a new good comprehensive up-to-date guide book.. No more printed topos in my ruck sack?
Last friday was Kyle's birthday, and the weather was nice so we headed up to the wall again with a few more people in tow.. It got pretty warm in the afternoon sun, i swear it was almost 20C at one point.
When we got there I hung a rope to jumar on the aret and Kyle got ready to lead Blister in the Sun 5.9
Kyle reaches for the roof clip on Blister in the Sun.
Getting into the layback.
Blister in the Sun goes left at the roof, Ski Bum Come 5.10a goes right up the crack feature.
Kyle with the head jam gaining the roof feature, as Nina belays
More soon..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2011 - 03:11am PT
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After Blister Kyle led Ski Bum Come 10a
Kyle climbed my fixed line on You'll Go Blind 5.9 to take it down.
I led one after this. Kyle took some good pics.. I'll see if i can rustle some up soon.
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perswig
climber
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Dec 15, 2011 - 06:11am PT
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Nice recent additions here. That looks like an excellent day.
Dale
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2011 - 02:38am PT
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Dale- Thanks it was quite warm and beautiful.. We couldn't have asked for much more.
After the roof on Ski Bum Come
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 16, 2011 - 11:57am PT
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Sending Apron strings w/ big mike on belay
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2011 - 01:19pm PT
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Sick Luke! I still can't beleive you onsighted that crux.
Kyle tops out on Ski Bum Come
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2011 - 02:37pm PT
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You guys named a few wierd ones in your time too i'm sure :)
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 16, 2011 - 03:52pm PT
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Mike your turning the squamish photos and stories thread into the Kyle climbing spankys thread, enough already, lets see some different zone!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2011 - 04:38pm PT
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Sorry dude just posting the newest ones I have... keep posting yours! Would love to see more of everyone else's too!
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 16, 2011 - 04:44pm PT
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just jibbin dude, but it would make more sence if you got alot of photos of one zone to just make a TR...
but then again this thead was created out of your willingness to do so, so doo what ever you please!
It was certainly in my best interest to onsight it as a fall from there with rope running behind my leg as it is would not have been a pleasent experience...
http://thekidcormier.blogspot.com
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2011 - 03:18am PT
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Luke, you are correct I could have done a TR, but with the lack of action around here for the last month, I thought I would brush the dust off this thread instead.
Sort of a tr bump I guess.
You are certainly correct. That fall would have been nasty. I remember being quite amazed when you neglected to place at the crux and go for the send.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2011 - 06:06pm PT
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Chico guards the summit from Will
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Dec 19, 2011 - 06:30pm PT
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La Coalition 3rd pitch
La Coalition 3rd pitch
La Coalition 5th pitch...nails!
Da 'Beav
The Mrs on Mosquito
1st route I ever did at Squamish, some 11a behind the campground
The offwidth half way up Angels Crest, not too bad either
Taking a breather while rope soloing Angels Crest
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Dec 19, 2011 - 06:42pm PT
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Wow thanks for the pics. Always wondered what this climb looked like. The 11+ pitch looks amazing.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Dec 19, 2011 - 06:53pm PT
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Yup that 11+ pitch was solid, you just got to crank! Not many good jams...
That 3rd pitch was loads of fun, solid 10 for sure...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 19, 2011 - 07:40pm PT
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1st route I ever did at Squamish, some 11a behind the campground
Looks like A Pitch In Time - which Eric graded 5.9. OK, maybe 5.9+.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Dec 19, 2011 - 09:05pm PT
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Bruce if you are talking about the 3rd pitch roof crack, then yes it has been climbed, that's where the pitch goes. The crack is close to the wall and used for the first part...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2011 - 04:12am PT
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Happy Winter Solstice!
-FB thanks for the pics! Nice work. You rope soloed Angel's Crest? How long did that take you? What did you have for pro on that offwidth? We usually skip the big stuff for weight so we go the traditional way, but it would be fun to hit that.
La Coalition looks sick! thekidcormier wanted to get on it one day last year but we decided to go do Milk Road instead.
I met up with Kyle and Nina this afternoon in the Smoke Bluff parking lot to take advantage of some positive temps and excellent friction. We headed up to Penny Lane where we met up with thekidcormier.
Kyle wanted to lead Clandestine Affair so I suggested that Nina put up Quarryman so I could take pictures of someone different for a change. She politely declined, and thekidcormier wanted to lead it, but none of us really wanted to see him whip on his rope and draw harness setup :)
Not that he would have...
After a pretty smooth transfer from the Quarryman anchor to the Yorkshire Gripper, I had a bitch of a time figuring out my setup with my brand new jugs and trying to get over the roof.
After a little help for a passerby climber I hooked the Safety about neck height to my upper jug and sat on it while jugging my lower one with both ladders attached.
It was 340 by the time I started taking pics and the sun was setting fast. The lighting was amazing.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:39am PT
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Killer Pics Fish Boy, La coalition looks sick!
Big mike I tryin to get you hit La gota Fria (5.10+ A0), No la coalition(5.11+)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2011 - 12:51pm PT
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You are right. There is only one 11+ pitch tho and it takes good gear so we could probably aid it.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Dec 23, 2011 - 01:39am PT
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Here's Big Mike at the butt end of the climbing season in Squamish for 2011.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Dec 24, 2011 - 01:11am PT
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Hey mike...Angels took about 2 and a half hours climbing time, but 4 hours sitting around. I started around 2 and did the last pitch in the dark...free soloed a lot of the easier terrain. My biggest cam was a blue C4 and I broke the trigger wires after the first pitch so didn't use anything on the offwidth, just started up it for a look and came down and roped up.
My buddy and I had planned to do La Coalition into La Gota Fria, but spent a few hours trying to find it, wandering around on a cool ledge which had bear on it! Gave up eventually, tried again later and ended up doing upper echelon ...now I've worked out where it is from the road and it looks AMAZING! You'll want to be upper end .11 climber with strong forearms to get that 11+ pitch clean, but it isn't brainy, just run!
It's good seeing all of these pics...
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Dec 24, 2011 - 01:27am PT
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Went to go do St Vitus but got side tracked on to this? No idea what it is 3 or so pitches and just to the right of st vitus?
Finishes up here
Crappy over bolted route in a nice position...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 24, 2011 - 01:35am PT
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The climb to the right of St. Vitus is Vector. The corner in your second photo is an upper pitch of Evergreen State.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 24, 2011 - 11:51am PT
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Vector Kicks Ass... Christmas bump...
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MH2
climber
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Dec 24, 2011 - 12:14pm PT
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And the next climb to the right is Whirling Dervish.
Although Evergreen State traverses in to get to the corner shown by Fish Boy.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Dec 24, 2011 - 03:20pm PT
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I agree, Vector is awesome. Super easy off width on a slab. A good mild intro to that size although I don't think it's burly enough to be real OW.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2011 - 11:04am PT
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I have yet to climb Vector. That 10d final corner looks awesome! Most times when I see people on Vector they finish that way.
We got out on Thursday and managed to get a few pitches in. Everything in the shade was covered in frost but the sun provided a little warmth.
Luke wanted to lead Jangling Ball Wall so he put up a fixed line for me to take pics.
When we were setting up, another gentleman at the crag walks over to me and says "Mike? is that you?" to which i replied of course "Yes". He says "It's Relic!".
Relic on Jangling Ball Wall
After Relic styled it, I gave it a shot and got stuck at the crux for a bit, after more than a few ushba falls I managed to figure it out.
Mike
Photo Kieran Brownie
^^^^ el famoso snowboard photographer :)
Luke decided he wasn't ready so we moved on to Crime of the Century.
He got it clean twice on top rope but was gassed and decided against leading it.
I got a cool shot of him doing the Kahoukers move.
Relic at the crag
Merry Christmas ya'll!! gotta go ride some pow.
Nice pics everyone! keep it up!
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 26, 2011 - 11:16am PT
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Pack your pipes it almost the four hundredth and twentieth post!!
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 26, 2011 - 01:22pm PT
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It certainly didnt feel polished in the brisk decemeber temps.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2011 - 02:44pm PT
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Crime of the Century had the best friction i've ever experienced on it the other day. I almost cleaned it but still managed to loose it just before the top.
HAHAHA I pulled a #1supermama and deleted my link to grossmans thread so Luke could have post 420 :)
Here it is again.
Awesome Squamish thread bump!
Classic-Squamish-Chief-Commentary-Robin-Barley-1978
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/511948/Classic-Squamish-Chief-Commentary-Robin-Barley-1978
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 26, 2011 - 02:52pm PT
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Take that anders!!
Long live free weed and no work!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 26, 2011 - 03:25pm PT
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It's impossible to believe that anyone here would be dumb enough to smoke anything, to inhale smoke - apart from campfire smoke, that is. It's bad for you, and we don't do things that may be bad for us, do we?
Is Crime of the Century getting more polished? Certainly the start is about a metre lower than it originally was, and that is one of the hardest bits.
Now Tami has #420, FWIW. Considering she lives at the Weed Farm, possibly apropos.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 26, 2011 - 04:21pm PT
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To which I can bear witness - Tami has converted her front yard and her back yard entirely to garden (and weeds), except for maybe two square metres of grass for the BBQ. She's also making good use of nearby public land - the fanatic gardeners in Vancouver do that. Tami has fruits and vegetables which I've never heard of, growing in profusion. Plus some that I do know about, which are quite tastee.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2011 - 04:34pm PT
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I can deal with tami having 420. At least she might appreciate it :)
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Dec 26, 2011 - 07:01pm PT
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CoC was good friction except for the first move with polished feet. Past that, you can just stick yer toes in thee crack so it doesn't really matter. I think the first finger lock got a little higher so Tami might need a trampoline or stepladder now.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 26, 2011 - 07:38pm PT
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My Four hundredth and twentieth post was short lived, I'm now out of weed, broke as hell and.. oh crap i forget...
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MH2
climber
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The roof pitch at the bottom is prominently in view from the early pitches of Angel's Crest, making one wonder. Thanks for explaining what is going on with the gear there. Congratulations on getting out with Marc.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 29, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2012 - 04:53pm PT
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Mh2- Luke related a story that Mark told him about one of the upper pitches which goes on all hooks, so Mark decided to leave it that way, and run it out hard... Maybe Luke or Mark himself could elaborate..
Solo- Nice photos! Re: Your question about anyone wanting to climb with you on your thread... You seem like a talented and eager climber, and i'm pretty sure I could take some awesome photos of you soloing high up on the Chief... But, I question your risk assesment, based on some of your posts on SC and here, and some of my conversations with Eric.
I don't discourage people taking risks by any means... I take them myself all the time.. Every risk I take though is a calculated one.. I consider the outcomes of the situation before I put myself at risk. I am by no means perfect, and have made many mistakes in my life, which I try and learn from.
Anyways.. If we were to hang out, It would be nice to know that you were gonna be around for awhile.. I don't particularily like losing friends...
Luke- Sic pic! Nice to see you like that g12.
The gang got out to the Bluffs on sunday.. I got out late, because it was a rest day from my snow addiction and I was enjoying a peaceful morning.
I arrived just in time for Luke's Redpoint attempt on Jangling Balls Wall
He was looking pretty good at the crux..
But, Gravity is sometimes inevitable..
I hitched a ride on Health Hazard
Kyle Koroll Photo
It was a beautiful semi-sunny Feburary day... Amazing for Squamish :)
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Eh, maybe I need to have more of a close call in order to actually figure out for myself where I stand. It can take me a lengthy bit of time to break out of my comfort zone in some sports, but with climbing, I never really had an issue with it. I feel fairly confident on the rock, which is probably why I don't consider risks as much as I maybe should. I just caught on really quickly, and then sort of ran with it.
Either way, I wouldn't mind climbing with you and Luke..... you can decide for yourself if I am an accident waiting to happen. I don't think I am, but then again, I'm biased ;)
Just don't judge me based on what Eric says.
I also haven't been climbing much recently. Taking advantage of the spring snow conditions...... been awesome up the North Shore Mountains.
Edit: Don't worry, I plan on being around for a while. Also, JBW looks like fun; what's it go at?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Bluffs were so nice again today. Gotta love these bonus winter days.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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A friend from Calgary took time off from his usual winter diet of WI5s to do some 10s at White Buddha last w/e. In a t-shirt too!
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Post some pics mr multch!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2012 - 01:42am PT
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Ya Hamie! We would love to see them!
Nathan- I'm willing to give you a shot... That was my caveat emptor..You gotta get that rack going if you're gonna be whipping alot :)
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Bump, just to get on a new page.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Kid and Big Mike
Your every wish is my command.No sooner said than done.
Your humble servant, etc etc
HM.
Photos courtesy of Dave Jack.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2012 - 02:14pm PT
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Relic- So nice to get out in the winter. Cool to go snowboarding, then climbing the next day and back to snow the next. Sorry I missed you this round. Next time.
Hamie! Thanks for the window into the future! So apparently it's going to be nice this weekend... :)
Just kidding, thanks for the photos!
As your reward, I give you a smile..
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Working on my rack..... Don't plan on whipping too much ;) but sh#t happens.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Nath's a good bloke, I'd give him a shot, even if he did wuss out on going aiding with me...there might be others like that too..;) I'd climb with him over that other chap who was mentioned :cough: :cough:!
Nath, where are you sliding on the North Shore? I do a fair bit of BC/night skinning...you?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2012 - 02:54am PT
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Relic- It really doesn't rain here! :) according to that video..
Fish- Really, people wuss out on going aiding eh? ... hmmm.. I geuss i'm guilty but it was late November :)..
Nath- I'll shoot you a message next time it gets nice.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2012 - 03:04am PT
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thanks for confirming your sexuality with that comment bmacd.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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No worries Mike ;)...
BTW, I have hung with Nathan on the rocks a fair bit, never really tied in but been around him a lot. While many of the points raised may be factual, he is a perfectly decent human being. If he was around in the 60's he would be admired, however there are too many other climbers around today to behave how we want (damn it!). Just give him some guidance, he surely has the point now!
On another note, let is f*#king SNOW!!!!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2012 - 03:26am PT
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Fish- You got that right!! POW POW!!!
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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even if he did wuss out on going aiding with me
Haha, aiding scares the crap outa me still, but I'll give it a shot. We just never set a date or anything..... then the snow hit and climbing has kinda been off my radar since then.
Fish - I've been riding Grouse mostly, as I have a pass for there and their park set up is sick (I'm a park rat).
Also, thanks for the vote of confidence; I appreciate it.
Mike - Looking forward to getting out for a day with you at some point, but I'll probably be keeping it fairly low until the end of March - after Showdown. Gotta practice!
Cheers :)
Edit: Fish, I'd love to do some BC riding, cept I don't have snowshoes or a split :(
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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All good bro, I like the snow too.
The most spaz fall I have ever seen anyone take was by Bear Breeder. He was trying something too hard, wobbled for a while, then did the most awkward reverse dive ever. His feet stayed on the wall and his head skyrocketed downwards and ended up headfirst VERY close to the ground. Who saved him? Our man Nathan. Who cruised it smoothly afterwards? Nathan.
I'm not one to start taking sides, but some of the sh#t that came out of Bear Breeder's mouth was embarrassing. My wife and I were rolling our eyes at the comments he made regarding females, his jokes online also reflect this (like his post 2 above me). He also made comments about me running it out too much I believe (my mrs overheard him).
Point is, Nathan is harmless. He has pissed me off a few times soloing near me while leading, but I just said what I thought and he got the point without being taken back or upset. Yeah he is a little scary, but damn he is confident and strong, he just needs some direction, like most of us!
-peace-
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 10, 2012 - 12:13am PT
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-Is the Bear?
-Is the guy?
-Hey you, bear phucker... Enough with callin out natedogg on stupid sh#t, we dont want to hear it... if these so called newbs cant decide what is safe for them they shouldnt leave the house let alone learn to rock climb.
As for you fish man, I get the point, I've been called out.. I'm down to get on a wall with you the end of next week; thursday/ friday?
Edit: this is not a thread for accusation, this is a photo and stories thread, and as a self appointed moderator I hereby prohibit bearbreader and soloclimber from telling stories involving one and other.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 10, 2012 - 01:25am PT
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Satan's Slit --
a romantic valentine's getaway?
a frothing wide gash of rock that spits out pebbles onto belayers' unattentive noggins's?
the best climb in the bluffs next to the garden formerly known as Hot Cherry Bendover?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 10, 2012 - 02:03am PT
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I love the Slit. I found it way more challenging climbing outside of the chockstones, close to the edge. It was way too gooey on the inside. MH2 has a good pic of it somewhere back in the 1970's forum. My unburly kneecaps took a mild beating on Tuesday.
Yeppers Tami, it's next to Penny Lane.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 10, 2012 - 02:03am PT
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in dire need of insertion
Heh heh. Tami said insertion. Heh heh.
But she's right. Only maybe a blue butt plug should be involved.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 10, 2012 - 02:08am PT
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We first did it in February 1974. A sunny day, but it was a bit cool and damp. A foray, that eventually led to other things.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 10, 2012 - 02:10am PT
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Did you guys climb it going inside or outside the chockstones Anders? I think it is very 5.6 inside and so not 5.6 outside.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 10, 2012 - 02:12am PT
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Hey all, I never said anything about anyone in this thread. I got what I needed out of the other one and that was that. I put up some pictures here, thanked Fish for having my back, fini.
Eric - For making it sound like you are so eager to be done with me, you sure are making an effort in continuing to call me out.
Also, I would appreciate if you kept personal things about me to a minimum.
Not that I have anything to hide, but you've already posted my name and multiple pictures of me - I don't know where the line is drawn, but the phrase 'invasion of privacy' comes to mind.
Edit: I hadn't seen that picture before, but damn I look good ;)
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 10, 2012 - 02:13am PT
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At Relic, Tami and MH - I tried the Slit sometime last November I think, inside the chockstone. Made it up to the top of the chimney, couldn't figure out where to go from there, so climbed back down.....
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 10, 2012 - 02:16am PT
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We had to push the chockstones out of the way. Len played (US) football for UBC, and is a big, strong guy.
Not the best name, for what is actually quite a nice climb. Oh well, there are worse route names. And maybe it keeps away the religitards.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 10, 2012 - 02:29am PT
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We first did it in February 1974. A sunny day, but it was a bit cool and damp. A foray, that eventually led to other things.
That, taken out of context, is a pretty funny comment. Deserves a thread all its own, it does. And Tami could talk about insertions.
And you could all take your petty squabbles to that thread and leave this one for Squamish photos and stories...
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 10, 2012 - 02:44am PT
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I got on both of these chimneys pictured in the upper left the other afternoom, also very fun chim chims.
-the big one that starts at the bottom was fun stemming for the first half and bush wacky for the second half...
I then proceeded to Tr the left Chimney looking thing but it turns out its more of an offwidth, there aint no gettin in side that thing.. But the was a few rather enjoyable steep finger locks to get there!
And finally the most eastern of the pennylane chimney quartet:
Relic; I find the slit to be rather painful near the chock stone, but quite pleasant but exposed on the outside.
Any body know who bootied the BD #3 that was left there last summer, it disappeared over the winter..
On the topic of wideness and chockstones would any one have a pic of YPLS that they would like to share?
Edit; Ghost I think that photo of Blazing Saddles has already appeared in this thread..
Also that Bearphucker line was a quote from super troopers.. so dont get your panties twisted
And for any one who cares to watch a little video of yours truely along with my interior accomplice Sean Barrett shredding powder with out bindings and drinking excessively head over too http://vimeo.com/35877953
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 10, 2012 - 03:35am PT
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I'm with Ghost here, MH. Let's hear more about those "other things" please. We're all adults--at least on this thread!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2012 - 05:02am PT
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Wow... busy night :)
While i've appreciated the bump, and the laughs, it seems we are getting back to the point of things.. Which is good.
Eric- I am more than willing to give people a shot, but am also wary and can certainly decide for myself who I want to trust.
Nice pics.. The first one looks like my favorite little 3 move 10b at Pixie corner, White Rabbit? The second is Kangaroo non?
Ghost- It's funny that you posted that Blazing Saddles pic again. Eric was the one I climbed it with last summer.
Luke- Nice pics! Gonna have to come hit those up next time! Nice moderation attempt :) Although I think Relic accomplished more with his excellent change the subject tactic :)
Hamie,MH,MH2,Tami,Jim Brennan,Bruce K,bmacd,klk,Oplopanax,gf,Chief and other Squamish vets, thanks for being here it's amazing to have your input.
I have one picture for you tonight of a character of interest around here as of late...
Bearbreeder at Penny Lane crag
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 10, 2012 - 09:31am PT
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...and do my best to have a good time and bring my partners home back safely with happi endings
I hope your interpretation of a happi ending is different then the fine little asian ladies down in north van!
hahaha!
This is for anders, a good old match of guess that mountain; south coast inland style; what peak is in the back round...
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 10, 2012 - 12:08pm PT
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Luke, fun video..... looks like a good time. I also got the bear phucker line - good movie :D
Here's a shot of my buddy and I at the top of Grouse mid december. The bipod is me.
If anyone wants to go up the mountain, or a mountain, let me know!
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 10, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
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And here are a couple more of me...... Not my pictures.
Holy crap runout!
Ain't no messin with my hands free stance.
Route may be easier than it appears.....
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 10, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
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the funny thing is i was actually gonna restrict you from amswering BK, i know its an easy one for ya.. But are you sure thats joffre peak on the backround or is iit matier? Man i donr feel like such a loser no being the only one who checks the forum before 930
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 10, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
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Matier 5 days ago...anni glacier was the bomb, Matier firm...looks like Joffre to me, not that I'd know. Aussie Couloir on Monday, who's keen?!?!
Aussie Couloir
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 10, 2012 - 03:11pm PT
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Ooooooh I wish.....
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 10, 2012 - 03:36pm PT
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my hips are tired just lookin at that couloir haha
are you availble end of nextweek for a wall fish, you supply the ledge ill bring tha cronic :)
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 10, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
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Dude I am working on the island until half way through the following week. From the 24th I should be good to go...super keen to get up there.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 10, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
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Wow thanks elcapinyourarse for that video of the Shadow. It's definitely one of the most inspiring lines here. Awesome to watch full meal deal footage of it.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Feb 10, 2012 - 05:19pm PT
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spent a great week in Whistler last week. sure it wasn't blower pow but great alpine skiing conditions. the aussie coolie had some wet slide action on Sunday. we toured out to Joffre lakes one day and out lazy boy area on Cayoosh on Monday.
driving past squamish on Tuesday got the climbing jones going again. gotta come back up for climbing and mountain biking. there were a few folks on the rock on that last sunny day.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 10, 2012 - 09:23pm PT
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OH MAN that vidya was kick ass! although the camera doesnt portray how overhanging the lower section is... cant wait to get on it, C2 BABY!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 11, 2012 - 01:57am PT
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Kid
Once again your every wish is my command.
I think that Bruce is trying to yank your chain [or more likely mine] when he says that YPLS has been fully bolted. No way. However he did add a single protection bolt and a bolted station last year, to this 46 year old trad/gear route, without asking permission from the FAists. After several requests by both FAists to remove the single bolt, he agreed to do so, but to my knowledge has not. If you head up there please take a wrench and a hammer, and chop the protection bolt. Also please review the bolted station, and chop that too if it is just there for convenience, not necessity. You can tell from the angle of her arm that Mave has finished the squeeze section, and is now cruising the phat. Today this [3rd]pitch is rated 10b, although we gave it a solid 5.8 Good times indeed.
H.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 11, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
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100% not Squamish
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 11, 2012 - 12:55pm PT
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Hamish you have a serious archive of photos dont you! One a day please :D..
I'm still extremely intrigued in the other hamishs (HF) legendary solo of Uwall, allegedly he reached the dance platform in one day; did you guys leave a ladder of pins, or did he hammer his own? Any information on the logistics of the solo in question would be way cool..
Bruce you are most certainly a sh#t disturber.. On a serious note I'm keen to come remove your convenience bolt if you havent kept up your end of the bargain yet..
Heres a Kieran Brownie photo of me soloing;
This is Kierans first time rope access photoging, I love this photo so much!
http://browniephoto.com/blog/
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 11, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
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On a completely separate topic, but relative to those in the area, anyone going to Grouse for the 24 hour thing tonight? PARTY!!!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Feb 11, 2012 - 05:07pm PT
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I'm still extremely intrigued in the other hamishs (HF) legendary solo of Uwall, allegedly he reached the dance platform in one day; did you guys leave a ladder of pins, or did he hammer his own? Any information on the logistics of the solo in question would be way cool..
Yes, amazing solo. The first ascent party didn't leave a ladder of pins - they were cheap guys. The only pitons they left were a very few that they couldn't remove.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 11, 2012 - 07:36pm PT
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Triconi or hamie would any of you have any pictures of the FA of Uwall?
Nate dogg; unfortunately i have a dislocated rib right now and will not be making it to the grouse allnighter this year:(. I went the first year they held it and it was unprecedented. Wicked good time!
A pic a day please mr mutch :)
EDIT; Mutch*
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 11, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
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Bruce
Aarrgghh me hearty. Layback? In your wildest fantasies..... But take heart, there's no need to grovel-IF IF IF you have good technique. Then it's a very sensual experience. That's not a compressor up there, it's a mini-fridge which we left for the convenience of others. Where's Jason Kruk when he's needed?
+3 in town, -3 at the hill. There's a good base, but unfortunately we have had a long dry spell. Not the world famous, knee-deep champagne face-shots-all-day pow which we're accustomed to.
Kid
Lots of pix of U Wall etc, but if I post them all here, then there will be no need to buy Anders' book later. Ha ha.
Cheers.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 11, 2012 - 10:16pm PT
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So you're telling me he led and cleaned AND HAULED everypitch on mainly hand placed gear, to the danceplatform, in a day. Extraordinarily Bold, not to mention efficient. The definition of hardman!
Was he born in the pardoe hut or something, where and how did such a young chap learn such rock craft skills...
Its hard to imagine (for me anyways) having such a large cliff to play on at such a young age. Having grown up in the only rockless province, PEI, and not being introduce to rockclimbing (by Big Mike) until I was 19 years old.
Hamie I'm gonna buy Anders' book regardless if its just word for word of his 70's thread.. I know you got some throwaway photos.. YPLS looks tight and thats not even the squeeze part you say! What kind of camera were you packing around in the 60s?
How about a photo a week.:D
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 12, 2012 - 12:50am PT
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200% not Squamish
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 12, 2012 - 01:25am PT
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OK. I may delete this post later, but Jim B., I thought that was funny.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 12, 2012 - 01:31am PT
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500!
Speaking of which, does anyone ever do the Whistler 500 anymore? It's a very obscure roof crack just south of Whistler, just above the highway. It's pretty awful.
Bah tami you snaked me!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 12, 2012 - 02:05am PT
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Sorry - I'll try to get back to the origins and development of climbing in the Little Smoke Bluffs later. The "other things" I'm apparently supposed to know something about. Not starting with Satan's Slit, as it happens.
There are many interesting boulder problems in Murrin Park as well as a 70 ft cliff on the NW shore of Browning Lake called the Sugar Loaf, which is a favorite practise area. There are also many good problems to be found among the boulders at the base of the W wall of the Chief massif. The cliffs on the E side of the town of Squamish also make excellent practise grounds.
 Who said it, when?
What implications has it for later historiography?
(Sorry, tricouni and hamish not eligible to enter. And it's Mutch, not Multch. Sheesh! His photo of YPLS in 1965 is awesome!)
Edit: Nope, not RR.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 12, 2012 - 02:11am PT
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was it royal robbins, 1971?
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 12, 2012 - 01:32pm PT
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was it derek woolgar, in 1997?
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 12, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
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Eh sucks about the rib Luke..... I put my shoulder out halfway through the season two years ago and that ended the year for me..... not fun.
You didn't really miss anything though; the snow was nice and soft, but the weather left some to be desired. Snowing at the top of the run, raining halfway down, and clear at the bottom. Goggles couldn't be worn cause they were fogged to hell, but you got endless sh#t in the face riding without them.
When you climb next?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 12, 2012 - 05:27pm PT
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Jim when you get further up the coast north of Powell River there's no real soil, just moss a couple of feet deep growing on the rock with trees growing out of it. When there's a landslide the whole thing rolls up like a magic carpet and exposes the bare granite. Talk about wax jobs, I've seen cleaned strips 100m wide and 800m high all starting from one little windthrown root wad. Scrubbing the f*ck out of Crap Crags had nothing on that.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 13, 2012 - 01:17am PT
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MH
Thanks for the name correction.
Nails
We weren't THAT cheap. We DID leave the hangers.
Tami
Good luck. Nervous?
Kid
I had to smile at the Mr. part of your Mr. Multch. It's usually hard to get any respect around here.....
That reminded me of a day at the Banff Film Fest, a while ago. During one intermission someone approached me and asked, "Do you have the time please, sir?" Sir????? That really hurt. Later the same day they showed a short film about something in the Valley. During that intermission I overheard several people discussing whether Yosemite was in California, or in Colorado. That hurt too, but in a different way.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Feb 13, 2012 - 01:50am PT
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Nails
We weren't THAT cheap. We DID leave the hangers.
True, but we only used 9 of the things, mostly for belays, if I remember correctly.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 13, 2012 - 02:05am PT
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Having successfully slipped under the radar tonight, I can now report that Tami's audience is gathering supplies as we speak.
Tami's guess as to the origin of the quote is closest so far. You'd think documentary evidence as to the origins of climbing at Squamish would get a little more attention.
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bmacd
Mountain climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 13, 2012 - 03:16am PT
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After the Kruk / Kennedy show I'm organizing a beat down in the parking lot for the cry baby Italians, just me vs all of them, no problemo
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hamish f
climber
squamish
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Feb 13, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
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I've never messed around with writing in but always enjoy reading all the squamish stuff. Just to set the story straight, I did solo U wall; pretty junior-aged, 14 or 15. I didn't take a hammer or pins; to make sure I'd climb it clean. Seemed like a big deal then; chocks and friends were all the rage. Not wailing ever-larger holes in the rock was pretty hip too. I wish I'd made it to dance platform in a day but not so much. I bivied on the ledge (and in a crummy hammock) at the base of the second to last pitch. Thanks to everyone that writes in friendly stories which I was a part of. That was, and still is, a great group of people; and all that granite made for some meaningful friendships all around.
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hamish f
climber
squamish
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Feb 13, 2012 - 10:08pm PT
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O.k., had another beer so I'll fill in some of the blanks of that day on U-wall. Just a quick (funny) story regarding the approach. I was staying at Joe's house on no-name rd. so figured I'd better get up pretty early as I was walking to the chief. What with being completely broke and a year or two off a driver's license, walking was the mode. So I head out at around 3 a.m. to allow lots of time to walk to the chief. I'm out there, walking down the very quiet hwy., holding my thumb up to any car that happenned to pass. No one ever stopped. Finally a car pulled over but it was an rcmp. I had all my gear in a canvas mail bag, slung over my shoulder, so the cop figured I was running away from home. I had to open up my bag and show him the gear to get him to believe me. He did, and promptly drove me right to the base. I didn't own a headlight or anything remotely connected to dark trail-hiking, so I had to sit on the old road for a long time to wait for light to arrive. Never-a-dull-moment.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 13, 2012 - 10:13pm PT
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Wow, I'm extremely honoured read your response Mr. Fraser! Your boldness and determination is certainly admirable, to this day and beyond. I got on the first pitch of Uwall the day after I got my first etrier and it took 4 hours to lead and clean the first pitch... 1 day or 2 you still must have been charging that shit!
Its pretty amazing how gnarly you guys(and gals) got back in the day, many climbers are still striving to ascend lines you pioneers were doing 30+ years ago.
Compared to say skateboarding where the average skateboarder today is significantly better than the average of 30-40 years ago.
Quite the high benchmark y'all have set.
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MH2
climber
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Feb 13, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
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Alright!
A good day for Supertopo!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 14, 2012 - 03:14am PT
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Hah Jim, good thing you didn't live at something like 123 No Name Road, that woulda got you cuffed for sure.
Classic story Hamish, hope to hear more.
Hey Tami, a Fungus Razor?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 14, 2012 - 12:53pm PT
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Welcome, Hamish! (How are we going to tell them apart?)
Maybe we should have a HH (Happy Hour) before, during or after Tami's performance on Thursday. The Eldo prancers will be very jealous.
The quote about 20 posts back is from Jim Baldwin's guide to the Chief and area, written IIRC in 1963. The first guide to the Chief.
- There are also many good problems to be found among the boulders at the base of the W wall of the Chief massif.
The start of bouldering at Squamish, in 1962 or so. Including what later got called the Black Dyke boulder.
- The cliffs on the E side of the town of Squamish also make excellent practise grounds.
Sounds an awful lot like the Little Smoke Bluffs, doesn't it? But climbing wasn't supposed to have started there until 1973, on Alexis. Mysteriouser and mysteriouser - perhaps hamie or tricouni could comment.
And then there's the mystery of when rock climbing as such, on the cliffs we now think of as Squamish, actually started. The official date of the first technical route was South Gully, in 1957. But there is more than a little circumstantial evidence suggesting an earlier date, even if it led to no conclusive result, and wasn't recorded or remembered.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 14, 2012 - 03:42pm PT
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Noooooo I'm not a cow Tami. The kid blurted our my name a few posts back as a silly guess to Anders's riddle.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 14, 2012 - 04:09pm PT
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Oh ok, I was just perusing Malemute routes, getting psyched to do some. I always guesstimated that that name was referencing one of your cheesy bearded cohorts.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
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Hamish F- Welcome indeed! Thank you for expanding on the U-Wall legend, as always the real tale is much more interesting than the fable. I hope to hear more tales of your adventures if you are interested to share them.
Bmacd- Thanks for the heads up, I look forward to hearing Tami speak and meeting those in attendance on Thursday night. Sounds like it's gonna be fun.
kid- I wish I would have known climbers earlier in life myself, and I grew up in BC but didn't start climbing till I was 22..
Oplopanax- You are intriguing me with your pictures.. Would love to come check it out for myself one day..
Hamie- I would be interested in checking out the "Convenience bolt" with the kid when things dry up... Maybe I might even get a few photos of YPLS while i'm at it.
Tami- Just in case you missed it the first time, here is a pic of Relic for you.
D
See ya Thursday night!
I got a couple new shots last weekend when I went to Big White with my beautiful girlfriend and my sister. They have a 60 foot ice tower there designed and run by Jim Ongena.
Big White Ice Tower
Me low on the tower
Sandra Topolay photo.
My beautiful girlfriend swinging
I never expected this thing to top 500 posts. Nice work people!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 15, 2012 - 11:48pm PT
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my fave Hamish Fraser quote is the one from Gripped? some climbing mag, anyway... wherein he talks about the time (days) it takes to whore yourself out at a tradeshow to potential sponsors in hope of a free rope or pair of shoes vs. the time it takes (hours) to work at a good paying job to buy the same things :)
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 16, 2012 - 12:05am PT
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MH
I never heard Jim B nor anyone else ever mention bouldering, let alone engage in anything remotely similar. It is perhaps significant that the paragraph on bouldering is the last one in his guide. He may have added it as an afterthought. Perhaps he meant "There are many 'potential' problems to be found...." He would have been well aware of the small amount of bouldering which was practiced in Camp 4 at that time.
Likewise I never heard anyone mention the possibility of climbing in the Bluffs. Less than a dozen climbers, including our American visitors, had the whole Chief to ourselves. We rarely ventured past the apron or the south gully. There was no incentive or necessity to seek out small crags and smaller boulders. I believe that it would be incorrect to say that bouldering, or interest in the Bluffs existed in 1962, or even in 1967.
HM
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2012 - 01:04am PT
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Luke and Ais
Where?
Story later....
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MH2
climber
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Feb 16, 2012 - 01:09am PT
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Topout of those hard cracks right of Squamish Buttress 10c pitch?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 16, 2012 - 02:03am PT
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Perhaps Jim B noticed that there were promising appearing bluffs across from what was then downtown Squamish, and noticed that there were boulders scattered around under the Grand Wall, and projected possibilities. Although Big Jim says he did scramble on (probably) the Black Dyke boulder. And it was somewhat prescient of Jim to think that way.
I'm not sure what development there was on Bughouse Heights/Hospital Hill/South Ridge, or indeed on the east side of the highway, in 1962. Not much, probably. (Valleycliffe apparently was originally Skunk Hollow.)
My guess is that the photo is from the new crags about 40 km up the Squamish Valley. Does look a bit like the top of the buttress, but seems too broken and featured.
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hamish f
climber
squamish
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Feb 16, 2012 - 10:49am PT
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I would think these guys are sitting on top of heatwave. Not wanting to beat my chest too hard but that is a great pitch. True story there is Chris Wild spent a long time scrubbing that pitch into perfection, but couldn't quite lead it. I ran into him one day in Sqaumish and he told me about his beautiful, clean, long, should be a classic, route. He said to have at er. We did, and it was stellar. But it was Chris who should get the credit as he probably got some tendonitis from doing such a great scrub job. It seems to me Squamish has done very well from Chris's hard labour over the years; with hard-fought routes everywhere. Everyone should buy that man some beer.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2012 - 02:59pm PT
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Mh2 had it but Hamish F nails it for the win!
I have myself have experienced what a difference Kris has made to Squamish. I climbed Calculus crack sometime before he cleaned it, and remember there being *a lot* of dirt and moss back then.
Not to mention the new starts, which were still hidden in those days.
Kris, if I ever see you at the bar I will gladly buy you a pint or two...
What's your new 5.11 called again?
Ok.. I promised a story for that photo...
That was an early June day last year. The Canucks were still in the playoffs and me and Kyle and Nina thought we could do a three person ascent of the buttress with my half ropes, and still catch the game. On a weekend.
In truth, Aislinn should have been with us that day to make two parties, but I mistakenly thought she was going with Luke.
We got to the Apron parking lot late, and talked to big Jim for awhile before we got going.
We decided to Trimul Bananna Peel to save time, but stopped at the ledge above the crux to offer Nina a quick belay.
As we passed a party at the water solution pockets, the belayer asks me "What happens if you guys fall and you aren't connected to anything?". To which I replied "We allways try and make sure we have at least a couple pieces in between us". She looks up and says "Are you sure about that?".
I glanced up at Kyle, who was running it out to pass their leader, quickly slung a tree and called up, "Hey Kyle can you please put a piece in?".
After topping out the Apron things went pretty smooth until we hit a roadblock at the first pitch of the Buttress.. Three parties ahead of us with the roadblock being a party of three who were struggling with the one hard move on the first pitch.
I wish I had known about Relics variation that day! We decided to wait and one party in front of us bailed so things started moving along not bad. The party of three bailed left to the buttface at the boulder, and we were off to the base of the buttress pitch.
When I arrived to the base of the headwall, there was a girl flailing to make it to the piton on the 10c pitch. I set up anchor and brought everyone up. Nina and Kyle arrived just in time witness the leader take a 20 foot whipper at which point she decided to lower and have her partner finish the pitch.
We heard a yell emerge from above and looked up to see Luke and Aislinn sitting at the Heatwave anchor waiting for us.. Luke had climbed the Buttress with a different partner and Ais hiked up there to meet him. They must have sat up there for a couple hours at least.
Meanwhile the other team had made it back to their highpoint and this girl is flailing at the top too. She mentions something about "The guidebook says it's 5.9 if you aid the pin". "What guidebook have you been reading?" I replied?
Eventually she flails up it and Squamish cheered! It was as if they could see her, but we knew it meant that we had missed the hockey game.
When we finally got on the 10c pitch I managed to climb clean to just below the piton, but whipped as I lost my footing, and scrapped to the anchor in decent time. Kyle followed and then we threw his rope down to Nina so she could have both half's for her toprope.
We got to the top and had a quick saftey meeting with Luke and Ais, then headed down before things got dark.
BTW Thank you Sonnie for your Buttface variation. If not for your efforts that party of three would have been in front of us too!!
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bmacd
Mountain climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 16, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
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This would be a good time to let you guys know gf and I scooped a new line last fall that joins U-Wall at the tree. It went at a remarkably reasonable 5.12b
We were extremely pleased that the current generation local fly-boys have been asleep at the wheel on this one.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 16, 2012 - 03:38pm PT
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Luckily Jim Baldwin and I did not have to fight any crowds or line-ups on the 2nd ascent.
Here's today's quiz. Who wrote this, and what were he/she describing?
"The rock is often poor, the cliffs covered with bushes, and the cracks filled with dirt and moss; blank areas will require bolts."
MH and Nails are welcome to respond.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 16, 2012 - 03:55pm PT
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Cool looking line BMACD, does it start of the escape flake? I look forward to giving it a go. Any Rack recommendations?
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bmacd
Mountain climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 16, 2012 - 04:05pm PT
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We want everyone to stay off it till we retro-bolt in stations and protection, it's presently extremely unsafe to go up there as we we forced to do a lot of simul-climbing once we committed to the face climbing on the pillar from the last natural belay stance. No protection, no belays.
"Do Not Attempt to Repeat this route until further notice"
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 16, 2012 - 04:10pm PT
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Bruce
When I first looked at your post, about 5 minutes ago, it was rated at 11b. It is now shown as 12b. That is a very rapid grade inflation--even for Squamish!! Remarkably reasonable indeed. The Pillar of Perfidy more likely.
Cheers, H.
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bmacd
Mountain climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 16, 2012 - 04:14pm PT
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Hamie, the bad news is we broke most of the major holds on the first ascent, due to the friable nature of the flakes which comprise the face climbing. It's likely the second ascent party will encounter 5.13 - 5.14 difficulties.
I didn't want to sandbag anyone too badly, hence the grade inflation.
Presently we are sponsored by
United Rentals
38921 Queens Way, Squamish, BC V8B 0K9
(604) 892-9006 or (604) 892-9004 (Fax)
to go back this summer in 2012, and with the use of one of their comprressor drills, to retro bolt the route, and in doing so, provide indisputable proof, to everyone, we did the first ascent in 2011.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 16, 2012 - 04:31pm PT
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Everyone should buy that man some beer.
Kris, if I ever see you at the bar I will gladly buy you a pint or two...
What's your new 5.11 called again?
Hot damn!I like the sound of that!
Are you referring to the route to the left of the Upper Black Dyke? If so, it's called Grand Finale. 5p, 5.11a
Hamish, thanks for the kind words. Remember the alternate name, Uncle Hamish's Wild Ride , after I mistook you for Val's uncle at the rec center! Ha!!
For those of you who are keen, I'm looking to (possibly with help) re-buff those three routes again this spring, then stash a rope in a dry bag up there so we can charge up there after work and run laps with a soloist. I've got a long way to go before any laps will be charged, but if the rope is there... The routes are Heatwave, Gemini, and Progress Can't Wait for those unfamiliar with the spot.
This would be a good time to let you guys know gf and I scooped a new line last fall that joins U-Wall at the tree. It went at a remarkably reasonable 5.11b
WTF?!?!?! Seriously?!?!? Wow, talk about the unplucked gem. I haven't heard about that one.
EDIT Hmmmm.... United Rentals is out of business, and there is nothing but blankness over there. Not even April 1
KW
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hamish f
climber
squamish
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Feb 16, 2012 - 05:29pm PT
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Ya... lucky for me Val still looks 27. We were at Kal tire getting her winter tires put on once and the guy told her to tell her dad to come by later to pick up the summer tires. Ooops.
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bmacd
Mountain climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 16, 2012 - 05:44pm PT
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there is nothing but blankness over there.
Lower Pillar of Symmetry beta - Pitch 1 & 2:
Climb mossy cracks and slab with good pro at base of the pillar overlap. Follow slab/arch left to where weakness is breaking right to dyke. Now a Left facing groove allows movement back left to discontinuous face holds which gain arete at a large ledge with good natural gear for belay on the left side of the Pillar. Climb crack from ledge to undercling position and reach to high to gain face holds right of arete and using the very positive feeling arete edge on your left, establish one handed layback and then ascend this slightly off vertical feature to another very good stance at the base of a scoop, in the top left of the photo, which presents you with the crux pitch.
Pitches 3, 4 & 5:
From the base of the scoop, begins the hardest face climbing of the route, which is probably now, slightly harder than the face climbing on Grandwall. Stay on the right side of this highly featured groove which forms the pillars buttress. Climb under the mini humpty dumpty block on right before starting traverse to join the slabby crack protected catwalk. At the end of catwalk move left to surmount difficult face climbing which turns the corner into U-Wall at the tree.
Click to enlarge.
There are plenty of face holds on the pillar, you just can't see them when you are standing in the parking lot looking up. Take your bolt kit, as we left no traces of passage.
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hamish f
climber
squamish
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Feb 16, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
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Ya, maybe we'll talk to the powers that be and change that name back. Heatwave was always a little sucky for such a cool pitch.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 16, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
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Hot damn!I like the sound of that!
Well, if you like free beer, and you like scrubbing, just come down to Seattle for a visit. We'll provide the beer, and lead you to the scrubbing.
When I moved down here I was worried about how I'd feed the scrubbing jones I'd developed over twenty years at Squamish. Little did I realize the extent of moss and dirt and tree roots that would be available to me here.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 16, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
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Are you suggesting that we should pour cold water on it? That's probably more typical of Squamish anyway.
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hamish f
climber
squamish
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Feb 16, 2012 - 09:03pm PT
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Now I'm rolling with this supertopo stuff; I'll thoroughly embarass myself all in a couple weeks. Surely, Anders, you know exactly where that old photo is taken? Start of the tough pitch.
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MH2
climber
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Feb 16, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
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we can charge up there after work and run laps with a soloist
Thank you, thank you for attempting to normalize such dubious style. It is exactly what I was thinking. What sort of beer do you favor?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 16, 2012 - 10:50pm PT
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Mighty
HF is correct. Jim is starting the final headwall section. He is still below the little pedestal. This is where Big Mike got cluster-fooked on the w/e. Sorry I assumed, wrongly as usual, that everyone would recognize those twin cracks.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 17, 2012 - 01:57am PT
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Bmacd, stop. Put away your blow socks, it's only a fib.
That would be quite the epic line though.
Hamish F. It would be cool to hear the story of Genus Loci. Thar is a sick line. The lower slabs make me want to cry cuz I'm scared.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 17, 2012 - 02:06am PT
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For those of you who are keen, I'm looking to (possibly with help) re-buff those three routes again this spring
I was planning on giving at least one of them a bit of a scrub at some point this spring for the point of top rope soloing it..... Nice to know I'm not the only one. Let me know when you plan on doing it, and I'll see if I can make it up and lend a hand.
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bmacd
Mountain climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 17, 2012 - 04:13am PT
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Wall of Attrition is really good ...
Also the crack systems on the Drifters headwall are prime targets yet to bag the second ascent. I remember Robin working on Ghost Dancing. Symmetry Pillar does need a bolt ladder to be established. Still some fine pieces of art left on the Chief everywhere. Lots of potential in that U-Wall area for the current local talent.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 17, 2012 - 08:58am PT
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I heard that Wall of Attrition was called Wall of Nutrition by some people due to the oatmeal like consistency of the rock...... That might have been posted on Squamish Climbing actually.
And Relic, the three routes being referred to are those .12- cracks up to the right of the Buttress crux pitch.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 17, 2012 - 10:09am PT
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I have not done the upper pitches of Wall of Attrition, only the lower part including the long corner system. Back in around '96 I think, we did it pulling on the pins style. I don't think that lower pitch was freed back then. The memorable pitch for sure was that long corner with the undercling finish. I've read horror stories about the upper pitches, but maybe they just need some vigorous scouring?
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hamish f
climber
squamish
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Feb 17, 2012 - 10:35am PT
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I would like to type in a genus-loci story but that route is 5 pitches and we were (of course) bolting on lead. We did rap the majority of the pitches to scrub them but this seemed unavoidable. We wanted the big adventure, John Bachar-style. Needless to say, all those guys like Gordie Smail, Niel Bennet, etc. had put up the Squamish test pieces in ethical style; out there bolting on lead in their Robbins boots. There's no way we ever would have done anything to belittle their amazing efforts. Of course it felt a little like cheating to be hanging there scrubbing. Usually we'd be in our runners and we'd make an effort NOT to be working out the moves in any way. Unfortunately the moss and lichen weren't coming off on their own. In fact, on two of the pitches (that's 40%), we went a different way (than we had scrubbed), once we were actually out there, leading and being terrified. The final pitch was as good as it gets... no rapping, no scrubbing, first try; nice, clean granite. So that route took a lot of effort and I'd have a tough time keeping it short. I really don't want to bore anyone to death or make them wish I never wrote into supertopo. Maybe a compromise; I could write a little story about one of the pitches and see how that goes over. If everyone yawns and starts checking when the next Canucks game is, we'll call it good. How's that sound?
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Feb 17, 2012 - 10:57am PT
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BRING IT!!
These kind of stories are what I enjoy most about this place!
The historical threads are great.
As for "Wall of Nutrition", I always called it that, didn't know why... thought I made it up! I have reccommended this route to many, minus the Upper Pitches. It's a great outing, in a cool place. The 11 + bit is short and well protected. Bet it's a candidate for a retro fit, that route. (B anchors).
Cheers!
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MH2
climber
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Feb 17, 2012 - 12:50pm PT
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I for one am super-interested in the story of Genius Loci. Catalan and I only knew it as a route in the guide and a picture of gf on p4 in Canadian Geographic back when it took the piss out of us. It was a very good feeling, though.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 17, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
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Go for it Hamish. Almost everyone here likes to hear FA stories like those.
As for the name Heatwave, It came from an uncharacteristically long bout of dry weather that summer. I was barely working and remember waking up to day after day of bluebird skies and 25-30 degree celcius temps. (that's hot for you yanks) I think there was about six and a half weeks without precip between mid July and the end of August. We don't usually have to take rest days because of being climbed out, the weather usually just supplies plenty of them. I have a funny note in an old logbook remarking on how after ten straight days of climbing I just had to take a break because strange things were beginning to hurt.
That's when I scrubbed that line, got my ass handed to me on it, then gave it to Hamish, who climbed it with GF and others the following week. The night after giving it my best shot, I awoke in agony to both forearms cramping simultaneously. Curl your fingertips down to your wrists until it cramps for a fun experiment. It was the only time I've ever had that happen.
They were so excited about it that Hamish went back with the Gambler (John Rosholt) and scrubbed the other two lines. I believe the attempted use of a wire wheel in a cordless drill led to the name Progress Can't Wait. Gemini was in remark to the beautiful twin cracks on the right which you had to switch between half way up.
Progress Can't Wait is the crack branching off from the Buttress crux pitch 15' up. It's the one just to the left of the dead tree in the photo. Heatwave is the next one to the right with the person sitting at the top. The thin crack in between would be VERY hard, if possible at all. The top of the two Gemini cracks are just visible to the right. It starts on the right one, and finishes on the left one.
Well, if you like free beer, and you like scrubbing, just come down to Seattle for a visit. We'll provide the beer, and lead you to the scrubbing.
Thanks for the offer, but I've got my hands full with the jungle up here!
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MH2
climber
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Feb 17, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
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Another story of Progress Can't Wait is that during the scrubbing the queue at the base of the 10c complained about bits of lichen and all coming down on their heads, and John Rosholt replied, "Progress can't wait."
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 17, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
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A group of us went for a beer after Tami's presentation at VIMFF last night. Jim Brennan, gf, bmacd, MH, tami, Tami's husband and daughter, and Big Mike and wife. Big Mike is indeed big - as in, well over 2 m tall, or about 6'7" in American. The kid cormier was at the show, but couldn't go out afterward.
Photo later, perhaps.
And, speaking of new lines, not long ago we did the outside edge of the Split Pillar. An intriguing, balancy layaway climb. As with the gritstone edges, protected by gear in the cracks to each side, with double ropes. So there's no bolts or anything.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 17, 2012 - 05:27pm PT
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Another vote for a GL series of posts.
This ^^^
Also, wish I could have made it up the the party last night, but had to work fairly early this morning, and it just wouldn't have been reasonable. Was it good? I hope to make it out to the final night tomorrow.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 17, 2012 - 08:31pm PT
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Ah crap. I'm sorry I missed Tami's show. I totally spaced on it. I'm downtown so there's no real excuse except blaming Big Mike for not reminding me! I like beer too. Damn.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
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Relic- Damn buddy I shoulda sent you a PM! Sorry guess I spaced that one. Although I did make mention that I would be attending well in advance :)
Last night was super fun indeed. The presentations were excellent with Tami's being extra funny.
Afterwards I attended the first Squamish Ethics and Morals committee to be held at the Sylvia Hotel. A wide variety of Ethical and Moral dilemmas were discussed over many pints. Then a mysterious philantropist covered the bill 7g8f?. (Many thanks BTW)
It was certainly nice to meet you guys!
I wish I could make it down for tomorrow nights show, but alas powder priorities prevail.
Hamish f- I bet you couldn't write any more boring stories then my mundane ones... In fact I'm pretty sure based on what you've written so far that they would be pretty epic and well worth the read.
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hamish f
climber
squamish
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Feb 17, 2012 - 10:23pm PT
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O.k.,hope this isn't too long. Sorrry if that's the case. The first pitch of genus-loci took 7 bolts and 11 attempts. Some days were pretty disheartening as we couldn't make it to the bolt wed'd drilled the day before. It was Peder and I working on this pitch and the Bear was in his element; less than vertical and keep your weight on your feet. I think he took the first try and managed to fire in the first two bolts without too much hassle. His arms were bigger than the drill, so he didn't have too much trouble operating it above his head. I remember getting pretty flustered trying to gain some decent stance to drill the third or fourth bolt Nothing much for your feet there but a nice diagonal rail for your fingers. I got a hook to stick, but only for a pull at 4 or 5 o'clock. Pull straight down and the hook just falls off. I wrestled a couple slings onto the hook and put my foot in it. Out I'd stem, sort of, right foot in the sling, left foot on the face, hold on to that rail with the left hand, and start hauling/drilling that bolt with the right. Not too bad. Completely thrashed from that bolt placement, we left for the day. I'm pretty sure the next time we tried, neither of us could even get back to that bolt. Days later we were back for more thrills. Peder climbs right up there and is just cruising. We can both see an obvious ledge, of sorts, coming up and we've convinced ourselves we'll be standing on that perch drilling the next bolt. Unfortunately it's a ways up a faint corner to get there. The Bear starts making his way up, climbing as well as ever, pretty run out but he's holding it together like a champ. Oh yah, this is what we came for. Suddenly he stops and contempltes his position. "too runout, downclimbing!", he said, cool but concerned. Oh man, I'm thinking this is not looking very good at all. It's going to be Bears in space and it's looking like at least 30 or 40 feet. I'm looking at my belay and thinking how rough this could be and somehow he pulls it off. He downclimbed to the previous bolt and lowered off. I figure if he could downclimb that then I could. I went up, lucked out and got right up to Peder's spot. Then I got pretty scared and thought about downclimbing, but didn't think I could pull it off. I set my sights on that little perch and plowed up there. By the time I mantled up onto that hold, it was feeling quite runout. I hauled the drill and hammer up and managed to sink that lovely little 3/8 in there. Phew. The next bolt I got to hang off a nice size left hand hold and even have a couple of crappy cams or r.p.s in behind. If I'd actually weighted those pieces, I was pretty sure they'd just rip out. A little higher it blanked out except for one little nub coming out of the rock. I could see it but boy, was it up there a ways. Will Stanhope, where were you? I suppose 21 years ago Will wasn't very tall iether. I recall being on some fair holds and launching up the slab for that little nub. I missed it and took a lengthy fall. That was it for another day. I'm quite sure our next attempt ended poorly; couldn't even get to our high point. Oh well, good things take time and we were convinced this would be a classic. I guess it's not a classic (as it turns out) but we sure got our money's worth. Our next time hiking up I remember thinking it was a waste of time taking a haul line up with me on my first go. As if I was making it all the way back up to the sixth bolt. We talked and figured I may as well go prepared, just in case. I led on double ropes, both clipped through each draw. This way if I actually made it, I could potentially pull one of them through all the clips and drop it down for Peder to tie on the drill and hammer. Meanwhile, he has me on belay on the other rope, still through all the clips. Oh yah, we always had a plan. To both our surprise and shock, I made it, first try, right back up there. I couldn't believe it, here I was, back up at this massive reach, a little runout. Crazy, but typing this in, my hands are sweating, 21 years later. Things got a little tense for a bit. Anyway, I gave it everything I had and launched for that little nub. Got it! Damn, I got it! I quickly mantled up on it before soaking in the distance to the last bolt. Now I'm standing all on my right foot, because that's about it for holds, and my leg is shaking. Oh mumma, the thought of standing on the right toe and pulling one rope through all those clips, getting the Bear the end, hauling that crap all the way up there, then keeping it together to actually drill the bolt, was overwhelming. I'll see if I can make my sentences shorter on the next stream of consciousness. :) I only had 10 or 15 feet till the belay ledge but that last bolt was so far beneath me. I remember thinking if I didn't get a bolt in there, no one would ever do the route. Then I recall thinking what a massive fall it would be if I blew it. I'm just balanced there, on that right toe, and it's shaking; of course. Like our 8 yr old son said the other day...AWKWARD! I guess this was more of what we came for. The Bear took me off with the one rope, I pulled it all the way through those clips, he tied the drill and hammer on and away I hauled, teeth and hand. My poor leg just kept on shaking throughout the ordeal but somehow I managed to pull it off. Now that I clipped my good lead rope through the bolt, my leg mysteriously stopped shaking. Funny how that goes. I blasted the last 10 or 15 feet, which felt very easy, what with that bolt there. Huge relief for both of us. I really loved that about climbing, the mental burn combined with the physical challenge. I'm very sorry if that was too long; I'm completely new at this.
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Feb 17, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
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Driving by the Chief today, and spotted someone up on Wrist Twister, about five minutes from getting reealy wet! Was that one of you blokes?
Seriously, its good to see activity up there during the quiet months..
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 17, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
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Best post I've read on supertaco Hamish! Wow, total epic adventure getting that pitch established. Involuntary leg shakes of fear, I can imagine how hard that would be to hold your sheet together. Man o' man. It's amazing how you've remembered all the details so well. You must have not taken the brown acid.
Yes Genus Loci is a classic. Not a well travelled classic, it's a well respected and feared classic. Only a handful of climbers have the nuts to go for it. You and Peder were the cream of that small crop.
Saugy, yes that was thekidcormier up on Wrist Twister. He got half of it fixed before it started raining rhinos and llamas. Love the wet coast.
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Feb 17, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
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Damn! Give it up for the Kid!
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 17, 2012 - 11:32pm PT
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Hamish, that was great. I love reading about the history of Squamish - I've gone through Anders' thread two or three times.
Looks like it was a fun time last night, again wish I could have made it out. Relic - were you planning on going tomorrow? I live downtown as well and might make the trip over..... Still playing it by ear.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 17, 2012 - 11:34pm PT
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Hamish: Thanks for the Genius Loci story, including bear sighting. Sounds like a quite friendly one.
Everyone: See you at VIMFF Saturday PM. Be there or be slandered.
Sadly, they were en route to Whistler, and so couldn't make Tami's show. But there are hopes for a happy hour with them on Sunday PM, downtown.
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MH2
climber
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Feb 17, 2012 - 11:42pm PT
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Very intense, very interesting. Doesn't explain the missing hanger on the last bolt, except that maybe that one wasn't yours. I went a little too far left under the final small overlap before stepping up when leading and used the karma of a rap line from a party descending Merci Me p2 to haul my way up the last 10 feet. Much later when coming down from Merci Me p2 I top-roped the line and found a zig-zag in the overlap that made a good foothold and made the finish doable for me. The technical crux the second time seemed to be getting to and past the first bolt, maybe 'cuz lichen was coming back.
A memorable pitch for me, too. It took a lot of attention. I really like the story of putting it up and the way you wrote it. Many thanks.
And then comes p2.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 17, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
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Unfortunately I can't make it Saturday to the finale. It's moving day for me, actually moving night more like it.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
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O.k.,hope this isn't too long. Sorry if that's the case.
The first pitch of genus-loci took 7 bolts and 11 attempts. Some days were pretty disheartening as we couldn't make it to the bolt we’d drilled the day before.
It was Peder and I working on this pitch and the Bear was in his element; less than vertical and keep your weight on your feet. I think he took the first try and managed to fire in the first two bolts without too much hassle. His arms were bigger than the drill, so he didn't have too much trouble operating it above his head.
I remember getting pretty flustered trying to gain some decent stance to drill the third or fourth bolt Nothing much for your feet there but a nice diagonal rail for your fingers. I got a hook to stick, but only for a pull at 4 or 5 o'clock. Pull straight down and the hook just falls off.
I wrestled a couple slings onto the hook and put my foot in it. Out I'd stem, sort of, right foot in the sling, left foot on the face, hold on to that rail with the left hand, and start hauling/drilling that bolt with the right. Not too bad. Completely thrashed from that bolt placement, we left for the day.
I'm pretty sure the next time we tried, neither of us could even get back to that bolt. Days later we were back for more thrills. Peder climbs right up there and is just cruising. We can both see an obvious ledge, of sorts, coming up and we've convinced ourselves we'll be standing on that perch drilling the next bolt. Unfortunately it's a ways up a faint corner to get there. The Bear starts making his way up, climbing as well as ever, pretty run out but he's holding it together like a champ. Oh yah, this is what we came for.
Suddenly he stops and contemplates his position. "too runout, downclimbing!", he said, cool but concerned. Oh man, I'm thinking this is not looking very good at all. It's going to be Bears in space and it's looking like at least 30 or 40 feet. I'm looking at my belay and thinking how rough this could be and somehow he pulls it off. He downclimbed to the previous bolt and lowered off.
I figure if he could downclimb that then I could. I went up, lucked out and got right up to Peder's spot. Then I got pretty scared and thought about downclimbing, but didn't think I could pull it off. I set my sights on that little perch and plowed up there. By the time I mantled up onto that hold, it was feeling quite runout. I hauled the drill and hammer up and managed to sink that lovely little 3/8 in there. Phew.
The next bolt I got to hang off a nice size left hand hold and even have a couple of crappy cams or r.p.s in behind. If I'd actually weighted those pieces, I was pretty sure they'd just rip out. A little higher it blanked out except for one little nub coming out of the rock. I could see it but boy, was it up there a ways. Will Stanhope, where were you? I suppose 21 years ago Will wasn't very tall either. I recall being on some fair holds and launching up the slab for that little nub. I missed it and took a lengthy fall. That was it for another day.
I'm quite sure our next attempt ended poorly; couldn't even get to our high point. Oh well, good things take time and we were convinced this would be a classic. I guess it's not a classic (as it turns out) but we sure got our money's worth.
Our next time hiking up I remember thinking it was a waste of time taking a haul line up with me on my first go. As if I was making it all the way back up to the sixth bolt. We talked and figured I may as well go prepared, just in case.
I led on double ropes, both clipped through each draw. This way if I actually made it, I could potentially pull one of them through all the clips and drop it down for Peder to tie on the drill and hammer.
Meanwhile, he has me on belay on the other rope, still through all the clips. Oh yah, we always had a plan. To both our surprise and shock, I made it, first try, right back up there. I couldn't believe it, here I was, back up at this massive reach, a little runout. Crazy, but typing this in, my hands are sweating, 21 years later. Things got a little tense for a bit.
Anyway, I gave it everything I had and launched for that little nub. Got it! Damn, I got it! I quickly mantled up on it before soaking in the distance to the last bolt. Now I'm standing all on my right foot, because that's about it for holds, and my leg is shaking.
Oh mumma, the thought of standing on the right toe and pulling one rope through all those clips, getting the Bear the end, hauling that crap all the way up there, then keeping it together to actually drill the bolt, was overwhelming. I'll see if I can make my sentences shorter on the next stream of consciousness. :)
I only had 10 or 15 feet till the belay ledge but that last bolt was so far beneath me. I remember thinking if I didn't get a bolt in there, no one would ever do the route. Then I recall thinking what a massive fall it would be if I blew it. I'm just balanced there, on that right toe, and it's shaking; of course. Like our 8 yr old son said the other day...AWKWARD! I guess this was more of what we came for.
The Bear took me off with the one rope, I pulled it all the way through those clips, he tied the drill and hammer on and away I hauled, teeth and hand. My poor leg just kept on shaking throughout the ordeal but somehow I managed to pull it off. Now that I clipped my good lead rope through the bolt, my leg mysteriously stopped shaking. Funny how that goes. I blasted the last 10 or 15 feet, which felt very easy, what with that bolt there. Huge relief for both of us. I really loved that about climbing, the mental burn combined with the physical challenge.
I'm very sorry if that was too long; I'm completely new at this.
Awesome.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 17, 2012 - 11:57pm PT
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Cowabunga, that was an awesome story Hamish, you should submit some stories to some magazines or something.
Febuary at Squamish, the wall to myself
30 years of insanity!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2012 - 12:18am PT
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just added a few spaces.. no biggee..
btw do you still train "Avalanche Poodles"? :)
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 18, 2012 - 01:45am PT
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speaking of dogs in the backcountry..
Avi Poo! hahaha
Also, for those who havent seen them yet, there is a trifecta of quality climbing short films on Sonnie Trotters blog http://sonnietrotter.com/roadlife/
Including a video of freeing the crux pitch of edge of pan, an old aid line in which Marc Leclerc spent a cloudy april day pulling out rusty pitons.
And an awesome video of Sonnie and Stanhope bagging the 2nd ascent of the Prophet!!
And already linked to this thread, The video of Jason Huey Sending the Shawdow.
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hamish f
climber
squamish
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Feb 19, 2012 - 11:08am PT
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now that I see pics. of dogs and some people are talking about those cracks to the right of the tough pitch on the buttress, I should inject a quick story which combines both. When my gorgeous wife, Val, the famous John Rosholt, and I were scrubbing the last one of those cracks (gemini), we spent quite a bit of time on that nice big ledge. We still had our little dog, Eddie, in those days and that little guy was always keen to come with. We'd hike up and rap in to that ledge for a few hours of scrubbing and lounging. Eddie joined us and was right at home up there. So one day we're hanging out on the ledge, we're messing with scrub brushes and gear and little Eddie is cruising around, probably looking for chipmunks. He's 18 lbs., jet-black, no collar, no leash. A couple is climbing the butress right underneath us and the girl is leading the little pitch that gets you onto the big ledge where we are. I'm right there, watching as she pulls up, ties into some manky tree, shouts off belay to her hubby, and settles in. Sudddenly Eddie walks out from under the salal and checks her out. Wow, did she ever yell. "What the hell is that?", she screamed. Oh, don't worry, I told her, that's just Eddie. God bless Eddie and God bless John Rosholt; both total stand up beings that are missed dearly. More on John later...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 19, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
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Really cool thread.....Wow, Genius Loci..... What a line, what a story!
Thanks for sharing. My fingertips were sweating after reading that.
What do people think about when comparing Genius to the
Bachar/Yerian? Could be the Squamish version for sure. Very cool that there are routes like
that around here put up in that same awesome adventurous style.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 19, 2012 - 01:36pm PT
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Eddie was always great fun to have on a climb. A lively character.
And yes, there is that "enter" key, for those in pursuit of the elusive Paragraph.
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hamish f
climber
squamish
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Feb 19, 2012 - 01:59pm PT
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Bare with me, I'll get it. I thought these were just quick and silly stories; didn't realize we're actually writing. I promise to take more care with the next one.
Sometime I'll write (in actual paragraphs) the story of Eddie whimpering because I was so convinced my hook was about to fail.
I was drilling off a useless hook, convinced it was about to pull, at which point it was likely I'd hit the ground, and there's little Eddie whimpering away on the trail.
Great bond, that dog-human thing.
We named that route Everyone's a Guide. Couple of sh*t disturbers, the Bear and I.
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peter croft
climber
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Feb 19, 2012 - 02:30pm PT
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Hey Hamish
Great story about Genus Loci. Man, more than any other, that was the route I wished I had been able to do before I left Canada. Don't worry about the length of the story - or rather do worry about the length - it needs to be longer. If your fingers are sweating at the key board you know you're on the right track. Such a cool thing about that level of intensity - it's just burned into your memory. Remember the U Wall flashbacks ? I know you do. How even years later we'd be at some noisy party, look at each other and laugh cause we'd both be thinking the same thing, both of us back up on the wall.
Such good memories of Eddie as well - more pluck than a dozen dobermans though I doubt he really thought of himself as a dog.
Look forward to seeing you guys next time I'm up there.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 19, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
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Oh yah, lots of important memories from climbing U wall with you. Thanks for the positive feedback on my little story. Haven't heard too many complaints so far so I'll make an effort to keep going.
Off the topic but Greg just recently told us about Pee Wee. I'm so sorry for you guys. Pee Wee was incredable and so loyal. It's been 5 or 6 years since Eddie died and I still miss the little scrapper. They really do turn into Family members...say hi to Karine for us.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 19, 2012 - 05:32pm PT
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While we're momentarily on the subject of freeclimbing U wall, 30 years ago, (gulp),it's funny to look back and remember how preoccupied and tunnel-visioned we were.
We were all, as usual, staying at Joe's place on No-Name rd. Joe was the only one really working, therefore the only one renting a house, and he had a lot of friends; like it or not.
That day we actually climbed all the way to the top of the chimneys, free, we probably got dropped off at the base by one of the very few climbers that owned a vehicle.
Later on I'll do my best to type a story about that day.
Funny thing was, we had no plan to get back to Joe's place. I remember sitting on that ledge, on top of the roman chimneys, eating oranges with Peter. We were just giggling away because we'd just free climbed the whole wall. We were looking out to the north, towards Joe's house, thinking, boy,that's going to take a long time to walk there.
That didn't matter in the slightest...nothing could blow our buzz at that point. We walked and walked, into the dark, and eventually got there. No cars, no bikes, no money; classic.
Now that I live in Squamish (and have forever, it seems), and rip around in my truck everywhere, that distance looks huge. 30 years...crazy.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 19, 2012 - 05:57pm PT
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Oh ya., now I'm getting the hang of this paragraph stuff.
Are you tired of me yet?
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 19, 2012 - 06:12pm PT
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 19, 2012 - 06:21pm PT
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Hey, there's me. I sure would like to trade back to that colour hair and a pair of those non-swollen hands.
Good thing climbers like Bruce actually owned cameras.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 19, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
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Oh I'm actually doing very well, thanks Tami. As long as I get lots of sleep, keep moving, and ride the sh*t out of my mountain bike, the inflammation seems to keep at bay. Sorry to hear about your back. Lifting Dean and Els's girl while drinking red wine won't be doing those bulging discs any good. :)
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 19, 2012 - 08:57pm PT
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O.K., cold stella in my hand; ready for pitch 2 memories.
There isn't too much to write about pitch 2 of genus-loci. It's a pretty short pitch; a little up, a little down, and some traversing thrown in. It only needed 3 bolts and I think the first one went in nicely off a good ledge.
Peder and I had our other partner in crime along, Mark Gandy. Three of us, lots of down jackets and touqes, and lots of laughs. I'm thinking Peder drilled that first bolt and then it was Mark's turn. Mark was a really good climber; a little more so when following. On the lead, he would get a little frightened sometimes.
So, off goes Mark, clips that first bolt, does a bunch of downclimbing and a little traversing and gets himself crouched on a ledge. He's looking very awkward and starts asking for the drill.
We ask if he plans on drilling a bolt there and he barks out YES! We suggested standing up (to maximize the bolt placement) and he'll have none of that. Looking increasingly tangled over there, Mark continues on to haul the drill over and somehow gets the bolt in.
Wow, he pulled it off. The Bear and I were pretty excited; looked hard over there. Mark lowered off and now it was my turn.
I climb over there and stand up on the little ledge. The bolt is somewhere at my knee or waist and I look over at Mark for an explanation. Poor guy, just too gripped. It actually worked out allright, the climber sure wasn't going to be getting any help from the rope being above them for a move or two.
I made my way up and drilled one more bolt off another one of those "hooks pulling sideways with my foot in a sling" stances. Then there were a few funky moves up to the station, but nothing like that first pitch.
We were pretty proud of ourselves; the whole mini-pitch went in one effort.
That wasn't the case with the third pitch; beautiful face climbing up to a tough finger crack. Free climbing right out there to the left of the left side of the pillar. Canucks game starts pretty soon so I'll bore you guys with pitch 3 details later.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 19, 2012 - 09:29pm PT
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Another awesome addition to a great tread thanks Hamish. You're stories of ground up hand drilling freaking rule..
Any chance the well used Fish hand I recently purchase for $18 IIRC at Outwest belonged to any one on here before it made its way to me.
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Feb 19, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
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Sez here in my guide... that Genius Loci P1,2 are "un-repeated and rather bold"
Wonder if this is still the case?
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Feb 19, 2012 - 10:04pm PT
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Thanks Hamish- I'm loving your play by plays.
Oh ya - go Canucks!
Edit: sorry about Eddie. Cool dog.
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MH2
climber
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Feb 19, 2012 - 10:07pm PT
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I asked around after Catalan and I gave it our go and was told, "Most people just go for p3 without doing 1 or 2." Catalan was good for 5.13 and p2 gave him trouble. It gave me quite a shock seconding. It was our education in Hamish F.
Hamish himself is, of course, unable to give an objective opinion of the climb. Speaking as an objective type, I like Hamish's ratings acumen. It is unexpectedly old school for such a youngster.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 19, 2012 - 10:29pm PT
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These stories keep pulling me out of my hockey trance. I hope you are having as much fun writing them as we are reading them Hamish.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 19, 2012 - 11:47pm PT
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Actually I am having fun writing these stories.
That third pitch was the big one and I got so pumped drilling most of those bolts that we came down after each one. Only once did I manage to drill 2 bolts on one push. Other than that, it was a bolt per day and, like the first pitch, some days we couldn't get past the previous day's bolt. Then we hit the finger crack and it got tougher. I'll try and squeeze that little story off tomorrow sometime.
Hi Tim :)
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 20, 2012 - 01:15am PT
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Any chance the well used Fish hand I recently purchase for $18 IIRC at Outwest belonged to any one on here before it made its way to me.
That was mine. Enjoy!
KW
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2012 - 02:21pm PT
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Wow. Loving the FA stories! This is why I started this thread...
I hope I did not offend you Hamish F by posting a punctuated version of your Genius Loci story, but I had to do it for myself simply so that I could read it anyways, (as I sometimes lose my place in such a large text) and thought that others might appreciate it as well.
Peter Croft- Welcome sir.
It would be very cool to hear the tale of U Wall from both your perspectives!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 21, 2012 - 12:57am PT
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Because we were so concerned with ethics in those days, and I still have concerns in this area, we wanted our adventure to be as pure as possible.
My first attempt on that big pitch, #3, was with Bruce MacDonald. Bruce spent a lot of time in front of a computer so was easily talked into this outing. I was so full of myself and so impressed by the Californian climbers who established hard routes on the lead, I figured we’d just get up there and start freeing this great looking pitch.
I’d never actually done 10 years after but I knew there was an old bolt ladder leading up to a face crack. Anyone could see that. I remember Bruce asking me what the plan was and me answering how I’d scrub a bit, clip those bolts, scrub some more, and soon I’d be at that killer face crack.
We got ourselves positioned on the slab, right underneath that beautiful, steep wall and I racked up. I reached up from the gentle slab angle and found some old piton scar to lay away on. I pulled up and wow, this was steep stuff. I clipped a crummy fixed pin and posed there, in the layback position, looking up at this daunting pitch. Boy, this wasn’t soloing around the desert all day and then spending hours at the desert hot springs. This looked horrendous. All those bolts looked old and terrible, quarter-inchers with more rust than my worst vehicle. Furthermore it was dirty, really dirty, and that face crack was now looking a long ways up there. I think I stood in a sling, or etrier, for a while and realized I didn’t have a hope in hell of doing this. Unfortunately this wasn’t Tuolomne, or Yosemite, it was the northern rainforest and the moss and lichen was velcroed to the granite. That was it for the first attempt, totally humbled and rapping to the ground. Sorry Bruce.
A month later I teamed up with Peder and we were getting pretty psyched. The Bear was living in Whistler and was ski-patrolling there. It was nearing the end of the season so he was keen to skip a little work and hitch down to Squamish for new-routing. One day he got picked up by his boss, Brian. I’m not sure if they talked much but Peder had a rope over his shoulder. I’m pretty sure that was the year Peder received “employee of the year” award from Whistler Mountain. Classic.
We wanted to climb this thing so badly we were willing to compromise our ethics a little. We’d have to rap in, scrub it clean, and yank all those useless bolts. Then we’d go to the bottom, armed with drill and hooks, and see how it went.
We’d always known exactly where the belay at the top of the hard pitch would be. You could see it perfectly whenever it snowed. There was a choice ledge, partway out that dyke which connects ten years after with the left side of the pillar. It had to be eight inches thick and five feet long. Total no-hands-ledge, that spot had belay written all over it. We needed to put a station in there so we could rap down and scrub the hell out of that hundred feet of rock.
We had a definite ethical problem with this approach as we were about to spoil the whole “on-sight, solve-as-you-go” experience. We didn’t think we had much choice, no one else was going to scrub it for us. We thought about leaving it for the future generation but that, too, seemed a little dubious. Is some future hot shot really going to show up here and lead right up, while scrubbing and drilling? Very hard to imagine. Not unless they were going to assault the rock with a bolt ladder. We justified our strange tactics and managed to rap over from the top of the left side to that belay ledge. We got a directional off a tipped-off knifeblade along that dyke and it was pretty sporty, trying to rap sideways. That ledge was bigger than we thought. What a spot! Right up there on the aid wall.
Peder rapped down first and started to scrub. When he was at the crack, he started to bang out a fixed pin. I yelled down to him to leave it, just belt it in harder. And the Bear could sink a pin below the surface, if need be. So there was a bomber pin in that pitch, hopefully still is… I remember John Rosholt tying a little plastic sign to it years later. His little sign asked climbers to leave the pin and not nail out the crack.
The Bear proceeded to yank out all those manky bolts. We scrubbed and scrubbed. Not the best job but not bad. We tried really hard not to try any moves or piece anything together; we wanted to save that for the sharp end. Strangely enough, when we finally did this pitch, we ended up going a totally different way than we had scrubbed at one point.
Eventually we get that face pretty clean and we’re back at the bottom of this stellar looking pitch. We’ve brought Mark along, so it’s the three stooges, hard at it. It’s nice having two belayers when drilling on lead; one to belay the leader and one to belay the drill. That was a great trick, leave the drill and hammer at the last bolt, on belay. Then the leader only has to haul the drill from that last bolt, not the belay. This usually worked well but you had to watch out for tangles.
It was freezing cold, so we were in full down jackets , touqes, and runners for the belays. The cold weather was ideal for the tough face climbing, way better stick with the shoes. I’m a little rusty on how we got that first bolt in, it may have been a combo of one good lieback hold and aiding off some useless cam. It was glaringly obvious where that first bolt needed to go. These few moves to get going weren’t too bad and then you had to move out right, where it looked kind of blank. I’m pretty sure I drilled that bolt and then gave those tough moves a go. I couldn’t come close. You had to gaston off to the right, leaning off a crummy pin scar with your left. It felt like my shoulder was going to dislocate. I was a little discouraged, here I was at our dream pitch and I couldn’t even get going. Oh man, what have we done?
We all gave that thing a whirl and no one was able to do it. I remember driving back to Vancouver in the pouring rain, with my left arm lying limp on my lap, just thrashed from that move that I couldn’t do.
The next time up it’s the three of us stooges again and Peder gets up there for some Bear-battling. Holy mac if the guy doesn’t actually pull it off. He got it! He was climbing so well and came up with a slightly different method. He jumped off and came down but we were so excited. I went up and tried his method and got it too. A few tough pulls up some little edges and things are really perking up. Sh#t, this is so scary, I’ve got to drill a bolt right away! I got a good hook to stick on a little ledge and haul up the drill and hammer. Great, bolt number two is in and I’m lowering off. I could see up ahead there was a faint little corner with a couple of pretty fair looking lay back holds. After that it seemed to blank out so that spot was looking perfect for the next bolt.
Mark and Peder each climbed up to that top bolt but not much higher. I was ready for another try so I led up and launched into that shallow corner. Oh yah, this is really frightening. I perched myself up in that shallow corner, left hand in the lay back position, chalking up my right hand. Ya, I’m pretty secure here… I’m quite sure I could hold this stance long enough to drill a bolt. These are always tough decisions, it’s all great to be posed up there, a little run out, chalking up. But to commit to the task and start hauling that hammer and drill and actually drill that hole, oh boy, you’re about to get pumped. I hauled up the crap and drilled as fast as I could but I was just melting in my little corner of hell. Pulled it off though, thank god. Pumped beyond belief. I had to lower off and that was definitely it for the day but man, were we ever psyched. We were actually making progress.
On our next mission up there things really started to click. The Bear drilled the next bolt off a hook and it went really well. Like I said before, the guy was so strong he didn’t have any problem operating that thing above his head. Not like me at 150 lbs. soaking wet. For me, drilling above my head was a full body workout.
Now it’s my turn and I get up to Peder’s high point. I’m looking up and left, where the route looks like it should go, where we’ve scrubbed, and boy, it’s looking tough. I opted for off to the right and up, totally the wrong direction. I can see good looking holds under the moss and it all links together to bring me back to where I wanted to be. I was into some nice sized holds now, with my feet on a good dyke. The next two bolts I placed one after the other, without lowering off to the belay. This was a first as all the other bolt placements were so exhausting I couldn’t even think of continuing on without a major break. I suppose this also means these moves weren’t too bad.
Now I’m finally approaching the finger crack. So exciting! I get over to the crack and start placing some r.p.s. They look terrible. I try to make a move past them, up towards that coveted fixed pin, and one of the nuts falls out. The other one tips up like it’s on the verge of popping. Oh man, this isn’t looking very good at all. Where’s my beautiful crack anyway? I flicked the other nut out and started climbing back to my last bolt. As I’m doing this I see a line of holds leading out right to a good handhold. It’s totally off route but I’m thinking I could make my way over there quite easily and drill a bolt while hanging off that sweet looking left bucket. Definitely off to the right but we could sling it. We’d been using slings on lots of the bolts on this pitch, because it was all over the place, trying to plow our way up to that amazing looking face crack. I lowered off my last bolt and we bailed.
I remember being back at home in Van and thinking no one was going to be thrilled about those crummy r.p.s and that the bolt way out to the right was the answer. Next time up, I went straight out to that good hold and drilled the bolt. It was looking great.
Finally I got to that crack again. I made it to the fixed pin and then it started to get really difficult really fast. Tough jams and hardly anything for the feet. I tried a couple of times but couldn’t make much progress. Mark and Peder both spent lots of time up there but weren’t having much luck either.
Another outing passed and we were back up there again, ready for battle. I gave that thing everything I had, got above the pin, and then got so pumped trying to place a yellow cam, that was it for the day. I down aided to the pin, cleaned my gear, and lowered off. I could see a big bucket at the end of the crack and it looked so good. Just this damn crack was brutal. The jams were shitty and there wasn’t much at all for the feet, so you really had to lean out on your jams to get any purchase with your feet. Brutal.
We talked at length about the whole thing and decided the next time up there, I’d have a yellow cam on both sides of me, so no matter what, I could fire that thing in quickly.
Sorry this is turning into such a saga, it’s almost over.
The NEXT time we were on our mission, it was Mark and I. Unfortunately when we got up to Squamish it started raining so we got diverted to the greasy burgers, fries, and coffee for quite a while. I think we were contemplating cutting firewood when suddenly the weather started to perk up. I remember we weren’t feeling all that great hiking up there and had our doubts.
Blasting up Merci-Me I started feeling a lot better and the butterflies were starting in my stomach. I knew I had a great chance on this pitch. I’d only fallen four or five times on that crack and I could see that bucket at the end of it. So close. I felt great about having a yellow cam on each hip; surely this was the ticket.
I cruised through the lower face climbing and arrived at the base of the finger crack without the hint of a pump. Oh yah, feeling really good now. I attacked that gnarly little crack full-on and soon I was well above that pin. I fired one of those yellow cams in and the rope drag was so heavy, I almost fell pulling up enough to clip. Instantly I was pumped beyond words. Oh no, no, no… I held it together and somehow kept jamming until I could grab for that bucket. Oh my god, I was so relieved, and so wasted. I still had a little ways to go and a few nuts to place. This was a relatively easy stretch but I was barely in there. My rods and cones were all messed up. I got some good r.p.s in and made my way carefully up to that glorious ledge. I vividly remember tying in, shouting down to Mark, and then, whoooosh, massive nose bleed, all over the place. This went on for a bit, then stopped. First time ever for that reaction from my body, but it was the lead of a lifetime. Blood everywhere, all over my shirt, all over the gear, classic.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 21, 2012 - 01:03am PT
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Thanks, Hamish - awesome!
Did you go back and do the whole route in one go? With the Bear, possibly?
And don't be sorry about the length - you should see me when I get going. In fact, you probably have.
You guys got any pictures of the climb?
The description from the current guidebook says the route is 5.12b, done in 1991.
Believed to have not been freed on a single ascent.
A magnificent excursion up the open walls left of the Pillar, bolted on lead. Start 15 m left of Mercy Me. Difficult face climbing leads to a station above a small overlap (11d). Up rightwards across Mercy Me to belay on the slab below the end of the big roof (11c). These first two pitches are unrepeated and rather bold. Climb up to the bottom of the thin face crack and go out right to a slim dyke. Follow it back to the crack and up it to join a wide dyke, good holds and a belay (12b). Follow the dyke in a sensational position to the top of The Left Side. [Of the Split Pillar.] Continue up Grinning Weasel until a pull out right into a sloping shelf is possible. Face climb to a hard mantel onto the small ledge halfway up the Sword.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 21, 2012 - 01:03am PT
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O man, sorry to put you folks through that. I wrote as fast as I could but somehow it ended up going on, and on, and on.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 21, 2012 - 01:36am PT
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I wrote as fast as I could
That's OK, we're slow readers - on purpose when it's this good.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 21, 2012 - 01:50am PT
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I feel sad for the poor supertopoians who skip by this thread and don't get to read this story, classic stuff man. Thanks for the effort and vigorous typing, it's all worth it for us.
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apogee
climber
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Feb 21, 2012 - 02:14am PT
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"My rods and cones were all messed up."
That's feckin' priceless.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 21, 2012 - 02:15am PT
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Awesome story Hamish! Don't worry about the length, it sounds great. That route has been on my wish list since I moved here. I wonder if I'll ever be up to the task?....
Please do tell about the background of the name.
Kris
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2012 - 03:13am PT
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Sorry this is turning into such a saga, it’s almost over.
You had me hooked the whole way. Such a great tale requires the length to be told properly.
I'm glad my editing was useful :)
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 21, 2012 - 09:35am PT
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glad you guys like my ramble. Hey Bruce... I know for a fact Peder got "employee of the year". It was published in the whistler Question.
I wouldn't write that stuff if it wasn't true. cheers. :)
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 21, 2012 - 10:32am PT
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Another excellent story hammish keep up the fantastic writing.
Jim B; Did you see the video I linked of edge of pan being freed? Do you have any stories of the FA?
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 21, 2012 - 11:12am PT
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Famish, does genius loci climb the last part of the ten years after crack before the dyke heads right toward the pillar?
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 21, 2012 - 11:17am PT
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Pretty sure 'Bear' is Peder Ourums(sp?) nickname, not Peter Croft
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MH2
climber
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Feb 21, 2012 - 11:58am PT
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Oh, Yeah! That was great.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
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Famish
I like that :)
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 21, 2012 - 12:36pm PT
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Whoops, bloody iPad changing everything I write...it changed dyke to duke too...I'll leave it as famish though, that's kinda fitting...
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MH2
climber
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Feb 21, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
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a post-script for the underfling and the free-grand variant
Stoke!
Someone please scrub Los Zapatos, too. It leads right up to Genius Loci pitch 1.
Hamish makes pictures unnecessary but we can put them on this site so we do.
Here is a look at Genius Loci pitch 3 from the side to give an idea of the angle of the rock. The climbers are headed for the Split Pillar. This was the day Hamish and John came running up the Squamish Buttress catching us at the 10c pitch.
Here is Genius Loci pitch 3 seen from a distance on a rare occasion when people were on it. In the first picture the leader is in the vicinity of the crux crack. Then the second comes up.
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micro_marc
Trad climber
Squamish
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Feb 21, 2012 - 02:17pm PT
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Really enjoyed reading this thread, its great to see photos of so many familiar faces. I thought I would join and contribute a couple photos myself.
My buddy Luke gets his ninja on at the 'Neat and Cool' crag. Cody Tuttle photo.
a project on the lower north walls. Chris Christie photo.
Met Zac in the campground, and he decided to try u-Wall. He casually onsghted the entire route, then did the same 'Freeway' the same day.
U-Wall again, this time its Tony Mclane cruising up P1.
This is what happens when it dries up in the winter, you stick to everything. putting up a new route at Penny Lane.
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 21, 2012 - 03:12pm PT
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Great postings Hamish - how about your Humpty Dumpty solo ?
The vid of Sunday TRotter freeing the Edge of Pan is unreal, cool how his palming, slapping, tickling, and pushing techniques fire up when the holds run out, now we know how it's done.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 21, 2012 - 03:22pm PT
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Welcome, Marc - it's great how younger climbers are adding their bit here, carrying on from the Squamish Silverbacks Society posts. Your film the other night was great.
I liked the famish=hamish conversion.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 21, 2012 - 06:41pm PT
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Marc, you climbed with Zac?!?!? He is the hardman of oz (where I'm from)...probably one of the better trad climbers in the sea of bolt clippers in the Blue Mountains. Zac has balls of steel, of which I'm sure you've seen ;)...
BTW, respect for your free attempts (and hopeful success) on temptation, that is audacious!
Nick
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 21, 2012 - 07:08pm PT
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Come on Marc elaborate on your afternoon jaunt up freeway, we'ed love to hear how it went!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 21, 2012 - 08:02pm PT
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In the middle of moving I came across this photo I clipped from a Metolius catalogue. It's my friend Andreas Taylor in fine form on The Left Side.
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MH2
climber
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Feb 21, 2012 - 08:24pm PT
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So i thought i'd post a few of my photos and see if anyone else has anything to share!
So said Big Mike in post #1. He pushed this thread off the ground, probably not knowing where it was going to go. Thanks to all who have added to it and welcome to Marc who may be young in years but has put years into climbing. Check out his repeat of Grand Wall free.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Feb 21, 2012 - 08:33pm PT
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hamish!! Yowllzz!
Gripping typing laddie, about a gripping climb.
I had to read your stories twice, the second time with a drink in hand.
Splendid, just splendid!
Thanks to everyone for the the follow up and fine photos.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
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Wow.. Welcome to all the new readers and lurkers alike!
Marc- Nice pics man! Bruce Lee Vs the Kiss Army is cool I've never seen anyone on it. What's that new slab route at penny lane rated? Luke showed me it the other day.. Looks hard!
mh2- I had no idea where this was going... The truth is Climbing at Squamish in the 1970's was kinda fizzling out and I still wanted to hear more tales and see more pretty pictures, so I thought maybe if I shared some of my pictures I might spark a few memories.. I can't believe what it's become and am stoked every day I get to read something new.
Nice pictures of Genus loci!
Hopefully I have some time to edit a couple new photos for you guys soon.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 21, 2012 - 10:57pm PT
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What is it with all the liebacking in these shots?
I share your pain Greg. Liebacking on anything steeper than about 75 degrees should be illegal. But what can you do? Ever since Kevin published that photo of Keith F*#king Reid on the Pillar, you can't call yourself a Squamish climber unless you've got huge muscles and can lieback overhanging pencil edges.
Feh!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 21, 2012 - 11:18pm PT
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gf,
He's gripped 'cos he forgot to bring his aiders!
H.
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Feb 21, 2012 - 11:28pm PT
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I believe this is part of Marc's project on the N Walls (above Forgotten Flake). Have you sent this yet, Marc?
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micro_marc
Trad climber
Squamish
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Feb 21, 2012 - 11:34pm PT
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Bruce, Zac and I both laybacked the flare on U-Wall, the secret is to tuck your knees in and sneak a rest. P3 was the crux for me, I hardly climbe it, there was a fair bit of slipping, grunting, and thrutching involved before I latched the jugs. Zac walked up it, couldn't pull the slack in fast enough at the belay haha.
The Temptation of St Anthony is such a stellar line, easily on of the best I have ever climbed on, can't wait for dry spring weather..
The roof in the photo above is quite thin, and I think it will remain a 'proj' for a while, for me at least. I am working on a pitch that avoids it that goes around to the right, to make it reasonable.
oh and Luke, as you know.... the 'jaunt' up freeway was slightly ridiculous, we started pretty late and two friends in the campground said it was easy and we would 'simul climb' most of it. Turned out to be hard, and we got caught in the dark after the crux roof. We had forgotten to bring headlamps so Zac led the offwidth via laybacking it without placing any gear, then I got to lead the last pitch in the dark feeling for holds and bolts. Luckily neither of us pitched off the thing. Blows my mind how sguys climb another route like 'Northern Lights' after that, I was wiped!
The slab at Penny Lane is called 'Total Fascination' could be a 5.13a, Squamish granite is so good for slabs, but you have to be patient and wait for the winter!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 21, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
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So the Canadian contingent here now includes, at least:
Mighty Hiker (I wasn't)
MH2 (possibly the M stands for Mighty)
Big Mike
thekidcormier
micro_marc
I detect a pattern.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 21, 2012 - 11:45pm PT
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Not a whole lot to write about pitches 3 and 4 of genus-loci. We never fell, the forth pitch only needed three bolts, and the last pitch didn't need any.
All three bolts on the forth pitch went in off natural stances. This pitch was pretty short but felt like one of the most exposed spots in Squamish. This was a total prize, a beautiful dyke taking us from our heaven-sent ledge over to the top of the left side of the pillar.
I remember that first bolt went in nicely, just off our belay I think. I recall drilling the next bolt while hanging off a perfectly flat bucket with my left hand. There weren't many footholds so I just hung there off that open left hand and started drilling. Pretty pumpy spot, not to mention the exposure, so I was a little too focussed on the drilling and not thinking too much about how the rope was going to run.
I could barely hold onto that bucket by the time I'd hammered the bolt in and clipped it with a draw. Completely spent, I sagged onto the rope in preparation to lower back to the belay.
Damn, I'd drilled that bolt in the perfect spot for clipping but, because it was directly above this flat ledge, the rope, if weighted, was going to rub right on the edge. Not being able to fire myself, because I was the best-producing employee, I clipped another draw on there to extend it over the edge. I was sure I'd be receiving some flack later on for that bolt placement.
Peder was up next and cruised over to that nice bucket. This pitch was quite clean, we hardly scrubbed it and the rock was as good as it gets. This was five star climbing right out there on the face of the chief. We were in heaven, especially because it was about five letter grades easier than the previous pitch.
The Bear pawed around there for awhile, found some footholds to stem between and some killer hold he was calling a baseball. Peder had done a great job scoping and was feeling the tug of the abyss underneath him. He reversed his path back to my poorly located bolt and lowered to the belay.
I headed out there and got a pretty good stance at the Bear's spot. This drilling location was looking primo. I could stem between a couple of great smears and hold on tight to that baseball-shaped nugget.
Not too many grey hairs generated drilling that one. In it went and now I'm within striking distance of the top of the left side. I recall a few quick moves to stand up on the dyke and then I could lean way over and grab the top of the crack, which was the end of the left side pitch. Wow, it doesn't get much sweeter than that. Peder follwed over without much effort and we rapped off. We still had one pitch to explore but it wasn't happening that day.
A week or two later and we're back up on top of the left side. I'm pretty sure Bruce MacDonald joined Peder and I. He couldn't turn down this quality of fun.
We had a general idea of our plan. We hoped to jam up the left side of the sword for quite a distance and then move out right, onto the face which wasn't far from the grand wall route. The plan was to climb up that thin face crack which everyone climbs (the top section of) when they're climbing the sword pitch on the grand.
I was elected for the first forray up there so I launched off, with a pretty nice selection of gear and a haul line for the drill and hammer. I jammed my way up that corner which Greg and Peter had freed years earlier. Eventually I picked a spot where the arete wasn't as sharp as a razor, slammed in a couple of cams, side by each, slung them with double slings, and started reaching blindly around the corner. Unreal, I could just feel a face crack out there and it was a good size, number one and a half friend I seem to recall.
I committed and pulled out onto the face. Wow, big air central out here. I was perched right out there on that face of granite which separates the left side from the right side (of the sword) and it wasn't looking very good up ahead. Where I was, the crack was a great size but unfortunately it immediately thinned out to big r.p. size. Bummer. The more I looked up, the more little edges started to appear. Maybe I wasn't sunk yet.
I could see my goal, that nice sloping ledge that everyone's stood on when they're climbing the Grand. It was only fifteen feet away. I placed a couple of choice r.p.s in that thin crack and started making my way up.
I was using the edge of that crack and some nice little edges on the face. Someone was watching over us because the edges just kept coming. The climbing wasn't actually that tough, more mentally taxing due to the exposure and the fact that I was getting well above those nuts.
A few more careful moves up that little face and I grabbed for that sloping ledge. Not too bad a mantle but those r.p.s are looking further away now and there's so much rope between Peder and I. Not to mention we can't see each other.
I pulled up onto the ledge and sunk some cams in behind it. The plan was to lead the underfling from this ledge, and then try to free that blank piece of granite up beside the bolt ladders. I'll get back to that later. Oh Baby, was this epic actually over? It was a great way to finish our route, we were so chuffed that it went first try, with no scrubbing or bolting. Killer pitch. Great journey.
Canucks are down by one going into the third period so I'm moving back to the couch to offer those underpaid athletes some support.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 21, 2012 - 11:55pm PT
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Anders; Its possible you have been sandbagged with LSD that sh#t will make patterns out of anything
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2012 - 12:25am PT
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+1 Kid :)
Famish- Sounds like fun! maybe one day..
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 22, 2012 - 12:25am PT
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Well I don't recall this particular adventure Hamish .... but here is a photo every one can follow along with clearly showing that very exposed face crack
So G.L. to the underfling then the "regular" free grand, is yet to be done by our yung local punks yet ? Whats the problem I wonder, they all seem capable of anything .... it would be the hardest free line on the Chief I think, pretty continuous.
edit: msg to Stanhope & Honnold - Are you reading this ? Better get up there before Marc L. does !
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micro_marc
Trad climber
Squamish
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Feb 22, 2012 - 01:03am PT
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Haha gnarly, or 'War of the Raptors' into the free grand, seems to be more direct but pretty intimidating as well. Genius Loci into 'Ten Years After' free is the real prize, but should almost be tried ground up.
another crazy pipe dream idea would be the free grand on gear. one could climb the sword, then continue into the 'underfling' bypassing the bolts, build a nest of gear at the rest halfway out the arch, then finish the 'underfling' and run out the slab to the belay below 'Perry's' all in one EPIC pitch. Would be a big fall off the slab but clean air for sure. But from there one would be obligated to lead 'Perry's' on #5 camalots. Any takers?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 22, 2012 - 01:21am PT
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What aboot Uncle Ben's? Is anyone trying to free that?
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 22, 2012 - 01:23am PT
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Fair means ascent of Raptors to left side pillar to scary GL face crack to underfling & wide gear for lay back - but no chopping, Marc ... this isn't one of the greatest summits on earth like Cerro Torre
Uncle Bens has a very steep bolt ladder in the black sickle which will never go free, as well the short roof low down would be impossible too
But getting back onto the 10 yrs after crack system somehow, from Genus Loci, then connects you to the base of Perry's lieback
Edit: Correct me if I am wrong Marc but traverse left from top of the lft side back into 10 yrs and its crack climbing all the way to the base of Perrys lieback ? Actually looks mostly moderate by todays standards
edit2: crux ...
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 22, 2012 - 01:32am PT
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Oh k. I was reading the latest guidebook's topo that says, "please do not remove fixed pins--required for free ascent" on the White Sickle pitch. Thought maybe someone was goin for it.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 22, 2012 - 02:31am PT
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Soooooo gooood.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 22, 2012 - 03:01am PT
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Wow, what a gem this thread has proved to be. There is a lot of good reading and pictures and overall good content here that invokes sentiment not unlike poetry or good scotch. Keep it up lads, and thanks for showing up, Hamish. I like your style.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 22, 2012 - 10:26am PT
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(Holy Mac, this new generation of climbers is fast and strong! I'm so impressed and definitely feeling a little old. You guys should get into technical tree climbing/removal with chainsaws, you could make a killing.
Back to g-l for a second. Peder and I really wanted to start at the bottom, on Scott's route, Los Zapatos. This leads one straight into genus-loci, which takes you right to the underfling. Then, of course, up that and hang a left up the blank (in those days) slab. If you're concerned about style, I actually tried that blank section once, with the Bear, and drilled a bolt pretty far out there, relatively speaking, off a hook. I also drilled the first one, standing on the no-hands ledge at the belay.
I was pretty scared out there, drilling that bolt, and it was a strange experience because there was a spanish guy climbing the Grand to our left. He hung there and watched my whole ordeal, babbling away about style and the fact that that was how they did things.
Anyhow, I got that bolt in, gave the next moves a few goes and didn't get very far at all. We never made it back. I'm not sure how Scott Cosgrove arranged his bolts up there when he freed it (I doubt he would have been placing any bolts on rappel), but I would have to think my bolts would still be there.
I sure like my mountain bike...so easy.
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micro_marc
Trad climber
Squamish
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Feb 22, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
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BMACD, you have it spot on for 'Ten Years After', climb G.L to the top of the left side, and then traverse that 'free grand'esque' ramp back left to the corners and follow them all the way up to Perry's. Looks like a line, but harly 'moderate', very thin expanding corner systems with big fall potential. Probably a bit like climbing 'Presto' in Murrin without the bolts, ground up, over and over and over, with the ground further away.
Hamish, not sure but I think when Cosgrove freed the Grand he may have tension traversed off of belay bolts below Perry's and place the bolts on rappel tension?? There are three bolts on the slab, the first is right by the station, I think you clip it before you even start climbing, and the second is probably half way out the ramp, could that one be yours?
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micro_marc
Trad climber
Squamish
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Feb 22, 2012 - 02:13pm PT
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Cool info there Coz! Sorry for my mistake, I had seen a photo in a magazine captioned 'bolting on the grand wall free variation' or something like that, and I think it showed a bolt going in on tension. Cool to know how it actually went down. That slab is a great little pitch, and there certainly are some 'mono crystals' on it.
I always thought 'The Underfling' pretty exciting, it has bolts, but they are nicely spaced. Every time I was clipping a bolt while pumped all I could imagine was taking the 30ft pendulum back towards the sword if my foot slipped. Not dangerous by any means, but quite a bit different than the bolting job on Perry's if you know what I mean. Unreal position up there.
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 22, 2012 - 02:13pm PT
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starting on Apron Strings, climbing to the Geni Loca belay, (a no hands ledge, half way up the Sword) form there to the top of the Underfling mantle, belaying at the no hands stance, then sending the traverse, back to the top of the Sword. Finally finishing up on the Roman Chimneys.
It's not clear Scott, but I assume you climbed merci me to the right side of the pillar and then upwards ?
10 Years After is still a bonafide aid route, with a recent ascent. It does need a belay station near the area of question, as it went from being a partial wall route & then a pendulm to Grand, to being an independant complete line to Bellygood with no one claiming responsibility for the complete ascent, and still involving a station fudged midway from the bolt ladder on Grand. I remember it to be entirely expanding, and a small size, for 2 pitches once you moved above the face crack.
Marc I'd say TR it from the base of Perrys lie back and then consult the community if a free ascent is feasible. You have already established the fact you have good discretion in these matters as shown in how you handled Chris Geislers line in the north Walls. We dont want to lose all our aid climbs to the elite free climbers.
More power to ya !
edit: relinked to same photo on prev page
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 22, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
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I think this is just above the red spot circled on the last page...
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 22, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
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What about continuing up Ten Years After and freeing the A3 (not) traverse which is juggy and then the crack heading up to green acres? Looks easier than the final A1 pitch by a mile.
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micro_marc
Trad climber
Squamish
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Feb 22, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
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Thanks for that photo Fish Boy, do you have more? I've been looking for photos from Ten Years After for quite some time! If the traverse is indeed juggy then continuing to Green Acres would be awesome, I just saw a blank section on the topo and figured it was traversing blank granite.
When I freed the grand, I did the same thing you did Coz, except I did the 12a move to the base of the pillar and then continued to the top of the pillar as one pitch. I wanted to go from the top of the pillar to the station above the mantle out of the Underfling, but my feet skated on some grit on my first go, so I lowered to the Genius Loci ledge and sent it from there.
I should add that I bailed off Bellygood, I really need to go back and finish up the chimneys.
Here's that slab pith!
The slab awaits an onsight ascent. Which someone will pull off for sure.
Kruk following the pitch, he decided that the bolt ladder did not need to be chopped and we carried on ;)
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 22, 2012 - 02:49pm PT
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Hi Scott. Thanks for the writing.
Just to clarify what I wrote, I wasn't inferring you rapp-bolted anything; I merely said I didn't know how you had arranged your bolts, that's all. I drilled that first bolt, standing on that no-hands ledge at the belay, and then I drilled the next one off a hook (with that Spanish guy babbling away at me), I was getting pretty close to the belay so I'm not surprised it didn't require much more.
Nice job, by the way; I never really had the skills for that grade of climbing. Maybe a little low on patience, too. Hope things are good in Josh., if that's where you are.
I miss that place; solo-heaven right in amongst the bugs-bunny/ coyote/ road-runner scene. Those were some choice days booting around the desert, trying to solo stuff ten grades easier than what Bachar was soloing.
Here's to John Bachar, way more the Real Thing than anyone can imagine.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 22, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
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A Bellinghamster aid soloing Ten Years After, summer 2010. Other mayhem and malarkey occurring elsewhere in the photo.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 22, 2012 - 05:19pm PT
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Sorry if I'm hogging bandwidth, but here's some pics for Marc that I never put on the net...I can put them elsewhere if need be...
Near the top of the 7th pitch
Beginning the 8th pitch
Half way up 8th pitch, a couple of meters below yellow alien sized crack with arrow poking out of it. Gets larger after a few meters off to the left as seen. I am on a short bolt ladder after an scary-for-me piece of expando.
After the finger crack, cruisy as but sharp. Nearly at make shift belay...
Sorry none after that of interest, but the traverse pics are in the other thread...big hooks and finger cams I guess. You then hit a crack with two fixed blades, then up a 12+ ish dirty corner with good nuts. After that your home...
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micro_marc
Trad climber
Squamish
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Feb 22, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
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Very much appreciated Fish, like I said I've been looking for these kinds of photos of TYA for a while now.
This looks sick! I wonder if those pins would hold a fall? I have my doubts, I generally don't like to, or condone the idea of replacing pins with bolts. But I wonder if replacing just one with a free climbing bolt, so a falling leader doesn't rip the entire pitch would be acceptable. What do others think on this kind of issue? I would like to hear what you have to say.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 22, 2012 - 05:57pm PT
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Those pins are pretty good from memory, though the flake makes boom sounds...a little expando, nothing major. I'm not sure how often you'd be placing gear on a free climb like this cos I have no experience at all, but the pro is ok most of the way, especially equalised. The route seems clean until the end of the traverse. Have you checked out the thin crack on the 1st proper pitch after Merci Me?
Good luck anyway!
(Adding a bolt will tone it down as an aid route for sure, some parts are scaryish, which I guess is where you'd put a bolt, and the not so scary has better pro...whatever)
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 22, 2012 - 06:07pm PT
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Before my ground up send Mike Mont and Andrew? Tried to free the line and in doing so climb ground up replacing my bolts with fat 1/2 or 3/8 stainless and taking two fix pins out of the Underfling and adding one bolt, making it more run out but getting rid of the rusty pins in the locks.
It was Mike Mott and Andrew Boyd, two strong local climbers. Andrew has done some amazing FA's in Squamish and is one of the guys that started the bouldering craze in the forest at the foot of the Chief.
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MH2
climber
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Feb 22, 2012 - 07:22pm PT
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I had opportunity this Spring to ask Andrew B about Genius Loci. He said he hadn't done it, although he was, "pretty good on slab." He's fair at understatement, too.
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micro_marc
Trad climber
Squamish
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Feb 22, 2012 - 07:24pm PT
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Well if most of the gear seems okay then there would be no reason to replace anything, I was somewhat under the impression that all those corners were expanding to the point that most of the pieces would pull out in the event of a free climbing fall.
But I am still interested to hear what people think about these kind of issues, replacing fixed gear on these old aid lines to facilitate free ascents.
For instance, on harder pitches if there was a difficult runout right off the station but maybe an old pin a bit off the belay. How unreasonable would it be to replace it with a bolt rather than take huge whippers directly onto the belay?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 22, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
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FWIW, once in a while pulling an old pin exposes a perfectly good nut or cam placement.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 22, 2012 - 07:55pm PT
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On that particular pitch (I havent done it yet mind you) it appears as tho and SLCD would offer better pro then those old angles any way; as under weight atleast the spring loadeds would expand(abit depending on size).. and hopefully hold.
I feel that adding a bolt in the middle of an aid pitch like that in the middle would largely take away from the characteristics of the current..
Let hear thoughts from "The Squamish Morals and ethnics Committee"
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micro_marc
Trad climber
Squamish
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Feb 22, 2012 - 08:02pm PT
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Yeah adding bolts in the middle of pitches definitely detracts from the nature of the aid route, but what about placing one close to the belay to avoid factor two falls if nothing else is available?
I haven't had to do anything like this, its all theoretical. It would be good to know what people in the general area think about this sort of thing before even heading up on such routes with intentions of free climbing them.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 22, 2012 - 08:10pm PT
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Thats what I was thinking exactly just up and over an arms length from the belay.. If all the gear blows at least you keep the fall factor a bit under two;)
Just chuck a screamer on there and giver!
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micro_marc
Trad climber
Squamish
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Feb 22, 2012 - 08:41pm PT
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Thanks for the info Bruce, I think a good way to do these things is to go at it ground up, and aid climb if necessary just to get up the pitch, clean if needed and suss out the protection, but avoid practicing the moves. Then go back down and try to free climb it.
An true example of where replacing fixed gear was NOT necessary was 'Edge of Pan', which was mentioned earlier in this thread. Trotter showed me the project before he (or anyone) had actually tried to free climb it. Our 'recce' mission was actually when he bolted a new belay at the end of the crux pitch. He then left for the fall, forget where he went exactly, might have been Colorado or something...
anyways, I spent the next week or two riding my bike to the campground every couple days, hiking the first peak, and rapping to the top of the corner. Then I would drop a line down it using the new belay station Sonnie bolted. I cleaned out the corner, it wasn't very dirty, just had some grass and some gritty footholds. But it also had at least 15 fixed pins. I left the pins in and found many many good wire placements in between them as well as a few bomber cam placements. I also put in a belay on the ledge at the base of the corner and scrubbed a way to get to it by traversing right out of 'Lower Pan Tease'. I actually free'd the corner on my 'ushba' on my fixed rope a couple times. It's an AMAZING pitch! Never cruxy, just never ending stemming without a whole lot of rests.
My last day that I spent up there was in early June 2011 I think, after a long winter and wet spring spent waiting to get back on the pitch. It was freezing cold and windy, I was alone and rather hungover and lost my psyche to try the pitch, but I pulled every single pin and left it to be climbed without any fixed gear. I never had a chance to go up there with a partner and lead it unfortunately. I was busy the day Sonnie went to try it, but I was super psyched for him to get to try it out. He sent it his first try leading it, after doing it on a fixed line just once! Super impressive!
It really would have been a shame to leave the pins, they were ugly, plugged up some holds/gear placements, and most of them would not have held anyways.
I guess Sonnie went back to free climb it continuously via a hard and sustaned slab climb cale 'Never Land'. But when he got on the corner pitch he wasn't feeling too fresh, used up some of his wires in less ideal placements. When he made it to the bomber gear, he had used the wires lower down already! Then he fell and blew 5 or 6 pieces! It must have been scary because they retreated, then he phoned me a couple days later telling me he was going to put a bolt on 'Edge of Pan', just one partway up the corner, he had some good arguments for it, but it seemed hard to justify. I told him I wasn't stoked but it was up to him, and I guess he hiked ALL the way up the chief, rappelled into the corner, and once he was there in person he also decided not to do it. So he didn't place any bolts and jugged out. The pitch is a bit spicy, especially compared to climbing a splitter hand crack or something, but it certainly is not dangerous if you bring tonnes and tonnes of wires.
I am really happy that the pitch remains free of fixed gear and a true 'trad' pitch. Can't wait to try and free it continuously this spring. :) Psyched!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 22, 2012 - 08:56pm PT
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Is it true that the Little Smoke Bluffs Morals & Ethics Committee was recently renamed the Squamish Inquisition?
Speaking of Ten Years After, during the FA in 1970 (not 1971), Hugh, Steve and Dick pendulumed into the bolt ladder above the Sword, and finished via the Grand. They never went back. Then in 1977 Scott did Humpty Dumpty, not far to the left. Who continued work on the TYA line, and when?
Nice stories and discussion, all!
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micro_marc
Trad climber
Squamish
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Feb 22, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
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Thanks Coz, I managed to free it a couple days later. But it was definitely one of the coolest slab pitches I have climbed. I remember pushing on clumps crystals and step throughs on the sloping ramp. Really exposed too!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 22, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
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I gotta say, Squamish and Squamish climbers rock! (I just wish they didn't kick me out of Canada).
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 22, 2012 - 10:57pm PT
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Jim, Maddaloni's guide says "grinning weasel, A3, 1982".
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will stanhope
Trad climber
Vancouver BC
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Feb 22, 2012 - 11:05pm PT
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Hey there guys-
Thanks for that write-up Hamish. I've tried that crux finger pitch on GL some years back and got totally shutdown. The piece that you wrote has really fired me up to go give the whole route a look. Maybe I'll recruit Sonnie for the mission. :)
It seems to me that those early '90s ground up efforts were the high-water mark of that sort of granite climbing. It excited me when I was a kid, and it still does now. Hopefully we can all meet up one of these days soon and drink a beer.
All the best,
will
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 23, 2012 - 12:10am PT
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I was somewhat under the impression that all those corners were expanding to the point that most of the pieces would pull out in the event of a free climbing fall.
Don't forget that the Split Pillar and the Sword are expando pitches too if you nail them and no one thinks twice about plugging in a cam. Those fixed pins in the photo are nearly 1/2 inch angles, thats a cam placement for sure. A cam will also expand ...
Peter Croft and Greg Foweraker continued the Ten Years After line, joining it from the top of the left side of the Sword. This immediaty became the way to complete TYA. I forget their name for it or who climbed it next from the TYA approach. I honestly can't remember too many details from our ten years after ascent but I recorded that Mike Beaubien and I did the second complete ascent so whomever did the first would have had to have done it before July of '82 although Grinning weasel is not 10 yrs after, and if gf and pc pioneered the finish, who got on it before Mike and I but after gf ? Beaubien would know.
I am strongly against trading a classic nondeath nail up wall like 10yr for a bolted free climb.
A good number of hard core Yosemite pioneers learned their skills on the Chief on routes like this. Squamish has proven itself over and over again as a supplier of top quality talent and it's because of the diversity of opportunity the Chief has to offer in terms of hardening the aspirant. We must preserve some of these classic opportunities. In fact I would definitely do the route again as an aid climb.
Station bolts, yes, but thats it boys, please make this an example of harmony between the disciplines of free vs aid, not another ego driven travesty like what Dean did to the Black Dyke.
Welcome Will !
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 23, 2012 - 12:12am PT
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This looks sick! I wonder if those pins would hold a fall? I have my doubts, I generally don't like to, or condone the idea of replacing pins with bolts. But I wonder if replacing just one with a free climbing bolt, so a falling leader doesn't rip the entire pitch would be acceptable. What do others think on this kind of issue? I would like to hear what you have to say.
You'll undoubtedly open a big can of worms with that one... Consensus will be impossible, so here's my $.02 to ad to the BS pile
If that awesome looking pitch is accessible via free climbing, and actually leads to more climbable terrain, and if it is truly so expanding that it couldn't keep a cam in it under the shock load of a falling climber, then you may have reached the point of justifying the dreaded "BOLT BESIDE THE CRACK" Nooooooo!!!
There are certainly other examples of routes like that, even in strongholds of traditional ethics like Yosemite. Wheat Thin comes to mind for one. I've climbed a few others, but I can't think of the names.
If you ever want to have a dangle from long lines off of Bellygood to check it out, let me know. I'm always up for that kind of exploration. (My bolting on lead ends mid-5.10, so you're on your own in that department!)
I'm going to go put my old computer on life support so I can dig up some photos to share.
K
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 23, 2012 - 12:31am PT
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Hi Will.
Judging by the videos I've seen of you guys climbing, I don't think your group will be having too much trouble with genus-loci.
You guys will likely use double ropes and run the first 2 pitches together. Then you'll do the same with pitches 3 and 4.
Then you'll grab the long rope and lead the 5th pitch as an approach to the underfling pitch.
I wouldn't put it past you guys at all.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 23, 2012 - 12:35am PT
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True, true...
Maybe if they layback it hard enough, it'll just break off, taking the whole debate with it.
(I just keep telling myself that's why I don't try to free 5.15q routes that used to be aid test pieces. All that controversy is bad for my complexion. I'll stick to 5.10 dirt troughs.)
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 23, 2012 - 12:58am PT
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Be creative young men, and get up on 10yrs with a hundred meter rope to minimize the shock load concerns off of stations higher up. Belay from the traverse at the same height as the top of the Left side and climb from there to Perry's lieback in one pitch. No new protection bolts needed my friends ... :)
Of course Chief would have grabbed to opportunity to bag the 1st complete ascent ... what was I thinking ? Duoh !
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micro_marc
Trad climber
Squamish
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Feb 23, 2012 - 01:10am PT
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cool, a lot of the stories in this thread have been super inspiring, just can't wait for spring and some dry weather to actually go climbing, not just talk about climbing. 100m ropes is getting pretty creative....
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 23, 2012 - 01:12am PT
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In a day Bruce ? That sounds really cool.
gf sez:
Now folks lets try to keep politics, religion and the climbing equivalent of throwing a pork chop into a synagogue; adding bolts to existing routes, aid or not, clear of this thread-I'm not sure consensus will be achieved......
But gf you publicly proposed chopping Perrys lieback bolts on stage last Saturday night during your introduction for Kruk. And now you dont want to be political ? Uhm this is inconsistent behaviour
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 23, 2012 - 01:23am PT
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Ok, here's some pics from the late 90's. Sorry the colours are so blah, my slides weren't always cared for in the best way.
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MH2
climber
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Feb 23, 2012 - 01:31am PT
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"Time eventually positions most photographs, even the most amateurish, at the level of art."
in On Photography
Susan Sontag
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 23, 2012 - 01:46am PT
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Big Jim asked me to write some kind of solo story and I can't really come up with much. There I was, I did it, I lived, how hard do you want me to beat my chest?
One fine squamish day, back about 50 years (well, 20-25 anyway), I was on a roll. Fresh off a j.t. trip where 98% of the pitches have easy scrambles to get back down. I'd also scored this great pair of (used) five-tennie runners/climbing shoes. It was my first footwear with the five-ten sticky rubber and they were great. A little funky because they were like a runner, low cut etc.. I was loving them. Hike up and climb; all with one pair of shoes. Just had to rub them clean at the base of each route if one was in squamish.
Early season in those flinstone days meant there was no one around. I mean no one. I climbed a bunch at murrin, a pitch at nightmare, then down to the malemute for a couple primo pitches, then up to the base of the chief for more thrills.
I blitzed up the trail and did Ander's crack (it had a different name back then; not fitting here), then back over and up apron-strings. Nice little hike down the flake backside trail and I'm at the base of exasperator.
I'd climbed that first pitch by myself a few times before but never the second. I headed up and figured I'd just have to see how I was feeling at the end of the first pitch.
Well those runners were sticking like glue in the cold weather and I was feeling great. How bad can it be up there? I started making my way up there. Those shoes were working great, glomming (is that a word?) onto everything. Soon enough I'm sitting up at the top on that little tree.
I actually sat there for a long time, absorbing the remoteness and lack of anything around... like people. I remember thinking how nice I had had it in j.t., all those beautiful routes and never any stress about downclimbing.
Fortunately I learned from Peter (Croft) the first rule of climbing alone was to make damn sure you could climb down whatever you were climbing up. I kept sitting there, on that little tree, with all sorts of thoughts running through my head. Memories of trying to lead the first pitch on my first trip to squamish, when I was 13. I didn't have a hope and only made it twenty feet before lowering off some stopper called a taperlock.
Eventually it was time to face the music and all that downclimbing was just fine. Those shoes were a breakthrough and my head was in the right place for that deep, mental challenge.
Is that on the right track, Jim? Were your fingers sweating?
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 23, 2012 - 02:17am PT
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Jim have you been drinking tonight ?
Edit downthread: Anders please - no masterbation stories - thanks
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 23, 2012 - 02:25am PT
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I'm greatly enjoying all this, and taking lots of notes. And glad that Will has now joined us as a poster. But we may be misleading our Yankee friends, with the relative absence of slander. Perhaps as guests we're on our best behaviour or something?
A modest climber, with much to be modest (quiet) about. My sort of motto. But I've had a few adventures and misadventures, some soloing. A good friend once said soloing was somewhat like masturbation - most do it, but not something to talk about in polite company. (In other words, you should do it for yourself only.) But maybe I could tell a few stories...
Anyway, it's nice that you like all my new avatars. They take some work, especially the hamish f one.
ps I sent Peter an incomplete avatar/name summary, at least for those who frequently post to Canadian threads. A guide, of sorts. If anyone else needs it, just ask. IMHO, legitimate posters who choose to use an avatar deserve their privacy, and so I very rarely use anything but their avatar or first name in public.
pps Does the Split Pillar and/or Sword expand under normal activity? I first did it in 1974 with Steve Morgan, about 1/2 pins, 1/2 nuts. Probably one of the later parties to use a significant number of pins. We didn't notice any expansion.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 23, 2012 - 03:38am PT
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I can't help thinking the killer mission will be the linkup and of course the inevitable onsight of GL to underfling and then the chief traverse , fully worthy.
Don't forget about starting it off with Los Zapatos. That would be a nice spicy appetizer for the rest of the slab of meat.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 23, 2012 - 10:06am PT
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I'm thinking Jim and Anders are right; these solo stories aren't going to work out. I'm just going to be spinning the same thirty words around and around.
If I could get a hold of g.f.'s vocabulary, I might be able to make it more interesting...
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 23, 2012 - 10:08am PT
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Now that's a story. Oh man, really glad you're still with us Jim.
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Feb 23, 2012 - 10:56am PT
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great thread. gotta hear the caboose solo story. wrote this somewhere else on st. 1989 when i'd lead <10 routes I got on that one with a rack of nuts. Got super tired placing a few and, silly from the effort, punched it to a lone pin. Was so blown at the pin that lowering there did not occur to me. only option in addled brain was continuing to lieback. I watched my fingers uncurl when my feet were maybe 6 feet above the pin and my belayer caught me a few feet above that ramp. My nuts (just the ones in the rock) held though, through the sideways pull. Bailed.
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Feb 23, 2012 - 11:57am PT
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fair enough, thanks Jim.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Feb 23, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
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Tami, where what??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2012 - 02:25pm PT
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Please oh Please don't chop the bolts on Perry's or any of the aid bolts! I wanna finally get up there this summer and if that happens ain't no way I'll be getting up without my jumars and a ropegun. Or placing a few bolts I guess :)
As to adding bolts to aid pitches it's not really my place to say, but maybe an extra bolt off to the side of the belay, bag hanger style could double as a first protection bolt?
Kris- Wow! thanks for the pics! FA of UE left, I love that pitch!
Hamish F- That list you posted made my fingers sweat. It would be a good day for me to lead all those pitches!
Luke posted a nice little video of him on Wrist Twister this morning.
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Wrist-Twister-The-Slowest-Recorded-Ascent/t11354n.html
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 23, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
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Not only insight on how not to climb, but also quite a thorough example of how not to belay..
I'm going climbing; Peace
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MH2
climber
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Feb 23, 2012 - 02:59pm PT
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from post #733:
my head was in the right place for that deep, mental challenge
Going into length about solos would be wrong. What Hamish did say was good - enough details for us to know what he did, no unnecessary adjectives, important advice about downclimbing, and that last hint about mental state.
It's a kind of risky and brave thing to write for an audience you may not know, and I'm sure glad that Hamish has made the effort. I only know him by reputation going back to the 80s and have huge respect for his climbing, but his willingness to chip in to this discussion has added a new sort of respect.
Hope he doesn't quit while he's ahead, though!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 23, 2012 - 03:38pm PT
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Well, speaking of soloing and Squamish, I guess I should come clean about a little route from a few years ago. Kind of inspired by things like the Master's Edge and other gritstone climbs in England. Grappling and pressing up the edge of a corner, maybe even a bit of laybacking. I was a bit fitter then, and it was pretty airy and energetic, but a pleasant outing. Kind of a nuisance with two ropes for rappelling, but I didn't want to bother continuing up the Sword - left something for Scott. And downclimbing the bolt ladder on the Grand is such a pain.
You could protect it by leading on two ropes, and placing gear in the cracks to each side. No need for bolts - leave it pure. Might need two belayers, though. Anyway, it would be sad if someone went and retro-bolted the thing, thinking it'd never been climbed. "Leave nothing but rubber and chalk prints, take nothing but photos" - that was my motto. So this is a world exclusive.
It must be pretty hard by modern standards - the handstand dyno took a bit of thought. But it's all there, as Marc says - mono doigts galore. I admit I mini-traxioned it once or twice, to clean off a bit of loose stuff, so it was a headcase point - a true on-sight ascent is still waiting. Have at it!
Anyway, it may provide a nice variation for people on Genius Loci and such, sort of a direct indirect. I decided to call it the Outside Edge, which may be symbolic of something or other.
What! You say that hamie and tricouni did it in 1967! No way!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 23, 2012 - 04:54pm PT
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Oh Lord, pass me some of those big words. They're awesome.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 23, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
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I went for a ripper mnt. bike ride today and was feeling a little too good. This is often when things go wrong and before I knew it, I crashed. It hurt. Actually, it hurt so much I had to lie there, in the bush, for awhile.
That's all part of the sport and if you want to play, you're gunna pay. Feeling a little cold and not so comfy on my little moss and dirt patch, I got to thinking more about solo stories.
I try to spread the news as much as possible to friends about how great mtn. biking is but at the same time, I completely understand anyone who would rather not. It's a harsh learning curve, especially for us older folk, and when you crash it can really hurt.
Bla-bla-bla, that got me thinking I'd better hold off on any solo stories. I certainly don't want to plant that seed in anyone's head. Solo rockclimbing is for a tiny, tiny, percentage of the group, and speaking only from an "odds" point of view, the less people doing it, the better.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Feb 23, 2012 - 07:04pm PT
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/weaksauce trend in the commentator set is the "How Big" question, as in
"How big was it for your side to score first?" with, of course, endless
meaningless variations possible.
I always imagine the athlete responding with widespread hands, "It was
THIS BIG!"
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Feb 23, 2012 - 08:15pm PT
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More stories please!
I hiked up to the top of Squamish with friends and smoked some dope back in spring of 1969.
Crawled out to peer over the edge at the top.
Scary!
Haven't been back to Squamish since, but I do appreciate the area.
Started technical climbing in Idaho that same summer.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 23, 2012 - 09:42pm PT
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Re: Soloing
I've had people ask me if Honnold inspired me to start soloing. The answer is no. I started to solo before I even knew who Honnold was. The only reason I ever did it in the first place is because it was a beautiful day out, and I could find no one at all to climb. Tried everyone in my address book, people on Squamish Climbing, got nothing. I just decided I was going to go up by myself, because there was no way I was not climbing that day.
I actually ran into another guy by himself up there, and afterwards we came down and did some routes in the Bluffs together.
I would rather climb something hard with a partner rather than solo most days. Sometimes I just want a break though, and to get some mileage.
I didn't start because someone 'inspired' me, or for any reason other than myself. It was a very personal decision.
For me, I don't try to talk about it as a means of showing off. I'll mention something I did if I was stoked on it. Same way any other climber would speak of the route they just onsighted, or the project they just sent. Is that wrong?
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 23, 2012 - 10:13pm PT
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Jim that quote is priceless!
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 23, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
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Words to (hopefully) live by ;)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 24, 2012 - 01:27am PT
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(Not many fish biting today - darn!)
Well, I believe that all climbers solo sometimes - it's part of the territory. You climb, you solo. Of course, some consciously seek it out, and do aid walls, lots of moderate free climbing, or in a few cases free solo hard climbs. But we all do it, to some extent. The important thing is to know when we're doing it, understand why we're doing it, and adjust the risk/reward balance accordingly. Eyes and brain open and working.
My comment/quote upthread was somewhat tongue in cheek - in fact, arguably climbing shouldn't be spoken about in polite company, let alone soloing.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 24, 2012 - 03:59am PT
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Hi Hamish,
The fact that you soloed & down climbed exasperator in the most primitive guide tennies is just mind blowing, haha what an awesome day that must have been! Thanks for the inspiring stories!
this whole thread is awesome reading while the rock is soaked!
Ryan
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 24, 2012 - 08:09am PT
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QFT on each point there MH.
It is too early for a young person like myself to function......
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 24, 2012 - 08:38am PT
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Grug - did Canada actually give you the boot? Or are you being weird? If so, I didn't realize the border agency knew that Aficionados of the Wyde were persona non grata :-D
The worst part was, I was thinking I was doing myself a favor bringing up the Wyde stuff. When things weren't looking good, I thought that maybe name dropping Pipeline at Squamish would MEAN something to this angry customs agent. Apparently it did, but in the opposite way I was hoping.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 24, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
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Well here is one suggestion... don't solo anything for photos.
One day, a couple of generations ago, Peder asked me if I'd solo clean crack so he could get a picture. Oh yah, I'm sure I could pull that off. I had climbed that pitch alone several times but not since the previous season and we hadn't even climbed at the malemute for weeks, if not months. The plot thickened up a little when the Bear informed me he wanted the steam train in the background. Hmmm., I thought. That sounds a little like, climb-on-command. Oh well, how bad could it be.
We knew the Royal Hudson plowed through squampton at about one o'clock so we went down early for some warming up. I wanted to lead that thing just to make sure I was going to be up to the task.
The three of us headed down; Peder, Eddie, and myself. Poor little Eddie had to be tied up at the base of caboose as he was going to be the only one on the ground when that train rolled by. I led it, felt fine, then I followed it to yank the gear out. Still felt fine. I hung a rope off the top of caboose and rapped off.
One o'clock was getting closer so the Bear jugged up the fixed rope and started mucking with his camera. I hung out on the railway tracks, jogging on the spot to keep warm. This went on for a little while and I remember getting a few butterflies. I also had to take care not to get my rock shoes in the oil-related spew that was all over the wooden ties.
Holy Sh#t, here comes the train. It was a ways off but the Bear wanted me on the crux as it came by so I figured I'd better just climb as fast as I could.
Things are going pretty well, I'm a little rushed but feeling good. I'm just approaching the crux and suddenly that thundering mass of steel comes hauling around the corner. Oh man, I had no idea it would be so earth-shattering. I'm launching into the crux, the train is railing by, and the noise is killing me. Suddenly it all seems too much and I decide to bail.
I reach down and start trying to work my fingers in the jam but it's not feeling very good, at all. A little more chalk, but that's not helping. Somewhere across the wall, Peder is shooting a whole roll, Eddie is down at the base, probably as scared as I am, due to the goddamn train, and here I am, having a bit of an epic of my own.
I've given this downclimbing thing almost everything I had and I'm starting to feel pretty pumped. All I had to do was make it through the crux and then the jams improved drastically. Getting close to the reserve tank, I plowed on ahead and cranked my way up there.
Peder and I returned to the base, joyfully untied Eddie and we all hung out there for awhile; two idiots and a dog. Eddie was giving us that look...maybe you guys should consider full time employment?
I picked my arms up off the gravel and we got out of there.
No more soloing for photos.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 24, 2012 - 01:56pm PT
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I promise; no more solo stories.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
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Peder where are you? I tried to find a copy of this iconic photo to link but alas to no avail. Anyone else seen one on the net?
Hamish f- I wouldn't mind. It's not like you are glorifying it by acting like it was no big deal. Have you thought about free U-Wall yet?
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MH2
climber
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Feb 24, 2012 - 02:56pm PT
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Well, in the telling it was hilarious.
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Feb 24, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
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great story. kinda goes to the general feeling of when you get off your rhythm as well, which certainly applies to roped climbs. see Walleye's story about a butterballs solo gone almost wrong for a photo--sweaty but hilarious. And involving one of the best ever YV climbers. Didn't a famous guy once bail from a crescent arch solo? (sorry, this is supposed to be about squamish.) These stories are invaluable, I think. Plus, text on ST can't come close to the vids out there for "influencing kids."
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 24, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
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A few skeptics are apparently saying - we won't name names - that the Outside Edge is imaginary, a figment of my imagination. Some that I couldn't solo the backside trail let alone Cat Crack. Just because I was found wandering disoriented around Psyche Ledge, days after leaving, muttering about ice runnels and the Fissure of Conkwest, and demanding to be taken to the Tastee Freeze. Are climbers no longer to be taken at their word? Is nothing sacred?
So I'm planning to return this summer with a grappling hook and rocket, to repeat the route. While there, I'll install a line of bolts for the lesser mortals who simply aren't man, woman or cat enough for the climb. That'll show them, eh.
The Bear has a copy of the Clean Crack/Royal Hudson/Hamish poster on the wall at home. Seems pretty delicate for a solo. When we used to climb there, especially in the Caboose area, we'd always freeze when the train was coming. Made the earth shake.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 25, 2012 - 12:08pm PT
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I think I'm with Tami on the catnip theory.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 25, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
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Top shelf stories here...thanks Hamish.
Racking up for a not often repeated wall as we speak, the kid and I are going on an adventure....
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 25, 2012 - 12:53pm PT
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Y'all are just jealous of my brilliant, visionary climb. And I neither smoke nor inhale, catnip or anything else - Loki won't let me. But don't worry, the new bolts will allow all of you to climb the route, plus I'll make them really long, so they hold the Pillar on the wall. I saw some really good bolts near Porteau that look just the ticket - it shouldn't be too hard to get them out. And then you anti-tree yahoos will stop fantasizing about chopping down the lovely cedar near the bottom of the Pillar. If the Pillar is going to fall, it'll fall - a shrubbery that's well away from it won't make any difference.
Somewhere I have newspaper clippings from the first ascent of the Northwest Passage. Fred and friends did like new lines. There have long been rumours of a second ascent by climbers from Seattle, but no more. I wonder how much of the route is overwritten by later climbs?
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micro_marc
Trad climber
Squamish
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Feb 25, 2012 - 12:56pm PT
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When I was a kid I was scrambling around on a road cut by a train track, I was probably only ten or fifteen feet up the equivalent of a 5.2, but a train came rolling by and I vividly remember being terrified as the rock began to shake. I can only imagine how you felt experiencing that at the crux of 'Clean Crack' Hamish. The photo must be spectacular.
MH, put those long bolts in the pillar quickly, before an earthquake shakes it off... or someone laybacks it too hard.
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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Feb 25, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
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A train rolled past me when I was seconding clean crack at the crux. I guess I froze in terror, because I sure wasn't moving ANYTHING until that train was gone. That said, I never felt the rock shake.
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MH2
climber
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Feb 25, 2012 - 02:54pm PT
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Not directly a Squamish story, but I'm reminded of the time I was leading some hard route on Castle Rock in the mid-80s, and this train vrroooomed up on my right, de-centering my focus. Didn't know there was an easy route over there. Turned out to be a blond Canadian kid and not an easy route.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 25, 2012 - 08:37pm PT
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Probably have to grid bolt it, and will need a compressor. But while I'm at it, might as well do Up From the Skies (curtains for The Curtains), the Sword, Ten Years After, and a few other expandos. Sure, they'll be less fun, but they'll be there for years to come, providing an extreme adventure. Book your ticket now.
(Hopefully I'll do a better job than Big Mike showed in the first photo on the thread.)
Of course, a 9.0 quake would shake them all off, bolts or not. They're all very temporary features, in geological terms. Look at the effort they put into propping up the old man of the mountains at Cannon (?), and then it just collapsed.
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perswig
climber
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Feb 25, 2012 - 10:04pm PT
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Put down the Scotch, Tami.
Plus, this thread's giving ST a bad name, what with the camaraderie, respect for history and stewardship between generations, the focus on climbing.
Jesus, you can't even have a bolt war properly.
Whatev's...
Dale
(Too gross, Jim. Yer banned.)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 25, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
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Tami, you're a rat abuser. A serial rat abuser at that. Admit it.
And dog pile on Dale! Let's tickle him.
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Matt M
Trad climber
Alamo City
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Feb 26, 2012 - 09:55am PT
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Plus, this thread's giving ST a bad name, what with the camaraderie, respect for history and stewardship between generations, the focus on climbing.
Jesus, you can't even have a bolt war properly.
No kidding! It's why Squamish has a place in my heart climbing wise. Everyone is nice, reasonable and just loves to climb.
One of the better ST Threads! Keep it Up!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2012 - 11:04am PT
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Luke- You shouldn't be so hard on Kyle. You did have a bunch of slack out and he does weigh 135 pounds soaking wet, and got pulled up a significant amount by your fall.
Good luck on the Negro Lesbian!
Kyle also takes excellent pics. Here is one he got of me leading a sport route in the alpenglow at Spanky's wall.
MH- Give up the Cerro Torre joke. A better troll allready had his way with that one.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 26, 2012 - 11:14am PT
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Negro lesbian!?! Youre phuckin high, we"re going for a 7 member team ascent europa, the first recorded 7 person winter team ascent with salmon canon!
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 26, 2012 - 12:02pm PT
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 26, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
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OT - but Trevor Peterson was a local skier and he probably climbed too. This is pretty much the coolest thing I have ever seen - Stolen from facebook ....
Who is WS ?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 26, 2012 - 02:06pm PT
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Matt M says, "Everyone is nice."
What did you expect?
We're Canajun, eh!
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MH2
climber
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Feb 26, 2012 - 04:03pm PT
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How many Michael Ceras does the world need?
And would Trevor be this skiing Trevor, or a different one?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2012 - 06:20pm PT
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TREVOR WOULD DO IT!
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 26, 2012 - 06:28pm PT
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Is it really any wonder a guy who rides his helicopters cowboy style winds up dead ?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2012 - 06:39pm PT
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Avalanches have taken far too many.......
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 26, 2012 - 11:56pm PT
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Hahhahahahaha bumpin for the T MAC! Nice guy, wrong Trevor.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Feb 27, 2012 - 12:37am PT
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Speaking of WS. He's a young turk with a respect for ethics and style. It is good to see a younger generation that is creating a New Golden age of climbing.
Time to pass the torch Tacos, and recognize and smile at the future , besides that, the dude is funny and irreverent.
May we all take ourselves less seriously and with humour.
Tami you need to find a character for Will, perhaps something on the lines of that crazy squirrel from Ice Age.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Feb 27, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
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Ms Knight "you need to find a character for Will".
Pardon my gusto, you don't NEED to do anything.
My mouth tends to run off after a good day climbing and an evening drinking Gentleman Jack. I'll watch my word usage in future. I apologize.
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Slabby D
Trad climber
B'ham WA
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Feb 27, 2012 - 05:01pm PT
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While I'm about a 100 posts late to the "Should we retrobolt the aid lines" seque I feel inclined to add my opinion being one of the handful of troglodites in Squamish who still bumbles around in etriers from time to time.
My opinion being "No, you should not". While they may recieve little traffic in this era, the walls of Squamish still offer incredible stone, amazing exposure and sustained levels of commitment for the few who do still bother. A fat bolt in the middle of an expanding flake would radically change the nature of one of the most ubiquitous features of the Grand Wall lines.
If those lines will go free let it be by the climber willing to step up and engage the rock in its current, committing state. Will Stanhope set the bar for such style on Cannabis Wall (5.13R ?) that hopefully will be emulated and respected by the leading climbers to come.
As for Ten Years After the first corner pitch (with pins) is not particularly expanding. It is the short pitch after that, that will really test ones ability to climb expando flakes (free or aid) and is extremely thin to boot. There is a very vertical, very blank section thereafter that might prevent an all free ascent regardless.
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micro_marc
Trad climber
Squamish
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Feb 27, 2012 - 11:34pm PT
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I agree, Will's ascent of Cannabis Wall did indeed set a bar, and was highly inspirational. I was remember when his write up about it was published in 'Gripped'. When I read the terms; 5.13, slab, holdless, and runout, in the same paragraph I nearly puked in a bucket.
Anyways, sorry to bring up 'ethical, political' type issues in the thread. I sometimes feel that I should not be permitted behind a keyboard. Regardless, I got the answers I was expecting and agree with wholeheartedly, and I appreciate all the input :)
Happy climbing!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 28, 2012 - 02:47am PT
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 28, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
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Whats the preferred shoes for Squamish these days ? I have a pair of TC Pros and a pair of Anasazi Blancos. Both fitted on the comfy side. I noticed Sonnie wears the Anasazi Verdes, and young William the Blanco's which have different rubber than the Verdes ?
Marc - bravo on seeking input and best wishes for future successes done in the gold standard of style set by the likes of Hamish f, Stanhope & company ...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2012 - 03:29pm PT
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Marc- No need to apologize. I want this to be a place of open discussion too, makes things more interesting, as long everyone doesn't just start yelling at each other like all the other threads here..
Preferred shoes? I dunno about the hardmen but I see alot of Mythos, and Muira's around.. I got a pair of Verdes I use for harder stuff..
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Feb 28, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
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Anasazi Verde for slabs, smearing and my crack shoe, my all rounder when I need help from my shoes to compensate for my skill. Absolutely my choice for unpopular hard slab routes and bouldering.
Also in my quiver is a pair of Anasazi Blancos for edging routes, didn't use them much at Squamish, but they seem to work well here on JT face climbs. Even though Will wears them, they don't make me a better climber!
Third and my favourites for Squamish steep sport, when I am climbing well, are my last pair of coveted Sportiva Barracudas. Great at Chek, Pet, Rouges, etc.
I have been accused of being the Imelda Marcos of the climbing shoe world, and own way too many shoes, sadly I have never found a pair of magical shoes to make me climb better.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 29, 2012 - 12:04am PT
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3 words Bruce. Rocky Mountain Altitude.
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 29, 2012 - 12:58am PT
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mtn biking is way too dangerous for me - no way hozea
good answers Rolf - see you in JT !
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 29, 2012 - 02:53am PT
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Caught a couple hardcores on the wall today...
Which wall is it?
Luke and Fish were supposed to be on Negro Lesbian but it was looking a little bit icy.
Speaking of ice, anyone ever climb the Opal Wall smears?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 29, 2012 - 10:20am PT
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Fair enough Bruce; I always have to try. Have a great time in j.t. Climb illusion dweller for me.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 29, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
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No guesses?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 29, 2012 - 12:28pm PT
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Cannabis Wall, Doh!
Must be snowy up there today.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 29, 2012 - 12:37pm PT
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Reports say, yes it is.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 29, 2012 - 01:21pm PT
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Ice climbing on the Black Dyke anyone?
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 29, 2012 - 02:41pm PT
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Hmmmm... I think I see why the Upper Black Dyke always has so much loose rock.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The natural evolution of "mixed climbing" at Squamish will be ice tools and rock shoes at the Pet Wall, in the summer. Lots of routes set already, no pesky heavy clothing or icicles to worry abut.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2012 - 01:46am PT
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Bruce, if you haven't been to the bar in Hyder you ain't been hyderized yet. Make sure you do.. It's something to be experienced. They give you a card and everything :) Preferably on the way home from sledding.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Re: Squamish shoe
It's all about what fits your feet but my favourite(s) is:
Muira lace for cracks & if your shoes are going to be on for a while
Muira velcro for hard & steep single pitch(or hard & slabby) & bouldering, they jam good too if not too small. All rounder for sure.
Testarossa's for hard slab/Pet wall
Had a pair of anasazi's, thought they were pretty good until i noticed everyone who wears them crushes, and has stinky, deformed feet. Not a club i am looking to join, just not my thing -even if i could climb one grade harder in them i would rather the italian comfort!
Rolfr if you like barracudas check out the katana lace, not the best fit for my foot but i liked them a lot, sadly they only lasted me one day since i did dancing in the light with them in august like an idiot & they de-lammed :-(
it was worth it, probably would have sh!t myself without new shoes on that one........
never had mythos, they look comfy.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Best Squamish slab shoes: The ones you believe in.
Over the years I've heard arguments from every side on this one. It all comes down to trusting the shoes you're in. Slab for me is comfy shoes, often with socks, definitely not in anything with a down-turned toe. (Maximum sole contact.)I've tried my tighter shoes on some routes like DITL, but find it terrifying.
How about listing your favorite slab route. Mine is Teetering on the Brink of Madness.
K
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micro_marc
Gym climber
Squamish
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It all depends on the individuals foot, technique, and preferences.
Katana Lace is my favourite for everything, mostly because it fits my foot like a glove and I like the balance between the 'dowturn' and the stiff platform. You can use them sport climbing in Chek, tech-ing your way up the Pet Wall, and front pointing up steep Squamish Slabs.
If you have a narrower foot the Muiras are phenomenal shoes, and the testerosas (sp?) are also unreal!
I know that 5.10 also makes excellent shoes, but they don't fit me well so I can't say much about them unfortunately.
As for a favorite slab route, I loved 'Dancing in the Light' but 'Local Boys do Good' is a close runner up with the knobs everywhere.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Didn't the McNerthney Bro's do that first sometime in the late 70's - early 80's ?
No, I think it was Kitty and ??? Can't remember his name, but I believe he was killed not long after. I think his last name began with a "B" but I could be wrong. And maybe his first name was Mark?
How about listing your favorite slab route. Mine is Teetering on the Brink of Madness.
Mine too.
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MH2
climber
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I like Teetering, too, because it has a crack, because of the way it follows a winding channel through the smoothness above the crack, because of the runout section above that, and because of having done it with G. Smaill.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Which one is teetering on the brink? Is it the arete left of diedre or the arete left of unfinished symphony?
Favorite slab route??? We are too blessed in Squamish with endless slab!
first ones that come to mind:
Local boys
Dancing in the light
White lightning
Banana peel
xenolith dance
this list could really go on and on, hopefully this spring there will be more favourites to add!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Boreal Ballets, resoled with C4, are still the cat's pyjamas for most climbing at Squamish, especially slab climbs.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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o.k., one more solo story, then I'll stop.
About 25 years ago, when a house in squamish was 75,000 instead of 575,000 , I set out to climb angel's crest.
Always on the theme of "more adventure", I hadn't climbed it for a year or two. I had, however, got the scoop from Peter in joshua tree on avoiding the rappel.
Peter was great for those scoops. Some of the funnest climbing days I had were following him around joshua tree, trying to keep up. Of couse I'd sit some routes out, like the one behind the campground, named after some rolling stones song. I can't remember the name, but it was pretty tough.
I did get into trouble, sometimes, through poor decision making and bad route selection. Problem was Peter made all these routes look like they were 5.8, no matter how nasty it got up there.
One day we're walking out of the real hidden valley and he says he wants to go do the classic little butress climb down the way. I'd led that pitch before and remembered it to be pretty insecure. I agreed to the walk down there but I was going to be watching from the desert floor, nice and safe.
Of course he made the thing look like a walk-up so I start feeling the urge to participate. Dumb-ass. For a fairly smart kid, I couldn't believe how dumb I could be sometimes. At about the two-thirds height it became a little rounded and, how about that... insecure. Back and fourth I go, and I can't wrap my head around these friction moves. Peter has finished the pitch and is working his way down the gully beside the climb. He was perched on a boulder, watching me and saying a few prayers at the same time. We were used to that situation, what with him at the top of the scale and me, well, not. I eventually figured it out and padded through those rounded moves. When in doubt, sit it out.
Back to angel's crest. Sorry. I head up there one day for the big adventure; quite excited because I've got the scoop on how to skip the rappel.
I go up that nice crack and then I'm looking at some rather wet face moves. I climb up and feel the holds and reverse back down. Oh ya, that's wet. It seemed wet enough that downclimbing wasn't going to be an option; crank those few moves and we're committed. I'm committed, or should've been a long time ago. I forge ahead and before too long I'm up at the acrophobes. Smugger than smug, I remember Peter saying to skirt around to the right and grovel through at the lower level. I checked over there and it all seemed really loose and exposed. It looked terrifying, really. Maybe he had said go to the left? I explore out to the left and was met with the same troublems, loose, dirty, exposed. Yuck. I headed back over to the nice rock and re-assess the plan. I could call Peter on the cell, in california, but they hadn't been invented yet.
Eventually I lay over the edge of the rappel where I could get a good view of the area. It was actually quite a short rappel, but without a rope, well, not looking good. I looked over to the right and spotted a little potential down climb. Someone is watching over me up here.
I hung off a perfect ledge and kicked a few loose rocks out of the way. A little more prep and cleaning with my feet and soon enough I had a nice little downclimb. It was short and easy. I don't know where Peter went but he had those mountaineering skills, and I didn't. A few more pitches, nice facecrack, nice little chimney, and I was at the top. I kept doing that route for years, always using my little downclimb. Necessity breeds creativity.
Oh ya, I squeezed a couple of long words in there...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
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Wow... Don't stop.. never stop!
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Does anyone know what Andrew Boyd likes to wear for climbing shoes ?
Teetering on the Brink, Yes I remember after a safety meeting in the Apron parking lot with Dean Hart and how much that line stood out like a sore thumb to me. I pointed it out to Dean and we agreed it was a must do.
We made the mistake of inviting Carl Austrom along on one of the scrubbing sessions. We were Horrified as we watched him pre-drill holes in the slab above the Grim Reaper crack during one of the scrubbing missions. He then announced on the day of the climb he was going up there, I was able to get time off and he had invited Jean MCrae along. Dean and Randy were unable to make it. Quite frankly Carl if you are reading this, I still think you are a complete f*#king as#@&%e.
It was supposed to be a Hart MacDonald Atkinson route, but it got Hijacked out from under us by an unethical bastard.
So I am certain the standard "ethic" for Carl Austrom was to pre drill holes on rappel and then claim to have "Placed bolts on lead" on all his slab routes. Some ethic eh ?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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A.B. is constructing what will be one of the best bike trails in squampton. He deserves a lot of beer for his outstanding effort.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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hf
'troublems' a new word for me. an original, or a typo? good combo.
best shoes?
1. Zillertals
2. Kronhoffers
3. Any good mountain boot.
:-) H.
PS What kind of a name is Hamish?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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oh brother, I'm so bad. One more solo-type story just because everyone needs a good laugh, what with all the snow around these days.
I know this is a particularily old story because I was particularily small at the time. There wasn't much of me to absorb stuff like wasp stings, etc..
Peter and I had been getting into the soloing a bit and were enjoying ourselves immensly. I was fourteen or fifteen, so it was around 1980. Peter was the senior achiever and I was in the back, trying to keep up.
On the apron, a new route had just been put up, st. vitis dance. We hadn't done it yet but we figured it was right up our alley, all hand cracks, so we blow off the rope.
Up around the two hundred foot zone, Peter unknowingly climbed over a wasp nest and then, unfortunately, dislodged it with his foot. There's me, little guy jamming hard, and suddenly the nest hits me. The inhabitants weren't very happy.
I'm frozen there, in the classic crack climbers postion, and I'm getting stung all over. Nothing much I can do except take it like a man, or boy, actually. I'm screeching because it feels like I'm getting shot in all parts of my body. There seemed to be loads of those angry killers underneath me so our only route was up. It was a bit of a rough go as I started to swell up all over. My one index finger was useless and same for one of my eyes. On we forged, really happy to get to the top of that one. We counted at least eleven stings and hiked down slowly, as I was down to one eye.
No climbing for a few days after that epic....lots of lemon juice and swimming in the lake at murrin.
Now I'll stop.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The pitch on Angel's Crest above Angel Crack is often and annoyingly wet, and you can't tell until you get to it. It is possible, but not simple, to rappel into the gully from there, or maybe even climb down.
Bob McGown from Oregon was the first to explore what became Teetering, in the later 1970s. I don't know how far he got, but he was going to call it A Slice of Life.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Is it called a duet when you solo with a friend?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2012 - 03:09pm PT
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That's really funny. Especially because that is the most often used reason for not soloing. "I might get stung be a bee!". "Well Hamish Fraser had a whole wasps nest fall on him on St. Vitus and he survived!"
:)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Had the same thing happen to me. Soloing the first pitch of something on the north end of the Apron (had to be something with an easy first pitch, cuz I never soloed anything hard) behind Davey Jones. He got some wasps upset, and I was terrified they'd take it out on me. So I just froze in place and waited.
Eventually they went away, and I lived.
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micro_marc
Gym climber
Squamish
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Drew generally rocks the Testarossa's when he climbs/walks impossibly hard slabs.
I once missed the downclimb on the crest, ended up down climbing some unnerving chimney feature to the left of the rappel. Probably not my favorite climbing experience, but at least there were no wasps.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Are attacks by wasps at Squamish, and in the coast ranges, increasing in frequency? That is, in relation to person-days in those environments?
Do modern route-cleaning practices lead to more encounters with wasps?
I've been attacked several times, and would not want to have that experience while climbing.
(Once I saw some climbers eliminate a wasp nest right in the middle of some climbs at Lighthouse Park. They poured white gas on the rock above, got the nest area nice and wet, then tossed a match on the drip well below and ran. Worked quite well, very spectacular as the nest exploded.)
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Are attacks by wasps at Squamish, and in the coast ranges, increasing in frequency? That is, in relation to person-days in those environments?
Don't know about Squamish, but in the Coast Mountains I don't think they are any worse than they ever were. Seems to vary from year to year.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Hmm, and here I thought Hamish was just another way to say haggis.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jeez guys, I was only kidding. I've had that name for 70 years and counting. Although it's Gaelic, many people think it's German or Jewish, which can be an advantage, or not....... When harassed by persistent touts or other undesirables I often claim to be Russian. "Me Rusky, no spick Ingleese," usually works. Since the touts can never speak Russian, they always go away.
Best slab routes:
1. Snake/Diedre [tied]
2. Slab Alley
3. Gringo-a-go-go [ha ha]
4. South Arete [joke for Anders only]
Hamish M.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Every time we have a big block of dry weather late in the summer the number of Yellow-Jacket wasp nests, AKA ground bees seems to spike. When we have regular wettings of the ground throughout the season, they seem to be far less common.
I've never found any nests while excavating cracks, but I have found several on treed ledges while developing new routes. I usually just try to give them a wide margin unless absolutely necessary to eliminate them. It's hard to run very far after spraying the nest with RAID when you're hangin' on a rope!
K
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MH2
climber
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A suggestion
Last year we were walking off an Apron climb. I noticed something taped to a tree. It turned out to be a hand-written sign pointing downhill saying "BEES!!!" Looking down around my feet, sure enough, bees.
Next time, please orient a warning for passersby as well as climbers.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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I might require a few extra stellas as this quick story is more embarassing than the others.
About twenty five (or thirty) years ago a bunch of us Canucks were hanging out in Yosemite. Gas was cheap, beer was cheap, and we were deinitely cheap, and broke. Boy, we knew how how to have fun though.
I had my heart set on the rostrum and fellow Canuck (and budwieser enthusiast) Randy was keen to join me. I think this was to be my second multipitch climb in the valley, I'd already done the royal arches. Randy was substantially older than me but was nursing a terrible wound on his leg. He'd been impaled by a stick, it had become infected, poor guy was in rough shape.
We head out, hiking down from the highway pullout. We did get a little confused, trying to find that faint little trail, but eventually we got on the right track. Pretty soon we're about half way down, ready for the rapells.
I'm sure I'd asked Peter lots of questions regarding the route but I'm not sure we ever talked about the rapells. I was so convinced we'd climb the route, I only brought one rope. Not a whole lot going on between my ears in those days. We fed our rope through the anchor, tied a knot in the end, and blindly threw it over a big, rounded edge. I hooked up my biner brake and started making my way down.
At the edge I could see down to the end of the rope and it seemed to stop in mid air. Oh well, I guess you're supposed to swing into a station or something. Down I go, looking all around, but nothings really popping out at me. I spot the next rap anchor; it's way down underneath me. This would be a double-rope rapell, you idiot. I'm stuck in space and the options are fairly grim. Randy can't hear me because he's so far back from the rounded lip up there. I try swinging around but there really isn't anywhere to swing to. Eventually I settle for the bat-man plan.
I'm wearing runners, of course, and start hand over handing up the rope, trying to hook my feet on the rope. This trick with the feet isn't really working out very well and it's all taking way too much energy.
Up I go, progress is slow, I'm just starting to scrape at the granite with my feet but, boy, am I ever getting pumped. Too pumped! My poor little arms are busting at their seams and it's all too overwhelming for me. Oh man, I've really screwed this up. There is a massive loop of rope underneath me and the knot is already jammed against my biner-brake.
My good pal Jim has just healed his hands from terrible rope burns and this image is front and center in my pea-sized brain. The other image filling in the rest of my brain is the forces those biners in the biner-brake are about to encounter. I keep telling myself there's no way those biners are going to brake. Is there?
Son of a bi#ch, I'm starting to slide down the rope and my hands are burning already. I let go. Twaaaaaang. Oh my god, it actually held. Lucky guy, sort of. Now I'm hanging in space, back where I had been several minutes earlier. I'm just thrashed from my bat-manning nightmare.
The only other option was to start swinging and try to get way over to the right. Hopefully something would emerge for me. I swung and swung and swung, it took forever but eventually I managed to get on the rock and plant myself in a dirty, steep corner crack. I grovelled up that corner crack, bleeding a lot on my hands, and the whole pitch got more desperate as I got higher. My loop of rope was huge and I was over to the right quite some distance so a fall would have been just terrible. I barely flopped back up onto the ledge where Randy was waiting. We hung out there for awhile, thinking perhaps we should call it good for the day. Beer in the meadows? That was sounding awfully good at that point.
I eventually perked up and left to borrow a rope. Randy stayed at the rapell and I hiked out, drove to camp 4, grabbed a rope from Dean, drove back, hiked down, got a little lost, again, trying to find that little trail. Oh man, I popped out of the bush and was getting over toward elephant rock. Oh geez, just not my day. I backtracked and found the rostrum trail, hiked down and there was Randy, fast asleep.
No problem on the route, but what an epic getting there.
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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PA showed me how to ascend a rope with a half hitch around your foot and one prusik.
Still waiting for the Humpty Dumpty solo epic story Hamish ...
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Another epic story! thanks for the awesome reads hamish, keep them commin
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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(OK, it's not soloing, but it's a story.)
It is May 1973. Yet another rainy spring day in Squamish. Eric and I went up anyway. First we did Sunshine Chimneys - as much of it is in the dry innards of the cliff, that went OK. Then we went to Nightmare Rock, because at least part of the climbs was under overhangs and dry, and also because we'd done Sentry Box (properly, Artificial Land) there and it was known ground.
This is BITGOD, so we had swami belts, a 150' perlon rope, hand-tied etriers, a mixture of (pre-Chouinard) nuts and pitons, hip belays, and hammers. And a copy of Glenn's 1967 guide. We decided to do Big Daddy Overhang, of which there are photos somewhere on this thread. At the time, an aid climb, with a bit of free at the start. Eric had the lead - up a crack on a narrow wall/slab under the overhang, straight right to the edge of the overhang, then up a face crack about 8 m to a belay niche. This took quite a while, but he was dry until he emerged onto the face after the traverse.
So I followed, also using etriers - we didn't have jumars. Communications were non-existent for most of the way. By the time I got to Eric, we were both soaked, and it wasn't clear whether to go right or left. Probably simple if dry, but it wasn't. It looked to me as if you could make an aid move or two to the right, and be at the top of Sentry Box. So I whacked in a bong (my first - from REI mail order), clipped in my slings, and stood in it. While leaning to the right to place the next piece, it pulled. I went flying, and ended up at the lip of the overhang. Eric was eventually able to hold the rope - maybe the water made it slipperier, but also prevented him from burning his hands? But there wasn't much he could do for me. Maybe he tied me off to a prussik or something?
(I was left hanging, 10 m below the belay in mid air and a long way off the ground, so you will be for a while also.)
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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Hee Hee...
Last year at the smoke bluffs I watched a single yellow jacket sting the 2 climbers on either side of me for a total of 5 jabs. Up a pant leg... got slapped at, escaped, flew straight to another victim, and went to town on the arm before nonchalantly buzzing away. I was sitting, and laughing away as chaos ensued. That single bee was a WARRIOR. One sting on a kneecap resulted in 4 rest days for the swelling to go down.
Bug: 5 Climbers: 0
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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trying my best to keep you laughing, Bruce.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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This thread is so awesome, i stopped in @ the Whistler gym today & saw this hanging up in there. Snapped a shot of it with my phone so you all could see. It may be related to a story that was told here earlier..
So awesome!
If for any reason it's not cool that i posted this just let me know & i can tear it down
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Last year we were walking off an Apron climb. I noticed something taped to a tree. It turned out to be a hand-written sign pointing downhill saying "BEES!!!" Looking down around my feet, sure enough, bees.
Next time, please orient a warning for passersby as well as climbers.
Hee-hee, that sign was mine... It was intended not so much for passers-by on their way down, but for folks coming up from Banana Peel, Sparrow, etc. in hopes they would avoid my situation.
I popped up from my ten-zillionth lap up Banana Peel, quickly wipped a cord around the standard, largest tree at the top and leaned back to bring up my partner. After getting all the slack out, putting them on, and finally taking a breath while they were fiddling with a piece of gear below, I look up at the base of the tree I'm anchored to, (for those of you who don't know the spot, you are standing with your face at ground-level to the stump, about three feet downhill), to discover yellow jackets pouring out of a wee hole under the stump and having a parade on my cord anchor! OH FUQ!!! Stay calm.....stay calm... meeeellllloooowwww...
Well it somehow actually worked. I tried to belay without a single quick movement, didn't rock the tree, and pretended to show no fear. I had to warn another passer-by not to touch that tree under any circumstances!!! We snuck off to the left and around the tree, then gave the little partiers a chance to calm down before sneaking my anchor off the tree.
After a lunch break under Boomstick Crack I tiptoed back over and stealthly applied the warning sign from the opposite side of the tree. Sorry, but it was the only piece of paper I had!
K
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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I can't see the Bear getting too peeved about sharing a pic of that poster.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Did somebody say Humpty Dumpty story? Please tell!
That goes with any aiding stories of the harder routes, we all want to read about that gnar!
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Mimi
climber
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Great thread! Thanks for posting those pics. What great looking rock and lines.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Oh god, no wonder I couldn't attract any girls. Those sweat pants look like they were from the $4.00 bin at fields. Oh ya, they were. It's too bad you can't see Eddie at the base; he was the good-looking one.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oh god, no wonder I couldn't attract any girls.
Reminds me of when Sig climbed the three long routes in a day, and got interviewed by some climbing magazine, and they were telling him how amazing he must be to have done that, and he said something like "Yeah, but I still don't have a girlfriend."
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Anders; the suspense is unbearable what happened next!?!
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Smart clothing is important, I've noticed in videos and photos. Trotter always has a freshly pressed short sleeve sport shirt, matching pants, & GQ haircut, looking like he's just stepped off of a super yacht, not out of a Value Village discount clothing store ... we should all take note !
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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I'm sorry but there really isn't any story to tell about humpty dumpty.
The climbing highlight was cleaning the white sickle pitch. That pitch traversed a fair bit and I recall most of my pins falling out except, of course, the one I was at on my jumars.
There was no way I was leaving any pitons behind, as they were mostly borrowed. I tied some extra knots in the rope and gave that pin one good belt with the hammer. Massive pendulum; pretty scary, but clean.
I spent a night up there in a hammock (also borrowed), 15 or 16, overlooking the bright yellow lights of the chemical plant and breathing in that stench from the pulp mill. It was an awesome experience.
The next day, when I hit bellygood, the Chief was there to greet me, with beer. Am I allowed to write that?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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And you think the suspense was unbearable!
So I was hanging there at the end of my fine bright yellow MSR rope. Eric was probably not enjoying the experience either, although he may have tied me off, or found some other way to relieve the pressure. Luckily, I had most of the gear, and had learned about stuff like crevasse rescue. So with the gear I had, I made up prussiks, and climbed back up the rope. I might have climbed the fixed part of the rope, while Eric belayed me - can't remember. Probably passed the prussiks through my swami, to provide a bit of security. Once I could touch the rock, I might even have used some gear.
So eventually I got back to the belay, but we were no further ahead than we'd been. What next?
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Call for a RES-Q Anders!!!!
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MH2
climber
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I recall most of my pins falling out except, of course, the one I was at on my jumars.
Even when, "...there really isn't any story," there is. I'm working hard to imagine any boring climbing Hamish may have done. Nope, can't do it. He sure tells it well.
On the yellow jackets, thanks for the explanation, Scrubber. I blame my imagination for not coming to the aid of my curiosity. Your description of your encounter reminds me of the old days getting to know the wasps at the Gunks. As a climber approached a nest the wasps would be coming and going about their business but as you got closer they would start to sit on the nest. A little closer and all the ones on the nest would point their heads at you. Then when they started to raise up their rear ends and vibrate their wings, it was the last warning.
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Hamish didn't mention the death flake on Humpty Dumpty that was poised above the first belay over the roof which fell out into his lap while he was cleaning the hooking pitch. Should that flake or even whats left of it now break off again it will slice and dice your partner and belay station 60 feet directly below. Its the type of feature that expands, but never contracts back to it's orignal position.
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Hamish, I think Peder had that yellow golf shirt for photos. I think I wore it once on Exasperator for him. (with rope!) My pants were purple MEC RAD pants IIR. So eighties.
Keep the stories rolling! So good.
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Haha Bruce!
No man or sled left behind on our watch. Wait till we get the 800's!
Wx: S-1, OC, L from the SW, Zero degrees
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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So there we were, in the niche just below the top of Big Daddy. (Not sure why it's called Big Daddy - Hamie? FA Jim Baldwin and Big Jim, 1962.) We were wet and miserable, and had just survived a bit of trauma. We didn't know how to finish the climb - I believe there are now bolts there, which begs the question. We had one 150' rope, and weren't sure whether it would reach the ground, doubled. Our niche featured a flake/horn, which offered a good anchor for rappelling. It wasn't particularly late, which was good, in that we didn't have a light, and no one knew we were there. The first part of any rappel would be down the crack, but then into free space. This was before the days of diaper slings let alone harnesses, so we could only body rappel. What to do?
And no, Kris, rescue wasn't an option. The Mountain Rescue Group could not have been there in any realistic time, and nobody else was climbing that day. It was raining, eh? Even if it'd been sunny, there'd have been few other climbers around. Plus who'd want to be rescued, in such a situation?
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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So for Hamish F. the main issue of concern on Humpty Dumpty was being under age and then handed a celebratory beer at the summit ?? hmmmm ... ok
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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yes right from the dangling deadly expando razor frisbee flake poised 60 ft. over the belay is a hook throw for the next move to the humpty dumpty feature itself. really nasty situation for both climbers
fall from the hook toss you separate the razor flake, it kills your belayer, and chops the station, then you die.
I would not be surprised if the Nostradamus prediction, regarding a subsequent ascent in 2012 triggers a cataclysmic chain of events initiated by the demise of the precarious HUmty DUmpty block itself which results in the end of the world as we know it, and ultimately the destruction of the entire known universe, is true.
Very black HU-DU magic.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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A three way conversation - some talking about Humpty Dumpty (named for a flake, which sat on the wall), some about Cerberus (named for the hellhound guarding the gates of the underworld), and some about our little fiasco on Big Daddy. Which isn't much more than a one pitch climb, by the highway just north of Murrin Park.
Despite their experience with expando horrors on Up from the Skies, Daryl and Eric were convinced that the upper part of what became Cerberus had long grooves. So they went to Kits Marine, and had a bunch of copperheads made up - at least 50. A huge wad, which Daryl was quite proud of. Some of them were double, as he thought that the more metal that was in contact with the rock, the better. Then they discovered the big upper flake where yes, Daryl did some cowboy stuff. I'm not sure if they used any copperheads at all. Thinking back, it surprises me that Eric didn't try to free some of it.
Big Daddy. I volunteered to rappel first. We put a sling around the flake, and carefully let our 150' (= 75' rappel) rope down. We might even have tied the ends together. It was my first rope, of which I was quite proud. The centre wasn't marked (cheapo Penberthy), and so, based perhaps on Freedom of the Hills, I put a bit of tape at the middle. Thinking it would be handy to have more markers, I also marked the 1/4 and 3/4 points. Nerdy over-achievement. So off I went on body rappel, with a prussik to my swami. (As I'd just prussiked up the rope, the idea was that if the rope didn't reach the ground, I'd come back up.) Then, swinging in midair maybe 10 m above the ground, and well away from any rock, the prussik jammed on the tape. (No knife, probably.) Luckily, the previous year I'd solved a similar predicament in the Adamants. I got prussiks on the rope, clipped etriers into them, stood up, loosened the jammed prussik, and was soon down to terra firma.
The incident in the Adamants was rather more dramatic, and Leif was sure I was going to kill myself.
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Better yur dotter locked up under key and chain drinking home brew than out at night with her friends. Good parenting Tami one cannot be too overprotective in the 21st century urban environment
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I forgot to mention that my prussiks were made of webbing. I only had one bit of perlon, which was the one to my swami. So I wrapped slings around the rope, as many times as I could, and clipped etriers to them. Although the rope was wet, it was doubled, and they gripped OK, although they slipped a bit when I weighted them. (I was a bit lighter then. Daryl said I was.)
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Hey Anders
Sorry, can't help you with the name. Big Daddy just sounded right. It would likely be called Big Mutha, or somesuch if first climbed today.
I have attached a photo of me leading the 2nd asc. The crux was at the lip, where I used a soft Simond knifeblade, which went in about 1/4 of an inch, and necessitated a tie-off loop, and great care. I don't remember anything about the anchor or rap point. My very able partner was Nails' brother, Bob. If the photo looks familiar, it was used in Dick's Coast Range guide.
Not sure what you mean by a 'body rappel'?Photo by Bob Woodsworth.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Umm, Dulfersitz, in German? You know, rope down the hole, around the tree, and back? Or is that the "guides' knot"? Something like that, anyway.
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Hamish F., remember when you did a free ascent of Big Daddy, the funky double rope technique you used, which made for a scary follow for me as the second ? Nice onsight ... & also amazing that I was even able to follow it.
Sonnie freed the undercut arete and called it Sugar Daddy - there is a video somewhere ...
Trotter in action below:
^^^http://sonnietrotter.com/2010/05/25/joshua-tree/^^^
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Thanks, Bruce - is that your photo? Where are you - en route somewhere?
So when I fell, I was about 2 m up and right from Sonnie's position, and could reach the rock. When I got stuck on the rappel, I was well behind and somewhat below him.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mighty
Maybe I missed something, but why not use a 6 carabiner system, or even a sling with a single carabiner and shoulder friction?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sorry for the thread-drift here, but I can't resist.
Body wrap, dulfersitz, whatever. Reminds me of the time Arnold Shives & I rappelled off the Granville Street Bridge in broad daylight our first longins free rappel .... I've still got the crotch-burn scar as a memento of that.
On the other hand, also reminds me of a time when 4 of us were escaping from a 10,000-foot first ascent in the Coast Mtns. We'd tied a 120-foot climbing rope onto a 200-foot 1/4" line so we could do raps approaching 160 feet (time was of the essence). Anyways, Dick and another were down the first rap and setting up the anchor for the next. The 3rd person was trying to get his carabiner brake-bar system set up, and taking lots of time about it. I said, "you know, there's going to be a knot down there and your system is going to get hung up on it, and you are going to die there because you won't be able to unjam things. Then I'll die because I can't downclimb this stuff. Put that junk away and just do a body wrap."
He looked at me and said, "What's a body wrap?"
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2012 - 02:25am PT
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Wow too much to comment on. Thank god for my ATC, rappelling is much more fun these days :)
Hamie- Awesome picture. Thanks!
Anders- Big daddy left you hanging eh? Nice Stooooooorrrryy. Excellent dramatic effect. Please continue with the Adamants epic post haste :)
Hamish- HAHAHAHAHA.. halarious! I was saved a similar epic on Merci Me when a girl told us we needed two ropes to rappel, before we left flake ledge. She lent us her rope (she was decending) so we could climb the dyke.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Body wrap?
or
Body rap?
or
Body wrap rap?
Ashlyn or Arnie?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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thanks, glad you like those stories. Pretty much the same 30 words each time, just tangled up and strewn over different locations.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Turns out Bmacd is NOT the ultra hardman he led us to believe he was.. He's just a little fraidy-cat scurd of a passive belay station.. nyuk nyuk nyuk
I am sure glad for the invention of air traffic controllers, body rappels seems quite off-putting.. Why didnt you guys use munter hitchs? I just learned how to properly tie a munter the other day, thanks to fishboy.
Speaking of fishboy;
Note the massive penji he's set up for should a hook blow out..
Then we got scared and decided we shouldnt put our selves in to an un-retreat-able position with a snow storm in the forecast, and we ran home like the lightweights we are..
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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We didn't use a diaper sling, or a carabiner brake, a Munter, or a single-carabiner system because we didn't know how to do them, and probably didn't have enough gear. We'd read about these exotic techniques in Basic Rockcraft, but not actually tried them. (Maybe Eric had, as he'd taken a Seattle Mountaineers course, and IIRC even had an SMC brake bar.) So we had to body rappel. We used fairly heavy army surplus type clothing then, and with care a body rappel is OK - although it was probably the first time I'd done a free hanging one.
Later that summer Steve and I tried a carabiner brake for the first time, having thoroughly read up on it, and maybe experimented in the garage or a tree or something. I had a hand-sewn harness, based on a VOC (REI?) pattern. For the first time we made sure it was on a low-angle cliff, so that if it didn't work we'd be OK.
Glenn: "120-foot climbing rope onto a 200-foot 1/4" line" - was this with Leif? My Adamants story has a similar thread.
ps With two named Bruce and two named Hamish posting, this could get confusing.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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MH
You want confusion? My middle name is Bruce--so make that three!!
HBM
PS Six carabiner brakes? That was so 60s!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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You can't all have ordinary but distinct names such as Håkon, Magnus, Øyvind, Knut, Harald, Ivar, Eirik, Leif, Ingard, Kjell, Aslak, Sigrid, Kristin, and such? Show some imagination, eh?
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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thekidcormier I urge you for the sake of your own existence, in fact for the well being, of the future of mankind itself, do not attempt the HU-DU black majik. Lest the integrity of the 3 geometric dimensions as we know them, be forever altered ....
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lucander
Trad climber
New England
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This thread is great! Thanks for all the pictures and stories. My wife and I have 3+ weeks at Squamish in July/August this summer, this thread intensifies the anticipation. Your crag looks like one of the neatest places in the world.
D. L.
Shawangunks, NY
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Tell us about your trip to the adameNts Anders!
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lucander
Trad climber
New England
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I must have a lot to learn about speaking "Canadian," I don't have a clue what the hell you just said.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2012 - 08:06pm PT
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lucander- he was talking to mighty hiker aka anders. Squamish is pretty awesome.. a mini valley.
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lucander
Trad climber
Shawangunks, New York
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Sorry 'bout that, guess I'm more of a self-centered New Yorker than I thought.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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It was a dark but not very stormy night. No shots rang out. (Sorry, Ron.) We were descending from the northwest face of Mount Austerity, in the Adamant Range. A pleasant ice climb, about six pitches, including a steep exit couloir. Leif led us up it. There were four dramatis personae - Leif, Henry, Ric, and your narrator. We were about a week into a two week trip, and at that point based at the original (pre heli-skiing) Fairy Meadows hut. I was then 15, and had been climbing for just over a year.
Leif Patterson was then one of the most experienced climbers living in Canada. (Although born in the US, he was a Norwegian citizen. Leif and others did the first alpine style ascent of Denali's west rib that spring.) He and his family moved to Golden a few years earlier, and built a lovely house to the south of town. However, there wasn't a lot of demand there for people with doctorates in math from MIT, and he was considering options, including "guiding". Leif always made time to take inexperienced and young people climb, liked teaching, and thought there might be possibilities. Guiding in Canada then had little credibility as an occupation - it was essentially a few Europeans stuck in the past in the Rockies. Twenty years later it became another story, although as Leif had strong ideals, he might not have been entirely comfortable with some of the associated compromises.
In any event, leaving aside might have beens, Leif took the three of us into the Adamant Range for two weeks, and put enormous effort into making it work and helping us have a good trip. Which eventually led to us being perched in the dark on a bump on the descent route named the Ironman, from which a rappel was mandatory.
To be continued...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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munters tend to twist the rope.
A couple of years ago I asked Jim Nelson to order some kind of belay device for me. He expressed doubt about the need for not only the kind of belay device I was asking him to order, but for any at all. Why not just use a munter and save both money and weight.
I said to him what you said above.
He didn't say much other than that a munter wouldn't twist ropes if properly used, but the way he said it left me feeling like the stupidest noob ever to walk into a climbing shop.
Now for those who don't know him, Jim is... Well, put it this way: If God needed a partner to make sure he didn't get into trouble on an alpine climb, it would be Jim that he turned to. Others may be more famous, but very few are in his league.
I was too gumbified to ask him for details on the difference between proper and improper use, but maybe somebody here knows?
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lucander
Trad climber
Shawangunks, New York
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Mt. Austerity and the Selkirks look ridiculous - what's the drive time & access from Squamish?
DL
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Too late! Although the telling may take longer than Alice's Restaurant. Should I go to the Group W bench? Or should we put it to a vote?
The Adamants are in the Selkirks, about 100 km north of Roger's Pass. (Golden is now about a ten hour drive from Vancouver.) In those days, you drove north from Golden on the east side of the Columbia River to a point opposite Swan Creek, canoe across, and hike the steep and rough trail. It took some effort, and we had significant adventures in VWs and canoes on our trip. A year or two later the lake behind Mica Dam filled, so that approach was no longer possible. However, by the 1990s logging roads extended up the west side of the lake, and for some time you could drive right to the trailhead, making it a quite reasonable one day hike. (A few girlie men still flew.) Unfortunately, the west side roads weren't driveable the last time I checked, so you'll have either a long boat trip or short helicopter ride.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Who's older the bear or Anders. And where is mr bear hibernating.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Hey, don't look at me. I bumped the Origin of Tube Chocks thread with a fascinating bit of history.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Gf, tami or Peter; did anything eventful go down on the FA of the roman chimney? What style did you guys do it in? fully ground up it with no rappel inspection? Or was there some pre cleaning? Any photos?
Thread drift from stories and photos to Q+A
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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I have attached a photo of me leading the 2nd asc. If the photo looks familiar, it was used in Dick's Coast Range guide.
Well by golly, There you are! Good to know who that is now.
K
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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and the tiny figure in the bottom right-hand photo is......significant pause.........
....................CULBERT111!!!!!1111
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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A Yeti? All I know is that the photo was taken by Glenn. When I open the foldout there are two people on that glacier. Are you going to tell us who the other one is? And who's the guy a few pages earlier smoking his pipe while dangling off the end of his rope in a crevasse?
K
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Scrubber
Both of those figures are Culbert! The panorama is actually two photos stitched together. Nails took the rightside first, and by the time he took the leftside Dick had walked into that frame as well. Pretty cool. If it's your book you can be in it as many times as you like. Dick is also belaying in the first photo of the spire.
The guy with the pipe is some BCMC type. Wild guess=Paddy Sherman? Nails or maybe MH will know.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Both of those figures are Culbert! The panorama is actually two photos stitched together. Nails took the rightside first, and by the time he took the leftside Dick had walked into that frame as well. Pretty cool. If it's your book you can be in it as many times as you like. Dick is also belaying in the first photo of the spire.
The guy with the pipe is some BCMC type. Wild guess=Paddy Sherman? Nails or maybe MH will know.
Hamie is bang-on about the panorama. I was going to upload a bulltweet story about how there were only two of us, but I was hallucinating and I managed to catch the illusion on film - very rare - but there's no point now.
On the spire, Dick is belaying Ashlyn Armour-Brown. It's in the Howson Range. Ashlyn lives in Cambridge (England) and is one of the nicest, kindest people around.
To keep gp happy, I'd better put in a bit of Squamish content. Ashlyn did the FA of Sickle (with my brother, Bob, one of the bolder free climbers of the day) and the FA of the left fork in the South Gully.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Squamish trivia. One winter a large piece of the sickle fell off, and the route had to be re-established at a harder grade. I think that Nails and his brother Bob were responsible for that. For the new version, not the falling off part, of course.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Squamish trivia. One winter a large piece of the sickle fell off, and the route had to be re-established at a harder grade. I think that Nails and his brother Bob were responsible for that. For the new version, not the falling off part, of course.
Yeah, makes you think whenever you are under that sort of unsupported downslab.
FA of the route by Bob and Ashlyn, 1962. In fall, 1965 a big slab of rock came off, changing the route and making it more difficult. I think Bob and I did the FA of the revised route, fall '65 or possibly Spring '66.
Trivia for MH history book: this was probably the first but not the last route at Squeamish to undergo serious remodelling by rockfall.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Regarding the young guns' inquiries about the brothers. The Bear is the younger one, and he was (and still is) a speedy bear. When some of you guys were getting air in your jolly-jumpers, the Bear cranked off the grand wall five times in one day. That's five times down the trail, too. The guy was an animal.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I'm the elder. And the cutest, too - six out of four economists agree. And smartest. Plus able to break trail for an entire day, in knee deep snow. Taught the cub everything I know about climbing - it took around ten minutes.
Which is - sort of - how I can to be sitting alone in the dark on a ledge on the Ironman in the Adamants, wondering not so much about how I was going to rappel, as how I was going to keep the ropes separated so that they'd pull. We had a glacier to cross. Leif, Henry and Ric were far below, and had not succeeded in doing so, but I had a plan. Unfortunately, Herr Foodeater has proclaimed that I can't tell you about it.
(Later I became familiar with another kind of Ironman - foreshadowing.)
Yes, I knew about the "Sickle trundle" - nails mentions it in his guide. How big was the piece that came off? How much damage did it cause to the shrubberies and rock below, and where did the pieces land?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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TDA TDA Thread Drift Alert
gregf be warned.......
Hamish Fraser's recent tale of his approach to the Rostrum reminded me of a minor variation to the same theme, but one played in a lower key. Nothing exciting about this, just another day at the office.
Once upon a time, a long long time ago, in a valley far far away, someone had a brilliant idea. It was Bridwell's idea. When things go wrong always blame your partner, especially if he is not around to defend himself. It was the middle of December, and it was cold. Jim's brilliant idea was to climb the north face of the Rostrum, thereby making the first winter ascent of a Grade V in Yosemite. Success would bring us instant and lasting fame, at least in Camp 4. Jim would move from the C Group to the B Group, while I would move up several places in the G Group. Robbins might recognize our names [but not us in-person], and Pratt would stop at our site to sample our wine. In the unlikely event that 100 co-eds occupied Camp 4 for a month, we might even get laid. It was a very good idea.
Warren Harding and Glen Denny had made the first ascent of this route two years earlier, and it had only seen two or three repeats since then. Fortunately for us, Glen was working in the lodge every evening, and we were able to question him closely. [scoopin' the beta, dudes] In retrospect he always had that little "what are these clowns thinking?" grin.....
Glen had a car, and kindly [eagerly?] volunteered to drive us to the approach. In those days you approached the climb from below, using the main Yosemite access road, and not from above [by rappel!!] as is done today. Carrying our bivvy gear we headed for the Merced River. The river at this point was not deep, but it was wide. and it was cold, very cold. Our rock-shoes were basically scaled-down versions of mountain boots, with thin Vibram soles, which we used for approaches as well as for climbing. We took off our shoes, socks and pants and started across.
The pain was immediate and strong. There were some ice-covered rocks half-way across. We thankfully sat on these and tried to warm our bare feet. Then into the river again. As we approached the far side we could barely walk, and our ankles began to creak loudly. "Eerk, eerk" they went with every step. [Some readers will no doubt be calling "bull" at this point, but I did read of a similar event in the AAJ a few years ago.] We were both smokers at the time, so a large fire was quickly lit, a number of smokes were smoked in quick succession, and time slipped by as our feet slowly thawed.
Next it was uphill through the poison oak to the base of the climb, where more smokes were smoked, and more time went by. The first pitch was a mixed aid and rising hand traverse flake kind of a thing. Amazingly there was a rattlesnake in the crack, which despite the cold was still awake. Every time we hit a pin, it rattled its tail and scared the heck out of us. [More readers are now calling "bull"] Several more pitches were climbed, but it was getting colder and scarier, and with night approaching it was only going to get even more cold and even more scarey.
We baled, crossed the river with our shoes on this time, and hitched to Camp 4. Glen smiled when he saw us back in the lodge a day early, but did not rib us too hard. That trip was actually an outstanding success when compared with Bridwell's next brilliant idea, and the ensuing fiasco which resulted, when we attempted a winter ascent of the north face of Clouds Rest............Jim always dreamed big. As time has shown, he later added whole new dimensions to the word 'visionary'.
Hamish M.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Now Hamie, you wouldn't be rattling our chains, now would you?
I did wonder about what Jim wrote in your red guidebook, at Bridwellfest, but adventure seems to follow you both. He clearly remembered your fun together fondly.
Another way to cross the Merced, not far upstream from the Rostrum.
Hamie, in secret training. Note "Kokanee" tee shirt.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Now that is a great story!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Hamie the First, outstanding tale! Er, I mean story.
How many Hamishes are up in those cold wet woods? Did you leave any back home for the sheep to seduce?
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Awesome story; Mutch appreciated!
Fast forward a couple decades to the late 70s early 80s, the Might Hiker and Randy A. established a mellow corner crack in the little smoke bluffs and named it "neat and clean" circa 1978.
But then... I dont see Randys name pop up in the guide books until all the FAs in the northwalls area with dean hart and company between '85 and '87.
So the question I ask is, What was randy doing between said events; as far as I can tell he wasnt doing new routes in squamish. Was he routing elsewhere?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Is any one else here heading to the south land of America? We are heading to Bishop next week for a couple weeks of pebbling. I heard at the gym half of Squamish will be there.
Anyone have a friend there with a home for rent? :) Actually, not even a home, a partial home. Floors are ok!
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MH2
climber
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Randy A at the VIMFF finale, seeing the humour.
Photo by Mighty Hiker.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Randy and I did several new routes in 1978 or so, and IIRC he was involved in some new things with others then and over the next few years. The 1978 climbs included Partners in Crime, which Randy pretty much led (I did the first few metres), and Seaside Rendezvous. If you look carefully at a comprehensive guide from the mid 1980s on, say the Campbell guide, you should find other things that Randy was involved in during 1979 - 85.
Not much later he was involved in AB Microtek, an early computer service firm, again IIRC.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Thanks Bruce, I PM'ed you.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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An illustration of 1972 prusiking technique, as was useful on Big Daddy, and later in the Adamants.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Interesting technique, is the Eric W.?
Was that a self taught maneuver?
Bump for the mighty hikers history presentation tonight @ the Squamish adventure center
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Well, it actually worked reasonably well. Jumars existed then, but we couldn't afford them and were hardly about to lug them around the mountains. Plus they slip on icy ropes. And sit harnesses were just about invented, but not available here. So the technique was to have a chest harness of sorts, with the prusiks attached to the rope, through the chest harness, and into your pockets. The chest harness ensured you wouldn't fall out of the prusiks. If you fell in a hole - assuming that you were conscious and not too badly injured - you'd take the prusiks out of your pockets, and slip them on. Once you were standing, the compression would be off your diaphragm. If you had the prusiks adjusted to the right length, you could climb quite quickly - many of the early big walls were done with prusiks, not jumars, and they got quite slick at it.
Yes, it would be interesting to start over as a climber now, same age (14), modern advantages. But I have this theory that allowing for the variable of changing equipment, technique, skills and so on, that climbers of one era aren't necessarily any better than those from an earlier time. In context of what they had and what they were doing, their achievements are every bit as amazing.
(The climber isn't Eric W, but a fellow named Don.)
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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A classic example of making of making due with what you got. When my rack consited if ten wall nuts and 3 tricams I always used to say its not how much geAr rather how much fun you can have with what you got.
Thank you for the great presentation last night Anders, besT of luck with your research.
Don Serl by any chance.. Every body was rocking the bowl cut back in the 70s.
Bump for Mr Mutchs and Bridwells Yosemite adventure!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I don't remember when the CMI ascenders became available - sometime in the late 1970s, or later? You could buy jumars at REI in the early 1970s. The next were the Petzl ascenders, but again not until much later.
Thanks to Big Mike and the kid cormier for coming to the talk last night. A presentation for the Squamish Historical Society on the climbing history project. And Big Mike saved the day with his techno-expertise.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2012 - 09:30pm PT
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Yesterday was an excellent day for climbing in Squamish, and after a lazy morning me and Sandra headed down to meet the gang in the bulletheads. When we arrived luke was just finishing his lead of Rainy Day Dream Away, 10c.
When Luke untied he came over and told me I should should come solo Sunshine Chimney South 5.6 with him.. I asked if it was dry and he said him and kyle allready did it, and it was good.
Kyle solos Sunshine Chimney South
So off we went and after he showed me Sunshine Chimney North which he soloed earlier, with the nasty squeeze, we walked down to Sunshine Chimney South.
Sunshine Chimney South is really just a variation start to Sunshine Chimney Center, but it features a few different caves with easy jamming and squeeze style is also possible.
After getting into it, you get this lovely little jamcrack squeeze.
Me, Luke Cormier Photo
If you are 6'7 it is possible to stem before you clear the chockstones. :)
Me, Kid Photo
Then you join up with Sunshine Chimney Center and continue to scramble up to the Cream of White Mice/Slot Machine trail.
Me, Kid Photo
Definetly a fun little solo with the scariest part for me being the bush and dirt slope mantle I chose to do at the top to reach the trail.
After I returned Kyle left the rope up on Rainy Day Dream Away and I got it clean. Super fun route..
I was unware that Anders was giving a speech and when Luke informed me and told me Big Jim was going to be there I pretty much had to go.
Anders Getting into it
His presentation was quite interesting, had excellent photos and a couple historical videos featuring an aid ascent on Artificial Land aka Sentry Box at murrin. As well a CBC film called "Verticle Desert" featuring Jim Sinclair and partner on the Grand Wall which I would love to see more of. He packed the house and it was standing room only.
After the show my friend Big Jim Sinclair was talking to Glenn Woodsworth, so I went over and introduced myself to Glenn and they allowed me to take this shot.
I got a chance to talk to Jim before the show and was happy to find him in good health.
I was wandering around the Squamish Adventure Center after and came across this.
I would love to hear that story.
Edit: sorry about the cell phone photos!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2012 - 09:41pm PT
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Anders- I hardly saved the day.. I'm sure if I wasn't there someone would have figured it out.. Please do tell your Adamants story, it seems a little slow around here anyways and I do seem to recall making an exception for photos of Squamish climbers elsewhere so I could post some Skaha pics. This should logically be extended to tales, as climbing is really truly about the people while the places are the stages in the tale.
Please preface it with this TDA TDA Thread Drift Alert
gregf be warned....... So that the dawn patrol can be forewarned :)
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Is Anders doing a humming bird impression? that must have been after he passed around the bong! :P
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 10, 2012 - 12:00am PT
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funny thing about that photo; that was (probably) five years after freeing it. In '82 it was e.b.s for rock shoes. Peter's got sticky rubber fires on. Big difference.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 10, 2012 - 01:59am PT
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Well, thanks. It was a bit embarrassing, though. I met the historical society in November, to talk about the project, and they asked if I could come to a meeting and make a short presentation about it. Hence last night. And then they told the Squamish paper, and the radio station. (Very slow news week, apparently.) So I was interviewed on "Mountain Life" on Mountain FM first thing in the morning, too. Hopefully it'll lead to some helpful information, but I felt a little like saying "No, no. You have the wrong guy." It's still picking up momentum, life can serve up all sorts of challenges, and nothing will actually appear for some time.
Note that a "full house" at the Adventure Centre can't be more than 60 people. But thanks anyway, Mike - good try!
I have knock knees - a family trait. The better with which to kick people like pill Foodeater. You should tell us some of your stories, Greg! And I understand that all good speakers wave their arms - right, CMac? But maybe I'll finish the Adamants story, which with contributions from the peanut gallery should bring the thread over 1,000 posts. Rarefied atmosphere.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2012 - 03:05am PT
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Ya GF! You gotta have a few good yarns! Lets hear them!
I am also hoping for reports from bishop.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 10, 2012 - 10:24am PT
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G.F. could write a quick funny blurb about how he had to stand on a foothold for quite sometime whilst new routing across the hwy. from Murrin parking lot. The Bear, myself, and fearless leader, Greg. He blasts up there, gains the little bolt-drilling stance, and, well, what-do-you-know, we (Peder and I) forgot the drill at Peder's house. The Bear hauled off in his four-runner and avoided any speeding tickets; pedal to the metal. Greg hung out on that little stance forever, it seemed. It was at least half an hour. Peder showed up, Greg hauled the drill, bolt went in, he finished the pitch.
During our wait, with me manning the belay and Greg suffering from calf-pain, a police car went ripping by at mach-shnell, chasing a speeder. Perfect, he'd be busy giving that guy a ticket when the Bear came speeding by in the other direction, drill in paw. I may have made a sarcastic remark about the fastest way to Tim Hortons. That reminded Greg of some new band he'd recently read about...Bad Cop No Doughnut. Couldn't refuse that for a route name.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 10, 2012 - 01:59pm PT
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One of which was passed around on Thursday, for show and tell. (Sorry to disappoint you, Bruce.) Longware bongs, from the early 1960s - given to me by the family of Leif Patterson. Probably the largest pitons ever commercially manufactured.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2012 - 02:26pm PT
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Nice BONGS Anders :) What kinda bongs did you think they were talking about? Surely you are not insinuating that we would think of any counter culture sort. :)
I do agree with GF on his point about eeellllloooonnnngggaaaattiing your stories unnecessarily :)
1000 will be a nice landmark to hit. How many climbing threads make it to that point? Wings far surpassed that I guess and Cerro Torre achieved the mark quite quickly.
I for one plan to keep climbing and photographing as much as I can, and relaying my silly little tales in the hope that they amuse and maybe even inspire someone to go try something new. Hopefully others continue to contribute as well, as it seems to have become a place to bridge the generation gap, which I find quite unique.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 10, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
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Yeah, great thread Big Mike. I think the whole tone and the great content stand in shining contrast to what a bunch of silly yanks usually pull off, and I'm one of them. Kudos, and a bump for more frosty tales from the north.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2012 - 08:12pm PT
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Hamish f- Not surprising. I guess you guys didn't quite have the climbing paparazzi they have today.. I've heard the fires were game changers.. How much did they affect the progression when they came out?
I remember a song called Bad Cop No Doughnut :)
Wayno- Thanks. It certainly wouldn't be the same without the other fine contributers.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 10, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
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oh, maybe bad cop was a song, not a band; I'm not sure. Sticky rubber? Huge leap forward for climber-kind. Now try picturing those guys up on the apron in their Robbins boots... with the hand drill. Tap tap tap.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2012 - 12:48am PT
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The song I remember was by a punk band called Don't Know in the mid 90's. Here is a link to a funny animation that someone used it in. Bad Cop No Donut
Thought I would edit a few more pics of Kyle's from our Spanky's wall visits.
Me finishing up Early Morning Job 5.9
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2012 - 12:51am PT
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Post 1000..
Me Rapping off Spankys Wall
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 11, 2012 - 12:59am PT
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1,001
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2012 - 01:15am PT
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Nice try Ghost. :) Nice pics too.. Is first one the photo you were taking when Anders shot the infamous pic of the photographer at work? What's the last one?
Anyone here ever done Teddy Bears Picnic? Looks pretty epic.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 11, 2012 - 01:27am PT
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Nice try Ghost. :)
You probably beat me to it by about 1 second. I had to go back and edit out 1,000 and substitute 1,001.
Is first one the photo you were taking when Anders shot the infamous pic of the photographer at work? What's the last one?
No, they're all just random shots from days at Squamish. As to the last one, come on... Everybody posting on this thread has climbed that rig at least a dozen times. You are going to lose serious Squamish Points if you don't identify it within ten minutes.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2012 - 01:44am PT
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Thanks to KM's Solairum photos I figured it's Sunblessed but I have never had the pleasure. Something I most definetly need to address next summer. Too many pitches, not enough time..
ya I saw that edit :)
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MH2
climber
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Mar 11, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
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^^^^
That could be interesting but Gord Smaill didn't strike me as backwards-looking the few times I've climbed with him.
Plus, as Galen Rowell said in an SI article, "A climber's memory is a golden sieve through which harsh realities slip away."
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 11, 2012 - 12:32pm PT
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The relative dearth of bolts on the routes on the Apron put up in Robbins shoes speaks for itself. For the most part, people placed bolts at the few places where they could stop and do so. There aren't many such routes - Grim Reaper (1969), White Lightning (1973), the first two pitches of the original Bloodlust (1971), maybe bits of other things. White Lightning, at least, may have been done using EBs, and involved use of bat hooks.
EBs were available at the Swallow's Nest in Seattle by mid-1973, and in California somewhat earlier. IIRC, you couldn't buy them in Vancouver until mid-1974. Paul Piro, Gordie Smaill and Steve Sutton did White Lightning in 1973. All spent a lot of time in the Valley then, and probably had EBs.
I placed one or two bolts on lead in RRs, with a hand drill. Rather an effort.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 11, 2012 - 02:14pm PT
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I think Anders is talking about one of those routes above Broadway.
I tried to lead one of those in the 70's when I was over my head, and about half the height of Peter (Croft). I climbed up about forty or fifty feet, trying to get to the first bolt, screwed up, started sliding down the slab. The rope was building up quickly at Peter's feet, so he dropped the hip belay, reached out and grabbed me as I was about to impact the ledge. Just grabbed me like a runaway sack of potatoes. More exciting than grade 8 gym class, that's for sure. That may have been pre-grade 8 actually. And, speaking of shoes, those would've been used Val D'ors. Kinda orangey-leather jobs, I think. Cutting edge,'78.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Mar 11, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
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Just bought a nice fresh pair of La Sportiva TC Pro's for the Squam cracks. Looking forward to trying them out when I get back from Bishop and Smith Rock. See ya later suckas!
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 11, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
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is it good style to rest on a bat hook to drill a bolt, or is that just consider mediocre style?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 11, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
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is it good style to rest on a bat hook to drill a bolt, or is that just consider mediocre style?
Mediocre. Good style is when your lycra tights match the color of your rope, and you rest on your Grigri to drill. Or your jumars, if the rope is fixed all the way to the bottom.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 11, 2012 - 03:54pm PT
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BK; OMGosh , I just googled bong... My goodness. I was clearly referring (Reefering?) to the large pitons, not those bubbly glass devices commonly used by those long haired, oatmeal eatting hippies
MrHarris; my question was directed towards FA style, not fashion styles. Geezes.
Ander; hope you werent offended by my hummingbird joke, sorry, I have nothing but the upmost respect for everything you've contributed to the climbing community :)
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Mar 11, 2012 - 04:14pm PT
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If you started to drill the bat hook, why not just keep drilling?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 11, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
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How did a hummingbird come into the story? I usually don't follow the "birds" thread - those twitchers are way too aggro for me.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
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I think it was because of your wing flapping MH :)
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 11, 2012 - 08:22pm PT
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Thanks for backing me up tami! ;) Have you ever bolted on the sharp end? If so tell us a boot it eh!
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Mar 11, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
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Really Tami? So you're saying it is common practice to drill a bat hole and then drill another hole for a bolt? Never heard of that...
Clearly we are not talking about stance bolting then, perhaps shitty stance bolting?
Stance bolters like Bacher and The Kid (Kurt Smith, not you Luke) wouldn't of stooped that low I'm sure, and absolutely none of the bolters back in Oz where I'm from would dream of that. If you drill it, fill it.
Bat holes suck, I promise I will cut my arms off if I ever think of drilling one.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 11, 2012 - 09:31pm PT
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I think we,re talking about slab stance bolting with a hand drill
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Mar 11, 2012 - 09:51pm PT
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Exactly what I'm talking about too, I extra surprised that bat holes even get mentioned when it comes to slab bolting?....
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 11, 2012 - 10:08pm PT
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You come to our country, drink our craft beer, and presumably our maple syrup, and now you criticize our historical climbing ethics.. Shame on you mister fishbowl, shame!
Have you given any thought to the naturally lichen and moss covered rock that characteristically defines Squamish... That same lichen that provides sub-adequate friction and will quickly fill in bat holes on lower angle routes..
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Mar 11, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
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It seems illogical to drill two holes when one will do. Your bit wont last long.
The two types of bolting of lead I was aware of are stance bolting which is/was very common, and bolting from a hook over an edge. Drilling
convenience holes I thought was the domain of equipping steep sport routes, but perhaps you Canuks do things a little differently.
No need to pick on the Aussie, we are all citizens of the world, and some of us have climbed in many other places than just Squamish....insular views breed odd habits...
;)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 11, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
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Robbins shoes on White Lightning, especially the second pitch, might actually help. Quite a lot of the part above the roof is micro-edging, and pure friction is less usual on Squamish's Apron than the other one. But the shoes had to fit rather snug for best results. As one of the hardcore once wrote "Damn Robbins and his tight blue shoes!"
Bat hooks were used to help place bolts on at least two routes on the Apron, White Lightning and Dream On. Bolts placed on lead, sustained climbing, so something was needed for stability. It doesn't blunt the drill very much.
Slab climbs, and the location of protection on them, can be hard to understand with sticky rubber. Placing the bolts on lead, with EBs or even RRs, before the rock was all clean, was sometimes rather a challenge.
ps Am I flapping?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2012 - 12:11am PT
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Not your gums, your arms in the picture I posted oh so many moons ago :)
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Mar 12, 2012 - 02:02am PT
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No sh#t it's not common....don't get your panties in a bunch dear...
You said "Doh", as if it was an obvious thing to do, as if one should have known that was what happened. Not answering questions straight can lead to all sorts of misconceptions.
My most sincere apologies.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 12, 2012 - 03:43am PT
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From what i understand, when ppl used to drill a "hole" for a hook it wasn't exactly a "hole", it was a small indent, maybe 5-10 whacks, just so you could get the hook on & take a bit of weight off to drill the actual "hole", these pilot holes are not exactly something you could fill with anything.....or even see anymore for that matter. Not saying it is a right or wrong ethic but White lightning is a highly memorable, classic climb so no big deal IMO- especially considering the millions of rap bolts next to cracks placed in squamish since those days. Not complaining, i'll clip those too!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 12, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
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I heard of subvariations. One was simply to start drilling. Once the drill got in a short distance, it provided something of a hold - or at least you could fool yourself into believing that if your feet slipped, the drill would provide a desperation hold. (Drills are quite brittle, sadly.) Another was the bathook routine - fire in a quick, shallow hole with a sharp lower lip, hook onto it. Perhaps you could put a tieoff around the drill, and clip it as a backup, but drills can get fairly warm, and it could melt.
I never tried any of them. For my few slab routes, I just ran it out until there was somewhere to stand.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 12, 2012 - 01:08pm PT
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Did you rest on the drill during aQofB anders? or did you tough out the leg pump and send it?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 12, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
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All placed on sight, on lead - no hooks, bat hooks or other aids. I even started to place a bolt half way up the runout on the first pitch, where there's a bit of a break. But I got started, and realized it wasn't going to happen, so just kept going. With modern rubber, you could probably stop anywhere and place a bolt on a climb like that. It's not very hard, just sustained and runout.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 12, 2012 - 01:22pm PT
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At the time I sent it, it was the hardest slab route I had ever been on and boy was it exciting..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2012 - 02:45pm PT
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Still is. I wanna hit Eric's and Bran flakes now.... They seem a tad runout tho :)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 12, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
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Well, Mike and Luc will be cheered to know that the upper Apron is ready for them. After I finished the Slab Alley and Pineapple Peel restoration project last summer (a story in itself, reported on squamishclimbing.com), I spent several days on the upper Apron. Bits of cleaning, bringing down all the perched rocks from Granville Street (now a pile on Broadway), checking all the bolts and replacing those that were of concern, patching, and re-installing the rappel route on Granville Street which someone chopped some years ago. So all the bolts and hangers are ship-shape, and you can rappel with one 60 m rope.
There are two bolts in Eric's Route, which is one long pitch. One bolt in the first pitch of Bran Flakes. IIRC, Tami, Peter, Richard and I did Black Bug's Blood that day, and had a rest at Broadway. They had earlier done some of Bran Flakes - PC Junior's favourite breakfast. That is, up to the first bolt, which they'd placed, but which wasn't very good. Plus some brushing? So I got to go up, place a good bolt, and remove the other. I came down, and someone then finished that pitch - Peter or Richard. Then someone did the second pitch, which again IIRC has one bolt, but I can't remember who did it. I may have a slide or two around that would help. I vaguely recall that they'd brushed the route beforehand.
Things seem to happen backwards up there. I brushed AQOB after climbing it, then there was the replacement bolt thing on BF.
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Mar 12, 2012 - 05:04pm PT
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Don't want to see that carbon steel snap under too much load eh?
Begin drilling thru the bolt-eye hole of the hanger with the drill, have a couple slings pre-clipped to the hanger for standing on as the bit sinks deeper. Yah thats the ticket, Warren Harding taught me everything I know. ;-)
OT - Need partners 4 easy trad multi pitch in Red Rocks this week. PM me with your telephone number - tks !
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 12, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
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OK, so here's a photo from our climb of Bran Flakes. Having done the runout and re-placed the bolt, I was once again pretending to be a photographer.
The route had indeed been pre-brushed - may have given me the idea to do AQB.
And from AQB.
No brushing here, no sirree. And there sure was lots of lichen and salal there in those days. (The routes can't be more than 8 - 10 m apart, if that.)
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 12, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
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That a pretty neat trick bruce, have you done much leadbolting?
What do you guys think about rap bolting... lets hear it.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 12, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
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that's cheating...
google the Bachar-Yerian and see the state of the art and the standard we were trying to measure up to... they put that route up 31 yrs. ago.
Sorry to be so pig-headed about it but I always had the utmost respect for the climbers that came before us. A quick look into the origins of cutting edge routes in Tuolomne, Yosemite, Needles, and Joshua tree will show an amazing pool of talent. I saw no reason why we shouldn't try to keep up.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 12, 2012 - 11:16pm PT
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The murky origins of rapbolting and sport climbing at Squamish, and the history of Petrifying Wall, are a long and complex story. I don't know who was the first to place bolts on a new route, on rappel, in Squamish. Sometime in the mid to late 1980s.
It was perhaps in some ways a logical development, in that few new routes were established after the late 1970s that weren't first cleaned and so inspected on rappel. Once you've dug out the crack, scrubbed off some moss and lichen, dislodged the loose rocks, and maybe even placed intermediate belay bolts, it's not quite a bolt from the blue.
It was a subject of intense debate, though, as people grappled with how to get up things at Pet Wall.
Apart from route restoration projects, which don't count, I've only rapbolted once. I cleaned a new variation on the Apron, which became A Troll's Sonnet, by myself one day in 2000. Some friends were coming up after work so we could climb it, and I got impatient and put in the bolts. All of them at stances where it wouldn't be hard to stand and drill, so it didn't make any real difference. Guilty as charged.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 13, 2012 - 12:02am PT
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The murky origins of rapbolting and sport climbing at Squamish, and the history of Petrifying Wall, are a long and complex story. I don't know who was the first to place bolts on a new route, on rappel, in Squamish. Sometime in the mid to late 1980s.
I'd better jump in here. Sometime in 1963-1965, my brother, Bob (one of the best and boldest at the time) climbed Slab Alley on the Apron. Above the 3-bolt ladder, which he did free at 5.9, the normal route goes right to a good belay. Above the belay, you traverse left and slightly up to get into an interesting, deep groove (the so-called Elephant Steps, or Heffalumps).
Bob climbed this normal route, had someone belay him from the top of of the Elephant Steps. Bob rapped down to the very steep, smooth bulge below the Elepant Steps and above the 3-bolt ladder and placed a bolt in the middle of the bulge. He and his climbing partner -- neither Bob nor I can remember who it was --- then descended to the base of the 3-bolt ladder.
Bob then freed (again) the bolt ladder, then continued (free) up the steep bulge, clipping into his new bolt for pro. He then continued up the Elephant Steps to the belay.
Bob's bulge is rated in McLane at 5.10d. Was this the first 5.10 (or 5.10d) at Squamish? Probably. And it was almost certainly the first rap-bolted pitch at Squamish.
Shoes? Bob was wearing an ancient pair of kletterschues. These were state of the art and consisted of a unlined, leather upper with a Vibram sole. We tried to get them to fit fairly snugly, with a sock, but nothing as tight as today's agony shoes. We always walked down in them, without much pain. Some people used them as light hiking or mountaineering shoes.
And here's the killer bit of trivia: Bob says that the toes were completely gone in them and his toes were sticking out, waving in the air. I would love to know what he could have done if sticky rubber had been available then...
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 13, 2012 - 12:25am PT
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Oh I'm aware it happened. Just offering my (stubborn) two cents worth.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 13, 2012 - 12:44am PT
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Well, I don't remember any bolts at all on Ali Bhutto - and I was looking at it just a few weeks ago. Plus once climbed it. Maybe some other route?
As you say, Glenn's story trumps it anyway. Rap bolting at Squamish, in 1964? Egads! Good thing the Valley Christians never heard about it. Tell Bob that as part of the Slab Alley project, I diligently cleaned his variation, and replaced the bolt. And yes, it was probably one of the first hard 5.10 pitches - well, a few moves, anyway - in Canada.
Still, an isolated event doesn't necessarily show any established practice or trend.
When I got started, it was clear that placing bolts on rappel was unacceptable. Simply NOT DONE. Everything had to be on sight - some guy from Yosemite had been handed tablets from on high to that effect. Except that just about then, people started to clean while aid climbing, and on rappel, and things got blurrier. Eric got into pre-pinning, or whatever you call it, while cleaning on aid lead. But the commandments were abundantly clear - thou shalt not place any more bolts than absolutely necessary, and only on lead. But then there was Wheat Thin, in 1971...
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 13, 2012 - 01:15am PT
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Thanks for the awesome replies cool to hear your opinions on the matter. In the crack climbing side of the spectrum has there ever been controversy about strategically over driving pins where bomber hand placed pro didnt appear to be readily available.. In the ethics department, not including the pissed off persons who purchased the over driven pitons.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 13, 2012 - 02:18am PT
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Another good lead for the time, by Bob, was the now 10a crux on the 2nd version of Sickle. When I did it in 65 or 66, with the late Roger Marshall, and also wearing vibram soles, I certainly hesitated for a while. They weren't designed for slabs. Roger, being a Brit [ha ha] required a little judicious tension thru the crux.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 13, 2012 - 11:14am PT
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Says here Ali butto was first climber in 1979, quite a bit earlier the the mid to late eighties indeed. Tami, did Peter call you out on your sub standard style..
Hamish; you mention above trying to measure up to Yosemite and Tuolome standards, did this influence your Uwall solo? Was rope soloing a big thing in Yosemite back in the day?
Also have you done the bachar-yarian line? And how does it measure up to genius loci?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 13, 2012 - 11:39am PT
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No, I don't think the California climbing influenced me doing a couple walls solo-style. Aid climbing was very popular in those days and free climbing was a little younger. I was a little younger, too, and found aid climbing much easier than free climbing.
Unfortunately I never tried the Bachar-Yerian. Tuolomne is at 9500 feet so its pretty much a summer area. It was tough, as a canuck, to justify a cal. trip during the summer. Excuses, excuses, that route looked so tough, mentally. I would bet it's steeper and way more run out than genus-loci. Perhaps not technically as difficult, but much more demanding on your mind.
Anyone could show up and start flinging themselves at genus-loci, with the Bachar-Yerian you'd want all your rods and cones alligned perfectly.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 13, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
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Still, an isolated event doesn't necessarily show any established practice
True, that was an isolated incident.
When I got started, it was clear that placing bolts on rappel was unacceptable. Simply NOT DONE. Everything had to be on sight - some guy from Yosemite had been handed tablets from on high to that effect.
The tablets hadn't made it up to Squamish in the mid-1960s and, even if they had, the Vancouver group might have ignored them. We were probably more influenced by the ethics of the Seattle climbers and what was happening in the Leavenworth area than by the California scene. It wasn't until people like Hamie, Tim Auger, Bob Woodsworth started making trips to Yosemite that most of us had any inklink of what was really going on down there. There simply wasn't that much interchange between Squamish and Yosemite in those days.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 13, 2012 - 04:28pm PT
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What does the Squamish inquisition(the group formally know as the smoke bluffs moral and ethics committee) think of the current generation "designing" multi pitch routes for beginner trad climbers?
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 13, 2012 - 04:47pm PT
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Specifically like the skywalker variation of dick culberts forked flume.. Where bolted anchors were placed on top rope beside amazing stances that take bomber gear..
Permission was given by the FAist, and its a great route.. mind you when I climbed it Aislinn and I simul climbed it and skipped all the bolts.
I think it's a slippery slope and I am wondering what the thoughts of squamishs pioneers are on the matter.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 13, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
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Haven't done Skywalker yet (rained last year before I could get up there). Somebody's got to take me up it this summer! But it sounds really good.
I was generally supportive of the cleaning/re-bolting of Slab Alley by Anders, but I think he went a bit overboard with the bolts on the upper, easy parts, particularly the direct finish from the last tree.
Europa? Given that it's in a little shear zone, you'll never get rid of all the loose crap. Plants love that place, so I think it will re-green itself in a few years, unless someone wants to dedicate her/his life to keeping it clean. Why bother? Let it go back to the wild.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 13, 2012 - 05:52pm PT
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I've done some of the comfortized routes, such as Diedre, Calculus Crack, the Ultimate Everything, the indirect finish to Squamish Buttress, and Forked Flume/Skywalk, and am a little uncomfortable with their ethos. Convenience climbing seems an oxymoron to me. Although, as Glenn says, I'm not entirely innocent in that department.
There is a place at Squamish for bolt belays where decent natural anchors aren't available, or where a route is frequently used for rappelling. Placing them for the convenience of climbers who'd otherwise be unable to do a route, or of commercial climbers, may be another matter.
The unnecessary bolt belays on Diedre have led to some major fusterclucks - they in effect lure the unprepared onto the route. (And its simple nature, of course.)
At the same time, some of the routes that have been excavated over the last few years may soon regreen, unless there's a fair amount of traffic. That may happen to Crap Crags/Europa and maybe Skywalk in any case. So if bolt stations on such climbs, however unnecessary, encourage traffic, maybe that's a plus.
As for Slab Alley, I'm still unsure. Originally it had nine bolts. By the mid-1970s it had eleven - two were added to protect the traverse on the second pitch, so that pins weren't needed - although many still used a pin above the first stepup move on that pitch. Once I was done, and after considerable discussion, I'd added six belay bolts and four climbing bolts to the original line, plus rerouted the third pitch. (One of the new climbing bolts is where people used to use a pin. The three at the 'new' bolt ladder could probably be two, except that Big Jim insisted there be three.) Two of the three new belays don't have much in the way of natural anchors, although one does - a crack but not much of a stance. My helper that day was definite that it needed bolts. But then I got crap from some for not adding a bolt station at the end of the fourth pitch, where there are good natural anchors. And I agree that maybe I should have left the direct last pitch - originally climbed unprotected in the 1960s - alone, although I added three bolts there. The idea was to keep people out of the traffic jam at the end of Banana Peel.
Whatever else, I patched all the holes and messes left from 50 years of bolt placement and replacement, and overdrilled all the holes, so that it's not hard to sink and then patch over those that prove unneeded. If someone wants to argue that a few bolts could be removed (the station at the end of the second pitch, one of the three on the bolt 'ladder', and one or two on the direct finish), I might agree.
I went on to clean up Pineapple Peel, but only replaced bolts. The only added one is on a new half-pitch linking PP back into Slab Alley, to keep people away from the traffic jam on Banana Peel. Same for the upper Apron - cleaned, checked, replaced, but made no change.
The following may illustrate the discussion, although I make no claims to artistic ability. Maybe Tami could help improve it?
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c-plus
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC, Canada
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Mar 13, 2012 - 05:53pm PT
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Bran Flakes! tee hee, I remember climbing that one several years ago and nearly losing my lunch! i think i was getting close to that first (and only) bolt, and finally starting to feel the runnout, when I noticed that since the route doesn't receive that much travel, it'd gotten a little dirty and developed some slick mossy bits. suddenly my fancy rubber shoes didn't feel so sticky! at that point i think my belayer un-anchored himself from the trees below and prepared to start running downhill should i start to peel off. thankfully I made it up unscathed, but boy was the heartrate up.
regarding anchors near cracks, this debate comes up every couple years. but think about it: diedre has anchors right next to a beautiful crack for most of the pitches. why are they there? i mean, you could build a gear anchor anywhere you wanted? what about the trees that used to be in those cracks? they probably provided fine natural pro? safety, convenience, possibility of retreat, etc... all these things conspire to place bolts on the rock. in the end it's a judgement call and the debate continues...
edit: bah, anders beat me to the diedre comparison!!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 13, 2012 - 06:17pm PT
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Really? Bolts beside cracks to fascilitate guiding? Are you kidding me?
Where did it all go wrong?
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 13, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
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It seems the the apex of the slippery slope I referred to was quite a while back and this convenience anchor/bolting style is gaining momentum...
Where does it stop? what will climbing at squamish be like in 20 years if route development is geared towards 'beginner' trad climbers?
Sound we put an end to it by chopping ALL convenience bolts?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 13, 2012 - 06:50pm PT
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Sound we put an end to it by chopping ALL convenience bolts?
You might want to put some thought into exactly what is "a convenience bolt" and what isn't. You gonna go up and chop all the bolts on Perry's Lieback?
I guess what I'm trying to ask is: Who gets to decide?
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 13, 2012 - 06:55pm PT
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The main purpose of posting "should we chop all convenience bolts" is to provoke some conversation as to which direction climbing at squamish is heading..
EDIT; Has perrys ever been climbed on gear? do camalot #5s even fit?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2012 - 07:14pm PT
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Thats it. Im gonna go chop one bolt from each belay on diedre, since the fa's only put one in the first place.
How long before someone goes and puts new ones in!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 13, 2012 - 07:17pm PT
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That'd be deja vu, all over again.
No bolts were placed on the first ascent of Diedre, by Jim Baldwin and Jim Sinclair in 1962. (There were more shrubs in the route then, some of which were good belays.) One bolt/belay was added in about 1973, to discourage piton use - the idea was that with nuts plus one bolt, you could easily make a good belay. Those bolts were removed fairly soon after, because they were 'unnecessary'.
The modern stations appeared somewhat later - I'm not clear as to when/who.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 13, 2012 - 07:40pm PT
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The modern stations appeared somewhat later - I'm not clear as to when/who.
I heard a story once, not sure if it's 100% true or not, but if it isn't, it sure ought to be. Goes like this...
Squamish local Paul Kindree is soloing Diedre one afternoon, and finds a pair of climbers at the first belay, anchored to the bush that grew there. He points to the recently installed two-bolt station and suggests that the pair might not have seen it. To which they respond haughtily with words to the effect of "There's a perfectly good natural belay here, and whoever put the bolts in should be ashamed." At which point Paul easily pulls the bush out and throws it down the slab.
Leaving the noobs with a new understanding of what might justify "unnecessary" bolts.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 13, 2012 - 07:44pm PT
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Well I heard a story once too..
it involved mr kindree unroped and sliding down the shallow corner of diedre, probably thinking "I've made a terrible mistake".
Saved only by a pair of adidas tobaco's and I sh#t you not a BUSH!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 13, 2012 - 07:47pm PT
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Yeah, but that was a good bush.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 13, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
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As Anders has alluded, Europa is not a new route, merely a new name. It is the clear-cut/clean-cut version of Crap Crags. Hopefully, after all of the work put in by Jeff and his many friends, the climb will be done often enough to stay clean.
Has anyone here done Europa/CC since it was cleaned/logged? Opinions and comments based on recent hands-on experience only, please.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 13, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
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IIRC, Paul had his little slide down Sickle.
Hopefully scrubber will chime in with a different side of this. He's put a lot of work into his creations, some of which are quite popular.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Mar 13, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
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I'm down with the one bolt belays on Diedre. It gets stacked at the strangest times (like when it's soaking wet) but then other days, it's blank. I went up at half past noon on a Saturday back in August or September, and there was no one on it at all. Took advantage of that!
Maybe cleaning up the belays will keep the route a bit cleaner as a whole, but then again, maybe not.
Anders, I climbed Slab Alley back around late June I think, and I don't recall it being overly bolted. Then again, I was still fairly new to both climbing and slab routes, and I remember being quite thankful for the three bolts at the crux there. It seems fairly moderately bolted for a slab route; not so much to make it a cakewalk, but enough to allow it to still see traffic when the masses decide that BP Diedre and Calculus have been done enough.
Edit: Actually, do you really think that if there were only one bolt belays on Diedre, that people would actually plug in some gear for their anchor and not just belay off the single bolt?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 13, 2012 - 08:18pm PT
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I've not done Europa/CC, but the original Culbert-Mutch Crap Crags was actually not a bad route. Interesting, and enjoyable. I think Dick or Hamie actually led a VOC party up it once.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Mar 13, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
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^ Why wouldn't they utilise the crack for gear Solo? You saying you wouldn't?
To have a good perspective on bolting, have a look at other crags around the world and see what the practices are. Squamish sits somewhere in the middle when it comes what seems reasonable for lead bolts.
The abundance of drilled anchors is excessive IME and the spacing of anchors also seems rather close. 50m/60m spacing of rap anchors is common, however not in the few places I've climbed around Nth America.
What's up with the amazing amount of rap anchors on top of single pitch routes too around the Bluffs? Surely they are more prolific than in the past, and it certainly isn't necessary for each route to have it's own set which seems common.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 13, 2012 - 08:27pm PT
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TSC may be right - if there were only one bolt at each belay for Diedre, then some would simply clip to it, rather than add to it with gear as they ought.
As for the Little Smoke Bluffs, they're something of an urban crag, a park which we share with many others. If it seems a bit twee at times, it's because of that. The management committee - on which climbers are well represented - decided some time ago that most routes there should have bolt belay/rappel anchors at the top, with a few exceptions. Nothing new - many routes there had arguably unnecessary bolts added at their tops in the later 1980s and early 1990s.
IMHO, there does need to be a more open debate at Squamish about bolting practices and climbers' values.
ps Crap Crags was a classic Squamish adventure climb!
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 13, 2012 - 08:49pm PT
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Perhaps a Squamish Inquisition meeting is in order at the brew pub in the weeks to come to discuss bolting practices..
Its seems Illogical to me to equip routes with bolted anchors beside natural pro. Its disrespectful to the pioneers who TOOK PRIDE in the ethics and style. Its is also disrespectful to the term TRAD climbing;
Traditional by definition is Existing in or as part of a tradition; long-established..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2012 - 08:58pm PT
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If Team Jim saw fit to do Diedre without bolts for anchors, then I guess the rest of us could too. I'll ask Big Jim what he thinks.
Only anchor that might be interesting is the second one. But I guess you could get a decent one in below the bulge. Probably not the best belay, but a natural one.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Mar 13, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
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...and the definition of "trad" climbing is ground up, regardless of protection type...
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 13, 2012 - 09:08pm PT
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"Twee" I say old chap, what a dashed good word, frightfully good really!
BK You're pretty close. Roger was a reporter for the Province, not the Strait. What all did he do? If he had finished his autobiography, then we'd know. The Bonnatti route on the east face of the Capucin for one. He managed to sell the first couple of chapters to a publisher, and received a cash advance. Years later Bruce Fairley asked the publisher if he could read these chapters. The publisher replied that IF Bruce paid back the cash advance he could not only read them, but own them as well. So much for that.
The Province was a morning paper, so Roger worked in the evening. Once or twice a week he would call me, after the paper was 'put to bed', and before he was allowed to go home. I think we spent more time on the phone than on the rock. I sold him a copy of Glenn's green guidebook which had recently come out, but never received any commission. What's with that? Huh? Huh?
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 13, 2012 - 09:10pm PT
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Fishboy; Thats a given, its part of the tradition!
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Mar 13, 2012 - 09:13pm PT
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..not recent tradition unfortunately...not many cutting edge climbs are put up like that now, even though they used to...
Was just reading about Kurt Smith and his ground up bolted .12's and .13's from the 80's and early 90's, the man is a God!
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Mar 13, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
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Ahhh, you're back!
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Mar 13, 2012 - 09:56pm PT
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The free variations on Mescalito will have bolts placed on rap probably, pretty sure the original route is untouched and still has 1/4's on it.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2012 - 10:05pm PT
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Glenn- I will happily rope gun you up Skywalker if Mr Frimer doesn't have time.
if i read the comments by some of the developers lately correctly ... it seems like the bolted belays are so that people dont need to carry up a more gear, or for the climb to be less committing ...
Hmmmm.... I was all for offering some multi-pitch routes on the beginner realm of the spectrum to ease noobs into it a bit... But above is definetly not a good reason to bolt in my opinion. I've also been thinking that if people can't set up a gear belay then they really shouldn't be in multi-pitch situations in case of emergency.
I certainly do not agree with modifying a route without the FA's permission which is why I (now not so) jokingly reffered to chopping Diedre.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2012 - 10:42pm PT
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Eric- KM's description of Stefanie's Tears from 2005 says, Start as for Gonch pull, clip the first bolt on Neighborhood..., then take the righthand line to finish on View Ledge. Climb the fine corner above.
If they both say right and it's right below that sick corner than i'd say it was Stephanie's tears.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 13, 2012 - 11:32pm PT
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The original descriptions for Stefanie's Tears, by Glenn and Jeff in about 1995 - of which I happen to have copies - say:
1. "Clip the first bolt of Neighbourhood Bully then move right and up. The 2nd pitch climbs the corner."
2. "Follow Neighbourhood Bully past the first bolt. Move right again and climb a short right facing corner and bulge to View Ledge. The second pitch climbs the striking corner above."
(#2 seems the later/more detailed.)
it seems like the bolted belays are so that people dont need to carry up a more gear, or for the climb to be less committing
Neither of which seems a very legitimate reason, to me that is. But that's no reason to bring out the pitchforks and torches, either. It is a reason for some informed discussion - which may let the Little Smoke Bluffs Morals & Ethics Committee off the hook. Perhaps the question could be framed: "What about those unnecessary bolts?", so as to focus the discussion. On sight is dead as a doornail in Squamish - the vegetation mostly doesn't allow it. Rapbolting is a matter of style - although it can change the character of a route, if not the climbers. Unnecessary bolts imply much more, particularly in terms of compromises, expectations, and the future.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 14, 2012 - 12:00am PT
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so Mr. Foodeater, Sir,
What you're saying is once you and peder got shut down on your ground up attempts some one else came and rap bolted it.. Care to name names? or atleast initials?
I for one think its pretty lame the style and ethics of FAs just dont seem to matter around here any more..
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 14, 2012 - 12:07am PT
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"Rapbolting is a matter of style" ??
Anders, be careful what you print. There is no style with that technique. We could teach your cat how to operate a drill while hanging on a gri gri.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2012 - 12:07am PT
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Bruce-
The snow has been amazing lately! It's been soooooooooo deeeeeeeeeeep.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2012 - 12:09am PT
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Bruce- Still up in Stewart?
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 14, 2012 - 12:15am PT
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Anders, be careful what you print. There is no style with that technique. We could teach your cat how to operate a drill while hanging on a gri gri.
Funny that you mention it Hamish, I heard Anders had his cat up on slab alley and shes the one who convinced him to drill the extra bolts!
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Mar 14, 2012 - 12:30am PT
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"Ultimately , I think that putting up new routes is about ego and best to always remind ourselves of that. We did plenty of new routes back in the day because, like dogs lickin' our butts, it was easy to do." Quote Tami
Sooo....true , but i do so enjoy it!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 14, 2012 - 01:10am PT
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Bruce, I'm doing what I can to help the fish, which are more important than our squabbles here. And no, I won't say what it is. But you might be surprised. Buy me a beer sometime.
We could teach your cat how to operate a drill while hanging on a gri gri. More than I've ever taught her.
Jim, what about the slippery slope side of the debate? That is, that if we say that OK, a few nOOb routes should have unnecessary bolts, to get them off to a good start, are we encouraging them to think that that's how all routes are/should be?
Style: How a bolt is placed.
Behaviour/impact: How many bolts are placed.
A classic means/ends dichotomy.
I agree with gf and Hamish F - bolts should wherever possible, if not always, be placed on lead. (Excepting replacement projects, I hope.) But that's a matter of style, and challenge, or a rule so that the rock has a fair chance. The rock, and following climbers, won't care or perhaps notice how the bolt was placed. (Sometimes they should.) Whereas the more bolts that are placed - admittedly a process facilitated by rapbolting and other naughtiness - the greater the direct and indirect impacts. Also, that on sight bolting opportunities at Squamish aren't very common, although perhaps some climbers could open their eyes a bit.
The lovely cedar to which Jim refers is in this photo, about 4 m right and down from the base of the Split Pillar. The Pillar itself is detached at its base, and at least according to Jim and Ed expanded in 1961.
The tree's roots may reach the base of the Pillar, but may not. It's doubtful that they significantly increase stress on the Pillar. Has anyone measured where the roots are, whether they reach the base of the Pillar, and whether any stress or deformation has actually resulted? Rather than just taking cheap shots at an innocent tree, that is?
It would be a black day for Squamish climbing were anyone to vandalize or remove that tree, and a highly visible advertisement for climber irresponsibility. And even if the Pillar does eventually fall - much more likely as a result of earthquake action - so what? It will sooner or later, and that's natural processes. It doesn't take a genius to see that there were large rockfalls off the Grand Wall not long ago, possibly in the 1700 earthquake. The real question is what's holding the Pillar up, not to mention all the flakes poised above it? Thousands and thousands of tonnes of rock.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 14, 2012 - 01:35am PT
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But unlike a homeowner, I don't "own" the Split Pillar or Grand Wall, am aware of the natural forces they're subject to, and accept them. And I know it's a natural environment. There are other fine cracks, at Squamish and elsewhere.
Edit: I had a hand in removing the tree/stump that once was at the end of the first pitch of Exasperator. Not that it was going to cause Exasperator to fall apart. There wasn't much stuff in Penny Lane at all.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2012 - 12:19pm PT
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Bruce- You know better than to post such a large quote. Pick the important stuff out and provide the link... What you didn't like my snowboarding pic?
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Mar 14, 2012 - 02:30pm PT
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Fish, my point on the hypothetical single bolt anchors on Diedre is that so many beginners do it that either they wouldn't know any better than to plug in some gear, or they just wouldn't be bothered. I've seen something similar on the Butt Face where the belay after the crux is taken, so the next party up just belays off the single bolt a couple feet to the right of the actual belay.
I've missed all the pow :( I don't get to go anywhere other than Grouse, and on days they have snow, I end up working or something similarly unnecessary.
I haven't had a proper pow day yet this season. Anyone want to take me up somewhere?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2012 - 07:38pm PT
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Bruce- the trees are super sweet! And the only place we are able to see anyways even if the danger wasn't high.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2012 - 08:43pm PT
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Mimi- I forgot to address your compliment awhile back. Thank you!
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Mar 14, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
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For BK
All quiet up at the Duffy lately...thanks to mega-storms and scary bulletins!
Sorry. Is this off-topic?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2012 - 06:50am PT
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Saugy- No. The nice thing about letting those mountain bike photos in the summer go, is now we get to post skiing photos in the winter! :)
Conditions report from Whistler.
Deep!
Wow... long day....
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Mar 15, 2012 - 09:27am PT
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I'm getting ready to go get some right now..... finally!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 15, 2012 - 11:33am PT
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Bruce I too dispised the mtn fm slogan "no friends of a 20cm day". I even went out of my way to write those tools a letter expressing that they should be promoting the buddy system due to avy and tree well hazards and they brushed me off.
What a wack concept..
No Facebook on a pow day?!? What do ya think about that mike? Or do you just fb update mid day to make your injured friend (me) jealous?
Play safe out there everybody
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2012 - 02:25pm PT
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gf- Perhaps we should take the ski talk to another thread as not to de-rail this one. I think Bruce was trying to distract us from our subject :) There is a Powder thread that I have posted a few pics on. Powder
Bruce- No friends on pow days indeed. As a mountain rider I used to live by that slogan, until I lost a few friends and nearly got buried myself in alaska. I smartened up a bit after that one. As far as cameras, I also agree and I have very few pow shots. I find my phone quite handy to whip out and take a quick one, and after many years of no photos, I try and make the effort to take one or two good shots a day.
Luke- Not trying to make anyone jealous. Just share the stoke. I find posting stuff when it's happening is much more interesting. Plus i gotta do something when i'm sitting on a chair or resting after a good rip on the sled.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 15, 2012 - 04:50pm PT
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Not climbing, not from anywhere near Squamish. But it was -40 or so. Gratuitous historical skiing bump.
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MH2
climber
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Mar 15, 2012 - 08:14pm PT
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Who would want to get away from cedar? A bomber rappel roped or ropeless.
Good pic, too!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 15, 2012 - 10:37pm PT
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real drill bits
???
Garibaldi Park has suffered enough from the depredations of Whistler.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 15, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
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How the heck did helis get allowed in there n the first place...
The also seem concerned abouts bikes bikes in the park what do you guys think? I personally like the biking access in the singing creek and up the red heather/elfin lakes.
Anders your skis are tooth picks that's what Gfs saying! Hahaha not much surfaces area for surfing on the pow
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Mar 15, 2012 - 10:51pm PT
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hey anyone who uses the Whistler /Blackcomb back country should submit a comment right now to BC Parks:
Done
No problem with whipping it out at the top and bottom though!
Sorry Bruce, had to do it!
edit: This pic didn't garner the response I thought it might...so I delete
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 15, 2012 - 11:06pm PT
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The start of heli-skiing in the Spearhead Range goes back to the 1970s. After the big expansion at Whistler in the early 1980s - and removal of large pieces of Garibaldi Park - it became institutionalized, and grew.
It's sad how Whistler uses imagery of Garibaldi Park to promote itself, and has the park to provide activities, especially in summer - but has never done much for the park. You'd think they could at least support some trail work. But then, commercial operators often want to locate next to popular parks. In good cases, the relationship is symbiotic, and in poor ones, parasitic. Kind of like the current tourist gondola proposed for Squamish - the Chief and Shannon Falls parks already have hundreds of thousands of annual users, and are facing some pressure. Why not site the thing somewhere else nearby, but out of the parks?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2012 - 12:11am PT
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gf- Do you still prefer the skinny sticks for the light stuff over the new fatties these days?
MH- Nice pic!
Bruce- I love seeing smiling faces in the snow. Thanks for the pics :)
Interior Big Mike Snowbeard
You also mentioned the GRB recently, I had to run to Pemberton for some parts and shot this on the way back.
Can you tell us anything about Urban Blight? Sounds pretty interesting to say the least.
I only went to the GRB one time, I got about ten feet up Quartite Jugs, freaked out and downclimbed... It was dirty and wet and I was way too light back then.
Edit. Submitted- No helis, non-motorized, pro huts.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 16, 2012 - 02:17am PT
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I replied some weeks ago. Like Tami, I don't want heli-skiing in the park, and I don't want mtn bikes on the trails, Singing Pass, Helm Creek, Cheakamus Lake, or any of them. I disagree with Tami on the hut issue, though: look at the Plummer Hut in Waddington area. Nobody would go in there without tents, because the hut might be full of other people, even guided parties. If there was a hut system in the Spearheads, would anyone in their right mind go into that area without tents or a snow shovel? I hope not.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 16, 2012 - 02:36am PT
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If your basic assumption of parties on the Spearhead is to carry shovels and tents, why the push for wood frame accommodation to the unprepared or guided for ?
I'm not pushing for huts on the Spearheads; I'm opposed to them. My point is that huts attract people, huts fill up, and wise parties won't depend on the huts but will carry decent gear on the assumption that the huts will be full.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 16, 2012 - 02:39am PT
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I feel the bikes and hikes don't mix. There'z plenty o' trails for cyclists. And if U think not ? Build more for BIKES ONLY.
Absolutely correct, Tami. And one mtn bike will do more damage than a dozen hikers.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2012 - 03:42am PT
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To tell you the truth Tami, Terry O took that picture and he is short, so I think he was standing up on a curb and I mighta kneeled a bit :)
What about sledskiers? they mix pretty good :) no there is a place for all of us and tourers get the right side of the highway, and Sledders get the left. Except the Callaghan where they illegally banned us under the guise of the olympics..
At least here in Whistler.. Tourers get the Duffey too, it's all about terrain really.. If there is quick access terrain close to the highway or road access then it's setup for touring. if there's a 7 or 8k+ road to get to the alpine then, maybe more of a sled area..
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 16, 2012 - 11:07am PT
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I hear Parks is planning to build a mtn. bike only trail. Yahoo!
Don't confuse sleds with bikes. One has an engine, the other one is incredably good for your heart. One makes a lot of noise, the other one doesn't. One burns lots of gas, the other one doesn't.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2012 - 11:11am PT
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Sleds are such a non-issue though if you start talking about boats and airplanes and industry, our emissions are pretty small.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 16, 2012 - 11:27am PT
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Hey Big Mike, I'm not getting down on your sleds; it just hurt a bit when someone threw sleds and bikes in the same category.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2012 - 12:02pm PT
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Hamish F- agree totally. self powered and motorized are completely different.
Each has their own place.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 16, 2012 - 12:11pm PT
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Just so that everyone knows just how attainable that quality mountain biking experience is :
Our great friend Ward took up the sport in his early fifties, put in his time, got it dialed, and he currently rips.
He's skiid a few klicks and climbed a couple mountains in his time; never owned a sled though.
The only reason B.K. isn't an avid biker is because he hasn't put in the initial 100 hrs. of pain and suffering...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 16, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
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He's skiid a few klicks and climbed a couple mountains in his time;
Understatement-Of-The-Year award for that one.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 16, 2012 - 12:30pm PT
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pretty deep up there
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 16, 2012 - 01:37pm PT
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O.K. Tami, but this summer you are to report to Goldbridge, B.C., and take part in some state-of-the-art biking. Once you've gained the windy pass summit, you'll be able to reflect on your "easy access" writings.
It's really not that bad, but "easy" might be pushin it. :)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 16, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
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Can I come biking in goldbridge :)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 16, 2012 - 04:11pm PT
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The fact that the snowmobilers attempt to downplay the impacts of their activity by calling them "sleds" speaks for itself. Sorry, you can't spin that one. Snowmobiles (and ATVs, and dirt bikes, and sometimes bicycles) don't belong in parks. Only 13% of the province is parks - do it in the other 87%.
Snowmobiles and helicopters have a very limited place in wilderness.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
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Anders- I don't recall anyone saying motorized vehicles should be allowed in parks.
As for our impact, you are correct it does exist what about the impacts of resort skiing? (logging, commercializing a pristine valley, traffic in the corridor, air miles for foreign visitors, 80 cats burning diesel non-stop every night, lifts sucking juice all day long)
Touring is much more friendly but you still drive your cars to the parking lot don't you? Everything has it's impacts, and there is a place for everything.
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Mar 16, 2012 - 09:27pm PT
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what happened to the photos and stories?
(taking cover now, bomb away)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 16, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
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I for one would like to continue your adamant story.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 16, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
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Let's hear the rest of the Adamant story....!
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 17, 2012 - 12:39am PT
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Wow. This sure went off in a different direction while I was trying in vain to climb in Smith! If it gets back to something like climbing I'll respond to those questions that were posed about bolting rationale behind several of my routes.
Now back to your regularly scheduled bickering...
(Pro: hike and bike dedicated trails, huts on the Spearhead, sleds for access, rock routes being developed in a variety of styles.
Con: Heli access/ commercial heli ops in Parks, sleds beyond park boundaries, teaching Anders' cat to rap-bolt)
K
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 17, 2012 - 12:43am PT
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Several pages ago gf suggested a separate thread for biking, skiing, canoeing etc. Allow me to second that motion, and third it too. This thread started out with a few photos of climbing at Squamish. It then developed into a thread which covered both climbing at Squamish, and Squamish climbers climbing elsewhere. Personally I would like to see it stay that way. Rock, ice and alpine, both local and foreign [eg Alberta!] involving Squamish climbers might be a good parameter.
While discussions about bolting on-lead vs rap, hikers vs bikers, sleds vs backcountry or crosscountry skiing can be entertaining, and a good way to vent, they are essentially sterile. Noone ever changes their mind, and just becomes more entrenched. I am a keen skier, but feel that skiing posts should be restricted to more significant events than "another day in the trees". If someone skis something in the alpine, such as the Spearhead, the Wapta or Mt. Garibaldi, then post away. The more pix the better. Huckin' big air, or rippin' gnarly trees are more suited to another thread, or to Facebook. IMO. Important local access issues are an exception, and certainly deserve discussion and action.
Nice alpine skiing shot, Anders. Minus 40 is a bit excessive--make that totally excessive. Meanwhile I eagerly await the finale of the Austerity adventure. As I recall, you were hanging from a single fingernail, below a rapidly melting serac, as the light failed and the temperature plummetted.......
Meanwhile, another gratitous skiing photo:
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 17, 2012 - 02:28am PT
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Hiking in the Adamants. Just about as rough as coast hiking, somewhat character-building. All part of the experience - the original parties took a week or more to get in.
This is Swan Creek, leading up from Kinbasket Lake. Not sure why it's called Swan Creek. A trip in 1996, although the rappel story - to which I'll shortly return - is from 1972.
And not a helicopter, gondola or snowmobile to be seen. My rule of thumb is that if you can get somewhere in a long day, on foot, with a week's supplies, you should.
ps I nominate Hamish M for thread cop!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 17, 2012 - 03:05am PT
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Hi Hamie,
Sorry if my "gnarly tree riding photo" offended you, I guess the koots haven't been getting the dumpage that the squamish area has been these days(years). Sadly i'm not on Facebook so have nowhere else to share :-(.. I was just following the lead of the OP, awesome singing pass shots btw! Thanks for keeping things on track though Hamie! I agree with you, more climbing on this thread would be good so here you go.
Name this climb, should be easy.
took these shots last week, monday i think.
We are so lucky around here to have perfect climbing conditions one week then bottomless pow the next!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 17, 2012 - 03:30am PT
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Great pix tonight! Thanks to all.
It looks as if 4 or 5 posts were deleted? Hope I didn't offend anyone.
BK State of the art planks at the time. Got some 2012 Armada JJ rockers last month. Shorter and fatter. Me too. :]
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 17, 2012 - 10:38am PT
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I'm so sorry for writing anything about mountain biking. I just had to get a little sales pitch in there. Lots of climbers take up the sport; but I should've known better. It won't happen again.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2012 - 11:36am PT
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Ok. Ok I got a little carried away there too. I tried to steer bk away with my urban blight question, but no bites.
I've been waiting to hear the adamants story for way too long now and i would love to hear scrubbers opinion about routes.
Ryan d- thanks for the pics! Lotsa room for them on the powder thread.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 17, 2012 - 12:02pm PT
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Any of yo squamish folks wanna come for a spring trip to the valley? My girl and I just booked tickets from th 14th til hte 23rd.
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MH2
climber
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Mar 17, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
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This route, RyanD?
Robert started at the very bottom. Potential for a bad fall before the first bolt.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 17, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
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Andy, when you did that climb, had the stick clip disappeared? For a long time, there was a handy tree branch there, with which to clip the first bolt. As hard as anything on the rest of the route.
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MH2
climber
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Mar 17, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
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Stick clip? Tree? There was a shrub, once upon a time. It's gone. Robert started down and right of what the photo shows. I tried to warn him. I think his faulty memory got him in trouble, but skill and necessity got him to the bolt.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 17, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
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O.k., back to rock climbing tales of long ago.
This is steered in the direction of all the young guns, with their questions regarding new routing etc..
Even though our local cliffs often require scrubbing prior to climbing, you guys can still work together, or separately, and attain the ground-up experience.
The sunny climbing picture that was shown here this morning got me thinking about a route we put up as it was just around the corner.
Peder and I were hiking around the bluffs one day and spotted this potential beauty. Having received some flack from the powers that be, or were, about rapping down to scrub some of our (then) recent routes, Peder immediately stated he was going to return on his own and scrub that line clean.....for me.
What a guy.
He did a great job; by himself.
A week later we returned and I fired that nice little pitch first try. One bolt, a few r.p.s, several cams... it was Primo.
We also had a genuine experience on a beautiful arete, out to the right of apron strings. Clean as a whistle due to it's location, we never had to rap or scrub that climb. It did take several excursions to establish, as it was a tough nugget. That climb is two pitches, ending at the top of the Flake, and the belay at the end of the first pitch is an A-1 flake/horn that you sling. Old style; trying to do the least amount of impact.
That's how it was laid out in "Advanced Rockcraft" by Robbins.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 17, 2012 - 02:15pm PT
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MH2 that's the one. One of the more striking, lesser climbed 5.10 lines in the bluffs IMO. On the onsight i started down & right, exciting for sure. Second time i started in the easy corner to the right & hand traversed a rail out towards the arete which culminated in a sketchy unprotected mantle onto a 6inch ledge which when you stand up from the bolt is right there. Maybe technically easier but committing. 3rd time there i just walked to the top to take photo's of my friends. Great little pitch either way.
Hamish F, cool stories & i love the teamwork you guys implemented to maintain that pure experience. What pitch are you talking about in the bluffs? I am thinking you are talking about Sunday whites by apron strings, correct me if i'm wrong, thanks!
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pazzo
climber
Vancouver BC
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Mar 17, 2012 - 03:28pm PT
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Leading the crux pitch of Cerberus. Kinley Aitken and Senja Palonen can be seen to our left on Tantalus Wall.
Pic by MH2
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MH2
climber
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Mar 17, 2012 - 04:43pm PT
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Sunday whites is primo.
Please provide photo and story.
Welcome to pazzo. He's got some stories, too.
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MH2
climber
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Mar 17, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
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its really hard to handle a camera when your quivering your way up a blank 75 degree arete!
That's the story, then. Doesn't have to be long. Thanks. Hamish had a good one, too.
I once saw climbers on Sunday Whites.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 17, 2012 - 07:37pm PT
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Yup; camera, hilti, same basic problem.
I'm trying to figure out how to tell that story without it sounding just like the other ones.
Best thing about that route was the thank-god ledge about 50' up the arete. You could see that thing from the Pulp Mill. Eddie could've bivied on that little ledge.
Those were really hard fought bolts, leaning off the right hand wrapped around the arete, trying hard not to barndoor off into oblivion. I took a fall or two when my hooks ripped out the useless-looking edges/flakes. Eventually I was stumped so I stood on a bolt, or bat-hole, to drill a bolt. That was the only time I ever had to resort to that technique. Sketchy behavoir but that ledge was so far away and a fall would have definitely sent one over the edge. Then there would be an issue with the rope cutting on the edge. We justified our actions under the safety heading and the route still maintained an adventurous feeling.
Again, we were convinced we had a classic. Twenty years later I suppose it can't measure up to the immaculate second pitch of Apron Strings.
Oh well, Bruce liked it. I took some good photos of the Bear leading it but, of course, he has those; along with a bucket of other good pics.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Mar 17, 2012 - 11:35pm PT
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along with a bucket of other good pics.
He stores quite a few things in these buckets, eh? Boat rope from the Grand, pictures..... what else has he got hidden? ;)
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 17, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
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To answer your earlier question, Ryan, that bluff route is called Senate Seat.
It got shortened from it's original "Greg Scores a Senate Seat" in celebration of G.F. landing his buyer job at the co-op. It's over in Ronin's Corner, kinda high up on one of those cliffs. Another classic (in our own minds).
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 17, 2012 - 11:54pm PT
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The English had something of a tradition of partners gardening each other's pitches, so preserving as much of the on sight experience as was possible. Not sure how that worked on routes of two or more pitches - were you blindfolded when rappelling the pitches you would eventually lead?
And here are a few more photos from the Adamants, from trips in 1972, 1996, and 1999.
The latter two are of Mount Austerity, with its north ridge on the right. I've climbed the NW face twice. The bump just to Austerity's right is the Ironman - not sure as to the origins of the names. To get down from Austerity, you scramble and rappel down the west ridge to a saddle with the Ironman, up and over it, then one long rappel back to the glacier.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 17, 2012 - 11:59pm PT
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And some photos from climbing Austerity itself.
It's about six pitches, maybe 45 - 50 degrees, with the last pitch in the exit gully, as you can see, quite a bit steeper. Maybe 70 degrees?
This is looking down the exit gully from the ridge, from which it's a five minute scramble to the top.
So when we went there in 1972, we had two ropes, IIR one 3/8" x 150', the other 1/4" x 300'. All goldline. We used one single, the other double. For some of the things we did, including this, we climbed in one rope, with the leader (Leif) at the sharp end of the 3/8", Henry in the middle, and Ric and I at the lower end of the doubled 1/4", a few m apart.
Patience, forsooth! I'm setting the scene.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 18, 2012 - 01:12am PT
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I'm gonna' have to hit you up for some beta Anders, I'm heading into the Adamants in July for my first time.
Ok, back to route development, bolts, posturing and the like. Of the few routes I've dug out of the rainforest, most have been of the easy to medium difficulty level by today's standards. That being said, I definitely wanted them to be popular, because otherwise things just grow over here.
While I understand the nobility of bolting on lead and establishing routes ground-up, I don't necessarily believe it produces the best product in the long term. I have done some ground-up route development. It makes for some of the fondest and most vivid of my climbing memories. However, I often go back and add bolts or even change the line when the real grunt work of cleaning happens.
For example: The Ultimate Everything was climbed ground-up in one day except for the last two pitches with no bolts on its FA. Pitch 1-3, 5-7, and 11-12 of Millennium Falcon were established on lead with no previewing (p4, 8-10, and 13 were pre-cleaned and bolted later) The current line of Peasant's Route was climbed ground up in all it's bushy glory with only a single hand-drilled bolt at the top anchor to allow retreat. Pitch 1-3 of Polaris was done ground up just to discover if we could get to the obvious line of weakness above.
When I'm in a solid head-space, I love going for it from the ground. Unfortunately around here, that's rarely possible due to the amount of vegetation. Either that, or the route will in no way resemble what you originally climbed once it is denuded of its green blanket. Most of the clean lines that are sub-5.12 were picked over years ago. (Low hanging fruit as Tami called it).
As I mentioned before, I'm going for maximum user-friendliness of my routes. Sure, I may have had a grand adventure scaring myself shitless burrowing through the shrubbery, or running it out 60' above a tied-off knifeblade, but does anyone else think that's going to get repeated, let alone be popular? Why should I hold anyone to the standard of my FA if I don't want to? My "adventure and exploration" days have acquired a bit of a reputation among my partners. Most simply don't return my phone calls when my message includes anything to the effect of "go check out... or, an interesting looking line...."
After the line is (re)discovered, and deemed to be worth the effort of uncovering it, then the challenge is ensuring it will get enough traffic to keep it appealing. This to me means relatively safe protection, decent belay stances where possible, and sometimes, the ability to rap the route without leaving most of your rack behind in the unlikely event that it starts raining.
The number of bolted belay stations on The Ultimate Everything in particular has garnered criticism over the years. There are 8 of 10 stations bolted. The other two are large trees with permanent rope/rap ring anchors. The route is almost entirely 5.8-5.9, so I tried to design it for a 5.9 leader, not a 5.11 leader. Sure you could add about 5 more anchors as trees instead of bolts, but they would have been in poorer spots, created erosion around the bases of those trees, and in my opinion detracted from the overall experience of the route. If you'd rather use the trees, go right ahead. The stations simply allow for relatively straightforward retreat, and a good line-of-sight to your partner. Most of the grumbling has come from climbers significantly above the 5.9 skill level. Coincidence?
As always, I'm open to any and all comments, criticisms, accolades, free booze, recommendations, threats of bodily harm, etc, etc, regarding the routes I've tried to bring to the community. In fact, why don't we do it over a few pitches of climbing? There's this line I've been wanting to have a closer look at....
Kris
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 18, 2012 - 01:28am PT
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BK That's a great video of the Koots. Thanks. I think that we may have more than our share of the 'good stuff'.
Anders was being either coy or modest when he mentioned the NW face of Austerity, as he was in the FA party. Ooooooops, did I spoil the story?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 18, 2012 - 11:17am PT
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O.K., fair enough. I can learn and grow to accept there are different pursuits being played out on the beautiful cliffs of Squamish.
My scrubbing days may have added up to ten, give or take. Kris must be into the hundreds by now, and has obviously delivered way more enjoyable days of climbing to the masses than I ever did.
I was a lot more stubborn and probably more consumed with my own experience. I never gave much thought to creating the ultimate "product" for all the climbers that would follow. I assumed if I could drill the bolt, others could clip it, and chances were it was going to be in the perfect spot. It never would have dawned on me to return to a route and add more bolts.
My attitude may have been a little more on the "if you can't stand the heat, stay outta the kitchen" jingle. I always thought that was one of the endearing qualities of climbing; not every route had to be for every climber.
I would imagine that on any given sunny summer day, there are more people climbing one of Kris's routes than all of the ones I had a hand in creating put together. We were always convinced we'd put up a classic, but as the decades pass by, maybe we were exaggerating. Perhaps in the future; the best part of it is these routes will last forever.
Kris deserves an enormous amount of thanks for all of his work unearthing quality multi-pitch routes for everyone.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 18, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
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Thanks for the kind words Hamish. If I was here fifteen years earlier as part of your generation of new routers, my approach to development may have been much closer to yours and Peder's. (if I could climb that hard!)Even to me, thinking of a route as a "product" for the masses leaves a bit of a sour taste. But it is a fact. There is a finite resource around here for development. If the route will forever be held to the standard of the first ascentionist's vision for it, then I choose for most of my routes to get traffic.
If we lived in an area with more rock, or less aggressive vegetation growth, I would probably put up more routes in the style that I first climb them. I have the utmost respect for the routes you guys and gals stuck your necks out on before I even knew what rock climbing was. After living here for fourteen years, I'm still trying to get the cahones to try some of the pitches you established. They will always be a testament to the tenacity of climbers like you guys.
I feel there's room for various development styles within every climbing area. Sure, it usually feels like an there's an overall theme to someplace like the Valley, vs Smith Rock, vs Indian Creek, but within that, varying styles were employed. If future generations view my contributions as a bit cushy compared to other routes, that's okay. If we all wanted the exact same thing or experience, there would be only a few very crowded routes.
Come on sunshine! I wanna' go climbing!!!!
K
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 18, 2012 - 02:03pm PT
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Maybe I could make my climbing stories more exciting by adding a few "forsooths" here and there.
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MH2
climber
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Mar 18, 2012 - 02:38pm PT
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It's good that Squamish can handle a variety of new-routing styles. Today, people who may have begun climbing in a gym are fortunate to have outdoor routes that bridge some of the distance between the gym and old school climbing.
The Forsooths? Aren't they near the Reisenstein?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
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Here is a story for Scrubber. My first time on Ultimate Everything, was my first real "Epic". To set the scene, I was with two friends who were pretty new and I had led more trad pitches but I was pretty green too.
Kyle was going to split the pitches with me, but was nervous about it because of his near ground fall on Mosquito (as a result of a run-out.) the previous fall.
Like I said, we were new. We had done Dierdre, Bannana Peel a bunch of times and I had seconded Calculus and a lot of single pitch easy trad around the valley.
I don't know what gave us the idea that a party of three would be smart.. None of us had a full Chief ascent under our belts yet, and we didn't even know a fourth with enough gear to come with us, so up we went.
We got a leisurely start at the Apron parking lot about eight. We saw Big Jim and invited him to come with us, but he declined unfortunately. We hiked up to the base of Bananna Peel and pulled the gear out of the packs. We had two ropes and my rack of singles with nuts for doubles to 2". The plan was that the leader would go, then bring up the second, who would bring up the third, Switch ends, lead next pitch, so on and so on. Wow.. slow. We didn't have any traffic in our way and nobody was behind us, which was a good thing.
Eventually we make it up to the top of the Apron and cross the south gully to the base of the Ultimate Everything. I managed to convince Kyle he should lead the first pitch since it had a bolt he would be more comfortable. He had a bit of trouble with the crux as we didn't know the sneak move. Some tenacity got him around the corner and got he got going, and he went, for quite awhile. He missed the anchor because we were under the misconception that the top of the corner was where the anchor was, so eventually he gets to the end of his rope, and it didn't even come to me to continue climbing.... so we sat there for while. He said he put a cam in and just sat there.
There was a couple parties waiting by this point, and one of them offered to pass us and go see what was going on. I agreed since I had no idea what was going on and no inclination to simulclimb. Once they got up to Kyle, they built him a gear anchor and lowered him on their rope, to the anchors. When I got up to the belay, Kyle explained what had happened
and stated that he was not leading any more pitches today and that I was going to have to lead the rest if we wanted to get up this thing. I agreed. To be fair we had next to no mentoring and were pretty much figuring stuff out as we went, and he was was still super freaked out about the "Mosquito Incident".
Everything went pretty smooth after I figured out that you go right on the second pitch and placed a sh&&ty nut right before the bomber bolt. Until we got to the second to last pitch up the dyke and things started to get dark... I brought the boys up and set out with my headlamp on, up the 11b/10a A0 pitch. By the time i'd slung the first bolt, it had started to rain. I heard the boys whispering at the bottom, "It's starting to rain", "Yeah but don't tell Mike!" as if I hadn't noticed. I got up the
darn thing and brought them up.
The rain wasn't too bad more mist really, but it was pretty damn dark out. None of us had been up to center peak before but we headed instinctivly towards first peak until we got to the open slabs near the edge and got freaked out. I looked around, and the marker for the North peak linkup trail flashed at me. We decided to go that way and decended the trail to an amazing view of squamish lights from the North? Gully. We proceded down the very dark North Peak trail with one Headlight and two very hot lighters
between the three of us. I would go 10 feet then turn around and shine the light for them and then they would come to me repeat adnausem. This took a very long time...
We got back to the car around 2am. We barely made it there.. I thought I was going to collapse on the highway at one point. Fortunatly Tim Hortons was still open when we drove by on the way back to Whistler so we went there and ate what seemed to be the best sandwiches in the world.
We were light. For sure.. Still figuring it all out. Kyle didn't lead trad for five years after that one.
Edit: AD-A-MANTS!, AD-A-MANTS, AD-A-MANTS!
+1 what Kris said!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2012 - 03:32pm PT
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cool! climb up, snowboard down :)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 18, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
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We were always convinced we'd put up a classic, but as the decades pass by, maybe we were exaggerating. Perhaps in the future; the best part of it is these routes will last forever.
Hamish, just because a climb isn't gang banged by the masses every saturday doesn't make it un-classic. IMO many of the climbs you have mentioned up thread are in fact very classic- classic test pieces actually. Routes with a reputation that were put up in a bold, adventurous style. Maybe not accessible for everyone but much prouder of a tick i would say to do a classic test piece as opposed to a trade route classic. Trade route will be fun & beautiful but you will remember the whimpering you did on the test piece for the rest of your days regardless of the grade often making for a richer experience. I've always wondered about Senate Seat, rad that it was an onsight FA. The headwall cracks look beautiful, nice line for sure. Might have to give it a flail this spring.
Kris, i have climbed many of your routes & appreciate the generous approach you have to new routing with intentions for others. It is unique & creative & i think you have found a good balance of cleaning/bolting tactics on your routes. I don't believe that every new route needs to be done in this style but it is really cool that we have a selection of climbs like this amongst the other new route styles around here. Really looking forward to getting on Polaris this summer as well, saw a TR on CC.com & it looks like a stellar climb!
Thanks so much to everyone who scrubs in Squamish and has/does put up new routes!
Ok it has stopped raining, c'mon wind!!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 18, 2012 - 06:24pm PT
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Kris, that's an interesting story about the origin of the UE. When I do the "comfortized" routes, I avoid using any of the bolts except those that are necessary. Helps me keep a clean conscience, plus of course I have an affinity for tree and shrub anchors. And if these routes are a "product", I may be part of the target market - has been or never was, usually OK up to mid 5.10. So don't place any extra bolts for me.
It would be interesting to hear Jeremy's thoughts about this, forsooth. He tends to be rather forthright.
I haven't created many new routes, or restored many old ones. But in doing so, my goal was to climb a bit of rock in as good style as I could, allowing for the environment. I hoped that others might enjoy the climbs, and certainly didn't want to make a mess or do them in poor style. So some have been truly onsight, some rappel cleaned but then led, etc. And I've mostly resisted later pressure to dumb down those climbs.
And here's a photo from the summit of Austerity, of the Blackfriars. So called because the Dominicans were popularly known as the black friars, as they wear black habits. (Another order were the white friars.) The peak looks a bit like two monks, with cowled hoods.
The east side of the peaks in the Adamants is quite alpine, but the west side, in particular the Austerity-Blackfriars cirque, has some quite large rock faces. It's about two days hike from the trailhead.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 18, 2012 - 09:10pm PT
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Lots of room for both styles. And a few others, as well. No matter who you are, there will always be climbs that, even though they were originally done in faultless ground-up style, are so far beyond you that all you can do is marvel. And applaud. Likewise, even if you're the hardest of the hardmen at whatever style, there will be routes originally done in gumby style that are just so much fun that you love them anyway.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 18, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
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So there I was, on an exposed ledge just below the top of the Ironman, in the dark. (No headlamps or flashlights.) Leif, Henry and Ric had rappelled first. We used both ropes - one 3/8" x 150', the other 1/4" x 300' - for the rappel. Which meant that it was the 1/4" rope through the rappel slings. Given that there was a knot joining the ropes about 75' below the anchors, a carabiner brake wasn't possible. They'd gone with a sling and carabiner, to separate the ropes, but it hadn't worked. The ropes were thoroughly twisted, and wouldn't budge. Which was a bit of a problem, in that we had a glacier to cross. Plus, of course, it was a bit windy, so communications weren't very good.
Based on crevasse rescue practice (photo upthread), I thought I could work it out. After lots of shouting, I started to rappel, with a carabiner and sling to hold the ropes apart. I was all set for prusiking. When I got to the knot, I of course couldn't get past it. So I put the prusiks on the ropes, through an improvised chest harness, and on my feet. Stood up, got off rappel, got the carabiner past the knot, reversed the process, and slid the rest of the way. Leif was waiting to field me, a few m below - it was icy, and he'd put on his crampons and climbed up, worried of course that I'd make a mistake. Once I was down, the ropes pulled. We got back to Fairy Meadows in the wee hours, with a waning moon shining on the roof for the last bit down the moraine.
The Ironman rappel is also notorious for eating ropes. We were lucky that time, but not in 1999.
Early experiences teach well - knowing basic prusiking, and being able to put it in action at awkward times, has been very handy.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Mar 19, 2012 - 01:33am PT
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I think Robin B said it well when speaking about seldom done, hard and committing routes.
" sometimes you have to leave future generations with some thing to aspire to"
Hamish sure has put up some classics to shoot for!
Anyone have any stories about the first ascent of Dream On? Who led the crux pitch?
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Mar 19, 2012 - 03:21am PT
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Nice story Mike. UE was my second ascent to the top of the Chief after the Butt Face, and I did it with a guy I had met a couple weeks earlier on the Apron. Got an early start, and we topped out before two. That was also the day I climbed Slab Alley..... Wow I was green back then. Not saying I have a boatload of experience now, but I was still super new.
Now, I know Luke forbade us from telling stories about each other, but your mention of an epic reminded me of mine and Eric's first (and for me only) time up Angels Crest.
I think this was around late July/early August maybe? We set out fairly early, in order to give us the time to locate the base of the climb and the pitches after that, as we knew it involved some route finding.
We got on the trail just off MFSR. I still don't know if it was the right trail or not, but it didn't exactly lead us in the direction we wanted to go. We decided that up towards the Chief was the best way to go, trail or not, so away we went. Then we came back down. Then up again. This was to set the tone for the rest of the day.
After around two hours of being lost, we finally got the base of AC. Fourth classed the first pitch or two, got to Angel Crack, Eric led that nicely. I followed fairly easily, although it was my first time climbing at that level with a pack, which threw me off a bit. My turn to lead the .10c face (which didn't feel like .10c) and it was a little damp, but no biggy. I got through the cruxy section alright, placed a cam in the nice slot, stemmed out right on the big nub, and BAM. Foot pops, down I go. I believe that was my first fall on a cam. Stoked on that one.
Up the next little area without too much difficulty, until the pitch that in the book says to go right at the juggy flakes. We missed that part, instead choosing to take the .10d left variation (there's a picture of it in the early pages of this thread). Neither of us had climbed at that level before, much less onsight, which resulted in our french freeing the entire pitch. That took some time, and was depressing to say the least.
We went smoothly for a little while after that, save for me getting a cam stuck on the next .10 pitch, and working it out myself to save Eric the trouble. A little bit lost on the pitch that is next to the offwidth there, but we made it work. We also got a little lost at the base of the Acrophobes.
All went smoothly until the second last pitch. By this point, we were both so tired and bummed out, that all we wanted to do was get to the top, and then get down. Eric took a fair while to get up that pitch pulling on gear, and I followed suite. I think I used like only two or three free moves and the rest was that lovely frenchy technique.
I got the stupid chimney, and took my sweet time figuring out the best way to swing myself into space after belly crawling through there. I then pulled on gear for most of the rest of the pitch, bitching the entire way.
By the time Eric was up, it was around 9 PM. We got lost on the way down, and ended rapping down in between second and first peak. I still don't know where the tourist trail goes there. Luckily Eric had two headlamps, as I hadn't thought to brought mine.
By the time we got down, it was almost 11. Got home at midnight. First epic, and one that has deterred me from wanting to give Angels another shot. Anyone want to go it with me this summer sometime?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 19, 2012 - 10:30am PT
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Oh you guys are hillarious! I enjoy reading your stories a lot.
Don't think you're alone on the bushwacking-off-trail ordeals under the north walls; everyone made those same mistakes. All those trails look the same, especially from the logging road.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 19, 2012 - 10:51am PT
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Awesome!!! Ha Ha! I've done that route probably 20 times and walked the trail two or three times that much, but I still second guess where it starts sometimes. It's pretty common to dive into the trees, only to find the that's not the one you were looking for.
The recent addition of the signs definitely help. A slightly earlier version of them was spearheaded by a friend of mine who was involved in the rescue attempt after Ben DeMenche's accident below the Sheriff's Badge. In the rush to get back up there and try to help, the wrong trails were taken several times, eating up precious minutes. The outcome would not have changed, but it highlighted a problem for rescue attempts in the future. When there are half a dozen nearly identical little trails ducking into the jungle within a kilometer, you need to be able to tell them apart when time is of the essence.
Interesting Barley quote there Rolf. Some days it feels like there may not be a single pitch under 5.12 left to develop by the time he gets too old to hold a brush.
K
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Mar 19, 2012 - 11:20am PT
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Another short story from this past summer..... Most of the people who frequent SC will know this one, but for the enjoyment of our American friends.
I think it was my second time going up the Butt Face...... I met some guys who invited me to join them on their first trip up it..... I didn't have any of my stuff with me, so I made up a harness out of webbing.
At the first pitch of the Buttress route, it was jammed all to hell with three or four parties in front of us, so we just chilled out. Sonnie Trotter comes along with a bro to throw another bolt in at the Butt Face crux, so we just chatted with him for a bit while waiting. Super nice guy. He liked my harness.
Anyways, we see this big ass helicopter coming along, and we weren't sure what the deal with it was, but it headed towards the North Walls and we forgot about it.
Found out later that what had happened was a BASE jumper went off of second peak somewhere and got blown back into the trees along Angels Crest. Someone else saw this happen and called Squamish SAR to give him a hand. That was the chopper we were watching.
They got over to him, and he refused their help, saying he'd figure it out on his own. Apparently, he got down from the trees, made his way up to the top of second peak, and called SAR back to tell them he was okay, and he'd be back in a couple days to get his chute.
How's that for gnarly?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 19, 2012 - 11:33am PT
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Super rad ass, getting yourself out of what you got yourself into is the number one rule.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
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Nice story nathan. :) I of course have a similar tale of bushwacking under the north walls on my first angels ride. We even had a buddy with us who had been there before! I'll tell that little ditty later.
The new signs certainly were nice. Eric I wanna hear about the screamer incident ;)
it sounds like you are missing the second half of that killer 10a second to last pitch of angels. Straight up! Keep the pump away to make it to the top and there's a super sweet ledge with a bolt belay.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Mar 19, 2012 - 12:44pm PT
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Last summer, sitting on the deck of the pub in Squamish, we watched some very ballsy young dude , ride his mountain bike down the exposed exit slab off Broadway.
I think George H was there filming, or as backup, to call 911 if the kid missed the turn off before the Mobius variation, and some realy big air.
Everyone in the pub was on their feet watching, a real nail biter!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 19, 2012 - 01:01pm PT
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P'terodactyls were nesting on the Chief when I first climbed there. It was a Lost World, full of Lost Boys (and Girls). The primeval feeling under the north walls is really something.
Tami: As I was quite unathletic, and the triathlon wasn't invented until long after 1972, no connection.
Several jumpers at Squamish have now been saved by trees, when they were blown into the wall.
The silly stunts ("look at me, everybody!!") that a few insist on performing get rather tiresome. (Like riding a bicycle down the Apron.)
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Mar 19, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
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we watched some very ballsy young dude , ride his mountain bike down the exposed exit slab off Broadway.
I met that guy..... we were walking off the Apron together and he was telling me about riding his bike down it for a magazine shoot. Reasonably good climber as well.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 19, 2012 - 04:35pm PT
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Well, by that time there were the lost boys, Tami, and the lightweights, aka the lost girls. Daryl was social director, and kept careful track of us.
Simon tells a story about rescuing a parachutist sometime in the early 1980s, IIRC from Lay Lady Ledge. They had to climb El Cap Tower, then rappel down. Is that the same 'rescue' as yours, Jim?
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 20, 2012 - 12:12am PT
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Ahhh, those days where everything goes wrong are the best ones to reminisce about, providing you live through them! Thanks for the grins.
At least you climbed on dry rock today. I got VERY dirty making mud pies at the Papoose.
K
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 20, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
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I know it's not Squamish, but check out "The Shining" route by Sonnie Trotter and Tommy Caldwell. Bolted on lead; these guys have some serious skills. Just while we're on the topic of saving stuff for future generations...
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 20, 2012 - 12:57pm PT
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Hamish did you put that bolt of senate seat in on lead? or did peder put it in for you?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 20, 2012 - 02:13pm PT
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No no no, Peder scrubbed the pitch. I drilled the bolt on lead. It was relatively easy. I think there was a ledge there or something. It's about ten or fifteen feet above that bolt where it gets tough.
The whole gist of my little blurb about senate seat was getting your buddy to clean a new pitch for you, thereby fascilitating your true climbing experience of starting at the bottom.
This was in response to Anders stating that ground-up climbing in Squamish is pretty much dead.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 20, 2012 - 04:55pm PT
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I'll drill on lead if it's even slightly clean and not too hard for me. So who's gonna' scrub me a pitch?
Hamish! I'm calling you out of retirement to clean me a pitch after I handed you and Greg Heatwave on a silver platter :) (kidding of course...)
K
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 21, 2012 - 12:46am PT
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BK How about knickers and BLUE socks?
This is in Alta, so I suppose it's a foreign trip.A very scarey day----the first day of hunting season!
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Mar 21, 2012 - 01:32am PT
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Another first ascent in BC done in knickers while climbing under the guidance of Carlos Castenadas
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 21, 2012 - 10:57am PT
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Does any one know who did the FFA of liquid gold? Cool lookin line, any one here ever climb it?
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MH2
climber
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Mar 21, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
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I believe Harry Young worked on cleaning it up and may also have done the FFA. I've done it. The cracks at the top are good.
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Mar 21, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
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The Harper regime is going to do irreversible damage to British Columbia, and in the process alienate our greatest ally the Americans, and commit us to alliances with a criminal regime, the CCP ( Chinese Communist Party ) which has little respect for human rights among other evils.
What going on at the federal level in Canadian government right now is disgusting, and very damaging in the long term.
Opanalox could probably tell us more of the insidious details, re: the gutting of the environmental review processes.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 21, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
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As much as I agree with the above comments, I come here to read about climbing and climbing related stuff. I get my fill of political corruption, back room deals, and environmental terrorism on other websites, forums and from various other sources. I wish this forum would take a queue from other on line forums and limit off topic discussions to a separate page.
It would sure be nice to tune-in to the front page of this forum and only have climbing stuff to peruse instead of US political rantings, bird watching, techniques for unclogging a toilet, and shopping for the best home defense shotgun. I've watched more than a few forums come and go in the last few years as things simply degenerate into pissing contests and completely unrelated rants. If we don't keep it on track, someone else is going come along and make the next popular climbing forum and this one will shrivel up. We've seen it with Gripped's forum, RC.com, Cascade Climbers and more. This place is usually great. Can we keep it that way?
Okay I'm kicking the soapbox back to the middle of the room now. Sorry for the digression if it offended anyone. I intend no offense bmacd.
Kris
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 21, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
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Yea, What he ^^ said!
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 21, 2012 - 01:59pm PT
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On another climbing related note; providing I haven't burned many bridges with that last comment, I'm looking for picks! My favorite weapon of moss destruction over the last few years has been old Stubai technical ice axes. The ease of replacing the taper-fit picks and the durability of the shaft and head have made them the burliest weapon in my quiver.
I'm on my third Stubai axe, and my very last pick. Over the years folks have been extremely generous with giving me their old ice axes and ropes for cleaning projects. I'm appealing to the climbers of the area to search the bottoms of their old gear bins and closets to ferret out any old picks you may have left. Once I wear about two inches off the pick it becomes not as useful for anything below a hand-sized crack. Here's a picture of a worn down one for reference.
I don't care what pick style they are, I've used them all. Even if they had a small section of the tip snap off I'll take them. I'm even experimenting with welding on longer picks to my stubs, but so far they're not holding up to the abuse.
Thanks for taking the time to look!
Kris Wild
PS. For any of you other aspiring crack excavators, I have a few extra old donated mountaineering axes I'm willing to donate to someone else's cause.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 21, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
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Kris; thats you working on the left side of the papoose? I saw ropes there last season; whens it gonna be open for business?
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 21, 2012 - 02:28pm PT
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Bruce I agree with you that his comments are bang on and that it warrants attention. It's just that so often a thread degenerates into nothing but political or ethical ranting. That's great, I just with it could be contained in a new thread. I know things are unlikely to change around here. I was just giving my $.02
Back to climbing in Squamish, hopefully...
Luke, yes, that debris cone is of my making. The route is Hanging Gardens 5.8 A1 from 1965. It will have a new, more direct first pitch, and will likely weigh in at mid 5.10 once it's finished. It probably has one or two days left to finish it up. (Anchors, dusting, etc.)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 21, 2012 - 04:26pm PT
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Thanks, Kris - I was wondering when someone would have a look at Hanging Gardens. Perhaps just for once some sort of renaming may be justified, given that there won't be gardens there any more. It was an unusual climb or bushwhack or whatever you call it. Have you talked with John Coope about it?
And I agree with Bruce regarding non-climbing threads. It adds to the diversity, information and entertainment, and since the purge most of those involved in such threads also contribute to climbing threads. As long as they keep it to a dull roar, with say one thread for US politics, one for whackjob conspiracy theories, one for religitards, and passing threads for current events. As long as it's not more than say 1/3 or 1/2 of the threads on the front page at any time.
The twitchers (birders) and dog lovers can have their own threads, too.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 21, 2012 - 04:30pm PT
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Speaking of dogs (and Hanging Gardens), has anyone in modern times looked at Overhanging Gardens?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 21, 2012 - 09:00pm PT
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Why would anyone want to change the name? or any name? Hanging Gardens is great, and [obviously] a clever juxtaposition with the hanging gardens of Babylon, and 'Early Squamish' conditions. There is rarely, if ever, any justification for changing the name of a route. Anyone wanting to name a route should find and climb their own. No reference to Kris, as he did not suggest this. Cleaning a route is just 'hanging gardening' anyway.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 21, 2012 - 09:13pm PT
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I had a look at Overhanging Gardens when I first rapped off the top in the wrong spot to put up my fixed lines. (after climbing HG in it's original condition) It looks like it has a half pitch of decent climbing (lots of old pins under the arching overhang), but it would require about 5 moves of aid on a horizontal bolt ladder to access the climbing. Half of the old ladder is still there, the others have rusted off completely. I honestly don't think it would go free from what I could see.
Bear in mind that the two routes are reversed in the last three McLane guides. Hanging Gardens traverses in from the right, then goes straight up the nice shallow left-facing corner systems. Overhanging Gardens branches out left from the former route about halfway up the second pitch. Take a look at the old Smaill, Campbell, or Anders' guide for the real deal.
I don't want to rename it Anders. I like the prospect of the confusion it will invoke when people try to understand why a nice clean corner was ever called that. I was sure to destroy all photographic evidence of what it looked like "before", and believe me, it certainly did deserve the name.
I was just a bit too late to have it included in the upcoming new Bourdon select guide. Kevin has said it will be included in his upcoming new comprehensive guide in it's new condition.
K
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 21, 2012 - 10:10pm PT
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Scubber, thanks for not renaming it. The route may now be clean and free of green, but the name hints at some of the history of the route. Shame to lose that.
Yeah, I wouldn't think that Overhanging Gardens would go free, but with what you modern climbers are doing now, nothing would surprise me now. Filthy but sort of fun climb in my day.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 21, 2012 - 10:18pm PT
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Ok, now I want to know the most obscure routes any of you've done on the Chief. Mine was probably Green Thumb. Now that would be an epic cleaning mission...
Who here has climbed Northwest Passage, Zodiac Wall, Echelon, Caramba Crags, or other near forgotten routes?
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MH2
climber
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Mar 21, 2012 - 10:43pm PT
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I thought Mr. Ticklebits was a very "green" route. Or was it Picklebits? I think Reacharound is a candidate for obscure, also. Hiphugger was not much travelled when we did it but maybe less so, now. Has anyone done On Tilt lately? Raindance and the corner above it, two or three times. South Arete doesn't see the use it deserves. Survival of the Flatus.
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Mar 21, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
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whose boat rope is fixed on the south end of the papoose ? I saw the dirt cone at hanging gardens, impressive. scrubbing doesnt entitle one to name change though.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
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bmac- read a little closer you might find out.
As far as thread drift or "bounce" I enjoy a bit from time to time as long as it doesn't get out of hand which it has a bit lately.. Fortunatly there seems to be enough people around here who care to call for focus and steer us back on topic.
If something really warrants discussion start a new thread and copy some of the conversation from here over there. Still might start that snowmobile vs. skier thread.
Sounds like another gem Kris! Can't wait to get on it.
Took a look at Hiphugger a week and a half ago, looked a little scruffy, but manageable, but it was also a bit wet. I had thought of giving it a little scrub.
Me and Kyle did South Arete a couple years ago. I lead the first pitch through the wide and quite enjoyed it actually until I ended up setting up a gear anchor on the flake feature just below the roof, because I was unsure if I would have enough big gear to set one up anywhere else and I could get some small cams in there.
I swear I thought that flake was going to break. I had a cam in the handcrack backing it up, but I thought I could feel it flexing as I sat on it belaying Kyle. When he finally got up there he was pretty bagged, I guess he had a rough go with the wide section... (Being tall does help sometimes.)
He seemed thoughly unimpressed with my gear anchor, (He really hated them anyways) and I just gave him this look like "Ya me neither." I flipped the rope and grabbed the gear from him, and headed up over the roof. The rest of the climb was quite enjoyable, definetly a good alternative if you've done everything else.
I definetly recommend more people check it out.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 21, 2012 - 11:05pm PT
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scrubbing doesnt entitle one to name change though.
I wouldn't dream of it. That was Anders' comment. It could have the most ludicrous name in the world, but if I clean it up, its still that route, and it has a history long predating me.
As to the boat rope. Does it go up a whole pitch or more? Or is it just a little fixed line at the base just to the right of Centerfold? If the latter is the case, I believe Robin B. put it there. He cleaned and finished an old project of John H.'s , and "opened up" the area around the base during the early winter. He had a good chuckle over my debris cone too.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 21, 2012 - 11:31pm PT
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Ok, now I want to know the most obscure routes any of you've done on the Chief. Mine was probably Green Thumb. Now that would be an epic cleaning mission...
Green Thumb? Wow, haven't heard that name in years...
For me, probably the Chlorophyll Variation of the North-North Arete. Or maybe the complete North-North Gully. That one is memorable for me for one reason only. Or maybe Kiddie Corner on the Squaw.
Or maybe it's the easiest route on the Apron.... (quick, what's it called?)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 21, 2012 - 11:42pm PT
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Mike; kris' proj is at the north end.. read a bit closer and you might know that :)
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 21, 2012 - 11:45pm PT
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Or maybe it's the easiest route on the Apron.... (quick, what's it called?) The Groove? climbed it... once, and that's a good story...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2012 - 11:54pm PT
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oops :) tell it!
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Mar 22, 2012 - 01:09am PT
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I dont have a static enough internet connection to peruse much detail online these days. Life is tuff in these dusty campgrounds, swillin Listerine and bangin cheap Vegas hookers in between epic sandstone ascents
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 22, 2012 - 01:16am PT
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Sorry Kris, but I like my picks hanging on the wall. You can do this, and pretty well anything else if you're single.As I have said before, "Being tired, cold and scared is not nearly as much fun as it used to be."
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Mar 22, 2012 - 01:17am PT
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And back to climbing........ Rain Dance. Ivan and I always thought there may be a good continuation after the first pitch, but after climbing it, we became focused and obsessed with Dirty Little White Boys and never revisited it. It may be worth a look see again. Thanks for stirring the old memories, Andy.
Ivan may have been the antithesis of the classic Squamish, hard man, climber of the day. His story is worth mentioning. He was totally unconcerned with climbing convention, attitude or style. He wore his baseball cap backwards before it was popular, wore camouflage pants and sported tattoos down to his finger tips , not as a trend, but just as his style. A massive 210 lbs of old school logging redneck, but a temperament of a pussy cat. I met him when he was soloing Cat Crack in his cowboy boots, he thought climbing looked interesting and decided to give it a go. That was the beginning of a 10 year friendship and numerous, joint first ascents.
There were many times climbing in Squamish, we'd be surrounded by the Lycra clad climbers "du jour," that would scoff and sneer at his unconventional dress, only to watch in amazement as he would float up some of the hardest slab test pieces of the day, baseball cap on backwards.
He was a bit of a collector, first ascents, gear, cams, anything associated with climbing.
Last I heard, he was into collecting guns, and showed up at the Squamish gun range with a 50 caliber, WW II , tripod mounted machine gun. While everyone was popping off single rounds, he quietly set up his 50 cal, with a belt feed and blew the sh#t out of his target.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 22, 2012 - 01:48am PT
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Rolf: Please tell the story about Ivan and the tree he felled at the base of the Grand Wall. (Pre-park.)
Ok, now I want to know the most obscure routes any of you've done on the Chief. Mine was probably Green Thumb. Now that would be an epic cleaning mission...
That's the kind of discussion that will drive away most of the Yankees. They'll be horrified, disgusted, and flabbergasted. Obscurities that even Ed H might not bother with. The only thing worse would be discussing whether Stephen Harper is real or an android.
There is a subjective element to it, in that in the right (wrong) conditions, some climbs that may otherwise be relatively decent can be obscure, or worse. For example, ascending North Gully in a rainstorm, or full winter conditions. And a route full of trees, moss, shrubs and lichen when first climbed can gradually clean up (or be cleaned up), and become something worthwhile. (NTTIAWW routes full of trees, moss, shrubs and lichens, especially cedars.)
Now to think up some stories of past tales of derring-do, usually fighting the elements as well as obscurity. We did some fairly obscure exploratory stuff in the 1970s particularly. Not routes in any real sense, and no name or grade or anything, but certainly "climbs".
There is a fairly long list of routes at Squamish that may never have had a second ascent, though. Northwest Passage is one. Zodiac Wall was repeated by Steve and Hugh in 1970, and almost repeated by Daryl, Stu and another in about 1978.
(I wasn't suggesting that Hanging Gardens be renamed, merely observing the irony of its name and new condition.)
And yes, gentlemen and ladies, we have a gondola to divert to a better location, that is Goat Ridge. So let's get on that.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 22, 2012 - 02:28am PT
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Or maybe it's the e]asiest route on the Apron.... (quick, what's it called?
The Groove? climbed it... once, and that's a good story...
The Groove wins! I'm surprised it's been done in modern time. That was my son's first roped lead, at age 12 or 13.
Tami, I don't think the hike up to Broadway really rates as a route, but no matter.... works for you!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 22, 2012 - 02:31am PT
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Tami, there is no tape on that POS conduit because I was hoping someone would steal it! I only rapped on conduit once, the last of five 160' raps off Takkakaw, and it was so scarey we used three pieces.
Prior to tape we used to mark our gear with paint. One time Baldwin came back from Yos with black electrician tape on his gear, and told us that everyone in the Valley used different coloured combinations of tape. Coloured tape was not readily available in Canada, so we bought some the next time we were in Seattle--REI. Big Jim got red, Tony Coussins chose either blue or green, and I took yellow. Being the first person in Canada to mark my gear with yellow tape, I feel no compunction in picking up anything marked in yellow, as it must be mine. So watch out. Anything look familiar?
Anyone got any good conduit stories? [Make that horror stories.] Malemute prolly has several!!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 22, 2012 - 02:44am PT
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I took yellow. Being the first person in Canada to mark my gear with yellow tape, I feel no compunction in picking up anything marked in yellow, as it must be mine.
An Olde Marlboroughian indulging in kleptomania? What is the world coming to? Well, at least I know now where all my yellow-marked gear went.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 22, 2012 - 12:50pm PT
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+1 for south arete, better than calculus IMO. There is a barley anchor above the roof on the right. I did not see it the first time i did it either, i noticed it on the second pass when i was alone so it was to be no help then either. Wide section is only about 20 feet or so & not too bad, biggest jugs ever thru the crux bulge. Some great hand jams on that climb, very enjoyable. More ppl should do it.
@thekidcormier liquid gold is great! and clean! No less than 5* I heard Boyd cleaned it & did the FFA a few yrs back. The long 5.10 cracks at the top are one of the better pitches of the grade in Squam, bring lots of gear if u want to link it into a 70m pitch. As well when we did this climb we had heard it was all natural anchors. We ended up setting a gear belay on every pitch as there were great natural stances. However on every pitch, after the anchor was built. One of us would always notice a notorious barley station nearby!!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 22, 2012 - 07:32pm PT
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Ryan; nice i'll have to get on it when it dries up! have you done the right variation on the final upitch? it looks pretty full on up there!
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Mar 23, 2012 - 12:20am PT
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OK here it is, Ivan and the tree.
A bit of preamble. You have to remember that Ivan came from a very private ,Scandinavian family with a strong work ethic. He worked as a tree faller in the closed culture of the 1970/80’s Squamish logging industry, where climbers were viewed as curiosities and the Chief was still just Crown Land and logging was king.
If it sounds like I’am preparing an excuse, dam right!
Anyways, he was one strong bugger and quickly improved, to the point that, one early spring, we decided to climb Apron Strings. I froze my a ass on the first pitch, and grumbled the whole way, while he commented that , you couldn’t even see the route from the trail with that big old tree near the base, hiding the route.
A couple of rainy days latter , Ivan proudly tells me, he cut down this massive tree and now you can finally see the route from the trail, and it isn’t covered in shade all day! WTF ! Well the sh#t hit the fan, some climbers said he needed to be ostracized from the community, the climbing community was in outrage. Ivan couldn’t figure out what the big deal was? The turmoil finally died down, and after a bit of examination, the tree was rotten to the core and would have probably fallen in the next big storm.
Ivan felt pretty bad about the whole situation after seeing it from a different perspective. In an attempt to make him fell better, I said “ It’s not like you cut down a 250 year old tree”. His response “ nah it couldn’t have been more than 150 years”
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 23, 2012 - 01:52am PT
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Funny story
Speaking of chopping trees to let the light in have you been up to funorama recently since hevy dutys crag renewal? Its so rad up there, magical even!
Any story behind the name?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 23, 2012 - 04:31am PT
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That Ivan guy sounds awesome! Hilarious story! Does the route "Horrors of Ivan" have anything to do with him?
Kidcormier, Luke? i'm not sure what the right variation to liquid gold is? We did the long, twin cracks that go right up the middle of the largest bullet. So good! The other routes that got (re)cleaned in the bulletheads recently are very worthwhile as well. There is so much new climbing at Squamish right now: multi pitch, bouldering, sport climbing, and of course the seemingly endless smoke bluffs??
Did i mention bouldering? Am i the first one to mention bouldering on this thread? Does anyone like bouldering here? When was the first bouldering in Squamish? I like bouldering in Squamish a lot, some of the best in the world. You can do it in the winter when it's too cold to be on a route. Hopefully the thread police would permit bouldering discussion & photos for any inclined to participate?? I would like to hear what people who were here in the earlier days knew about it or if it was even on the radar?
Bouldering a few weeks ago in the smoke bluffs, it is about to snow.
Edit: Hahaha Soloing cat crack in cowboy boots! i guess that was bouldering BITD
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 23, 2012 - 10:34am PT
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Correct me if Im wrong but I believe boldering is a phenomenon occurring amongst men ages 15-30, particularly in the climbing subculture,trying to out-do one another in terms of boldness.
"I solod Corn flakes while drinking a beer and only slipped twice"
"I zippered out 16 RURPS and factor twod on the belay, and walked to wendys with a broken leg"
"Yea well I Simul climber b-peel with no protection between me and my partner while playing online poker on my cell phone"
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 23, 2012 - 10:35am PT
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Better not get me going on the topic of "exciting" tree removal stories.
You'll all curse the day you invited me...
Like the dead fir (4' diam.) at the top of the ladder on the south summit (backside) trail; that one launched so far we thought it might make the campground.
We were paid by B.C. Parks to remove that snag (just to make it clear we weren't sport-logging).
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 23, 2012 - 10:46am PT
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A page back Mighty intoned:
That's the kind of discussion that will drive away most of the Yankees. They'll be horrified, disgusted, and flabbergasted
Condescension will get you nowhere, mate, especially with the Seattle crowd.
Obscure mossy choss piles miles from nowhere was foie gras du jour to many of us. ;-)
And I believe that the standard was set on the letting of daylight into
the swamp at Castle Rock.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 23, 2012 - 11:27am PT
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I can appreciate this is a Squampton-climbing story site and I won't subject you guys to tall tree tales.
Climbing massive trees with a chainsaw hanging off your gear loop often made rock climbing seem pretty tame. As that was my career, those stories would fill a small book. Back to the rock related stuff...
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 23, 2012 - 11:49am PT
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Hamish F, that's probably a good excuse--8.30 is a bit early to grab a Stella!
On the subject of early, I noticed that yesterday Bruce posted at 4.15am. Were you peeing or checking the ski report?
Anders don't worry about the 'stolen' gear. If someone has a bunch of fancy gear they are expected to climb something worthy with it, so I always give it back. All I need these days is a dozen draws. And a bunch of meds.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 23, 2012 - 12:46pm PT
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Bruce is 50 so that was probably the second or third pee of the night.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 23, 2012 - 12:47pm PT
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Okay here's my little story about doing The Groove. Back in the summer of 99 my good friend Roger and I were looking for a challenge at our level. We read in awe of feats like Sig climbing his big trifectum of The Grand, Freeway, and Northern Lights in one day, or Hamish and Peder doing the Grand five times in a day. This was clearly beyond our capabilities so we looked for alternatives. The "average guy's big day."
Roger had had his sights set on doing The Grand, The Squamish Buttress, and Angel's Crest in a day. I knew that the crux of that is by far the punishment your knees take hammering down the backside trail between routes. I came up with a decent-free objective. My idea entailed climbing every route on the Apron that was under 5.10. This meant Upper and Lower Apron too.
This would have meant about 6500 feet of decending via the normal trail if traditional decent tactics were employed. This did not seem to be an option... So I went up two days before our scheduled assault with a haul bag full of old ropes and fixed rap lines down near St Vitus' Dance, Grandville St. and the lower 2/3 of Banana Peel. (We ran down the Slab Alley decent to access those.)
There were a few obscure old routes we'd never done on the list, so that made for some interesting onsight simul-climbing on the dirtiest routes. These included: The Groove, Jake the Snake, and the two original last pitches of Sickle.
The morning started at 4am, bashing around in the forest looking for the start of The Groove by headlamp. A reconnaissance of this by daylight may have been a smart idea. Eventually we found what we figured must be it, and as dawn broke we tunneled through the bushes and found decrepit old pins under a carpet of moss and mud.
As we worked our way across the Apron to the North, we would simul each route, then re-rack and scamper back to our fixed lines and zip back to the base of the next one. At about 5:45 a young couple determined to beat the crowds showed up at the base of Diedre. They were certainly surprised to see us, even more so when they discovered we'd climbed the apron two and a half times by then. We chatted a bit, and they warned us that they were going to be quite slow. We decided that it would be best to tick off Diedre before they were on it, then carry on with the rest of our list. In the ensuing couple of hours, we chatted with them across the slabs as we lapped them five times. They seemed to think it was hilarious.
Once the South and Upper Apron were done, we ticked Snake along with it's old rarely-done alternate finish Jake the Snake, then over to Memorial Crack. From there it was easy to access our lines on the North Apron, and begin all of the cracks that make up that area. There were lots of people by that time, so we just worked around everyone else. At about 9pm we staggered back to the car to grab a bit of water, drop the rack, and head over for the final route, The Bottom Line. 20 min later we were back to the car, high fived, and headed home for a beer.
I came back the next day to strip the fixed lines. We felt quite proud about having achieved out goal. It was kind of like a poor mans big day of alpine scrambling and it was put to good use later that summer on Mt Sir Donald and in the Bugaboos.
According to the guidebook of the day, we climbed a total of around 78 pitches. In reality we did it in more like 25 pitches of simul-climbing. We had a really fun time, and I cherish the memory fondly. It looks like we may have to have another go at it one day since the addition of Over the Rainbow, Calculus Direct, and Jeremy's new Lower Apron route Rambles.
Anyone feel like doing a calf workout from hell?
Kris
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 23, 2012 - 12:53pm PT
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Awesome Story!
I'd bee down for a mission like that, sounds like a blast
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 23, 2012 - 01:06pm PT
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Holy Hannah; that is a tonne of climbing. Awesome effort.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 23, 2012 - 01:22pm PT
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Amazing day, for sure! Congrats.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 23, 2012 - 01:37pm PT
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I"m attempting to tell a story about trying to keep up with Peter (Croft) in the bugs. Unfortunately it's too far back to figure out which year that was.
Maybe Tami could help me out with the year, as she had her little mtn. book full of rats climbing rocks on the go in those days. ?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 23, 2012 - 02:12pm PT
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Nice one Jim, that's why you make the big bucks.
Seems around that 3o year mark where the dates are a little fuzzy.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 23, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
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Luke: Correct me if Im wrong but I believe boldering is a phenomenon occurring amongst men ages 15-30, particularly in the climbing subculture,trying to out-do one another in terms of boldness.
"I solod Corn flakes while drinking a beer and only slipped twice"
"I zippered out 16 RURPS and factor twod on the belay, and walked to wendys with a broken leg"
"Yea well I Simul climber b-peel with no protection between me and my partner while playing online poker on my cell phone"
I suppose that next you'll be telling us that climbers behave like a bunch of adolescent males, and shouldn't drink beer. But as my friends know, I inhabit a cell-phone free zone. Hee hee.
Kris: Good story about your multi-climb on the Apron. I remember seeing you the night before, as you got set up. What was the hardest pitch you climbed that day? (So as not to disappoint Luke, I've never done more than five (?) routes on the Apron in a day, although solo, and hiking down. Taking my medicine like a man. Nothing very difficult, of course.)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 23, 2012 - 05:50pm PT
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so thats what a boldering contest is eh...
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 23, 2012 - 06:47pm PT
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I'm quite sure we were ahead of them, Tami. We never saw them so we must've been ahead.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 23, 2012 - 07:44pm PT
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I forget the name of the shift foreman but he too was enshrined in a route name.
I believe that would be Mr Crabbe
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 23, 2012 - 08:05pm PT
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Summer of '83; I finished grade 12 and instead of attending any "grad" ceremonies, I kept on with my continuing-education...Rock 101.
B.C. was in the midst of a high pressure weather pattern so a Bugaboo trip was at the top of the list. Peter had just returned from a climbing trip to England and was on a roll. He suggested we hike over to the Howsers and try to solo the Becky-Chounard. It seemed a little out there to me, as neither of us had ever been over there and the route had a reputation for being pretty long. I mean, it even had an overnight ledge on it. We looked at the topo and it all seemed quite reasonable. Loads of cracks, lots of corners; all fairly moderate. We hadn't heard of anyone soloing it and there was a face climbing traverse which sounded a bit tricky.
Oh well, how could I pass up this opportunity? Peter was 7 years older and about that many grades better climber than I. I felt extremely fortunate to have this chance and I really doubt I would've been hiking over there by myself.
Climbing well meant not working much, which translated into very limited resources. As a result I was still climbing in Peter's old, blown out e.b.s. Sometimes, for the tougher climbs, I'd wear them on the opposite feet, so my inside edge was Peter's old outside edge. Less holes on that side. This felt a bit strange, with the curve and all, so often, if the climbing was moderate, I'd just wear them normally. We were going mountain-rambling so I would wear them normal-style. Big mistake.
We left the cabin quite early, just to give us lots of time. It was probably around 4 o'clock. Bruce and Dave were planning on the same route that day but for some reason we left ahead of them. I think Bruce's breakfast wasn't sitting very well at that wee hour of the day.
I'd also borrowed Peter's sister's mountain boots and boy, were they ever big, serious boots. Great for kicking steps up the col but terrible for clipping on the chalkbag sling.We packed our runners for the final drop down to the base of the route.
We stopped at the Pigeon Howser col and stashed everything we could. There were a few double rope rapells off the summit so we each had a 9 mil rope coiled on our backs, mountaineer-style. I'm pretty sure we did the classic rapell technique as we didn't have any harnesses or gear.
We skiid down a pretty long slope in our nikes and then scrambled up some talus to the start of the route. Wow, I looked up and that route looked long; and it got a bit steeper at about half height. Unreal, granite heaven.
The first couple hundred feet were pretty easy and we were cruising along quite nicely. Either my speed was starting to wain, or Superman, ahead of me, was just getting warmed up. Whatever the case, Peter was soon up, up, and away, completely out of sight and way too far above me for any communication. That didn't bother me too much. The route finding had been easy and I was loving all these five star cracks.
Before too long I arrived at that big bivy ledge and soaked up some exposure for a minute or two. Probably just half a minute, really.
Absolutely no sign of the seasoned veteran anywhere, just me and myself standing on that ledge in the middle of nowhere. I looked up and to the left a touch and there was a beautiful crack. It looked steep and pretty real, but not too bad, I thought. I jammed my way up that crack for fifty or sixty feet and it seemed to be getting tougher as I went. Eventually it was thinning down to finger size and the warning bells started sounding in my head. This didn't seem to be what I'd read on the topo the night before and I was getting a little stressed. Suddenly the crack peterred out and at that point I could just see Peter, about half a pitch over to the right, and about a half pitch above me.
I yelled over to him and all I got back was something about a wet chimney with some ice or something. I was such a hack at route finding. Unbelievable, now I had to downclimb this entire crack and that was an undertaking in itself. By the time I'm back down on the bivy ledge, Peter was so far above me there wasn't going to be any more interaction at all. Oh well, bright side was I had the right crack now.
Several hundred feet later I'm perched in a corner, looking out left at this face traverse we'd read about on the topo. It didn't look like a givaway and it was seeming more exposed by the minute. The climbing looked edgy and my blown out shoes were looking like a terrible choice, especially the way I was wearing them, with lots of skin poking through.
It was only fifteen or twenty feet of traversing but it was killing me, or at least trying to. I climbed out and back into the safety of the corner, making a little more progress each time. The exposure out there was massive and that glacier a thousand feet below was pulling on me like a powerfull magnet. I went back and fourth about five times in all and eventually figured out how to do all the moves. Oh man, it felt SO good to grab that edge of the arete.
I pull around the other side of the arete and there's Peter, crouched on a little stance, saying a few more prayers for me. He knew exactly the epic I was going to be experiencing, due to my (his) shoes, and he'd been there for quite awhile. We hadn't seen each other, really, since the start of the route, and we were overwhelmed with relief. So happy to see my friend, Herculees, we're both still alive and feeling pretty chuffed with our progress.
We stayed closer for the remainder of the route, none of which I remember; must've been much easier ground up to the top. We summitted, uncoiled our ropes, and undertook some painfull rapelling. I recall the last rap ended us on a little perch above a huge bergshrund. We pulled the ropes and had to do a big leap, out and over the gaping slot, onto the snowslope. We changed into our runners and trudged through the snow to find our cache.
I hadn't quite recovered from my face-climbing epic and the idea of more climbing couldn't have been further from my mind. Peter informs me he feels great and is keen for more action. I felt terrible but had to turn him down. I was happy to be velcroed to the earth for the remainder of the day.
I hiked back to the cabin and got there well before noon, I think. The fittest guy on the planet went on to solo every other peak in the Bugs that day. He got in after dinner. The guy was unstoppable and I was very fortunate to have shared one route with him that day. And it was a Beauty.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 23, 2012 - 08:07pm PT
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Oh boy, now that I see that on the full screen, it looks quite long.
Hope it's not too painfull. :)
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 23, 2012 - 08:24pm PT
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Awesome Hamish!!!!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 23, 2012 - 08:31pm PT
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Thanks for the story Hamish [F]. It was good to read your side of the story. PC had a one and a half page article in the 1984 CAJ, which I read years ago, and will now read again. The 1984 CAJ is a 'veritable treasure trove' of items recently referred to on this thread:
1. PC's article on soloing the BC and everything else in sight.
2. 2 sketches by Tami in above article.
3. 3 photos of The Word's Toughest Milkman. 3 photos, 5.8, Murrin Park, 1984??????? That was newsworthy?
4. 2 photos of Horrors of Ivan, S4 10c.
5. There is also a full page photo of Washington Bullets, S3 10c Murrin Park.
The Squamish article says that the S1,2,3 etc system refers to Squamish 1,2,3 etc, and is/was apparently similar to the totally incomprehensible [at least to me. I almost get it, but it just slips away] E system used in Britain. Can we get an explanation of the who, what, why and when of this really bad and short lived idea? We know the 'where'= Squamish. Tami? Hamish F?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 23, 2012 - 09:00pm PT
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Thanks, Hamish - a good story!
The "S" grades came from a booklet published in 1984, called "Squamish: The New Freeclimbs". With a photo of PC on Fungus Razor on the cover. Fairly simple design - typed, copied, stapled. The S grades never caught on, though. The booklet was superceded by Jim Campbell's first comprehensive guide soon after.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 23, 2012 - 09:06pm PT
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Thank goodness Kevin's "S" grade system never caught on. (And a better guide was published...) The back cover also sported a great photo of Amy B. I forget what route she was on.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 24, 2012 - 12:21am PT
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Yup, east ridge of bugaboo as well; otherwise he would've been back long before dinner.
And yes, he writes quite a bit and is very good at it.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Mar 24, 2012 - 01:14am PT
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A great Knight's tale, thanks for sharing.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 24, 2012 - 10:59am PT
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Bumb for onSite soloing
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 24, 2012 - 11:36am PT
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I've got a question for anders, but bmacd might have an answer too.
Does an unhappy hooker offer any protection?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 24, 2012 - 11:39am PT
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Or should I say how does one protect them selves when dealing with an unhappy hooker
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Mar 24, 2012 - 11:50am PT
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OK, so BK made reference to my logging days and skills as a grapple yarder operator.
While driving up to the Tricouni trailhead a couple years ago, Ms. Chief and I came upon my old friend, the Madill 122 Swing Interlock Grapple Yarder.
I ran this machine in 88-89 when it was brand new and the most state of the art piece of machinery on the coast.
80 tons of yarding technology on a D8 hydraulic chassis capable of pulling a 25 ton log from 1000 feet away at up to 30 miles an hour.
In terms of operating challenges, about as close to rotary aviation as you could get. Like a giant real life video game with mangled valleys, well financed consumption (and some great climbing trips) the end result.
During the filming of the Edge we used the same type of machine to control the flight of a 3000 lb. aircraft on tandem 1500' highlines on Spray Lake above Canmore. Biggest descender drop I've ever done.
The Wee Beastie (with Big Ugly my Dodge truck for reference)
Yours truly standing on the tweasers, ironically clad in a perfectly matching Madill blue shirt.
The Flight Deck
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 24, 2012 - 12:00pm PT
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That thing is beast! must have been fun times playing with that thing, what movie we're you guys making?
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Mar 24, 2012 - 12:05pm PT
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What movie?
Forests Forever of course!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 24, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
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oops I got mixed up.. Bruce told a story about shooting a movie and he mentioned you NOT being there. DOH
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 24, 2012 - 12:53pm PT
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That bugs story was amazing Hamish F, thanks for the insight. My fingertips were definitely perspiring after that. What a day that would have been!
I had a feeling that nobody around here was into bouldering, that's ok I can talk about real climbing all day but i'm telling you guys that you are missing out!!
Tami thanks for the background on the Milkman's wall!
I have another Query about the early days of climbing in Squamish for anyone who may know; I know that Fist by the brunser was the first 5.10 in Squamish & that sentry box was the first 5.12, but what was the first 5.11 done & by whom? As well who did the first 5.13? was it the shadow?? Thanks!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 24, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
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That's the goal, sweaty fingertips in less than 1000 words.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 24, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
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great success on that Hamish, i'm sure yours probably started sweating too when you wrote that! I'm gonna head to pet wall right now & try to set myself up with some first-hand fingertip perspiration! Enjoy the sun this weekend everyone!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Mar 24, 2012 - 01:12pm PT
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Here's a PC/Milkman's Wall bouldering story.
I'm "bouldering" (3rd classing) at Murrin one day and see some guy up at the Milkman's Wall and do my Genesis access up to the wall for a look.
It's Peter and he's worked out this rig where he climbs Mr. O'Clock to Mr. Crabbe to Horrors to the summit, down climbs Horrors to just off the deck and traverses back left to the start of Mr. O'Clock and repeats without touching the ground. At least ten times!
I had Horrors dialed to the alcove and used to climb up and down to there all the time. I'd ventured out onto the headwall a number of times but just couldn't feel solid finishing it.
Inspired once again by the great Pedro Croftini, I came up with my own wimpy version which I dubbed "The Milk Toaster".
Start up Exodus, downclimb Mr. O'Clock, traverse across the base to Horrors and climb to the alcove, shake out then reverse the whole rig to the start of Exodus. Shake out, repeat. Best effort seven laps, awesome workout.
Entertaining variation; El Indio to Mr. Crabbe to the alcove then down Horrors, back track and repeat.
For the record, that's what we called bouldering back then.
No pads, no pad armies, just shorts, shoes, chalk bag and bong hits.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 24, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
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For the record, that's what we called bouldering back then.
That's what i figured! Amazing!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Mar 24, 2012 - 01:40pm PT
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Oh very well Tami!
I'm guilty of oversimplifying things.
We did have some bouldering back then, but nothing like Camp 4 or the pictures in John Gill's Master of Stone.
How about Buns Up and Weasels Rip My Flesh?!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 25, 2012 - 11:34am PT
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Bk you're acting more and more like norwiegen every day!
, just shorts, shoes, chalk bag and bong hits.
Speaking of bong hits, I got on Overly Hanging Out yesterday and man was glad to hit that bong after the overlap! What a gem of a line! Thanks for the story of the FA Tami when I first asked about it.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 25, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
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Where were you all yesterday???? We climbed the Grand in the glorious sunshine all by ourselves yesterday afternoon! top three pitches were so warm a tee shirt was too hot. We could hear hundreds of boulderers grunting in the cool shady dampness of the woods below, but only saw one party come up to Exasperator below us. Here's hopeing for a repeat of that weather today!
K
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Mar 25, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
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I was at Grouse yesterday..... Big competition over the past two days. Gorgeous spring conditions.
This is from a couple weeks ago.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 25, 2012 - 01:59pm PT
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Bruce, Buns up & squealing is the name of a roof crack boulder problem on the side of the old highway bed, in the bouldering guide it says that it was put up by Randy atkinson in 78' -2nd oldest problem recorded in there so pretty relevant to Squamish i would think. The oldest recorded problem is the baldwin problem up by the base done in 61', he knew what was up.
Hey Chief what is weasels rip my flesh?
Saw you guys up on the grand yesterday Kris, looked real nice for sure, I was t shirt in the sun @ pet wall getting bouted on animal, that thing is tricky!
So nobody knows the first 5.11 or the first 5.13 in Squam? Was perspective maybe the first 5.11?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 25, 2012 - 03:59pm PT
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Seems the more I embarass myself, the more people get a good laugh out of my stories. And if you can't laugh, what's the point?
Summer of 78 or 79 and I've somehow talked my buddy, Ian, into coming with me to Squamish for some adventures in rock climbing. Or at least trying to rock climb. We were coming from Victoria, and when you're 13 or 14, that was a journey.
I think we'd climbed Banana Peel and Diedre and we felt ready for the next level. Oh yah, we were rolling. We chose Snake as the next obvious challenge and somehow we both made it through the unprotected traverse without a major catastrophe. I do recall being pretty scared out there. We made it up another pitch or so and then either the climbing got too tough for us or it started to rain. I can't remember which.
We had to rapell off with one rope and hardly any gear. Ian didn't own any gear whatsoever and I had spent a couple of years building up my meager collection... a biner at a time. In fact, years later I learned I was the brunt of many jokes at the outdoor store in downtown Victoria. The staff would chuckle when this little kid would come in and buy one carabiner. They were around three bucks at the time.
We start rapelling down Snake and we're using the biner-brake system. I made it down to some tree-covered ledge and managed not to lose my biners when I pulled the ropes through them. I had spoken to Ian about not letting the biners drop when getting the rapell rope separated from them but I guess he had a lot on his mind, what with starting grade 8 or 9 the following month. He gets down to the ledge, beside me, pulls the rope through, and clank-clank-clink, there go two of my prize biners. As I only had 15 or 20, this was a noticeable percentage of my collection. We were a little bummed out, backing off, losing gear.
Tails between our legs, we hike back to the cave (grand-wall trailhead) because that's home for a week or two. The day isn't done yet, however, and I'm psyched for a mid-air rapell. Out in our front yard stood a massive steel tower just asking to be climbed and rapelled off.
That's me, smart as a whip. I'll lead up to the top, bring up Ian, and we can both do an awesome mid-air rapell back down to the ground. Hmmm, there are some power lines up there, we better make sure not to touch those, wouldn't want to get a shock.
We uncoil our rope, I take some slings and my recently wounded biner supply and start climbing the galvanized steel monolith. This things a piece of cake compared to Snake so I'm cruising right up there. Then at about half height the angle got a lot steeper but it still wasn't too tough. Wow, look at me, I'll be at the top in no time flat.
Suddenly I start feeling strangely attached to the steel structure. The electricity is coming in through my hands and leaving out my feet! Oh My God, this feels horrendous. I'm freaking out up there, stuck to the steel, my hands aren't working all that well, and I've got to get out of there, now. Somehow I managed to tie a sling around the steel and I had my rope passing through it, ready for the speed lower.
Used up a couple of lives there, one because I was too cheap to leave a carabiner and risked the rope burning through the webbing. And the other for somehow escaping being electrocuted.
That sling was visible for about thirty years. Every year I'd hike up onto that little hill to watch the climbers on the chief, look up at my sling, and shake my head. B.C. Hydro replaced that tower with a wood pole a few years ago and I imagine some riggers got a good laugh when they saw my ancient sling way up there, next to the 500,000 mega-watt hi-voltage lines. I tried to stick to rocks after that. Well, maybe a few trees along the way.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 25, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
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More great tales! I love it! Isn't it amazing some of the things we get away with when we're young and ignorant? I'm often surprised I lived past my teenage years...
Back to Hanging Gardens. I finished it today and installed the anchors. All the fixed lines are down and it's ready for your enjoyment. Remember if you're looking at the McLane guide, the route is reversed with it's neighbor Overhanging Gardens.
The first pitch is completely new. It just looked alot better and more direct than the original start which diagonaled in from 30m to the right. It's very easy to find. As you walk across the base of the Papoose, It's the first clean line you get to on the left. The detritus of route excavation will be quite visable on the ground. The route is comprised of predominantly 5.8 to 5.9 crack climbing, interspersed with short, technical face climbing cruxes.
p1. Follow diagonal finger cracks left across the wall until you can step to a higher ledge system, then exit right on thin face moves past a bolt. Belay on the right end of the large ledge below the corner. 30m, 5.10b
p2. Up the left facing corner, stepping left past a bolt into another shallow corner. Belay at the base of a V groove that angles to the right. 28m, 5.10c
p3. Up the groove, then back left in an awkward corner protected by a single bolt at the beginning. Above this the angle and difficulty ease considerably. Trend generally straight up past enjoyable face climbing to the top. 30m, 5.10b
To decend, either walk into the forest on the left and down the trail, or do three raps with a single 60m rope. There are slings/ cords on the anchors right now. They'll be replaced with chains next week sometime.
Enjoy!
Kris
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Mar 26, 2012 - 12:21am PT
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A good friend of mine from childhood times, Barry Cox, on Saltspring island, died when he was about grade 5 or 6, climbing on steel hydro power pylons. Horrific stuff ...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 26, 2012 - 01:08am PT
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Hmm, Hamish's story is uncannily parallel to one that I could tell, from six or seven years earlier.
Lovely day at Squamish today, eh?
This may be the unfortunately-named and therefore perhaps unlamented "Buns Up" climb. Randy figuring it out. 1978.
I need to think about the first 'real' 5.11 at Squamish - either by standards then, or now. The first 5.10d 'climb' was probably Bob Woodsworth's Slab Alley variation, in 1964 or 1965. Although it's only a few m of slab. I'm not sure when the earlier version of Clean Crack was first done - 1973, maybe. (Climb to the pod, then a few m, then grab a nice cedar.) It was hard 5.10, anyway. Brunser Overhang and Perspective, both in 1975, were also hard 5.10. Then Nic Taylor did the left side of the Pillar in September 1975, and it's given 'easy' 5.12.
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c-plus
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC, Canada
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Mar 26, 2012 - 01:30am PT
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Thanks Kris! Can't wait to get on it!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Mar 26, 2012 - 01:50am PT
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I'm not convinced Randy did the FA on Buns Up.
There's nothing unfortunate about the name and it was inspired by the fact we inverted for a heel hook at the lip in order to reach past the flare for a funky hand jam and were listening to a lot of Zappa at the time, and I mean a lot.
Daryl and I could quote all of Dynamo Hum verbatim.
Ditto for Nanook Rubs It and Slime From the Video.
Buns Up started from the obvious hand jam in Mighty's awesome archival contribution (Randy's left foot is wedged in it).
Weasels Ripped My Flesh (an earlier Zappa effort) was the name we gave the extended sit start to Buns Up as the first couple jams were pretty raspy.
Just sayin'.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 26, 2012 - 11:54am PT
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Another Great story Hamish, and a great sounding new route Mr Wild!
Trundle Babe dropped a big rock of the Malamute the other day;[Click to View YouTube Video]
More pics athttp://thekidcormier.blogspot.com
Does anyone wanna get on Kris new route with me right now?
Edit: I Was asking earlier about "The Unhappy Hooker" with no reply from anders, but after a closer inspection I see that you, Scrubber, had a hand in freeing the 2nd pitch, have you guys looked into freeing the first pitch? Is there any pro on the first pitch to protect to the hooking?
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 26, 2012 - 04:47pm PT
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I never even looked at the first pitch. It seemed so blank that I dismissed it without giving it a chance at all. I was involved in the second pitch effort where it leaves Quagmire Crack. A friend of mine Mark, has tried to clean it and send it, but he didn't dig the crack out deeply enough. We went back together and dug it out to about 6" for lovely jamming.
After it cleaned up through a couple of rains, we went back with Andrew B. to send it. He had done the lower parallel crack several weeks earlier, and suggested to Mark that he clean up the higher one and free it. I led it first, but kept falling at the little two move face crux at the top. Eventually I got it from the no hands stance at the top of the crack, but never bothered to lower back to the station and do it in it's entirety. I think Andrew sent it a day or two later "by fair means" :)
K
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 27, 2012 - 02:21am PT
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Awesome buns up photo! Thanks for the info on that one guys. As well the stories & historical info coming out here from everyone is pretty much the best thing ever & is keeping the psyche for climbing high, even with the random weather.
Was so fun to climb in Squamish the past few days, i am trashed.
Re: Malamute.
Most climbs at the Malamute may just have some of the best rock anywhere.
Overly hanging out is awesome, nice work Kidcormier.
I was wondering about another climb down there next to OHO called Strawline, anyone here done that one or happen to have a story about it??
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 27, 2012 - 02:32am PT
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Never done Strawline, but Survival of the Flatus over there is fantastic.
K
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 27, 2012 - 02:35am PT
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"The oldest recorded problem is the Baldwin problem up by the base, done in '61"
Hey RyanD
I am puzzled by this claim.
.....Who recorded it?
.....Where was it recorded?
.....When was it recorded?
Just curious, H.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2012 - 03:14am PT
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Awesome stories indeed everyone.. Too much going on lately to comment on everything... I got out with my buddy PY yesterday and we went for a jaunt on the Apron and today thanks to the energy, optimism and sheer pluck of "The Kid" we hit up the Papoose.
Luke at the top of what climb?
After things started to dry up a bit and we hit up Mushroom.
Kyle on Mushroom 5.9
Luke generously gave up his chance at a onsight so he could take this lovely photo of me.
Just noticed you can see Yula "The Kid's" dog in the upper right corner :)
Hamish F- Good thing you were strong enough to hold it together on that tower! Crazy.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 27, 2012 - 03:48am PT
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My info is from the Squamish Bouldering guide by Marc Bourdon, not sure on the who's & how's so unfortunately i can't claim it as my claim. The Baldwin Problem i speak of is on a big pyramid shaped block about 60-70? yds from the base & about 50 yds left of Apron strings, it's actually pretty fun, tall too, climbing a nice arete/featured slab on the south side. Maybe 5.9 & a pretty obvious line so wouldn't be a huge surprise if it was in fact climbed 50 years ago- Unless of course you are going to lay claim to it Hamie!!
Kris I'll have to check out the flatus sometime. saw hanging gardens from the highway today on the way south, looks pretty shiny! Have to get on it soon, thanks!
Yep Big Mike & Luke, i'm sure there's some common friends, U guys know Henkel? That is how i met PY. We'll see you out there soon!
Another shot of the climb that started this thread.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 27, 2012 - 12:57pm PT
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Sick Shot Ryan, have you done any of the crack problems up by funorama? or the one on the loop trail at the climbers left corner of the split beaver?
At the top of a climb? my footwear indicates im still on the approach..
Bump for Big MIke and I's rainy day adventure!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 27, 2012 - 10:02pm PT
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Jim Baldwin's "A Climber's Guide to the Squamish Chief Area" (1963/64) has the following, on its last page:
Boulder Problems in the Squamish Area
There are many interesting boulder problems in Murrin Park as well as a 70 ft cliff on the NW short of Browning Lake called the Sugar Loaf, which is a favorite practise area. There are also many good problems to be found among the boulders at the base of the W wall of the Chief massif. The cliffs on the E side of the town of Squamish also make excellent practise grounds.
Big Jim says that Baldwin, and perhaps others, climbed on what is now called the Black Dyke boulder at about that time. Perhaps Hamie and Tricouni can elucidate as to what did or didn't happen, although the excerpt is rather fascinating - bouldering, and climbing somewhere in what came to be called the Little Smoke Bluffs, in 1963? We may never know the details, but it does make you wonder.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 27, 2012 - 11:06pm PT
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...and today thanks to the energy, optimism and sheer pluck of "The Kid" we hit up the Papoose.
Luke at the top of what climb?
Hey, hey, hey!!! That would be the last pitch of the MEGA-CLASSIC Papoose route Hanging Gardens (formerly of Babylon). Even I didn't recognize it at first. How did it get soooooo clean?????
Whadda' ya think?
K
PS. You do realize that there are probably less than ten people that have climbed that route since you were born? Don't you feel lucky?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 27, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
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Ryan, thanks for the info. It is probably more likely that the problem is named as a tribute to Jim B, rather than saying that he made the FA. But we will never know now. It's always good to have some myths, legends and tall tales. They all add to the tapestry. I think it's called faction.
It's not widely known, but Jim B had an extra finger on his right hand. This gave him a little extra power to swing his hammer on the big walls, and also gave him a little extra surface area/friction for those slab climbs like Diedre and Slab Alley.
On the topic of gardens, hanging and otherwise, a friend named a new route "The Reluctant Gardener" last year. I think it is an orginal name, and pretty funny.
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Russ S.
climber
was Seattle, now Spokane
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Mar 28, 2012 - 12:21am PT
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 28, 2012 - 02:27am PT
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Wooooahh that is an awesome photo Russ S!!! That thing looks badass too! I never really looked at it when doing OHO & wow, what a cool position! Thanks for posting that. Definitely gotta check that one out this summer.
Yo Luke, thanks man. i've climbed a few of the crack boulders in the bluffs, as well as bouldered a few of the cracks. the photo i posted a few pages back-roaches corner is up there by call it a day in front of cockburns & is awesome. On another note I was walking by respiration rock a few weeks back & it's looking pretty nice too! Are you going to scrub the far left side of the overhang as well? If you haven't already. Looks like there could be a little something up the left side of the bulge, may need a bolt tho!
The excerpt from the old guidebook is interesting indeed Mighty Hiker, it's cool to know that they were aware of "bouldering" in the not so modern sense in the 60's at Squamish & the smoke bluffs. I guess that out of Jim Baldwin & others who were active at Squamish in that time some would have already been to Yosemite & probably bouldered there?
Hamie, faction or not. Nowadays it is written as scripture.
They only gave it 1* out of 5, I thought it was 3* myself! gets a ghost too.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 28, 2012 - 10:25am PT
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Looks like there could be a little something up the left side of the bulge, may need a bolt tho!
Yea I'm gonna clean the entire bluff! We'll put a bolt in there for ya and you can ground up it.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 28, 2012 - 11:06am PT
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We'll put a bolt in there for ya and you can ground up it? Oxymoron.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 28, 2012 - 11:29am PT
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I guess that out of Jim Baldwin & others who were active at Squamish in that time some would have already been to Yosemite & probably bouldered there?
Jim Baldwin, in 1962 - 64, and the Hamie, in 1964 and 1965, were probably the first Squamish climbers to spend significant time in Yosemite, in both cases quite a lot. No doubt it exposed them to other influences, and opened their eyes. Jim may not have done a lot of climbing at Squamish after 1962, but had had a hand in about half the routes to that time. We may never know exactly what bouldering, or what climbing in the Bluffs, he got up to.
Carrying on in Hamish's vein, rapbolting can perhaps be described as a way of grinding (or grounding) up climbs.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 28, 2012 - 11:52am PT
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We'll put a bolt in there for ya and you can ground up it? Oxymoron.
I mean he can on site it.. or try too, it looks f*#king HARD
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 28, 2012 - 12:09pm PT
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O.K., fair enough. I have to keep reminding myself how much more difficult the climbs are these days, as compared to the last century.
Gotta go let my velociraptor out for a walk...
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 28, 2012 - 01:37pm PT
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Thanks for sharing that with us TAMI! I'm sure big mike will be stoked, seeing as a few days after your presentation he calls me to say;
'Hamish Gets the Milk' isnt even in any of those books Tami sold us, what a rip off, these are going straight into to the bird cage
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Mar 28, 2012 - 01:48pm PT
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Bahaha thanks Tami!
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Mar 28, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
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RIP Andy Burnham. A very good man ....
Climbed with Cosmic Cragsman here the other day, another very good man. My first "real" trad leading in 15 years. The Cosmic rack weighed about 40 pounds, doubles on every cam including the largest sizes available. I also saved and placed the kitchen sink for the belay. Cosmics biners are all original Chouinards, and could go straight in to a museum tomorrow.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 28, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
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Hey there, say, BMACD...
Was it you who tipped the RCMP off that we were up at the papoose
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 28, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
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What's the fastest time on Bellygood? For a human that is.
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Mar 28, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
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^^ depends who and what you are doing ^^
Kiddo - surrender now, before the new laws are passed
Meanwhile in Las Vegas ..... ;-)
The lights are so bright I gotta wear shades
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 28, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
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I realize there are different divisions and weight categories - just curious in general.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 28, 2012 - 05:05pm PT
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Reilly; not sure what the time to belly good is, but Honald and Mason Earle did a 59minute lap up to the top of the roman chimneys, shaving something like 8 or 9 minutes of the old top speed. Pretty Damn impressive!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2012 - 05:07pm PT
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Ryan D-
Dave?
Dave Henkle on Doctors Wall, Skaha. Not sure which route, guesses?
Dave was our first real link to the climbing community. He climbed with Gary Mcfarlane and his friends. Dave showed us a lot of good tricks we didn't know, and helped us refine our techniques.
He also taught me a lot about trad leading just by watching him climb. He would rest on gear if he absolutley needed to or downclimb back to his gear rather than risk a big fall. He would get us on stuff that was above our heads, but we would allways figure it out..
All the Jim Baldwin talk the other day reminded me of this photo I took on Sunday.
I love memorial ledge. It's such a cool place to hang out, have some lunch, and soak up the Sun and the atmosphere.
I took this one for Big Jim to tide him over till we get him up there.
We took some pictures of Hanging Gardens the other day, but I am witholding most of them for the upcoming mini tr.
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Mar 28, 2012 - 05:12pm PT
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whoaaaa. That story is heavy indeed--tossed out lightly. First, the passion (just the concept of wearing worn out shoes on wrong feet for better edging; yes HF forgot to in this case, reading comp intact), second the titanium balls to follow PC up a climb that size. Third, the bigger titanium balls--and more importantly boundless enthusiasm and optimism--to take a near-shoeless, less able climber up a solo of that magnitude. Wow. Great stuff.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 28, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
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Does that mean you're going to keep us Hanging?
The quote is from Walt Whitman's Leaves of Grass, IIRC. The plaque was placed by the Cacodemon Climbing Club in 1965. Hamie and Tricouni could perhaps say more.
The "EBs on the reverse feet" trick was popular in the early 1980s. I remember Peter earnestly persuading Richard of the merits of the idea, sitting below Xodus and Tourist Delight, in about 1982. Richard seemed to think it was a practical joke, but then it worked for him.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2012 - 05:19pm PT
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Hamish F- Eddie is a velociraptor now? :)
Tami- THANK YOU! I tried so hard to read that one at your show but you went so darn fast! :) I got the jist but I love the little details so it is really nice to be able to read it properly. I would never put your books in my bird's cages, they are much more suitable for my hamsters.
JUST KIDDING they are cherished treasures to be re-read especially Avalanche Poodles. You could do a whole book on that gag.. maybe team up with Avalanche.ca? :)
Scrubber- Heck ya it made me feel special. :) It is so nice to climb a freshly cleaned granite crack with texture vs a polished classic. How many parties climbed it BITD was it popular?
Here is a sneak peak of some nice cracks on Hanging Gardens.
Pitch 1
Pitch 2
Pitch 3
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 28, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
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Anders is gonna set the record straight and hammer out a farkin' fab book on all these guys. Arn't you Anders???
The person/peon formerly known as 'Anders' has entered a witless protection program.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2012 - 05:46pm PT
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+1 Tami though I agree with that statement about shoes on opposite feet. You gotta love climbing to go to those lengths :)
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 28, 2012 - 06:03pm PT
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O.K., I was "less able" but I did make it back to the hut well before lunch. Surely I get a few points for that?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 28, 2012 - 06:11pm PT
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Head Standards, Ramy Securus bindings, double leather lace ups, all second hand. Worked fine for getting started BITGOD.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2012 - 06:57pm PT
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Thank god I'm only size 13 or finding shoes would be a nightmare. Somehow I don't ever see wearing opposite shoes being physically possible.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 28, 2012 - 06:59pm PT
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Try a leader fall on the swami-belt. Oweeeeee. (2"webbing)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2012 - 07:03pm PT
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Nasty.. No thanks :) I'm glad I have my cushy harness. Not nearly as cool as the swami belts though :)
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Mar 28, 2012 - 07:34pm PT
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He climbed with Gary McFarlane and his friends.
friends = me, well one of them
Gary is a one eyed freak that developed the Cal-Check sport area south of Whistler, when he wasn't taking nudie post card photos. Now he's more into developing bike trails in Squamish for Hamish to rip down.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 28, 2012 - 07:47pm PT
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Gary is another massively-giving human who deserves a lifetime of free beer for sculpting such perfect mtn. bike trails around Squamish. Incredable effort!
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Mar 28, 2012 - 08:33pm PT
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sorry bout the "less able," I was just taking HF's own assessment at face value. as for points, he gets all the points for the holey shoes, plus the downclimb from being off-route. hafta say, tho, I have bought into the Croft legend. When I was a younger gumby, I read all the mags, flashes of the twin 13s in YV plus the a-ball did that for me. But, as one Yosemite climber I know said: "The Valley is just training for Squamish."
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 28, 2012 - 08:35pm PT
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Bruce MacD: What did you climb at RR?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 29, 2012 - 02:51am PT
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OMG!!!111
Six hours, and no new posts. I've killed another thread. Sorry 'bout that, Big Mike..........
Quick, Bruce. Tell us about RR.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2012 - 03:52am PT
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Actually hamish f posted a comment about his quick return to the hut alone, initially causing some concern among the boys until he told them that they had finished allready. Then they understood that it was far to early for pc to come home.
He also complimented your pictures, but he seems to have deleted it.
Thanks for those photos. Awesome!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 29, 2012 - 09:59am PT
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You're right, Big Mike. Sometimes I write in, trying to be funny, then I'll read it on the big screen and it sounds like I'm beating my chest.
Easy way to deal with that unacceptable behavoir, just hit the delete button. Gotta love it.
Yes, I love those old photos. Timeless, really.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2012 - 10:50am PT
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Hamish f- I thought it was an excellent human footnote to your story. You must not be so hard on yourself. There are too many others to critizise us, for us to concentrate on ourselves.
Back to what Jim Brennan was saying.. Big Power indeed. The pwl's are waking up bigtime http://grantgunderson.com/blog/?p=132
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Watch your ass people!
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 29, 2012 - 10:55am PT
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Brutal looking wet avalanche ^^^^^ Yikes !!!!
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Boymeetsrock
Trad climber
the east
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Mar 29, 2012 - 11:41am PT
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I don't post here much but read a lot. Just wanted to share that I am LOVING this thread. Great stories and pictures of a land that, for me, is far far away.
Thanks all!!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 29, 2012 - 12:28pm PT
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No problem, I'll try to limit my editing. I've always had a problem with the chest beaters in life and climbing had its fair share of them. This is one of the reasons I like my mountain bike so much.
It used to drive me nuts, listening to some dude schpeel on about some 50 feet of blank granite that he wailed 7 bolts into, spent 2 years working it, and, what-do-you-know, it's 5.14q. Way to go.
Just not my style, that's all.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 29, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
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Hear, hear!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 29, 2012 - 12:59pm PT
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It used to drive me nuts, listening to some dude schpeel on about some 50 feet of blank granite that he wailed 7 bolts into, spent 2 years working it, and, what-do-you-know, it's 5.14q. Way to go.
Followed by some other guy saying it was only 14o, or 14p at the hardest, and accusing the first guy of...
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Mar 29, 2012 - 01:21pm PT
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Hamish- wasn't there something about you helping some other party out with stuck ropes en route up the B/C that day?
It's very possible that I am mixing up stories.
All the same- respect.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 29, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
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Some eerie looking photos Jim! brrr
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 29, 2012 - 04:03pm PT
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Hi Tim. Nice to hear your voice. That becky-chounard story you're talking about occurred a couple years later. We returned for a repeat but got weathered off at around the 40% level.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2012 - 02:58am PT
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Tami- Sorry guess I forgot that part. I do remember you went with Peter c the next day, (would love to hear that tale) so obviously you were there.
Here's a shot of PY on Banana Peel for RyanD and boymeetsrock + all the lurkers. Make yourselves known. Especially if you have pics.
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Mar 30, 2012 - 08:36am PT
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Thanks Hamish- ditto.
Keep the stories rolling!
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Mar 30, 2012 - 03:50pm PT
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this thread is the main reason I'm looking at ST these days. thanks. I keep looking for more.
Anyhow, with all the Yosemitecentricity out there, i.e., what did those Squamish climbers do in the Valley? What about the reverse, what did well-known Valley climbers do in Squamish? (Besides Coz onsighting U wall, and freeing the slab, pretty proud).
Anybody?
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Mar 30, 2012 - 08:23pm PT
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thanks Tami.
I guess these days it's Honnold and few others. Didn't Tommy Calwell and Beth Rodden repeat Coz's FFA? Really too bad about the lack of reverse flow 70s and 80s. Did Squamish climbers go to Index?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 30, 2012 - 09:33pm PT
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... Did Squamish climbers go to Index?
Vancouver climbers started going to Leavenworth in the very early 1960s. We mostly climbed at the Peshastins but also at Castle Rock and, rarely, Snow Creek Wall. I don't think Index was developed until a little later. But the Peshastins and Castle Rock were excellent fun and we met many of the Seattle locals there, including many who (to the best of my knowledge) never climbed at Squamish.
Generally we made 2 trips a year. One was during the November long weekend (called Remembrance Day up here)when conditions on the coast were almost always crappy. It could be chilly east of the Cascades, but weather was almost always good, and there were usually lots of apples around to high-grade. The spring trip was usually in May, when the apple blossoms were out. This tradition went on through the 1960s, at least as late as 1968.
We usually hit up REI in Seattle on Friday night, crashed in the gardens near St. Marks Cathedral or out by Monitor Rock in West Seattle. Next day, it was off to the Leavenworth area. We generally crashed in the orchard at the base of the Peshastins (this was before the park). When it got dark, we headed to the pubs in Cashmere, or hit up Eric Bjornstad's restaurant/pub (I think it was Eric...) in Leavenworth. Sunday night we headed back to Canada, usually with a zillion $$ of outdoor gear that we had tried to make look used enough so that Canada Customs wouldn't be suspicious.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 30, 2012 - 09:44pm PT
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We carried on that Leavenworth tradition in the eighties, only we'd just wander around REI looking at all the cool stuff. No money, no funny.
But we were there, posing. Might've splurged for a mountain mag.
Had to save our ameribuck$ for der breakfast, das dinner, and dem beers.
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Mar 30, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
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Yo Yo Yo homies shame 'bout all the crack gittin wet up tere all da time.
Must be hard to light.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 30, 2012 - 10:24pm PT
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if you're still in red rocks, Bruce, how about a little csi on what happened to John Rosholt? Can one even hike to the top of Texas Hold'em?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 30, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
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yo Hamish, got a couple questions for ya about Senate Seat.
Did you rest on gear to put that bolt in?
If so, is that still considered a first free ascent, resting on gear or hooks to place a bolt but free climb all the moves?
EDIT; passing that bolt looks like the crux to me but you said up thread its hardest at the top
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Mar 30, 2012 - 10:36pm PT
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Cosmic told me they found him in kind of a spot you would not normally go, something like a ledge at the bottom of a crevice / fissure. Maybe send a pm to Russ Walling or someone like that and they could answer questions for you.
Killer photos Jim !
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 30, 2012 - 11:59pm PT
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Hi Luke. I'm 99% sure drilling that bolt wasn't too tough. Where the crack dies out... that's where the hard stuff starts. It has been 17 years though. The way I remember, the climbing around that bolt area doesn't come close to what's up ahead. Take a bunch of r.p.s, if they still make them.
Question #2: In the rule book that I was issued, no, it wouldn't be a free ascent if you drilled the bolt while hanging on a hook. But when you go to the ground and pull the rope, then you're ready to free it. Ideally the bolts don't have any clips hanging off 'em iether; but we're starting to split a few hairs here. Especially if there's only one bolt on the pitch. You've gotta pull the rope though, that's for sure.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 31, 2012 - 12:48am PT
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Funny thing was that if you had the mental control and the skills to place a hook (while free climbing), put some weight on it, drill a bloody bolt, and not have a complete meltdown; well, next time up, clipping it seemed pretty easy. Just had to get there.
How 'bout those Canucks...5-2 !
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 31, 2012 - 01:08am PT
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Ya, Schnieder is really good. He doesn't even need hooks.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 31, 2012 - 02:36am PT
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We carried on that Leavenworth tradition in the eighties, only we'd just wander around REI looking at all the cool stuff. No money, no funny.
But we were there, posing. Might've splurged for a mountain mag.
Had to save our ameribuck$ for der breakfast, das dinner, and dem beers.
Hey, Hamish: glad the Leavenworth pilgramage carried on for a while. At the time, REI was the ONLY place to get gear. MEC didn't exist, and nobody sold ice axes, crampons, pitons, etc. in Vancouver. So the semi-annual trip to REI was a major focus of the trip.
Like you guys, we didn't have much money. But the Cana-clam was worth more than the Yankeebuck in those days, so we got a bit more out of it. Like you, we had to save or $$ for the all-important beer and pizza.
Like your generation, we had more than our share of car adventures on those trips.... but that would lead to serious thread drift.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 31, 2012 - 02:38am PT
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To continue Tricouni's tale of carousing in Cashmere.....
One year, after several hours of serious drinking, one of the Early Squamish Climbers [TE] was feeling rather queasy, and so staggered outside and sat in his car to get some fresh air. The local sheriff came over to ask some questions. TE opened the car door, and barfed on the sheriff's shoes. He was seriously unamused. Having ascertained that TE had accomplises, and where they were located, the sheriff entered the bar and ordered all of us out of town. He also said something about never returning as well. Just like in the Old West! Rather than risk a lynching, tar and feathers or a rope at dawn, we all left. Pronto. But we did return next year.
Moral of the story: Never underestimate US 'beer'. If you drink too much it will make you sick--but not drunk!
My recollection is that Eric Bjornstad owned a coffee shop in Seattle, not Leavensworth, but it was a long time ago. He was a frequent partner for Uncle Fred, and is now the major desert climbing guru, and has written lotsa guides to the desert climbing areas. Nice guy.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 31, 2012 - 03:14am PT
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I suppose that you could call this a story about shopping at REI. Somehow several of us ended up at one of the university residences in north Seattle. I have no idea why. It was late, and the chesterfields in the communal area looked pretty comfortable. We stretched out and enjoyed a good sleep.
On our next trip we did the same thing. This time we were busted by the custodian, in the middle of the night. Disappointed and sleepy, we headed to the parking lot, and the three of us spent the rest of the night in our VW bug. Not nearly as relaxing as the first time.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 31, 2012 - 03:23am PT
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Me again.....
As close to bouldering as we came. Monitor Rock, Seattle. Dick Culbert on the left, and I think that's Gordie [Stickman] Dunham on the right. One of the first climbing walls, this one is outside.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 31, 2012 - 05:06am PT
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Awesome photo Hamie! and everyone else! this thread is really awesome these days, i haven't been on here for a few & there's so much awesome sh1t to read, thanks everyone for posting. Leavenworth is a great getaway I always try & get there a few times per year. So nice to chill by the river when it's probably pissing in Squamish.
Another PY shot, nice, and an awesome Dave photo in Skaha big Mike.
I didn't think i had any Henkel shots but came across one on my phone
just now from one day down at high cliff. I first climbed with Dave in Cali maybe 5 years ago
as he was travelling with a good buddy of mine and we ended up camping in the buttermilks for about 3 or 4 weeks & got up to all kinds of GT's! Dave is a smooth cat for sure
& a funny guy to be around.
Speaking of High Cliff anyone here done Red Nails? I tried it the day i took this photo
with my Ushba & it was really painful & awkward. Wasn't sure if i was doing it wrong
or what?! Thought it was stout for the bluffs. I'm guessing the name had something to
with the pain from the crack?
Hanging gardens looks like a good time! Thanks Scrubber! Nice work Luke & Mike getting after it in the rain! Yo Luke i'd like to head up to respiration some time for sure, never done any of those so let me know when ur heading there, looks fun.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 31, 2012 - 10:34am PT
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We never got kicked outta Leavenworth but Ranger Bob kicked us out of Heuco Tanks. The guy was a real piece of work.
It had been a rough week, what with the space shuttle exploding and all. The late, GREAT John Rosholt and I had just survived soloing some 300' classic,(on-site,Luke) and we were sitting on John's tailgate. John was drinking a beer when the "sherrif" came by.
"No beer drinking in public... you're banned from the park for 48 hrs."
Well we didn't have a clue what anyone was going to do for a couple days in El Paso, Texas, so we hopped in his 4-runner and pinned it back to Vegas.
Not a squamish story, but Ranger Bob had a reputation. Jerk.
R.I.P. John.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 31, 2012 - 11:17am PT
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Maybe I'll be banned for excessive thread drift. Oh well, I've enjoyed my five minutes.
I've just been chuckling to myself, remembering soloing that classic route with John. We spotted it from the parking lot and figured, what the hell, how hard can it be? It was every climber's dream, beautiful heucos (holes) running right up the whole wall, maybe 300'. The route steepened up for the final 50 or 75 feet, naturally this was the crux. Exposed, to put it mildly.
John stayed about 20' below me the whole time and wouldn't stop talking.
Like my 8 year-old, when he's really happy,like on a bikeride, he just rambles on. John was pretty stressed, and kept babbling away. He kept asking for a "full report" up there. He'd even ask how the holds were. Poor guy was feeling the air beneath him a little too much. Then for the final steep bit, he was yammering about the possibility of down climbing. I kept telling him it wasn't that bad, the holds were pretty good, try to relax, bla-bla-bla. You know, the things you say to keep your friends alive.
We topped out and John kept yammering the whole way down... he couldn't crack that beer fast enough. And along comes Sheriff Puffy-Chest.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 31, 2012 - 11:28am PT
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Haha, sweet stories fellas, cops have a tendency, in my experiences, to be dick heads...
Ryan I'm heading up there for the day today, you're welcome to come by!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 31, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
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Hey Luke, thanks for the invite, wasn't expecting that so quick! Let us know how it goes. I don't think my domestic duties will permit me getting up there today but i'm PMing you my # right now for next time.
Hamish F et all, how did you guys meet John Rosholt? It seems he definitely spent some time here, played a role in some Squamish new routing & was a great partner, friend & human from what i've read on this site & elsewhere. Anyone have a Squamish Rosholt classic/obscurity that they would like to recommend?
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perswig
climber
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Mar 31, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
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Chesterfields, ottomans, divans, oh my!
Next you'll be on about chifforobes.
Or not.
Carry on.
Dale
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 31, 2012 - 04:00pm PT
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Rosholt and I drilled our way up the express lanes on freeway. Mucho classic.
John also did The Big Slick. Another 5 star route.
I'm wondering if he did the ffa of clean crack? Anders will know.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2012 - 05:06pm PT
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Another round of excellent tales. I almost went to Index last year. Sandra has a friend who lives quite close, so we were going to go one weekend last summer, then of course it pissed rain that weekend.. This summer.
Ryan D- Glad you liked it. Nice pic of Dave on "Run Like a Thief", anyone remember the fa story on that one? Something about finding someone's "garden" sunning on top of the cliff?
I haven't hit Red Nails yet. Maybe Tami or PC himself could tell us something about the fa?
Took this one last Sunday on the way down the Apron
According to KM 2001 guide John Rosholt and Randy Atkinson did the FFA of clean crack in 1977 probably not long after Anders cleaned it. Who did the FA? KM has it Unknown.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 31, 2012 - 05:58pm PT
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To continue Tricouni's tale of carousing in Cashmere.....
.... Moral of the story: Never underestimate US 'beer'. If you drink too much it will make you sick--but not drunk!
My recollection is that Eric Bjornstad owned a coffee shop in Seattle, not Leavensworth, but it was a long time ago. He was a frequent partner for Uncle Fred, and is now the major desert climbing guru, and has written lotsa guides to the desert climbing areas. Nice guy.
Hamie, I remember Eric's coffee shop in Seattle, in the University District, IIRC. Eric is indeed a really nice guy. For a Squamish connection, he was with Fred on the FA of Papoose One, lower 1/2 of Angel's Crest, and a couple of things on Nightmare Rock. Maybe it was another climber who had the place in Leavenworth with all sorts of climbing pics on the walls.
Barf seems to crop up frequently in Leavenworth stories. One night, we left the Cashmere pub when it closed and drove back to the P. Pinnacles. Two or three of us decided that an unroped, post-midnight ascent of Orchard Rock was in order. I started up the regular route on the west face, carrying about a gallon of cheap beer and bad chinese food in my stomach. About 3/4 of the way up, I didn't feel so good and ralphed the entire gallon down on the route below. The others declined to come up, leaving me to complete the climb and descend the easy east-side gully on my own.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 31, 2012 - 08:15pm PT
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I bet kid and big mike are wondering what we're talking about with apple orchards and so on
And that's before we even mention The Trigger Finger.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 31, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
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Shackleton!
Now there's a Squamish legend. I'm offline for the next couple of hours, but I expect about ten Pete Shack stories when I check back in. Maybe starting with the van rollover on the descent from Habrich.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 31, 2012 - 11:10pm PT
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Pre-Fantini you mean?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 31, 2012 - 11:13pm PT
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burning down the chesterfield?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 31, 2012 - 11:42pm PT
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The list of Robin Barley's apprentices/rope-guns is a very long one.
Shack has always been great fun. Tami had a significant birthday a few years ago, and I 'treated' her by sending a message to all her old pals, including Pete and Joyce, who she'd lost contact with. Mentioning the event, and providing contact information. I think Pete was one of those who sent her surprise greetings, probably from a yacht somewhere in the South Pacific.
I wonder if he and Guido have crossed paths?
I last saw Peter and Joyce at a coffee shop in Squamish, IIRC two years ago.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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I've heard it called "burning down the love seat"
@ 11c If u only go to the lost hwy anchors.
Someone mentioned Cosgrove on here & what
He did in Squam, the other day @ pet wall I was
Talking with a long time local guide & he told me a
Cool story from back when he was 15 trying to redpoint
Elastic man & Cosgrove was putting bolts in on what
Would later become Lost Highway, the hardest climb
At pet for a while, I always thought bourdon bolted it
& was unaware that it was an abandoned Cosgrove project
For some time, must be tough if the guy who freed the
Grand bailed on it.
He said that they got talking & that Coz claimed Pet
Wall as the best granite face climbing on the planet!
Not a bad claim coming from a very prolific Granite climber.
I didn't ask if he was rap bolting!!
Sorry for the second hand story but with all the chesterfield
Talk & the mention of Cosgrove I thought it was appropriate.
Edit: Bruce, awesome nose story! Did you ever get a chance
To go back up there?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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I'm sure Bruce climbed the Nose, but more importantly he climbed the grand the other day, as did the scrubber. Great to see people rippin it up even when there's snow on top of the mighty Chief.
Even if we do live under a rock up here, we sure have a hell of a backyard to play in.
Oh ya, speaking of John Rosholt's new routing. He also fired a worthy pitch in the freeway roof area. He led the first roof, through those two overlaps,and then instead of hanging a left to get to that belay, he kept going straight up. It's a shallow corner up there, not too bad, and then you join right in with the finish of that next pitch. Quite a nice line and the rope runs really well.
John loved that freeway area and if he's returned as one of those cool Ravens, he'll be one of those that flies in and hassles you when you're at that belay in the cave.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Oh my, I'm "the scrubber" now? I think I'll get a napalm orange spandex superhero outfit made!
There's nowhere to hide you nefarious moss and weeds! The Scrubber is one of the team of superheros known as the Agents of Erosion.
I need more coffee. I don't even know where that came from....
K
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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I was keep to go for a rip up there yesterday morning but could not find a willing n' capable partner; not a drop of rain until 2pm.
Big mike was scared of rain, and Aislinn was sic...
Poor me:(
Here's a little slide my buddy Dave made of his first trip up the grand
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Edit.. Leading the sword was my 2nd 5.11 ever, the first one didn't go smooth either, Bruce posted my ultra flail up thread.
2nd edit: it's pretty neat, as mike mentioned up thread, Henkel taught him and Kyle a lot about climbing 10 years ago, then mike introduced me to climbing, then I met Henkel randomly in the revelstoke backcountry and we've been on many of adventures since, most of them over our heads
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Ya you're the scrubber, says so right beside that little picture.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
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Luke, I wasn't scared of the rain. You started coming up with all these conditions, so it didn't sound like you were really interested in having me as your partner that day, plus I was supposed to go sledding.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Excuses are like a$sholes Mikey; everyones got one and they all stink! you can say what you want but you kno that I know you were scared.:p
I'm gonna start calling ya light mike the fair weather climber
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Oh I'm pretty sure. I remember John and the Chief did it. Plus some brit. joined John one day. Look at the current state of skills around here; I'm sure that thing gets climbed.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
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I'm choosing not to respond so this doesn't become just another typical stuportopo thread.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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If you're ever looking for a spare adventurist Luke, let me know. That is, if you're willing to climb with me based on what you've heard.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Let's make it happen Nate, As long as your not made of sugar, like "light mike".
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Haha, I wouldn't mind climbing with either one of you. Just let me know what works.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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So I may or may not have busted something in my hand a week ago; it's still sore so might impede by ability to climb right now..... Should probably get it checked out. Anyways, depending on when that is feeling better, and the weather improves, anyone want to give a go up the Grand? Can't think of a better first multipitch to start the season.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Would have taken ya up on the offer but me and my girl were on Two rats and a titmouse when ya texted me. Next week.
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kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
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I climbed the big slick with the late great Guy Edwards back in 2002. I led the crux but took a whipper, it was desperate and the next 5.11 pitch back into freeway was runout and scary, Guy made it seem easy and casual. he had a knack for making scary shite seem facile.
we finished with guy onsighting the upperlevels variation.
a great day was had on freeway, RIP Guy.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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What happened to guy?
Also anybody got stories about sig isaac? He was fast when did he arrive in squamish, from where, how did he get so fast
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Guy Edwards and John Millar disappeared during an attempt on the north face of the Devil's Thumb in spring 2003. They're missed.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Bummer, was that before or after krakauers repeat ?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I believe that Krakauer soloed the east ridge in 1977, after failing in an attempt on the north face. The north face has never been climbed.
Google is my friend, eh?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Thanks Anders! Hey you ever gonna tell us the story of the FFA of papoose 1?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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You'd have to check with Glenn on that one. Eric and I believed in 1974 that we'd done the FFA of Papoose One, following the exact original route. But Glenn mentioned a year or two ago that he and Tim had done it in 1967 or 1968. Who knew?
I could tell you about the SFA, if you wanted. And the FFA of Limbo. Not tonight, though - I have invoices to do and gondolas to fight.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Alice Purdey on Papoose I, 1965. Alice was one of several strong women climbing at Squam in the early-mid 1960s.
Note the cool clothing. Note the crappy footwear.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The Papoose in the rain, a few days ago. Papoose One in right centre. I always liked climbing there. It's interesting, featured rock, and a comfortable size.
Scrubber will be pleased to see his handiwork is visible, although in dry weather it'll probably be much less so.
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Hello everyone from me and my cast of Vegas locals at Christmas Tree Pass, NV ! Kinda like Joshua Tree only worse granite, but at least we were the only people there
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Cool pic nails; Was Alice one of the first ladies to climb at Squamish or what? Where is she now?
But my guide book clearly states that you, might hiker, did the FFA, I thought history was set in stone and thT books were always right... Hmm
Interestingly enough dr barley has finally been mentioned in this thread, I was starting to believe he was an urban legend like the easterbunny or the pope.
History is a neat thing it can be manipulated by who ever is sharing it, intentionally or unintentionally
Why does no one ever shares stories about km and rb, the only mention of them in Anders history project ( and this is if I'm reading between the lines correctly) "There were two brits who did some energetic stuff"
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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About robin, as aggrevating as he has been at times I have always contended that his contributions have far outweighed his rough applications. A classic example of this under appreciation is the Green River Bastion.
He also played a big role at Skaha. And climbed a couple of mountains.
And if you want Brits mixed in with your history, you really should not forget John Howard. His name isn't on a whole lot of Squamish FAs, but he had a huge role in the growth of climbing energy at Squamish in the late 60s early 70s. RIP old friend.
And, as has been mentioned above, the ultimate British engergizer bunny was Peter Shackelton. I'll try to summon the energy required to provide a few stories once I'm over this f*#king cold, and finished with this month's f*#king press deadline.
In fact, if you think about it for more than 30 seconds, you realize that the early history of Squamish climbing was deeply influenced by Brits. There was a big influx of ex-Brits to the Vancouver area at that time, and a lot of them were working-class slobs with a bad attitude about management and incredible drive on the rock (Okay, except Barley, who was definitely not working-class). We like to look at Squamish history through a Canadian lens -- Culbert and crew, Tricouni, Hamie, then the Hard Core, and so on, but the contribution of British immigrants is impressive.
And no one could party harder.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Possibly the first person to climb at Squamish was from England, though long before the ones you mention. He also did some climbs in the late 1950s and early 1960s. The other person, again long before the 1970s, was Joe Turley, an immigrant who worked at the mill in Woodfibre and who was probably the first climber who actually lived in Squamish.
There was an English element during the 1960s, but the US contribution was larger, and there were occasional other influences (Mather, Bertulis, Patterson, etc). Hamie and Tricoui can elucidate - noting that Hamie's roots are English, although he may not have started climbing in England. Dick Willmott and Ashlyn Armour-Brown also, IIRC.
The next English climbers arrived in 1970 or so. People like George Waite, Peter Rowat, John Wurflinger, John Howard, and Roger Griffiths. Their names may not be much in the guidebooks, but they and others were definitely around. Barley and McLane arrived soon after, and Milward and Shackleton in the later 1970s.
A complex tapestry.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Alice wasn't the first woman to climb at Squamish. She climbed mostly with Dick Culbert but did a few routes with me and with others. Alice is known mainly as a mountaineer, not a rock climber. She was married to Dick for a while (her children are Vance & Heather Culbert, no mean climbers in their own right). Like MH, she has been active in the BCMC for many years and, like MH, is an Honourary Member of that club.
Possible the first was Ann Mackenzie, who was on the 1st ascent (with Jim Baldwin & Jim Sinclain, 1961) of the Panic Route (on what we called Eleven Bolt Rock) near the base of the Grand Wall.
Mavis McCuaig started climbing at S in, I think, 1962. She climbed mainly with Hamie and to a lesser extent with me. Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side is probably her best-known climb (1965). Maeve might have have been the closest precursor to Tami, in terms of her drive and interest and was probably the first woman to consider herself a serious rock climber. She wasn't much interested in mountaineering but did a few things locally.
I've probably missed a few. Time to put a pot of coffee on....
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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McDonald?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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FFA of Papoose One. Sometime in period from fall 1968 to spring 1970, Tim was back in town from Canmore for a visit. He and headed up to the Papoose (we both had fond memories of it) to do Beckey's Hallucination Route. I recall that we found that the bottom 2 original bolts were chopped -- aid bolts at the time, so we wandered over to Papoose One, which I'd done a couple of times before (once with Alice).
I don't remember that we used any aid on it, but my notes from those years are lost and Tim doesn't have any. I was as good a free climber as I was ever going to be, which isn't saying much, and Tim was as strong as always. I also don't remember it being super-desperate, just a great, highly enjoyable day on the rock (my last great day at Squamish for quite a few years, as it turned out). At the time, I was certainly good enought o do it free.
So I can't say definitively that we did the FFA. Memory fails, and, to be honest, I didn't pay as much attention to FFAs as I should have. This is why Kevin gives FFA of Diedre as unknown (but I might fix that in another post), and why I don't know who made FFA of Slab Alley (possibly brother Bob). So, if I were writing a guidebook, I'd say FA: Fred & Eric B, FFA: Anders & Eric W, but possibly done earlier. A & E probably did the first clean ascent, because Tim & I used pitons.
That's more than anybody wants to know, I'm sure, but there it is.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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I thought history was set in stone and thT books were always right... Hmm
kid, I assume you had tongue in cheek when writing that. I've always thought that history is in part a product of the mind that's creating it, and that different people will write different histories. And I've always thought that guidebooks are often wrong (look at Kevin's guide to do with Hanging Gardens, and O. Hanging Gardens....) Problem is: you never know beforehand where the errors are.
The history that MH is working on, though, will be error-free, I'm sure.
Frank Smythe had an interesting comment on guidbooks; I'll have to hunt it down.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Tami, like you, I've always admired and really liked Alice. Still do. It's a little known fact that Alice's mother and my mother were friends from the time I was two years old until Alice's mom died, maybe 7 years ago. Lived in different parts of the country, but kept in touch at Christmas, always.
Alice is hard at work on a revision of "109 Walks" for the BCMC and the publisher. She'll do a great job.
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MH2
climber
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I can tell a fairly typical Sig Isaac story.
When we moved from Toronto to Vancouver in '91, Dave Smart told me to look up Sig, who had left a big hole in Dave's climbing partnerships when Sig moved west.
If I remember rightly, our first climbs were Daily Planet (all pitches) and then Astrologger. The technical difficulties weren't too bad but it was a bit of an adjustment from Ontario limestone.
A couple years later, apparently still somewhere on Sig's list, I got a call and agreed to be up at 5 a.m. This was during the time he was training for Northern Lights/U Wall/Freeway. When gf had mentioned that combination I took it for a joke at first.
Sig and I finished Freeway before noon. It took about 4 and a half hours, which he said was his fastest time so far. That was the last time that day I felt strong. We met John Rosholt down at the parking lot and the 3 of us did Agonal on the Malemute. Then we went to Pet Wall and I watched Sig and John do some hard stuff.
Sig told some of his own stories: a near-miss on a motorcycle and an unroped fall in the mountains which showed either a fatalistic personality or very cool nerves. On one of his training runs on Freeway he got a little careless and took an 80 foot fall (so the story went) on the pitch just above the big roof, ending in the big air below it. That could freak someone out, but Sig just got himself up and finished the climb, a little embarrassed. A smart strong climber and a great partner.
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MH2
climber
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^^^^
Could be. His words were, "I got careless." He could've meant with avoiding drag. When he did it with me he linked the roof and the next pitch. One of his runners was about 10' long, if I recall correctly.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I had an interesting chat with Les McDonald recently. A lively character.
It would be easy to free, or almost free, Papoose One without noticing. The cruxes are generally fairly short, and there's nothing over 5.9 or easy 5.10.
The history that MH is working on, though, will be error-free, I'm sure.
Very funny. There's no such thing as an error-free history of anything.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Ram (Mark Gandy) and I did that freeway time-saver once. Never again; huge rope drag. Sounded like a good idea at the time...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Most unappreciated Squamish climber ever = Hank Mather?
I get the feeling there was a language barrier that kept some guys from being noticed. Like, Mather was of Germanic ancestry. I never met him but Lyle Knight got to interview him when putting Central BC Rock together. Sounds like Mather had kind of a strong Germanic accent. So his English speaking partners (Beckey, MacDonald, etc.) mostly werre the ones who wrote up the climbs and thus get name checked today.
When you look at the climbs he did though, F*#KING INCREDIBLE.
Marble Canyon headwall all free in the 60s?
First wall route in the Bugs, with Beckey!
First real route at Squamish, South Gully (5.8 A1) - Campbell guide has this as FA 1957 and north Gully as FA 1958 - also south gully chockstone crux is way,way more butch than north gully. McLane guide has them both as 1958 but McLane is prone to errors of this sort.
North buttress of Stewart in the Cheam Range - unrepeated for 50 something years - steep climbing on bad rock
And yet this is a guy who Chic Scott, our definitive Canadian climbing history writer, only managed to find one line to describe, apparently thinking he was an American? I mean, sh#t. Talk about under the radar.
Hamie? Glenn? You guys ever meet Hank? What was he like?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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MH. There is a big difference between being English and being British! Tsssk. I think that Peter Rowat was from the USA not the UK, arriving about the time of the Vietnam War, but maybe not. He is of course best known for the FA of the fabulous South Ridge of Gimli, one of BC's super ultra classics.
Les McDonald, whom you met recently, was an ex-member [if you were allowed to leave] of the notorious/feared Creagh Dhu Club from Glasgow. Definitely not English. He was the first Brit to climb at Squamish, and he was BRILLIANT, way way better than anyone else, likely the best rockclimber in Canada at that time. Unfortunately for us, he was a dedicated family man, and rarely went climbing. He was our answer to Frank Sacherer, whom he resembled in ability, attitude and build. I also recall a story that Les ran as a Communist candidate for North Van in the 1958 federal election, but that could have been a case of Les and Big Jim winding me up. [Bastards!]
Ann MacKenzie, who was involved in the FA of Panic was a one-day climber. She was many months pregnant at the time.
Mave was a serious climber. She and her friend Sheila M were the first Canadian women to visit Yosemite, in 1965, where they did several short routes with Layton Kor.
FFA Slab Alley--1962--Bob Woodsworth and _--1.5 hours.
All for now!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Les told me he was born in Felling, in north England. He may consider himself a Scot - I'll ask.
According to Beckey's 100 Climbs book, Hank Mather's proper name is Henryk, and IIRC I read somewhere that he's of Polish, not German, origin. I'll ask him, too. (Is Henryk a German or Polish name? Or both?)
Both amazing climbers.
Jim H got hurt in 1984. I was working with his brother that summer, and visited Jim at UBC hospital. He was his usual self.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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This Hank Mather character sounds pretty under-rated indeed, I've never heard (or read) the name ever. I do not recall him being mentioned in Anders' history presentation either.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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First real route at Squamish, South Gully (5.8 A1)
-Seems noteworthy to me
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Climbed a day In Josh a few weeks ago with a guy named Peter from Squamish. Not Croft. Son named Jayko, maybe 6 or 7?
Wanted to drop him a line. Anybody help?
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Stewart on the right. Looks like a couple distinct possible lines there. Presumably the Mather route takes the central line, the one casting the shadow. Adolf Bitterlich/Mather 1967.
Beckey guide says it goes up a couloir to start then "rightward" onto the ridge crest. Either by right they mean "true right" (facing downhill) and it goes up that super narrow couloir line to get onto the buttress crest, OR it is in the hidden gully behind the buttress (in the shadow) to start.
Adolf Bitterlich and his brother Ulf were hard climbers too. From Vancouver Island - I think Port Alberni? - but originally from Dresden. First Canadian ascent of the Wadd.
I've got a better pic somewhere of Stewart NF in winter. Will look for it.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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It seems likely that there was 'real' climbing at Squamish before 1957, although the details may be lost to the mists of history. One person did some things in 1956, anyway. There is circumstantial evidence, and stories by Big Jim, to suggest that there may have been climbing earlier in the 1950s, and possibly as early as the 1930s, perhaps by people from Britannia Beach/Mount Sheer, which was then much larger than Squamish. There is a photo from the 1930s of people from Britannia on top of a local mountain, roped together, and Glenn has mentioned a known mountaineer who lived there then. The people of Britannia used what became Murrin Park as something of a recreation site. Perhaps they tried out their equipment there? I'm trying to track these things down.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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MH. Check that Creagh Dhu story too!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Tami, please ask your parents if they know anything about when climbing started at Lighthouse Park, and the quarry.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 2, 2012 - 07:25pm PT
Most unappreciated Squamish climber ever = Hank Mather?
I get the feeling there was a language barrier that kept some guys from being noticed. Like, Mather was of Germanic ancestry. I never met him but Lyle Knight got to interview him when putting Central BC Rock together. Sounds like Mather had kind of a strong Germanic accent. So his English speaking partners (Beckey, MacDonald, etc.) mostly werre the ones who wrote up the climbs and thus get name checked today.
When you look at the climbs he did though, F*#KING INCREDIBLE.
Marble Canyon headwall all free in the 60s?
First wall route in the Bugs, with Beckey!
First real route at Squamish, South Gully (5.8 A1) - Campbell guide has this as FA 1957 and north Gully as FA 1958 - also south gully chockstone crux is way,way more butch than north gully. McLane guide has them both as 1958 but McLane is prone to errors of this sort.
North buttress of Stewart in the Cheam Range - unrepeated for 50 something years - steep climbing on bad rock
And yet this is a guy who Chic Scott, our definitive Canadian climbing history writer, only managed to find one line to describe, apparently thinking he was an American? I mean, sh#t. Talk about under the radar.
Hamie? Glenn? You guys ever meet Hank? What was he like?
Don't forget that he and Les did the Widowmaker Arete on Crown, now considered one of the classic local climbs, not to mention another line or two on the Camel. "Stiff class 4-low class 5". Those guys were GREAT. Don't forget that Les also did some hard, multi-pitch rock climbs on the walls above Lake Ann (Shuksan area) in the early 1960s, and Les (and Hank?) also did some multi-pitch rock routes on Goat Mountain in behind Grouse.
Chic Scott really blew it by not including Les and Hank in his book. He also blundered badly by not including Leif-NOrman Patterson; Hamish Mutch could well have beeen included, too.
I did meet Hank Mather. First time was at some ACC thing, very early 1960s, and I found him quite intimidating. But that was probably the age and experience difference (he was more than twice as old as I, and only 1000 times more experience). I was quite used to thick German accents. I met him again, probably in connection with research for Culbert's guide and found him quite pleasant.
I have no Hank Mather stories, but I've got a couple of Les MacDonald stories. One I'll probably post here sometime. The other isn't a Squamish story.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Tom Fyles was really good. He probably climbed the Camel umpteen times. Table, solo, FA. Repeated it later because some people expressed some doubt ... Outer peak of the Black Tusk. FWA West Lion. FA west buttress on Ledge. Don't forget FA of Judge Howay (including solo FA of the lower peak). And choss like Meager, Pylon, Cayley.
Chic Scott is a Rockies guy. And some of us who he interviewed did steer him in the direction of lesser known Coast Mtns people, at least I did. Good book in spite of the errors. Could any of us carping about this stuff have done better? I doubt it.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2012 - 02:37am PT
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You guys are doing better right now! Thanks for sharing some awesome Squamish history and inspiring the next generation to raise our game to match your ethics!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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I was wrong about Ann Mackenzie being the first woman climber at Squamish. As hamie mentioned, she was a one-climb woman (8 months pregnant). The first had to be Elfrida Pigou, who was on the FA of the North Gully in 1958. Tami's and Bruce's parents no doubt knew her well. Amazing person, and with this fire, drive that Tami mentioned with respect to Alice. And Tami has it, and Maeve did, to some extent.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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On reflection I now realize that it was NOT Peter Rowat who came from the USA, but rather his climbing partner Peter Koedt. A terrific team. Please excuse! Apologies to MH.....
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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The Man from Jackson Hole, a 3 star 10a crack at nordic in Whistler.
A quality climb indeed!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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After I did the Koedt-Rowat on Gladsheim a couple years ago I sent Peter Rowat an email with a pic telling him what a great route I thought it was and he replied something along the lines of "You've brought a tear to this old man's eye."
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Speaking of Chic's book there is some story in there about Les McDonald freeing a section of the Grand's lower slabs bolt ladder at 5.crazy hard and none of the current generation of climbers ever being able to even top-rope it again. Chic has the story as a quote from Jim Sinclair (p.243) but perhaps someone else out there can provide more accurate details?
I think this is the section that's shown on the Campbell guide Grand Wall topo (p.54) as running from the 3rd to 5th belay on the bolt ladder slabs as 11+ out left of the bolts. Terrain since partially freed by Boyd as War of the Raptors, 5.12. So was Les McDonald really freeing 5.12 slab back in the 60s?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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A photo of Elfrieda (Elfrida?) Pigou, which Ed Cooper posted on another thread.
She was apparently not a tall or big woman, but was quite tough and determined. Amongst other things, she was involved in the FA of North Gully, one of the first 'climbs' on the Chief, in 1958. Probably a week after the highway opened.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Cool Pics and stories OPLOP! I have a feeling we are just scratching the surface of your photo and story archive.
Anders, that Elfrida lady, sounds like she was an amazing person and climber.
So Squamish climbers have a history being in the mountains in the wrong place at the right time, Elfrida, Guy Edwards, is there any others? As some of you might have read on here Big Mike was partially buried just the other day.
Does anyone know the significance of this plaque? I googled the names but couldnt find anything relevant.
Were these guys climbers or loggers?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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So Squamish climbers have a history being in the mountains in the wrong place at the right time, Elfrida, Guy Edwards, is there any others?
Many, many others. Too many. Most of them friends of those of us who post here, and I'll not list their names, because I don't need that particular pain right now.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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There is your shannon creek memorial bruce...so kid did you drive to it? Was the road basically ok up till then besides the boulder blockade?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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That photo was from last summer and no we did not drive to it. If I recall correctly it was a km or 2 past the blockade.
If you are wondering about the current road conditions last month the final km to the blockade was too deep to 4x4.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I won't add to this. I've had too many close calls over many years, lost too many friends to avalanches, and there are too many sad memories. Hopefully I did my penance, by teaching introductory avalanche courses for some years, and doing my best to put the fear of god into the students.
Dick Culbert's guide said it best: Avalanches are the #1 killer of climbers and mountaineers in B.C.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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I read yesterday that in 1963 two English climbers died in an avalanche close to one of the grit-stone areas near Manchester. A deadly avalanche in England! Who'd a thunk?
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Just a heads up; a snowboarder was found upside down in a tree well (in bounds) on Blackcomb today. Unresponsive when pulled out and air evac-ed to the hospital. Unfortunately he didn't make it.
Just a reminder that the snow is still very deep in the trees, and riding them alone is not in anyones best interests.
Unfortunately, all too relevant to the current topic of discussion :(
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Just a heads up; a snowboarder was found upside down in a tree well
A reminder that it isn't just avalanches that kill us. We step too far out on cornices. We think we can tell which glaciers require a rope and which don't. We think we know which rivers are safe to cross and which are not.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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..... and it appears that I've killed the thread.
In an effort to revive it, and bring it out of the somber atmosphere, allow me to pose the question: What's the history of Freeway? Was it an aid climb before a free climb? When was it first done? I'd like to get at it sometime this season.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Try not to take any Sig like whippers on it.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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..and I tweaked my knee today playing at the Duffey when I should have known better...sucks using non releasable tele bindings....
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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What's the history of Freeway? Was it an aid climb before a free climb? When was it first done? I'd like to get at it sometime this season.
Can't help with Freeway, but in the interest of keeping the thread going (it's a great thread) here's a trivia question. What route was tentatively named the "Trans-Continental Nailway" before the first-attempters abandoned it and lost the right to name it? Hint: it had lots of nailing on it back in the mists of time....
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Hint: it had lots of nailing on it back in the mists of time....
That's not much of a hint. Pretty much everything at Squamish that wasn't on the Apron back in the mists of time had lots of nailing on it.
I think after the obligatory trip up Slab Alley, my second climb was Mushroom. On which I learned to remove pitons. Dozens of them.
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MH2
climber
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A route called Transcontinental Nailway was done in the Gunks in 1961 by Joe Fitschen and Art Gran. It was freed in 1965 by Jim McCarthy and is now sometimes called Freeway.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Horrors of Ivan. 5.10 c/d when Peter first put it up.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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It would be a "problem" if you popped off on the crux and hit the "boulder" at the base. :)
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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A route called Transcontinental Nailway was done in the Gunks in 1961 by Joe Fitschen and Art Gran. It was freed in 1965 by Jim McCarthy and is now sometimes called Freeway.
Sometime in late 1960s, somebody (sorry, can't remember) and I started up one of the dihedrals near Western Dihedral. We got, oh, 3 pitches up it. Rain came and we never went back. That was to be TCN. Is it possible that it's now Freeway? (I have trouble keeping the routes there straight in my mind)?
Did anyone ever find any old slings, pins, maybe ropes in that area?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Did Tantalus crack last summer & have not been so stoked to onsight a 10a in a while.........a wee bit harder than say the first pitch of exasperator that one is.
An epic pitch.
My guidebook calls wild turkey 11a? Have to check that one out this summer.
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MH2
climber
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I've posted a similar picture before, but here is a look at Tantalus/Yosemite crack.
Also Left Side of Yosemite Pinnacle!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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MH2 Nice shot of YPLS. If anyone is heading up there this year, please take a small folding saw, and remove the three scraggly trees which are visible. They are new, and spoil the profile.
Jim. Glad to hear that you enjoyed YPLS so much. Definitely a fun climb.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Yes, nice photos - although Tom Evans might have something to say about the climber's (lack of) bright coloured clothing!
I once saw Steve Sutton lead Yosemite Pinnacle in about ten minutes, with his only protection fairly low down. It was quite something.
Didn't Fred et al, on the FA, climb cracks to the right, and pendulum in? Something like that, anyway - must look it up.
IIRC, Freeway starts up the first bit of Getting Down in the Brown, or just right of it, and branches off within a pitch or two. The next big corner to the left is Western Dihedral, and the next one is Illusion, which ends at Trichome Ledge, where Clean Corner begins. Even Scrubber might think twice about cleaning some of those out.
And yes, YPLS is something of a workout.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
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Tricouni- Is it possible that it is deadend dihedral that you speak of? left of western dihedral?
Hamie- What can you tell us about your expedition of crap crags BITGOD? I am making a point of doing "Europa" this season so I can see what the deal is for myself.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Big Mike, Yes, it's definitely possible, perhaps very likely. I'm pretty sure it's left of Western Dihedral. Big, obvious left-facing corner, dirty at the bottom, then getting clean. Next time I'm up there I'll have a look.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I'm pretty sure it's left of Western Dihedral. Big, obvious left-facing corner, dirty at the bottom, then getting clean.
I went up there once with Steve Loomer. I won the toss and led the first pitch of whichever of those dihedrals we wound up at the base of. It was a decent day, but it had been raining in the days before, and what I had to dig out of the crack for every placement was muddy and gross, and every single piece of it rained down directly on Loomer. He'd worn whites that day, but they didn't stay white for long, and he required that we bail once he cleaned the pitch.
No idea which of the dihedrals it was, but I'm sure it's a cool free climb now.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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No idea which of the dihedrals it was, but I'm sure it's a cool free climb now.
You didn't find any old, old gear, did you?
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Re Freeway,
I had imagined this line for some time and had probably convinced more than a few people to look at it through binos before it's first ascent. We did a lot of that back then and some of us still do.
I had been hanging out in California with George Manson, Tom Gibson, Greg Cameron Rob Rohn and their peripheral orbiters prior to them showing up in Squamish. Tom and Rob were keen on something new and I suggested the line that eventually became Freeway. They invited me along but I think I was busy at the time with a budding romance and a cool line on the Sheriff's Badge. Tom and Rob persevered and climbed the route pretty much as imagined and used some 80' of aid. Dean and Randy (Tall Guys in Tights or Northern Lights?) later set to work and eliminated and bypassed the aid and the result was an enduring classic.
George, Tom, Greg and Rob brought incredible new energy to Squamish and inspired many of us to start looking at the free potential on big steep lines regarded primarily as aid climbs. They climbed the Merci Me connection to the base of the Pillar with some aid and convinced me it would go free with a few pins and a couple bolts, so I did. Greg established an entirely new paradigm with his on sight ropeless first free ascent of Pipeline (aka Pipeloads).
Beyond being one of the finest routes in the known universe, I suggest Freeway is important in that it was one of the first big walls in Squamish to be approached as a free route on the first ascent. It represents a pivotal time in Squamish climbing history and credit must be given to the late great General George Manson and his crew for their inspiring efforts.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2012 - 01:25am PT
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Chief- Thanks for that. Nice work on convincing Greg to go solo pipeloads :)
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Big Mike,
Can't take any credit for suggesting that the Grug from Cameroon solo Pipeline!
I distinctly remember blowing hootch with him later that day and his sheepish admission to us as to what he'd done.
We were flabbergasted and completely agog at the mere thought.
Inconceivable!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2012 - 02:42am PT
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Perry was the one who talked up Pipeline. He had known about my Lost Arrow Chimney solo. I remember him showing us the climb from still some distance away the evening before I climbed it. I can't remember much else but setting out the next morning by myself and doing it. Those sawed-off pipes were plentiful (at least 4 of them), and I vaguely remember having a hard time getting around at least one of them.
Perry had suggested the FFA name be called Pipeloads. I sort of agreed, but apparently nothing came of it. I had no idea that this climb would become a classic.
Chief- Re-reading this, I guess you are right but it certainly seems like you inspired him to climb it.
Maybe Glenn can tell us a tale from the FA?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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The latest mind blowing paradigm shift in Squamish climbing in my opinion was Alex Honnold's free solo of the Northern Lights. I think I had the same reaction you had to Grug when I heard that. Oh ya, and Freeway... He soloed that too.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Big Mike Not a lot to say about the FA of Crap Crags/Europa. The climb was Dick's idea, and beforehand I had no idea where it went or how long it was etc. For some perspective, it was the 17th or 18th route at Sq, and after the Grand it was only the second 'full height' route which did not follow a gully or buttress.
Some days it is better to be lucky than good. We did the climb in February, when the days are short. We had no bivvy gear, no flashlights and only a single 120' rope. It's said that if you carry the Ten Essentials, then you will definitely need them all. If the climb had not 'gone' we were truly fooked! Our only hope of staying warm would have been to set one of the ledges on fire. Dick would have liked that. Me too.
Jeff Mottershead and his friends did an incredible amount of work, and I'm still not sure how it all turned out. He is now a friend of mine, and we have climbed together at Waterline. I do not believe in re-naming a climb under any circumstances, but of course in 1962 we had no idea that Sq would become a world famous destination. Apparently KM was a factor in changing the name to Europa. If it had been up to me, I would have chosen a new name which reflected on the local population, such as 'Warrior' or 'Shaman'.
I have been thinking about a 50th anniversary ascent with Jeff, but am prolly too lazy to drive to the coast. I'll be very interested to hear what you think, and expect to see LOTS of photos.
EDIT Tried to upload a photo, but the link is broken tonight. Will try again tomorrow.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Thanks for the story on Freeway Perry. Good stuff all around here :)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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I guess Pipeline would be another mandatory tick on the road to being a 5.10 climber??
Awesome photos MH2!
Europa was an ok route, definitely not the "easiest" full height route on the chief as it was supposed to be but it had some decent climbing on a few sections. It seemed like in some spots they had removed vegetation that was at least a few feet deep! Maybe a bit too ambitious of a cleaning project IMO but it's clean enough to climb for the moment so get up there before the mud grows back.
Hey Luke i haven't been on here much this week but i just saw that lil slide edit of you & Henkel, pretty cool & funny coincidence how you boys all met, we'll all have to go craggin soon when his shoulder & the weather is better.
Enjoy the sun today everyone, i'm off to pet wall to get my ass kicked as per usual!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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BK,
I think you have the story pretty much right.
George and three others literally disappeared on their way to the Cassin and their bodies never found. George was a great climber, force of nature and a natural leader and it was hard to avoid being caught up in whatever he thought was important.
I found this excerpt from a piece on Bon Echo.
"George Manson was a charismatic and powerful figure" and "the leader of a new generation"
"In July of 1980, Manson and three companions, Al Chase, Sean Lewis and Dave Caroll disappeared on Mount McKinley while climbing the Cassin Ridge. It had tremendous repercussions for the Toronto climbing community."
Respect
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kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
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I second that! I still havn't made it back to Yos pinacle left side to follow through on our agreement..... maybe you could get up ther with me! It could be my last chance at persuading you against the chop, and if that fails you could have the honor yourself. After that its drinks on the Casino deck. Wuddya say?
I just want to add my .02$ worth on the bolt on ypls.
I think if BK added a bolt to the route to replace natural pro that doesn't exist anymore (dead tree) then it should stay.
Bruce is one of the boldest climbers I know and he wouldn't add bolts to any route unless he thought it was needed.
I think if the bolt gets chopped then the route will fall back into obscurity and quickly will return to its former overgrown and unenjoyable state.
Just sayin...
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Which casino Bruce ? There are so many of them ... count me in !
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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My project today. Apart, that is, from a gondola meeting, getting some fine Norwegian bread at the Golden Crust, socializing with Brian Moorhead, and visiting my brother and delivering his birthday present. (He lurks, but rarely posts.)
That's about three hours of effort. You put the paste on, wait a while, repeatedly scrub like hell and rinse, then repeat. Plus socialize a bit. Luckily the ditch-crick is still running, so I could refill on water, the key element. Luckily also it was at ground level. One more session should do it, maybe in this case requiring a bit of wire brushing. At least it's an area with little lichen or moss - removing the graffiti in such cases inevitably leaves a bare patch. An improvement, but you never get back to normal.
I've been working on one removal project in the Bluffs that requires use of a rope and harness, and is on a high, dry rock. The logistics are a nuisance, but I guess it's good exercise.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Big Mike. Here's the promised pic of Europa/Crap Crags, and hardly worth the wait. It shows the first pitch above Trichome Ledge, some kind of a chimney/jam crack thingy. Apparently this pitch can now be avoided by a 5 bolt ladder, @ A0. I looked up 'trichome', and it means 'the outgrowth from the eperdemis of a plant', which didn't make me any the wiser!
EDIT. Good work MH. Thanks.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Nice photo, Hamie.
"Trichome" from the Greek trikhoma meaning "growth of hair." The name came about because of the rather bushy nature of the ledge and also because it's about 2/3 of the way up the wall at that point, hence the "tri". Sort of a double allusion.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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I think that a while ago there was a consensus decision not to discuss politics, religion or bolts, unless all other possible topics, including the Sq gondola, had been completely exhausted.
@ kaiser.
If we were to replace every dead tree with a new bolt, we would have a fine mess indeed. I do not recall slinging any trees, although we may have done so. The three saplings currently growing out of the main pitch are all new, and should be removed. With today's incredible selection and range of protection it should be possible to arrange something else.
@ Bruce Kay.
No offence taken I hope, but no reprieve for that bolt. I would still enjoy sharing a brew sometime. Make that several!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Nails. OMG! You must be a whiz at those cryptic crosswords. Either that, or you spent way too much time with Dick. I know that tricouni means a three bumped hard nail which used to be attached to a climbing shoe, but surprisingly it is not listed in my fairly robust dictionary. Maybe on Wiki.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Nails. OMG! You must be a whiz at those cryptic crosswords. Either that, or you spent way too much time with Dick. I know that tricouni means a three bumped hard nail which used to be attached to a climbing shoe, but surprisingly it is not listed in my fairly robust dictionary. Maybe on Wiki.
Yep, tricounis are a form of saw-tooth boot nail with three teeth (hence the 'tri") invented sometime around WW 1. They were considered far superior to the older-style and softer hobnails and were the dominant sole for climbing boots well into the 1950s. In sure the Bruce Kay's and Tami's parents were well aquainted with them. Even the first edition of "Freedom of the Hills" waffled on the question of which was better: tricouni-nailed boots or Vibram.
I once had a pair of boots with Vibram soles and tricouni heels. Worked great in the bush and on slippery logs, where I could dig in my heel. Great on steep, frosty meadows. Great descending steep, hard snow. Good ascending rock. Crappy ascending hard snow, crappy descending moderate rock and really crappy descending talus (mis-judge one jump, and you were skittering onto your ass). I loved those boots.
In 1993 my wife and I were casting about for a name for our microscopic publishing company. Our first book was a hiking/outdoors book to the Whistler area (great cartoons by Tami, for all you Tami cartoon completists). We wanted an outdoors-sort of name, and also something that was unique in the publishing world. There was already a Tantalus Press (Tantalus is a peak near Squamish) and a Cloudburst Press (north of Squamish). There were zillions of Whister Presses, a few Black Tusk Presses, and the like.
North of Cloudburst is Tricouni Peak, named by Tom Fyles and the 1931 first ascent party because the 3 summits remined them of a tricouni nail. There was no Tricouni Press anywhere in the world that I could find, and the name sounded unusual enough, so we became Tricouni Press Ltd. We've done about 8 books to date, with another at the layout and design stage, and one more (on glaciers) in the planning stage.
So my email address is tricouni @ blah blah, and hence the avatar. Tricouni nails are highly unfashionable and rather antique, even obsolete, sort of how I feel these days.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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I'd have to say Bruce looks pretty happy with his Red Rocks climbing partner. Way to go.
Wow Anders, that's a lot of hard work and you're generating a bunch of good karma; I think you should go join Bruce in Vegas.
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kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
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I think that a while ago there was a consensus decision not to discuss politics, religion or bolts, unless all other possible topics, including the Sq gondola, had been completely exhausted.
@ kaiser.
If we were to replace every dead tree with a new bolt, we would have a fine mess indeed. I do not recall slinging any trees, although we may have done so. The three saplings currently growing out of the main pitch are all new, and should be removed. With today's incredible selection and range of protection it should be possible to arrange something else.
@ Bruce Kay.
No offence taken I hope, but no reprieve for that bolt. I would still enjoy sharing a brew sometime. Make that several!
Hamie,
I whole heartedly agree with this statement @ kaiser.
If we were to replace every dead tree with a new bolt, we would have a fine mess indeed but I think every case is different, If we followed Tami's statement to the letter of the law, climbing in squamish would be quite different then it is today and we would have tons of chopping to do. The pet wall would fall back into its former state as a "hardmans only" crag, Deirdre would be an even worse nightmare without the 2 bolt anchors at each belay and world class long routes such as cerberus (Free version) would not exsist. Thats just to name a few.
The problem with YPLS is that darn tree island at the top. Without constant traffic, it would get reclaimed by the jungle quite quickly especially if it gets a rep as being a spooky lead.
Anyways, no offense to anyone, but I do hope the bolt stays.
In fact after 20 years of climbing in squamish, ypls has remained on my hit list.
Since my bold days all long behind my, I had better get on it before the hammer falls.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
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Tami- That's all well and good, but what if a pertinenent piece of protection such as a tree died and left the climb in way more of a run-out state than the first ascentionists enjoyed? Not sure about YLPS yet, but that certainly seems to be the case for the first piece of pro on Clean Corner.
Hamie- Thanks for the pic! I don't remember us agreeing to never go off-topic but rather to limit it so as not to de-rail the thread. If something is worth discussing then it is worth starting a new thread. That doesn't mean such discussions can't start here, but I think we would all be disapointed if they took over.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2012 - 01:09pm PT
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Back on topic.
Aislinn on Make It Monkey 5.10+
This girl is scared to lead easy trad but she'll jump on a 10+ slab route :)
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MH2
climber
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"Time eventually positions most photographs, even the most amateurish, at the level of art."
in On Photography, Susan Sontag
That picture of the final chimneys on Crap Crags is worth a lot! The value is a combination of what's in the photo and what's in the viewer. For me at least, that picture reminds how much climbing has changed and how much it has remained the same. Kind of a funny feeling.
Neil Bennet and I climbed Crap Crags, pre-cleaning, on a recommendation from Ghost. The first 3 pitches were all cedar, if I remember. We didn't really know where we were or where to go. That is probably why we finished up Clean Corner. At least we knew where we were.
I think hamie's Dick Culbert photo was taken near the picture below. This is the place where Europa has a bolt ladder. Over to the left out of sight there is a chimney we have used to bypass the bolts (and people) on a couple occasions. We transfer back to Europa across the right side of the chimney a little above the end of the bolts.
Here are recent pictures from near the top of Europa, looking up and then down.
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kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
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Hey Tami,
I think I understood what you meant about no added bolts to existing routes, in fact all the examples I gave were established routes with bolts added. The pet wall ones were added by the FAists but others like cerberus or the black dyke or the bolted anchors on Deirdre were done by others.
I personally think the squamish climbing community does a great job taking care of it's routes, some anchors get added, some bolts replace pins or just get pulled and don't get replaced because they are not needed, other unneeded bolts get chopped never to return. Some of the most famous ones would be the 2 on the pillar, the one at the top of the sword and the 2 on the sail flake pitch of the grand wall.
Anyways this topic has been beat to death over the years and I will let it go, Like I said earlier
it's just my .02 cents worth.
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cowpoke
climber
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Thread lurker confession. Keeping me stoked, between the bouts of envy.
Gonna be there in a few days (my honey's first time) = yay! Hoping for a day or two of climbing-cooperative weather, but coming prepared and psyched for a variety of fun.
Thanks for the writing and pics!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Apr 10, 2012 - 12:09am PT
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Not being as old as Tricouni [ha ha], I have never owned any nailed boots. However I did use some once. My first climbing boots were an ex-army pair, to which some Vibram Montana soles had been glued. Towards the end of a trip to Zermatt they delammed, and were beyond repair. A friend had brought along a pair of fully nailed boots as a spare. Having no choice, and regardless of fit, I wore these on our last climb, an ascent of the Zinal Rorhorn by the voie normal. They worked well on the lower snow ridge, but were a bit scratchy on the final rock slabs and gendarme, especially on the descent. An interesting once-in-a-lifetime experience.
As for my old boots, well.....well.....blush.....I chucked them in the powerful glacier-fed river which flows through Zermatt. I know, I know, but it seemed like a good idea at the time.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 10, 2012 - 02:12am PT
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Its was a party most definitely... now to go cleanse my bloody left kneecap.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2012 - 02:31am PT
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Oh my poor hands and elbows! :)
Here's a better one of Aislinn on Make It Monkey
Luke's got the YPLS pics. Hopefully we'll get some soon.
Hamie- Nice pics! Those nailed boots sound pretty interesting!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 10, 2012 - 02:41am PT
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Sighted at 4:00 PM today.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2012 - 03:12am PT
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Nice photo MH
That's Relic on the second anchor. Me and Luke at the top.
Long overdue is my Hanging Gardens TR. Here it is!
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Hanging-Gardens/t11416n.html
Hamie- It seems that Bruce did remove those trees last year during his spring cleaning. It's holding up quite well considering the lack of traffic. Very bold sir, and Glenn of course.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 10, 2012 - 03:22am PT
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Hard to see us in that picture but that must be Luke on top belaying, Mike hidden in the inner depths of the chimney, and me at the lower belay waiting. We got our asses handed to us by this climb. Full respect goes out to Hamish M. for such a burl-fest. And I'd like to thank that old knotted cord hanging from the chockstone past Bruce's bolt placement for remaining in tact as I yarded on it. It made be feel shame but saved me from having to scrape my way into a hyperventilating frenzy trying to mount the chockstone. Luckily the pitch gets quite a bit easier after that, but still I had to keep stopping to return my breathing to a normal rate.
It's funny, I found the first pitch's chimney flare quite relaxing and enjoyable. Size matters I guess. Oh and so does a nice cushy top rope.
And Hamish, as you can see from the April 9th, 2012 4:00pm shot, those scraggly trees were nicely sawed down by Bruce.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 10, 2012 - 10:59am PT
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The Squamish Obscura and Chimney Club first group outing was a humbling one indeed! After Mike got spit out of the 2nd pitches squeeze flare section, twice, down he came... Never before have I seen some one fall out of a chimney.. Up I go in to the flare and up past the old piton and fixed mank combo that Mike was whippin on. I spun around and got my left shoulder in and would make about 6 inches of progress and be totally spent and while trying to rest slide back down 3....
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 10, 2012 - 11:09am PT
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Luke, I'd call the chimney flare to hand fist and finger corner crack the first pitch. The first first one was more of just an approach pitch, despite the one real move to start it off the ground.
Post your pics! Do you have any of the pulsating green rock ooze?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 10, 2012 - 11:13am PT
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..Finally I got a chest jam, and was able to shake out my legs and one arm...
@Relic- You're absolutely right.. as long as you're not disputing your affiliation with the recently founded Squamish Obscura & Chimney Club, we're counting on you to teach the rest of us the flying armbar
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 10, 2012 - 11:34am PT
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I'm totally down with the klub, only if we can change the name to SOCK -- Squamish Obscura & Chimney Klub.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 10, 2012 - 11:51am PT
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Big Mike. Here's the promised pic of Europa/Crap Crags, and hardly worth the wait. It shows the first pitch above Trichome Ledge, some kind of a chimney/jam crack thingy. Apparently this pitch can now be avoided by a 5 bolt ladder, @ A0.
Wow. Great picture Hamish. And does it ever bring back memories. I climbed CC with Steve Loomer some time around 1975 or 76. Absolutely loved it, and never understood why it didn't get constant traffic.
I guess it's another example of the inability of a lot of climbers to see "a route" unless it's completely clean and obvious. I've done more than my share of scrubbing and cleaning and deforestation on the Chief and elsewhere, but Crap Crags, despite being heavily forested, was a gem. Fun climbing, not terribly hard, some great positions, a natural line...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 10, 2012 - 12:01pm PT
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Do members of the Cacademon Climbing Club get free membership?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 10, 2012 - 12:08pm PT
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Hhahaha! Nice one Tami.
Anders the only way in is to participate in an obscure outing.
I'm the founder, Mike's Flounder and Relic is the armbar specialist...
Kneewrecker chimney is on the hit list, as well as clean corner and cataract crags and Zodiak Wall!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 10, 2012 - 12:10pm PT
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Haha nice work boys! i was watching you guys for a bit yesterday & I could hear someone making all kinds of unearthly sounds combined with earthly profanities up there while i was laying on my crash pad in the sanctuary of the boulders smoking doobs & napping.... I was jealous, nice work.
What's next for SOCK or SOCC? U guys should try the little 10a to the right...Kneewrecker always sounded like a fun one.
Although not obscure, the Flake rarely gets climbed & is a good exercise in Chimmney climbing.
I think Tall, Skinny people would also qualify. Perhaps someone on here knows about that one??
Looks extra greasy and obscure.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 10, 2012 - 12:15pm PT
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@Ryan D- That inappropriate explosion of profanities would have been from Big Mike the Flounderer, he was cursing a whining all day. Tall Skinny people and Tantalus Crack are definitely on the list as well.
The Flake is Heinous, as must do for any aspiring grovelmaster.
NEW ACRONYM; Thanks to the help of Tami, Bruce And Relic
EDIT; Squamish Totally Uber-Obscura Chimney Klub; STUCK!
I was working on that all morning, I guess I just had to perfect the ratio of coffee to cannabis
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 10, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
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I've done Flake Route, Kneewrecker, and YPLS. So there!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 10, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
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Anders the only way in is to participate in an obscure outing.
Well that makes him your patron saint
I mean he has to come on an obscure outing with the recently founded S.T.U.C.K. organization.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 10, 2012 - 12:22pm PT
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Kneewrecker is a great pitch. Did it years ago while in another incarnation of the STUCK SUCK SOCKS. Very much filled with gravel in places but for sure it's a gooder and a fine ending to Ghostdancing.
Big "Eddie Murphy" Mike's frothingly f$ck filled monologue must have rang out loud and proud thru the parking lot. Lol the poor children.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 10, 2012 - 12:30pm PT
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STUCK= so good! HAHAHA
Well, from the photo's on here Big Mike looks like a tall, skinny person so presumptuously he would be your full span specialist? Seems like a more prestigious position than the flounder, possibly more beneficial to the club as well!
Anyways i'm going climbing before it rains!!
Will try to think of more recommends for STUCK while sport climbing....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2012 - 01:09pm PT
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I must admit, wet dirty cracks are not really my thing.
Combined with the fact that i have very little chimney experience, and Luke wanted to leave half the gear in the truck, maybe i got a little frustrated.
Stuck is right! I barely got into the squeeze at the chockstone and had to grind literally to make progress.
I hope the little kids ears survived. "EARMUFFS!"
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 10, 2012 - 01:15pm PT
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Ya it would have been much easier without the slippery brown goo inside those steep hand jams. Aside from the not so flattering adjectives used to describe YPLS, it is a great and memorable climb, oozing or not.
Luke whee want pictures!!
Slickity Jim's Chat & Chew is calling me for brunch...
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MH2
climber
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Apr 10, 2012 - 02:19pm PT
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It's great to see the fun and funny continue. Thanks to all for recent contributions.
Having looked deeeep into Tall Skinny People from its new neighbor New Life, I couldn't really see the route. Ok, it is a chimney, but you'd have to be 20 feet tall to do some sections as chimney.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 10, 2012 - 05:56pm PT
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It's been almost an hour since Anders wrote...
Colon. (Found it last year...)
And not one of you Squamish trash has made any of the obvious jokes? I can't believe this.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 10, 2012 - 06:00pm PT
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From the sublime to the scatalogical in only an hour. I might have known it.
As for BK, I subscribe to Groucho Marx' maxim, and would never belong to any club that would have me for a member. That's the theory, anyway. The nice people living in Squamish put up with me on FOSC.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 10, 2012 - 06:51pm PT
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Well, let's see. There's Colon. There's the Butt Face. There's Colonoscopy. Hot Cherry Bendover. What other scatological treasures lie hidden at Squamish?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 10, 2012 - 06:52pm PT
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Exploring Uranus
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 10, 2012 - 08:35pm PT
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You guys are drifting, by the way.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Apr 10, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
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Just a quick question...does anyone know if Lost at Sea has had any repeats?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 10, 2012 - 11:22pm PT
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You guys are drifting, by the way.
Yeah, well, it's all Anders' fault. If he hadn't started talking about how he discovered his colon we wouldn't have...
Never mind. Here's something to get us back on the right trail.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 10, 2012 - 11:27pm PT
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No, Greg, I think it's a bit north of Lembert Dome.
Come on, identify this Squamish climb and I'll buy you a coffee and doughnut on your next visit to Seattle.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 10, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
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Ha! The sign of a good question is when people who pretend to be knowledgeable resort to "pointless question" to disguise their ignorance.
No latte for you!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 10, 2012 - 11:48pm PT
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Okay, just because you can't tell one featureless slab from another doesn't mean you're a total loser. Here's a chance to prove that you know at least something about Squamish...
No bullshit about pointless slabs this time. Show us that you know Squamish.
Edit: Jim, I live in Seattle. You ask for a "low-fat organic doughnut" at my local caffeine & sugar joint and they'll throw you out the door.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Apr 10, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
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Hey Ghost! Thanks for the positive words about CC. I think it would have seen more traffic with a different name. Hopefully it stays clean.
Good to read that some of you guys were up on YPLS. I was surprised to hear it was wet--bone dry in the fall. Glenn and I were alternating leads, and the squeeze was my turn. Glenn could have led it just as well, and likely faster too. Looking forward to seeing some pix, esp of Big Mike in extremis.
The shots of Europa/CC were great, thanks for that.
I like the name SOCK for your group. You could use the classic old 'Laugh In' line of "Sock it to me!" as your motto. Blank stares all around..... Perhaps since a little French technique was noted, Le SOCK would be better. Or the Dr. Zeuss approach: Yank on Mank Club.
Just kiddin'.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 10, 2012 - 11:55pm PT
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I think that first pic. is that tough little bluff route, off to the right of short people. I think my chances are 1 in 10.
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Pakdong
climber
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Apr 10, 2012 - 11:55pm PT
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sunblessed
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 11, 2012 - 12:00am PT
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Its that dank crack up in the valley of sh#t piled higher. now cough up that latte
Hmmm. The judges are offering mixed opinions on that answer, but as the Senior Judge, I'll cast my deciding vote (with some reservations) in your favor. Show up at Top Pot Doughnuts on 5th just North of Lenora tomorrow morning, and the latte is yours.
Or, since a real Seattle coffee would probably put you in hospital, you could accept the alternate prize of a guided trip to a nearby crag that is in absolutely no danger of having a gondola built within 50 km.
We've got about a dozen routes on this thing so far. Maybe some of you Squamish freaks should come down and see what non-urban climbing is about.
Edit: No, Hamish, that slab is not in the Little Smoke Bluffs. In fact it's nowhere near the Smoke Bluffs.
Double Edit: Pakdong is wrong, too. Though not as wrong as Mr. Fraser
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 11, 2012 - 12:12am PT
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will guns be involved?
I think we've solved the guns problem. But for a while there, the most exciting part of climbing on that crag was the descent through Redneckville. I've actually got no problem with guns. My problem is when rednecks with guns get really drunk and roar around in their ORVs blasting everything in sight.
Not that they weren't nice guys. Some of them were even curious about what we were doing "up there." Still, it was a bit weird to have to transition a war zone on our way home from a day of climbing.
But, as I said, I think the gun problem has been resolved and even a Canadian could visit that wall without having a panic attack.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Apr 11, 2012 - 12:15am PT
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Back on the chimney thing, I spent at least 45 minutes crammed into that chimney on Millennium Falcon just below Bellygood last fall. Unfortunately for me, the guy I was climbing with failed to mention the guidebook saying, 'if you enter the chimney, you will have a very hard time getting out.'
That was fun. Not. Still got the onsight though......
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 11, 2012 - 12:26am PT
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First pic: ?????
Second pic is The Zip
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 11, 2012 - 01:12am PT
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next question, before I accept: Is that really granite or is it decomposing sandstone masquerading as the cookie cliff?
No, it's the real thing. Granite as good as granite gets. Scale is roughly similar to the Upper Town Wall at Index -- routes up to five pitches -- and actually closer to Seattle than Index is. It has enough of an approach to keep the hordes away, but nothing really serious. 20 minutes driving a good logging road, and a 45 minute hike.
The rock is astoundingly good, and the potential for more high-quality routes is... well, let me just say that the potential is so amazing that I wish I were three or four decades younger. I'll start a new thread about it, but it really is an incredible crag.
We thought we'd lost it a couple of years ago when DNR shut down access due to watershed damage caused by the ORV crowd, but the rest of the outdoor community, including climbers, worked with the govt and the logging company that has the rights below the wall, and for once common sense won the day. Which is to say that the one group that was doing the damage {the off-roaders) have been banned, while others have regained access.
So set aside some days in August or September, and we'll take you in.
Or, if that's too real, come down tomorrow morning and I'll buy you a doughnut and a coffee.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 11, 2012 - 01:20am PT
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Time to pack it in for the night, but I'll leave you with one more shot of the wall we've been playing on for the last few years. Click on the pic, and blow it up, and you'll see our friend Shanon pretty much dead center.
It's not the Himalaya, but it's a bit less of an urban experience than Squamish. Some of you ought to come down and check it out.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 11, 2012 - 02:02am PT
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-Radical looking crag you got down there mr ghost!
HM or Nails; Did you guys swing leads on YPLS FREEclimbing it or was there aid involve? What did you guys put in for pro @ the wide before the squeeze??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2012 - 02:19am PT
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Spat me out indeed.
Ghost- not sure about the first one either, but the second one looks alot like, "Just Blessed" in the Valley of shadi? I have never ventured in there but that one has been on my ticklist for a long time.
Next hot spell I'm gonna go check it out. I thought of it immediatly but Bruce reminded me of the name.
Your new crag looks amazing indeed. I intend to get to Index this summer so perhaps a little side trip?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 11, 2012 - 02:35am PT
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YPLS was essentially Hamie's climb. He did the hardest stuff. The name was his idea, too.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 11, 2012 - 02:36am PT
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The first pic looks like slab? Maybe something on the apron? Banana Peel? (Guess)
Cool YPLS Pic Luke! The first one i've ever seen, guess it's not obscure anymore. Did you guys all
climb it right shoulder in??
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 11, 2012 - 10:10am PT
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That pic Ryan is of the first pitch flaring chimney. Yes right shoulder in is the way. You get a bomber chicken wing goin on that way with features to grab with your left. Above that in the pic you can see the corner crack which feels about 10b ish. It was really hard to climb due to brown wet slime, early season wetness.
The second pitch chimney is the real business IMO. We were left shoulder in for the crux getting up to and over the first chockstone. Bruce's bolt protects you until you can clip the dangling tat looped around the chockstone.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 11, 2012 - 10:46am PT
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Ghost- not sure about the first one either, but the second one looks alot like, "Just Blessed" in the Valley of shadi?
Yes, second one was Just Blessed in Shaddai. First one was Sunshine Breakfast, up in the Solarium (a route that should be more popular than it apparently is).
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 11, 2012 - 01:29pm PT
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Here's Tricouni's account of the first ascent, in autumn 1965. Published in the B.C. Mountaineer in September 1966.
Unlike most cities, Vancouver is fortunate in having within easy reach a huge chunk of steep, firm rock - the Chief. Inevitably, rock climbing is growing at an accelerating pace, and will become increasingly more important in the life of the BCMC and its members.
Rock climbing at Squamish is different from most other climbing areas. Lack of holds and cracks limit the possible route lines and chimneys are common; face-climbing is rare. Surprisingly enough, only about twenty of the sixty or so routes in the area are predominantly artificial aid. The rest range from easy class 4 to downright desperate upper fifth class. Climbing on the Chief looks dangerous, but is every bit as safe as ordinary mountaineering. Objective hazards such as rock fall and weather are greatly reduced; subjective dangers such as overconfidence can be lessened through proper technique and an appreciation of one's limits. Falls are not unknown, but only one accident has led to hospitalization, and that happened on a boulder, twenty feet off the ground.
A recent "Summit" article to the contrary, most climbing around Squamish is done by local climbers. Indeed, Vancouver climbers have established almost all of the many fine medium-length routes, many of which have free climbing of a high order. One of the more difficult and spectacular of these is the Yosemite Pinnacle (left side) Route, first climbed in October by Mavis McCuaig, Hamish Mutch and myself. This is not a pinnacle in the usual sense of the word, but rather a huge, detached flake lying against the wall. There are a number of these on the Chief; this one is located just left of the popular South Gully.
We hadn't really expected the climb to be very difficult. However...a short rope toss led to the base of the left side of the flake. Hamish, just back from the endless miles of Yosemite cracks, led sixty feet of strenuous chimney and jam crack (class 5.7) to reach a good belay tree. I joined him, sweating, then led the only class six pitch on the climb; fifty feet of straightforward nailing. Mavis joined Hamish, who moved up to my rather dubious belay. The next pitch looked really bad. After ascertaining that it would go, we rappelled out (it was getting late), leaving our ropes behind.
Next day found us prussiking up the ropes to our respective stations. The next lead was classical: a ten inch wide jam-crack shimney affair, overhanging more than enough. Hamish somehow moaned and groaned and struggled his way up the first twenty feet of the squeeze-chimney (class 5.8) and then, gasping like a fish out of water, pulled himself onto the first chockstone. After forty feet, slightly easier (but not much), we heard his welcome "off belay". With a liberal expenditure of energy I managed to claw my way to Hamish's belay. He was standing on a chockstone deep in the chimney, anchored to a little tree that must have had a hard life, for it can never have seen the sun.
My lead went horizontally out to the edge of the chimney, then up over an awkward (5.7) chockstone onto the first decent ledge on the climb. The others soon joined me, glad to be out of the confines of the vertiginous chimney. It was in the bag now; we romped up the fifth and last lead, a 5.4 jam crack, to the top of the pinnacle.
There was enough comfortable room on top for all three of us - a bit of a surprise. We rested awhile, counting the inevitable tourists who stopped for a look, and waving to friends on the road. Then the descent; we untangled the ropes and made several long rappels down the chimney to the forests below. We coiled the ropes, sorted hardware, and walked slowly to the car, well pleased with our first ascent.
It was then probably as difficult a free climb as any in Canada, and in the mid 5.10 range - notwithstanding the "5.8" grade.
Lassooing the chockstone was good fun, and consistent with the rope throw on the first pitch. I don't know if Hamie lassooed it, though. Would a #5 or #6 fit at the bottom of the squeeze, as an alternative to the bolt?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2012 - 02:25pm PT
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MH- No. We had my 5 and Luke used it to aid through the flare on the first pitch but it is way too small to be of any use off the belay on the second pitch. Luke was able to get some small gear in the flakes before the bolt, but you would need a big bro to avoid it. Hamish really led that with no pro? BOLD! You can't even get in the thing until the chockstone.
Bruce- The worst part was the jam crack before your new anchor. It was still quite muddy. Did you put a new anchor on top of Yosemite Pinnacle? We stopped at the Doug Fir.
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MH2
climber
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Apr 11, 2012 - 02:41pm PT
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Thanks for the YPLS FA account.
I still don't recognize Ghost's picture of Sunshine Breakfast. I've done the climb a couple times. He may be showing us the direct finish.
In case a few people think the climb actually looks like Ghost's picture, here's the
ugly truth.
Sunshine Breakfast begins with a shoulder-eating wide crack in darkness and damp.
Next comes a weird cleft.
I tried to warn these people away. We didn't see them again.
The other pitches are kinda nice.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2012 - 03:11pm PT
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Cool. I actually wondering if you had placed an anchor at the top of the pinnacle? Looked like from the tree there was another 10 feet or so to the top.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2012 - 03:30pm PT
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Thanks.
Tantalus Crack Ya, gotta get on that one too. Looks a little stiff for the grade, and requires some big gear also?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
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No. Was just curious. All you had to do was say yes. :)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 11, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
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Mike I thought about nuking the big cedar at the top and replacing it with a nice shiny bunch of chain, but then I thought of Anders and..... I just couldn't do it.
Hmm, is that sarcasm, or a disciple, speaking?
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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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Apr 11, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
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Ghost - I'm gonna have to send some of my boys over to keep you from talkin' too much!
:)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
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Crappy cell photo of Luke gaining the chockstone.
Luke was generous enough to hand me a FA the other day at Respiration Rock.
I got my first dirt in my eyes, shoes and other orifices ground up cleaning experience. Luke had allready cleaned the moss and dirt off this one but then had to push back the top of the crag.
Sandra's Dirty Rope 5.9
Aislinn again on Make it Monkey 10+
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MH2
climber
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Apr 11, 2012 - 08:33pm PT
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WOW!!
A cameo from Darryl Cramer.
And grrreat pics, Big Mike. They have the feel of climbs.
edit
Tantalus Crack does not require big gear. Not big modern gear, that is. My first gear in the wide crack was a nut, actually place in the back of and to the left of the main crack. My biggest piece was a #4 Friend(tm) bought around 1982. I don't think there was a placement for it, though.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 11, 2012 - 09:42pm PT
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All those who are curious or have a strong opinion on the YPLS bolt should go up there and climb it. Even thought you may have climbed it years back, try climbing it in it's current state. I personally was a fan of both the bolt and dangling chockstone tat. It gets pretty desperate between the bolt and the chockstone. Falling at that point without the bolt would be gnarly and potentially grievious to the belayer since you have gear stuffed into uninspiring wedged blocks right above the belay.
Go have a crack at it and report back.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 11, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
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While "modern big gear" may not be needed on Tantalus crack
If you own some u might as well take it, after all we are living &
climbing in modern times. I had a 5 & a 6 camalot & was quite
happy to keep bumping them along rather than trying to wank
some small sh1t in the back, don't think I had a 4?? Bring some
webbing for the horn up top as well, it's a bit of a scene up there
With a whole rats nest of old tat that was looking a little dated, I
Left a dyneema there but we all know those things biodegrade in
about 12 months anyways!
What ever happened to the local company
"on sight" I had some of their slings when I first started climbing &
They were awesome??
Cool Photos everyone! Respirator rock is lookin buffed!
Gonna have to get on YPLS before the cedar/mud reclamation, let me
Know if STUCK is gonna go for the redpoint! I can supply the big bros! In one of MH2's photos
It looks like there's a nice face crack/flake right of YPLS, anyone know
Anything about it? Bruce?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 11, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
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WOW!! A cameo from Darryl Cramer.
He posts here once or twice a year, but this place would be better if he posted more often. Well, unless it's more death threats for me. But he has seen that crag I posted pictures of, and climbed at least one of the routes, so it'd be nice to hear his opinion.
Cilley Dick called one of the pitches up there "The best face climbing pitch in Washington." Since it was 12b, there's no way I can back up his opinion, but Darryl might be able to comment.
But it ain't Squamish, so apologies for the drift.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 11, 2012 - 11:47pm PT
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Back on the thread of Squamish ass names, don't forget
Shaved Bum
Baby Bum
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 11, 2012 - 11:49pm PT
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As for Squamish esoterica club you should require an ascent of "You're a Sick Puppy Charlie Brown" to qualify.
How many repeats has that had Bruce? None?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 12, 2012 - 02:25am PT
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Luke, Mike: Did you guys wear helmets through the squeeze?
It's certainly a thrash getting started on the squeeze, and to within lasso range of the chockstone. But it doesn't seem the sort of place you'd fall out of. That's much too lively a verb for what would happen, which is more like oozing or slithering down. Yes, in theory you could fall on your belayer, but the reality probably wouldn't be nearly so dramatic. An alternative would be to belay about 12 m below the bolt belay that BK put in, in place of the good down-hanging cedar. There's a reasonable stance there. Climb the corner, place some gear at its top, then keep going into the squeeze. Overall, the first pitch would be a bit shorter, the second a bit longer. That way two if not all three of the bolts could be removed.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Apr 12, 2012 - 02:28am PT
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"The name was his [Hamie's] too."
No, I can't take credit for that. The name came from Jim Baldwin, who had spent a ton of time in the Valley. It refers to a 'Yosemite-type-pinnacle', which is not really a pinnacle at all, but an exfoliation flake which is separated on both sides, but still lays against the face. The Split Pillar is a perfect example. Reed, Rixon's, Slab Happy etc are examples from Yos. I think it's a great name, as it reminds me of our early and current connections with the mother ship. What would they do, or not do in the Valley was always a major consideration. Good call, Jim.
They do have some normal pinnacles down there. Here is a pic of 15/16 year old Phil Bircheff doing the first of the four raps off Phantom Pinnacle, a great route, and a real pinnacle. A technical miscalculation here almost cost me big time.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Apr 12, 2012 - 03:13am PT
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Everyone has doubtless had their fill of YPLS by now, but.....
If I have read all of the posts correctly, I believe that at the crux pitch there is now:
.....a 2 bolt station
.....a protection bolt
.....a fixed pin
.....a fixed sling, which is often used for aid, as well as pro.
At the time of the FA obviously none of that stuff was there. We may have slung a tree, but I don't recall one. We didn't place any pins, or clip any bolts, and we definitely didn't hang around lassooing chockstones and using them for aid. I don't think the lead was bold. Off-widths, chimneys and squeezes were commonplace, and I suppose we were quite good at them. Perhaps the fact that my g/f was watching, and eager for a FA, helped me along.
In Don Whillans' recent biography, The Villain, his biographer tells the story of his first visit to Yos in 1966, aged 33. Whillans was unfit and overweight, but only a few years before had been one of the best mountaineers and rockclimbers in the world. His specialty was overhanging fist jams on gritstone. He found Pharoah's Beard, an average 300' 5.8 layback crack/chimney climb to be "desperate", because he was not used to that type of wide crack.
Here is a pic of Jim Bridwell climbing a feature quite similar to YPLS. It's a flared bomb-bay chimney, which narrows to a squeeze, at about 5.8
with not a lot of gear. Fairly typical of the time.
Please chop the bolt, and remove the manky old sling. The fixed pin should compensate for any tree which we may have used. Thanks.
EDIT. 7.48 am. Since I no longer climb at Sq, it is not really appropriate for a cranky old man [or two] to enforce/interpret the rules. If the majority feels a bolt is now necessary, so be it. However the pin, and esp the sling should go. That was then, and this is now. We had our fun, now it's your turn.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2012 - 02:47pm PT
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MH- No Helmets. Since both Luke and I typically climb without them we forgot them at home that day. I did think about grabbing it before I left the house but then forgot in my rush. Relic did though, it got stuck at one point and he had to do the moves with his head hanging out of the gash.
You could definetly fall on your belayer. We couldn't even really get into the squeeze until after the chockstone. We were using the edges and the wall and foot in the squeeze. I fell three times (on tr) before getting into the beast.
You could move the belay down, but it breaks up the pitches quite nicely and Bruce did a good job making a nice stance on the cedar. Luke got a piece in some suspect flakes before the bolt and swore he wouldn't use it but when he got there the inevitable happened.
If I have read all of the posts correctly, I believe that at the crux pitch there is now:
.....a 2 bolt station
.....a protection bolt
.....a fixed pin
.....a fixed sling, which is often used for aid, as well as pro.
Hamie- Almost. The fixed pin is on the first pitch at the top of the flare after you first get established on the pinnacle. Before the hand jamming.
If you look at the picture again, the first piece is a cam stuffed behind a suspect flake, then the bolt, then the tat on the chockstone. The word "often" might be a little out of place. I am pretty sure we were the first party on this climb in years.
Unlike in your day Off-widths or Awful-widths as Tami would say are no longer commonplace. There are people who specialize in them though, and I suspect that some stiff mountain boots would help in the squeeze. Luke certainly seemed to like his approach shoes.
You may not have thought your lead was bold sir, but I would have been shi$$ing my pants in your position.
As to the fixed pro, it will have to wait until STUCK goes back for the redpoint. Hopefully with BK and Ryan D, to bring the Big Bros, and after a nice hot spell to dry it out.
Thanks for the pics! The one of Bridwell is awesome!
BK- I think you are right! A nice stiff mountain boot would jam in there nice. Maybe I will have to get a pair of camp 4's like Luke's for that pitch.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2012 - 03:32pm PT
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Mh2- Thanks for the compliment. :) I always enjoy your pictures also.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 12, 2012 - 04:35pm PT
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If I'm not mistaken, Hamie's photo is of the FA of Church Bowl Tree, in December 1965. Hopefully not damaged or buried by the recent Bishop's Terrace rockfalls.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 12, 2012 - 04:58pm PT
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Please don't bring hockey into the climbing thread!
Cool photos again everyone! Thanks for sharing!
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Apr 13, 2012 - 12:36am PT
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Apart from secret passwords, handshakes and decoder rings, applicants should have to have climbed at least seven out a series of select climbs, including
Any two of the gullies.
Sunshine Chimneys.
Crap Crags.
Kneewrecker Chimney.
Yosemite Pinnacle, Left Side.
The Flake.
Slab Alley.
North North Arete.
Colon.
also: you forgot Satans Slit
Done 'em all with the exception of Kneewrecker!
BWAHAHAHAHAHA !!! (maniacal laughter emanating from deep within the coastal rainforest)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2012 - 01:34am PT
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Kris when did you do ypls? Recently? How did you find the pro?
Tami- You said you climbed ypls too. Was it with Peter? Did you free it?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2012 - 02:46am PT
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YPLS is the Awful width Tami. Tantalus is the right side. Which looks AWESOME!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 13, 2012 - 09:36am PT
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YPLS is the Awful width Tami. Tantalus is the right side.
Don't worry Tami, Mike's brain got rattled inside the chimney. Put down the pipe Mike. YPLS is not an off-width. I think you're getting old MR. Albatross. I mean you were just on it a few days ago!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 13, 2012 - 10:38am PT
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Those things are made for the desert
I used one at Squamish once. The Green size. Bought it for a specific move on a specific climb that I had high hopes for. It did its job, allowing me to aid through one of those wide crumbling seam things that are too shallow to be called cracks. Felt like an A5 timebomb, but it held my weight long enough to get me to the next placement.
The climb didn't live up to my hopes, though, and has probably long since returned to obscurity. And the green BigBro was returned to the closet never to be used again.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2012 - 02:21pm PT
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Guess I must be confused as to the meaning of off-width. I allways thought it was bigger than hands and smaller than you can squeeze yourself into. Which I guess makes YPLS a chimney. At least we got another kick ass story out of it! :)
Bruce- Nice pics indeed! As to kicking my big bro protection out while trying to sling a chockstone on YPLS, doesn't sound very appealing.
So here's the question. If a big bro doesn't work and we chop the bolt and tat, will anyone climb it? Does it matter? Would you rather have a few repeat the FA experience or keep the climb clean with traffic? (Not that many would anyways but certainly more!)
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Apr 14, 2012 - 12:14am PT
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Kris when did you do ypls? Recently? How did you find the pro?
Nah, it was 8 or 9 years ago. Long before it was cleaned. I climbed it with Fern. She was always game for a thrashing adventure. We did Green Thumb together too.
YPLS was interesting because you couldn't see what was coming because of all of the cedar bushes growing out of the corner. You'd tunnel through one, then have 15 or 20 feet of visible corner before the next shrubbery. The squeeze part was HARD. Mossy, but dry, and you couldn't reach the cracks in the back for pro. For the life of me I couldn't figure out how to get myself into it. IIRC, eventually I laybacked the outside for 10 or 15 feet until I could grapple a chockstone into submission and squeeze into the wider part. One of the old guard later told me that they fit in better wearing a swami instead of a bulky harness with all kinds of crap hanging off the back and a big knot in the front. It seemed tighter than the Harding Slot to me.
K
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MH2
climber
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Apr 14, 2012 - 12:36am PT
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Whew!
Yes, Peter Haan has also recommended going back to a swami belt for wide cracks so as not to have gear loops and to be able to slide the tie-in knot around to the side.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 14, 2012 - 01:18am PT
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Ya it is tight squeezing into it to begin with. My helmet got in the way so badly that I thought of either using a helmet jam, or hucking it off the cliff.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2012 - 01:40am PT
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Thanks Kris! Would you rather do it that way? Or clean like it is now?
Ya, my knot got stuck. It was a B$%ch getting into and off the chockstone.
Time to play, "What climb is this?"
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Apr 14, 2012 - 10:15am PT
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Yes, harnesses etc would make it more difficult. We tied in directly with the rope, as swamis were still in the "Whatever will they think of next?" category.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 14, 2012 - 11:59am PT
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big mike that looks like something near skulduggery at bughouse hts
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
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Not quite Oplopanax you got the area but not the crag.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2012 - 12:11pm PT
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Hamie- Did you guys leave a piece of goldline on the tree at the top of YPLS for an anchor? If so it's still there. Luke has pics.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 14, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
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Hamie- Did you guys leave a piece of goldline on the tree at the top of YPLS for an anchor? If so it's still there. Luke has pics.
That doesn't sound like us, unless we were desperate (why cut a good rope?). H might remember differently. We tended to use 1" tubular nylon or 1/4" laid nylon rope for rap slings.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 14, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
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Something @ funarama, don't know any of the names there though
Edit: or lumberland
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2012 - 12:10am PT
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Ryan D gets the crag.. surprised that the local specter hasn't caught on yet.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 15, 2012 - 12:28am PT
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Smart guy.
Bit of an understatement, that.
Ryan D gets the crag.. surprised that the local specter hasn't caught on yet.
Hmmm. I know we cleaned and climbed a bunch of stuff on what is now called Funorama, but I don't remember much detail. It was at a time when anybody who was willing to spend twenty minutes pushing through a bit of bush could discover a new crag in the Bluffs, and we had a lot of fun. But Funorama was kind of at the end of that period and I think we were all burning out. I remember working on something at the right-hand end with Dave Jones. And I think something at the left end -- probably also with DJ. And although I couldn't swear to it in court, I am certain that Raymond Parker would have been just as involved. And maybe Dick Mitten.
goes to the fridge for another glass of stout --
Ah. One thing I think I remember, is that the climb at the left end had a really scary exit move (for its grade), until you learned that there was a secret hold.
Do I win a prize?
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 15, 2012 - 12:41am PT
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I'd trade my left nut for new length of two inch tubular swami
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2012 - 01:45am PT
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Do I win a prize?
Sure, I'll buy you a rail ale at the Howe Sound, lemme know when.
It's the right one you did with Dave Jones. First Class 5.8 according to KM.
I did it the other day for the first time and found it to be no slouch! Fun route.
Oh ya thanks for the beta.. heard that Funarama had an interesting top-out.
Edit Or whatever other beer you might choose.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 15, 2012 - 02:27am PT
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Hey that ones pretty fun, First class eh? Tough to know the names with all the new routes up there.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Apr 15, 2012 - 02:31am PT
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Just happened to be up there today revisiting the past. Heavy did a stellar job creating a klettergarden there, even bumped into a few characters from the Bellingham climbing community.
Funarama was my first new route and seems to be still popular. I would have put a bolt at the top spicy section, but back then I was too poor to afford such luxuries and fiddling RPs seemed to work.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2012 - 02:46am PT
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Apparently the spicy section is what makes the climb according to Luke and Kyle.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 15, 2012 - 03:44am PT
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Thanks Big Mike!
Spice is nice.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 15, 2012 - 09:32pm PT
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Fun o Rama kicks butt, quality cracks and stellar friction, and low angle so I don't get scared
Far across the American boarder I pull out my sleeping bag and down jacket out of my
compression sack for the first time since cannabis wall and what do I find in my breast pocket, two and a half doobies :p.
Bump for squamish weed in Cali, let's hope BMACD does tip off the park rangers. He already tried to set me up on indica ledge, I spotted some RCMP up there patrolling the area, so I fled the country.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 15, 2012 - 11:57pm PT
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Holy snapping arseholes, Batman, there's thirty-seven routes up there now! On a cliff that we figured was crowded with half a dozen.
F*#k. How can anyone complain about a gondola up from the gravel pit when there are almost forty climbs on a crag as tiny as funorama? Sounds like a great place to go with a hundred or so of your closest climbing buddies for a slice of the Squamish Climbing Experience. If you don't have the right gear for whatever climb you're on, just reach a foot or two to the right or left and snag something from the guy who's climbing beside you.
Just to put this in perspective, Mari and I went out today to a crag we started developing down here (we live in Seattle now) a couple of years ago. It's three times as high and ten times as long as funorama, and it's now got maybe a dozen routes. All stellar. We try to get people to join the fun, but 95% of them just get in line for the routes on the Index Lower Town Wall, and the 5% that are willing to look beyond that have so much undeveloped rock to play on that we hardly ever see each other.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 16, 2012 - 08:57am PT
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Funarama is the name of a strip club in Vegas Rolf, you're busted.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 16, 2012 - 09:58am PT
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Hey, Dean is writing in. Now we're talking; he's got some good stories.
I was driving through some town in central california about 40 years ago when I spotted these two tall guys hopping a fence and walking quickly to their car. They were pretty wet.
It was Ed Spat and D.H.; it was so hot they had to take a break from driving and poach a dip in some hotel's pool. Frost-Backs, so funny. Valley-ho after that.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 16, 2012 - 10:27am PT
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Well he's been here and done that in Squampton. Freeway, North walls; massive effort from those tall guys with the lycra.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 16, 2012 - 10:59am PT
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Well he's been here and done that in Squampton. Freeway, North walls; massive effort from those tall guys with the lycra.
When they finished The Calling, I asked if they would write something for the Canadian Alpine Journal. Which they did. And which I ran as one of the lead stories for the year.
John Howe gave me serious sh#t for that. How could I possibly have given major space to some stupid climbs on the North Wall and ignored the fact that the real future of Squamish climbing was taking place on Pet Wall.
As to their fashion sense, what can you say? Fortunately the CAJ in those days was black & white, and the only pictures they had were poor-quality 4 x 5 inch prints. So the lycra didn't show up all that well.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 16, 2012 - 11:05am PT
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Pet Wall; classic. You mean the crag where the first ascensionists got the routes wired on top rope, then rap-bolted the pitches with good size runouts and quality gear placements? Don't get me wrong, those routes were great...tough on the body and on the mind. Funny thing is that as time went on and the pioneers aged, all these extra bolts started showing up on the routes. And that was well after the climbs had seen multiple on-sight flashes. Strange but true.
I suppose I need to make it VERY clear that I'm not slagging anyone; these guys are all my friends and I have the utmost respect for all of them.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 16, 2012 - 11:22am PT
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John was just pissed about the lycra. He's a logger at heart.
Yeah, I know. He got caught up in the fun at Pet Wall, and thought it deserved more love. But I never believed his heart was in it. I can remember one trip into Mt Sir Frances Drake with Tami, Greg Foweraker and Don Serl. From high up there we were looking down into the next valley at something John had done the year before, and all we could do was bow down in admiration. He and Blake Robinson had crashed in from beach, climbed the North Buttress on Needle Peak, and then fought their way back out again. That has to be one of the gnarliest things ever done by a Squamish climber, and yet he ragged on me for not seeing the importance of Pet Wall.
Look at this thing, and imagine the guy who climbed it telling me that the develpments at Pet Wall were more significant than the developments on the North wall.
Edit: I think the vertical gain on the buttress is over 4,000 ft, and what you can't see in the picture is the heinous approach. We got a perfect view of it from the helicopter on the way in, and it did not look like fun. Well, maybe fun in the sense of "it don't have to be fun, to be fun," but it was pure coastal jungle.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 16, 2012 - 11:47am PT
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Would be cool to hear about the evolution of Pet Wall, how it changed from crazy run out RP wiggle battles into what it is today. Who got pissed off? Fist fights? Loggers vs. Lycra?
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 16, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
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That Drake buttress is mind blowing. Where's all the John Howe photos and stories of the epic sh#t he has done.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2012 - 04:06am PT
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ooohhh. Bump for that Perry! and Dean Hart welcome sir, we welcome stories you might want to share.
Saw someone on Sixty-Nine 13b/c the other day at Murrin
He danced up the thing it was awesome.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 17, 2012 - 10:38am PT
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I recall climbing the grand with Dean one hot summer day, several generations ago. We made it to the top of the pillar and we were melting from the heat. Too hot to continue,sweating whatever fluid might have been left in us, we just had to get out of the sun. Unfortunately we only had one rope.
Dean, the big guy with the big brain, figures he'll rap down the single line to the base of the pillar, placing the odd cam as he goes. And I do mean odd as in sparse; we wouldn't have had many in that size range. Then I can downclimb the pitch, on belay, yanking out the gear on my way by. Oh ya, sounds exciting, especially in the 38 degree heatwave.
In those days there were still two terrible quarter inch bolts about half way up the pitch. Unfortunately they were about 6 or 8 feet apart. My idea was to tie them together and get Dean to test the hell out of them from down at the belay, while I was clipped to some real gear, beside the bolts. If Dean couldn't bust them, that would be my rap anchor.
Couple of rocket-scientists up there, melting away.
That was so long ago I can't remember which option we went with but both of us are here, so something worked.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 17, 2012 - 12:05pm PT
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Somewhere under the ghetto-blaster and the hilti are some xxl quads; somebody get that man a 29er.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Apr 17, 2012 - 12:07pm PT
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Ya get used to it Bruce. Make sure they're not pushed up too close to your face for the fogging aspect. As for the chalk dust and such, I almost always wear a ball cap to keep the glare off the glasses. Without it, all you notice is the dust specks on your lenses. I even wear one of those stretchy little runners ball caps under my helmet when it's sunny to keep the glare down.
Wait a minute..... You mean to say that if I finally get the Lasik surgery that I'll be climbing three letter grades harder? Sign me up!
K
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 17, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
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Dean, one thing I've always wondered about. How is it that you and Randy always managed to find routes that required massive spans to do the moves?
Good question Bruce. Dean, respectfully- how in the hell do you do True Love at Crag X???
Is it really a reach move?? Such a nice climb but that crux is Reach-diculous!
Cool Photo Mike, that's Ben, same fella i posted a pic of on Skydancing a ways back, he pisses up all types of everything.
Speaking of Pet wall, when i was there the other day, lowering off No Name Road, i noticed that someone was cleaning out the corner & face to the right, i looked in my book & i think it's called "beers are not enough". FA credit was to one Bruce Kay, maybe there is a story about that one someone here would like to tell??
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 17, 2012 - 01:00pm PT
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It was a Kon Kraft FA at A2 or something.
In case anyone is interested, I re-connected with Konrad a year or so ago. He's living in Bellingham these days. Had some major heart surgery, but was recovering when I last talked to him.
He sometimes lurks here, so anyone who remembers him can give a shout out.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 17, 2012 - 02:40pm PT
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You're right, I'll cool it on the 29er talk. Climbing thread, sorry.
65% of (adventurist) climbers will eventually switch to mountain biking, and once they have several years under their belts, they'll get one with 29" wheels.
That's my take on it.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 17, 2012 - 02:46pm PT
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65% of climbers will eventually switch to mountain biking, and once they have several years under their belts, they'll get one with 29" wheels.
That may be true, but what you're forgetting is that as those climbers-turned-mountain-bikers age, they exhibit two traits:
1) Fear of shattering their aged and increasingly fragile bodies in the crashes that used to seem like no big deal, which leads them to switch back to climbing. And then...
2) Finding out that climbing is scarier than it used to be, and deciding to spend most of their climbing time either on a top-rope or, better still, on Supertopo.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 17, 2012 - 02:49pm PT
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Is that Alaska Highway, the first photo Dean? Would be cool to hear some stories of doing that wall. I think some of the most amazing pitches in Squamish are on the Northern Lights. Got any pics of the unduro layback corner on it? That thing is a beauty.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 17, 2012 - 03:58pm PT
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I'm going with Public Image
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
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Super toprope
ROFLMAO! (Rolling on the the floor laughing my ass off)
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Apr 17, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
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Public Image
From National Geographic
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2012 - 04:08pm PT
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Cool pics Dean!
Thanks for that Hoser.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 17, 2012 - 04:15pm PT
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Wow, that's one of the best pics. I've seen.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2012 - 04:35pm PT
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A close up of Ben on Sixty-Nine for Ryand
Agreed. The Public Image shot is stunning
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 17, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
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That is such a great pic. You don't see many of Public Image around, cuz everyone is too scared to do it. More North Wall climb pics and stories please.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2012 - 04:51pm PT
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What's that sick looking flake to the left of it? Not Visionquest is it?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 17, 2012 - 10:52pm PT
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I was going to post some stupid sh#t about the Smoke Bluffs, but when I saw the Public Image photo I decided to just turn around and crawl out through the space under the door.
Kon and I wandered out onto Astro Ledge one day to see what all the North Wall fuss was about. Pretty much peed my pants in fear looking up at those climbs, and scurried back home.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 17, 2012 - 11:02pm PT
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That Public image shot is rad! Heard it has been recleaned in the past year or so as well as the anchors replaced.
Funny story re: Beers are not enough Bruce, nothing so fun as smearing mud in the rain. Pretty cool that was the first line on the wall, looking forward to climbing it in its new state.
Hamish, is it true that all those Pet wall classics were rap bolted? I have always wondered about the history of that cliff as it is probably my favorite single pitch crag around & always assumed that based on the distance between bolts on many of the sport climbs that they were done ground up. Must have been some serious work to develop that place, anyone have any "before" photos of pet wall???
Thanks for the tales & pics everyone!
Ps I used to mountain bike for years, it was fun as hell but definitely not a dirtbag sport! Bikes are money pits! One summer about 7 or 8 yrs ago while my rear shock was away on warranty I was lucky enough to get into climbing, long story short I did not get my shock back for almost 3 months at which point The bike park was closed & i realized that I hadn't spent a cent on broken climbing gear, sold my bike & that was it. Cant say i miss it too much, however I must confess that with the golden age of Squamish trail building happening right now it would be fun to have a x-country bike to work the cardio & adrenaline on rainy days, can't see it ever replacing climbing though. Climbing is just so......hard. 29" rims sound fun....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
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That's funny Ryand. I was a mountain biker at first too. My girlfriend at the time wanted me to go climbing with her, and took me in sneakers which sucked.
Then after realizing a hard tail was not as much fun in the park as well as breaking tons of expensive parts i gave into the darkside also and never looked back. I've got snowboarding and sledding to get my speed fix on.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 17, 2012 - 11:31pm PT
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Public Image - full disclosure :
Randy Atkinson and myself rap bolted the upper chimney stations and the overhanging off width pitch protection by hand drilling after taking all necessary safety measures at Indica Point. It was the wildest first descent I have ever done. Climbed the North North Arete then 3 late afternoon raps from Indica Point down to land on Astro ledge in the dark with no headlamps. My drill was a home made unit my grandfather created on the lathe in his garage for me. It used two set screws to hold a modified metal drilling bit in place. I still have the manky thing. Then they did the first ascent without me. I was fine with not having to go back and climb it as I knew first hand how totally terrifying and heinously exposed the overhanging off width pitch was.
Kill me now for being a rap bolter...
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MH2
climber
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Apr 17, 2012 - 11:33pm PT
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That Public Image picture is scary. No swami or knee pads for that guy. His right arm seems to be fully extended inside the crack but I can't quite see what its doing.
Beers Are Not Enough is a gem. Of the dozens of times I'd been to Pet Wall it never crossed my mind but last year I actually saw it, as if for the first time, and there it was in the guidebook, too!
The start was hard.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 17, 2012 - 11:42pm PT
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Rule #1-Never assume anything.Don't ask me how those routes were established; I wasn't in on any of them. They are World Class pitches in my opinion and I had some great experiences leading many of them.
Rule #2, unless you're a trustfunder, stay away from the bikepark. Who needs all those crowds anyway? World class stuff right here in Squampton, B.C.. And Goldbridge, Pemberton, Whistler(non-hill), North-Shore,Rossland, Nelson, and probably any other town in B.C. with a forest out the back. Best part about that sport.... you don't need the one big rock. Any old chunk of B.C. will do. Just add volunteer labour.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 17, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
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How many times did I belay you on the ultra run out No Name road Hamish?
It was one of your favourites.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 17, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
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Mucho. I'd actually lived on No Name Rd. and I think the Chief established one of the best face pitches in Squamish when he put that route together. Five Star.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 18, 2012 - 12:27am PT
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I agree, one of the best face climbs out there no name rd is, although I never had the chance to do it when it was a RP battle. A bit of everything on that one, long, perfect rock, beautiful top out- so classic!
Hamish, I would be so humbled if you could provide me a ticklist of 5 squamish climbs to do this summer that you would consider must-dos for the many aspiring hard man on this thread who had the misfortune of being born & brought into climbing during a time which being a pussy was the standard & accepted ethic- aka the supertoprope era. Grade & style irrelevant, just the 5 that you remember from BITD that you think are 5 stars. Yes, let the sandbagging begin. Much thanks in advance. Same goes for any of you Squamish OG's that have a top 5 that you think could teach the new guard a thing or two and would help us all harden up a bit!
Edit: Re: rule #1- I forgot that the only fair place to make assumptions around here is on the gondola thread! Thanks for keeping me in check. Assume = (make an)ASS (out of) U (and) ME. Due to mine & the many other assumptions happening there i need a break from that thread! This place is way more fun! Re: Rule #2, I did all kinds of mtn biking, seeing as I lived in Whis @ the time, the bike park was the easiest & most available drug for most days, not too busy back then either. If I had a trust fund I would still be there with 29" rims & 12" of travel on the front & back!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 18, 2012 - 12:37am PT
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Squamish Old Guys. I love it. Boy it sure happened fast. One minute you're living in a cave at the base of the Chief, still 6 years till you get to go to the bar with ALL the other climbers. Next minute you're cranking the woodstove up to 90 degrees and reading Squamish Old Guy on your laptop, wondering if you have enough stuff to make your kid's lunch in the morning. Crazy.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 18, 2012 - 12:51am PT
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Right side of the pillar is pretty classic. :)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 18, 2012 - 12:56am PT
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Hahaha Hamish! The acronym O.G. Stands for original gangster! If you are unaware of that term however then I suppose your definition will do, thanks for the laughs!
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 18, 2012 - 01:02am PT
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Sack it up for Merci Me bro
Bellygood in the rain without the chain
Hooking pitch on Humpty Dumpty
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 18, 2012 - 01:07am PT
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Ohhhh Agonal, definitely fell off that one. You are right Bruce, may be the best pitch down there. Thanks for the responses OG's!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2012 - 01:43am PT
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OG= Original Gangsters!!! Thanks for comin out!
edit I know ryand said it too.
Milk Run is sweet so is the Pillar (right) gotta do both in style this year. Agonal looks pretty awesome.
So does right wing! Looked down it last year after we did birds.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 18, 2012 - 09:07am PT
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How can you have a list of great Squamish must-dos that does not include a slab route?
I don't know which one you'd choose, but surely there should be one.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 18, 2012 - 09:23am PT
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More hardman to do list pitches Dean Hart's uber classic "Smell of ¥€¤ %$@#/() & "Alien £€¢ #@/$+ %".
Also Kettman & Hart's "Poltergeist ll"
Edited: for the children
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 18, 2012 - 09:40am PT
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Phew, so happy to see I'm still a kid. I knew that seemed way to fast.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 18, 2012 - 10:08am PT
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I meant the other Bruce.
I trust Squamish Bruce is about to pour some Special Kay into his bowl, or on the tram site, cause my coffee is perking and I hate to drink it alone. Surely you have a comment about that beautiful looking tram with the Atlantic (or Indian) Ocean and the mountains? That gondola rotates in circles as it moves, so everyone gets the view. There's some sweet engineering!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 18, 2012 - 11:09am PT
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Ya I guess. But if you keep everyone sidetracked with your outstanding humour, one day we'll look over and there will be a tram cruising up the slope.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 18, 2012 - 12:11pm PT
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I knew you were one of the smart ones.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 18, 2012 - 03:07pm PT
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First of all there's nothing Great about me, just a typical Squamite. Secondly, I'm trusting they'll want to tap the bike market and therefore get some hooks installed. Maybe a long shot but there are a lot of bikers out there, and more starting all the time.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2012 - 03:43pm PT
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I'm sure you'll know the kid who works there and he will look the other way when you roll your bike in :)
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 18, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
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Seek absolutes Hamish Fraser. Faith is for sheep.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 19, 2012 - 01:40am PT
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Awesome photos Dean(& pants)!! What pitch is that second one?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 19, 2012 - 01:46am PT
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Did fancy pants help with the ladies? Should I be wearing them to help me attract Squamish wimmin? Tami I need yur help...
We wanna see Public Image, fancy pants style! ---will settle for Tattered Tights. What the heck is that climb like anyways? All stranded way up there.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 19, 2012 - 02:30am PT
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Pic2 = Croft on The Ron Zalko Workout?
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 19, 2012 - 03:30am PT
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Thilly thaviges.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 19, 2012 - 11:46am PT
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Thanks for the link gf
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 19, 2012 - 12:56pm PT
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Speaking of Serl I hiked up McGuire with him once to look at the crappy limestone on the south face and he stripped down to a nasty pair of stained, gaping boxers on the way up, claiming it was too hot for pants.
The good Christian family on the summit out enjoying their after-church hike was mightily perplexed.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 19, 2012 - 05:06pm PT
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Last shot looks like the Dailey Planet maybe?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 19, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
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Peter Hudson has been continuing the flying of the freak flag with his multi-colored tights the last few years at Squamish
I saw him climb some stuff at base of the grand and at Smith wearing just his long-underwear getup
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 19, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
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Guilty as charged. I climbed up a storm one day with Peter at Castle Rock. Many pitches later, we hover outside my $300 civic and gorged on mustard and onion sandwiches. Only made it about one hour along hwy 2 and had to check into the local hospital because my insides were about to work their way out through my stomach. So painfull.
Great climbing binge though.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 19, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
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Wow Dean. Raping and pillaging my photo library with no credits. I am not cool with that. Post your own photos Thanks.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 20, 2012 - 12:06am PT
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Give the Big Guy a break, he just got here.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 20, 2012 - 12:12am PT
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I met Lindsay a few weeks back @ pet wall, super nice dude.
Calling looks so rad, thanks for the awesome pics -Bmacd!!
Edit the credit & leave them pics up please!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2012 - 01:38am PT
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Bmacd- I knew you were holding out on us!!! If you've got some more lets see them! Write an article for gripped or something.. Maybe some of the guys could help you.. don't let those treasures just sit in your closet!!
Jim B- you too i know you got a couple good ones hanging around you haven't got to yet!
As to using others photos without giving credit or asking them first I agree. Awesome pics tho! They deserve to see the light of day.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 20, 2012 - 02:09am PT
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I think STUCK should renounce it's offwidth mandate and base their fundamental platform solely on laser cut splitters.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 20, 2012 - 10:00am PT
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I was pretty stressed leading the roof on the Badge, not only because Greg was more concerned with what might be left in the food bag, but also because when he wasn't foraging for snacks, he was reading his novel. Classic multi-tasker.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 20, 2012 - 11:32am PT
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Great to hear all these stories from the past, thanks for that epic PC story GF, that was one of the best pieces of writtring I have ever read!
Welcome Dean, thanks for the great photos of the N. walls, it is a whole other world up there!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 20, 2012 - 12:00pm PT
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Hamish F. and other Squamish mountain bikers, take a minute and please help recognize one of the most dedicated trail builders in Squamish. Please vote for my friend Gary MacFarlane for the Kazlaw Community Bike Awards. He has built and maintained many of the most popular single tracks in Squamish. There's a bio about Gary and a link where you can vote here: http://www.bcbikerace.com/registration/promotion
:)
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 20, 2012 - 12:32pm PT
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I couldn't agree more. Gary puts in an amazing effort. I think I wrote about him a couple months ago, right here.
How about Jim Harvey? Legendary trail builder as well. Unfortunately Jim just got ratted out by the president of the dirt bike club. Jim was found to be trail building on crown land, miles from town, in the middle of nowhere. Anyway, seems the powers that be confiscated the poor man's powersaw and kicked him out of the forest. Bad Man. Creating world class trails in the recreation capital of British Columbia. What were you thinking????
Serenity Now.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 20, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
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Click on photo. Then click edit photo. Or go to your photo gallery and click photo then click edit photo. There is even the option to upload a replacement photo and still retain the same photo ID. There are lots of photographers on supertopo and we are all pretty touchy about piracy.
Just because I am not commercial does not exempt me from being respected as photographer
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2012 - 04:52pm PT
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Aww Dean.. Don't let them scare you off!!
Too bad about Barry. Guess having your leg chopped off will make you grumpy. Why can't everyone just play nice?? Such hypocrisy. They went after one of the main trail builders up here BITD too before they realized it was good for business.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 20, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
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Is Luke back from the valley yet? It's 4:20!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 20, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
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Sorry, I'm averaging about a demerit/week for thread drifting. It won't happen again. Very often.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2012 - 05:52pm PT
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Sunday relic. Hamish no worries... as long as we get back to climbing eventually :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2012 - 06:01pm PT
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Dean took down his shots too! Dammit. Glad i got to see them.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 20, 2012 - 08:09pm PT
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I think this is f*#king stupid.
I'm finally calmed down enough to post about this. When I saw Bruce's comment about how Dean
had "raped and pillaged his photo library" I thought it was joke. When I realized it was
serious, and that it in fact had driven away someone we all want to see here, I wrote - and
then deleted - a couple of angry posts.
Nothing good would have come of actually posting them, and I'm glad I didn't.
But the bottom line is that if Bruce had put up a photo that any one of us had taken, we might have
politely asked if he'd mind changing the credit. But I don't think there's a single person posting
on this thread who would have accused him of piracy or of being an as#@&%e, or anything else.
Serious over-reaction.
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MH2
climber
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Apr 20, 2012 - 08:18pm PT
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Hey!! What about the sign?
unattributed photo of unidentified climber on unknown climb
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 20, 2012 - 08:30pm PT
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Yes, I put forth a motion (ya Anders, I'll get it yet) to have Dean back. Such a fantastic guy, such a history of first ascents, and no end of hillarious stories. Can we conjure up some votes here to retrieve Mr Hart? Please?
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Apr 20, 2012 - 08:32pm PT
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That crack looks bomber..
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 20, 2012 - 08:41pm PT
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That BMACD guy is an ol grumP... and possibly a narc.
Case closed
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 20, 2012 - 09:15pm PT
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There's a little perch up in the shrubs to the left of Hand Jive 10b? That u can belay from which makes it legal(ish). Real fun climb.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 20, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
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No offence but forget about Hand Jive, we've got a man overboard and we need to get him back.
Like I heard my 8 yr old say last week......Jesus Crisis.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 20, 2012 - 09:52pm PT
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Awww, booooo. We want Dean back! Thanks for posting Dean. We would have all loved to hear your stories. Total respect for all the work you guys did up there on the North Walls. Some bad ass routes. Peace.
Bmacd, sure credit is due but please be more nice about it!
This is indeed a Jesus Crisis.
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peter croft
climber
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Apr 20, 2012 - 10:13pm PT
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You guys should lighten up on poor Bruce Mac. He's a good guy. He simply said, in colorful ST terms, that you should give credit where it's due. Maybe he made a mistake by being a bit too colorful. Dean's a big boy, he can take it. Seriously he's a really big boy - have you seen him - he's gigantic! But Dean made a mistake by pulling all the photos instead of changing the credit. Then Ghost (Dave H., is that you?) chimed in, making the mistake that Bruce's words were meant to be taken literally. Knowing Bruce I don't think he actually meant that that Dean had physically raped his library and that his entire gallery was in danger of becoming pregnant. I live in the states where, if a lawyer were to get a hold of this, I'm afraid they would take the photo credit issue quite seriously and insist on physically raping you.
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MH2
climber
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Apr 20, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
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Agreed that there is no comparison between Dean and Hand Jive. I try not to tell adults how to behave but I am sure there's room here for both Dean and Bruce.
Funny, one of those photos posted by Dean was taken by me. I was considering posting it myself and when I saw it I got the strangest feeling my brain had stripped a gear. Definitely no offense taken, quite the reverse.
Andy Cairns
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 20, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
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Boo ya! The man speaks! Now stop being a dick everyone & let's talk about climbing again. How's that tick list coming along Hamish??? Just 5 pitches? Btw thanks Bruce & Jim B for your suggestions, some good ideas there for sure, I'll let you know how it goes. Cool article Peter, very well written. Made my palms sweat for sure. I can't comprehend how slab climbing with your knees was advantageous but I haven't done too much onsight FA slab soloing in the rain so what do I know??! (answer:nothing)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 20, 2012 - 10:33pm PT
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Yeah, it's me Peter. But I do think Bruce meant his words seriously, and in any event Dean took them that way.
I used to make about a quarter of my living with a camera, and I am 100% in sympathy with the belief that people who rip off other people's photos should be pummeled with cudgels. But I don't think Dean was ripping anything off. He was just showing a cool picture to some old friends. If it were your photo or mine, would we have reacted in anger? I don't think so.
Anyway, no big deal. I just wish Dean would come back. Even if he is taller than me.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2012 - 11:01pm PT
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I most certainly wouldn't have thought to write on the photo the name of the photographer. Who cares anyway?
I would Hamish. I always credit the photo unless it's mine. Even ones taken with my camera but by others than me. That being said i wouldn't be offended if someone posted my pic but did credit me.
Dean did post saying that he would change the credits but then erased that one and most of the rest of his posts. He also kind of credited Bruce in one photo which is how i knew it was his.
No need to get all uptight about it and I read into it that Bruce was joking too but maybe it was taken a little harshly.
I would really like to see some of the rest of Bruce's secret stash of awesome photos and would love to see some of Peder's.
Andy thank you for all your contributions on this thread, I hope you dig out some older stuff too..
Jim B I'm hoping you do make good on your promise and find some time to dig out the old pics.. Lemme know if you need some color correcting help.
Peter C- Nice to hear from you again, I would love to hear any stories you have to contribute. I know posting isn't really your thing. Excellent piece on the Innate Blog though.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 20, 2012 - 11:02pm PT
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I wish he would come back & reveal some secret beta for True love! By the sounds of things he's an albatross & just reached up there & called it 5.11, any other OG's ever send that one??
Edit: Big mike u should try that one!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 20, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
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This isn't a Squamish picture, but it's not that far away, and the rock up above was dry and warm, even if our shoes did fill up with snow on the approach.
And yes, I took the picture, and I have signed model releases from the rock and the moss.
But none of you can go there unless you leave your cameras at home.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 20, 2012 - 11:06pm PT
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O.K., you guys are right. It is a big deal who took which picture. But that aside, it was a harmless mistake, heavy on the harmless.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2012 - 11:11pm PT
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Edit: Big mike u should try that one!
Sounds right up my alley.. now to work on my 5.11 skills :)
But that aside, it was a harmless mistake, heavy on the harmless.
Agreed. Too bad really. Hopefully Dean will come back.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
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hahaha.. Frickin canadians eh??
Back to Hand Jive... Sign? There was a sign? I never saw it your honor! Oh you mean the one in that photo?.. hmm we never noticed it. damn that's a hard 10b.
Tami- Saw your cerro torre cartoon in alpinist the other day.. Awesome.. i so wanted to post it to the cerro torre thread :)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 21, 2012 - 12:26am PT
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I cherished your girlfriend. Lol great post Jim B
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 21, 2012 - 12:41am PT
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Hey Tami, who's more albatross Big Mike Or Dean? Could we wrap them in twine, glue, paper mache and fly them across Howe Sound to access the cliffs over there?
Speaking of which, you older farts ever journey across Howe Sound to the rocks we all gander at? Pics?
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 21, 2012 - 01:10am PT
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I come back from yoga class and what the heck happened?
Dean grow up fer Christ sakes. It's 2012.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2012 - 01:29am PT
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Tami- I would never dream of it. I wanted to because it would be funny to see the reactions.
Bmacd- bring on the north walls pics!!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 21, 2012 - 02:19am PT
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Good point Tami. edit- not your above post but the thing about the
Squiggly things!
Especially the sarcasm part!
Sarcasm seems to be a common theme amongst all generations of squamish climbers
& ingrained into Squamish climbing much the same way that
Moss scrubbing & chainsaws are. A good thing IMO, keeps it fun:-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2012 - 02:19am PT
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I don't think there has been a taller climber at Squish then Big Mike. All the others are 6'4" or shorter. Some of us A LOT shorter
We don't know that for sure, there could be some 7 foot giant out body stemming "Tall Skinny People" as we speak ;)
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 21, 2012 - 09:41am PT
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Yoga?? Oh man, you gotta get yourself a bike.
And instead of telling him to grow up, how bout a simple apology?
Like Jim said, we're Canadian.
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MH2
climber
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Apr 21, 2012 - 10:31am PT
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The 7 feet, the Hand Jive, and the trouble-with-words thing prompts me to ask about a line in the McLane guide from 2005:
"Make a 7 1/2 foot dyno down into Java Jive (13a)."
I can't see the body language that goes with that.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 21, 2012 - 11:13am PT
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It's still not too late Bruce. That sport is much more suited for you than you think. Huge Sorca gear/bike swap today at Pac-West. If you have any money left over after paying all those people to show up at the meeting the other night, bring it on down.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2012 - 11:29am PT
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Andy- where? I searched my 05 guide but no dice. So i got the 01 guide out just to be thorough but still no luck. Is it april fools day again or am i just blind?
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 21, 2012 - 12:12pm PT
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Hamish I am sure you are as elite a mtn biker as you were a climber which is why I am not going to be trying to keep up to you on the trails. This bikram yoga is an easy way to help deal with my present sinus health problem. That and a smart Doctor which seems to be in short supply up north. I am too sick to climb is the situation here.
Dean is more than welcome to repost everything and more with captions and credits. He doesn't need to apologise, but he does need to buy scanner and start scanning. Maybe I could send a couple of my inter-dimensional Sasquatch pals over to help with the computer work.
If I seemed nasty it's because I am fairly ill and have been so for too long.
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Apr 21, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
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The 7 1/2 foot dyno is on Teabag Tango, one of many Andrew Boyd routes.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
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hmm... still no Mention of Teabag Tango have I found in the 2005 Mclane guide. Andy does yours include the Lower Malamute climbs within the rail right of way boundary? mine does not.. were there two printings?
Anders- Do you remember that Luke asked you about "The Unhappy Hooker" awhile back? Have you any memories of that FA with Robin Barley? If in fact KM is correct and you were in on that one.
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MH2
climber
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Apr 21, 2012 - 02:09pm PT
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Mike, my quote is from page 260 under Java Jive, where Teabag Tango is described.
And yes, my guide includes the Lower Malemute, though not the off-limits climbs like Clean Crack.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2012 - 02:21pm PT
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oops. got mixed up with hand jive. my bad
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 21, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
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It's B.K. that needs the bike. The new Pac West is beside Home Depot.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 21, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
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Bruce have you been drinking?
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BooYah
Social climber
Ely, Nv
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Apr 21, 2012 - 07:57pm PT
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It IS Saturday, KidC.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 21, 2012 - 08:08pm PT
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Has any one around here been on humpty dumpty? That yellow sickle is quite appealing, is it really a4?!?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 21, 2012 - 08:14pm PT
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Jimmy b; the more things change, the more they stay the same :p
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 21, 2012 - 08:30pm PT
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Re: Humpty Dumpty
Go Kid Go for it .... I am certain Maddaloni or someone like Geisler has a more recent ascent and beta - buy Maddaloni's big wall topo guide to the Chief. But if the belay stations up there have not been replaced since the first ascent, you are definitely
.
.
.
going to die ...
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 21, 2012 - 09:09pm PT
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All three pitches above the roof were difficult BITD before peckers, leadenhosen, and the invention of telephones, internal combustion engines, and of fire.
But its the loose flake high above the belay for the hooking pitch to gain the Humpty Dumpty which was the death pitch.
Hamish broke a big chunk of it off into his lap and had to toss/re-direct it so it didn't slash his station. I had to do a long hook throw to bypass the broken flake on the subsequent ascent. I think the route possibly became harder after Hamishes ascent
The sickle is pretty nasty too, though gf dispatched it like an A1 lead. Maddaloni rates the route overall A2+ but grades the hooking pitch A3 and the sickle A4. That doesn't make sense.
I am sure it's been climbed millions of times by vacationing cali hardmen and the new gen squamish crew in the past 25 years whom are laughing their f*#king asses of at this motley crew posting bullshit from their wheelchairs.
I remember clearly how horrible the rusty leeper button heads Scott used for the belay at the end of the Sickle were, which we bivied on.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 21, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
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Dean and Randy doing their thing on the North Walls
Question for you Dean, did I loan you the negative for the above shot and if so do you still have it ?
I have a killer telephoto evening shot of Public image from a distance on Kodachrome. Needs to be scanned before I die.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 21, 2012 - 09:39pm PT
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I see Greg is reading his book at the belay again. As soon as you see him in his hammock, you know what's really going on. Multitasking.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 21, 2012 - 09:41pm PT
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And eating the leaders share of the snacks too. Son of a bitch !!
Edit : I hope nobody's kid's just read this post.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 21, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
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I think this is Ron Zalko workout where Dean shot that killer pic of Peter which was posted earlier then removed
Tami ... my bad - regrettably
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 21, 2012 - 10:35pm PT
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I was fortunate to climb the Ron Zalko with Josh (I think). One of the best Squamish pitches. Hope it's still clean.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 21, 2012 - 11:30pm PT
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Right then. Back to climbing. Not quite on the Upper North Wall, but not that far from it. A fine day out in 96 or 97 or so.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 22, 2012 - 12:19am PT
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I'm off to the climbing gym in shanghai where i am stationed for the weekend to make amends....
Best braised lamb shanks I ever had (outside my own house) were in Shanghai. And, now that I think of it, the best venison I've ever had was in Kuala Lumpur, and there ain't a deer within 5,000 km of KL. Nor a lamb anywhere near Shanghai, for that matter. But the Euros running the kitchens in the big Asian hotels know what they're doing.
Uh... wait. That's food, not climbing. I'm bad. Sorry.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 22, 2012 - 12:26am PT
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I just got the expression copyright. She owes me five hundred. Frickin hilarious tho.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 22, 2012 - 12:50am PT
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Good shots ghost -good thing you guys had some brains on that crux move!
Ha ha. Just shows the difference between on sight and first ascent at places like Squamish and Index. Once you've spent about three zillion hours scrubbing, you are intimately familiar with every crystal on the entire climb, and there are no hidden holds or mystery moves.
It was funny watching you lead that rig. You, being about eight number grades better than any of us, cruised through the hard part and then fell on a move that's probably 10a if you've been there before. I also seem to recall that Mr. Brennan was not having the best day on rock he'd ever had. Substantial amount of cursing and general "this is a bunch of shit" as he followed you on that pitch.
And as to the first ascent of the pitch, I'm still bummed. On the day we declared it clean enough to climb, we drew straws to see who would get first shot. (Yeah, real straws. From a whisk broom we were using to get rid of dust and dirt.) I won, and was totally psyched. But when I started racking up, Eric and Susan looked at me like I was an idiot. "You want to do it now?"
Being already well into my dotage, I had no clue what they were talking about. I'd won the draw, why wouldn't I want to get on it?
"Because the sun just came onto it, and it's gotta be 90 f*#king degrees."
"So?"
"So you are going to grease off the hard part. There's no way you can stick to it when it's this hot."
Of course I knew better and launched into it. And of course they were right, and I took a huge whipper off the bit below the roof when my rubber wouldn't stick to the blistering hot rock and totally trashed my elbow crashing into the corner below. I tried again anyway, and only slit a finger open when I fell, but that was enough to send me home for the day.
Eric, who had drawn the second-shortest straw, totally styled it in the cool of the following morning. And I've hated him ever since.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 22, 2012 - 09:57am PT
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That's so funny cause I think I got sandbagged on that pitch too. From/with Greg. All I can remember is him telling me it was five ten up there, not too bad. Then I recall posing away in the undercling mode, thinking it was pretty tough, feeling away for some holds to get me through. Sure is a whole lot nicer than going the other way to that ledge. Nice route.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 22, 2012 - 10:36am PT
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For long routes we'd have to leave little Eddie at the base. He was only 20 pounds but there was no way we were squeezing him in the pack and he'd just be a liability at the belays.
One day a long time ago, before there was a Habrich gondola, we were climbing Freeway and Eddie was guarding the base. I'd always leave him with food, water, and one of my sweaters to lounge on. There was no way I'd ever tie him up just in case a bigger animal, which meant every other animal, showed up. He was always very good and I'd usually yell down to him from the first few pitches, just to assure him I'd be there, eventually.
We were somewhere in that roofy area, maybe two thirds of the way up, and I had long since lost sight of the little Yapper down at the base. I was staring down at the parking lot next to the highway and I could just make out a little black dot running around, checking out all the cars. I was instantly stressed out and mentioned to whoever I was with that we were about to put it in overdrive, because I had to get down there before someone ran over, or ran off with, my dearest Friend.
One can only climb those pitches so fast and fortunately we'd been there before, lots. We hit the top, ran down the trail and bolted out to the parking lot.
There were loads of vehicles all over the place and no sign of the rat-killer (in his own mind). Oh, I was losing my mind; where could he be? Maybe he motored back up to the base where his stash of kibbles were.
Silly me, he'd been cruising around the lot, trying to beg food off anyone willing. I finally found him, hanging out with some good looking girl in the back of her pick up, eating her food; big smile on both their faces.
When I called him he didn't want to come and the girl questioned me a little as to make sure I had the right dog. She was sad to see her new buddy get repo'd.
We hiked up to the base to retrieve his nest and Eddie was doing his "independant-tough-guy" trot the whole way.
Sorry, that turned into a dog story more than a rock story. It's also my answer to Ryan, who was asking for five classic squamish routes. It's more than five pitches but that's my reccomendation. Truly a classic Squamish route, complete with gear placements, exposure, falcons, ravens, and some outstanding belay ledges in beautiful locations.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 22, 2012 - 10:46am PT
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@hamish; Eddie sure sounds like he was a great pal, you mentioned him up thread when you were talking about the FA of heat wave, did you say he somehow got to the base of the buttress or something... If so how. Also what's your opinion on the yellow sickle?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 22, 2012 - 10:53am PT
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We used to hike up the Chief and rap down to that huge ledge at the base of the tough pitch on the buttress. We spent a few days there scrubbing a couple routes, so we'd take Eddie with us, in the pack. That ledge is so big, it was great for Big Ed; he could run around without being tied in.
As far as that yellow sickle goes? Not sure I can offer much there as it was 31 years ago. It's expanding, so be happy with the piece you're on, because once you're off it, it might just fall out. You'll do it.
Wow Bruce, I'm so impressed your dog made it from the Malemute to your house on her own. That's a long way! If she tried that stunt a few months from now, she'd have a nice new pedestrian overpass to get her four legs over to the Casino. I guess she'd like that better than pressing the big round button which changes the lights at the intersection. Talk about a waste of money. I'm willing to bet there was steam pouring out your ears when you heard about that project?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 22, 2012 - 11:50am PT
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No no no, I mean the ped. overpass they're building as we speak. Gets one from the west side of the hwy. to the..................casino! Can you EVEN believe it? An overpass right beside a pedestrian-controlled traffic light. Call me crazy.
If only there were some real trees there instead of crummy cottonwoods and alders, then we could've hired M.H. to kibosch the project. :)
The K.M bridge isn't so bad, but they should've painted it grey.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 22, 2012 - 12:09pm PT
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Of course they had a public forum. Unfortunately the "pro" crowd, having talked amongst themselves first, complained heavily about having to push that big round button to cross the hwy.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 22, 2012 - 12:13pm PT
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That's why they pay you the Big bucks Bruce. Your brain is cranking, 24-7.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 22, 2012 - 12:20pm PT
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Oh yah, that always works. Maybe Anders can park his matrix in the forms before they pour the concrete. It'll be the first hybrid overpass.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 22, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
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I'm onto another coffee myself. Saving the beer for tonight's canuck's win.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 22, 2012 - 01:15pm PT
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Sorry, write me up for another demerit.
I've enjoyed my 5 minutes, you can fire me if you like.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 22, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
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Yesterday's haul. About two thirds of it from around and to the west of the first summit. I got an equal amount about ten days ago on the trail, up to the big balanced rock. I like to do a pass in the spring as soon as the snow goes, but before the leaves unfold, as you can see better through the shrubberies. But I don't save projects for Earth Day - probably 8 or 10 times a year I hike up after a day's climbing, and pick up garbage with my official YCA litterstick. Mostly up to and around the first and second summits, occasionally the fourth, although there's usually not much over there. Sometimes others help.
The golf ball was new, and hopefully not an omen.
Plus a few days graffiti removal at the Chief and the Little Smoke Bluffs each year. Logistically more complex, as lots of water is needed.
There was a person at Thursday night's meeting, yapping about overuse of the trail and garbage. She seemed to believe that building a gondola would solve that. Funny, I've never once seen her on the trails, cleaning up.
Given that there are perhaps 100,000 annual hiker days on the backside trails, and that they seem to get both up and down just fine, the issue seems to be a lack of trails, not a lack of gondolas.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
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Bmacd- Thanks for the north walls pics! Excellent descriptions too.
Ghost. Thanks for the Borderline story and pics.. always good reading.
Nice work indeed Anders.. Thanks for the puppy tales guys... Hamish your punctuation is improving at an exponential rate.
Wow.. how did we get to 2000 so fast? I never expected this when I started up this thread. I guess if Anders hadn't picked up the history project and continued his Climbing at Squamish in the 1970s (TR) I might still be lurking in the background.
Thanks to all for your contributions.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Apr 22, 2012 - 04:45pm PT
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Thanks Anders for doing that.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 22, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
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I already thanked Anders for grafitti removal on the other site. The pics were better on the that site because you could see his rope hanging on zombie roof. He was working it between shifts of granite scrubbing. Another multitasker at work. Really good effort.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 22, 2012 - 11:18pm PT
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That's not true; zombie has seen many ascents.
M.H. might be the first by the over-55 club though.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 22, 2012 - 11:21pm PT
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No, but I did some research on what was available and works, and both BC Parks and the Little Smoke Bluffs committee are OK with it. I've tried several things, including some spray-on stuff called Goof Off, essentially a solvent. The stuff I use now is called Removall - "Industrial Paint Stripper for Concrete and Masonry". In the fine print it says "biodegradable", but I'm not sure that I believe it. Anyway, it's a paste that you goop on. Let it sit for a while, then scrub and rinse, scrub and rinse, then re-apply. Usually I use a soft brush, sometimes with a bit of help from a wire brush. For areas that were lichen and moss free, the result isn't very visible. Otherwise, the graffiti is gone, but you end up with a visible cleaned area, which may take several years to fade and grow over. As you can see from the following, from the Apron three years ago.
Years ago I got into the habit of hiking up the Chief in the evening, after climbing. A good bit of aerobic exercise, plus it's quieter and cooler. Then I started taking a plastic bag, and with the addition of a litter stick can do something useful en route, plus get little breaks and chat with people. It's not much trouble, and I figure we all should do something to look after places we cherish.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 22, 2012 - 11:28pm PT
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Almost forgot - sometimes we stain the wooden railings, to cover over graffiti. (They need it anyway.) Nothing fancy, just a light brown stain. Once or twice a year. There are a bunch already on the new woodwork, which will be taken care of as soon as we get some dry, warm weather. Maybe not this one, though - for once Chief graffiti art that I can appreciate.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 22, 2012 - 11:29pm PT
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Well Anders I believe you've got your quota taken care of. Now go paint the town red; er, wait a minute, go have some fun.
You deserve it.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 23, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
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Thanks for the awesome samaritan work Anders, you are such a selfless individual. It is really quite inspiring.
However, it seems odd that you discriminate against certain types of "graffiti" while letting others remain. This is common practice amongst urban gangs, to remove or cover rival gangs graffiti- or "dis" it. While leaving their own art up, should we be having concerns that there is some sort of crayon symbol drawing gang that is slowly taking over turf around here? Are you somehow involved in this crew of chief hiking, salmon & peace sign drawing gang of ruffians? Are these mysterious symbols somehow related to the group which is trying to stop the gondola proposal??
If so, where do i sign up? :-)
Thanks for the recommend Hamish, i have been thinking about Freeway for a while but it has always intimidated me, time to sack up this summer. After i finish Jim B & Bruces lists i'll be ready. I would guess that your recommend would include the express lane variation seeing as you put it up?
Cool Borderline shots Ghost, thanks for those!! That climb is awesome! Linking it into AC then high plains makes for a mega day on the chief. Borderline also contains one of the trickier 10a pitches in town, that weird flare chimney OW thing.......
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 23, 2012 - 02:23pm PT
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I think you need to climb Freeway all ways, so to speak. The original was really good, the little roof variation (diesel roof?) was quite cool, and the express lanes take you out to that exposed arete area. All completely worthy, and you'll have an excuse to climb the thing many times.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 23, 2012 - 02:49pm PT
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All this talk about 11d variations, and similar hardman crap is pretty disgusting. Just rock gymastics. Not Real Climbing at all. So let's get this wagon back on the right road.
Here's real Coast-style climbing:
Disclaimer: This is not Squamish. But it was as close as we got to Squamish yesterday, and Squamish once offered similar scenes. And what the hell, pretty much everybody on this thread is a logger at heart, and the location of that tree is available to the highest bidder.
Edit: Except Anders. Sorry about that. We know Anders is not a logger at heart, and the insult was entirely unintended.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2012 - 03:35pm PT
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Ghost- You'll be happy to know that those places still exist here at Squamish and abound in the Sea to Sky corridor. You simply have to walk a little further or look a little closer and dig something great out of the moss.
Mr Frimer just dug this one out of the moss,
Jeremy Frimer Photo (I'm Assuming no credit on his site jeremyfrimer.com)
It's an easy ramble from the parking lot about 2 minutes of so.
The diagonal leads to a couple nice easy slab moves and links up to a nice 10b corner varation
Jeremy Frimer Photo
Or a 5.8 Finish
Jeremy Frimer Photo
It's Called Rambles, we simuled it yesterday and I thought it was really cool. A way better approach than walking IMHO.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 23, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
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Ghost- You'll be happy to know that those places still exist here at Squamish and abound in the Sea to Sky corridor.
I know. Just trying to provoke someone into doing exactly what you did -- post more photos.
And my hat's off to Jeremy. I'm looking forward to trying some of his recent creations this summer. (Unless there are lineups on them. I which case I'll come back the next year and take the gondola up to less-crowded venues.
And speaking of less-crowded venues, are there any good new crags under development in the Squamish area? Or the Vancouver-to-Whistler area? Almost everybody in the Seattle area goes to the same three or four places to climb, and the few of us who are willing to look outside those areas have what seems like an endless supply of terrific climbing and potential climbing to ourselves. With Squamish as crowded as it has become, are many people saying "F*#k this! I'm going to look for something else"? Or are they all just standing in line for the same old routes?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
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We did the 10b finish and I was yelling at Luke asking if he was belaying and of course he couldn't hear me because he was halfway up the slab of Bananna peel. So I gave Kyle a hip belay through what I thought was the crux but which turned out to be just the last slab moves and I ended up halfway up the slab while he was on the crux...
We cruised up bpeel and did boomstick in under an hour and bailed before it rained.
It was pretty darn fun. I've simuled the bpeel boomstick combo before but not from the bottom like that.
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Whitehorse Jeff
Trad climber
Fairfield, CT
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Apr 23, 2012 - 03:48pm PT
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Tami: you're correct about Les MacDonald coming from the Felling, a section of Newcastle in Northumberland, northeast England. His younger brother Dave was killed in a car accident in Dec. 1985. Dave was a great mate of Kevin McLane's back home, a proud Geordie like him and one of my best climbing partners. Dave's son Jeff is currently living in Vancouver and climbs often in the Squamish area. I'm an east coast Yank lurker on this site, and wish I were closer to Squamish, as my 2 trips there have given me many fond memories. I'll be back, not this year but in the future for sure.
BTW, about 6 of us from New England were in the Bugs in '83 when you, Peter and Hamish were there and we have often reminisced about Peter coming back to the hut having soloed in a day all the routes that our whole group had done separately in our week there! We were pulling beers out of the stream when PC got back, asked you what there was for supper and you mentioned a head of lettuce. He said something to the effect that he would quite like a salad and you answered " You've just proved you have 2 perfectly good hands. You can get it yourself." We thought that was just classic!
I also remember Hamish coming back to the hut that morning while we were having a late breakfast, looking a bit stunned--somone in the hut asked him where he'd been, he responded that he and Peter had just soloed the Beckey/Chouinard, they said "no you didn't " and he responded quietly "actually we did!"
We , although all much older (then and now) were duly impressed.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 23, 2012 - 03:55pm PT
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As I've worked several summers in the bush doing geological exploration, doing a lot of falling, ghost might be surprised yet again. Everything in its place, eh?
I mostly work on projects that are some distance from the nearest road, or in 'climber' places. That's more than enough, and as Tami says, there's always a concern about repeat offenders.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 23, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
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Dang that Hamish and Croft usurping us - thus no one seems to remember Dave and I returning to the hut on that historic day ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2012 - 05:14pm PT
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With Squamish as crowded as it has become, are many people saying "F*#k this! I'm going to look for something else"? Or are they all just standing in line for the same old routes?
It's only really busy up to say 5.10- on classic routes that are in the Squamish select guide as well.. After that it starts to mellow out alot.
Trick to Skywalker is go early or late and if you go late park across the road so as not to get locked in.
I think Rambles is going to split some more parties up and make the Apron less congested too. I saw more people on Over the Rainbow, Sickle, Sparrow, Slab Alley, One Scoop, then I ever have in past years.
edit We have lots of options still, FA's, Classics, New Stuff, Obscure stuff... Lots... I'm just trying to tick off all the classics you guys left me!
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 23, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
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Dem ropes really slow ya down in the mountains. At least Dave and I got off the drugs for a day and outta bed and climbed a world class route.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Apr 23, 2012 - 05:47pm PT
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The lower Apron slab routes are great. I hardly ever see anyone on the Bottom line, and ever since I climbed it once, I don't think I have done the scramble up to the base of the 'popular' climbs.
I really look forward to getting on the rock now. Last night I dreamt I skipped some bolts on a climb to make a fair means ascent..... lol.
I plan on going up this weekend assuming the weather is nice. Anyone wanna put me up Saturday night? I might camp out in the boulders, old school style.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 23, 2012 - 05:59pm PT
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Just go sleep under Rat Rock. I ate all the rats so you'll be safe.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 23, 2012 - 06:05pm PT
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Sleep on top of the Squaw. She is pretty accommodating.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Apr 23, 2012 - 06:32pm PT
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As of right now, Cacodemon cave is my plan.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2012 - 07:44pm PT
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It was just an example of one of the new crags. there's lots more obviously.
Why don't you tell us about your new alpine stuff??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
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looks fun :) got any summer pics?
Just saw this image of Keith Reid again when i was perusing some old threads.
Photo Whistler Publication MH2 Posted It.
Notice it's Rogues and there is a river below but then they filled some of it with sky :) wow.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2012 - 08:32pm PT
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Lake Louise?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2012 - 08:35pm PT
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nope it's on the list. i've seen the back of the lake write-up the KM's new book.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 23, 2012 - 08:37pm PT
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KFR, such a shining star. Gotta luv the guy and a great representative for "Senior climbers" still in their prime despite old age
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2012 - 08:54pm PT
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when were those pics taken Bruce?
Nice shot btw. I know i'm a pussy. :)
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Apr 23, 2012 - 09:51pm PT
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Lake Loise is great....bomber quartzite is second only to Mt arapiles....
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Whitehorse Jeff
Trad climber
Fairfield, CT
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Apr 23, 2012 - 10:07pm PT
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Bruce: don't feel too bad about being upstaged; 2 of my climbing partners that week in the Kain hut had bivvied at the base of the Beckey/Chouinard before starting at dawn about 2 days before Peter and Hamish's solo ascents--they did manage to get back for dinner, but only just; meanwhile I had done the Krauss/McCarthy, East ridge of Bugaboo, SW of Snowpatch and McTech Arete with 3 different partners over 4 days and was feeling pretty chuffed--perfect rock , perfect weather, and no epics-- then the antics of the "big leaguers" brought us back to reality !
There was another bit of humor attached to our trip; one of our planned number preceded our arrival in BC by a week and went directly up to the Kain Hut. After a week there in mostly bad weather (heavy rain), he had only managed to solo the W ridge on Pigeon, with no view--he came out, called us to tell us to change plans because the weather sucked, paid a couple of hundred bucks to change his flight home, and bailed. We crossed paths in the airport in Calgary; we of course were not about changing plans-- then WE had 9 bluebird days in our 10 allotted and began praying for one bad weather day to rest our feet and knees from continual daily trips up and down the moraines and glacier and our swollen hands from all those wonderful granite cracks. For his move he earned the moniker "Bobbie Barometer" for the next few years!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 23, 2012 - 10:29pm PT
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Hey Mike, we should notify the RCMP if we climb tomorrow, with times of course.
That video is hilarious!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 23, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
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KFR, did he ever work before the age of 40?
Very cool Chounard-Becky story Anders!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 23, 2012 - 11:12pm PT
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How is it possible to have the words "senior climber" in the description of a photo of a climber wearing YELLOW LYCRA!!!!!!
That ain't right.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2012 - 11:49pm PT
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Ya i saw it too.. Relic that's funny. On the Devils Tower thread today I found this: A strict system of screening qualified climbers has been worked out by the Park Service. All climbers must have proper equipment and experience, and a recommendation from a recognized climbing organiation.
I thought it was a very interesting idea considering noobs these days! :)
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 24, 2012 - 01:19am PT
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Too many Gondolas ?
Vancouver real estate prices giving you the blues ?
Frustrated because you can't climb 5.14 finger cracks ?
Las Vegas Foreclosures listings
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 24, 2012 - 01:20am PT
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How much for the shanty town?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2012 - 02:13am PT
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Got out to Murrin on Saturday and took a few photos..
Kyle on Washington Bullets 10c
I met Peder Ourom that day and he told me that he did the FA on this one with Darryl Hatten. He said "I did most of the scrubbin and he did most of the beer drinking." I asked him who did the sendin' and he said "I did". Nice guy. His kid and I had a nice little chat at one point but I can't remember his name.. I'm so brutal with that.
I of course was looking like a dumb monkey hanging ropes for the camera and using my jumars for the first time this year.
Py on Up For Grabs 5.8
Kyle trying to get a cam on the undercling on Washington Bullets 5.10c
Charlie the climbing dog
He climbed up with me to the top of brunser when I set the rope up!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 24, 2012 - 09:01am PT
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Now that's a five star dog photo! Peder's kid's name is Jens, nice kid. Actually, that "kid" is around 25 now. Wow. We were all in the Valley when Peder's wife, Louisa, was 8 1/2 months pregnant with the little bundle of joy. Peder was pretty motivated as he saw his life taking a wee bit of a change. In 5 days him and I did the rostrum, the nose, and astroman. I still remember topping out on the nose as a nasty storm was rolling in; we could see super-pregnant Louisa driving around in circles down by el cap meadows. We were a little far away but had no problem sensing the stress level.
Pretty cool, now Jens loves climbing!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2012 - 06:02pm PT
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Hamish- Jens thanks! Ya he was excited for sure. How could you not with a man as enthusiastic about climbing as Peder is? That was a pretty impressive tick list you guys pulled of in Yosemite :)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 24, 2012 - 07:38pm PT
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And where is The Mouse's Tooth? Looks like fabulous rock.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 24, 2012 - 08:07pm PT
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It's in the Joffre... If my memory serves correctly
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 24, 2012 - 08:10pm PT
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It's somewhere in North Joffre Creek. And that's not speculation, either. http://squamishmonkey.com/
Here's the Bear, as he's apparently now called, in Yosemite on that trip during spring of 1986. We are totally crushing Lunatic Fringe, without help from a gondola or anything. I don't remember seeing Haggis on that trip, but John and I were staying in Upper Pines, and so might not have crossed paths. IIRC, Jens was born a month afterward.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 24, 2012 - 10:36pm PT
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an obscure corner of washington
If you want Washington obscurities, get on down here and we'll give you a tour.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
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Thanks for the pics Bruce K! Looks amazing!
Great photo of "the bear" Anders, I recognized him right away :)
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 24, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
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Yah I was there Anders...probably couldn't afford the British Properties up there at the Pines. Too bad we don't get to see any of the Bear's pics. here cause we were a little light on friends if I recall. The camming type.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 25, 2012 - 12:35am PT
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It was John's idea to stay at Upper Pines, for a change from Camp 4. I've never stayed anywhere but Camp 4 before or since then. It may be a slum, but it's a friendly slum, with many good memories.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 25, 2012 - 09:58am PT
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Ya, well there's nothing quite like impending.....ca ca ca ca co co comittment. Ya, that's it, mixed with being a pa pa pa pa parent!
It was great to see what the Bear could scratch his way up while his wife could barely fit behind the steering wheel.
Peder had such great mountain sense, really. There we were, bivied for a night on camp 5 and he woke me up at 3 or 4 telling me to grab my headlight and start leading because he could see a storm coming from the west. I did, and we motored the best we could up the top part. We hit that slabby finish at the top of the nose just as all hell broke loose. So close. It was probably late morning but it was pouring rain, mixed with snow... just terrible. I don't know what the hell we would've done if the Bear hadn't got us underway in the early darkness.
That storm went on for a few days and YOSR had to go pluck several parties off the wall. Way to go Peder!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 25, 2012 - 10:25am PT
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O.K., while we're babbling about pregnant lovlies. Tim (from Invemere Tim fame), Peder, and I head er up to astroman. Tim is so excited because it may be his last chance for a killer route before Tami gets (well, you know). Anyway, the guy is in heaven.
Tim was leading the fourth pitch and looking good. At one point he gets himself stemmed out for a breather and CRACK, he dislocated his shoulder. Oh man, the pain the poor guy was in. He lowered to the belay, his lower lip was dragging on his harness he was so bummed. Poor guy.
We tied our two ropes together and lowered the dad-to-be down to the ground. Peder and I selfishly went up. Tim hiked back down to his beautiful wife, then they went back to Canada and made some beautiful kids. Not sure if he's been back to the valley since.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 25, 2012 - 10:31am PT
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Pretty sure he had to go for shoulder surgery after that enduro-corner.
:(
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 25, 2012 - 08:27pm PT
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C'mon guys, how can we take over this Californian website if we don't keep the Canadian content bumped
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Apr 25, 2012 - 08:56pm PT
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Hamish -you're recall is excellent- that's pretty much how it went down.
Bummer drive home in the VW. Got it fixed and had a few more separations but has been good for years.
Been to the valley a couple of times since- climbed the Nose a few years back but a date with Astroman is still front and center.
Speaking of gf and snacks- a year before that- maybe 90?- we headed up the Salathe during a heat wave with not too much water.
We bummed sips from folks bailing.
I was a vegetarian at the time and pictured us snacking on a huge chunk of blue cheese and crackers on El cap Tower (or Spire?). Well we made it just below that feature and were so parched that the blue cheese never made it out, and sat festering in the bottom of the pack till we got down. Even Greg didn't touch it.
I do remember guzzling from an ancient bottle of brown sludge we found stashed on the summit-didn't contract anything nasty. It was like nectar.
Ya Bruce- grizzlies not gondolas! Jumbo Wild!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 26, 2012 - 12:33am PT
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This thread is titled "Squamish Photos and Stories. So, in the spirit of that title, here's a Squamish Photo. It shows a well-known and much-respected Supertopian Squamishite about to...
Well, that's the question, isn't it? About to what?
I supply the photo, you make up the story...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2012 - 12:38am PT
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Try and squash a cameraman?
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Apr 26, 2012 - 01:09am PT
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Execute a 10.0 Apron swan dive?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 26, 2012 - 01:10am PT
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Swan dive off burgers n fries??! That is a wierd photo.
Cool shots everyone! Thanks. Mike it's cool to see PY getting on the sharp end.
I'll try to keep the photo thing going, not exactly
Squamish but close enough I'd say, taken a few years
Back by Henkel on a sunny February day when everyone
Was cryin about no snow. I think there may already
Be a shot of this climb on this thread, it's a classic for sure.
Ps, speaking of climbing on the hill, Bruce I see that ur responsible for the climbing up on showcase spire, hopin to get up there before blackcomb shuts down, does that sport rig up there dry pretty quick or is it a seeper?? As well do you know what time of day is it in the sun?? Thanks!
Edit: haha just saw scrubbers response
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Apr 26, 2012 - 01:10am PT
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Sacrifice a virgin to the sun gods in hopes of more dry days?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 26, 2012 - 01:11am PT
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Are u saying he looks like a virgin?
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Apr 26, 2012 - 01:11am PT
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Silence the masses who have assembled to hear his plans for a new world order?
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Apr 26, 2012 - 01:14am PT
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He's in the process of being arrested for having the audacity of continuing to use a rack of ridgid stem Friends.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 26, 2012 - 01:30am PT
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That's funny Tami I totally thought you were the one that Tim knocked up, thanks for clarifying!
How long have you & Ghost been together?? Jk
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2012 - 02:17am PT
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You mean this one Ryand?
Kyle on Blister in the Sun, 5.9
a Jim Franken Dary Hemmons joint 1999
As Bruce will surely tell you Finestone Cowboy is a excellent route and it seemed quick drying. It's fairly overhanging so it doesn't get wet if it starts to snow. :)
We went up there last year with intentions of climbing Darn Gendarm the 5.9 crack, but it was far to early and the snow patch was still soaking it.
Dave and Luke made the best of it and tried Finestone Cowboy
a Mike Cowper picture taken with Dave's camera.
http://thekidcormier.blogspot.ca/2011/12/showcase-spire.html
Locker style edit: Jim B HaHaHaHaHa ROFL thanks. :)
edit2: Ryand it's good to get PY on the sharp end. He's placing pretty good gear allready... we'll see how skaha goes. We should go climb soon.
edit3: edit
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 26, 2012 - 09:28am PT
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Oh woops, didn't mean to mix up the Tamis. I can't remember Invermere's Tami"s last name but she had a big Hart. She may even spell her name differently than coastal Tami. My apologies....
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 26, 2012 - 10:26am PT
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How long have you & Ghost been together??
We used to get together every 16 months or so, but we've been separated for a while now.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 26, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
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I say ditch the day job. You should be a photographer. Outstanding Dog picture.
Then you can be a starving artist, instead of a starving athlete.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 26, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
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Are your rivers starting to flood? Looks like our first real melt of the season.
The great thing is the trails are finally greening up nicely.
No floods yet that I've heard about, and the rivers by Hwy 2 and I-90 are still fairly low (as of last w/e).
As to the greening of the trails, I can live without that. Although it is beautiful. We were up at Zeke's on Sunday, and I posted a shot of the glowing green moss on the approach a few pages upthread. But the base of the wall hadn't greened yet, which made for easy exploration. There's enough snow crashing off the main wall in the winter to create a 15-to-20 meter tree-free zone at the base, but once the snow is gone, the shrubbery goes mad. It was nice to be there before that happened this year.
We expected the walls would be pretty wet, so we didn't even take any climbing gear, just went exploring. Pretty magical place -- I'll start a separate thread about it once this month's print deadline crush is over.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2012 - 01:05pm PT
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Nice pic indeed Bruce.. Awesome colors. I am going to escape the rain, and seek dryer pastures in the okanagan..
Skaha!!
Peace!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 26, 2012 - 03:57pm PT
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Ya, I was kidding about the starving part.
You are an athlete however. One day you're climbing grand wall, next day it's skiing the tantalus, then off to crag at Penticton.
Soon you'll be riding up the gondola, cranking off habrich and sky pilot, then back to the tram station for a beer at sunset. You're living the dream.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 26, 2012 - 08:47pm PT
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Andy at the no hands rest on Poultry in Motion?
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MH2
climber
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Apr 26, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
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Sacrifice a virgin to the sun gods in hopes of more dry days?
Yes. The recipe is hard to get right but sometimes it works.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Apr 27, 2012 - 12:19am PT
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The picture of Showcase Spire reminds me of one late last summer, just after the glacier closed.....
A myself and a friend were on our way up to Chek to clip some bolts nice and early in the morning..... maybe around eight. We got to talking about Showcase Spire and how both of us had wanted to climb it for a while. As we turned onto the access road for Chek, he was just like, 'want to go climb Showcase?' and I was all, 'well I'm a little short on gear, but it's only 5.9' and he was there, 'but isn't there a bolted route?'
I didn't think I'd be climbing .11c at that point in the year, but he's a strong climber, and I'd flail up after him if only to get to the top. We continued driving, googling tyroleans on our phones on the way.
So we get to Whis, go to buy our lift tickets, and the Aussie at the window looked at us with our climbing packs and asked if we were going hiking.
For simplicities sake, we said yes, hiking, and she informed us that not all trails were open. I told her that it wasn't a problem; we were just headed to the top of Showcase T-bar, and the ensuing conversation went something like this:
Her: Umm, yeah, you can't go there.
Us: Oh, and why not?
Her: Because there's snow on the ground.
Us: It's all right, we're Canadian; we're used to it.
Off we went.
What would have been infinitely more useful in deterring us from continuing our mission, is telling us that since the Whistler Peak was now open, neither the Seventh Heaven lift, nor the bus that would take us down there, were running. Unfortunately for us, she failed to mention this little detail, and we had no idea until we had bought our tickets and were up as far as the lifts would take us.
Whatever. We're there, we're going, even if it means walking. We made the hike up Chainsaw Ridge in under an hour, with only the horizontal traverse across the glacier before us. We also noticed a large helicopter flying around in our vicinity, but payed little attention.
As we started our walk across the glacier, we noticed a fair amount of activity near the top of the t-bar. We assumed it was just WB employees cleaning up and tearing down what was left of the summer camps, and continued on.
Of course, of all the people we talked to on our way up about climbing the Spire, no one had any idea that they were shooting a movie up there. Because no one knew, they couldn't tell us, and now we didn't know until we were already there.
If it isn't obvious already, our expedition was set up for failure from the beginning, and now with fences up on all sides and security keeping a close watch to make sure we didn't do anything..... stupid..... we were kind of just forced to admit defeat.
We chatted with the movie guys for a bit (Perry B, were you in on that?) and found out that they were shooting the sequel for G.I. Joe, and that they wouldn't be done for up to two weeks. Back across the glacier we go, rather annoyed that nothing could have gone right for us that day.
As we started the hike back down the ridge towards the ski lift, my friend and I had the mutual idea that sliding down the couloir would be a much quicker and more fun option than walking all the way back down. In what may probably have been one of the stupidest, but also one of the most fun decisions I have ever made, I basically jumped down into the col ass first, in order to make a quick and cold descent. I was going fast enough that stopping quickly would have been an issue, although I was more concerned about dodging rocks than any sort of crevasse that may have been ahead.
However, that short trip down made the entire trip up worth it. We took the lifts back to the base, went back to Chek in order to get a couple pitches in, and by the time we were actually ready to climb, our hands had just about thawed.
The End
....... and that was a lot longer than I originally intended. Sorry.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2012 - 01:12am PT
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Nice story nath! No need to apologize for a good story.
The haters from squamishclimbing only lurk here, they dont bother to post.
Hello from beautiful penticton, the rain stopped just before we arrived. Should be nice and dry by the morning.
Bruce- i thought they did the caa meetings here specifically so you guys could go climb after! :)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 27, 2012 - 04:07am PT
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that is a funny story, you should have asked for your money back. I have a friend who used to do that, he didn't have a pass & usually hiked or clipped tickets but on the deepest of the deep days & storm days he would go first chair & buy a ticket. Ride the virgin laps till 1030 then go down & complain about the grooming, saying that he was getting stuck everywhere & that the blues were like blacks!!
Sorry for the drift-Winters over & spring is springing
Climbing
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Apr 27, 2012 - 10:55pm PT
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Ghost captioned his photo with...
Raining in Seattle right now, but I can dream..
...because the route is Rainy Day, Dream Away...no?
Do I win something for that?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 27, 2012 - 11:54pm PT
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I wondered if anyone would notice.
So yes, you win a donut and the espresso drink of your choice at Top Pot Donuts, next time you're in Seattle! Yay!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 28, 2012 - 12:40am PT
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Donuts with pot ? Woooooooo.........
Do not joke about this, woman. Doughnuts are serious business, and Top Pot is a serious doughnut and espresso shop.
Here's the place, just around the corner from my office.
I'm not the only one who thinks this is the doughnut capital of the world.
The true test
And their coffee don't suck, either. So if you're passing through Jet City, give me a call, and we'll go for a coffee and doughnuts.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Apr 28, 2012 - 12:42am PT
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Serious Bidness, right there.
One of the best threads there ever was. Even better than the cat & duct tape threads.
'Gracias.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 28, 2012 - 12:53am PT
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that is a funny story, you should have asked for your money back. I have a friend who used to do that, he didn't have a pass & usually hiked or clipped tickets but on the deepest of the deep days & storm days he would go first chair & buy a ticket. Ride the virgin laps till 1030 then go down & complain about the grooming, saying that he was getting stuck everywhere & that the blues were like blacks!!
Looooool. I wonder how many times that worked. Brings me back to the days of strategic scamming of mountain lift tickets. I got a whole year's pass for free during one of those epic snow seasons like 14 yrs ago. After I quit working for them in the summer, they handed me next year's pass at the fall staff party by mistake. Tried it on opening day and it worked. Kept working all year long. 100 days of free pow pow, thanks Whistler Blackcomb!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 28, 2012 - 01:25am PT
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Into the wide...
And if you don't like wide, just move a few meters to your left, and things get really, really thin...
Nico almost pulled it off. He actually made the moves look casual, but he couldn't quite link them all. I think he came back and got the second ascent three years later.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 28, 2012 - 01:54am PT
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This is the easy part
Climbing some 5.14 rock that's shaped like a vag is for pussies. Real men Boogie Till They Puke.
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MH2
climber
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Apr 28, 2012 - 03:26pm PT
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And if you don't like wide, just move a few meters to your left, and things get really, really thin...
Or move a ways right to ah hah handy-sized crack.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 28, 2012 - 03:28pm PT
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What is that? Something new? I'm trying to remember what's right of Boogie til you puke, but am drawing a blank.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 28, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
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You mean left? Bop til you Drop and that aint it.
No. Right. Andy says the hand crack in his photo is to the right of b-t-y-p.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 28, 2012 - 05:51pm PT
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Is it Rainbow Child?
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MH2
climber
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Apr 28, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
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I don't know, either, but chances are it is part of what the guide calls Punk Rock:
"This little crag is east of the Cirque of the Uncrackables, and is a continuation of that same line of crag.
just 3 minutes past the last route on the Cirque. The trail to Above and Beyond passes below this crag."
We saw it on our way back from Split Decision.
409 Too Much Pressure 10b
Peder Ourom John Howe Blake Robinson 1981
The obvious handjam crack. Excellent value.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 28, 2012 - 10:41pm PT
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You'll see that crack after you walk by the Cirque. It's quite short and right on the trail. Very mossy.
For the life of me, I can't find the damn way to Sunblesed anymore. I am notoriously horrible for remembering trails to climbs and have taken many people on "Relic approaches", but the trail to the Solarium completely eludes me. I end up on death slabs or something after I exit the gulley.
Please consult me or hold my hand there.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 29, 2012 - 01:57am PT
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Random selection from a day at Squamish:
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 29, 2012 - 03:34am PT
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Cool photos Ghost. Thanks! Looks like a fun day! I have never climbed @ Solarium, stoked to get up there now.That one probably dries pretty quick as well i would think??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2012 - 10:14am PT
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Bruce k- weren't you in on the ffa of the upper pitches of shining city? What's it like up there?
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Apr 29, 2012 - 10:52am PT
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So is it dry(ish) there today or is it a write off ?
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MH2
climber
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Apr 29, 2012 - 11:32am PT
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Shining City needs a picture. 90-99 % of "Squamish climbers" probably don't know it exists. If something like the picture in the older guide, of Sig Isaac on pitch 3, had made it into a newer guide, then it would be a must-do. Or is there such a guide with such a picture?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 29, 2012 - 01:14pm PT
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Those pitches up @ the bastion look pretty good from the road. I have not had the pleasure of climbing there. When i used to live in Whistler i would, ahem...boulder at the base of the bastion by myself quite often. Some great training grounds in the woods down there & immaculate rock. Definitely a bit of a rain shadow out there too. I've been to suicide a few times as well, some great rock over there too. A few friends spent a lot of time scrubbing & rescrubbing climbs over there, they even made a mini guide. Anyone i have ever tried to convince to check out the bastion has been able to convince me it's a pile, not sure why there is a such a stigma surrounding the place. Many areas would love to have a cliff of that stature around. Gonna have to come up with a new strategy for tricking ppl into going climbing out there. No shortage of good climbing up 99 North.
Last winter i was a little too ambitious & tried to go bouldering out there in March & realized that the snow takes a little longer to go away out there than here @ sea level. I also found this........
just missed out on a snack i guess....or being one!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2012 - 09:39pm PT
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Ryand. No need to convince anyone bud! Im still off for the rest of the week and its supposed to piss in squish so lets go check it out. It might be a little above my pay grade but i know how to climb a rope if necessary. Sounds like it could use a few pics.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 30, 2012 - 12:44am PT
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Anyone i have ever tried to convince to check out the bastion has been able to convince me it's a pile
and
And I'm sure ghost could say similar about washington
No sh#t.
Just back from a day at the Railyard. It was raining on the west side, so we drove over the pass into warm sun and dry rock. And had the place to ourselves.
Not that that is unusual, because we've had it to ourselves since we found it five years ago. But usual or not, it's bizarre. This is a crag in an incredible setting, featuring perfect rock, with climbs from 5.8 to 5.12. The approach is ten minutes, it's no more than an hour and a half from Seattle, and you can climb most of the routes with a rack of draws.
We haven't been keeping the place a secret. In fact we went public with it two years ago. So why did everyone either stay at home and whine about the rain, or drive two-and-a-half hours to climb choss at Vantage?
F*#ked if I know. But same same with the Green River Bastion. Same same with Zeke's Wall. There are six-party line-ups on routes at Squamish and Index, but Zeke's and the Bastion are empty. Likewise the Railyard. And likewise dozens of other terrific climbing areas.
And, if you want to take it to extremes, the two best multi-pitch rock climbing areas I've found in forty years of climbing are the Needles (the California one, not the South Dakota one) and Cochise Stronghold. But since they are not J-Tree, Squamish, Red Rocks, or Yosemite, they are empty. You can go to them and climb the best rock routes in North America, in settings that are mind-meltingly beautiful, and rarely see another person.
Same for crags like the Bastion and Zeke's. These are amazing crags. But, no guidebook = no climbers.
Maybe that's a good thing. Maybe we shouldn't complain. But it's weird to put in the effort to clean a route that you know is as good as anything at Squamish or Index, tell everybody about it, and... Nada
Anyway, just so you know I'm not blowing smoke, here's a shot of our friend Tom (who posts here as Mooser) topping out on one of the climbs at the Railyard. And it's not even one of the really good ones.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 30, 2012 - 02:05am PT
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BigMike,maybe later this week, never climbed there so could be fun! Just stay left. my car's got a busted shock mount so staying close to Squamish for the next few.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2012 - 05:21am PT
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Sounds good ryan! Its pretty wet out this way anyway. Just passed the grb on my way home from the desert.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 30, 2012 - 10:07am PT
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As usual, Casper the Friendly is right again. I've climbed at the Needles and Cochise and they are outstanding. To show how great the routes are, you're even required to make your own belays, as in, with gear! Hurray for real climbing.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2012 - 05:31pm PT
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Just caught up after the roadtrip.
Nice pics everyone!! I can't believe no one posted this after Relic posted that pic of Boogie 'til You Puke. I know most of you have seen it, and some may not find it as humerous as I do but come on... To quote Cedar Wright "Sh#t Happens Man!" :)
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Andrew Burr video.
Ghost- Thanks for the Sunblessed photos. It looks like that area is quite popular these days due to it's aspect. I bet if you were to go back in the summer it wouldn't be quite so busy, although I think the upgraded trail from the Squaw has contributed as well. The railyard looks fun, is it sport, mixed or what? Got any links to some topos for all these "obscure" places? :)
Mh2- Thanks for the pic of Too Much Pressure. That is definetly on my Cirque Of The Uncrackables list. The other ones Punk Rock look like fun too!
Relic- We should definetly climb together more. My navigational skills are excellent but my training regimen is not as stringent as yours. We just gotta get you leading some hard cracks again! :)
I think the Chief webcam is a response to the fact that they have not got the south facing one fixed yet and people use the road in the shot as an indication to whether it's dry or not. So they pointed it at the parking lot, Or maybe the mount slipped. Either way, definetly a bit of "Mental Speculation" on my part :)
BruceK-
yes and it is really good. 2 excellent squamish style cracks pitches then it goes a little wandering and a bit more like mountaineering but still top quality. I still can't believe that 99% of squamish climbers havn't done it.
Thanks for the beta! I think the last part of your quote is probabaly why most people don't go up there. Alot of people tend to be rock snobs these days. I know I am guilty as charged. This thread has inspired me, (and moreso Luke who then inspires me.) that adventure climbing is fun and rock is definetly not the end of the climbing world.
I met Py's buddy Allen from Vernon this weekend, and he was extolling the virtues of Cougar Canyon and some of the other local areas.. Sounds pretty good!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2012 - 05:47pm PT
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screen capture from Andrew Burr's Video
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
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Found this one when I was watching the last link... Never seen anyone on Zombie Roof before.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Rainy Rest Day Productions
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2012 - 08:25pm PT
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Me and Kyle saw this thing before it was cleaned and wondered what it would go at.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Rainy Rest Day Productions
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Apr 30, 2012 - 10:29pm PT
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Only now saw the bit about Freeway a ways back. Sheesh, I'm always behind on this thread.
I just want to say that 1979 was possibly the best year of my life. It was also, sadly, the last year I saw George Manson. That particular trip where George Manson, Tom Gibson, Rob Rohn and I drove up from San Diego to Vancouver to meet up with Perry and Peter(O?) seems just magical to me. From hanging out in Vancouver listening to punk music, to doing some of the Squamish classics and then managing to make a little mark with some first ascents, the trip has special significance for me.
I think George Manson would have made a big mark in the climbing world if he didn't die so young. In fact, if George had lived, I have no doubt that he would have talked me into doing alpine exploits, and my own life's trajectory might have been quite different.
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climberyogi
Boulder climber
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Apr 30, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
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Probably the sickest footage of climbing in squamish i've seen is in Western Gold - http://vimeo.com/39651458
its all bouldering though - not big wall! your pics are pretty awesome! i'm heading out there this summer, hoping to learn how to place gear & get up on the chief!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Apr 30, 2012 - 11:22pm PT
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Yeah, Tami. i think Mike was on that trip as well. And I very much remember meeting and hanging out with you and Peter. Good times...
Peder is Ander's brother? No kidding?
You like the red haired, silent type, eh?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Where is "My Little Pony"?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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My Little Pony is ironically at Chek, the sport climbing area just north of the big orange bridge.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2012 - 04:30am PT
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eeyonkee- That freesolo of Pipeline sounded amazing! Were you called to it the moment you saw it?
I took out a lotta gear from sketchy stances what was put there by somebuddy taller then I ...............so I can feel Jim's pain.
Hahahaha.. You can bet that i've done this to more than a few people.. I try not to but sometimes you just can't help it.. I figure it makes my seconds better.
My Little Pony is ironically at Chek, the sport climbing area just north of the big orange bridge.
It's in Chek Gorge. Just down the road from back-clippers paradise. On the left hand side on the walk in to star chek.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Rob was probably my best partner back in the late 1970s. Taciturn and totally solid he was. We never did any big walls but we did do lots of long free routes in Yosemite together. He would generally come out west with Mike Tschipper and join up with our San Diego crew. I liked Mike a lot.
I may be mis-remembering (me?) about Perry actually suggesting in any way that I solo Pipeline. I'm sure he showed it to me (from a distance), and the Pipeloads name was definitely his idea. I don't believe I had even thought about Pipeline until that day he showed me.
I've got a new goal now - Freeway (if they ever let me back in to Canada).
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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You know, I might just do that...thanks. I was on two of those Bugaboo trips and actually managed a first ascent with Rob. I remember Rob could hike circles around me...and he used to eat a head of lettuce like an apple.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
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Yesterday Fish Boy contacted in the morning to go climb. We decided that Chek would probably be dry,
so I called Relic and I met the fit bus at the end of the well graded road to the upper parking lot.
We decided to warm up on the two easy "multipitches" Charlotte's web and Emil and the Detectives. These routes are
easily led in one pitch and the former is better than the latter at 5.9.
Relic on Charlotte's Web 5.9
We went and had a look at Forgotten Wall and then someone said "The base of the grand will be dry, let's go do Exasperator!"
Nick hadn't hit it yet and had a small rack so we went and hit it up.
Nick starts out on Exasperator 5.10c
Getting some gear in before the crux
Bypassing the chains with a nut
That's one long pitch!
He chose to hand traverse to the anchor!
But paid for it dearly.
We top roped it to save time since it was allready sprinkling.
Relic
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Well it doesn't get much better than that. On my first attempt I only made it 25 feet off the deck; had to sheepishly lower off a stopper cause I didn't know how to jam. A little embarassing.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Haha & how long after that were u solo down climbing it in approach shoes Hamish!!
Edit: cool photos, again, always. Thanks!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Poor Fish boy, only like 10 feet from the anchor and his foot popped on the slick, freshly rained on slab. Oh well, blame it on the rain. Gotta love those just barely squeak out a bonus climbing day before the rain pours down days.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2012 - 09:57pm PT
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your pics are pretty awesome! i'm heading out there this summer, hoping to learn how to place gear & get up on the chief!
Thanks climberyogi! Ya the chief is cool. Lots of good moderates in the bluffs to train on and on the apron to multipitch on! Western Gold looks like a cool video.
Hamishf- I was quite impressed myself. The first time I got on that pitch I managed to scrap my way to the anchor but just barely. Then I somehow managed to get to the top of the next pitch on tr. But not clean.
This time I almost got it clean but my stupid finger is still bugging me a bit and my foot work wasn't the best but neither was the spitting rain.
Ryand and Tami, thanks for the compliments. Since ya'll liked em so much, maybe a couple more?
Nick on Exasperator. Me in a tree.
Putting in some pro
Stretching it out before the top
gf got any more details to go with that story? sounds like a fun climb!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2012 - 10:01pm PT
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I know Andy is thinking.. Hmm he went to the base of the grand, did he take any Java Jive/Teabag Tango pictures??
Yes! and if you weren't, Surprise! :)
The 7 feet, the Hand Jive, and the trouble-with-words thing prompts me to ask about a line in the McLane guide from 2005:
"Make a 7 1/2 foot dyno down into Java Jive (13a)."
I can't see the body language that goes with that.
Teabag Tango on the right, Java Jive on the left.
Close up
Any hardmen in the house? Marc? We should shoot this!
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Java Jive p1 is such a great climb, too bad it has that ankle breaker second bolt clip
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Ya, way to go: such a primo crack. That pic. taken from the tree of Nick leading... that's where I backed off from on my first attempt.
Definitely a little-leaguer.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2012 - 10:38pm PT
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How old were you then hamish? I never even attempted it till i knew i was ready.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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(MH posts obscure and lengthy story here, more or less copied from a Squamish history thread, about early free ascents of Exasperator, including murky climbing and p'terodactyl photos, but none about gondolas. Polite but somewhat muted applause follows.)
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Great photos Mike, cheers. Look forward to touching rock again with you guys again.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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I knew I probably wasn't ready so I attempted it anyway. Tender age of 13 I believe.1978.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
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Funny mh. :) this would be a good time for a link to said story.
I thought perydactles just followed you everywhere? Thanks for you efforts on the gondola thread. How is the land swap i proposed going? ;)
"I knew I wasn't ready so I tried it anyways."
The mark of a great adventurer. Thank you again for inspiring me not to be so calculated.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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OK, here's a story. The first time I did Exasperator (the first pitch) was in early 1974, in rain and snow. We kicked steps up about the first third.
The second time was with Eric. He soloed the first pitch, trailing a rope, got to the belay, threaded the rope, and self-lowered. Then I top-roped it. About a week later Eric and Dave cleaned (a bit) and freed the second pitch. (With 50 m ropes, you had to do it in two.) The second pitch then featured two or three helpful shrubberies.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2012 - 11:09pm PT
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Fish boy thanks! Weather looks good this weekend! Let's hit er up!
Mh- ya i can see a few shrubberies being helpful for sure! I'd never linked the two till the other day. It is spectacular!
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MH2
climber
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Nice going, Big Mike, photo-, climb-, and stoke-wise.
I like Java Jive and have been on it several times, though only doing the second pitch twice.
Teabag Tango is beyond my comprehension let alone ability.
The next one over, Miss Led, is a different story. The guide puts it 15m right of Java Jive. FA 1973 by Hugh Burton, Jim Sinclair and Jeannine Caldbeck-in-parentheses; FFA Perry and Hamish in 1982. I started up it thinking 12a might be doable but rapidly regressed to A0. Above the bolts there was an exciting because poorly protected traverse left to a dike. Then the dike, which is God's way of saying, "CLIMB HERE", goes up to a large tree, the same tree we go to on Raindance. After getting you to the dike, the McLane guide says "Mostly bolts." We took that to mean the protection for the dike. We were wrong. There were no bolts on the dike. God must have also said, "NO BOLTS HERE." The "mostly bolts" I guess refers to the climb overall.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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There are several versions of the first ascent of the route, and its name. IIRC, Gary Brace freed or nearly freed the bottom bolt ladder, c 1975.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Miss Led was always fun. Well, it was fun before it became a 5.12 free climb. But Andy's comment about the leftward traverse reminded me of hearing from my first Squamish climbing partner that a friend of his had fallen from that traverse and sliced open a butt cheek on one of the bolt hangers below. I remember them being the home-made kind featuring thick aluminum plate bent at a right angle.
As the story went, the slice was serious enough to require stitches. I think the victim's name was Les Priest. Anyone remember him?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Phil, and Len Soet, did what was probably the first clean ascent of University Wall in 1977. Not sure exactly what they did, but that was the story.
Les was a forceful character, IIRC quite active in union/progressive causes. Someone said he'd moved to Smithers at some point.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2012 - 01:32am PT
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If I recall correctly It was he who the naked march of the kitchen utensils stemmed past on thier historic assault on diedre.
ok what? do tell :)
Edit: Nice pics btw MH. They have excellent detail.. they could look amazing with the right color correction in photoshop!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Man the quality is absolutely awful, the editing is poor, the only thing good about the video is the soundtrack, which was illegally stolen, and it doesnt even include the best verse...
`What makes a man is the woman in his arms just cuz she has big titties OR is it that was he fights everyday, NO ITS PROBABLY THE TITTIES. Now your a Maaow, a maow maow maow, now your a maymaymaow a maow maow maow maow.`
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oiXaT_1I-vw
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MH2
climber
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Actually it puts across the chimneying thing really well.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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I used big mike as my the dummy to test out my hip belay skills, I lied to him and told him I do it all the time!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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haha awesome vid Luke, that song is so funny lol, perfect chimney climbing tunes.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Just wanted to also put in a good word about Mike Tschipper, whom struck up a friendship with me back in the early eighties. I liked his calm and quiet manner and of course his solid style on the sharp end which inspired me to push myself harder when climbing with him. The highlight of our days climbing together in Squamish was putting up Poltergeist on the beautiful crag that watches over Browning Lake at Murrin park.
So very sad how things turned out for him.
Peace to you bro ...
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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I don't know why people have to slag the hip belay. Outstanding flexability for starters. What other type of belay lets you haul in so much slack, if needed?
There's a great Steve Mconnel story out there about Daryl holding some massive fall of Steve's.... only because he could reel in so much rope. I think he would've decked otherwise.
G.F., half a world away, might have a better recollection of that fall...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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First year I climbed I caught a 30-foot factor-1 on a hip belay with no damage to hips or hands. Or to the leader who wound up dangling beside me. The fall was completely unexpected and I was pretty much a noob -- recipe for total disaster. And yet the hip belay worked perfectly.
I have no idea why it has been written off as some kind of unsafe leftover from climbing's dark ages.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
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But not you guys!!!!!!!!!!!!! You can tell just by Mikes hair doo
I have also practiced the hip belay, although not as much as luke. :) I forgot my atc at the crux belay on sparrow thanks to the auto brake and brought Heather up on the 10a crux hip belay style. She wasn't too impressed but I thought I could have held her fall.
Thanks BK. Guess my lack of haircut says alot about my opinion of "society" in general :)
I would like to hear the tale of Mike T, if it does not hurt too much in the telling.
I found out one of my early musical influences died today. Adam Yauch of the Beastie Boys.
RIP MCA!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Mike, why not munter hitch her up? Screw the hip belay.
Lol that video is awful. Sorry but ya...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2012 - 02:27pm PT
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I tried but the knot escaped me at the time.. Embarassing I know.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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There's an 80's retro party at the Hive bouldering gym tonight. Wearing my hexes tri cams and forged friends to it. I need some sleezy spandex. Pee pee stains are ok I guess. Someone go get Dean H. For me!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Not if yer hopin' fer a hookup with some hottie.
So, from your perspective (as an erstwhile hottie), what kind of stains do you think would be best?
a) beer stains
b) c#m stains
c) food stains
d) mysterious unidentifiable stains
e) other stains (please specify)
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Nothing like an 80's sausage party....in tights
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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^^^^^
Sounds terrifying, 80's parties are so 90's.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Ya I know Bruce, it's pretty weak but who gives a crap. Jangling cowbells is all I got, and maybe some old punk shirt. Screw spending $.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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A little bit of thought gives me the feeling that if a lot of dudes were there in stained lycra tights, any guy wearing a rugby shirt and white painters' pants would probably have his pick of the single women there.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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I'm happy to hear that u will at least be wearing a punk shirt Relic. Hopefully it's long enough to cover the cloven hoof.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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This is a great thread! So many of the epics and misadventures mirror our groveling, dirt digging, lichen scrubbing, and bug swatting in the Adirondacks, but especially with the crew at Pokomoonshine.
Thanks
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MH2
climber
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Whoa, David. That was a lonnnnggggg timeago. Back before kids from the gym were romping up the Towers of Paine. When there was still ice.
edit:
that must be reflection from the cornice glinting on my glasses
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Ghost you sure got a lot of gear for burgers and fries.
Hip belays kick ass, 'specially when Simul climbing, you can feed the rope in and out so much faster
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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I just can't make it through a week without embarrassing myself on this site...
While we're on belay stories....
My first attempt on the mighty split pillar was with a buddy named Phil. We were both too young and useless to climb it but there we were anyway, fully psyched.
It was hot, no shirts weather up there. I was to give it a go first and I do recall that thing looking overwhelmingly steep and long. Up I go, easing myself up onto that little perch at the start of the laybacking. I wiggled in a couple of roped hexes, as friends hadn't been invented yet(or I couldn't afford them, or a combo), and they looked pretty good. A couple deep breaths and I start laybacking up, and up. Before too long I realize there's no way I'm going to be able to place any more gear, in fact there's no way I'm hanging on very much longer at all. I think I downclimbed a fair way back and took a fall on those hexes. Right on, another route that's way over my head. Dumbass.
Next it's Phil's turn. Phil was substantially bigger than me, not that that meant too much, so I clipped the rope through a biner on my Whillan's harness before passing it around my skinny little shirtless waist. Oh ya, I had all the tricks of a modern climber.
Phil had got himself a pair of Vasque ascenders for footwear and they were pretty firm, and not too sticky, to say the least. Up he goes, laybacking past my two hexes for all he was worth. About 10 or 15 feet above the nuts he starts moaning a lot and things are going bad at a fast pace. He's stuck in the layback position, unable to deal with any gear; unable to do anything, really.
He explodes off the rock and, screaming, flies past me, upside down. He landed way underneath me, on the bolt ladder, upside down. I had the hip belay on full lock mode but unfortunately a fold of my skin had gotten sucked through the biner with the rope. I can't express how much that hurt.
Phil is hanging upside down yelling and I'm in even worse pain with part of my stomach sucked through the biner and completely pinched by the rope still. I'm looking down at my poor stomach and it's bleeding all around the biner and man oh man, does it ever hurt.Thank god the bolt ladder was there so Phil could put his weight on a bolt while I extricated my stomach fold from the oval.
Somehow we untangled ourselves, left those two hexes, and got the hell outta there. Obviously way over our heads.
Another day with the hip belay...
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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That doesn't ring a bell Tami. 34 years later, some of those bells become pretty distant though. Couple of Hacks, that's for sure.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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What an Epic pitch. Glad we finally figured it out.
Off topic but I did a new trail in Britannia ystrdy so when that tin can touches down in Canada, grab ur nomad and charge up the sound asap. It's 5 star.
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MH2
climber
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Hahahaha! It may have happened a while ago, Hamish, but it certainly hasn't gotten old. That's a great story grippingly told.
Not a Squamish story, but I got tested on the hip belay in 1968 in a park by the Sekonk river in Providence, Rhode Island. The university outing club had a letter of permission from the city to use a big tree. The system was to run the (goldline) rope through a biner attached to a high branch. For a test weight the club used 2, not 1 but 2 signs from a parking lot that were set in concrete bases. The new belayer was tied in to the tree trunk. A car was needed to haul up the weights, with the rope slip-knotted to a bumper. It was tricky to get the knot so that it would still release under tension.
When the car had lifted the weight high enough, the belayer was supposed to let out 10 feet of slack, catch the fall, and then escape the system by putting a prusik on the rope in front and clipping it to the tie-in behind them. It worked, but once a small woman got whipped up into the air and looked like she might get cut in half or pass out before following the proper procedure. She did fine. No wonder we always had a police car or two stop to see what was going on. That was what the city letter was for.
We all used hip belay for a few years, until the stich plate came along. We were pretty careful not to fall, though.
Goldline would stretch under body weight but the forces on a falling climber could be dangerously high if the stop came too abruptly. We wore a glove on the belay hand and the rope would run through it for a ways when catching a fall. That was the dynamic belay.
Years later I was told that someone from the club finally weighed the parking signs: 150 lbs.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
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Hahahaha! Glad im not the only person to dog his way up the pillar! ;) I thought i was ready for it at the time, til i got there and looked at the thing!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Ghost you sure got a lot of gear for burgers and fries.
Not me Kid. I just had a camera. It's that well-known gear freak MH2. Probably about to dog his way up Dusty Eyes or something, with Ed & Helen.
On the subject of the Pillar, my first go at it was pathetic, too. Climbed Cruel Shoes with Peter Shackleton and Chris Murrell. They were both climbing strongly at the time, and I think I was mostly changing diapers and not sleeping much. One of them led the Pillar, and then I started up. Chugged up the thin part thinking "I should have demanded the lead. This is cake." But as soon as it got too wide for my small hands...
Must have hung on that rope about fifty times on the rest of the way up.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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As long as no one wants me to put the rope up, I'm in.
Why limit one's embarrassment to the computer.
That Rhode Island story pretty much takes the cake.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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We should do a young/middle/older farts climbing day sometime. Big arsed hootenanny at the base of the Grand or something. Huh? Who's in say 'eye' !
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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We should do a young/middle/older farts climbing day sometime.
We're planning to be in Squamish next weekend. Either Thursday through Sunday or Friday through Monday. As long as the weather looks okay, that is.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The first time I did the Split Pillar I nailed the crap out of it. No problem, though it took a while.
Edit: OK, I used about 1/3 nuts. Wiggling in hexes and stuff.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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I think STUCK should make Monday a split pillar day. Or tomorrow even. Bonus mini-chimney at top makes it a legit stuck event.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Haha awesome FTOTSP stories everyone!! My first time up I was seconding & had no biz being there. A few yrs later I was back & I was bad ass. Ready to send the rig, as some would say. My friend Josh & I had already simul climbed the apron/butress that morning(pitched out the crux) & then chilled out until later in the afternoon in my backyard talking trash & generally feeling as though we were the coolest guys in town for we were about to do TWO routes up the chief in a day, y'know TC styles.
Anyways, at some point we headed up there & made it to the BOTSP in no time, I was Psyched & seeing as I had red pointed the butress @ 10c earlier that morning I figured that this should be a piece of piss, after all we were baddass, right?. I cruised up the start jamming away, having a good time for awhile. Placed my #3 when it got a little wide & got ready to start laybacking, i had a #4 with me but Josh-who crushes, had sprayed me down & told me to just gun it for the jug & that i shouldnt even have brought the #4, he said I would surely pump out if I tried to place it out of the layback & my chances of becoming famous would greatly decline. What if I fall from up there? I asked. You can't fall from up there was his reply, nobody falls from the jug.
I was pretty pumped at this point but still feeling fairly cool. Kinda like the kid in high school with the fake ID feels when he's in the booze store, he's the man- but deep down knows that he's getting away with some bullsh!t & could quite easily get caught if he doesn't play his cards right.
So I head up the layback section, running it out a good 25' or so to the jug which I latch victoriously, then simultaneously something strange happens..
For some reason I subconciously decide to paste my right foot up high & remove my left foot from the crack, effectively creating a wonderful barn door sensation which caused me to pop right off & proceed to take the biggest whipper of my life. Somehow I ended up about 15 feet above Josh who obviously had some rope out. He got slammed into the belay pretty good & I was miraculously unscathed besides a little pain in my shoulder & the immediate petrifying feeling that I would have to go back up there, that i did not send the rig, and that i was so far from badass or cool that it wasnt even funny, i had just spent about 2.5 seconds flying thru the air shrieking like a little girl with a spider on her arm. We hung out for a bit until I stopped trembling and Josh's knees were confirmed to be just a little banged up. I went back up there & at the not so surprisingly new advice of Josh smashed the #4 in midway thru the layback & finished the pitch.
What a ride that was. What a pitch. I always have a little chuckle when I'm in the boulders & hear that piercing shriek coming down thru the trees & know that someone else just got the same pleasure that I went through at one time.
Serious respect for any of u psychos who used to lap that thing with hexes & clipping rusty bolts.
edit: And a hip belay
Any story's from the pillar FFA???
That must have been quite a breakthrough at the time.
Please let me know if u guys are playing the Exasperator speed climbing game, I have no interest in top rope speed climbing but am a big enthusiast of throwing beer cans at people & can't say I've ever had the pleasure of doing it to someone who is climbing!
Enjoy the sun everyone!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Splitter pillar is just a mere warm up at Indian Creek. We are all light.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Hey RyanD, we should take bigmike and Thekidcorm for a session on Crackhead in the boulders. Their eyes lit up when I showed it to them before doing Exasperator the other day.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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That's a pretty good idea Relic, corrupt them with boulder problems that have the word "crack" in them! Before they know it they'll be addicted to the "practice" rocks! Stoned out of their skulls with dreadlocks & matresses strapped to their backs, various different toilet & denture brushes in their pockets & taped onto long sticks. After crackhead we can get them on quest for pain & buns up & squealing, all the traddy boulder problems, there's another roof crack problem in there too, can't remember the name though...let me know!
And though the climbing on the pillar may be a warmup in the creek, the position & exposure can't compare, Jim B nailed it with his comments -it's a whole different ball game when u grab the sharp end on the pillar for the first time & as shown by the stories here u are not likely to forget it!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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And though the climbing on the pillar may be a warmup in the creek, the position & exposure can't compare
There are places where the Pillar wouldn't be the most amazing climb on the crag, but Indian Creek ain't one of them. Creek's just a silly outdoor crack gym. If the Split Pillar was at the Creek, it would be the most coveted climb there.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
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Not only granite Bruce, Squamish granite. Which im told has special qualities. (i haven't been lucky enough to have sampled too many other kinds.)
i've been too busy climbing to post up this weekend. I got some pics edited last night, so should be able to get them on tonight when i get home!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2012 - 04:55am PT
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and remember that if the right side is getting a little ho-hum, just step over to the left side to up the ante on all counts.
+1
Relic: Sure - may I suggest a beer fueled speed top roping Exasperator competition? That would be resurecting a time honored tradition!
also Remember to bring cans, not bottles. The idea is that the climber must first withstand a barrage of empties until out of range. Another "handicap" is If you don't make it to the half way anchors by a certain highly optimistic time frame, 20 feet of penalty slack is doled out for the crux.
+1000
This has to happen! :) Especially if it's a "time horored traditon!". May I suggest next Sunday since Ghost is supposed to be in town? Perhaps 4ish late enough that most onlookers or suiters will be gone? Maybe earlier ;p Relic you can get the afternoon off right?
I told my pillar story within the first 22 messages so most of you have probably read it but here it is again for those who have not and what the hell it seems appropriate.
I led the pillar for my first time ever on the Summer Solstice this year. It was after work and still early season for me so it totally drained me. I had to rest on just about every piece on the way up.. At the top i had to transfer all the gear off my harness to get into the squeeze.. just barely!
When i got to the top and clipped the anchors, i looked up and understood immediately why they call it the "Sword of Damocles"! It looks like a giant guillotine just waiting to slice your melon!
I will add that when I got up to the base of that pillar and clipped into the anchor I was allready huffing and puffing from freeing all the way to the aid ladder and Ben had kindly left slings on the bolts instead of just draws like Josh did for Kyle.
I looked up at the mighty Split Pillar and I said to Ben "I don't think I can lead this thing today." So he says "We came all the way up here so you could do it man!".
We weren't really in any hurry because we both knew that I had come up here to test myself for the Grand Wall, and we were using my half ropes, which neither of us were 100% on the handling belay wise.
So I chilled for a bit, gathered my courage, and shouldered a hefty rack of cams before I set off into the void.
Anyways, You know the rest of the story I brought Ben up, we witnessed a truly once in a lifetime sunset at about 10pm and we peaced outta dodge. When we got down to the boulders it was very dark and neither of us had a light, so we stumbled out in the dark and made our way to the pub. :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2012 - 05:14am PT
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Luke says hi!
Hardingesque Camp 2 on Uncle Ben's
Little dots.
I Need one of those big football lenses for this stuff!!
This was last night, I talked to him briefly and he said that he'd fixed two pitches that day. I heard they got thier camp moved up to P4 today, but didn't get a chance to go get any shots before we left town.
They probaby got a couple more fixed today, so they should finish up sometime tomorrow.
Here is a story my buddy Kieran posted up about the ascent to camp 2. http://browniephoto.com/blog/
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MH2
climber
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Hi back to Luke.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Way to go hammock-hangers; stellar effort in early may.
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c-plus
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC, Canada
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May I suggest next Sunday since Ghost is supposed to be in town? Perhaps 4ish late enough that most onlookers or suiters will be gone? Maybe earlier ;p Relic you can get the afternoon off right?
Party at the Grand! Sounds like fun. Count me in!
And thanks to everyone for all their stories. It's been a great read...
-Cyrus
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Got out today with Relic...started after 3pm...
Big ups to Luke, hammocks suck but you guys looked solid up there.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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The power washer job looks hideous. Who did that?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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I'm betting $5000 Anders had nothing to do with that scrub job.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2012 - 01:02am PT
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Ya I was telling Kyle today that we should go back and blend it out a bit so you can't tell so much.
Thanks FishBoy nice pics! Old Style ain't just some 5.9.. It is a pretty sweet 5.9.
Gotta get on caboose.
Andy- Nice pic! Where did you take that one from? What do you shoot with?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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What's the story with Cider Crack above it. I never noticed it BITD. Probably was covered in foliage. When did it get done?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2012 - 01:10am PT
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Tami and Peter did it. Any memories Tami?
OK I'm in so long as there's no fantastic new revelations about the gondola that needs immediate attention.... but maybe we could get WiFi from the base? We could all bring our lap tops (I guess I just revealed my age there.... Crack Berries I meant).
Well hopefully some of the people from that thread can come and maybe you can have a discussion about it in person? Which would probably be even more funny than the online one. If not I'll have my phone. You'll hate it, but it can post to supertopo. ;)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Old style/cider crack/with the 10d crack-traverse-slab finish is an awesome link up! Robin barley obviously recleaned that wall & even though it looks brutal you should have seen it before a pretty crusty number for sure. A friend an i did grub street a few years back before the rescrub & it was exciting! you had to do a mantel into a 2' deep ledge of salal & dirt that was so spooky with tiny gear a ways below! Now it's buffed so it shines, like crime of the century without the strollers. First time i did cider crack it was filthy as well, branches & lichen everywhere, so many good pitches down there! I think the log bridge is all good or has been rebuilt.
Edit: Is there a name for that 10d finish i mentioned? Anyone?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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So just what is the state of things on the Malemute these days? Given the pictures on this page, climbers are obviously active on at least some routes on the lower tier. Is everything available? Just certain areas? Or is it all done with one eye out for the man?
Does anybody climb Chasing Rainbows these days? Hugely under-appreciated climb. And what about Quagmire Crack? I always thought it was one of the best pitches at Squamish, but it didn't get a whole lot of love either.
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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hola climbers..
long time lurker, first time poster here..
thought I'd share this rock porn of the kid from last weekends grand wall adventures..
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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There were a couple of parties in the no trespass zone. Still not supposed to be there but... enforcement is nonexistent. Chasing Rainbows, the first pitch is grown over. I did both pitches a decade and a bit ago, 2nd pitch was really good. I suspect it is grown over too. Quagmire Crack is in pristine shape, super clean. You can rap into it.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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That last pitch of Chasing Rainbows was destined to be a classic 30 years ago. One of the best pitches down there. J.H. route, I believe.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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That last pitch of Chasing Rainbows was destined to be a classic 30 years ago. One of the best pitches down there. J.H. route, I believe.
That's exactly how I felt about it. The first pitch is okay mostly because you know you're climbing The Black Dyke, rather than because the climbing is all that good, but the second pitch was a stunner. I had absolutely no idea what was up there when I got on it way back when, cuz you can't really see it from below, but wow, what a fine lead. (And yes, I'm pretty sure it was John's). Someone should give the bottom pitch a quick scrub so that people can start enjoying p. 2 again.
And for any of you young guys reading this, get your asses to the base of Quagmire Crack (from either above or below) and get on it. Four-star climbing on a long pitch in a spectacular location.
Edit: And speaking of John Howe, and pressure washing etc, I remember many years ago when word of the environmental destruction that passes for cleaning at Squamish seeped southward, somebody wrote a long rant in one of the mags about how horrible this was. When John saw it, he said "They just don't understand. Up here, the trees are winning."
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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+10000 for Quagmire, maybe best 5.10 crack in town.
Tried to do fungus razor once to get there, let's just say that by the time we were done with it we wound up walking back the trail instead. Very, very cool climb I need to go back to someday. The mantle is heinous but the traverse over to it is awesome!
Seems to rhyme with the name of someone who posts here?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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+10000 for Quagmire, maybe best 5.10 crack in town.
Well, there might be a couple of other contenders, but QC has to be on the short list.
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'Mo
Big Wall climber
Squamish, BC
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Those pix above show there is an anchor right above the lip. Who put that in? I don't recall that being there when we did it.
Hello Tami,
I put those anchors in in 2010. They make it possible to lower to the ground with a 60m rope.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2012 - 11:46am PT
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Big Mike
Let me get this straight. You took a Power Washer to the crag fired it up and power washed all the vegetation off the climb above?
Bruce is right, no I had nothing to do with this, simply enjoyed the fruits of thier labour. What I was saying was my buddy (who is a professional painter and very skilled with a pressure washer) and I should go down there with a pressure washer and blend out the marks so it looks more natural.
Big Mike you do know down here we get 300 days of sun and there are 100 Squamishes in the high country with nothing but clean splitter granite that you can walk right up to and start climbing without a wire brush or a pressure washer.
Ahhh.. I have heard the tales of such beautiful stone but alas not yet had a chance to sample it. FA's around here are a rather dirty affair, which probably explains my prefrence for classics and newly unearthed gems... I do have one to my credit now, thanks to Luke (which still needs some scrubbin!) and I saw another one that was worthy of my attention yesterday.
Kieran! Welcome buddy! Nice pic! Hope to see a few more.. there's still a couple good ones from Sandra's Dirty Rope that I haven't touched yet.
Chasing Rainbows, the first pitch is grown over. I did both pitches a decade and a bit ago, 2nd pitch was really good. I suspect it is grown over too.
Not true, Kyle went and looked at Chasing Rainbows P2 the other day and he said it looks good. You can walk there on the old trail then take a left onto the bench before you get to the railway tracks.
Well, there might be a couple of other contenders, but QC has to be on the short list.
Lower Malemute has a bunch of awesome mid 10's Cresent Crack, Hand Jive, Caboose, Quagmire, Cling Peaches (that's the pitch you were looking for Ryand!)
Kyle and I rapped down on a fixed line to Quagmire 4 or 5 years ago and ushba'd out of there. It was hard to start and then sustained the whole way. I definetly need to go back.
Edit: And speaking of John Howe, and pressure washing etc, I remember many years ago when word of the environmental destruction that passes for cleaning at Squamish seeped southward, somebody wrote a long rant in one of the mags about how horrible this was. When John saw it, he said "They just don't understand. Up here, the trees are winning."
That explains one of KM's captions...
Got a couple nice shots this past weekend of some cragging. Showed up at Neat and Cool and saw these gents.
Nathan on Lieback Flake 5.9 R
Fish belays for fun.
We chose to amble down the trail a bit to a less busy crag.
Kyle starts out Gord's Block 11a
The crack is mashing his untaped hands.
Stemming on Gord's Block
He didn't get much further than this unfortunatly.
Nina led Picket Line 5.9
Grant on Supervalue 10c
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2012 - 11:51am PT
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As far as the Lower Malemute goes, anything that's not within 15m of the tracks is considered fair game.
I actually spent a week in Squamish where the sun shown every day till the last night and I woke up floating on my therma rest in my tent in that campground on top of the hill. It was great the rain forest canopy in camp was amazing. Probably in my top 5 favorite places to be and climb.
I went to Skaha the week after what a transition and a great place as well. All of this was some 20 years ago, man would I love to spend a few weeks up there again.
What did you climb while you were up here Silver?
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MH2
climber
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Big Mike, you are doing credit to the thread title.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Big mike! Hey i don't think it's Cling peaches i'm talking about. Cling peaches if i'm not mistaken starts on agonal then goes straight up?? I haven't done it but i'd like to. The one i'm talking about goes straight up from the anchor at the top of cider crack. Some nice crack climbing that gets thin thru a little bulge, then a funky traverse through some overlaps until you step left again up onto a slab with a few bolts, probably about 40m or so & an awesome pitch. Maybe this is knuckleduster??? A good one to do on the ushba.
Sorry but i think Quagmire dominates all the cracks you mentioned. Don't get me wrong those climbs are all amazing- But QC is steep, exposed, sustained, long (40m), with so much variety & different sections, fingers, hands, a big flake you get to bear hug & even a classic squamish tufa that you mantel on(stump), not to mention it's up there a bit right smack in the middle of a beautiful white shield of granite on one of the best cliffs around. The only negative is you need to rap in or climb your choice of a heinous chimney flare(canadian compromise?) or dirty barley route (smithereens) or Fungus razor (good luck) to get there. Not sure why it isn't more popular these day...
You guys should go do it tonight & take some sunset photos!! They would be spectacular!
Cool photos again everyone, thanks! I agree that if possible, pressure washing is a stroke of ingenuity. Here's a shot from near the base of a cliff where i did not pressure wash a few climbs, but instead ripped my knuckles apart brushing. Should be ready to go soon, just need it to dry out a bit & go send! Nice place to be when it's hot.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Next time there's Bluegrass at the BAG, come on out.
Where/what is the BAG? Down here, BAG is just shorthand for Bar and Grill. As in "The Sixth Avenue BAG" or "Joe's BAG" etc.
And will Parry be playing there this w/e?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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You should do the route in the original style of the first ascentionists or leave it alone.
Or, if you really believe that an improvement on the original is in order, approach the first ascentionists and ask for their thoughts on the matter.
To alter a much-respected classic simply for one's own convenience, without asking either the original climbers or the community at large, is seriously uncool.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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So people DO contact climbers about adding bolts to routes.
I know. I thought about mentioning Jeremy. But there have been plenty of other cases where first ascenders have done something dumb, and later been quite happy to have someone else make a change for the better. Mostly though, routes were done the way they were for a reason, and ought to be climbed as they are or left alone.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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RyanD, the pitch you are talking about is on Grub Street, the upper 10c pitch. Yes it is good to Ushba. Cool crack.
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MH2
climber
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Somewhere in the vicinity.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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A closer look at mine and Ruperts bivy on Uncle Bens
The only thing lamer then aid climbing?!?
AID CLIMBING WHILE LISTENING TO MTN FM
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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That last picture is fantastic Luke!
Good pictures Mike. I had only climbed Lieback Flake once before on TR, and figured I'd lead it while waiting for the Circus to open up. I was expecting a bit more than only 2 pieces of pro, and it got a little spooky above that bolt.....
Funny story about Grant there: Last week I went to a buildering meetup at UBC. It was cool seeing some of the routes that Dick Culbert and some other old timers put up there. Anyways, I met up with a couple people there, including Marc-Andre (who I had met once before, but never climbed with) and Grant and Megan.
Fast forward to Sunday. I took a bus up to Taylor Way and stuck out my thumb at the onramp. Ten or fifteen minutes passed with no luck, and then a cop pulled up. I grabbed my bag, half hoping he would drive me up, and the exchange went something like this:
Cop: Hey, where you headed?
Me: Squamish....? (wondering if it's a trick question due to my rope, shoes, water, hanging off my backpack)
Cop: What are you planning on doing there?
Me: ......Rock climbing.....? (now really confused)
Cop: You hitch hike often?
He didn't give me any trouble..... just told me as long as I wasn't on the highway or impeding traffic, I was all good. He said that it's West Van so someone would probably end up calling it in.
Anyways, he drives off, I stick my thumb back out, and an SUV pulls up. I run up, and completely randomly, it happens to be Grant and Meg from the preceding Wednesday. I drove up with them, and ended up climbing with them and their friends for the day.
Small world, eh?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Haha that's awesome Luke! Mountain FM, the soundtrack of all sea to sky tradesmen! Alanis morissette & roxette all the way. Those photos are sick BTW the one of u with the beer looks like its from 1975 for some reason??!
Hey Relic I think your right about that pitch being part of grub st, I thought it might have a name of its own as I was always under the impression that grub st was the 5.11 finger crack pitch right of cider crack but I guess not, which one is knuckleduster??
Bruce the pool is, like most climbing around here just a 5 min walk from the hwy, not a malmute or nothing but there's 2 climbs there as of now -one fully bolted 5.11 called "salmon handcuffs" which climbs really nice & one mostly bolted 11+/12- that should be done soon at which point I'll put up a topo here. Nice place to stop at the end of the day for a shower in mid summer. The rock is Murrin-esque & close to vertical. Theres a few easier cracks there as well which I don't think I could be bothered to scrub at this point but yea if u had a pressure washer or just loved scrubbing there could be a few more lines from 5.8-10.
I'm pretty sure 'Mo meant no disrespect by adding the station. It seems as though the reason was purely functional & if it draws more traffic to what had become an obscure climb due to the now pain in the ass legistics involved with climbing down there it may actually not be such a bad thing. Asking would have been nice sure, but I don't think what he did detracts from the nature of the climb, I'm sure if u are that bummed about it Tami he would probably tear it down but when I tried it I was glad it was there so when we got to the top we could bail & get the hell out of there before the rail cops showed up & I would be forced to tell them my name was Wayne Lemieux. I have a pretty good idea who he is & he has greatly contributed to climbing in Squam & will probably continue to do so for years, not to mention he's a super nice dude. Maybe he will reveal himself & start wasting time on here as well with some stories & photos??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2012 - 12:11am PT
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Big Mike, you are doing credit to the thread title.
Thanks mh2! I try :) I'm happy people enjoy it, you can thank Pat Ament. He inspired me to take more photos with his Old Photos thread. He showed me that capturing images of his past and friends was irreplaceable, and got me thinking about how many times I'd wished I had my camera in the past rather than leaving it at home because it's a nuisance.
The most important part of course is that I enjoy it, and I do, every aspect.
Nice picture of Cling Peaches.. Luke led that one when we were down there recently... a fine pitch
Here's another one for the Supervalue fans.
Grant makes his way around the corner.
Relic is correct it is Grub Street. Knuckleduster is the thin dirty crack directly above the top of Cider crack. If you have two ropes you can fix one at the Grub Street anchor then rap to the cider belay and fix the next and climb the whole Malemute on ushba!
Luke hahhahahaa "I would rather listen to static than Mountain FM" :)
Nice, I was gonna ask you to post those pics!
That's funny Nath.. :) I did warn you about Lieback Flake ;)
Funny you should mention Dick Culbert. I saw this the other day while trying to find a picture for another post.
http://vimeo.com/27064156
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 10, 2012 - 12:22am PT
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Ok Mike now I'm really tripping balls here, correct me if I'm wrong- Grub street is 3 pitches. It's starts on old style, then climbs the 5.11 crack right of cider crack then finishes up the 10c which I speak of?? Yes??
And cling peaches I believe is climbers right of the crack/face shown in MH2s awesome photo, Robin told me one day when I ran into him down there that the pitch shown in MH2's photo, which is directly above the thin 5.11 crack on grub st is a new bolted/crack route that finishes up on the left side of stooges slab whereas cling peaches starts on Agonal & finishes on the right side of stooges??? Sorry if I make no sense & not like it really matters but there's a few new pitches down there & my guide doesn't explain it very well in the first place. My brain & fingers hurt from too much climbing & thinking of climbing, kind of feels good :-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2012 - 12:33am PT
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Ryan, right. Grub street is those three pitches (Old Style, Cider Crack, 10c) or the knuckleduster variation which starts from the agonal belay and goes two straight up pitches. according to KM
Cling peaches originally started on the right but the prefered route is now to start up old style the veer right on the dyke to the agonal belay, then start up agonal and go straight up, and the next pitch is the one that mh2's photo displays because this is the one that Luke led after we moved right at the top of cider crack.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 10, 2012 - 01:38am PT
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Wow, thanks for walking me thru that one boys.
Super value looks awesome, I've never done it but will jump on it next time I'm in the area. Big Mike i can't believe you didn't try True Love after doing picket line! Its easy to TR & I'm telling you man, it's a tricky one but with your span you will be able to cruise the crux & laugh about it after & call it 5.11 while the rest of us 5'9"ers will maintain belief it's the hardest 12a in town!!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 10, 2012 - 12:11pm PT
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I certainly don't mind chiming in.
If anyone wants to add any bolts whatsoever to any of the routes I had any part in, please contact me so I can say no.
I'm not trying to be stubborn here, I just believe the bolts, the spacing, the run outs, it all adds up to the experience on the route. Many of these routes are more about the mental anguish than they are physical challenge.
Now if the issue is rusted or otherwise manky pins, that's open for discussion.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 10, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
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ok so it changes the character of the route. forgetting for a moment the pro's and con's of social protocol, is it always so great an idea to preserve the character of the FA regardless of anything else?
Of course not. There are plenty of stupid FAs. But that doesn't mean that the starting point in any discussion of changing a route shouldn't be respect for the FA.
If you think a route needs changing, then talk to the people who were there first. Talk to people who climbed it (or chose not to climb it) in the era of which it is a part. Talk to the community as a whole.
But don't just rap into the thing with your drill and do whatever the f*#k you feel like doing.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 10, 2012 - 01:05pm PT
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You guys bring very good points on the matter of adding protection bolts & i fully agree. I guess the sentiments are the same for anchors? FYI the anchor can't' be clipped unless you pull the mantel or aid up. The other option once you do the mantel is to walk up the slab & do at least one weird diagonal rap off some sh1tty barley station @ the base of quagmire, or continue up. Awesome climb, you guys should definitely go down there & do it again.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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May 10, 2012 - 02:06pm PT
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I think Anders should weigh in on the addition of belay bolts, then this thread can go to 5000 posts. :-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2012 - 02:25pm PT
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Tami- I hate to be devils advocate here, because i know thats bruce's job, but isn't that exactly what jason and hayden did? And maestri before them?
Not saying i approve of the anchors but food for thought.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 10, 2012 - 02:40pm PT
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Tami- I hate to be devils advocate here, because i know thats bruce's job, but isn't that exactly what jason and hayden did?
I'm not Tami, but I'll put my $0.02 in anyway: No, that's not what JK & HK did. Their alteration of the CT route was done after decades of discussion in the community. I'd be surprised if they asked Maestri, but you can bet that they, like pretty much all climbers who spend time in Patagonia, had had endless discussions about it with a lot of people. There's another thread or two for discussion of the good or evil of their choppage, but it doesn't have much in common with the usual route alteration at the crags.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 10, 2012 - 03:11pm PT
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Yes, I'm guilty by association of allowing a well-known rescuer to add belay/rappel bolts just below the top of Seasoned in the Sun. There was a safety issue, in that the ledge just above provides good tree anchors, but was also becoming destabilized. JH finally persuaded me that fixed anchors near the top made sense, even though it allows people to avoid the last interesting move. That said, anyone toproping there is dumber than a bag of hammers - it's a rockfall zone from the Vulcan's Artery/Northwest Passage area.
And yes, I added three bolt belays and four climbing bolts (one at a place where people used to use pins) to Slab Alley, after considerable on-line discussion, and talking with people like Hamie and Tricouni, who did early ascents of the route. (Neither Jim Baldwin nor Tony Cousins, sadly, was available.) A seven pitch route. Plus did a little cleaning, which is pretty much invisible to non-climbers. I'm still doubtful about one of the three stations, but the other two were needed.
My views and analysis of the idea of adding fixed anchors at the top of Penny Lane are well know and well founded. An unsafe and illogical idea.
Whatever else, if you want to add bolts to an existing route, talk first. Seek the views of those who did the first ascent, or at least early ascents. Tell people, not just your posse but people you know may disagree. Talk first, bolt later.
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Raingod
Trad climber
North Vancouver
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May 10, 2012 - 03:31pm PT
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I agree with Big Mike about JK & HK. There may have been discussion but in the end they said screw it we will change the route to suit our vision of how it should be. That being said respect for the FA should be universal.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
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Sorry bk if my joke offended you, i will gladly retract it.
It was not my intention to turn this into a ct thread. I just saw the similarities.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 10, 2012 - 03:58pm PT
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Sorry bk if my joke offended you, i will gladly retract it. It's actually Anders' job to offend Bruce, so you should direct your apologies to him.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 10, 2012 - 05:23pm PT
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Is there going to be a beer fueled Exasperator get together this Sunday? If so what time. I can get the day off Mike.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 10, 2012 - 05:27pm PT
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Is there going to be a beer fueled Exasperator get together this Sunday? If so what time. I can get the day off Mike.
This does seem like the most pertinent issue.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 10, 2012 - 05:32pm PT
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Second free ascent, pitch 2. Note shrubberies.
I've both walked and hand traversed (heel hooked) the bit at the end. Both work well.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
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This does seem like the most pertinent issue.
The only thing notable this weekend is the Doug Fir Memorial Exasperator Speed Comp and Beer Garden
Seems like Bruce is still down. I'm down, Ghost? you in? sounded like a couple of other people were stoked.. I said Sunday 4ish but earlier if people are into it.
Everyone welcome, byob and remember the more b you bring the more ammo you have.
Nice pic Anders!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 10, 2012 - 06:02pm PT
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We'll be around all weekend and I'm always happy to meet new people. And old people. Beer is good, too, although I haven't drunk anything from a can in a decade. May I throw bottles?
Probably getting to Squamish early Friday afternoon and leaving Monday afternoon. Just keep me posted.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2012 - 06:37pm PT
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I dunno Ghost.. Would you like us to throw bottles at you? ;p
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 10, 2012 - 07:22pm PT
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I dunno Ghost.. Would you like us to throw bottles at you?
As long as they're full, and you toss them gently so I can catch them and they don't get all foamy when they're opened, then go for it.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 10, 2012 - 07:28pm PT
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So you'd prefer that we didn't throw bottles at you from the gondola?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 10, 2012 - 07:35pm PT
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Ghost, just go buy some Red Racer beer and you can retain your beer snob in a can status.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 10, 2012 - 08:25pm PT
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Probably won't take much more than a few shopping carts & few ropes. Take the back wheel of Hamish's bike & rig it to a pulley system. He can pedal away stationary while we do TR laps & throw beer cans out of the Hamish powered shopping cart tram. Shazaam -exasperator gondola! All proponents in favor of beer! I think it's safe to say that since there will be no profits we can skip the regulatory BC parks process.
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MH2
climber
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May 10, 2012 - 08:50pm PT
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So to be pertinent, from the campground parking
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 10, 2012 - 08:55pm PT
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Oh he's getting broken into for sure, that's like advertising for the skids.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
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hahahaha! Bruce, bring your tree spikes so we can take turns throwing cans, er i mean taking pictures from the tree! :)
I think we'll have to build Hamish a nice little transition to pull that landing.. too bad about the runout :)
Andy I hope you're coming? Hamish? gf i heard you're back in town? Tami? Anders? Jim B still in Calgary? Bmacd is still in the desert? Perry? Saugy? Oplopanax? sac?
Haven't heard from Coastal Climber in awhile, I would love to meet him and thank him for his participation when i was starting out. Nigel SSI? ditto.
any one else? more the merrier.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 10, 2012 - 09:09pm PT
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The mosquitoes will be very happy.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2012 - 09:14pm PT
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bug spray might be in order. ;) you gonna put it up for us Anders? :)
Ya hoser i've heard that complaint allready. Mine is on the island, I'll be calling her :) Ghost was in town so i thought i'd seize the opportunity.
Maybe if it goes well we'll do it again..
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 10, 2012 - 09:23pm PT
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I'm all over an Exasperator party. My lady might have the day off, so she'll come up and join the bottom party as well :) This is happening right? My hopes aren't going to be dashed at some point over the course of the weekend?
Edit: Mike, yeah you did warn me about the lack of pro..... And I guess I knew before I started that it was a little sparse..... But at least now I can tick it off ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
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ya you can dude.. bold tick.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 10, 2012 - 10:52pm PT
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Gotta put myself in the headspace for climbs like Unfinished Symphony and White Lightning. Runouts are just another part of the game.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2012 - 11:28pm PT
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In honor of the event my first ever manipulation.
No Bottles!
No Bottles!, RIP Ouch!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 10, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
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poor me...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 11, 2012 - 12:00am PT
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Haha that photo is hilarious! Anders your photo on the previous is awesome, the crack looks pinned out but the rock is still grey! Speaking of anchors, was there bolts at the top of the first pitch when that photo was taken?? Oh & what's up with the heel-hooking? You some sort of hippy boulderer?? :-)
@soloclimber, unfinished symphony is fairly well protected, white lightning however has a bit of spice on the first pitch (5.9 slab solo) make it through that & the rest ain't so bad. When you really want to get scared go do dancing in the light. Not sure what the logical progression for difficulty:runout ratio is from there for multipitch slab? Dream on?
For me it was sport climbing.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 11, 2012 - 12:05am PT
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Not sure what the logical progression for difficulty:runout ratio is from there for multipitch slab? Dream on?
Dream On has some difficulty and some runouts. Which I can look back on fondly, comfortable in the knowledge that I'll never have to get on it again.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 11, 2012 - 12:45am PT
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I don't know aboot the logical progression, but all I know is 5.9 and 5.10 pitches on 5.11 and harder slab routes in Squamish = poop in yer ginch...
As a tester, go do Diedre Direct. At least you get a bolt.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 11, 2012 - 12:48am PT
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Ah, I don't know too much on the history of the climbs, or much about the climbs themselves, so I'm just assuming that they were all bolted on lead. I've started to really enjoy hard slab climbing, so want to make a goal of getting on the majority of these climbs. Once I get the new Select, I'll be able to comprise a logical progression of slabs to do.
Anyone interested in getting on some harder friction routes?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 11, 2012 - 12:50am PT
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Quick Answer Tami, yes very run out. The Grim Reaper is bad ass.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 11, 2012 - 01:13am PT
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Once I get the new Select, I'll be able to comprise a logical progression of slabs to do.
I'm not sure how the new guidebook to come will help you on your quest for slab progression. While I have no experience with the newer Apron slab climbs that have been plastered on top or next to the long standing run out classics, I can only assume they are akin to putting up a sport climb right on top of the Bachar Yerian. Furthermore, climbing some new sporty bolted 5.10 slab won't do much for your head space when you are faced with say a 5.10a pitch on Dancing in the Light.
Stick to the old classics that still remain in tact for slab. Build up from there. Go do the Upper Apron ones, then maybe do Diedre Direct into White Lightning.
Bypass Grim Reaper until you know you are a full fledged slab master. It will set your brain on fire.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 11, 2012 - 01:18am PT
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As a tester, go do Diedre Direct. At least you get a bolt.
There's a bolt on Diedre Direct now? When did that happen?
Uh, maybe I should first check on what Diedre Direct is. It's the alternate first pitch that goes more or less directly up instead of wandering around over to the left, right? My memory of it is about 100 feet of 5.9 slab, with no pro at all.
Did somebody stick a bolt into it? Or are you talking about some other variation?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 11, 2012 - 01:25am PT
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Diedre Direct has had at least one bolt ever since Carl and I first attempted it in autumn 1975. IIRC, there are two bolts total.
"Slim Pickins", as far as anyone could make out, wasn't far from Black Bug's Blood.
I believe that Marc's new book has or soon will go to press. It looks very good.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 11, 2012 - 01:29am PT
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@ Relic: I only say the new Select as my last guidebook was borrowed/appropriated from me, and I just figured I'd wait until the new book is out before buying another one. My intention is to do the old school runout climbs instead of the newer bolt ladder types.
In my last post, when I said I assumed they were bolted on lead, I meant to also add, 'and therefore fairly sparse on the bolts.'
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 11, 2012 - 01:53am PT
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Ah ok gotcha Nathan. It still might be easier to find the old classics with an older guidebook, or knowledgable partner. The newer guidebooks make me dizzy with the number of overlapping routes and lines drawn on pictures.
That's funny, I only remember one bolt on DD, albeit one placed right before the crux. One bolt, two bolt, it's all good fun for the brain.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 11, 2012 - 10:51am PT
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Alright, we're headed north. Get those extra bolts in and the new holds chipped.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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May 11, 2012 - 11:43am PT
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Bloodlust was reasonably well protected for one of the older routes, also a fave back in the day.
If I recall DD went straight up from the first to third belay and was a good way to jump the queue. The same queue jumping can be done by traversing left from the first pitch along the horizontal crack and climbing straight up. No bolts, old school 5.9. I may have the variations reversed?
Don't discredit some of Jeff Thompsen's later additions too quickly, seriously hard friction climbing with healthy run outs. 5.11/5.12 slab is still a head game no matter how the bolts went in.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 11, 2012 - 01:27pm PT
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Hah, seems like everyone has a different memory of DD. It does have 2 bolts. It is quite distinguishable by the dimples or shallow pockets on it IIRC. There is a pic of Dave Jones soloing it in the 92' guidebook. You finish it at the big flake thing you stand on at the start of the diedre, the start of White Lightning. That's how I remember it, but my memory is pretty crappy.
Dirty Little White Boys is a good one too. You can do the first 4 pitches at 5.9 - 10c. It's over by snake.
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perswig
climber
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May 11, 2012 - 05:47pm PT
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^^
Is this Dave Jones a hardman who may have climbed around the northeast US a bit, maybe a geologist? I spent a day with a D. Jones, who danced up .11s and .12s in Camden, ME like nothing, reducing me to tears.
Nice guy, to boot, dammit.
Dale
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 11, 2012 - 07:35pm PT
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The one to the left of the first tree ledge that rolfr speaks of is what I thought was DD, it's good exciting fun for sure, no bolts, quality slab. Good way to get warmed up for White lightning.
I'm at work hopefully the rest of you have the same excuse for posting on a beautiful day like this, let us know what you climbed today in sunny, dry Squamish!
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MH2
climber
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May 11, 2012 - 07:46pm PT
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That first 5.8 crack you come to at Funarama and then the bolted face climbs right and left of it. Which, for us, averaged out to an easy day. Got ice cream at New Market and looked around the fancy new building on Cleveland.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 11, 2012 - 08:07pm PT
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Thanks MH2, that crack is fun, are u talking about that new giant glass cube across from parkside??
Who else was out there? I stopped at Murrin for a minute to say hi to some friends who were trying Betazoid, anyone know the names grades of the new bolted routes to the left? We tried a few of them last week & it seemed like the far left was 5.8 or so, super steep jugs, real fun, unusually steep for the grade, then the next one was 10+/11- with one big mike reach, then the arete just left of Betazoid I didn't try but my friend said maybe 11d/12a? Pretty fun little zone around there with genesis all cleaned up too with a few new lines that are all pretty fun.
Edit- and it looks like there's about 4 new bolts on horrors of Ivan too so that should make it way safer and better.
Hahahahahahhaha- joking:-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2012 - 08:39pm PT
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So the mothers day crowd has convinced me that attendance might be a little better if we move the start time up a bit. So lets say 230 on sunday at the base of exasperator.
I am currently sitting at fata morgana and it is gorgeous here!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 11, 2012 - 08:50pm PT
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I have written down in my olde guidebook/journal Diedre Direct is "really good, 2 bolts". McLane says one bolt in his '92 book. Rolf and Ryan say zero bolts. Haha.
I think that you guys are thinking of Straight Up, the 5.9 variation with no pro.
Anyone wanna make a wager as to who's right? I got my money on Anders and myself.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 11, 2012 - 09:01pm PT
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My money is on you. Straight up rings a bell, so many ways to climb all over the slabs in that area. I also have done what u guys are calling DD but I don't remember any bolts?? Maybe 1?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 11, 2012 - 09:02pm PT
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Straight Up goes directly from the belay at the original start of Diedre - the birch about 20 m up, the way most now do it - to the belay at the end of the original pitch, which was a tree, now gone, in a scoop a bit right and down from the bolts where people now belay. Looking at it another way, it is a few m left of the first pitch of Over the Rainbow. Straight Up has no bolts at all, although the other route is intrusively close.
Diedre Direct is directly below the block on the Diedre traverse, the one just before the start of the Diedre corner proper. You start it about 25 m left of the original start of Diedre. DD has certainly one and probably two bolts.
The original start of Diedre was to come in from the left via a diagonal crack and bush line, so missing out the first little slab.
All the routes on the Apron right of Diedre were established on lead, with EBs, using nuts and pitons, and usually follow weaknesses. The only exceptions being A Troll's Sonnet, the Passing Lane (possibly), and the retro-bolting of Black Bug's Blood. As the rock has generally gotten cleaner, with sticky rubber, and with modern gear, it's possible to go pretty much anywhere. I believe that it may be time for a moratorium on "new" routes on the right half of the Apron (at least), some cliffs in the Little Smoke Bluffs, and perhaps elsewhere. There's little if any point to them.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 11, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
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OG's^^^^
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MH2
climber
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May 11, 2012 - 10:42pm PT
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Holy guacamole, gf!!
I knew there would be a crowd up there.
You are welcome, RyanD. Yes, that multi-story thing with the glass. Gives a different tone to Squamish. There was lots of life along Cleveland.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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May 11, 2012 - 10:51pm PT
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So cool to see the gf - hf - pc team re-united if just for a day !
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 12, 2012 - 12:06am PT
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So cool to see the gf - hf - pc team re-united if just for a day !
Right on guys! Hope you had a great day!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2012 - 02:26am PT
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I told you. My phone is capable of posting to supertopo. :) no i wasnt belaying. Im just finishing up at the brew pub now. The wonders of the modern world.
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'Mo
Big Wall climber
Squamish, BC
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May 12, 2012 - 03:56am PT
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Tami, I owe you an apology; blame it on not wearing my glasses, but you are correct, that thar bolt oh FR fully changes the character of the route. This was pointed out to me by your partner in climb via a PM.
MOE-??
Not really. It is the anchor with an extension left over from a previous lead attempt that day. I don't know if you have ever climbed Fungus Razor GF but if have and could remember you would know that you can in know way clip this until you have completed the mantle. The climbing after the mantle is 6m of 5.7 followed by a dirty traverse to mantle a salal covered ledge (sketchy ledge fall potential while pulling on weak greenery) to get to the original tree anchor. Then what? You bring up your second, hope they can follow it, and rappel off and try it all over again if you didn't get it the first go. Okay this was the way it was originally done, (actually it was done in two pitches and with several fixed pitons) and it never got done again. It is a great route, one of the unsung Croft test pieces. Now the route can be climbed in one pitch from the ground,it has no fixed pro (unless you clip the anchor on top of the 10d) you can lower off with one 60m rope and those of us not talented enough to onsite it can work it out on top rope. After the anchor went in I watched this route get three ascents in one day including a flash, this probably three times more ascents than it got in the previous 2 decades.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 12, 2012 - 09:59am PT
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It was over 3 hrs.
Finding sunblessed was easier in the old days, when it was under the second summit. Around the time it was made a park, they moved it over to the third summit. Brutal.Some sort of Park Boundary adjustment somethingorother, not too sure.
Man my quads are sore.
John Rosholt's classic quote for locating the turnofff to sunblessed: "It's not obvious but you can't miss it"
RIP buddy.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 12, 2012 - 11:15am PT
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I'm glad I'm not the only one that gets lost on the way to Sunblessed. I swear it used to be easier to find BITD.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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May 12, 2012 - 11:40am PT
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Sometimes it's faster just to go to the 3rd peak and work downwards along that fault right of Dimwitted area. can't miss it then.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 12, 2012 - 12:08pm PT
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Haha 3 Squamish legends getting lost on their way to climb some Squamish 5.10 trade routes!! Classic!! Hope you guys had a fun day!
My god man I was kidding about lap tops at exasperator! Its a bad idea not a good one.... yeesh. freakin kids these days.
Greg, good of ya to update the blog from half way up.
Bruce, i hope you are feeling better! I am worried though that based on your hilarious comments that you may actually be quite ill :-)
Good ? about the block on Fungus. It seems solid but is also seemingly just stuffed in there. A big 8 x 20 cork under that roof. Is the rock scar that makes up that climb the result of a railway blast??
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 12, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
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It could just be a dream but I think we did a route off to the right of Fungus Razor that later fell down, or was blasted down. Long time ago.
Lost spectacles?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 12, 2012 - 08:35pm PT
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After successive large rockfalls in the Fungus Razor area, I've avoided the place. The original approach pitch to Quagmire Crack, coming in from the right, from Id Route, fell off. Then a bunch of other stuff. And the idea of smacking pins into it. Creepy!
(This has absolutely nothing to do with my inability to climb FR, of course.)
Sunblessed has gotten progressively harder to find ever since ghost and I did it in spring 1992. They'll probably need to build a gondola to it, so that Hamish and Bruce can find it.
Assuming Exasperpalooza is still happening at 2:30 on Sunday (is it?), who might be interested in an adventure in the morning? I would like to find the original line of Squamish Buttress, from 1958. It is somewhere left of Calculus Crack. It might be fun thrashing around, figuring it out. Or it could be character building. We might even find Sunblessed.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 12, 2012 - 09:22pm PT
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I wouldn't call Fungus popular by any means. Dont expect a stream of topropers any time soon, you still need to lead it to hang the rope. 11d/12a!!! You sandbaggers! We thought it was hard for 12b!! That mantel is ridiculous! Would be v5/6 in the boulders, like anyone here has a clue what that means, maybe Relic.
The 10d first pitch is stout for the grade as well.
Not sure if I'm going to make exasperfest due to the time change cuz of all the mommas boys. My plan was to get there around 5-530- maybe the sunday afternoon lineup will actually be gone by then & u guys will just be getting started. I was gonna bring my mom too, She's got an arm like a cannon, probably knock you off the second pitch crux with an empty wildcat she just shotgunned.
Another good contest rule would be no chalk allowed & you have to eat a few fistfuls of French fries right before leaving the ground, a friend & I did that before a end of the day diedre lap one Sunday afternoon. Definition of greasin it up! I think we even brought the fries with us, White spot IIRC.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 12, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
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I climbed Rock On today and at the 3rd pitch I did the direct instead of heading into the corner on the right. It felt way harder than the wet crux of Rock On, and well harder than the two 10b's I did on the train tracks last week...anyone know anything about it?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 12, 2012 - 10:29pm PT
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FB, do you mean the corner to the left?
Surely someone is interested in sleuthing out the following intiguing mystery. The scene of the crime isn't far from Bastille, aka Rock On.
Goose Rock, Squamish, B. C. Destined to be the “Yosemite of the Northwest,” Goose Rock, at the head of Howe Sound, has been attracting rock climbers since the recent opening of the new road to Squamish. The west and north walls rise virtually from tidewater to 1900 feet in a sweep that is well over a half mile wide. The rock is granodiorite and despite moss and brush in some cracks, there are many sheer and clean walls. The rock is slabby in nature but holds are generally solid. There is an easy route for the descent on the south side via woods and a surveyor’s trail along the creek bordering the rock, but there is no easy face route up the rock. The great central gully has two difficult pitches (one is partially sixth) but is otherwise scree or scrambling. The first complete wall route climbs theentire rounded ridge and the upper wall to the right of this central gully.
On one May weekend we climbed the first thousand feet which was class 5
with the exception of a short overhang. The party, Fred Beckey, Don
Claunch, and Hank Mather, returned to complete the route on a succeeding
weekend. Aside from the culminating pitch, a loo-foot 6th class vertical
wall that gives one a superb panorama of the Sound, the tugboats, the trains, and Mount Garibaldi, the climax of this original climb was the accidental eruption of a lunch fire into a fir-grove blaze on a ledge of the upper cliffs. The party spent well over an hour extinguishing the blaze, though it took that night’s rain to stop the smoke. There are further route possibilities some of which will take two or three days to complete.
(No one has any idea where Fred got the Goose Rock bit from.)
Start below and to the right of The Terror [the big roof near the bottom of South Gully] and climb a series of difficult and somewhat bushy cracks and chimneys to reach the left end of Brodway. The route, thus far, keeps somewhat left of where the Apron falls away into the South Gully.
That is to say, left of Calculus Crack. There is definitely a tree/bush line there.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 12, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
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Yeah MH, the much smaller corner to the left, thin arching finger cracks...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 12, 2012 - 11:52pm PT
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Goose rock??!
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 13, 2012 - 02:10am PT
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Yeah Bruce it's mostly clean, some of the feet were a little crunchy in the critical spots.
This was my first time on the climb, so I cant compare the two options, however I thought it was great. The nicest part which was also the hardest contained really thin finger jams, almost tips, with not much for the feet. The gear was small and fiddly, and at the crux any good gear filled my holds.
I dropped some gear up there so I'll try and get out there tomorrow and climb the original pitches to compare...
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 13, 2012 - 11:38am PT
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There was a long line rescue off of U Wall yesterday around noon. Anyone know the details behind that?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2012 - 12:15pm PT
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Exasperpalooza
It's on like donkey kong folks. 2:30 is the anticipated start time when it will hopefully be free, and I'm hoping that someone else wants to put up the rope so I can save my energy for my top rope burn. Failing that, i'll do it myself. Edit Nathan just volunteered.
Couple things, pop cans are acceptable for drivers who wish to respect the roads, and all cans must be cleaned up and return from whence they came.
I fully expect to still be there at 5:00 when Ryand is showing up, I'm bringing the lawn chairs so I can chill. I expect most people will be showing up a bit later after multi-pitches or cragging or what not. It's light out till 9:30 ;)
so see you there! I'll be cragging at the base of the cheif today, so if you want to find me just look for the big tall guy :)
ps GF thanks for the pic! Sounds like you guys had a good day out :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2012 - 12:46pm PT
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I took a couple more pics on Friday before I posted to update the time.
Nina starts up the lieback flake on Fata Morgana 5.8
She almost backed outta this one but Luke made her feel guily for making him walk up the hill so she sacked up.
It was a beautiful day.
How does this block on the right stay here?
Managed to catch a bald eagle in this one.
Luke wanted to lead Werewolves Of London 11c
so I climbed a tree to get some shots.
This is the one where Tami was dozing and Rolf Ryback gave her a little boot to wake her up?
Edit Tami wish you could join us!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 13, 2012 - 04:25pm PT
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You guys have fun, and don't forget to livestream your report here. We want to hear all the slander.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2012 - 05:59pm PT
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Aww your not coming anders? Boo ;) we are here now. Get your butt out here :)
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 13, 2012 - 06:17pm PT
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Way to go you die-hards for keeeping your commitment. Howsabouta picture of someone getting beer cans pitched at them?
Watch out for wayward base-jumpers.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2012 - 08:30pm PT
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Too bad you guys aren't here. Bruce k, andy, nick and solo showed up with a couple people. Its been fun so far. Hamish get out here and toss some stella tall boys!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 13, 2012 - 08:36pm PT
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Pre-planned mother's day dinner; next one for sure.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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May 13, 2012 - 09:03pm PT
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Hamish, I heard my girlfriends mom was inquiring with you about your local legend status, and you said you dont climb much anymore because yur neck was soar from looking up! HHaha tO funny!
Mike we expect you tO post the tOp 5 tImes, And we want before and after photos of your shoes tO see how much rubber you skidded off!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 13, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
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How's the party goin at the Grand? I'm aboot to pass out finally for real. Such a lightweight I am. Sorry I'm missing it. Next one, I'll try not to drink my face off the night before and pass out at some unknown house.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 13, 2012 - 10:43pm PT
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What, did someone bolt some handlebars on No Name Road?
Maybe when DMT finally graces us with his presence, we can mark the occasion with suitable festivities.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 14, 2012 - 12:52am PT
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Hope u guys had fun at exasperama! I got stuck for the entire day on a climb that was supposed to be a quick tick at murrin.....fail. So humbling. Would have been more enjoyable greasing it up with u guys, who won?!
Edit: handlebars on no name rd lol
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 14, 2012 - 02:44am PT
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Rad times, good to put a name and an alias to a face, Bruce and Andy!
Andy won by far, he didn't even stop to rest the whole way up, even when Bruce tied a bag to the rope he was trailing. Machine...diplomatic and humble to boot. I wanna be like that when I'm an old fart... ;) (That's a wink there MH2...)
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 14, 2012 - 10:05am PT
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Yes kidcormier, that's one of my many excuses. Maintaining calmness well above gear is another. Wedging my poor old feet into those little shoes is another. I've got lots of lame excuses but the biggest one of all has two (29") wheels on it and goes like the wind...
Pretty funny I know your future mother in law; now I'm feeling old(er).
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 14, 2012 - 11:12am PT
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Cool photos Mike, that Fata morgana is a bit of a tricky one for the 5.8 gear leader. Good climb.
So Tami, let me guess- you probably think Werewolves is 12 a/b?? :-)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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May 14, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
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Its actually graded 11a in the guide books I've seen, Big Mike is a known grade creep...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2012 - 04:54pm PT
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Last night was fun indeed. Andy killed that crack in 6 minutes. Closest time was nathans at 7 minutes.
I just print what i read in the guide book. Km is a grade creep i guess.
I ditched work today so i could run up the buttress with nick, sitting at the base of the 10c right now. Super nice up here.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 14, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
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Get those pictures up Mike!!!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 14, 2012 - 11:38pm PT
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It was a nice sunny hot day today on the Chief. All the cool kids were out on it. Luke and I climbed by Old Fred Beckey today on Rambles. The guy is still at er'. Saw Jim and Jola Sanford walking off Broadway too. Too bad I missed most of you guys at exasperator yesterday. Did Ghost make it there?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 14, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
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Hah, meant it as good old Fred. So awesome seeing him up and at it still. That guy is amazing.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 15, 2012 - 12:19am PT
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Got a little apron lap in myself this morning too, was sure nice to be up there again. Relic were u guys sitting at the first belay talking on your cell phones around 10?? I was running by on the trail with my headphones back to my car & thought someone was yelling at me, I looked up tho & it was 2 guys hangin out casually yabberin at the first belay on their phones with a party above them. Hope u guys had fun! Beautiful day. How is that rambles thing anyway?? 6 minutes seems quick for an exasperator lap!
Anyone got a good Sanford tale? Seems like a bit of an enigma, he seems to have been active around the same time as many who post here, was he shunned for his ummmm agressive sport tactics? Or did he just quietly send things while Jola held the rope??I see him out every now & then & he still crushes, warming up on animal at pet wall & stuff like that. Every route of his i've tried has been a lesson in humility as well. Sure left a host of difficult climbs around here.
GF- where's Mr Bad example??
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 15, 2012 - 12:36am PT
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Do you mean on the Kashmir wall GF? No Ryan, Luke and I got a late start. It is a good climb for sure!
Oh haha, nevermind! I thought you meant the Squamish buttress!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 15, 2012 - 12:58am PT
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The scenario, all too common. Jim S is walking along the base of Petriflying Wall, as someone like me flails on one of the 'easier' routes there. Something like Pleasant Pheasant, say. The climber recognizes Jim and asks for beta, knowing that all routes there depend on trick handholds and other sandbaggery.
Jim thinks for a few moments, then looks up and simply says "pull harder", maybe with a little smile.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 15, 2012 - 01:03am PT
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Freewill.....seriously! That thing is bad ass!! Also worth a mention, albeit a completely different style & almost equally difficult despite the 4 letter grade difference is Digital Dexterity @ pixie corner, don't think it sees too many ascents. Too bad the army put some wierd tyrolean anchors right next to the seam 3/4 of the way up. I'd be stoked to send just one Sanford line, anybody know any soft ones?? hahahha yeah right, as if such a thing exists. Dude has an eye for sustained, hard climbing.
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MH2
climber
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May 15, 2012 - 01:14am PT
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Sunday was a good day, too. Michael and I turned around on Squamish Buttress when I started to worry about my car sitting all alone after dark at the Caulfeild plaza. Can't trust those police.
Fortunately the Exasperator get-together was still on. As we got close I saw a youth climbing smooth and fast toward the top. Even more impressed when it turned out he had a bad respiratory condition. And he wasn't so young.
This is the first and last time I will be considered fast.
It was good to see and talk to everyone. The White Ale surprised my taste buds or whatever it is you taste with. I felt like a smarter beer drinker instantly.
Thanks to all.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 15, 2012 - 01:18am PT
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Was great to meet you Andy. You can see how fast Mike's belay arm is moving in that picture - that's due to my trying to keep up with your record ;)
As a matter of fact, it was good to meet Michael, and BK as well. Great to see some of the pioneers of Squamish's last golden age, so to speak.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 15, 2012 - 02:22am PT
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Mike and I had a big day today...climbed calculus, Karen's Math, Memorial, Squamish Buttress, a couple of offwidths in the Cirque of the Uncrackables, then a solo of Banana Peel. Here's some piccies!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 15, 2012 - 09:25am PT
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Freaking weirdo
I was trying to use jedi mind tricks on the piton to make a fair means ascent, but the power of the dark side was too much for me.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 15, 2012 - 11:34am PT
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That none of you saw me at Exasperator doesn't mean I wasn't there. Sometimes I'm hard to see.
Jim S is a crusher -period.
And not just on Squamish granite. He could lead harder ice than I could follow, and was pretty comfortable in the mountains. And to make things even worse, he was a really nice guy. That's just not fair.
I climbed a fair bit with him, which is the best illustration I can give of his attitude toward climbing, because anything I could get up, he could solo in roller skates. He had a real laser focus on his projects, but he also just loved to get outside with friends. The fact that he could climb three full number grades harder than I could didn't seem to matter. He was always supportive and encouraging. I spent a lot of time with him both on and off the rock, and never once heard him say a negative word about anybody.
Now, back to exasperator. I was there. Just not at the same time you guys were. For whatever reason, I thought the event was scheduled for Saturday late afternoon, and made the trek up the hill with a friend. We met a very nice young couple visiting from somewhere else, drank the can of Coors Lite we'd carried up, and finally gave up and went home and lit the barbie.
We did see Andy later that evening, for which I'm grateful because it's been too long since the last time. And I spent a lot of time on the phone with Bruce Kay, but never saw him. He even came looking for me in the bar after the exasperfest, but didn't see me. Even though I was there. Sometimes this whole hard-to-see thing is less fun than you'd think.
Still, Sunday wasn't a total loss. Here's where we were while you all were exasperating:
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 15, 2012 - 11:48am PT
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Nice photos guys, that skywalker shot is framed very well. Thanks.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
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No time for a proper post this morning.
Got a few pics done tho,
Michael getting beer cans thrown at him at the start of Exasperator
This picture proves it's hard to throw a beer can and take a decent pic at the same time.
Andy enjoys his White Ale while Fish belays Sandra.
Bk and Solo
Nathan on Rutabega 5.11a (p1 10a)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 15, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
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Here's another shot from Sunday.
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MH2
climber
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May 15, 2012 - 01:24pm PT
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Thanks for that mind-slap, Tami. A breath of air, even if indoor, amongst all the climbing. I don't suppose you consider the possibilities of beer cans in that venue.
Good pictures, Mike.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 15, 2012 - 01:35pm PT
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It would be quite inappropriate to pelt all the CirKids with empties, whether bottles or glass. As for Tami...
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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May 15, 2012 - 05:44pm PT
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Reykavik
Any more on the long=line rescue on U Wall. Or was that a troll
Cant find the question mark on this keyboard!!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 15, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
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base jumper whose chute was pulled a little late. It partially inflated and he crashed into those trees at the base. He's o.k., broken back maybe. Yuck.
Chief and crew flew him out.
Way to go SAR members.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 15, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
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Any more on the long=line rescue on U Wall. Or was that a troll
Perry said they had to rescue a base jumper who had suffered "an in-flght emergency" and had to pull too soon. He said everything went well though, and the jumper survived.
Not sure if that's the same rescue you're talking about, but it's the only one I heard of on the w/e
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 15, 2012 - 06:16pm PT
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And you would've gathered recycle points for re-using the cans from exasperator.
That was buddy's lucky day.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 15, 2012 - 07:51pm PT
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He landed in a clump of trees near Kneewrecker Chimney according to someone who saw it all unfold.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 15, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
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But did it unfold? The chute, that is?
(Sorry, couldn't resist.)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2012 - 08:50pm PT
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Proximty flying was in play from what I hear. Stupid to do on the Chief and crazy anywhere else.
Couple more pics from Sunday. There are more too but the combo of sun and shade make for lots of photoshop work for me, and i'm busy climbing and working at the moment.
Michael chats with the ladies.
MH2, Speed Climber. :)
Ryand- Fata Morgana is no slouch to be sure. You better have your head game on.
Ghost- Bruce told me that you had showed up on Saturday. Too bad, but pretty funny that you seem to be invisible. Next time you come to town you'll have to wear some brighter attire so we can see you better. :) Let us know when you're coming up and we'll throw something together.
Nice Skywalker pic.
Yesterday was awesome. Finally sent the Buttress clean. Can't wait to rp it! Simuled Calculus Crack all the way to Karen's Math then belayed it and Memorial. Such a sweet line, almost straight up.
Cirque of the Uncrackables was cool! It was my first time there and we took the via ferrata and hiked over second peak to get there. We started out on Ivan Meets GI Joe. Such a cool climb!
Then I saw it was a Hamish Fraser, Craig Thompson route! Hamish did you guys have Friends on this one? 1981?
After we did March Of The Kitchen Utensils. Super cool too. Fish's buddy was lacking a bit of gear to inspire much confidence so Fish Boy had to step up and finish the job and finish it he did. Amazing Offwidth.
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MH2
climber
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May 15, 2012 - 09:35pm PT
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Right on, Bruce! Except for the iconic and Squamish parts, perhaps. Is this the Big Jim of which you post?
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MH2
climber
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May 15, 2012 - 10:01pm PT
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That is a cigarette in his right hand, of course.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 15, 2012 - 10:38pm PT
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"Sometimes you know" is one of my all-time favorite pieces of climbing writing. Short, but really distills the climbing experience to its essence.
And of course I ran into Jim at Starbucks on Monday morning. I think he has shares in the place or something.
Edit:
After we did March Of The Kitchen Utensils.
What really should come after that is walking over a few meters and hanging your rope on Scimitar. Maybe Boogie til you puke is harder, but Scimitar is surely one of the coolest pieces of granite architecture at Squamish. And unless your balls are so big that you can barely lift yourself off the ground, I don't see how you could lead it.
But what do I know about offwidths? And it is an amazing fun TR.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 16, 2012 - 01:23am PT
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An outing on Saturday, after a morning at the library. Somewhat hackneyed, perhaps. I've attempted this moderate climb several times, always unsuccessfully, usually due to rain.
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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May 16, 2012 - 01:56am PT
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Hey that's DAN!! On Starcheck?
What a sender!
Well done gents!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2012 - 12:26pm PT
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What really should come after that is walking over a few meters and hanging your rope on Scimitar.
I would have loved to but it will have to wait till next time.. There will be one for sure. After my first Chief ascent of the year combined with only bringing 1 litre of water each we were pretty tired.
couple more pics from Sunday,
MH2 styles Exasperator 10c
His friend Michael had a cool helmet.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 16, 2012 - 12:46pm PT
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Haha that helmet is hilarious!
Last year?? Maybe the one before, i was waiting for a friend in the parking lot around 8am & saw a base jumper all tangled in the trees up by kneewrecker. A party was climbing somewhat near there & the leader pretty much headed over off route & bailed the dude out & helped lower him while the police sat in the parking lot near me scratching their heads. It turned out it was a couple from Germany, & the woman, who was leading was some sort of badass euro alpine guide. The guy had apparently jumped from somewhere off the top of the south end of pan wall.
Sounds like a similar spot from the incident just the other day.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 16, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
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That is an epic helmet paintjob. I want Tami to do one on mine! Nudge, nudge, !!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2012 - 07:39pm PT
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The one on the far left is Mao, and the one between hitler and albert e is Stalin?
Any one lose a pair of five ten gambits at exasperator on Sunday? i came home with them.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 16, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
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Missing three are Mao, Fidel Castro, and MLK me thinks. Haha, I was like what the Jeeba? Then I realized you meant the Jeezus.
Not Stalin, that's Lenin there Mike
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 16, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
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Not to Mike. He is infamous for his old smelly climbing shoe fetish. He's sniffing himself into a frenzy right now I suspect.
Freaking weirdo.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
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Yes Bruce. They reek. I made the mistake of checking the size this morning.
Relic I thought you were the one with the foot fetish? ;p
I left out 1 important character
Kieran's post awhile back reminded me of the pictures he took of me on my ffa of SDR.
Me trying to get a Alien in on Sandra's Dirty Rope, 5.9
Kieran Brownie Photo
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 17, 2012 - 01:58am PT
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Cool photo Big Mike! I'm gonna go climb your route soon! Looks fun!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2012 - 02:51am PT
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It has anchors now but apparently it's still a bit dusty. I still need to get back and give it a scrub. Luke did a great job up there.. I did very little. Thanks for your efforts Luke!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2012 - 01:36pm PT
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Couple more photos of Sandra's Dirty Rope
Big Mike getting dirty with it
Kieran Brownie Photo
Luke cleans the dirt off the ledge on second
Kieran Brownie Photo
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
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Wow.. quiet around here... must be sunny outside and everyone is playing? ;)
Luke gets some good locks on Werewolves of London 11b
A closeup of Nina and the Eagle on Fata Morgana 5.8
Nathan gets the pinch on Rutabaga 11a (p1 10a)
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MH2
climber
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May 18, 2012 - 09:56pm PT
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Don't worry, Mike. We're here. Luke said hi to me today as he drove thru the bouldering parking lot at the Chief.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 18, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
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Rutbaga first pitch is 10b ya sandbagger.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 18, 2012 - 11:38pm PT
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I'm sort of hesitant to post this picture, because if word gets out about it we'll have Klimmer here with his nephalim and arks on the moon and bible codes and alien anal probes, and who knows what else, but...
...but it is a Squamish photo, and kind of tells its own story.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 19, 2012 - 12:33am PT
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Those guys did a lot of work down there at area 44. Pretty cool spot- for a sport climbing area :-)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 20, 2012 - 04:25am PT
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Hey Squamish OG's!! I know some people spoke of it upthread but i was wondering if you need to drag the boat anchors up kneewrecker or if u can get away with the usual rack?? Anyone remember what it's like in there?? A friend wants to go take a peek.
Not looking for beta so much as wondering if it's a waste of time to bring the big cams.
Thanks in advance for the sandbagging :-)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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May 20, 2012 - 12:02pm PT
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You're just wanting to do the chimney pitch right Ryan? not the two dirty corners below it?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 20, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
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Thanks guys, haha "shoulder bruising wall load", i'll bring some bongs & a half dozen wooden wedges slung with hemp chord & the hammer!
Not too sure Luke, we were talking about doing ghost dancing maybe?? Looks like today is not the day anyhow. You climb anything up that way?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 20, 2012 - 12:54pm PT
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IIRC, you don't need any unusual gear for Kneewrecker, at least not anything unusually large. It would be difficult to fall out of the squeeze chimney itself, and again IIRC, in a few places you can get regular size protection in subsidiary cracks, or the back. As it's three or four varied pitches to get there, though, a good selection of gear is needed.
When we did it, we were harassed by some as#@&%es in a helicopter, but that probably isn't common. Still, if you had a say a #5 camalot, you could always pretend you were going to throw it at them.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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May 20, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
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Just bring singles to #3 and hope for the best :D
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 20, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
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My buddy JR and I did it a decade or more ago via Ghostdancing. Didn't bring up anything big, cuz we never owned any. We lived. Bring a broom for the gravel.
I remember asking JR why the heck did we grovel up it instead of the perfect corner crack beside it.
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MH2
climber
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May 20, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
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Too many criss-crossing lines: Ghostdancing, Arthroscopy, The Spectre. I've backed off Arthroscopy when it was wet but found it fun dry. Ghostdancing, always interesting. The description for The Spectre in McLane says to finish up Ghostdancing or Kneewrecker: Take a small rack of cams to 2", a few wires and draws. Doesn't sound shoulder-bruising.
The corner crack right of Kneewrecker is perfect for maybe the first 20 feet and after that you might find dirt and vegetation joining forces with the technical adversities. I am pretty sure that someone cleaned it once, but it didn't stay clean.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 21, 2012 - 01:16am PT
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Coming soon: The flight of the Albatross!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 21, 2012 - 02:03pm PT
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Does anyone have the time to help add a bolt to a pitch for me? It's the 5.9 Variation of the Squamish Buttress. It just needs one bolt added above the 2nd bolt, once you step around the arete. I'm not sure why we didn't put one in on the FA, but it totally should have one there to protect the dicey arete moves before the easier terrain.
Also, it's a 10a. Haha, sorry bout that too!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 21, 2012 - 10:34pm PT
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Who was up on cannabis wall yesterday?
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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May 21, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
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Guilty. Why do you ask? Btw, 2 of the heads on pitch 3 blew on me. Still easily doable with beaks and an rp2.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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May 21, 2012 - 11:05pm PT
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Atta boy Paul, way to get after it.
Is it true Croft came all the way to Canada just to silence Haggis from giving away all his stories for free?
On a historical note I am currently in possession on Big Jims copy of Anders Ourums Guide to the Squamish Chief
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 21, 2012 - 11:49pm PT
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On a historical note I am currently in possession on Big Jims copy of Anders Ourums Guide to the Squamish Chief
Never heard of the guy. Maybe someday I'll write something else, if only so as to help learn people how to spell my family name. Anyway, it's fairly definite proof that 23 year olds ought not be allowed to write guidebooks.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2012 - 12:13am PT
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Don't worry, Mike. We're here. Luke said hi to me today as he drove thru the bouldering parking lot at the Chief.
hahaha, Luke told me about that.. He didn't even know it was you until you said "Hi Luke" :)
Rutbaga first pitch is 10b ya sandbagger. KM says 10a, but I can see that :) Get on it! Definetly easier than Arrowroot.
Ya, Area 44 is pretty cool. Bring a helmet though, seriously. That place is chossy. The one climb with the pillar that's held on by chains at the top of a pile of boulders stacked on top of each other is pretty wild.
Coming soon: The flight of the Albatross!
HeHeHe... That's the truth. Those birds can fly though can't they? This one just falls.
Relic if you put that bolt in do you think it might cut the rope on the edge?
Is it true Croft came all the way to Canada just to silence Haggis from giving away all his stories for free?
Say it isn't so? Hamish is it true? If so, Get Writing!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 22, 2012 - 12:17am PT
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I was yelling at u guys while I smoked cannabis in the parking lot before goin bouldering. Seemed appropriate, although that may have just been the cannabis. Thought it might be Luke. Way to get after it guys.
Good question about the Hamish stories Luke & Mike but I was told it had nothin to do with PC comin to town but that Hamish is actually just out of stories, he already told us his whole career of stories upthread apparently, didn't u know he only ever went climbing a few times before rock shox were invented & his biking career took off??! At least that's what I heard :-) whaaaaahahaha whaaaaahhahahaha(evil laugh). Maybe I'm wrong, guess we'll just have to bait and see.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 22, 2012 - 12:40am PT
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Those birds can fly though can't they? This one just falls.
Ah, you don't give yourself enough credit ;)
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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May 22, 2012 - 12:42am PT
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Cheers. Not "guys" though, just me :-) Had the ipod cranked up, so was lost in my own little world. Nice one though, that's one way to enjoy the sh#t weather!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2012 - 02:30am PT
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The Grand Wall 13a (11a A0) lite
Ever since the time I started climbing with my ex-girlfriend in 2001 I've wanted to climb this classic. Some may view my progression as slow, and yes maybe by some peoples standards it was, but considering where I was when I started I'm pretty happy to be where i'm at today. Plus I'm still alive which is allways a bonus.
So when Luke said he was going to go up there this weekend, and Nathan was bugging me to go do something it was a no brainer.
I picked up Nathan promptly at 7 and actually beat Luke to the parking lot for the first time in my life. I was STOKED! We racked up slowly and Luke arrived and jumped out of the car ready, and him and Aislinn ran ahead.
On the way down I had informed Nathan that I had lost my water bottle yesterday and I was bringing my camera so we would need to bring a backpack. He agreed and never said a word about it, even though he hates backpacks.
We got everything together and took off running (in flip flops) through the boulders and up the trail to the Escape Flake and across to the belay at the base of Merci Me.
There was a party ahead of us of course and Luke and Aislinn too so we waited for awhile to get on the first pitch.
Nathan on Merci Me 5.9
Crappy cell phone photo as I was freezing in my t-shirt at the belay.
Nathan's theory was that I should lead the 10b traverse pitch so I could "rest up" for the Pillar. It actually worked out pretty well, I found the pitch awkward again but got up it clean and ran up the bolt ladder to find not very much room for me at the belay.
I found a spot on the left side of the tree and made it my anchor. I am sure it is affecting the Split Pillar but it seems more likely that other forces will be the real cause if it's demise. It makes a darn fine anchor and would be an excellent vantage point for photos.
With four people allready at the belay, Nathan chose to stand on the lowest tree branch.
After awhile Luke headed up, The Split Pillar 10b
Aislinn watches him closely.
And up...
He made it with a rest at the wide part and Aislinn struggled up it. It was a good effort and she was heard to say "This is HARD!"
We let her get to the rest before I started up. I got into the groove real quick and with Nathan encouraging me I was running up the thing jamming and tossing cams in every ten feet or fifteen feet, and when I got to the wide part at the top, I twisted my right hand into a insecure jam instead of taking advantage of my arm and simply thought about placing a cam for one moment too long. It must have been a good 30 footer because I passed at least three cams if not four and had a beautiful soft catch.
Unfortunatly Nathan did not fare so well on the catching end when he got sucked into the anchor and his thumb was sucked into his atc. It was a minor scratch though and he got off lucky.
After a bit of a break I placed another cam and ran up to the rest. Luke convinced me that I should layback the outside this time, so I did and I found it alot easier than chimneying behind it.
Nathan chose to go for the chimney method on his clean second because he said it was more secure.
Nathan in the slot behing the top of the Pillar.
Crappy cell phone photo
Nathan and Aislinn at the top of the Split Pillar.
We waited for a bit on top of the pillar for the party ahead and Aislinn remarked that she was rather cold. I reminded her that I was stupid enough to wear a t-shirt up here and she had a fleece and base layer on so if she could kindly be quiet it would be much appreciated.
Luke pulls the mantle on The Sword of Damocles 11a
Luke gets his stem on
There was a party behind us on the Pillar, they caught up fast!
Cell Photo
Nathan had to resort to aiding the mantle on the sword but, made it to the top of the handle before suffering a little set back right before the chains.
He was short of draws on the bolt ladder and ended up running it out
pretty hard to the anchor. I had a bit of a stinker with the slopey mantle and probably yelled take a few too many times.
Perry's Lieback 11a was my pitch, so no pictures and we had lost Luke and Ais by that time anyways. I could do the moves and linked the first couple bolts but ended up pulling out the pocket aider at the crux.
The party behind us was a nice guy named Tom and his girlfriend. They were very patient with us, although they were alot quicker.
Here is Tom topping out on the flats above Perry's Lieback.
We got to talking and he said he was from the rockies but he used to live here. Somehow Hamish's name came up and he said that he used to mountain bike with him.
The flats went pretty smooth but by the time I got up to sail flake I was done. I relinquished the lead to Nathan and he soon discovered he was pretty pooped too. He aided his way across the undercling and clambered his way out of there up the flake.
When it was my turn I tried to free the moves but ended up taking a couple times, then took the last traverse piece out and promptly fell into mid air. Hanging there, and not wanting to lower, I got my prussic cords out and aided the rope back to the last piece. I got up the flake and with that it was all over but the walking.
Nathan led bellygood and stopped to graciously offer me a belay at the narrow part. When we got to the end I took this photo.
Bellygood Exit
After we got down we went and got some eats and went to meet up with the gang at the bluffs.
What an amazing day! Can't wait to do it again!
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 22, 2012 - 03:04am PT
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Sounds like a wicked adventure Mike, good work on getting up the Grand.
Yesterday Me and a mate did Blazing Saddles in the rain, totally amazing route.
You boys been on Liquid Gold? I think that's my Friday plan...keen?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2012 - 03:19am PT
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hmm... supposed to work Friday but i'll see what I can do. it sounds like fun!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 22, 2012 - 04:48am PT
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Nice going Fish getting on the Badge in the rain. Did you tromp around up there and check out the other routes? One of the best crags in the sky in Squamish for sure.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 22, 2012 - 09:17am PT
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Yah, the chimney might take more effort and time, but I'd feel like such a dumbass if I got all the way up to the top and then popped out of the layback for some reason..... Great write up, it was an awesome day.
Edit: I did grab that fixed nut just before the mantle on the Sword, but I then proceeded to send the sh#t out of it :P Better than last time when I slipped off backwards.....
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 22, 2012 - 10:00am PT
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Truth is I've got loads of stories; problem is they all sound the same. I could make a full time job out of embarrassing myself.
Way-to-go climbing the Grand. Great picture of all the kids after.
Luc,I notice you climb mostly with your girlfriend and if you want to keep that relationship healthy, get Aislinn to clip into those huge steel rings with more than one biner. Sorry to be a nag, but that's part of parenthood. You have two bolts, two chains, two massive steel rings, and only one lonely aluminum biner. I always felt good clipping myself to the station with the actual climbing rope, even as a back-up. Sorry, I'll shut up now.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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May 22, 2012 - 10:55am PT
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Super duper story mike, way to get up there. I'm proud of you for sure.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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May 22, 2012 - 11:04am PT
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No kidding Bruce, I barely fit in there!!
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MH2
climber
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May 22, 2012 - 11:28am PT
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Good going, Mike and gang.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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May 22, 2012 - 11:41am PT
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Wait a sec, is Anders from California? A Modesto climber with a lot to be Modesto about?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 22, 2012 - 11:51am PT
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Welcome to the club Mike. You can't really claim to be a true Squamish Climber until you get your ass kicked on the Grand Wall. Just about everybody here has been humbled one way or another on that climb.
I suppose we could could cut Hamish some slack, cuz he was only seven years old when he first led it, but still...
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 22, 2012 - 12:40pm PT
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There's no way Anders is from Modesto, he's way more of a Point Grey-Kits guy.
And there's definitely nothing wrong with that. The only problem out there is the topography; too flat for a gondola.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 22, 2012 - 01:06pm PT
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Liquid gold is awesome, bring a 70m rope, a few slings & try to do the final cracks in one pitch. Such a good climb. Highly recommend. Might need a few days to dry tho since the word "Liquid" is in the name.
Nice work getting up on the grand guys! I think i saw u up there saturday morning. Thanks for the story & photos.
Hey Hamish, it's ok if you think your stories all sound the same, they are still exciting & fun to read for most of us. If you think they sound the same that's maybe because most climbing stories probably will all sound the same to most mountain bikers- even if they used to climb, just as all mountain biking stories definitely sound the same to climbers :-) It is ironic though that here we have a mountain biker packed with way more bitchin climbing stories than most of the climbers here combined who thinks his stories are boring??! So no need to worry about your own perceptions or embarrassment too much, often we are the most critical of ourselves. I think i can speak for most on here when i say that the sharing of your stories is appreciated by all! Internet Climbers are a pretty forgiving crowd that is easy to please- so long as you are talking about climbing.
You can always go back & edit the grammar!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2012 - 01:40pm PT
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Luc,I notice you climb mostly with your girlfriend and if you want to keep that relationship healthy, get Aislinn to clip into those huge steel rings with more than one biner. Sorry to be a nag, but that's part of parenthood. You have two bolts, two chains, two massive steel rings, and only one lonely aluminum biner. I always felt good clipping myself to the station with the actual climbing rope, even as a back-up. Sorry, I'll shut up now.
+1 I've told Luke that before. I use my safety and my rope end, one on each bolt ideally or at least equalized as much as possible. Although clearly I allowed Nate to choose not to safety at the sword anchor, but he was clipped into the rope with 2 biners.
Welcome to the club Mike. You can't really claim to be a true Squamish Climber until you get your ass kicked on the Grand Wall. Just about everybody here has been humbled one way or another on that climb.
Thanks Ghost. I've always felt the same way. Can't wait to go do it again!
Thanks everyone else for the compliments. It was a pretty fun story to write since I was so stoked about it.
Hey Hamish, it's ok if you think your stories all sound the same, they are still exciting & fun to read for most of us.
+1 Except I would change it to read, all of us. I was at the gym the other night and saw Peder's picture of you on Clean Crack. It was amazing to look at it and think about the story you told. It made it so much more vivid.
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MH2
climber
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May 22, 2012 - 02:04pm PT
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It made it so much more vivid.
In a humorous train-thundering Peder idea kind of way.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2012 - 02:28pm PT
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mh2 i noticed your photos have been very vivid as well lately. Have you been playing with photoshop a little?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 22, 2012 - 04:51pm PT
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I'm pretty chuffed with myself as I'm just in the door from riding up to 19th hole, then angry midget, then fred, then word of mouth, back to my house, all in less than 3 hours. I'm aware this is a foriegn language for everyone here but there are many similarities to the climbing game. Tough physically and at the same time pretty demanding on your brain. The best part is, unlike climbing, if you start to short circuit, you can just put your foot down and take a minute. Make sure you try it one day. That's my semi-annual plug for the sport.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 22, 2012 - 04:55pm PT
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As a past and sometimes current bicycle commuter, racer and triathlete, and a busy person already, I may pass on adding mountain biking to the repertoire, although I'm sure that it's fun.
Plus I have enough to be modest about already, NTTIAWWT. Luckily my fans here are quick to remind me of my shortcomings.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 22, 2012 - 06:10pm PT
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Hamish said, re mountain biking: That's my semi-annual plug for the sport.
I was lucky enough to be in on the beginning of the whole North Shore mountain bike thing. Lived just a few blocks from the top of Mountain Highway, and could take the Grouse Mtn. service road up as far as we felt like and then try our luck getting back down on whatever trail (or non-trail).
It was a blast, and I've got some wonderful memories. I rode a lot with Mike Blenkarn, whom some of you may know. Incredible rider -- an order of magnitude better than I was. Also got to watch Pete Shackleton try to break both femurs -- fortunately he wasn't successful and it was hilarious instead of tragic. Also remember coming off a drop into a sharp turn one time, stopping, and turning to watch as Barry Blanchard came sailing through the air head first and disappeared into the bush. But no bike. I'd told him that riding with toe clips hanging under the pedals was a bad idea but he was having too much fun to stop and unscreww them. One of them caught a root, the bike stopped dead, and Bubba kept going.
This was all before suspension, so by modern standards the trails we thought were so tough are probably child's play now, but it was a fun few years.
Makes climbing look safe and tame.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 22, 2012 - 09:06pm PT
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Seems like there is enough interest on here to start a separate " Squamish mountain biking photos & stories" thread(hint,hint).
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 22, 2012 - 11:24pm PT
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Sorry Ryan, I'll put a lid on the bike lingo. See if I can come up with a near-death tale for you.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 22, 2012 - 11:32pm PT
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Seems like there is enough interest on here to start a separate " Squamish mountain biking photos & stories" thread(hint,hint).
Well, yes... and no. Sometimes climbing and Mtn Biking are totally separate things, sometimes they're inextricably linked. But since the number of biking posts on this thread is about two out of 2,500, I don't think we're getting too wheel-crazy. Yet.
Anyway, here's a picture for Hamish. Bike parked at the end of a ride and the beginning of a climb. Uh... okay, at the beginning of what will be a climb (or five) once the scrubbing is done. Cliff is about 5 minutes away, and bikes are the perfect way to approach it because the roads are all gated.
Oh, I'm so bad. Not only is it a bike shot, it's not even at Squamish!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 22, 2012 - 11:37pm PT
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Michael was special. Probably still is.
Really good climber and skier, too.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 22, 2012 - 11:38pm PT
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Yeaaahh, that's more like it Hamish, FYI if you started a mtn bike thread and told harrowing bike tales i wouldn't have much to contribute but i'd definitely read them as i'm sure they are every bit as interesting as your climbing stories.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 22, 2012 - 11:55pm PT
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That might be pushing it; like I said, if it gets rough you just put your foot down.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 22, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
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I bet Hamish could tell some good stories about tree work.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 23, 2012 - 12:02am PT
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10-4; lots of near-death in that department.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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May 23, 2012 - 02:02am PT
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Good work BM. Sorry to be a nag, but the Grand and U Wall both end at the top of the Roman Chimneys, not at Dance and the Escape Route. Just sayin'. Nice pix too.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
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Hamie! Of course you are correct sir. Hence my use of the word "lite" to describe my lightness at only going half way.
Nice to hear from you! Haven't seen much of you since we went up YPLS and were too light to skip the bolt.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 23, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
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the others on the starting lineup (with a spare) included in no particular order: Don Serl, Tom Herbst, Dave Kunin, Dave Vernon, Brian Rose and Erin McGann. Of course I am a tad biased,
That kind of bias is forgivable.
But you missed a name or two. One in particular: Rob Brusse. Maybe he was gone before you arrived? Not sure. But he was the one who rolled the snowball up to the top of the hill, allowing the rest of us to have the fun of rolling it down.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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May 23, 2012 - 01:55pm PT
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Sorry Anders, Didnt mean to offend. I was simply trying to get the facts straight.
An impressionable youth like me is bound to atleast question the rumours I read on the internet...
In this case I've gotten my doasge of juicy gossip from squamish climbing rumours newest monthly webisode
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGS8re8cIVI&feature=related
...dont shoot the messenger..
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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May 23, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
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BM. I was over in Spain, hiking part of the Camino Frances, from Leon to Santiago de Campostella. It was way harder, colder and wetter than I expected. However all of my past sins are now forgiven, and I can start again!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2012 - 04:12pm PT
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Hamie- Cool! I saw a movie about that awhile ago. It sounds like quite a challenging trek!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 23, 2012 - 04:15pm PT
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The various medieval pilgrims' ways are having quite a revival in Europe, not just with North Americans. One goes through the area my family comes from in Norway, en route from Oslo to Saint Olav's cathedral in Trondheim, and is increasingly popular. Pretty cool, actually. Those with the time and energy can do stuff like the PCT, those with less energy or time, or needing more comforts can do things like the pilgrims' ways.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 23, 2012 - 05:44pm PT
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those with less energy or time, or needing more comforts can do things like the pilgrims' ways.
The pilgrims' ways? Whooo hoo! Anybody here familiar with Chaucer's Canterbury Tales? Major-league debauchery under the name of religious pilgramage.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 23, 2012 - 06:59pm PT
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One of the finer points of mountain biking is how well it works by yourself. Climbing was like that for me too as often I'd just go alone. My favorite outing was the squamish buttress as it was quick, had a great summit, and a pretty challenging final pitch. A quick hike down a perfect trail and you were back at the car in pretty good time.
I loved this little escape and it fit in nicely with my work. My career choice was heavy, as in moving lots of weight around, and being weighted down with tons of crap. Heavy steel spurs, heavy harness, steel biners, thick ropes, various chainsaws hanging off my waist, all in all pretty cumbersome. And then there was our chipper which could chip a 12 x 12; that thing was particularly annoying and obnoxious.
Needless to say, after seven or eight hours of this portable industrial nation I was usually ready for a little peace and quiet. Hauling up the slabs and the buttress with shoes and a chalkbag could erase a day of tree removal better than anything. Of course I had it wired so it wasn't a very big time commitment but it gave me the opportunity to easily escape the working world and focus on the basics.
One winter/spring day I beetled down the highway from working in Whistler and couldn't wait to be standing on the south summit. It had been raining recently but not that day; typical Squamish weather. As usual I was the only truck in the apron parking lot and as I was transforming from chainsaw guy to climber dude I kept looking up at the slabs trying to pick a dry route.
Lately I'd been going up diedre and banana peel and I was missing the snake route, mostly due to the wintery wet streak high up in the corner. On this occassion it actually looked dry up there from the safety of the parking lot. I'd battled it out with that wet streak more than a few times and had gotten pretty good at stemming around the damp stuff. Squamish style.
Off I go with my shoes, chalkbag, and little casio watch which I'd latch around my chalkbag sling as I was consumed with timing my efforts. The timer always went from the truck to the summit and it was great fun trying to beat my times and see what the body could crank off.
Everything is going great up there until I approach that often wet corner. The reason it looked so dry was because the whole thing was soaked. I felt so unstoppable I forged ahead without giving much thought about the little hand traverse after the tree. As I'm delicately stemming my way up the wet rock the weather starts to pick it up a few notches; the clouds are really cranking around and there are some crazy gusts.
Eventually I make it to that little tree, knowing I've completely committed myself as there isn't any hope in hell of downclimbing that wet corner. Very bad boy, breaking Croft's golden rule of downclimbing. Not sure what I was thinking.
Making my way around that little tree and looking out at the hand traverse my heart just sunk. Kerplunk. The entire feature was soaking wet. The whole ledge with all the slopey holds, the entire slab underneath it, where the feet would have to go, everything was drenched. I'm hanging out at that mini tree and the wind is howling and there's, of course, no one around for miles. I'm looking out there at puddles, literally, on the best looking area of the ledge and the stress is building by the minute.
I start prodding out there, hanging off my bent arms with my feet just sort of hanging there, perched against the rock, but not taking much weight at all as it felt like they'd just slide right out of there at any second. Suddenly the gust of all gusts comes up and it's blowing so hard I can hear my t-shirt flapping in the wind. My chalkbag gets flipped upside down and empties all over the entire region. It was so windy the chalk just went everywhere and then some. What a mess. Out and back I ventured, a little bit further each time. Full blown epic.
I remember being deep in conversation with myself and promissing not to keep going up the buttress if and when I finally got free of Snake. It just wasn't my day at all and I was barely in there, so to speak. The top of that hand traverse ledge was now a slurpy mixture of chalk and water and it was all I could do to cling on and scurry across without putting much weight on my feet. Eventually I worked it out and got around the corner onto that nice ledge. Unbelievable relief. The next pitch was completely soaked and took a bit of effort but nothing on that traverse.
As I clambered up a bunch of easy ground toward the boomstick turn off to the buttress I started feeling really good again and promptly broke my promise.
Up I went and the final pitch was a little wet but I always had that pretty wired. No use checking the watch at the summit because I sure wasn't setting any speed records that day.
Not the sharpest tool in the shed.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 23, 2012 - 11:37pm PT
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Ya., well cranking off angel's crest and the buttress in good time was pretty fun but it all came to a halt when I dropped a three ton tree on my tib-fib. Crushed them like two pretzls, had to cut the tree off my leg and it wasn't a pretty sight.
I promised earlier not to tell any tree stories though.
Oh the pain...15 years almost to the day.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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May 24, 2012 - 12:00am PT
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Let's hear it for the tree stories (as long as they are Squamish trees....)
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 24, 2012 - 12:05am PT
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Holy crap Hamish. Hell of a snake story. That would not have been a pretty slip and slide off the traverse. Man o' man.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 24, 2012 - 11:52am PT
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Whoah Hamish, thanks for sharing man. Yep, tips are sweating = good stuff. Well written too. Paragraphs, commas, the works!
Not much else to say about that one except good job on keeping it together despite tossing a few of your own rules out the window! Sometimes when you are fully committed, adapting to the situation is much more important than following the rules! Staying alive i think they would call it.
I will probably be able to withstand a few more 2 wheeler comments now that the climbing story fix has been satiated. Gracias.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 24, 2012 - 12:05pm PT
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Well it sounded like you wanted a story that contained a battle. That was a battle.
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MH2
climber
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May 24, 2012 - 02:47pm PT
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When it comes to writing I think Hamish should definitely listen to Tami.
But.
Hamish isn't getting paid by the word, I'm guessing.
And.
Many climbers probably get why he went on up the Buttress. If you make a plan with a partner, you usually go with it, but on your own there can be a push/pull going on inside, and sometimes you have to be patient with yourself and wait for the decision. You might arrive at the climb and not feel motivated, but after half an hour of doing nothing maybe the green light goes on.
I think Hamish is giving us the plain truth. He just felt good again.
Great story.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 24, 2012 - 05:04pm PT
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Don't listen to all these nitpicky editor wannabees! You're doing just fine, more than fine Hamish. Freaking epic! I was trying to imagine how I would have felt in your place at the tree, staring at the bleak, wet, frothing hand traverse. I know how bad I want my feet to smear nice and solid there when it's dry. I can't even imagine doing it all gooey smoo covered. Glad you didn't have a mental breakdown. I would have gone bonkers.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 24, 2012 - 05:22pm PT
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Hence the mtn. biking being a good old guy sport because if you start to short circuit, you just pull over.
There's no magical reason why I kept going other than having too much fun and wanting to tag the summit. I'd been doing the buttress till I was blue in the face in those days and I'd climbed that last pitch in the snow, rain, full on wind, you name it. I knew perfectly well how wet that final pitch would be and I had some tricks to avoid the worst of it. There was no way it was going to measure up to that slimey traverse on Snake. My main mistake that day was merely picking the wrong way up the slabs.
Character building though.
Truth is I'd had my share of mini epics on that last pitch, but not on that particular day, and no matter how cold or wet that last pitch ever got, it wasn't to be compared with that snake epic.
Once I pulled up onto the south summit in a total snowstorm. I'd seen it coming from the parking lot and just pinned it all the way up there. It started when I was at the base of the tough pitch and I remember thinking at least it was much better than rain. By the time I scrambled up to the summit, I clambered my way right into a little group of Japenese looking down at me. I never saw them till I was right at them. We all felt a little awkward, that's for sure.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 24, 2012 - 05:50pm PT
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I've twice run into wet and slimy conditions on the last two pitches of Snake, in the groove leading up to the overhang, the traverse, and the last pitch. Not solo, luckily. Once we were able to retreat, once we continued, but had to use aid and a lot of trickery. Hamish's story brought back unfond memories.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 24, 2012 - 05:51pm PT
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I'm fresh off 2 laps of that trail in Britannia; 5 star
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 24, 2012 - 06:26pm PT
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Did you guys boulder much at all when you weren't roped up? I guess the notorious squamish rocky landings and moss covered rocks hiding all the delicious holds must have deterred you guys. Pads make things so much more fun and civil now. I think you guys should lay down the bike and go fall off some pebbles once in a while maybe.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 24, 2012 - 07:08pm PT
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The holds are all too small and I couldn't even imagine falling onto anything short of 10 queen size simmons stacked on each other.
Thanks for the writing tips, lord knows I need 'em. I thought I'd described the ordeal pretty well but I guess I need to spend more time on it. I'll blame it on my son as he was moaning about how well boiled his eggs were this morning and of course the fact that it was all my fault. 8 yr. olds.... gotta love them.
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MH2
climber
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May 24, 2012 - 07:39pm PT
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I'd climbed that last pitch in the snow, rain, full on wind, you name it.
That's when you know a climb.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 24, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
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Hey Relic, careful. I asked these guys about bouldering awhile back & killed the thread for a few days. Only "real" climbers post on here! We need to pretend we are too! If u like Squamish boulders though here's a quick edit I made from the other day.
Pretty amateur but it was a fun day
http://vimeo.com/m/42637582
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 24, 2012 - 09:27pm PT
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Aren't boulders those odd grey blobs that mountain bikers jump off?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 24, 2012 - 09:43pm PT
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Exactly Anders :-)
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 24, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
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Well done filming the blobs. That was a pretty tall monopod you used, huh? Made the slab blobs look exciting even! I've been trying to get mike and Luke on crackhead but I think they are too sissyboyish for such a challenge. Like c'mon. It's a crack!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 25, 2012 - 01:04am PT
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Speaking as (I think) the only full-time professional editor and writer on this thread, I gotta say to Tami: "Yer fulla sh#t."
Of course I've probably said that to her more than a hundred times, so it doesn't mean much, but she gave up the writing gig (yes, cartooning requires mad writing skills) a while back, and that makes me the Grand High Poohbah of All Things Literary here, and I had no problem with the "Why?"
So there. You get to sit in the car while Hamish gets milk and cookies and a fresh sheet of paper and a freshly sharpened pencil.
Oh, and about the bouldering? We didn't have to boulder back in the dawn of time because we had the Smoke Bluffs. "Dude, I'm way too stoned to climb, what are we gonna do?" "Yeah, me too. So let's go nail something in the Bluffs." And now it's too late for us. Old people don't bounce so good, so all we can do is ride bicycles and then sit around drinking beer and telling each other how hard we were back when climbing still meant something.
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MH2
climber
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May 25, 2012 - 10:03am PT
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I have a long history with bouldering, starting with the buildings of my university. At the Gunks I thought it would be cool to traverse the 2 1/2 miles of the Trapps but only made it from Red Cabbage to Maria, in approx '72.
During the Chicago years I tried Gill problems at Devil's Lake and they were just as impossible as the Gill problems at the Gunks.
In Seattle I was a fixture at the UW Rock where we had the pea-gravel crash pad.
My only climbing injuries have been from bouldering: a sprained ankle and a fractured heel bone.
Then in '88 or '89 we spent a summer month in Vancouver. I went straight to MEC and asked a guy behind the climbing counter where the bouldering was. He said there was this wall behind Park Royal South, and maybe Lighthouse Park.
I didn't think to look under the moss up at Squamish.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 25, 2012 - 10:26am PT
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"Old People Don't Bounce So Good"
That's primo. Still wish I could write like that.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 25, 2012 - 12:34pm PT
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Thanks Relic, it was a painters pole with a GoPro mounted on the top. Pretty fun. As for getting Big Mike & Luke in the boulders i may have to agree. I texted Luke to climb 3 or 4 days ago & still haven't heard a reply! I used to be not so sure about the blobs myself but once you get used to the unconventional techniques it is a really cool style of climbing that only helps your overall repertoire. Just very humbling for the first while. Same with sport climbing, used to hate on it but that was only because i never did it & was scared because i had no endurance. At the end of the day though it's all climbing & it's all super fun so mixing it up & doing a bit of each has been my MO for the last few years & it really helps to keep you stoked & stops you from thinking things like-
Old people don't bounce so good, so all we can do is ride bicycles and then sit around drinking beer and telling each other how hard we were back when climbing still meant something.
i really had a good chuckle at your post ghost, it sounds like you spend a lot of time down in the cascades, you should really consider checking out the boulders in Leavenworth sometime. Some great circuits on perfect rock at all grades. Just think that getting to the top is like getting to the first piece or first bolt!
Cool that you used to do some bouldering BITD MH2, i would really love to get spanked on some Gill problems one day as well.
Just re-read your story Hamish & yes my tips are sweating again which sucks cuz' i'm about to go climbing. I think you really captured the moment. You can tell by the way it was written that it is burned into your memory so vividly that there is nothing but the honest truth as to what was happening & going through your head. The best writing when it comes to recounting tales doesn't always have the best grammar or descriptiveness, but IMO it is always the raw, honest thoughts of the person who is putting them down that makes it fun & exciting to read. you could have written this on a brown paper bag in crayon, with backwards "r's" & it still would have invoked the same emotion in the reader.
Edit; Luke did text me back, somehow my phone did not receive it or his did not send it, hence returning his status to a stand up guy, however the answer to the question of him being ready for the boulders remains unanswered :-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2012 - 09:57pm PT
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Wow Hamish. Just re-read that story myself and now my tips are sweating too! Thanks for that! Kyle says it's your best one yet.
Guillotine Flake 12a
Did Matt Maddaloni really free this thing?? Yes, he did. http://climbingnarc.com/2010/05/the-anti-cam/
So cool! Any one hear anything new about his Up From The Skies project?
Went back up to Respiration Rock the other night to give Sandra's Dirty Rope a good scrub down the other night. Thanks to Luke and Aislinn for all their work up there.
Last night I took a couple friends up there to check it out.
Forgot my memory card for my camera at home, so I used my phone instead but managed to figure out how to make the shots work last night in photoshop.
Rick starts up the overlap on SDR 5.9
Gaining the ledge.
Last nut before the anchors. Back it up.
Khyber is such a camera whore :)
It's a super fun little climb now, takes good gear in the right places.
Go hit er up!
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perswig
climber
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May 25, 2012 - 10:11pm PT
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^^
Nice small wires!
Dale
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2012 - 11:28pm PT
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Ryand- Nice video! I finally got a chance to watch it! cool angles.. You know Josh Freeman eh? I thought that was him in your Pillar story.. Tell him I said hello..
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 25, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
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Big Mike, always keeping it real with the photos. Thank you sir. Your route looks much cleaner than the last set of pics. Btw I just finished a new route myself with my friend Josh. It's a 2 min walk off the highway. Heading north from murrin park at a pullout just past Gonzales creek then walk up the grassy hill to the cliff u can see from the highway, nice spot 2 routes, one on the right is fully bolted(salmon handcuffs 11bish) & the one on the left is mostly bolts but bring a few finger cams (moby dickface 11+?) both are really fun & well protected. Great spot for a hot day, there's a nice little waterfall up there at the base. Would be a good place for a grungy dirtbag to clean up. Rings to lower off. Give em a go!!
Edit: just saw your post Mike I'll say what up to freeman for sure.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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May 26, 2012 - 12:41am PT
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Great shots mike, and rad video Ryan, I have to agree that the angle made those pebbles look bad ass, maybe when the weather gets too hot to be on the wall I'll hone my skills in the boulders. Rurp riot here I come!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 26, 2012 - 12:56am PT
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Thanks boys! Let me know when ur ready for a session! Gonna go climb some pitches in the am tomorrow then maybe hit the blocs in the afternoon so shoot me a message if u want to meet up, burn one & do some heel hooks!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 26, 2012 - 12:59am PT
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Anyone want to go exploring tomorrow? For example, looking for the original start of Squamish Buttress? The old mountaineers' route from the first to the second summit? Not much climbing may be involved, but it could be fun.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 26, 2012 - 01:21am PT
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I'm gonna head up for some early evening pebble pinching tomorrow after work. It's gonna bee way to hot on the wall. You might sweat a ball off. Perfect forest blob temps. Come out.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
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Anders- I would love to join you for some exploring one of these weekends but I need more of a heads up as I typically make plans with people before the weekend.
Ryand- I'm gonna have to have to take you up on that offer soon, but it's just so hard when there is so much dry climbable rock to play on. :)
Time for a couple quick ones.
Nina on Little Spark 5.4
Luke, Nathan and Dave on Uwall
Closer
Even closer
Kyle on Beers are not Enough
Sunset on Memorial
going climbing!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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May 27, 2012 - 04:33pm PT
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Big Mike, excellent photos, all of them. I enjoyed them muchly.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 27, 2012 - 04:56pm PT
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Hey lurkers on U wall. How's it hanging up there? How's the sopping wet fist?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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May 27, 2012 - 05:29pm PT
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Big Mike, where are Beers are Not Enough, and Little Spark? I'm just a tad out of date here.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2012 - 10:55pm PT
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Thanks Glenn! Beers is a Bruce Kay route! Not fa. I think he freed it.
It was cleaned up again recently and is a really nice moderate option for petrified wall.
One good 3/8 bolt replaced two crappy rivets at the mid crux. Whats the story on the upper pitch bruce? We skipped it cause it didn't look like it has much gear.
I got more pics today and lots more from yesterday too. I have more pictures than time!
Kyle talked to the boys recently and they were schlepping the gear across bellygood.
Edit forgot about little spark. It's at sugarloaf you know that spot where they used to hook up 200 pound rocks to public utility towers for shitz and giggles bitod.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 27, 2012 - 11:05pm PT
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Upper pitch? Are we talking about the one-pitch high Pet. wall here?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2012 - 11:19pm PT
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Hamish there is two pitches. Right of even steven. The first is 10d to a nice ledge and anchors at about 30m then a short 10b corner above it.
Bruce- yes it is better. And less fixed gear once we get rid of those old rivets. I knew you were gonna bring that up. I bet ypls is dry - that seep is probably still there but it comes out the bottom of the pinnacle and only affects the moves off the traverse.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 28, 2012 - 12:20am PT
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Geeze I guess I'm getting old. I thought I did that route but remember all those down at the end going in one pitch.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 28, 2012 - 12:31am PT
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It's a must-do just for the name.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 28, 2012 - 12:42am PT
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The FA of Petrifying Wall was by Kon Kraft and John Wurflinger, in 1970. Rather exploratory for the time. And yes, the crux off the ledge is a bit exciting.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 28, 2012 - 12:55am PT
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I want to hear stories about Uwall too Luke, something about a portaledge not being up to standard...;)
GF, did Matt or Nath have any more photos from that climb? Or you? THAT corner looks beautiful from the ground!
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 28, 2012 - 01:10am PT
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^^^^ and a topo of White Fags, the route I assume you're referring to...
(Stay tuned for a 2nd of another route matt did a few years back, the 3 pitch Lost at Sea....I believe the gear is up there waiting for me to get a day off)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 28, 2012 - 02:36am PT
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U WALL!!~!!! c'mon, give.
How about instead of glorious hard climbing stories we start with really stupid failure stories. Is that okay?
Got on U=Wall once with Peder. Long time ago. We got up the first couple of pitches and were tucked in under the roof when the rain moved in. I think we hung out for a bit, waiting to see whether it was just going to be a brief shower, but no, it was a full on rain storm. So we bailed, and rapped out to the base. But the base of the actual climbing is quite a ways up from ground level, and rather than schlep our little haul bag down the trail/scramble Peder suggested that we just boot the thing off and meet it at the real base a few hundred feet down. This would surely save us tons of time and aggravation.
The fall line isn't exactly clean, and I wasn't sure, but Peder was the Wall Master, so what could I say? We booted the bag, and watched it tumble down a little way and hang on a ledge or in some bush.
We spent the rest of the day in the pissing rain, rapping that stupid slab, freeing to bag and booting it, and watching it bounce down another ten, or twenty meters and hang up again. Over and over.
We weren't in any danger of dying or anything, so it was more funny than anything else. But we probably tripled or quadrupled the time and aggravation in getting down. And got really, really wet.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2012 - 02:45am PT
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I don't have any Uwall stories yet, but i do have some more photos from it. I meant to post this one this morning but screwed up the link.
University Wall 12a (12d Shadow) C2
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2012 - 03:47am PT
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Bruce don't undersell this sucker. It's a good one! Kyle whipped on it, and anything i've ever seen him bail on has been a worthy climb. It should be on any 10+ 11- crack addict's tick list. If only for the location, and the name.
Beers Are Not Enough 10d aka Petrifying Wall.
What was the original aid grade?
Bruce- Sounds good! looks like the weather will crap out towards the end of the week so earlier is probably better.
I thought I would give this cell photo of Tom on the pillar a better treatment.
I picked this out in photoshop last night from the uwall photo.
Clean Corner 5.9
Anyone have stories from this one? MH2 I know you've been up there your pictures looked cool!
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MH2
climber
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May 28, 2012 - 11:22am PT
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Those shots of U Wall really make the line stand out, and it is THE LINE on the Chief.
Clean Corner was a little too wide for our #5 just at the start but after that there was no need for big cams.
Come to think of it, Robert said on Saturday that he was never again going to believe anything I told him. Hey, anyone can be wrong. He was the one with the topo and he had just told me the pitch was 10+. I took a look myself that evening:
I sand-bagged myself, too, despite having previously done the black overhanging chimney. The difference may be that last time I didn't have a giant camera and helmet fighting against me as I tried to squeak out of the tight spot. Oh, well, at least there was something to do while I was hanging. If these folks from Golden, or any of the others there on Saturday want some pictures, they can contact me here.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 28, 2012 - 03:54pm PT
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Kipling's Kim is a better read, for historical fiction about the Great Game.
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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May 28, 2012 - 07:07pm PT
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"The Great Game" FFA R.B, P.S, BMacd 1985
When you've done BOP... and done the Buttress... and done the 9's and 10a's allround town... good one to "aim for" IMO... such an appealing line.
Good stuff! Wish I had a pic.... or a story 'bout it... BMacd?
A.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 28, 2012 - 08:41pm PT
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+1 sac, i wish you had a pic of it too! The Great Game is one of the best short 5.10 multi anywhere.
Every pitch is good & has it's own character. The steep last pitch is so rad & unique for it's grade in Squamish. The first pitch is burly. The corner pitch is technical.
Quality stone, good position, variety, sustained climbing= 5 stars
That's some good work Bmacd & co!
Is that really what it's named for??!
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MH2
climber
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May 28, 2012 - 09:52pm PT
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Yes, where is Bruce?
The Great Game is one of the busier routes on the Squaw(Slar-nay)
Probably Harry Young, on Straight Outa Squampton.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 28, 2012 - 10:05pm PT
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I 2nd that. There's one of the Chief's gems up in that steep gulley on the right wall. Quite a hike and a full couple of raps but what a pitch.
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MH2
climber
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May 28, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 28, 2012 - 10:50pm PT
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I think that's it! Wow, you are fast with those pics. I don't have many (12?) climbing pictures but I did that pitch and it was outstanding; just a little heavy on the approach.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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May 28, 2012 - 11:07pm PT
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I didn't take a picture but I was sitting at the base of Caboose on Saturday taking my rockshoes off and a big garter snake crawled out from under the rock I was sitting on and snaked its way past my ass and away at high speed. I was kinda disconcerted when I felt this wriggling back there. Seeing it was only a snake made it better, kinda.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 29, 2012 - 03:07am PT
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are you talking about High Plains Drifter Hamish? I have yet to do it, it is on my must do list for sure. I think there is a new approach you can do from angels crest now.
Or are you talking about that other 5.11 crack way up there Perry did.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2012 - 03:39am PT
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Andy your pictures are getting better and they were allready great! Those Birds of Prey pics are awesome, and the Great Game pics are amazing too. Thanks for that!
How was the 2pa 10+ Bold pitch on that new Barley link up left of Birds of Prey?
How about the Barley Adequate memorial via ferrata?
We hit the via ferrata on our way from the buttress to the cirque and Luke says, "pull down not out" the last couple rungs were definetly bending under my weight.
This weekend was good times. Went to Murrin on Saturday,
Nina finally led Holiday in Cambodia 5.8
Then we went to the shaman but weren't to inspired. Kyle decided he wanted to go do Even Steven so we went to Petrifying Wall and it was busy. Beers wasn't though.
Kyle on Beers Are Not Enough 10d, aka Petrifying Wall
Sometimes the crux is alot easier when you figure out the beta :)
After we refueled we ran up the Apron, Kieran and I simuled Diedre and as a result I had plenty of time to take these sweet pictures of the boys..
Racing the setting sun on Uwall
We were cheering for Solo to make it into the sun before it set and he almost did but just missed it.
Pano
Closeup
Kyle and Nina got stuck behind a party on St Vitus so we had plenty of time to wait for them and soloed over to Memorial ledge.
Kieran on Memorial
When they finally arrived it was all but dark. Kieran managed to keep the camera stable enough to capture the boys finishing thier pitch in the dark.
Kieran Brownie Photo
On the way home the moon was hiding behind a peak..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2012 - 12:00pm PT
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That's the Promised Land 11b Relic. I've always wondered about the description. "Rap in, Jumar out".
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 29, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
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That pitch is so good, if it was on the malemute the line up would stretch up to the hwy. Terrible approach though.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 29, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
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Looks awesome the promised land does. It is that beautiful corner, yes??
Awesome photo's MH2 & Big Mike, thanks!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2012 - 03:07pm PT
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Ya ryan. The one on the left side. The approach wouldn't be so bad if you ran up ultimate or angels first.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 29, 2012 - 09:11pm PT
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NN arête seems like it would be the best approach for the Promised land, less summit hopping. Relic, do high plains immediately via Borderline, bring lots of gold cams & Luke or Big Mike. One of my most memorable days on the chief. Wish i had a pic or story on that one, just remember having no water, being super pumped & taking a fall near the top of the first pitch. Second pitch is all time as well.Big day that one is. Would feel much easier if u hiked up & rapped in. Anyone OG's want to claim a better Squamish handcrack than High Plains?? Anyone got pics of it???
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 29, 2012 - 09:35pm PT
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Check out the latest corridor add-mag, the one with a ski story, kayak story, bike story, surf story, climbing story, etc. etc.. mountain culture (that's it), page 50
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 29, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
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I'll do that Hamish, thanks. Mountain Life I believe it's called.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 29, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
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Wouldn't NN Gully be the quickest approach to the "Promised Land"? You're already half way up when you traverse across to Astro Ledge, so it wouldn't be much further, and IIRC it's class 3 or class 4.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 29, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
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Hmmmm, you might be on to something Anders. I generally will choose easy 4th or 5th on rock as an approach over easy 3rd or 4th in a gulley though!! Who knows, maybe there is a way to approach it from the bottom of the gulley or traverse in on some bushy ledges, looks possible in the photos.
I'm sure it hasn't been climbed in eons.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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May 29, 2012 - 10:43pm PT
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There's a full length of the wall aid route that takes in the free Promised Land crack as the next-to-last pitch IIRC?
I heard Space Box is pretty good too. 12c chimney?
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MH2
climber
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May 29, 2012 - 11:55pm PT
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I just noticed that in the shadows of the last photo I posted (Promised Land/ NN Arete) the following feature seems to be visible. New Wave route cleaning.
I have pics of HPD but must wait a decent interval before using more space. I have about 3 pics from my first 35 years of climbing but am making up for it now.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 29, 2012 - 11:57pm PT
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That be one of the larger identifiable recent rockfall scars visible at Squamish. And it looks like there's more on the way. NN Gully may not be a very safe place for a while - there must be lots of loose stuff in it, and at its bottom.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 30, 2012 - 05:37pm PT
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Looks like Europa.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 30, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
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Hmm, i gotta get out there. It gets sun in the am there does it not Bruce??
As well I meant to ask you (or anyone here) if you've ever climbed up at lilloet edge? Looks to be nice rock with a great position over the lake. Have hiked up there & looked around a bit but never tied in.
Climbed at chek yesterday, it was bone dry. Saw people up at Nordic rock as well on my way in to work today. Fun little cliff that one is too. Dries real fast north of the big orange bridge.
There's always options around here when it rains on the Squamish granite -u may just have to reduce yourself to clipping bolts, even lower on the bitchingness scale than bouldering I've been told:-)
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 30, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
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Pemberton bump! Some wicked stone up there. Some of my favorite rock is in the boulders by the Bastion. Tiger striped granite anyone?
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Israel climbing Into the Light low start.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 30, 2012 - 09:15pm PT
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Into the light is my Nemesis.
Haven't tried it in a few yrs but used to get bouted on it all the time.
No question as to the quality of the stone out that way-stellar.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 30, 2012 - 09:54pm PT
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In my mission to kill this thread permanently, I will post another bouldering video. This one I like because it has nothing but the best problems from all around different areas of Squamish. Paradise Valley, North Walls, and even Murrin park classics are all included.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2012 - 11:55am PT
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Oh no you accomplished your mission Relic! ;)
Maybe a few photos will liven things up.
On Sunday me and Kyle ended up at the Malemute and we headed down the old trail to see if we could find Chasing Rainbows.
"Kyle I think I found it!"
This dyke feature is so cool!
Kyle starts up Chasing Rainbows 10d
Stretching it out to make the move by the bolt.
He finished it up after a whip at the crux. Fun climb, KM says "Good old fashioned protection where you can find it."
We took advantage of our location to hit another couple climbs we've been wanting to do for awhile.
This one kicked my butt.
Get your stem on!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 31, 2012 - 12:04pm PT
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Fun climb, KM says "Good old fashioned protection where you can find it."
It's been a long time since I climbed Chasing Rainbows, but that's pretty much how I remember it. Stellar climbing with somewhat sparse protection.
Was it as clean as it looks in your pictures -- a few ferns but mostly good? i.e. is it getting traffic?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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May 31, 2012 - 12:07pm PT
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Any body wanna come on a mission today?
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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May 31, 2012 - 12:28pm PT
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Pitch 1 of chasing rainbows has been lost to the moss gods.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 31, 2012 - 12:41pm PT
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Chasing Rainbows is part of the same intrusion as the Black Dyke - it lines up in air photos. It's a big, long intrusion.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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May 31, 2012 - 02:25pm PT
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Not mission impossible but its right at the tracks so it should probably a more covert mission than say the power job done to old style.
Its been included in the top 100 of the new select guide...which is just a pretty cover to basically all the stuff that was on squamish climbing and what Randy A put on flickr.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2012 - 02:26pm PT
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Hahaha. Bruce you are too funny. Check your email.
Ghost- it had a few cobwebs but was pretty clean. Someone left bail anchor on the tree at the top, guess they missed the chains on the wall behind it. Bolts all looked new.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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May 31, 2012 - 06:37pm PT
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Is Marc's new select out? If not, does anyone have an estimated release time?
I thought I heard that KM is working on a new comprehensive. If so, any release date for that one?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 31, 2012 - 06:40pm PT
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1. June 15th.
2. Next year.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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MH knows all! Thanks.
And the release date for MH's epic is........? I heard 2018, but that sounds a bit optimistic. :)
Just funnin' you, MH.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Hey Big Mike, thanks again for the pics! Never been on chasing rainbows, or even looked at it but it looks rad! Cool video Relic, good find!
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MH2
climber
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High Plains Drifter
I've done the hand crack 3 times, always on others' initiative. The first time we rapped in according to the description in the old guide:
The description was out of date. The rappel anchor was impervious to question.
The crack was secure but raspy. These are the leader's hands the next day.
Here's what the crack looks like from Angel's Crest (a better approach).
Second time we came up via Borderline and Angel's Crest.
I had heard or seen bad things about the upper pitch and didn't want to do it, but Brendan went back and says it's good.
Third time was with Robert and Matt and Bernie, allowing me to get a different camera angle.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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MH2, yes!! Thanks for those, awesome photos! the rack is gold camalots for 25m or so i had 5! slightly overhanging, perfect hands. I think I put a red, maybe a green, & a purple higher up. 2nd pitch is also awesome but very different, fingers, lieback, boulder problem to an amazing exposed finish. Yes high plains is one of the best. At least that I have been on.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Wow, that looks amazing. Thanks for the eye candy Andy
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Gather up yer gold and get on it! Which approach would be the least body wasting? I wouldn't mind doing it from a fresher perspective.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Which approach would be the least body wasting? I wouldn't mind doing it from a fresher perspective.
Take the Gondola from the Howe Sound Brewpub to the Second Summit, then have your hired sportsmen lower you to the base of the first pitch.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2012 - 02:49am PT
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Ryand- Thanks, Chasing Rainbows was rad! I will be going back to lead it when i'm feeling stonger. Definetly recommended!
Andy- Thank you so much! Those pictures are amazing!! Definetly stoke to get up there.
Relic- We should rap in and I can take photos from above.
I wasn't planning on posting any pics tonight but Andy inspired this reply.
Luke fishes another cam from his harness on The Split Pillar 10b
Nathan placing a red on Rutabaga 11a (P1 10b)
I've heard that second pitch grade is a sandbag too.
Running up the easy part
Rick on Arthritis 5.9
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2012 - 01:07pm PT
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Take the Gondola from the Howe Sound Brewpub to the Second Summit, then have your hired sportsmen lower you to the base of the first pitch.
Come on now, this ain't real but you definetly could rent a heli if you're feeling spendy. ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
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Sounds good. Is Milennium Falcon and Europa closed for falcon season too? Otherwise better bring the helmets. Probably not a bad idea anyways.
What are you doing today Bruce? Wanna go find some dry rock?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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I don't want to be a pest but that's why you two guys need a couple of bikes. Trails are perfect today so you have your back up plan.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
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Apparently exasperator is dry. Going to meet the gang there now. Call me.
My hardtail needs much love. It still has the clip in road bike pedals not flats like you guys use today. Maybe ill get it fixed up.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Clipping in is mandatory. Suffering away on flats is kind of like climbing without chalk.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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The goods eh?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2012 - 06:12pm PT
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Its pretty darn nice and dry at the base of the grand right now.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Bone dry @ work right now, friction sucks though.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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The sun has been shining for much of the day here. My desk, keyboard, computer, and monitor have been dry all day as I work. My chair has been dry. My clothes have been comfortable and dry. I have had really good coffee, juice, food, and drink.
So why am I not pleased?
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MH2
climber
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jim b was muttering about bringing his portable weber down there...
There's no sign that says you can't.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
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Still beautiful here in squish. Transfered to the bluffs for some evening climbs.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2012 - 11:54pm PT
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Nope. Dry as a bone.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The traverse, and related activities, ought to be kept as low profile as possible. The parks people for West Vancouver were once asked about whether it should be put in a climbing guidebook, and they said if that was done, they'd close the area to climbing. Perhaps partier impacts at Juniper Point in Lighthouse Park contributed to that, but still, reason to be careful.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Giving in to the dark side. On my way to Corsa to look at Stumpjumpers... You win Hamish.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2012 - 02:30pm PT
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Kyle had a big send day yesterday, and Luke was nice enough to hang a rope on Exasperator for me so I had a big photo day. Here's a teaser.
My shadow with Kyle on the sharp end of Exasperator 10c
Super good locks on the first pitch.
Almost at the first anchor!
Going climbing... more later...
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Good to hear Relic, you won't regret it.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Good to hear Relic, you won't regret it.
Yeah! I'm liking the 29 inch wheels on the new ones. Just gotta take a demo for a spin, see if I want a large or XL frame.
~~~~PAD PEOPLE ALERT~~~~
Look who I caught today, toting some old school maxi pad for his bum to fall on.
Bike Mike killing his own thread with pictures of pebbles
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markr
Trad climber
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Hey Mike, I wanted to thank you for all your updates, photos and stories. The stoke you convey in your stories has helped me get back out of my comfort zone. A few years ago I decked after some gear ripped, and since then I've had this quiet fear in the back of my mind about going for it when I'm above a piece. I'd still climb, but always seem to find some excuse not to try things above my onsight level or put myself up a route that might be damp, etc.
Anyhow, I had you guys in mind when I decided to go get on Exasperator today, the second pitch of which is right at my limit. Knowing it had been raining, I definitely remembered the way you described Luke when you guys headed up Hanging Gardens and said f*#k it. We both had an amazing experience on that awesome route, (not without some flailing on pitch 2) and I might have just opted to go climb Slot Machine if you never posted.
How did you guys end up toproping Exasperator the other weekend? Did someone have a 40m rope or did you just do the first pitch?
Also thanks for starting this thread, some amazing and stories (Hamish's stories, Jesus...so good) definitely help keep the stoke going during rainy weekends or worky weeks.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2012 - 04:15am PT
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markr- Right on man! That is so awesome to hear. Your story really touched me, and I'm glad to have been of some inspiration. Exasperator is a perfect place for a couple whippers. Especially P2 cause it trends right it makes for a super clean fall.
How did we toprope Exasperator? I'll tell you the secret. First of all we had two 70m ropes. You could probably get away with two 60's though any comment Bruce? The best way is to send it in one go from the ground, (without clipping the mid point anchor to make it a fair means ascent is the current style) then bring up your second and have them clean most of the gear except maybe a couple directionals on p2 if you need them. Then rap (with both ropes tied together and clip directionals and p1 anchor with one side on the way down.
After that make sure the knot is at the anchor and it's a simple matter of tying a figure 8 on a bight on the side with the directionals. Then the second clips in alpine style (locker on your tie in loops, locker side out). By the time they reach the anchor the knot will reach the belay and that way you don't have to pass it.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Haha. I called Big Mike, Bike Mike in my last photo. Must have Stumpjumper on my mind...
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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I can't believe my eyes...... bike chatter. Great. The other 29er people are liking is the Norco (yes, Norco) Shinobi. Looks very nice indeed.
Watch out.......pretty soon Special Kay will be spotted at the bike store.
Those stumpys are really nice. My wife and I both have Kona Satoris; pretty similar but perhaps a touch more "all-mtn". Tantalus Bike Store for those.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Ha. I was downhill riding when you guys were still pooping in diapers. That was back in the day when men were men, and sheep didn't have to be scared because riding without suspension left us unable to... Well, never mind. But seriously, we didn't even have front suspension.
Its all a matter of passing the knot without ever taking the person off belay. The way you guys did it was the most fool proof - no knot passing at all. Why didn't we ever think of that?
One of the very few deaths at Squamish was the result of trying to get a top rope set up on Exasperator. If I remember, it wasn't that they mismanaged the passing of the knot, but rather of forgetting to tie the second rope on in the first place. Very sad day. Be careful up there.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Yes - a major miscommunication.
How many climbing deaths have there been at Squamish? Not to pour cold water on everyone, but it would be useful to know. I can remember six or seven, but there may have been more.
You can rappel from the end of the second pitch of Exasperator, to the ground, with two 50 m ropes.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
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Well there's, Grace Wong (rope cut on edge of pan while jugging), The most recent one was the gentleman who took a practice fall on Flying Circus and hit his head on the flake behind the climb in the fall no?
Tony Cousins had a heart attack on World's Toughest Milkman?
The person who decked on Neat and Cool?
others?
I got a couple more pics of Kyle's onsight attempt of Exasperator.
Kyle checks out the dyke features.
He made it to the p1 anchor without incident and sunk a nice cam in while he took a rest.
The first couple pieces off the belay went pretty well, but he was feeling it big time by the time he got to the first good rest.
It's not easy after the rest either.
Getting there!
Topping out!
I just couldn't get the exposure I wanted within the time frame. Sometimes it's hard to do.
no worries about the shoes. we'll figure it out later.
Cool Bruce. We tried to find you last night with little success. If i had an iphone you would have your shoes right now :)
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MH2
climber
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Kyle looked good on Exasperator.
Here is Tim McC on it for Peder.
And another couple guys a little further up.
The photos are by Peder Ourom in an article by Geoff Powter in Explore, Canada's Outdoor Adventure Magazine, August/September 1994.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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And Greg said he'd never worn Lycra tights.
Hah!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2012 - 05:06pm PT
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Wow! Finally a proper representation of Peder's work. Thank you mh2! Cool pic of Tim Mcc, and Greg and Hamish on Genus Loci! Amazing! I had to look that one up being that i've never seen it up close before. Very cool.
damn gf's shoes look like Mythos...
I must admit, bouldering was fun yesterday. Not something I see myself pursuing full time or anything but pretty fun.
Just wanted to dispell any notion that there is any purposefull bias towards Trad climbing in this thread. The only bias is that I'm a crack addict so that's what I like to climb and photograph. I don't climb sport very much anymore so I don't get the opportunity to shoot it. There is a place for all things climbing in this thread and I encourage any contributions.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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I wasn't kidding when I said we tried to skip the scrubbing.
M.H. would have been proud of us.
Guess that's one more vote for the hip belay.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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That picture makes me want to go and give GL a shot! Maybe by the end of next year I'll be strong enough....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2012 - 11:46pm PT
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We just wear flip flops now :)
Jugging Exasperator
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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brrr its a bit chilly tonight.
Thanks for the peder photo shares MH2.
Way to go mark!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2012 - 12:01am PT
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you on the wall luke?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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i am indeed, my portalegde has wireless internet too!
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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What are you on today Luke? Did you hear all my rockfall this morning?
Kris
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MH2
climber
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Rain day dreams
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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(Peregrines in photo, but not visible.)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2012 - 02:06am PT
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Hudon paved the way. I've posted from a ledge :)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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wet morning today...
What would daryl do is right, im out of beer, and it doesnt look like this rain is gonna give up any time soon..
Does any one here know the story of how daryls folly pitch got its name...
Kris you were rainin rock over me all day...
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Wow Luke, A for effort, that's for sure.
Daryl wouldn't have been soloing. At worst he would've dragged some skid-non-climber up with him under some sort of promise of free booze if he survived.
He actually pulled that off (at least) once, towed some poor hungover speciman up the Badge. Probably would've been easier to solo.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2012 - 02:47pm PT
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Better post these before everyone sees them, now that I've outed my flickr account.
We also climbed Apron Strings on Saturday. Kyle went for the onsight on this one too, so I climbed a tree with some slings and aiders and got these shots.
Kyle starts out on Apron Strings 10b
Stemming it out for a little break.
I should have done this. I tried to run up the darn thing and my left hand was killing me at the top!
Closeup
I had a pretty sweet perch up there...
Kyle finishes it up.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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If you just had someone on sunday whites in that last photo, you would've made my day.
Great pics.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2012 - 03:05pm PT
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We'll get nathan to wear some white painters pants up there for ya :)
edit: Duh it was pretty quiet that day because of the rain earlier. That would be an amazing shot.
Hey Hamish where can i buy some tree climbing gear?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Pacific Arborist Supplies, N. Van
If it's just for the odd use, I can loan you what you need. If it's for work, best to buy new.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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It's surprising how many people don't find the no-hands rest below the crux of the first pitch of Apron Strings. Rather handy.
I may have done the second FA of it, in September 1974, with Len. Certainly an early one. At the time, there were three or four fixed pins at key locations - but then, we only had stoppers and hexes otherwise.
My photo of the Split Pillar was artfully framed by the trees, IMHO. It's about as arty as I get.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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There's a great shot of Paul Cordy climbing The Shadow pitch [12d] on U Wall, on the cover of the latest Gripped maggie. Nothing for his hands, and less for his feet. Impressive!
Anyone know Paul? Is he a local?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Is Sunday Whites the arête Hamish? I've never seen a soul on it.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Yup, it's that beauty arete in the pic. Gotta try it. 2 pitches, second one is pretty easy and takes you to the top of the flake @ the Merci-Me belay. First pitch is quite real.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Awesome photos guys! Thanks! Sunday whites is the arête of the second pitch of the flake??
Cool feature. MH2, please enlighten us as to the significance of the yin/yang reference & it's relevance to rainy Squamish weather???
Big Bike! Nice to see u in boulders, you'll get strong as hell if u keep going in there for sure, especially with that wingspan. Just stay away from the bunchy problems & seek the ones with big reaches & it will keep it fun!
So I couldn't tell from your story since u left us hanging, but did Kyle send those pitches??
The first couple pieces off the belay went pretty well, but he was feeling it big time by the time he got to the first good rest..
and then???!
Not to rub it in but I was lucky enough to get to climb some steep, dry limestone on the island the past few days & subsequently feel like I was sack beaten & am ok with a few days of rain right now, or at least until my back loosens up & the bruises on my thighs heal. A worthy option when things suck around here as they tend to this time of year & you want to totally trash yourself & get pumped.
Edit- just saw Hamish clarification of sunday whites, looks rad.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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So when you blow it on Sunday Whites do you pitch off the arete and dangle in space? Am i gonna die?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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No, not as long as the belayer is attentive.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Ok, Luc isn't belaying me then. He plays with his fanny pack while belaying too much.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Fanny pack?? Like what the bikers wear(road & mtn)?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2012 - 04:30am PT
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HaHaHaHaHa! Ya a fanny pack. He likes it because it's small and easily accessible, and it is very practical but just looks so gay ;) lol!!
Ok maybe I did leave you hanging a bit.. I thought I spoiled it though when I said he had a good send day. :) As mh2 said he was lookin good and got the onsight on Exasperator as one pitch without clipping p1 anchors.
He also onsighted both pitches of Apron Strings. He was super stoked on both climbs and proclaimed them both to be "the best climbs ever!!"
This one is for MarkR or anyone that has ever suffered a major injury as a result of a climbing accident.
I'm pretty sure I've kinda told this one or alluded to it several times. About ten years ago when we were starting out, Kyle had a near decking of his own on Mosquito 5.8. I had advised him to clip the piece under the roof long and we didn't have many short slings so it was clipped super long. He got through the crux section alright but didn't get any gear in and ended up stalled out right before the easy section.
I kept telling him to get something in, anything but he was holding on for dear life. I had bought a video camera recently and my roomates wanted to come with us that day and film so he was rolling when this happened.
(there's some sport climbing falls first. sorry old edit.)
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Luckily his story was a bit different than markr's in that my 2.5 Friend held his fall and I took about 6 feet of rope as he was falling. He did hit his foot on the bulge which is what flipped him, and sprained his ankle pretty bad if I recall correctly.
After this incident he swore off leading trad for about 6 years. Instead he focused on sport and we did a lot of it. When we did trad it was me leading or top roping harder stuff.
He slowly regained his confidence over the years and last summer him and Nina invested in thier rack and he started ripping it up again.
He's a better climber for it. Methodical and precise. He places excellent protection and often if needed.
Leading is definetly a mental game. You need to have it together or you will suffer the consequences. Fortunately there lots of ways to limit the risk.
1 Place extra gear when faced with a run out.
2 If you are way above your piece, pumped, and can't protect yourself, try and downclimb as far as possible.
3 Check your gear vigourously, and if in doubt, back it up.
4 If you know you're gonna bail in a bad situation consider a take instead of going for it.
5 Don't get in over your head.
Go have fun and push those limits, but come back home!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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6) WEAR A FRIGGIN HELMUT!
Man, he's lucky you pulled in the slack. I'm boggled as to why he didn't put more gear in, there's lots of choices available. I guess it was the inexperience, not being able to see them.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2012 - 11:44am PT
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Inexperience and fear ruled the day. Helmet is probably a good idea. Hamish says "take up mountain biking". I hurt myself more times going over the bars then i ever have on a rope.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Yes, I realized that comment was out of line.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2012 - 12:10pm PT
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Which is why you pulled it. I know, but i've been wanting to point out for some time that biking comes with its own hazards just like anything else.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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DaFannY is rad, keeps my personal items super handy. :P
Relic did ya get a bike!?! I need some one to go riding with!
FishBoy and I went for the 2nd(or maybe not)ascent of LOST AT SEA the other day, an aid route that follows the diagonal dyke to the right of the Roman Chimneys.
I got the first pitch, and I had forgotten my gloves in my haul bag on the other route Im workin on, and all I could think was how silly it was aiding with out gloves on.
Any ways I was in the middle of a healthy run out to the first bolt when in got to a dead head, I had some gear behind/below me but still would have hit the deck, I didnt have any heads on me so I hammered a pecker 1/8th of an inch into the dead head put a screamer on there(even though I was 85% sure it wouldn't hold a fall, at least it would hold the rope up so if I looked back I wouldn't feel so run out) and carried on hooking across the A3+ dyke and eventually made it to the anchors.
It waS Fishboys lead; he didnt have gloves either and NOT because he forgot them... So his pitch is rated A2+ so I insist he take the hammer(mainly so I wouldn't have to carry it), he declined and started hooking and bat hooking right above the belay towards the penji point, oh I forgot to mention his pitch had a huge pendulum on it.
After trying to do a massive pendulum that obviously wouldn't go, I suggest he look for bat holes as far as he could tension over and sure enough there was a couple bat hooks to a seam, an A2+ seam.. with out the hammer.
After a few super sketchy hand placed pecker placements up the left trending seam the one he was on popped, and he had been back cleaning them all because they definitely were body weight only, so back across he came on a giant unholy pendulum with his hand sandwiched between the rock and his body...
"Aww mate, moy hand urts mate"
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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biking comes with its own hazards just like anything else.
I started whitewater paddling when I was 13. In more than fifty years since then I've survived the whitewater, rock climbing, alpine climbing, ice climbing, skiing, and mountain biking with little more than cuts and bruises.
But I have broken what seems like half the bones in my body while road biking. And by road biking, I don't mean what a real roadie would call road biking. I've never raced, never done a bike tour, never been a "serious" road rider. I do commute on a bike, and have done for decades, but even this dangerous activity has never caused me any harm. Nope, all my accidents have come on what amounts to a short jaunt to the store, or a short ride to a friend's place. I've knocked myself unconscious, and broken ribs, collar bones, scapula, and a hip. All on trivial little rides of less than a mile.
Maybe if I thought of riding over to visit a friend as an "extreme sport" I'd have been safer.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Does Haggis even have time to bike anymore he spends all his time up SuperNacho.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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I can squeeze it all in, don't worry. 67 rides since jan01!
We're going within the hour if you'd like to join us.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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I should be leaving Squamish with a stumpy shoved inside my little car if all goes well this weekend. Hope to be riding again soon!
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Biking is way more hurty tha climbing. I only ride xc, and the amount of bark I've peeled and claret I've flowed is beyond anything on rock. Could be the lycra though.
Luke I emailed MM and he said they hammered on all pitches. I also think a crack n up is the key to getting that second pitch clean.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Awesome Ride with Hamish and Val! Thanks for inviting me out!
Mountain bike talk is going to hike jack this thread I bet!
At the truck I asked Hamish if we got a lot of climbing to get to the run we we're doing, to which he replied "Just one hill"
45 minutes of lung busting cycle climbing later, I realized that the "onee hill" started at the truck and continued to the trail head!
Then some white knuckle steep sections of wet rock and roots that seemed to go on for ever with some refreshing flowy sections at the end.
What a fun ride.
Get that bike Relic!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Haha, sandbagged on the climb. Man, I'm gonna be suckin bad on those, the "up" part. Yes, this thread has been jacked, too bad so sad.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2012 - 10:51pm PT
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Hahaha.. nice work Ryan.
Here is your reward,
Kyle sending Exasperator 10c.
Is it 10d if you do both pitches without a rest at the anchor?? ;)
Hamish- Excellent sandbagging on the kid. Thanks for the advice about the arborist gear, and offer to loan. I think if I am going to be climbing trees lots for photos I would like to have my own setup dialed in.
mh2- I agree. Our photos are like yin and yang. Here is another of the Uwall Series
This one includes Hamie's beloved Roman Chimneys.
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MH2
climber
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Very nice, Mike. Lots of memories threaded on that stone.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Hey Mike, I like that last exasper shot, cool angle that u dont usually see on that climb.I cant see it being any harder than 10c I'm afraid, seeing as there's no reason to not stop at the ledge if u need a break. As well,I do think your caption is very appropriate -Kyle sending- no ifs ands or buts about it!
As well took the pooch for a run in the bluffs today & went by respirator rock & had a peek as i hadnt been by there since it was done- that place is looking buffed! Great job Luke et all! U should put a topo up here.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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.I cant see it being any harder than 10c I'm afraid,
I always thought it was more like 10b. But then I've got small fingers.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2012 - 12:17am PT
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I was kidding of course. I'm pretty sure I had the camera close to the rock for that shot. 10b? not for these fat fingers...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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10b? not for these fat fingers...
That's the joy of grades for cracks, isn't it. I could always get pretty solid locks on Clean Crack, whereas you probably don't even want to go near that thing. But then my whole hand would probably rattle wildly around in something that's just perfect for your sausage fingers.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2012 - 01:01am PT
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So true. Clean Crack is a beast. I had the pleasure of toproping it recently and can't even get my fingers in the thing for quite awhile. I took a few falls due to crappy foot technique but once I started getting locks I did alright and I cruised the foot traverse.
All I could think about the whole time was "Hamish soloed this thing? With a train going by??" :)
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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BM thanks for the shot of the Chimneys, resplendent in the evening light. I sense that they are whispering to you, "Hey big fella, c'mon up here...."
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mike has considerably longer reach than the rest of us, and is pretty skinny, so is not entirely disadvantaged when it comes to physique.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2012 - 02:53am PT
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Great job Luke et all! U should put a topo up here.
I think that's the plan as soon as all the loose ends are tied.
BM thanks for the shot of the Chimneys, resplendent in the evening light. I sense that they are whispering to you, "Hey big fella, c'mon up here...."
I think you are right sir. They look amazing. Definetly on the list.
Mike has considerably longer reach than the rest of us, and is pretty skinny, so is not entirely disadvantaged when it comes to physique.
This is true. It is an advantage most of the time.
Hammish has little girly fingers, thats why he can climb like Lynn Hill. You and me have manly sausage fingers so we don't have to climb anywhere near as good as Lynn Hill. Thats my excuse anyway.
True, but like Ghost says, His rattly fingers are our bomber locks. Don't worry, I don't have any illusions about freeing the nose ;)
Here's one for Ryand and the sport fans.
Josh on Ancient Heart 11c
Ryand get freeman on here! ;)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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I gave Clean Crack a go once...
I sense that they are whispering to you, "Hey big fella, c'mon up here...."
-Too funny Hamie!
Tami; You gotta get your chubby little fingers out to the crag with us one of these days, and prove that you've just been taking a break to let everyone catch up!
Ryan; I gotta wait til the projects get sent to make a topo. :P And the left side still needs some more scrubbing, unless Fernando has already scrubbed it.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Well one thing is for sure. Riding a bike is a hell of a lot easier than all that.
The perfect old guy sport.
By the way, Special Kay, what's grey matter; other than the colour of our hair?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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I was trying to set up a top rope on genus loki but i couldnt find the anchors
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Not sure if Freeman knows how to work the inter web but i'll send him a link. Cool photos, i like that Clean Crack shot a lot, i did that one once too & somehow onsighted it. Probably won't go back any time soon as i'm pretty sure there's a good chance i'd whip! Awesome pitch!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Grey Matter is a face climb somewhere left of apron strings isn't it? Think Perry did the FA.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Clipping bolts is "the perfect old guy sport", at least in the warmer months.
EDIT: Of course I meant the perfect sport for old guys, not the sport for perfect old guys. Grammar!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Heres a super cool Cody Tuttle photo of Local Rock Stars Luke Neufield and Marc Leclerc getting RAD in the northwalls!
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MH2
climber
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I do detect several degrees of super coolness in that photo. Thanks for putting it up.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2012 - 09:08pm PT
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Cool pic Cody! Cool site too. Thanks for that Luke!
Here are a couple shots for hamie
Roman Chimneys close up
Closer still
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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BM: Quick, plug your ears, and lash yourself to the mast. Or is it too late?
kid: Luke Neufeld is from Nelson, and is a very talented and modest young climber/gun. Part of the next wave.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Broken video link. Is it of Lost at Sea?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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oops.. It was actually a video i found of some one sending crackhead
cant fix it now tho, cause im on my celly
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2012 - 12:13am PT
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Was it this one Luke? One hand for yes, Two hands for no. ;)
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Wierd video link. I screwed it up too.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Haha cracked in the head is more like it!
That Cody Tuttle site has some cool media on, thanks for posting Luke. Here's more bouldering, a quick edit I threw together of what we call an ADD session of my friend Rems trying to climb as many classics as possible in an hour without a break. The music is not for everyone but if you like it then we are friends.
http://vimeo.com/m/43569898
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Very nice video and nice circuit RyanD. I still haven't tried Practical Horseman or Lounge Act. Maybe this weekend! Oi, better tape up my tendons...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Thanks Relic, I told you- bouldering kills it every time! I'd reccomend Lounge Act & think its very underrated but practical horsemen isn't my favorite, still worth doing but many problems at the grade I think are way better- like Kung Fu fighter!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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I totally just went bouldering! ouch my fingies
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nice Luke! What did u get on??
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Hamish, I'm a bike mech with one of your buddies, Andrew Spat....we got talking about climbing today in the shop and connected some dots when I told him to jump on this thread...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
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You guys know who that was. He bailed this morning. No likey solo.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 10, 2012 - 12:09am PT
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Nope, his name is Spat.
They guy on Zorro was Luke...
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 10, 2012 - 01:37am PT
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Hey RyanD, we went to the Cleans and did the usuals there and then did the Tyler probs in the burial Grounds. Luke sent the Wiz in no time! It was fun times, especially the dyno on Tyler's Dihedral. I thought about putting Luke on Kung Fu Fighter, but thought his brain might explode trying to Kung fu kick up that thing. I know mine does.
This was after we all went for a nice mountain bike ride. That I won't bore you the details of. Other than I got to demo a 29er stumpy which was rad, and both Luc and Ais got flats... We had only one spare tube hahahaha
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 10, 2012 - 02:34am PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2012 - 03:24am PT
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So Luke, tell us, how was PB's handy work? What was that story you were telling me at the brew pub about calling your mom while sitting on four crappy pitons??? Were you just going for G.N.A.R. points?
http://unofficialnetworks.com/gnar/
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Jun 10, 2012 - 03:58am PT
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The tcu /hook thing has me perplexed, TKC.
Not either or?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2012 - 04:04am PT
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Think traverse. Notice the wireguards?
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Jun 10, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
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Sorry for the thread drift... but.. I am hoping some folks that follow this thread, might be able to help.
I am looking for any info, climbing related, for the UPPER DANIELS RIVER area "near"
Powell River. Perhaps more specifically, any activity on the walls in there . I've scanned CAJ looking for info, and other than J.C.'s mountain trips, not alot. Have heard from several people that climbers have ventured up there...hoping to find out what's been done (attempted?).
Aaaanyway... any info would be appreciated.
Feel free to PM me, so's to not drift this thread too far north.
Cheers.
Andy Durie
Powell River B.C.
Here's a little smpn' to stoke the fire
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Jun 11, 2012 - 07:02pm PT
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Wow... guess not, eh?
Nevermind... back OT...
hey KC... where is this?
Looks cool
Is that U-Wall upper right?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 11, 2012 - 07:14pm PT
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I believe its the 2nd pitch of rutabaga..
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 11, 2012 - 10:39pm PT
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Time to try and breathe some life back into this thread.....
I went up on Sunday with Relic and Luke and Aislinn to give White Lightning a burn.
I got a ride with Fishboy who was going for Dream Symphony I believe, with another friend, and met everyone else in the Apron parking lot. At ~0900, there were a lot of people there despite the somewhat bleak looking forecast. Diedre was already stacked.
Our original plan was to run up Rambles, but because there was a crowd there, we opted for Bottom Line. Neither Ais or Relic had been on it before, and it made for a good warmup for the rest of our slabfest. We all simuled the majority of the route, with Relic and I changing places once due to rope drag.
By the time we got up TBL, Luke and Aislinn were already at the first belay for Diedre (where White Lightning starts from) so the two of us essentially soloed up to them, with my taking an alternate route from some old school slab route once I was on belay.
I hadn't know that this was the plan, but it seems that I was the designated leader for the runout 5.9 pitch. I had been a little worried about this one, as the entire day I had been picturing that picture back from post 81 in this thread..... I was hoping I wouldn't have to lead it. Oh well. My lead..... off I went. I slung a long piece at the end of the traverse where you start going up, and stopped.
I was looking for the bolt, or a bolt, any bolt, and couldn't see any. I yelled up to the climber at the belay above me on Diedre to ask him if he could see any..... he said yeah, just across from him. Booourns. The worst part about it was knowing that once I started, downclimbing slab is rather difficult, so I was pretty much committed.
Once I mentally prepared myself, I started upwards. My strategy was three moves or so until I hit a decent spot for my foot, stop, and plan out my next couple moves. It must not have been traveled much so far this season, as it was quite gritty, and rather unnerving every time I put my foot down to hear that crunching sound. I made the belay without incident, and a couple whoops! once I hit the anchor.
At some point, I can't remember if it was while I was climbing or after I got to the belay (no bolts that entire pitch..... huuuuge runout) Luke yells up to me, "Nate! I'm thinking of retreating!"
I yelled back that if he backed off, I'd be kicking his ass once I got down. He ended up tying into the middle of the rope I led up on, and I belayed him up (he did it without any problems) and then I belayed Relic and he brought Aislinn up. She ran right up without an issue..... crazy girl.
Relic took the next lead, fairly sustained .10b with a super cool mantle up an overlap near the start of the pitch. It went up a bit after the overlap, then traversed to the right. He slipped once or twice on the glacier polish, but caught himself each time and finished clean. I had a fun waltz up there, and Luke did it quite quick as well.
Now my turn..... the crux .10c pitch. This one went up a bit to a bolt, traversed back left 12 feet or so to another bolt, then up and slightly right through a sort of groove without any visible protection or holds.
I clipped the first bolt, then stood there for a bit, psyching myself up for the second one. The hands were thin, the feet were thinner, and I ended up using what I guess are 'hand holds' for my feet. Just below the second bolt, there was a decent cup that would have been a perfect place to stand, but it seemed too redundant and hard to climb down, just to climb right back up.
Despite that bolt being another four feet or so over, and at the same height as my ankles, I was able to make a looooooong reach and clip a draw onto it (pausing for a moment as I contemplated cowboy clipping it, then deciding against it) and then another slightly less reachy clip with the rope.
With my newfound confidence bestowed upon me by having my pro just around my feet, I started upwards again. As I said, there were no visible holds, save for a little divot in the middle of the groove, and something that looked decent way up to the right; part of a dyke or something.
I managed to make my way to the divot, which was just big enough for me to fit the end of my finger onto, then slowly, slowly crept upwards whilst crimping on my one finger. Footwork! I then was able to somehow swap out my finger for my toe on my left foot, and pushed upwards reaching for the dykey thing.
With my right hand crawling towards the block, my salvation was within grasp, literally. I was inches from it, when I felt my toe pop out of the divot, and managed to just grab the hold before taking a slider that would make White Castle jealous. I was so stoked on that one, I let out another whoop! and continued up.
The next bolt was still a ways away, but along easy ground. I clipped it, and didn't see an anchor, so figured it must still be up some more. The next 20 meters were interesting climbing along an arete. The bolts were still fairly sparse (well bolted my ass!) considering the ledge fall potential if you were to blow it along there.
By the time I mantled back up onto the slab, I was encountering significant rope drag; enough that I was pulling up slack and carrying some extra in my hand in case I encountered a tricky section I didn't want to get stuck in the middle of.
I finally hit the anchor, and brought Relic up. He told me that I did actually skip the anchor down below which was just after the crux groove, but hidden. Apparently Luke made short work of the crux as well.
The last pitch was uneventful.... Relic and I both just ran up the slab to exit out of Deidre. Luke was a short ways behind us, and broke out right towards the top of Banana Peel. Humourous moment was Aislinn behind Luke yelling at him that she hated simul climbing, and Luke yelling back that they weren't simuling, despite the fact that they obviously were.
I didn't feel physically spent afterwards, but I didn't appreciate how mentally draining that route was until I tried to get on something else. I was quite exhausted.
Anyways, that's my hardest slab climb/onsight yet, and it was amazing. Great day with The Posse, and look forward to going for something else hard with them again.
Word.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 11, 2012 - 11:52pm PT
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Lol, means truth or summit like that.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 11, 2012 - 11:56pm PT
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Nice story Nate, but the thread title suggests that you should include some photos with your stories.
-if that works it a celly pic of Nate Rope Gunning up the 5.9R
Later that day Aislinn, Nate and I went to Genesis and met SuperTopo hommie Ryan D., he snapped this photo of me onsighting Genesis the self titled crack;
.
After that we met Lurker Kyle A.K.A. Scooter the Commuter at Nightmare Rock where he got the stoners' onsight on Perspective;
...In HARDMAN news I caught wind today that Mr. 'Way Honed' Will Stanhope recently scrambled the Zombie roof, perhaps the FSA - First Solo Ascent...
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 12, 2012 - 12:02am PT
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It'd be nice if we had some pictures wouldn't it! I tried to paint as pretty a picture as I could though.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 12, 2012 - 12:37am PT
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I headed up Dream Symphony with my bud Chris, who I first met outside my tent in the Grampians, Australia. He was pulling on a bong, and I knew this friendship would last, despite the fact that he is English. We are both Canadians now, so I will continue to like him. Unlike most people from England, he doesn't care about bolts, style or cider, three things which are close to my heart.
After several back country ski trips this year in which we tried to kill each other numerous times by letting avalanches off onto each other, we teamed up to climb our first slabs together, which we both dislike....not 'cos we are scared of them, but 'cos they ain't cracks. Sure. It was all a success, maybe the odd slip on the last pitch working it out though...
Chris starting up the first 10d corner of Unfinished Symphony. We climbed Dream On to get here, finding it pretty stout. Do people really 2nd that mantel on the traverse? Wow.
Chris totally sewing it up.
The 2nd last pitch for us, just before the crux slab.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 12, 2012 - 12:43am PT
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Luc, Ais, and Nate climbed so well on our little slab trip. It was fun to be the crotchedy slow old guy with them. Too bad that pic came out all dark and gloomy of Nate. That pitch is such a mind bender. I'm glad it ended well, with plenty of woops yelled out to spare.
Hamish, I bought the bike right after we got down from White Lightning. Got it nice and muddy too!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 12, 2012 - 12:52am PT
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Relic; my name has a friggin K in it.
Fishboy; sick pics eh!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 12, 2012 - 12:53am PT
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It sounds like you guys did the third pitch of WL - the one where you start not far below the Sickle tree ledge, and go diagonally up and left, then back right - and combined it with the 'direct' fourth pitch. After the third bolt on the third pitch, you're supposed to step right into Sickle, and belay there, maybe at a tree. The direct fourth pitch goes up the arete, and eventually up a slab as the angle eases, and into Diedre.
Diedre Direct is a good first pitch to start White Lightning, and get ready for the second pitch. 5.9 or so, only one bolt, get you past the hordes and warmed up.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 12, 2012 - 01:10am PT
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Ok thanks lurker from the wall Luke. Haha. Where's your hammock? Retired to hammock heaven?
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 12, 2012 - 01:16am PT
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Luc and I have a nemesis, here are some pictures of it...
It's so cute how Luc rips out this sh#t eating grin everything someone points a camera at him.
The route follows the right trending dyke, hits that flake, hits another dyke, then swings back left into those corners. 3 pitches from Bellygood to the top.
10 meters or more of hooking off the deck to the first bolt.
Nearing the 3rd bolt
Several hours later...
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 12, 2012 - 01:16am PT
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That's the way we went Anders. The anchor at the end of the 3rd pitch of WL is 2 bolts hidden on the other side of the arête after you traverse over from the 3rd bolt. Nathan missed that anchor and kept going up the bolted arête, in one long pitch.
There was a nice sized wet streak going down Diedre Direct. So that option didn't look too hot.
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LeeBow
Trad climber
Victoria BC
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Jun 12, 2012 - 01:17am PT
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Just a quick giggle for MH.
In '86 I first did White Lightning with this fellow named Jay from Ontario. Old bent bolts and fractured hangers abounded. Jay responded to each bit of horror show by chiming out "scary bits!" It became our mantra. Being the fools we are we even decided to do the last unprotected pitch. Scary bits, indeed.
When we got to the top I showed him A Question of Balance (he was keen to do more run outs). He took one look at it and announced he could walk up it backwards..."As a matter of fact I'm going to do it while eating this apple"
He then went about doing exactly that. Right before the station he wobbled and his bum touched the rock for a second, but all in all it was quite memorable. Must be some kind of a first.
CHEERS.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 12, 2012 - 01:22am PT
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So is the bolted arête a variation of the real White lightning? I'm confused. I never did understand what you guys always talk about as the last unbolted pitch. I always thought it easily joined into the end of Diedre.
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LeeBow
Trad climber
Victoria BC
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Jun 12, 2012 - 01:53am PT
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To the best of my knowledge the last pitch (now bolted) IS the last pitch of WL. In 86 the most certainly were no bolts on that slab but most sane people simply finished up on the easy dihedral of sickle. Only the truly bold and foolishly stupid were likely to try it with no pro. It just so happens I fall nicely into the latter category.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 12, 2012 - 02:14am PT
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Oh nice, great photos & stories guys! Thanks! White Lightning is awesome, & unfinished symphony as well! Was nice to meet Luke, Nate & Aislinn. I was hoping to get a shot of Luke on the lower cracks but he scampered up geneside? before i could clean the bolted face to the left on tr & get the camera out! Good climbing guys. Is there free climbing on lost at sea? Looks to be a wild slab!!!
White lightning is super cool. IIRC the anchor is kind of in a wierd spot at the base of that arete pitch. The 2 5.10 dihedral pitches on Unfinished are also among the best on the apron i'd say,where does dream symphony join up with unfinished?
So many classics.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 12, 2012 - 02:16am PT
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He took one look at it and announced he could walk up it backwards..."As a matter of fact I'm going to do it while eating this apple"
He then went about doing exactly that.
This is funny ^^^
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LeeBow
Trad climber
Victoria BC
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Jun 12, 2012 - 02:29am PT
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Thanks Ryan
The dude was super funny. Seems the giant banana slugs we have around here were novel to him...spent all his rainy days "slug spotting"
One time I was having trouble on a crack and turned it into a mobile top rope, feeling guilty I apologized for over protecting. He just looked up with a grin. "Don't worry about it, it's kind of pretty. Looks like a Christmas tree"
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 12, 2012 - 09:09am PT
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Now that's awesome :)
Tami - WL definitely felt like old school .10c at that crux pitch there....
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 12, 2012 - 09:35am PT
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My '92 guidebook says the direct finish up the arête that heads over to a bolted station on the slab next to Diedre was done by E. Spat and D. Hart Sept '90.
Alternatively traverse into Diedre at 5.9 with no protection.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 12, 2012 - 11:44am PT
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My borrowed copy of Jim Campbells Squamish Rock Climbs suggests on pads their way up the unprotected slab beside Diedre until the Diedre top out move.
Rock Climb On
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 12, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
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Relic; the hammocks safe in my gear closet, waiting for you to get on a wall with me!
I cant believe no one got excited about Zombie Roof being freesolo'd, that seems pretty real to me, like Honnold only solo's 5.12 I think, that sh#t is 13b...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 12, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
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Climbers had done some sort of "fourth pitch" to WL by the early 1980s; the question is exactly what they did? That is, did they go fairly directly to Diedre, or did they go up some distance first, and then across? And how does what Dean and Ed do fit in with that? Dean? Yoohoo - you can come out now.
As for climbing slabs backward, and other entertainment - it's quite possible on pure friction. Our legs aren't articulated the right way, so you have to more shuffle than climb. But I draw the line at doing so with a banana in hand.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 12, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
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Judging by the dotted line assigned with the letter R the first ascent party, consisting of Gordie Smaill, Steve Sutton and Paul Piro, meandered their way up the slab avoiding the easy dihedral as long as they could and eventually topped out as you would for Diedre.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 12, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
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I met a fellow by the name of Terron(sp?) at Pennylane yesterday, and he had cell phone photos of Young Stanhope ropelessly crushing every move.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 12, 2012 - 01:49pm PT
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That would be exciting, I wonder if crashpads were employed.
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Matt M
Trad climber
Alamo City
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Jun 12, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
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Chris starting up the first 10d corner of Unfinished Symphony. We climbed Dream On to get here, finding it pretty stout. Do people really 2nd that mantel on the traverse? Wow.
Yep. My partner and I tried Dream Symphony prior to it getting new SS around 2005. We had to bail below the crux slab when the sun came out and tried to melt us off the rock. We need to go back and finish it proper.
What I recall of Dream Symphony:
P1 (Mine): Looks like cake from below but then you realize the 3(?) bolts in a full pitch of 10c is QUITE the "warm up"
P2: Fun with bits of gear mixed in.
P3: This was the BIZ for me. 10d, runout above old 1/4in bolt at the time. My partner confessed later he was terrified watching me on this one. I recall being WAAAY out above the last bolt looking at a rail about 2 feet out of my reach (The rail was the obvious salvation hold as it lead right to the belay above). I just needed to get to it.... Lots of time working the moves while feeling the ticking time bombs of my tenuous toe smears SLOWLY moving off the dime edges. I had to reposition those feet more than once and more than once I was convinced I would be taking the "big ride". Finally, I unlocked those moves, made two TERRIFYING and committing moves up and slapped that "thank god" rail with a loud "WHOOOP!" My partner shouted with glee as well!
P4: The Traverse pitch mentioned above: My partner led out and traversed up and over to where you pull over the overlap. The only pro he could locate was the upwardly placed fixed pin. Not exactly confidence inspiring when, if you do fall, you'll fall and try to pull that sucker straight out. After MULTIPLE false starts, he commits to the mantle over the overlap and nails it. He then makes the traverse left, along the lip of the overlap until he can pull over the bulge and into the Unfinished Symphony corner proper and get to the belay. That didn't look HORRIBLE. I think. WELL, for the 2nd, as noted above, FOLLOWING is likely MORE intimidating since now, you'll unclip that pin BEFORE you make the mantle. Since there's little if any pro after you unclip that pin, you're looking at a pendulum fall into the corner of Anxiety State. Yikes! I was worked after reaching the belay...
P5: What a great pitch! Tenuous corner climbing and smearing while fiddling in tiny gear. The greatest challenge for me was NOT putting gear where you wanted you fingers. After a LONG pitch of climbing I had nearly reached the belay. I WAS pressed into the corner with the fingers in two small pin scars. I almost REACH the belay bolts. Only two more moves... DAMN!!!!! While making the last (and seemingly hardest) moves of the entire pitch I popped. I could've grabbed the bolt and been good but took a little ride. So close and yet... Great pith none the less.
P6: My partner really styled this pitch. While also rated 10d we both thought it felt easier than P5. Larger holds and more options for gear. What a 1-2 corner combo!
P7: The Skeleton in my climbing closet. I set off on this pitch but was both mentally and physically drained at this point. The sun had popped out and was now cooking the rock and we had underestimated our water needs. You don't realized how much you BREATHE hard when doing spicing slab!. I had several attempts at pulling the moves up and out of the corner onto the crux slab face but just couldn't muster it. So close and yet so far...
We bailed to the shade and a swim over at Murrin.
One I NEED to go finish. The name is SO appropriate... DREAM/UNFINISHED SYMPHONY!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 12, 2012 - 03:43pm PT
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I think it's amazing. Good for Will. It used to be a huge deal to climb that thing with a rope.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 12, 2012 - 03:51pm PT
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Awesome story Matt M! You had my fingers sweating on that one. My girlfriend and I hopped on that route earlier this season, we approached via snake, then we both pulled on the bolt at the 11b move...
Bail or no Bail, still a great story none the less.
Hamish; It still is a BIG DEAL to climb it with a rope!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 12, 2012 - 05:21pm PT
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Hey i admitted i was being a dink & erased my post. I also think zombie roof soloing is super badass, as well as climbing it with a rope. I was feeling a little cantankerous on this rainy morning & made the mistake of talking some sh1t when i shouldn't have. sorry, not at all why i joined the toprope. I actually joined to perv on sierra granite until i stumbled on this thread :-)
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 12, 2012 - 08:42pm PT
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Ah crap, did I miss some super taco drama? Mudslinging? Did someone spell someone else's name wrong? Phil me in
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jun 13, 2012 - 03:46pm PT
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I think it got weird when they started calling each other cute.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 13, 2012 - 05:05pm PT
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Do people really 2nd that mantel on the traverse? Wow.
My partner didn't have to follow when I led that pitch. We were planning the full Dream On, rather than Dream Symphony, and after I led that fourth pitch over the overlap and then the traverse back left, I just clipped the station and kept going up. Ran it out a ways and then got just a little too eager to get the next clip and reached waaaaayyyyy too high (forgetting my feet) and was sailing.
I sailed a long way, and came to a stop just as my butt banged into the overlap. Pretty painful. We bailed, and I was limping for almost two weeks.
But I got off easy. Ed Fischer, who was belaying me, said he got in two armfuls of slack as I was flying. If he hadn't done that I'd have smashed into the overlap at full speed and probably completely shattered my pelvis. Ed was a really good belayer.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 13, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
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Great story David! Good thing Ed was such a good belayer!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 15, 2012 - 03:47am PT
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Time to get this thing back onto the front page. No particular stories, but a few random Squamish photos...
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LeeBow
Trad climber
Victoria BC
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Jun 15, 2012 - 03:57am PT
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Hey Ghost
I know exactly where your fall fell...
Took me 20 yrs of hard work to finally pull that route all in. Worst possible fall on the whole damn route as near as I can tell!
P.S. There is a whole pitch missing from EVERY guide book.
How many people really top out?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 15, 2012 - 10:14am PT
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Thanks for the bumps I was starting to think this thread was going to fade into oblivion...
An it would have been fishboys fault.
P.s. tami its called the gunslinger... Not the mudslinger...hahah
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jun 15, 2012 - 10:31am PT
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pics 1: Rainy Day Dream Away
2: Mosquito
3: P1 Sunblessed
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 15, 2012 - 10:31am PT
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Think she was referring to the insults and name calling as mudslinging there Luc :P
Edit: Or maybe you noticed that, and it's just too early for me to catch it....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2012 - 12:02pm PT
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Hi everybody!
Thanks to all for all the stories and photos. I have been quite busy lately and it seems everytime I sit down to post, I get distracted by something else.
Should be leaving for work right now, so not much time.. Kyle gives me photos from time to time to post so here's a couple from him.
Kyle on Desparado 10c
Nina Hagen Photo
Me on Brown Ale 5.9
Kyle Koroll Photo
Classic route! Kyle bailed on it so you know it's good. He made it super hard on himself though.
Shining City 11a
Kyle Koroll Photo
Luke stands under the kiosk to get out of the pouring rain after his first day on his first attempt at Cannibus Wall
Mike Cowper Photo
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 15, 2012 - 12:22pm PT
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Yes boys! Bringing it back to life. Thanks! Awesome photos & stories, I'll wait until I have some of my own to share!
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Melissa Manson
Boulder climber
Fairfield, VT
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Jun 16, 2012 - 08:07pm PT
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It was nice to see George's name and read some climbing stories.
I still miss him every day! It's great to still see his name in climbing stories 30+ years later.
Thanks, guys!
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MH2
climber
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Jun 16, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
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People remember important things.
Here are a couple guys who I think I saw on Sunday Whites.
edit: Then they did Cruel Shoes;.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2012 - 02:17am PT
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Hi Melissa. Wow George Manson. Awesome indeed, I never knew him but I too have read the stories and it is nice to meet you.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Jun 17, 2012 - 02:55am PT
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Nice shots of Jia and our own Special (Bruce) Kay! We got out and did Teetering on the Brink of Madness that afternoon. One of the best on the Apron, although I think it's high time to replace the 1/4" bolts...
EDIT Oh, those shots were from 2005... That's why Jia looks so fresh, he wasn't a dad yet.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2012 - 03:19am PT
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That is BK! thought I recognized him. Thanks for that Scrubber. Heard he's climbing with the infamous banned bmacd at the moment.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:01am PT
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B.K. = Belay Kasual
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 17, 2012 - 01:13pm PT
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Why was bmacd banned? Did I miss something?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
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Something stemming from the Everest thread. His account has been re-activated but he hasn't posted since his banning may 25th. Come on back Bruce Mac!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 17, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
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B.K. = Belay Kasual
B.K. = Belay Knap
I think he's having a little nap after climbing the Flake. I sure needed one after climbing it with Nathan on Friday. I had just gotten sick with the cold/flu thing the day before but decided to ignore that petty viral inconvenience and climb anyways. Boy I paid for it. Nearly lost my lunch laying back on it. Nathan led it nice and smooth, even though it was quite a work out for us both. It was kinda wet and slick for the feet, kinda needs a bit of TLC in the scrubbing dept too.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 17, 2012 - 09:51pm PT
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Soloing etiquette seems a delicate subject. Setting a bad example for nOObs, passing, worrying about others dropping themselves or their equipment on you... The list is endless. Maybe it's something best done in private, like some other things. At least, that's what people who solo have suggested to me. I wouldn't know anything about it, myself.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
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Agreed Anders. +1
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 17, 2012 - 10:48pm PT
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I dunno, seems simple enough to me. I take my understanding of soloing etiquette from a gentleman who wanted to solo past a friend and I a bunch of years ago.
He waited till we were at a comfortable spot, zipped up and joined us. Lit a joint and offered to share. Then went on his way.
Sharing is good. He was a classy dude. Brother of someone who posts on this forum a lot.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:49pm PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
I am the passenger and I ride and I ride
I ride through the city's backsides
I see the stars come out of the sky
Yeah, the bright and hollow sky
You know it looks so good tonight
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2012 - 01:28pm PT
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ya i picked that one up too... someone furry maybe?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 18, 2012 - 02:38pm PT
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My god there are some horrible homonym errors/spelling mistakes in Nate's blog.
"My food skated..." has got to be the weirdest one, though.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 18, 2012 - 02:41pm PT
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I thought that was a reel white-knuckle moment. Can you imagine? Your up their solo, a million miles off the deck, in emminent danger of death. So you reach four a Big Mac and it skates out of reach.
Hart stopping!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
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But, you have a peace of gear in, so really, you're fine.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 18, 2012 - 03:40pm PT
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Totally agree with Mike and Anders.
Soloing a crowded route cannot be seen as anything but an attempt to show off, since it goes against the point of soloing. It's obnoxious and shows no regard for the people around you, unless you of course offer a joint.
I solo a bit with and without a rope, and keep myself away from everyone. I do enjoy spraying about it later on Facebook, but at least I'm not affecting other people, and the only person I really impress on Facebook is my mum.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jun 18, 2012 - 03:59pm PT
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So there is a solist who cant get to the belay because a girl who is afraid of heights is hanging mid pitch on a gear belay wont let him pass? At the same time the girls leader is also stalled mid pitch because he also cant get by a gripped belayer who has also stopped mid pitch...???
WTF????
She says he was too close when he passed by for a stranger hahahahah, holy sh#t you cant even make this sh#t up.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2012 - 04:04pm PT
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Those were his words hoser. Gear solist is more accurate I think. Would you go solo a busy route again after you were just lucky enough to get through there last time?
She should have made him hang there until I started bringing her up. If he were to fall and his backup gear ripped he would fall directly on her. This is unacceptable.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jun 18, 2012 - 07:22pm PT
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Would you go solo a busy route again after you were just lucky enough to get through there last time?
Nope, nor would I be soloing on the apron on a Saturday afternoon.
Weird shit
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 18, 2012 - 08:58pm PT
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^^^Hey Tami, it seems so obvious doesn't it, the safe and respectful thing to do, but it seems quite common out there to totally disregard other climbers?!?!?
What was it like back when you were frequenting the place? Perhaps there are a greater number of climbers these days but the ratio of these people is the same...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2012 - 09:11pm PT
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Other climbers are just people in your way nowadays. Manners don't seem to have much place in modern society unfortunatly.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 18, 2012 - 09:17pm PT
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Manners don't seem to have much place in modern society unfortunatly.
That may be true, but then it has been true at pretty much any time in the last ten thousand years.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 18, 2012 - 09:27pm PT
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So if I go solo past the conga line on Diedre this weekend, all I have to do is bring up a fanny pack full of whiskey, drugs, and snickers? Sweet! I can't wait to spray about it after on my blog. I'll bring some business cards up too and hand them out. Yeah! Party Rock!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2012 - 09:47pm PT
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nice one Jim. classic!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 19, 2012 - 12:42am PT
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Looks like an early ascent of Diedre?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 19, 2012 - 01:22am PT
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Did they pass over the backs of people banging their junks on their melons?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 19, 2012 - 01:58am PT
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Actually, I think tablespoons would protect the overlap and maybe a spatula for the exit move.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2012 - 03:46am PT
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Was the naming of "March of the kitchen utensils" a result of said incident? Or did it have more to do with the racket that must have arised from the fa's gear?
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 19, 2012 - 09:11am PT
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I heard it was named to commemorate the 'first nude ascent of Diedre.'
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2012 - 12:10pm PT
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Nice one Neal!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 19, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
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FRNFAD = First Recorded Nude Free Ascent of Diedre. It's not like our elders necessarily thought it fit to tell us everything about what they did. Discretion and understatement used to be important, before they invented television and internet forums, where people blab endlessly about themselves.
#2,900!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 20, 2012 - 01:08am PT
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There was a rockfall on the backside trail at Squamish yesterday, which is now closed while BC Parks tidies up, and assesses the situation. The rockfall is an estimated 15 - 20 tonnes, a few hundred m up from the start of the trail.
(Photo courtesy of a friendly bear, who need not be named here.)
http://www.clubtread.com/sforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=50689
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 20, 2012 - 01:21am PT
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I assume no one got smoked by that rock? If its the stairs that got hit would that mean the rockfall came from the bulletheads?
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 20, 2012 - 02:40am PT
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Anyone got the new guide?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2012 - 02:41am PT
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Will they have to re-route the trail? And re-write the guide?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 20, 2012 - 09:56am PT
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Ouch. Really fortunate it wasn't bumper-to-bumper on that staircase when the vehicle size boulder dropped down. Would've been the worst Chief accident by a mile. Phew. Safer to go mountain biking.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2012 - 11:05am PT
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Ya good thing it didnt happen on a busy saturday.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 20, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2012 - 03:48pm PT
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Those stairs look like they did ok considering they got hit by a 20 tonne chunk!!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 20, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
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Hike the Chief........
Yer gonna die!!!!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 20, 2012 - 04:48pm PT
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There's more photos now at the Club Tread link.
The trail is closed at least until this weekend, as they do the usual mopping up. They're blasting today, and apparently enforcing the closure - not a good day to do Squamish Buttress, Angel's Crest or any other route to the top of the Chief, as you may not be able to get down. http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/stawamus/ Usually BC Parks is slow to update its website, but not this time.
This does somewhat reinforce the idea of a proper loop trail, from the Stawamus River road (gravel pit), to the North Summit/Slhanay saddled, thence around the back. The old mountaineers' route.
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The Call Of K2 Lou
climber
Squamish
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Jun 20, 2012 - 08:10pm PT
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A shot of the North Walls in the afternoon sun.
Saw this fella early one morning as I pulled up to the trailhead (just south of Cheakamus Canyon). Couldn't get the camera out of my pack quick enough for a shot of him facing me, and he didn't seem particularly interested in sticking around to pose. Snob.
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The Call Of K2 Lou
climber
Squamish
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Jun 20, 2012 - 08:51pm PT
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Tami- Many thanks for the kind words. Ansel Adams I'm not; might be the Scotch? As for the name, Metallica fans (or readers of HP Lovecraft) will (hopefully) get the pun, and a bad pun at that.
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The Call Of K2 Lou
climber
Squamish
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Jun 21, 2012 - 06:00am PT
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Only on the Taco could one find a discussion of cthulus.
Jim, your remarks about the 18 year old Laphroaig are spot-on. My father, brother and I indulge in it once a year when we get together at Christmas. *sigh* Six months to go...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
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Now I get it k2 lou!
Some day the piecing together of dissociated knowledge will open such terrifying vistas of reality, and our frightful position therein, that we shall either go mad from the revalation or flee from the deadly light to the peace and safety of a new dark age.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 22, 2012 - 11:29am PT
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Hamish, turn your brain clock back to 1979. Do you remember the route Crystal Burst, 10b at the bottom of the Apron? It looks to me like one of the most popular new routes in Squamish, Rambles, might be a re-scrub of your route. Rambles goes around the 10b part at the top with an easy 5.8 steep section. Jeremy calls the 10b an alternate exit.
You should go take a look at the base of the Apron at it. Cool route.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 22, 2012 - 11:55am PT
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Noooooooo Tami, I meant to say it is now one of the most popular routes on the Apron. Rambles it's called now, a 5.8 with a 10b alt exit, which I think is Crystal Burst.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 22, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
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There was another route beside Crystal Burst at the base of the Apron. Can't remember the name now, but I remember wondering back then why they weren't more popular. I always thought it was the best way to start an Apron climb, but it sounds like they fell out of sight.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 22, 2012 - 12:26pm PT
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IIRC, Crystal Burst more or less climbs up directly to the first (second) belay on what is now called the Rambles, and then the routes more or less merge. But I make no guarantees - I may be thinking of Mickey Mouse, the route to the right. It's been a while. But one or other of the two comes directly up the slab, and then merges. Those lower Apron routes were briefly popular, about 1980 - 82, but I've very rarely seen anyone on them since then.
When I did the "Rambles" a few weeks ago, I noticed some patched bolt holes, at about the first (second) belay, which may be from old bolts.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 22, 2012 - 12:42pm PT
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Mickey Mouse starts to the right about 10m from "Rambles", crosses it and goes directly up and left of "Rambles".
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 22, 2012 - 01:08pm PT
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"Mickey Mouse" Yes, that's the other one.
So why did they fall out of favor?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 22, 2012 - 04:11pm PT
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I vaguely remember doing one of those routes, which had a short and easier second pitch leading into the forest, near the trail.
There's a new Squamish Select guidebook out, from Quickdraw Publications. The first new guidebook for Squamish and area for 4 - 5 years. Well worth a look, and available at the shops in Squamish and Vancouver.
http://www.quickdrawpublications.com/Squamish%20Select.html
Disclosure: I helped a bit with proofing and such, and apparently am to get a complimentary copy. Probably works out to a pay rate of about $1.00/hour. The proofs that I saw looked very good.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 22, 2012 - 05:01pm PT
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The new guide is super good, the photography in it especially. In it, Marc notes that Rambles shares portions of Crystal Burst. So that's what made me wonder about it.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 22, 2012 - 06:11pm PT
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Crystal Burst, Ed Seedlyhouse, those are old memories. I was there though, hand drill, quarter-inchers, bizzare climbing partner. The whole enchilada. 1978ish.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 22, 2012 - 06:42pm PT
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Edit- Sorry about all the annoying sleuthing... deleted all this nonsense.
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Jun 22, 2012 - 06:52pm PT
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relic: what exactly are you trying to point/figure out here?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 22, 2012 - 07:28pm PT
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Just trying to figure out what crystal burst is. I think Rambles is an awesome route and all that but it's not really clear if it's a long forgotten old route or a new one. Scrubbing old lines is awesome, Jeremy F has done a great service doing this. Claiming it as a new route by accident is ok too, but it should be corrected and properly credited to the first ascent party.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 22, 2012 - 07:50pm PT
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I know how many spokes are in my current mountain bike wheels but I'm a little murky on a new route from 34 years ago. I don't think it was nearly as good or as long as the climb in the pictures. 24 spokes in each wheel.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 22, 2012 - 07:55pm PT
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The Rambles at least crosses and shares a belay with Crystal Burst or Mickey Mouse, and perhaps some of the second pitch. As it's a low angle, incut crack, with lots of trees and stuff above, it'll be interesting to see how clean it stays.
It seems that we may not be going in circles on this thread.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 22, 2012 - 08:03pm PT
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I hope it will stay nice and clean from sheer usage. It's so much more fun than walking up. Sorry if I made it sound like an inquisition. I was just curious and bored waiting for that damn Nathan punk to goto MEC!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 22, 2012 - 08:03pm PT
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Thank God for Anders, the only guy left with a memory.
Funny I can't recall every step of that Crystal Burst climb nearly as well as I can remember the look on my parents' faces when Ed Seedhouse showed up at our house in Victoria to pick me up for a weekend climbing trip. He was no ordinary looking guy, maybe mid-twenties, or thirties, really hard to tell, and I was probably 13. Yikes.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 22, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
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Well, I only ever did about 5% as much climbing as most of you, and so maybe that helps me remember it.
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markr
Trad climber
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Jun 22, 2012 - 08:49pm PT
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Disclosure: I helped a bit with proofing and such, and apparently am to get a complimentary copy. Probably works out to a pay rate of about $1.00/hour. The proofs that I saw looked very good.
I guess when editing you missed poor Jasmine Caton credited as Jason Caton (!) sending Zombie IIRC. Shame, that's going to be in print like that for a while.
Mike, thanks for that video man, really cool of you to link that up, I appreciate it.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Jun 22, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
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Ha ha, I glanced at the caption of that photo not an hour ago and didn't even notice the typo. The route is My Little Pony at Chek.
I don't think I proofed that section, so I'm off the hook for that one.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 22, 2012 - 10:37pm PT
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It'll stay clean. It's the new approach to Diedre. I see parties on it all the time, and it dries quickly.
Mark thought it was cool too.. Hadn't seen it before MH linked that thread.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 22, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
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I'm nominating Jim for funniest guy involved. Where does he come up with these images in such a timely fashion?
There was nothing wrong with Seedly Edhouse, he meant well and was well behaved. Just a little frightening to see, especially first thing in the morning in the daze when everyone would sleep on the Psyche-Ledge road in no particular organized fashion whatsoever. Just bodies strewn everywhere and possibly a few empties here and there.
Anyone that actually owned a vehicle in those days was immediately in. Climbers needed to get around and vehicles, whether insured or not (J.B.), proved ultimately handy. Ed rolled in a tercel which could carry three broke climbers.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 22, 2012 - 11:06pm PT
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Too bad Hanging Gardens didn't make the cut.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 22, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
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I second the Jim nomination.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 23, 2012 - 01:10pm PT
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This talk bout Crystal Burst made me dig up an old photo of somebody repeating Mighty Mouse. It's an extra finishing pitch Brent Nixon added above Mickey Mouse. Blank stemming corner with a mantle to finish, nicely bolted
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
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Oplopanax you finally outed yourself! Nice photo. What does Mighty Mouse go at?? Looks rough.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 23, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
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11a I think?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 23, 2012 - 06:22pm PT
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Wow! Look at what is now "Rambles" in that photo Oplanax posted, that was some serious gardening tactics!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2012 - 06:29pm PT
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That's what i was thinking earlier! Much more than just a "Scrub"
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 23, 2012 - 08:55pm PT
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Holy crap. That sum serious shrubbery on pre-Rambles. Definetly a huge deforestation effort. There's no way crystal burst went up thru where I thought it did.
Hats off to Mr. Frimer and crew.
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LeeBow
Trad climber
Victoria BC
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Jun 23, 2012 - 09:14pm PT
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Three cheers for BIG ED...
He took me to Squish for my first time. We immediately set out for Slab Alley. The highest off the ground I had ever been was about 70ft. Multi-pitch was pretty intimidating for a chicken like me so as we hiked in I asked "What happens if I get up there and start to freak out and untie or something like that?"
Ed stopped in mid trail "Why? Is this something you're likely to do?"
When we got to the second pitch it was my turn to lead an easy horizontal walk out crack, complete with a couple of bolts and a mighty rating of 5.5
I was scared spitless.
"Can I take a couple of cams to back up those bolts? They look pretty old."
"Yes of course. But really it's pretty easy. If you fall off this you deserve to die"
Good times.
P.S. We did Crystal Burst that trip...the only 5.10 Ed was willing to lead...at every bolt he would clip in then cry out "Eeek, I'm scared."
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 24, 2012 - 03:16am PT
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Luke and I went went for a ride today, ditching Nathan at the Bluffs with a haul bag full of aid climbing thingies. He was excited to do his first solo aid climb, as the rocks were still kinda soaked from all the liquid sunshine we been swimming in lately. After our ride we biked up the smoke bluff trail to Zombie Roof to go heckle the aid climber.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 24, 2012 - 10:09am PT
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Ah forgot mah hammah......
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 24, 2012 - 11:32am PT
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Hehehe nice "pose" Luke! That photo is funny.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 24, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
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Possibly the first recorded ascent of Zombie Roof was by Daryl, IIRC in 1978. He aided across the roof, fixing a nut every metre or so, to enable subsequent free ascents.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 24, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
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I found that aside from a wide cam, gear after pulling the lip was fairly thin..... at one point I was a little worried. To do that part after the lip on nuts would be hardcore.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 24, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
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TheSoloClimbers first aid solo. Nicely done.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 25, 2012 - 02:13pm PT
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Nice work Nathan.
Zombie looks a lot like Bishop's Balcony.While there appears to be a good crack, it was actually a closed seam, with a few shallow pockets. This involved stacking two or three cut-off Cassins and short Leepers for each placement--an uncomfortable and tedious business when hanging from a single strand of climbing rope around the waist. Ouch! A harness would have been nice. As you can see our rock-shoes [Zillertals or Kroenhoffers], which also doubled as approach shoes, were large enough to accomodate a pair of warm wool socks.
I think I read recently that these pockets have now been whacked out enough to take small cams. Not sure if that would feel more secure or not.....
Note to Relic: No 'helmuts' back then, only the occasional Helmut at the ski hill.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 25, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
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Hamish, on such a lovely day to be in front of a warm fire, sipping hot chocolate at the Ahwannee, WHAT THEE HELL ARE YA DOIN PUNDIN PEETONS WHERE HELL FROZE OVER?
You look like yer gonna die, but didn't.
Tenacity...
Oh wait... I thought that was all snow and ice and crap. It's just an old black and white photo. Haha, oops.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 25, 2012 - 04:04pm PT
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Here's another "aiding the roof" shot from the Jurassic Era.
Hamie, you shouldn't complain about wearing socks in your Kroenhoffers. Check out the sock/shoe combo here.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 25, 2012 - 06:24pm PT
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Friendly tree belay on Tantalus?
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MH2
climber
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Jun 25, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
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Wow! You are a long way from where you were.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 25, 2012 - 07:42pm PT
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Wow! You are a long way from where you were.
I am. And I think you are, too.
But that was a fun day. Here's a (kind of dark) picture of Don following the previous pitch, just below the tree. I have no idea why he had to stretch to get that pin out, because he's a lot taller than I am.
I cleaned the last pitch by headlamp. Don had forgotten to bring a headlamp but was unalterably opposed to my totally sensible idea of pulling a bivi. Pretty much a moonless night, so I'd walk a couple of steps then turn and shine my headlamp for him. Repeat over and over again about two million times. All the way down. It was kind of exciting since neither of us had been on top of Tantalus before and had only a vague idea of which way to go to avoid tumbling over hidden cliffs. And there wasn't much of a trail back then anyway.
Edit: About the shoes. I somehow got to the base without my climbing shoes, so did the climb in Adidas running shoes.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 25, 2012 - 07:48pm PT
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Very cool photos (& moustache) Ghost & Hamie. Always wanted to do the entire T wall. Did the bottom half once & felt like pukin after the ow. Top looks brilliant. Who can chime in on the rumor that PC freed the roof pitch shown in that photo?? Guidebooks seem slightly cryptic about confirming it??
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 25, 2012 - 10:26pm PT
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Relic: No hot choccies at the Ahwahnee in our budgets. $1.00 a day, including 35 cents for smokes. The snow and ice didn't come til next month.
Here's a pic of Frank Sacherer, Gary Colliver, Penny Carr [FA Moby Dick] and a waitress from the coffee shop, hiking to the base of the lower falls.
EDIT: I just remembered that Frank and Gary made the FA of Bishop's Balcony, photo on previous page. Not really Frank's kind of climb!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 25, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
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Just counting the minutes until someone (like Tami) makes some comment about your hair.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Jun 26, 2012 - 12:18am PT
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Wow Greg! That shirt would be what? Fuchsia? Did you help to bring that colour into MEC's lineup? Maybe the brightness of it fried your hair follicles. :)
What route is that on in Yos?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 26, 2012 - 01:05am PT
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All this while Harry K sneaks in on another thread. Some welcoming committee. Sheesh!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2012 - 02:37am PT
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Awesome tale and photo Hamie! Once again, making us modern folk look like a bunch of pussies! :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2012 - 02:37am PT
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Ghost- I freed a 5.5 in my runners today, did you free much of that climb? ;) Luke and I had a similar tale getting off Milk Run, he had the light and I had none, I was following him, but kept falling behind and having to ask him to shine the light for me. Oh and we had a well established trail ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2012 - 02:37am PT
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Halarious Greg. Nice shirt indeed, a photographers dream. ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2012 - 02:37am PT
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POST #3000!!!!!!!!!!
WWHOHOo
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2012 - 02:58am PT
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We went to Funarama the other day.
Nina got on the namesake climb, Funarama 5.9
Nina on Funarama, Sandra takes down Funarampa and Someone finishes up Point Blank
Nina sets up her gear for the run.
She was sucessful in her Onsight attempt.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2012 - 03:05am PT
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After we went to Respiration and Kyle hit up Coronary Bypass and this one,
Kyle on Thorax Complaint 10c????
Kieran Brownie Photo
He struggled with the roof move and ended up taking on a micro offset nut before clipping this bomber cam.
Kieran Brownie Photo
Big Bike on belay.
Thanks for the shots Kieran!! You are a true pro.
Kieran Brownie Photo
Great scrubbin Luke!!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 26, 2012 - 05:22am PT
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Many awesome photos, thanks! Those roof cracks look killer.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 26, 2012 - 09:59am PT
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5 posts in a row are you drunk or something?
Nice work on funorama Nina!
Did you guys climb "shrimpin' ain't easy"
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 26, 2012 - 10:14am PT
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5 posts in a row are you drunk or something?
Nah. He just wanted to guarantee that he'd get #3,000
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2012 - 12:15pm PT
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Ghost is right. I wanted 3k. No shrimpin, it was wet. Redpointed sandra's again, right up the middle. Those roof cracks are fun, but hard!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 26, 2012 - 05:25pm PT
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Cool shots from Ghost and Jim B. Matching red socks, red aiders and a red harness, c/w a pink rope..... Oooooh my! and that fuchsia shirt too. Just kiddin'.
Several posts have mentioned hiking down with only one headlamp. The trick here is for the person behind to have the light, and shine it at his partner's feet. We found this out the hard way--of course.
Four of us, including a well-known climber from Golden, set out at a reasonably early time to do Louis. Since history says that Kain and MacCarthy started their FA at noon, after a leisurely picnic at the base with the ladies, we expected a similarly short day [if not shorter!]. Perhaps it was the raps which slowed us down, as four people are always slow, the raps on Louis are awkward, and walking down the scree slope is tedious. When we were all finally assembled on the trail it was midnight, and we had one headlamp between four. Duh! With four people it worked best if the third person had the headlamp.
We made it back to Canmore at about 2am, after a 20 hour day. Our egos eventually recovered.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 26, 2012 - 11:16pm PT
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Several posts have mentioned hiking down with only one headlamp. The trick here is for the person behind to have the light, and shine it at his partner's feet.
+1
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 26, 2012 - 11:40pm PT
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gf: The doctrine of V2 was determined to be "non-infallible" [huh?] which should give one some flexibility in compliance. Regardless, female visits to C4 were few and far between, esp when there was a foot of snow on the ground. Unless you had brought your own gf [no pun intended!]. The waitress in the photo served me equal amounts of hot coffee and cold shoulder--on a daily basis.
There is a story told that a climber once overheard a YPCC male employee saying to a female employee, "Never go to that climbers' campground. It's like a leper colony over there".
Big Mike, or is it Big Bike these days? Hamish F's influence perhaps? I certainly never intended to suggest that anyone is a 'pussy'. Apologies if it came out that way. I'm impressed that you guys are getting out so often. We're setting lots of all-time records for rain etc up here, and climbing days are rare.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
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+1 Ya we figured this one out eventually too.
A couple more pics
Nina contemplates the crux on Funarama 5.9
Kyle clips the horizontal on Thorax Complaint 10d
Edit: Hamie we cross posted. I know you never said anything of the sort i was simply poking a little fun at myself and modern climbers. Truth is there is always some sort of climbing to be done if one has enough will. Wetness is simply something to be dealt with as I'm sure you are well aware. Thanks for the inspiration!!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 27, 2012 - 12:02am PT
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Six years of a man's life... Gone!
And you think you've got it bad!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2012 - 12:09am PT
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dru what r you on about? ;)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 27, 2012 - 12:41am PT
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Dru may be self-referential - that is to say, Doctor Brayshaw, I presume? If so, congratulations!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 27, 2012 - 12:52am PT
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then i'd likely be quoting james not david
As in "I thought I told you to shut up?"
But he's hardly said anything lately.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 27, 2012 - 01:33am PT
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I'm lost. I have no clue what you guys are yammering about... V2? Doctor Who? Me so confused.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2012 - 02:17am PT
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Hi Silver,
Nice to hear from you, been awhile, as far as I can tell from the local guides there isn't. Unless it's new or unknown. Maybe you are thinking of Eurasian Eyes? The stunning 5.13b arete in the Bulletheads? Another amazing Jim Sandford effort. 1989.
You in the falcon business or something?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 27, 2012 - 03:28am PT
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If the answer is "Doctor Brayshaw I Presume", what was the question?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 27, 2012 - 10:36am PT
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"Amazing effort" should perhaps be saved for ascents such as Peter C's onsite first free lead of the Shadow on U Wall. Not to belittle J.S.'s new routing at all, as he brought a very modern and interesting style into squampton climbing.
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MH2
climber
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Jun 27, 2012 - 11:37am PT
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Yes. I'm only a little chicken squawking in the barnyard, but Eurasian Eyes isn't quite the amazing route which Kevin McLane's amazing photo on the cover of his '92 guide suggests. However, I can only squawk about the original 13a line, not the direct 13b from 2011 by Trevor Wood and Luc Neufeld. Marc Bourdon's new Select calls the 13b more aesthetic.
But I'd rather not try to compare Peter and Jim. Both amazing enough to me.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2012 - 11:54am PT
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Sorry, anything 13 and up is pretty amazing to this 5.11 climber. The shot of Honnold on Eurasian Eyes in the new Squamish Select is pretty amazing too.
I wouldn't bother compairing apples to oranges though, I think that Peter's efforts on The Shadow would be much better described as inspirational or extraordinary not to mention revolutionary.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 27, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
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Sounds like you may need to make a trip up here to investigate Silver!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2012 - 04:30pm PT
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Hey Silver,
Here is the pic again in hopes it inspires you to come new routing!!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 27, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
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Does the prow in question look more like a ship, or a shark?
Some impressive boulders on this end of Dance. Could be fun with a car jack. Make that a house jack.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 27, 2012 - 06:28pm PT
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Wait a sec, big mike, you're a 5.11 climber now, sick dude congrats. Wanna rope me up freeway?
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jun 27, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
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MH2 casually throws out there his thoughts on 5.13 climbing...probably in two pairs of wool socks
Tell us some stories MH2...can you tell us where and when you climbed your first 5.12?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 27, 2012 - 07:32pm PT
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Can someone please notify pc that we're patiently waiting for the details of the twall free variation..
edit;Oh, and hoser; mh2s first 12 (at squamish atleast) was the daily planet... Duh
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jun 27, 2012 - 07:40pm PT
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Pretty sure MH2 is not from around here....his first 5.12 may be one of the first 5.12's?
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MH2
climber
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Jun 27, 2012 - 07:47pm PT
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Wow, the kid is quite the historian!
It's never been my goal to climb hard. I "got on" Eurasian Eyes because of Catalin, who was a 5.13 climber, and went from there to Yos big walls, American Direct in the alps, and Cerro Torre the easy way (smiley face).
Fortunately my 5.12 route at Squamish did not make it into the new Bourdon. I believe he would not have given me credit for my top-rope FA. If Kevin comes out with a new comprehensive guide, I hope to get into the fine print, there. George of Climb On and Joe of Turley and some guy from California bolted, led, and named Ancient Teenagers.
edit
My first 5.12 could have been some F rated climb at Devil's Lake.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2012 - 02:29am PT
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Hamie- Looks more like the bow of a ship to me.
Luke I said 5.11 climber not 5.12 leader ;p
Andy- Tell us a tale of The Daily Planet!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 28, 2012 - 10:29am PT
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Sick! And when we go to the valley you can rope gun me up astroman! So psyked!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 28, 2012 - 11:25am PT
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Jim S & Peter C both seem pretty vital to the history & development of climbing at Squamish. Both put up hard routes of very different styles, Jim S did put up some trad lines too but i don't think PC did any rap bolting until he moved to the eastside. 2 totally different animals. I am still in pursuit of my first Jim S redpoint, doesn't seem like he put up many routes easier than 5.12. Dudes pull down hard to this day.
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MH2
climber
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Jun 28, 2012 - 11:44am PT
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Tell us a tale of The Daily Planet!
I only know a story about me, a wimp but a technically proficient wimp. I followed Sig Isaac up it. Pitch 4 happened to be the sort of thing I could do (and the other pitches, though they didn't play to my limestone experience back in Ontario). I could do them with the assurance of a top rope, that is.
A much better story would be Fortress of Solitude.
The Daily Planet's reputation rippled over the grapevine back in the day and I remember having it enthusiastically recommended to me by Uli and Ira Leuthasser, a talented husband/wife team from Germany, one day in Seattle down at the UW practice rock. The Europeans then were starting to teach things even to those of us who didn't travel.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 28, 2012 - 11:50am PT
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Dear Ryan.
Apples and oranges.... not even available at the same grocery store.
The End.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 28, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
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meanwhile an interesting story is developing elsewhere on the web
link?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 28, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
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Ya Hamish. Didn't you guys climb Fortress of Solitude threw the pissy rain up dirty rock and all sorts of heinousness? That's the story I heard , or made up.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 28, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
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Well that's just one of the hundred phenominal shows of strength and endurance regarding P.C. which, like I said, places him in the Apples box in an aisle all by himself, far far away from all us oranges.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 28, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
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Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe diversity is an old old wooden ship used during the civil war era.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2012 - 03:23pm PT
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Nope. Start packing! Might wanna wait an extra week though, the weather should be better.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 28, 2012 - 03:35pm PT
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closed social media sites -
Yeah, I think we should ban Greg. People like him who spend all their time on social media sites and have no real lives aren't needed here. I bet he's never done an outdoor climb in his life.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 28, 2012 - 03:38pm PT
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Well, here's one to warm up on before you try the Roman Chimneys prow. The Outside Edge. Quite an airy little scramble. Protected by use of double ropes, clipping protection in the right and left sides, so there are no bolts to mar the wilderness experience.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 28, 2012 - 03:40pm PT
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I saw him pedal his mtn. bike yesterday for five hours straight and that was outdoors.
Different topic but, speaking of new routes up by that arete on the Chimneys.... my 2 cents remembers a great looking line 100' to the right of the arete. Bring your hooks. Weren't there pictures of Luc and friends aiding a nice looking dyke there on this site recently? Mangled hands etc.?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2012 - 03:40pm PT
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hahahahahahaha!!!! who got the fa on that one Anders!! ;P
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2012 - 03:56pm PT
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Damn Tami that would be a stretch even for me!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 28, 2012 - 04:47pm PT
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So many plums... and then we started riding bikes.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 28, 2012 - 05:24pm PT
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Hamish, big 10-4 there bud, exactly what I was getting at although I couldnt come up with the analogy so eloquently as you did. Maybe more like cabbage & Saran wrap, definitely in different departments of the store but both very useful at the right time.
Anyone ever done Kashmir at the top of the Apron?? At 11c its the easiest graded Jim S route I can find in the book.
Ps some stories from fortress of solitude would be great, I think I read something about it somewhere... Maybe maddalonis site or something. Sounds like a wild place.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 28, 2012 - 05:58pm PT
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The roof pitch on the fortress is possibly the most exposed free climbing spot in this little corner of the rainforest. Or at least it felt that way.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jun 28, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
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Might wanna wait an extra week though, the weather should be better.
Thats funny sh#t right there, thats the kinda attitude you need if you want to live in the Pacific North West!
ANOTHER UPPER TROUGH WILL BRING COOLER
WEATHER AND SOME SHOWERS TUESDAY
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 28, 2012 - 06:35pm PT
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No I'm not. I just have a cracked rib and a couple of amped 8 yr. olds running circles around me on their first day of summer holidays.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 28, 2012 - 07:24pm PT
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"fortress of posers"; now that's funny.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 28, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
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Send them to Tami's daycare for hypers. Works for Dean.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 28, 2012 - 08:24pm PT
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Will Loki be attending?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 28, 2012 - 08:38pm PT
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Cracked your rib out rock climbing I would have to assume Hamish?? Couldn't have been on the bike since u can just put your foot down when it gets crazy eh?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 28, 2012 - 09:45pm PT
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Ryan if you wanna try an easy Jim Sandford route you are looking in the wrong book. Dig out Island Alpine or the Fairley Guide - south face of Golden Hinde goes at 5.4 and is Sandfords first FA.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 28, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
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Ya Ryan, your're right, I blew it and crashed. I seem to crater every 70 rides, give or take. Every injury is worse than any climbing mishap I encountered, but for some reason it still seems worth the pain. Usually it's smooth sailing but now and then all the planets don't line up correctly.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 28, 2012 - 10:16pm PT
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Hey Oplanax, thx for the recommend, Jim B wise words.
Heal up Well Hamish!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 28, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
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Thanks Jim and Ryan. No problem for a big outfit like this. Hey Jim, keep those pics. coming. Ed S. drawing was some of your best work.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2012 - 10:23pm PT
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Sorry to hear about your rib Hamish! Heal well!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 28, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
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OK you guys. No ribbing Hamish. No tickling, telling bad jokes...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 28, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
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Le Bruce that's p2 or 3 depending how you put it together of Sprung Cocks
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 28, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
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Thanks Mike; don't be sorry at all. You wanna play, you'll have to pay. A couple of ribs a year is totally acceptable for the amount of fun going on. It's just the flipside of why that sport is so mentally stimulating, that's all. I did squeeze 70 something killer rides in since my last rib-owee. Just a numbers game.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
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Wow looks awesome Bruce! Where is it?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 28, 2012 - 11:47pm PT
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That photo is awesome Bruce that crack looks stellar.
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harryhotdog
Mountain climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 29, 2012 - 12:04am PT
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As a new member at supertopo I have to inform all of you that there has been a great deception that has been perpetrated on all of you. Jim Brennan is NOT a trad climber like his moniker implies. After climbing numerous sport routes in Skaha that day in 1990, Jim is following a gear route and takes a cursory jiggle of the gear before declaring in that prepubecsent sport climber's whine."It's STUCK" It's as if spending more than a couple of seconds trying might harsh his mellow or something. Then at the top he is clearly in distress after climbing a 5.4 crack! I also know that just like all his retro gear from the 1950's that he still uses, he also has in his closet various pairs of multi coloured lycra that he only brings out for special occasions. All this leads to only one conclusion. Jim Brennan is a closet sport climber. [youtube=http://youtu.be/rsNaCXo94nc]
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Jun 29, 2012 - 12:42am PT
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All big routes should be done with a partner in equal awe of the objective, that's where the best value lies.
Word up J.B.! Where it's at yo!!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 29, 2012 - 01:47am PT
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50 years ago this August, Glenn, his brother Bob, Tony E and I made the FA of the higher Anderson River Peak. Now that's a scarey number. Being of reasonable intelligence, we scrambled up the right side somewhere, at about Class 1. None of this crazy stuff that BK relishes. It was probably my first FA of an unclimbed summit.
The second photo shows Glenn/Nails/Tricouni on the way back. In BC bush it is often easiest to hike down the creeks, esp in late summer.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2012 - 03:28am PT
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Wow guys! Super cool. Anderson looks awesome!
Me and my buddy Rick ditched work this afternoon to go climbing, but by the time we got home to grab gear and check the webcams, the deluge had allready begun in Squamish.
Being that it was still dry in Whistler, we were determined to get out so we decided to head up to Suicide Bluffs.
Crossing the Green
Ok so it wasn't a beautiful day but it was dry so we made the most of it.
I suggested we do It's Not Easy Being Green as a warm-up, but Rick was uninterested in repeating it so we went and found something new.
Rick tied in for: Poop Ship Destroyer 5.9???
I'm pretty sure we had top-roped this at one point with Jesse, and Rick thought he had also.
Rick tried the opening moves a couple times, but couldn't get to the first piece and decided to back down. We thought about toproping it but I was pretty sure i could get it done, so I decided to give it a shot.
I found the "secret" aka "covered in moss" hold and was able to reach and clip the first piece giving me a bit more confidence. It seemed the gear got better as I went, and I gained confidence as I climbed. I got er done, and was pretty stoked on the heady lead.
Rick on TR
After we went to The Big Tree 5.9 because Rick hadn't done it yet and I knew he would like it.
Clipping the first piece
Suicide is awesome, and it needs more love! Go climb there. Bring small cams and micronuts and your brain cause placing gear ain't like Squamish.
topo: http://www.drtopo.com/submitted/suicide.pdf
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jun 29, 2012 - 11:00am PT
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Hamie wrote...
we scrambled up the right side somewhere, at about Class 1.
Actually, Hamie, it was the left-hand skyline we scrambled up. We were all blown away by the scale of the walls in the area.
This was my second attempt on that peak. First was in spring, with Dick Culbert. We forded the flooding Anderson River (I almost drowned), camped, waited out the night in heavy rains, and bailed. River was very low in August with Hamie et al., and the weather was excellent.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jun 29, 2012 - 11:48am PT
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Hi gj,
Good weather?? I hope you're right, but I don't see it yet. I'm working through the end of August, then I'm free. We usually get great weather in September.. It's a very tiny project, but might be interesting.
G
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 29, 2012 - 12:11pm PT
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Glenn, Hamish - was your trip to Anderson River after the BCMC Falls River summer camp? Did you get there from the Fraser or the Coquihalla side?
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MH2
climber
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Jun 29, 2012 - 12:49pm PT
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Hahahaha. Thanks, Bruce. It had been so long since I saw "Class I" used that I didn't realize the absurdity of it. You are so right, that sort of sandbag has come around full circle.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jun 29, 2012 - 01:01pm PT
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Glenn, Hamish - was your trip to Anderson River after the BCMC Falls River summer camp? Did you get there from the Fraser or the Coquihalla si
It was Aug 31, 1962, 2 years before BCMC Falls River trip and just after Dick & I and Ashlyn & Arnold got back from Howsons and Seven Sisters. The spring trip was also 1962, before that summer. I'd forgotten that I also made a solo attempt in 1960 or 1961, that ended in a rainstorm.
All those trips approached from the Fraser. I'd have to look at notes to see how far the road went.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jun 29, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
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Can you believe this ? It rained !!!! It bleedin' poured on us.
Rain?? In the Anderson Rivers? That area is supposed to be in the banana belt.
Maybe John R was John Rance? He was active around that time.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 29, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
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According to Dick's blue book,we drove up Gilt Ck. Access was limited as there weren't as many logging roads, and noone had 4WD. Well, Dick did own a POS Jeep for a few months that year, but I'm not sure if he managed to sell it, or just abandoned it. Otherwise we used cars like Tami's, with similar results, which people borrowed from obliging parents. It was a 2 day trip, and we bivvied at "a major fork". Prophetically, Dick wrote "The east faces are spectacular granite formations". Indeed.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jun 29, 2012 - 02:35pm PT
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Anderson Rivers, Aug 1962:
North ridge of Ibex Peak. It's class 1, but it looks a bit twitchy higher up. I don't remember any twitchiness, though.
Bob Woodsworth, Asgar Bentzen, and Hamie on the way to Ibex in the Anderson Rivers.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jun 29, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
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If you go to Anderson, dont follow Alpine Select beta...thats all grown in and pretty much not happening.
BK with the 14 day forecast...almost like your not from around here....
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jun 29, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
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Roads fine, approach across valley to old growth forest is epic. I heard somewhere its better to approach from other side and drop down from steinbok col....the guide for the area is here with reference to the non existant trail.
http://www.squamishclimbing.com/topos/Anderson-River-1207.pdf
I agree there will be dy days between July 7-July 15....but thats hardly a forecast
From your same site looking at the longest range they have...no sign of the summer ridge
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2012 - 03:54pm PT
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The weather patterns are so screwed up these days the models are having trouble making hide nor hair of it. This ridge does tend to keep pushing back in though, it seems like we've had drier weather here in whistler than squamish has had this month..
Oh Well.. Off to SKAHA!!!!
Henkle romps up Black Widow 5.8
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 29, 2012 - 04:24pm PT
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Keep this Anderson River talk in the Chehalis Peaks thread already dammit!
;D
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jun 29, 2012 - 06:02pm PT
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The models seem to be doing fine to me, we just dont like what they have to say. June sucks always has always will.
The high NW of Texas is the one BK hopes arrives between July 7-15...maybe
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 29, 2012 - 06:53pm PT
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Hey mALemute! What woke you up?
Drew's comment reminded me of the Question of the Week.
If the answer is "Dr. Brayshaw I Presume", what was the question?
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jun 29, 2012 - 07:23pm PT
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If google didnt exist who would you ask?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 29, 2012 - 11:49pm PT
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All quiet on the Squamish front tonight.
If the answer was "Dr. Brayshaw I Presume",
then the question was......
suspenseful pause.............
"Dr. Presume, what is your full name?"
grooooooan.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2012 - 12:00am PT
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Hello from the beautiful desert! We are Currently travelling through the high country on 97c weather looks promising! Hamie what are you up to this weekend? Come visit us in penticton! We'll throw you some belays!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 30, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
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BM
Skaha--
--too far.
I hope your forecast is better than ours. It's pouring here.
Rain--
--again.
The new Bourdon guide arrived yesterday. Looks pretty good. Now I'll know where and what you guys are talking about.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
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Hamie- too bad. It pissed on us briefly this morning but it looks to be drying up fairly quickly. Gotta love the desert for that!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 30, 2012 - 08:24pm PT
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Have fun Big Mike & co. I was in skaha for the first time last week for 4 days, it rained every day, when it would start we would eat lunch under an overhang then start climbing again when we were done digesting. Unlike Squam rain doesnt seem to be much of a factor there, even when it rains.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2012 - 09:15pm PT
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Funny Ryan. I would have said the same thing yesterday, but when they say "SEVERE THUDERSTORM WARNING" They ain't bullsh#tin! Still got one pitch in though!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 30, 2012 - 11:29pm PT
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You have such a killer set of photos up on flickr -i am fully enjoying them over a glass (or 2) of red-nice work
hmmmm. I checked them out, and the first thing I saw was someone called "Heidi's Passions" drooling all over. Is that normal on flickr? If I put climbing photos there will groupies swarm?
But yeah, some good photos.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Sign me up for Klooch too.Will post some video of Ed here if Andrew says it's ok.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I like how in Andy's second photo there's a heron coming around the corner below the climber. Serendipity, perhaps, but still a nice touch.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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plus our good friend to the south ghost will be in country and may grace us with his presence if we are lucky.
It's a big country, and the part of it we'll be heading for is so flat that at sunset you can see an ant walking across the horizon. There may be stops along the way in Skaha, or in the Canmore area, but unfortunately not on the coast.
We'll be up in Squamish a few times later this summer, though, and would definitely like to renew some old acquaintences and make some new ones.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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If it's monday on the North Shore you're after, you'll need your two-wheeler. Best of luck keeping up with Ward in his 59th year, he's as fit as a faller.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Fallers don't go up the trees, they stay at the base. Ward is an athlete, be it with a power-saw, bike, or skiis. Quite something to witness. 60 is the new 40!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Word on the street was that Harry got himself a bike....
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MH2
climber
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YES! Welcome to Harry and his stories and photos and bike.
Tami, I'm guessing you know how close the traverse is to LHP? Not so much for the rock but for the relative solitude and the trails and views. If there is too much happening at LHP, or too many cars.
Anders, the young red-haired woman may be Norwegian. There were 4 people in the group and they weren't speaking English. My photo is a composite. If you check the image label it says 6695_96, which is to remind me and let other people know it's not strictly legit. However, the 2 pictures were taken only 21 seconds apart, so if the heron and seal had showed up just a little earlier, that's what it would have looked like.
Reminder: the Moon is near full again. Moonrise at 2025 tomorrow and 2111 July 3.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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A visit on Wednesday seems apropros, then. We'd better car pool. What time, where? As Big Dave and Little Dave found the thing, in the early 1980s, I'll let them know of the plan, especially Dave Nicol, who for years organized the midsummer festivities there.
It would seem a bit unusual for visiting climbers, e.g. Norwegians, to find their way there, but perhaps with some local knowledge?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Be careful on that traverse, Anders. Jim B. sandbagged me on my first time there...nike runners, no chalk,etc.. tough go. Take your rockshoes.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Women?
Wine?
Wolitics?
Wages?
Wheels?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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funny thing though -he wanted to chat about something other than climbing,
Was he trying to talk you into investing in a Starbucks franchise at the top of the gondola? A Starbucks he would then be hired to build?
And welcome to Harry, whom I have not seen in decades.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Happy Canada-Day or what.
Satori-Nation!!
That is a Kona Satori?
Congrats Jim. More fun than you can imagine and pretty good for the cardio.
B.K. is next.
Maybe I'm not so crazy after all. Bruised and baterred, but not crazy.
That or it rains 8 feet a year around here.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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New Bikes! ya!!
Ok, so RyanD doesn't freak out on us...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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That boulder looks fun, haven't climbed on it yet. Will be a nice summer spot by the river. I heard that they cleaned it with a gas powered leaf blower aka the future apparently.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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You Squamish guys are a bunch of candy-ass wussies. Putting springs and shock absorbers on a bike and then calling what you do "mountain biking."
Meh.
This is what a real mountain bike looks like.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Well I gotta say those reflectors might help to flag down the chopper with the long line as you wait patiently at the trailside with one of those green horns embedded in your torso. One ride on a full suspension and you'll be sold.
Other than that she looks g.t.g.
Poor Ryan, probably getting ready to take his ice-axe to his laptop.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Cool video hotdog! Glad to see someone is still down for a climbing thread.
Speaking of biking I would have to guess by the outfits that they were on some sort of gran fondo or road race when they decided to stop for some climbing by the sea?
Relic & Hamish- Might have to resurrect my mountain biking thread so you guy can compliment each other on shock size in a more appropriate setting.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Great video Harry. The sailboat makes it such a westcoast moment.
That thing looks reachy and those two aren't short of span.
Hopefully Ed is watching over us with that big smile on his face, taking a break from the 24/7 buffet in the sky.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Another HarryHotdog video popped up in the viewer after the Klootchman one was done that was hilarious. Yosemite 88: Where is Fifi? It included some high tech special effects camera work capturing an epic Dean Hart whipper.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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I just did that climb for the first time a few weeks ago, one of the better 11a sport routes I've ever done. So fun!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2012 - 03:24pm PT
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Ahhh.. Those Skaha crimps. Gotta love them.
Welcome to Squamish Photos Stories and VIDEO, indeed Harry! It is a pleasure to have you along. I hope you don't mind, but I'm taking the courtesy of linking that "Where's The Fifi?" video that Relic mentioned.
For historical puporses of course ;)
[Click to View YouTube Video]
I see Dean Hart and Bruce Macdonald, is the other gentleman Randy? and the lady?
Hey Relic!! You gotta get your movie on youtube!
Edit: Watch part 2 also. Hilarious.
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MH2
climber
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Pretty sure Lindsay Eltis is seen.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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I see Dean Hart and Bruce Macdonald, is the other gentleman Randy? and the lady?
I'm the long haired mofo and others include Dean Hart,Bruce McDonald,Lindsay Eltis,Dave Dunaway,Nancy ? and Cindy?, (J Brennans old girlfriend,)John Buffery,Hamish F was down there with us too but alas no video,it's the first time I met him. Also down there with us was Andy ? who unfortunatly fell while down climbing and died. Does anybody remember his name ? He was English.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Big Guns. Andy Burnham, not too sure on the spelling. Great guy who could hold on forever. Tragic accident at the cookie cliff.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Dammit Jim, I'm a yank,
not a hoser.
That Tricycle thing was Ssssiiiicckkk.
Not one response from the northern crowd.
Sh#t you do when you win the fekkin' Lottery.
Now if you mounted a pair of ma deuces on it and mebbe a genade launcher.
Sheeee...
Edit- I know Piton Ron would concurrrr
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Hotdog sick movies dude. I especially liked where is fifi, quite cool to see what you guys were up too the year i was born. Was the footage only from the east buttress and snake dyke or was there clips from other lines too?
Aislinn and I met Mike Kyle Rick and the girls in skaha this past weekend, was pretty cool, me and ais had never been there before. The best part for me was the 5.3 caves thru cave hill super fun time route finding. Kyle brought the guide book, and Mike repeatly asked 'can you read me the route description' eventually I interjected 'the first ascensionists(or decensionist perhaps) didnt have a route discription' to which mike replied 'you are so f*#king annoying'
We eventually made it, but no one was keen for a victory lap.
On a side note, must one RSVP on the facebook event page to attend the lighthouse park social event?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Did u uhhhh, errrrrrrrr, sportclimb Luke? If so my deepest condolences, I am fully aware how that can wear on a guys conscience. It's ok, many others share this feeling, just don't let the guilt weigh you down. You can still hold your head high so long as you didn't mountain bike up to the sport cliff:-)
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Am I dreaming?
:)
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MH2
climber
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No, Squamish is dreaming of you.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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No, Squamish is dreaming of you.
And in a couple of days it will have me!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2012 - 03:22pm PT
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Sorry Luke. I guess i get a little overwhelmed when semi lost in a damp dark place.
I can see how that would be slightly annoying. What time is the lighthouse meet?
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skidrc
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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lighthouse social... for those not on facebooook??
Doug
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Was the footage only from the east buttress and snake dyke or was there clips from other lines too?
First Lindsay on a crack at Reed's pinnacle. Then it's Dean, Bruce and I. The cliff is Arch rock I think. Then East butress with Lindsay. Then Dean, Nancy?,Cindy? and myself on Snake dike.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Share Lighthouse Social with Nathan plz.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2012 - 02:54am PT
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How did it go? Sorry I couldn't make it. Thanks for the invite gf and Jim B! I worked late and then had to go look at a place. Moving sucks. Hope you had fun!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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How wuz seniors night, hope no one through their backs out.... Or got eatten by killer whales.
I've got a couple cool pic to share but not time to upload them. Soon. Maybe.
Ryan: thanks for your expressed concern, but I'm not even quite sure what sport climbing is or how one goes about it, that said, I'm pretty sure I didnt, atleast for my egos sake I hope I didnt, but if i did, accidently, does that mean I'm no long a recreationalist?
Bigmike no need to be sorry, as I was equally annoyed with you. :p
Uh, Question.... for Tami, what do you remember about Fatty Bolger? Did you come up with that name? Did Pete ground up in through thick moss I assume coated the bluff at one point?
And did it start straight up or by traversing in from the arête?
Facebook News flash
Marc Leclerc sent genius Loci yesterday after work. "hats off the the FA party on that one"
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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That's cool news about Marc on GL. Did he do the whole thing? Nathan and I walked by the start of it last week and noticed missing hangers. The first hanger was gone, but there was one on the second bolt... a long ways up. Yikes. Balls of steel elephant needed for that one.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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If by get things done you mean lacquer doors in a warehouse, I'm killing it
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MH2
climber
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If by get things done you mean lacquer doors in a warehouse
This is the sort of thing that rewards the time I spend on ST.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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So we didn't quite make it for the annual midsummer traverse, which now goes back 25+ years, not long after Big Dave and Little Dave discovered it. But we did get out there last night, and here are some photos.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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So what was the plan for orca attacks? Climb faster?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I had a bunch of rocks to throw, and in fact chucked one on an experimental basis, as a test shot. Though I suspect a 105 mm howitzer would be more in line with what would be needed.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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We're headed up tomorrow (actually I think it's today, now).
Please make sure that the popular moderate routes are fenced off so that we can enjoy the Squamish experience as it's meant to be enjoyed.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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C'mon Ghost, we want a spraydown of the days events. How was your Squamish visit?
Went out with Nate Dog OG, Luke & Ais for some haphazard food and service at the Brutal Pub this evening. Nate Dog OG, aka Rock Lobster aka Soloclimber had the nastiest of nasty sunburns going on, courtesy of Mt. HayBrick. Luke and Nate Dog were practically passed out at the table. At one point Nate had his face resting face down on top of his third pint while Luke fell asleep sitting up. Good times.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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I was doing that "other" traverse (the one at Lighthouse Park) around 15 years ago and had a Steller's sea lion surface right under my heels and snort at me.
Haven't done the Kl**n's traverse for a long time. Last time I was there some fisherman had taken a huge dump right at the south end.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Hamish, how come yours and peders boltless ascent of southeast buttress of
Habe-Rick stay under the radar for so long? Did you guys name it?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Got any more of that g.l. dirt for an old biker?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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totally epicing on the sb connection right now, decided to bivy on a nice ledge we found, hopefully we'll top out in the am!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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A bivy on the Little Smoke Bluffs connection... Hopefully they won't need to make a fire to have enough smoke to keep the moskreechers away.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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At-a-boy Luke. Good luck on finishing the connection tomorrow. Do it for Green Gables!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Got some GL deets for ya Hammish;
I thought he climbed it onsight, but apparently took 3 afternoons and 3 partners, and the first hanger was missing on the slab so he sinched it with a nut, also, I'm told a bolt elsewhere on the route fell off as he clipped it.
On the 3rd attempt Marc and Kruk link all the pitches continuously free.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Yabadabadooo.
Sure wish I'd been there to watch.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Same.
I that the 2nd ascent?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Well probably the second of the first couple pitches. I'm thinking that's the 1st continuous ascent as I only led every pitch, but not all at once. Not too sure what else might have taken place there in the last 20 years though. What with the guide book calling it a crummy route and all.... :)
You watch, next week those guys will start at the bottom of Los Zapatos and then finish up the underfling and Cosgrove's face pitch.
Speaking of big efforts, Federer is hammering right now. Definitely one of my heroes of all time.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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I know you folks at the helm hate it when I go off the incredably fascinating topic of rock climbing but there are other impressive athletes out there too.
Federer is AMAZING!!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Haha, a bolt fell off when he clipped it, classic on scary hard slab. In the new guidebook, he says the star rating applies only to the crack pitch. I don't think he meant the other pitches all suck. He just points out that people avoid the first 2 hard slab pitches, taking the easy route instead.
That would have been cool to watch for sure. I wonder if anyone shot video?
Los Zapatos is filthy dirty. There is a cleaned up 12b line to the right of L Z, that ends about 20 feet from the start of GL.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Guide book guy only likes the crack pitch? Each to his own I guess, but in the old days, those other pitches were pretty choice.
I wonder which bolt broke. And they still cranked it off; awesome! Maybe we over bolted it? Felt scary at the time. Salt water air and 3/8 hiltis, crazy stuff. Can't recall if we used stainless but I suppose it's looking like we cheaped out. To have one of those bolts shear off while clipping it.... pretty damn exciting.
Kinda makes me wonder about the belay bolts.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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So maybe someone needs to rappel the route, cleaning it a bit and replacing bolts where needed. Perhaps Hamish could bicycle-rappel, to ensure it's done correctly.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Sure sounds like you could pop those old bolts out with a well strung Wilson.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2012 - 11:56pm PT
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Sounds like fun! Climb the pillar then rap gl? Maybe we can coordinate another team to attempt it while im up there and i can get some sweet pics!
Oh ya. Since i dont own a hammerdrill and haven't ever put a bolt in the wall, obviously i'm not exactly the right person for this mission. But i am willing to lead the pillar for whatever that's worth.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Now that ya mention it Tami, I feel quite weird.
Maybe it because I've been out of maple syrup for over a week now, I'm just not myself with out a daily shot.
For those wondering how we got along on that gnarly V Grade route we attempted on the Smoke Bluff Wall we came really close, but ended up retreating.
Anders, are you implying you've done a bivy-less ascent of the route? SBCIAD
If so do you have any tips? I think the main problem was we just had too much sh#t. A triple rack to 4.5" should suffice, we brought quads and frankly I think it was overkill. That said we also could have made do with out the valley giants 5-11.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Kieran told me that Luke fell trying to make the first move on pitch three, and he was too soft to go for it again. He tried to hand it off, but Kieran was all like, nah dude, your lead, and Luke was just too shook up to go for it again.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jeeezzzus,
Bugs and biters in the bluffs. Please die.
Thnks,
Relic
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2012 - 03:43pm PT
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Solid indeed. Another week two of this weather should see ypls as dry as a bone. Might be time for that attempt shortly.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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BeeKay lemme know if you need a partner, i need to retrieve my hat up there!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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LSBCSIAD, even. The moskreechers encourage steady progress, and I'm told that swatting them with a #11 Valley Giant is considered unsporting.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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ais and i are to up among the firs for some shady post work craggin, come climb with us!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 10, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
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Ais and i had a great time at up among the firs, it was our first time there, we tried to find it once but got side tracked by afternoon delight.
First we climbed a little testies, which was rad, then the nose, in much less then a day might I add.
Then Ais was feeling honed and decided to put up her first 5.9 on gear, wicker cranium, which she climber on sight. Then she put up totally clips for us which was also top notch climbing.
By the time we led two new lines each there was no time for poster boy.. Guess we'll have to go back some day.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jul 10, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
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Yeah! Ais is our new rope gun. Sweet! Step aside Big Mike.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 10, 2012 - 10:05pm PT
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Solid indeed. Another week two of this weather should see ypls as dry as a bone. Might be time for that attempt shortly.
You should look to the style of your elders. When Serl and I climbed Tantalus Wall, we climbed YPLS by jugging a rope Peder had fixed on it. Don't know what he was doing that required a fixed rope, but we just jugged right by that ugly thing.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jul 10, 2012 - 10:20pm PT
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I remember aiding that corner in the old days, as in, swami-belt harness era. I was suffering from too much rope drag so pulled up lots of rope and placed the loops on a ledge I was pulling up onto. The little tree I was yarding on pulled out and away I sailed; 50 feet probably, onto the 2" webbing wrapped around the waist. Good argument for leg loops.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 11, 2012 - 12:02am PT
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This isn't actually at Squamish but WTF. I ran into Boo Boo on a ledge at Harrison Bluffs on Sunday . Nearly rapped down on him.
I think he was having a nap in the cave under that flake you can see in the pic. Friction Addiction 5.9 goes straight up the mossy slab from there.
After 10 minutes or so he left.
Anybody ever meet a bear on route at Squamish? I recall David Woodsworth or somebody had a story a decade or so ago about topping out on a route at Pink Kliff? and finding a juvenile cougar at the top of the crag next to the belay bolts
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 11, 2012 - 12:42am PT
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The hazards of rock climbing.After arriving unannounced and being shown the door we made a hasty retreat to respect it's territory![Click to View YouTube Video]
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 11, 2012 - 12:52am PT
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In autumn 1974, I saw a bear on the Apron at Squamish. It came up to the start of Diedre, then well across the lower of the two long traverse cracks - the start of Banana Peel. It was interested in Chris McNeill's dog Friend who was with us, and prompted said dog to do the first and probably only canine ascent of the first pitch and a half of Diedre, to the point where Sickle diverges to the right.
Who's climbing Wednesday afternoon, rehydrating afterward, then going to the mountain festival?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 11, 2012 - 01:57am PT
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speaking of dogs on the apron....
....that drunk al guy who is all was soloing in front of an audience at the little smoke bluffs claims his dog, Ginger I believe, has climbed bpeel, diedre and slab alley...
But a cougar at the bolts, thats full on!
I've been posting was too many silly comments and no pictures, so here's a pic for your viewing pleasures...
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jul 11, 2012 - 02:35am PT
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Who's climbing Wednesday afternoon, rehydrating afterward, then going to the mountain festival?
How about a mass ascent of the North North Gully (a stiff class 4.9) followed by a good cleaning of the Chlorophyll Variation on the North North Arete? Bring gardening tools, and perhaps a logging truck would be useful.
See you all at the festival, if not on the trails or slabs beforehand.
Where's the designated rehydration station?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jul 11, 2012 - 03:03am PT
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I'll be climbing Wednesday but probably on those lowly blobs of rock just in from Psyche Ledge. This is the first I've heard of the mountain festival this year. When is it? Where? What is happening? Are there pony rides? Will there be lots of needy cougars?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jul 11, 2012 - 03:33am PT
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A little bird told me, no wait that's a lie, it was an elderly gentleman of Scandinavian descent, that Tricouni will be showing a few slides at the Eagle Theatre @ 7.00pm today, Wednesday as part of the fest. Prolly be some of those monster glass slides they used years ago..........like Phyl Munday's. I wonder if they had colour back then?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 11, 2012 - 11:51am PT
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psyked for mountain fest, psyked for glens presentation, psyked for perrys presentation!
Anders would you by any chance have a friend of chief buton for me...
I hope all you posers, oops posters, are participating in
adopt a crag trail day on saturday.
Does any one know where the eagle eye theatre is?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 11, 2012 - 12:44pm PT
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Events tonight begin at 7:00 PM. Doors open 6:30.
Eagle Eye Theatre is in Howe Sound Senior Secondary School.
http://www.squamishmountainfestival.com/mountain-film-festival.asp
Buttons will be available for true believers, and Bruce Kay.
As the Brew Pub is one of the festival sponsors, and has been for years, perhaps those interested should meet there no later than 5:30, to rehydrate etc.
I don't believe that any dog got up Diedre, Banana Peel or Slab Alley without help, and a belay. Sure, a dog could pad up good parts of all of them, with direction - maybe following its owner, with rope and harness. But there are steep bits on all the routes which would be very problematic. On Diedre, the step over the overlap in the lower corner, and then the last few m. On Banana Peel, the steep bit on the third pitch. On Slab Alley, steep bits on each of the first four pitches.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jul 11, 2012 - 01:14pm PT
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Fellow by the name of John Reitsma climbed Slab Alley in Hush Puppies... A fair bit of tension and pulling required on the steep bits. About 1963.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jul 11, 2012 - 03:04pm PT
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Does an ascent in Hush Puppies count as a 'dog ascent', or is that in 'doggie style'? I've certainly 'dogged it' on lots of climbs, but without any kind of style.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 11, 2012 - 03:07pm PT
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It's all been hush hush until now.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 11, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
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Is it soloing if your dog is tied to you?
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 11, 2012 - 06:08pm PT
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In 1982 my dog Charlie who was a border collie/irish setter cross who was very low slung followed me up the West Lion.On the one part where I was about to assist him he didn't like that idea and hopped across. I did have him roped up but he did freeclimb it onsight.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 11, 2012 - 11:01pm PT
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I'm pretty sure Biscuit the Wonder Dog (RIP) could've climbed most of the easy Apron slab routes.
I saw a garter snake chimneying its way up the opening finger crack of Vertically Challenged at Pink Kliff once.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 12, 2012 - 11:35am PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2012 - 11:58am PT
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Sandra follows the runout on P4 of Pineapple Peel
Awesome climb. Thanks for the scrub Anders!
Had fun at the fest last night. Glenn put on an awesome slide show and showed a cool movie about UBC Buildering and the FA of University Wall. The movies were pretty cool too. I highly recommend Driven.
gotta go to work!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 12, 2012 - 01:56pm PT
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Oh ya first ngiht of mountain fest kicked ass!! Even tho PB didnt show up.. Big time hyped to see the behind the scene efforts of the riggong and logistic that went into deans base off mt bute, c yas there
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jul 12, 2012 - 08:15pm PT
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While hiking up to bellygood one day, little Eddie climbed up the rock at the knotted batman rope. Pretty impressive for a 20 lb. schipperke.
RIP buddy.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 12, 2012 - 08:24pm PT
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Glad you enjoyed Pineapple Peel - as I was tidying up Slab Alley anyway, it only took a few days of extra work. Nothing memorable, but another decent route worth doing, especially for the mandatory tree climb on the first pitch. (Take that, you tree-haters!) Maybe it'll spread people out a bit, too.
Did you do the 'new' 1/2 pitch that links into Slab Alley, or merge into Banana Peel?
ps You didn't have to tilt the photo quite so much, as it's nowhere near as steep as that.
And yes, Eddie was quite the scrambler.
(below) if you dont want to simul, dont skip the gear belay.
Or take a 70 m rope.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2012 - 12:03am PT
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Anders- yes we linked it to slab alley.
Mh2 actually caught me at the end of my rope just above the last bolt on second to last pitch of slab alley. I was giving the tugs to tell sandra to climb on. I tried to have a conversation with him, but he didn't seem to eager to talk considering my situation. ;)
so if you dont want to simul, dont skip the gear belay. ;)
i was looking at glen's voc picture of sa last night and noticed how small that tree was then. It would make the crack much harder!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jul 13, 2012 - 12:49am PT
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BM mentioned that the U Wall video was shown at the fest last night. Several years ago I came across an item on the web which indicated that the video was to be shown in some eastern Euro country, maybe Slovakia,Poland or ???? Anyway I hit the translate button, and this is what came back.......Not sure about the 'insurgency salad'. Perhaps that was Tim's lunch.
Glenn. Gotta luv the buildering sequences--great shots. The cement looks very hard.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jul 13, 2012 - 01:38am PT
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Just watched the movie Walking Tall. It's a bit older, 2004, and the first time I saw it was just after it came out.
In the first scene of the movie, Dwayne 'The Rock' Johnson is standing on a ferry in a bay, and I thought, "that looks a lot like Howe Sound."
Next shot is the ferry docking, and what's in the background but the Chief itself! There are multiple shots with the Chief as the backdrop, one or two with the Squaw and Smoke Bluffs, and a view of downtown Squamish starring the Chieftain Pub.
It was cool, cause I chose that movie completely at random, and had no idea that it had been filmed in a place I feel so connected to.
/ramble
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 13, 2012 - 01:49am PT
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As with most Jim B ideas, that is a good one ^^^^
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 13, 2012 - 02:13am PT
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YA Ryan, Nathan, Jim, Bruces(even the banned one), Tami, Hamishsand everyone else who didnt make it to the mtn fest last night really missed out.
Glennss entire presentaion was kick ass!
Tonights movies were amazing aswell, first was "Race for the Nose" Then "The Man who can Fly"
Amazing motion pictures.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jul 13, 2012 - 02:20am PT
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Hey Tricouni,
would it be possible for you to digitize your U-Wall movie and post it to Youtube
Hi Jim, Ivan Hughes has copyright to the movie itself. I own copyright to the buildering and Siwash rock footage. I probably should upload the buildering stuff, sometime.
But for the movie itself, that's Ivan's baby. Ask him.
Glenn
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 13, 2012 - 04:51am PT
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Hey Luke,
Sadly i work in whis @ 4 most nights so can't partake much in the evening festivities, can go climb though if i drag my hide out of bed early enough. Went to Ed Coopers slideshow last year & that was amazing, the festival is always fun. Anyone know what crag/trails is being adopted? The man who can fly has some of the most amazing footage ever!!
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jul 13, 2012 - 09:17am PT
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I didn't even know the Mountain Festival was on until like Tuesday or Wednesday. Maybe I just haven't been paying much attention, but it seems like it was advertised less than last year. By the time I knew it was happening, I had already made plans for Wednesday, and it's hard trying to hitch up after work for the festival, then back down in time to get enough rest for work the next day.
Would have loved to be there though.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 13, 2012 - 09:51am PT
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Jul 13, 2012 - 11:24am PT
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yowch.. someone forgot to bring their sunscreen :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
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Too bad tami. Would have been nice to see you. We should really do a squamish meet and greet soon! What would work for everyone?
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jul 13, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
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I just got a house in Sqaumish now, yay, no more Vanshity!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2012 - 05:14pm PT
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Nice fish! So is no one gonna tell the Habrich tale? Getting sandbagged by the kid can be rough eh nate? ;)
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jul 13, 2012 - 07:06pm PT
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Yeah, I got roasted last week. Only just able to go shirtless again now.
I wasn't sure if one of the other guys was gonna TR Habrich; I'll find out and if neither of them want to, I'll write one up.
I don't think he really sandbagged me, he did tell me it was a heinous approach. I just wasn't prepared at all..... spontaneous invite, I was already up there, so said why not?
Fish - When's the house warming?
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jul 13, 2012 - 08:47pm PT
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Heinous....really? ITs like 45 min of up hill the rest is biking along a road...
Vanshitty? So you have traded in hot women an nightlife for a small town of dudes? OKay....
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jul 13, 2012 - 09:15pm PT
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Well, I traded in the single life a few years ago, moved half way around the world for ya nice granite, but for some reason didn't make it all the way to squish. Having a baby on the way sealed the deal, Van ain't nothing to write home about, it's dead after it's dark anyway! Nightlife my arse.
You'll find out Nath, don't worry.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 13, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
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^^^^^
Don't forget to hoist the drawbridge behind you, eh?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2012 - 01:28pm PT
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Aww Anders, feeling left out? Fish just seems to be following the trend of not actually publishing a specific time and date on the internet.
I'm climbing with Sandra today on her only free day this week or I would love to rope gun the apron.
The habrich tale has been told on luke's blog. Google: luke's adventure blog.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jul 14, 2012 - 10:02pm PT
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A thought from the libation station.... Squishfest is always a good time for a toast of thanks to these two guys.Actually, any time would be a good time.
"THANKS GUYS!!!!!! BIG THANKS."
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jul 15, 2012 - 02:49am PT
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I was at the Glen Denny show tonight at the Squamish Film Festival. Amazing slides, stories. Hamie, I think you were in one of the photos. With Dunham?
The Will Stanhope show following Glen was great, too. Such a nice, funny guy, and he looks all of 17 years old.... and I like his attitude.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jul 15, 2012 - 02:51am PT
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Yeah, what approach did you take that was only 45 minutes????
It was strange how down near where the trailhead began, the flagging tape marking our trail was everywhere, then when the steep stuff began, there was a little less flagging but the trail was obvious, then when it got to like full on 4th class, the trail disappeared along with any indicator of which way to go.
Tami, I don't recall climbing down any trees, but I did do the whole sliding on my ass thing from tree to tree. It was safer than trying to walk down in flip flops, and my feet hurt from doing the entire approach barefoot, then climbing for the day.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jul 15, 2012 - 02:59am PT
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While you people were at the mountain festival shows at the high school, I was across the street at a "different" kind of party.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 15, 2012 - 08:20am PT
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Sh#t, bummed i missied the GD and young Stanhope presentations, was busy racking up with an exsupertopo poster who wishes to remain anonymous at this point.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 15, 2012 - 12:06pm PT
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Haha Relic, really immersing yourself in the mtn bike subculture.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 15, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
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posting from the wall again... In a rainstorm... Just for you tami, btw bruce says hi
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2012 - 01:19pm PT
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Darn it kid. You ruined my joke. I was going to ask if it was Dean Hart and if so, to tell him that if can come back now that Bruce has excomunicated himself from the taco. ;)
How's it going up there? Making any progress?
Hamie- Excellent idea. I had a pint or two of that fine beer after our Grand Wall lite ascent. Tricouni had some excellent slides of you guys the other night.
After watching the buildering segments I now understand how you free climbed ylps without any gear. Imagine if they gave you guys the equipment we have these days when you were at your peak?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 15, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
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FPMMIAD
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jul 15, 2012 - 07:36pm PT
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Hey luke, did you guys bivy at the overlap on Pixies Corner? Good luck making to the anchors tomorrow.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 15, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
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Some of the usual suspects at SMF 2012. Luke, Aislinn, Bob (brother of Tricouni), Tricouni.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 15, 2012 - 08:16pm PT
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Da-Brim!
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jul 15, 2012 - 08:30pm PT
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What ya climbing Luke?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2012 - 09:27pm PT
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I missed most of the fest, and climbed instead. I am glad to have attended the slideshows on the opening night.
Yesterday we slept in too late to go with our original plan of Snake, so the decision was made to go to Seal Cove for a bit before lunch. On the way to Squamish my buddy Kieran called me and said he was partnerless so we picked him up on the way.
We arrived at the pull-out, and after racking up headed down to the old highway bed. Kieran was amazed that everything had mossed over so quickly. When we got there we rapped Lost Horizon with a 70m.
There were quite a few parties there, alot more than I've ever seen. No one was on the 5.8 Bubble Buddy so I jumped on it to warm up.
Mike on Bubble Buddy 5.8
Kieran Brownie Photo
Had i chosen to go straight up a this point I would have finished as per Jeff Thompsons original intentions but instead i continued right up the crack through the vegetation. I hooked up Kieran's rope so he could solo tr Lost Horizons and brought Sandra up.
She had no trouble and neither did Kieran so when we were wating for Sandra to rap Kieran's line, I asked him if he would like to lead the pitch and he could leave the fixed line for me to jug and take photos. He said "Ya I don't see why not!?"
So I got my jug on. I found it quite easy jugging on slab, and I ditched the aider quickly.
Kieran on Lost Horizon 5.10b
Sandra on belay
The view here is just incredible!
Sandra seconding the route
After this one we went to murrin and had an excellent afternoon at up amongst the firs. I did A Little Testies and was shocked to find it was 10c in the new book?
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jul 15, 2012 - 09:30pm PT
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First Pitch of Merci Me in a Day Luke?????
I can see by the look on Aislinns face that she is not a big fan of yer Brim :P
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 15, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
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...and we got the pics to prove it..
Anders knows duh-brims way cool.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 15, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
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From last night.
Glenn Denny, Tricouni, David (son of Tricouni), John H.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 16, 2012 - 12:13am PT
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Hey Mike, I noticed your friend who's climbing on the slab uses the same product I use.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 16, 2012 - 01:18am PT
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lol harryhotdog that is awesome
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2012 - 11:13am PT
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Anders- Nice pics, Thanks.
gf- Sadly I have not had an opportunity to venture out to the Quartz Pillar but it's on the list!
Quartz Pillar
Shot borrowed from Jesse Mason's Flickr account
Check out what else the kids are doing there these days!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Harry- Ya my girlfriend noticed Kieran's 8 pack also. Looks like he's been using that thing lots! ;)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 16, 2012 - 12:20pm PT
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speaking of waffle irons, Aislinn and i got so much bootie at this years mnt fest, including tshirts, friend of the cheif pins, stickers, an MEC 'cragalot' pack ANNNND a backcountry waffle iron!
Oh and just so everyones on the same page; BMACD has been officially banned from super topo, so now we can talk sh#t about him and hes not here to defend himself!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 16, 2012 - 03:34pm PT
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Since when has someone's presence or absence here made any difference to related sh#t talking? Total free for all, isn't it?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2012 - 04:22pm PT
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Well it is the internet after all. I have always been surprised at how civil this thread typically remains compared to the rest of the taco. I would like to thank the thread cops for that.. I'm sure there are a few :)
For the record Bruce isn't banned by the powers that be at ST. His account is still active.
http://www.supertopo.com/inc/view_profile.php?dcid=PzI9Pzg8Nic
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 16, 2012 - 04:53pm PT
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Cmon anders we know got some dirt, kick him while hes down
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 16, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
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OK, so Bruce went to climb Ten Years After with the Apprentice. At least, that's what he said they were going to do. And then...
This could get quite creative.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jul 16, 2012 - 07:01pm PT
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Another bail Luke?
Nice.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2012 - 07:38pm PT
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Not to change the topic from certain people's parade being rained on, but this just popped up in another thread and since it was discussed here somewhat, here it is.
Will Stanhope solos Zombie Roof 13a
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jul 16, 2012 - 09:06pm PT
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WOW !
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jul 17, 2012 - 10:08pm PT
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We're on P4, time for a bump.
In the Zombie Roof/Woof thread, gf says that Hamish F got it on his second try. Pretty impressive. I thought that the last 10 or so feet looked like fun.
Apparently Alex Honnold has now started serious training, hoping to repeat this fine effort.
AH working on his secret training routine, at his secret training location.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 17, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
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I recall a trip to Yosemite where Tami and accomplice brought, and insisted on repeatedly playing, a Village People tape. Or was it Zarren Wevon? Or Donna Summer? The horror! The horror!
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Jul 19, 2012 - 11:28pm PT
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Or, as Perry and Mr. Zappa would put it, Woof!
Wow! There was some wicked tunes back then to climb to, eh?
i wonder if young Wil listened to the Zappa version to get the stoke on...
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 21, 2012 - 10:46am PT
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Whodat Monkey?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jul 22, 2012 - 11:42pm PT
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Anders, thanks for posting the video. This event took place last week at Squishfest 2012. Anyone catch it?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2012 - 01:24am PT
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Luke- that's a Kyle monkey!
Anders- Thanks for that! Impressive.
Got out yesterday afternoon after the rain. Sandra and I went to the Little Smoke Bluffs. Last week she and our friend Heather went to Krack rock and were detered by someone in the process of cleaning Fairy Ring, The far left 5.6, as well as all the greenery in the cracks.
So yesterday I decided to show her that just because a climb may sport a little greenery doesn't make it a bad route. We stopped first at the Runestone Wall, and got on a 5.8 called Grani. FA Unknown. Runestone is on the new loop spur which goes by Crag X and Easter Island. It was pretty fun.. No pics but we cleaned alot of the needles and dirt out with the nut tool.
Next we went to Krack Rock
We decided to warm up on Popsickle 5.7?
Wow. This Dave Jones route gets going right off the ground. Very cool especially if you avoid using the other cracks around it. Go straight up at the top!
After we did Koko Crack 5.10a which can be clearly seen on the right in this shot of Py on Turkey Dinner 5.7.
Koko is the right half of the V which goes straight up to meet Popsickle at their shared anchor. We found it very fun and easier than Popsickle! ;)
Who is Dave Jones? Anyone have any insights? Not this guy..
That's the other Dave Jones ;)
Is this the same Dave who did a large amount of FA's at Skaha including Claim-it-all?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2012 - 01:33am PT
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Tami- That's your crag rat right? nice one. I been bugging Dave to make Squamish Climbing T's with that on them...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2012 - 01:45am PT
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Kieran getting Runout..
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 23, 2012 - 01:48am PT
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David P. Jones has been climbing since the late 1960s, and now lives in Golden, B.C. He has been climbing steadily for 40+ years, in the Selkirks, Mount Logan and area, Squamish, Skaha, the Himalaya, and elsewhere. He is now allegedly retired. You can and should read about Davey at http://explore-mag.com/4029/adventure/the-numbers-man-david-jones (from Hamie)
Dave Jones is proprietor of Squamish Climbing, and IIRC works for the CBC. I don't know how long he's been climbing - post on www.squamishclimbing.com and find out.
I know two other people named Dave Jones.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2012 - 01:57am PT
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Thanks Anders. Dave Jones seems to be popular..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2012 - 02:11am PT
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Cool article. Thanks for the link! 452 FA's! He's been busy...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2012 - 03:35pm PT
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Bad weather in Squamish? Never...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 23, 2012 - 03:51pm PT
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I know DJ but am atta loss to explain him :-) Haven't seen him in a zillion years tho'. Anybody else??
Some things are beyond explanation.
I climbed with DJ a lot, and knew him fairly well, but, like Tami, haven't seen him in a long time. He was a powerful climber who participated in several expeditions to big Himalayan peaks (Makalu and Manaslu, I think, via hard routes), almost got the first hammerless ascent of the Nose of El Cap (rained off after completing the hammerless crux), but could also enjoy himself grubbing moss, roots, and dirt out of silly little crags in the Smoke Bluffs. He was also a very decent human being.
His main playground, in the years that I knew him, and I think since, was the Selkirks and Monashees, and I guess he's been living out there for quite a while now.
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Out_of_bounds
climber
BC
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Jul 23, 2012 - 04:19pm PT
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Hey folks, first time posting to the thread, but I have been a long time lurker. Thanks to the collective of people who keep the stories, photos, trip reports and the entertaining jibber jabber rolling in. It does inspire me to take more photos and write a little about my adventures.
It's great to hear David P.Jones name come up. He and his partner Joie Seagram are unbelievable, definitely hero's of mine. His resume of climbs just in the Selkirks is amazing. It also seems like he put up lots of FA'S in Squamish, Ridge Runner is one of my faves in the Smoke Bluffs.
It is not Squamish related but I'm wondering if "GF" could tell us a little about the first ascent of, "Yes Please Spire" Northwest - West Face. the description in the guidebook makes the approach to the bottom of the spire sound long and technical, never mind the actual climb itself. Maybe a good story if you choose to share GF? And thanks to everyone again for the best climbing thread around.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jul 24, 2012 - 02:15am PT
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Unfortunately the planned mid-summer release of Davey's current project, a guide to Rogers Pass, has been delayed. Apparently one or more of the photos did not meet the high standards of his discerning publisher, and will have to be re-done. Put it on your Xmas wishlist.
David Jones is the most common name in Great Britain, and is shared by approximately 14,500 people, presumably all males.
The real Davey has reportedly been seen swinging ice hammers again, but has so far resisted the temptation to boulder, or participate in dyno contests. Among his many other accomplishments Davey is also one of the genial co-hosts of the infamous 'Jones and Seagram Flying Circus'.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 24, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
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And all this time I thought the Squamish climbing character was a kk klan member, but now I see the whiskers and know its a rat.. Hmm
P.s. hi outofboumds'! Post some loggin pics and stories.
And definitely want some Gf stories
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 25, 2012 - 09:11pm PT
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I haven't seen Dave Jones in a long time either and even at post middle age was a powerhouse for cleaning new routes in Skaha, just look at Claim it all wall. Here is a shot of someone who is no longer with us that was also full of much joie de vivre. The late Guy Edwards on a 3 hour ropeless ascent of the north face of Viennese peak in 1994. We were back in Vancouver at 2:30 pm and he headed up to Squamish for more climbing that day, what an animal.
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kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
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Jul 25, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
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Hey Harry,
Awesome pic of the late great "fast eddie" aka "eddie sender"
Bump for some Guy Edwards stories...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
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Wow! Ask and ye shall receive! Another lurker too! Welcome!
I would love to hear some Guy Edwards tales.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 26, 2012 - 01:50am PT
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I consider this my baby Tami as this is where I spend alot of lunch hours but I guess it's really yours, the sign you made for it is long gone unfortunately. Does Ed still make these? The style is very unique and I'm pretty sure the rock in Storybook Gardens in London,Ontario is one you guys made.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Jul 26, 2012 - 02:08am PT
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Riley Park ?
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 26, 2012 - 02:13am PT
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Riley Park ? Yes Rolf
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jul 26, 2012 - 10:57am PT
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Up here in the north we call it gription.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 26, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
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On my first trip in to the Chehalis we spent all day getting to the base of Grainger and set up camp. Then these two kids showed up at our camp. It was Guy and Kaj and they had left the trailhead maybe 15 minutes before us, cruised a route on Grainger and come back to camp in the time it took us to do the approach.
They were wearing matching pants that Guy had hand-sewed from his mothers curtains.
The next day they tried the unclimbed west face of Nursery, bailed and headed out while out group climbed the south, west and northeast ridges. We were stumbling out late that night and I found this thermarest lying in the forest. Booty, right? All I had at the time was an ensolite so I was pretty stoked.
Day after that I was sitting in GEOL 200 and Guy sits down next to me. Seems he was in the same class. I made the mistake of mentioning my awesome thermarest booty score. Turns out it was Kaj's. Oh well.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2012 - 01:32pm PT
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Awesome story Dru! Thanks!
Silver- so when are you coming up here? ;) bring a vg9 when you do and we'll go free hamie's beloved pinnacle from that evil bolt.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 26, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
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Guy had a knack for saying the awesomest things, whatever he was thinking.
Typical conversation: I run into Guy outside the Student Union Building.
Me: "Hey Guy, how's it going?"
Guy: (incredibly loud voice) "I'm super horny. I'VE UPPED MY MASTURBATION FREQUENCY TO TWICE A DAY!"
UBC girls immediately vacate the plaza in large numbers.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 26, 2012 - 02:22pm PT
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Guy Edwards, Cam C and I went to check out a route called "Machete" which is a super obscure 10d offwidth on a crag near Brandywine Falls that you have to walk down the train tracks to get to.
The crag is across a pond from the tracks, and there is a trail around the pond.
We got to the base, checked out the route and decided to climb it, but this meant hiking back to the tracks to get our climbing gear. Guy decided to race me, I was running around the pond on the trail and Guy was swimming across the lake.
I beat Fast Eddie! No joke. He ended up carrying all our gear back around the lake buck-naked. Then he cruised Machete. I flailed so bad on that thing trying to second on TR, I don't even think I topped out.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 26, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
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Hey thanks for sharing guys, funny stories. Sounds like Guy Edwards was quite the character, & a machine to boot. Is this route machete on basalt oplanax? Is there other climbs there?
Big Mike, Are u really planning a chopping mission?!? Let me know so I can go climb it first!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2012 - 04:24pm PT
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Ryand- if i can get up it without using the bolt, its as easy as hammering it in.
Let's go! I would love to hear your first hand opinion, and i definitely can use the offwidth practice. I would leave it if i thought it was encouraging more ascents but the truth is no one even knows what ypls is much less where it is. If you are an offwidth fan then you probably own the gear you would need to send it anyways.
Great stories guys! We finally found a topic that got dru excited!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 26, 2012 - 06:21pm PT
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Not basalt. Quartz diorite, Cloudburst Pluton, same rock as Chek. \
There were a couple other projects at the cliff last time I was there, more than 10 yrs ago.
Park at Brandywine parking lot and walk south along RR tracks as if heading to old Brew Lake summer trail. Crag is on your left about 10 minutes along on the other side of the pond.
I still miss Guy and John quite a bit. Guy in particular was a very good friend 1992-2003. I remember one time after I moved to Chillidog he came over for a visit and we were talking about another climber who had the annoyoing habit of calling you on the phone and then unlaunching long and rambling narratives without much point. Guy said something like "I put down the phone and went and did some pullups. Then I went and made a sandwich and ate it. I came back to the phone 15 minutes later and picked it up and he was still talking! What a monologue!"
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 26, 2012 - 06:30pm PT
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Video of Guy on Mt Alpha in 2000 coming shortly to a theater right here.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 26, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
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On my first trip to Skaha in 1990 with my New Zealand friend John McCallum we were heading up to have a go on this new climb, Wings of desire.John ran into a young student he knew from UBC at the base.I was climbing Wings as he arrived and after when I came down I was looking for my high tech energy food that I brought with me,a bag of chocolate chip cookies.When I reached in the bag they were all gone!This young punk had ate ALL my cookies.Well I was pissed and he came up and very sheepishly said he was sorry he was so hungry he couldn't help himself and promised to replace them.He was 17 at the time and that's how I first met Guy Edwards.After this I videoed Guy following Test of the ironman and we all went back to the campsite where he proceeded to keep us in hysterics with his many stories.
While on a visit to Red rocks with some friends in 1996 we all headed into town for a cheap buffet.As we were heading down the strip I noticed this person climbing on the front facade of one of the casinos with the valet, security guards and a crowd of people watching him. I remember saying check this nutcase out only to go WAIT A MINUTE THAT'S GUY EDWARDS. I did not know he was even in Red rocks but there he was oblivious to all the attention and traversing this rock wall out of reach of security.
I climbed with him and his hand sewn clothes alot over the years and we had some great adventures on the rock and some great entertainment off the rock. RIP Guy Edwards!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2012 - 01:40am PT
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Bump for Harry, how's the edit coming???
Kieran reaches for the crimp on Lost Horizon
Thanks to everyone for your contributions here, this thing taken a life of it's own!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jul 27, 2012 - 02:14am PT
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BM and Ryand. No "special off-width gear" needed on the pinnacle. Our biggest piece was a 3/4 inch standard angle. Have fun.
I only met Guy once, in the Nelson climbing gym. He was very impressive, and already a legend.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jul 27, 2012 - 02:16am PT
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True Mike, it has.
If you need a vg9, let me know, I'll help you out, got a tube too.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2012 - 02:38am PT
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Hamie- We didn't have the intensive buildering crash course you guys had! Chimney offwidth rockstars only needed pins ;) I know.. YPLS is an old school route right? The leader should not fall and all that? Well, that move getting into they chimney is hard and none of us made it clean so if that bolt were not there Luke would have pulled a bunch of crappy flakes out of the void before Factor 2'ing on the belay. So I would love a vg9 to stick up in there to avoid that unpleasant eventuality.
Fishboy- Sounds good! Shoot me a text with your schedule next week!
Tricouni- Can you post that James Dean lookin photo of Hamie?
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MH2
climber
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Jul 27, 2012 - 08:48am PT
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Guy's memory lives. I remember him when I see a lost shoe on the shoulder of the road or when I open up the lost-and-found box at the rec centre and think, "Guy would have loved this."
Even knowing his frugality, one of the mysteries about Guy, for me, is how he managed to save so much money in the year or so he worked after school in the interior (as a hydrologist?) I've always pictured him living in someone's basement so crappy that they paid him to stay there. He phoned me for no obvious reason one night and told me that 'the wheel of life was turning slow.' I think that was his last conventional job, perhaps the first, too.
Not hard to sum up Guy: he kayaked from Vancouver up to Bute Inlet, hiked in to climb Waddington, and returned the way he came. That's the legend I heard.
He and several others skied from Vancouver to Alaska or thereabouts, a trip remarkable for many reasons.
He borrowed his sister's car and took us down to Washington Pass. He scared me by knocking a stack of loose rock down a gully ahead and out of my sight, and by climbing over a fence at a lookout and walking right to the edge of the cliff beyond. His responses to my timidity: "What? Do you not like loose rock?", and, "If this is my day to die, then it is."
There are good Guy Edwards stories on cascadeclimbers.com, I think.
I like the way he corrected some of my misconceptions. You could rely on Guy. He knew how to make things happen to make the most of time.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 27, 2012 - 09:31am PT
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Haha more very cool stories.
Hamie, thanks for the gear beta- thats good to know. Just so happens I generally only climb with 3/4 angles, only diff is unlike u guys I don't cheat and drag a hammer around. Just spit on em' & smash em in with my helmut instead:-) that said if i find myself up there i will gladly stuff one in bks bolt hanger if it happens to get in the way.
Ps I don't own an angle, hammer, or helmut but would be fun to get up there & scrape the ankles so yea Big Mike maybe we should head up there & check it out, I can go Monday but am pretty busy the rest of the week. Shoot me an email. Gotta be dry in that beast by now.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 27, 2012 - 12:36pm PT
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Mike Buda went on this spring ski trip with Guy and Ann-Marie to Sphinx Hut back in the day. Some funny stories came out of that trip. I mean Mike was a dirtbag but he was pretty shocked by some of the stuff that went on. Guy had been dating A.M. for a few months at this point and there was a cross-pollination of sketchy techniques for living fast and cheap going on.
One of them (can't remember which) was making a communal dinner and was cutting carrots up without a knife or cutting board by taking bites of the carrot and then spitting the bit-up carrots into the pot.
Mike was rolling his eyes and gagging, and was told "It's OK, we're going to boil it so it'll be sterile."
Mike has a photo from that same ski trip of the pair of them bent over and mooning him. I'm pretty sure that made it into a VOC journal. Mike's comment was "You have to carefully look for the testicles to see which is which."
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 27, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
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Should this seem as posthumous slagging, I should say that mostly I don't have any awesome stories of climbing with Guy because he was such a better climber than I that he would get bored if we tried to climb together.
One time Guy, Chad and I went to the Bluffs in January to do some cragging. Chad and I started out the day at Easter Island. I was going to lead it to warm up. In the time I had put my rack and shoes on, Guy soloed up Easter Island, down Out to Lunge, and wandered off out of view. We saw him one or two more times that day then met him back at the car. I think Chad and I climbed about seven pitches on that short winter day. In the car back Guy said he didn't know how many he had climbed, but I am pretty sure it was over forty.
I also remember Guy chiding me one day at Smith Rocks. I was pretty hung over after a party and I'd climbed about two routes the whole day. Guy told me you had to climb at least 5 pitches each day on a road trip to make it worthwhile. I sacked it up the next day and got in eight or nine pitches, making a two-day total of ten, or five per day. When I told Guy this he said "Oh. I think five's too little now. I've upped it to twelve per day!"
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jul 27, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
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So what's a vg9? Serious question. Sounds like a veggie burger at a fast food place.
EDIT: Prolly means "Only 9 calories".
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 27, 2012 - 03:11pm PT
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#9 Valley Giant cam.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jul 27, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
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Meh, just sack up son and get your chimney on. Screw the hardware trickery.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jul 27, 2012 - 05:35pm PT
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Hamie, the poster above did the FA Silver, Chuck Pratt style.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
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you leadin Relic? Get that chickenwing rockin again ;)
Original send style was runout as all f*#k.
Its quite a ways to get to the chockstone from the belay, and a few good moves too. Pulling up into the thing isn't a joke either but at least you can sling the chockstone. Of course Hamie didn't do that either so does that mean it's off limits?
so basically factor 2 potential until you get the chockstone slung. I'll happily forgoe the vg9 if someone else wants to lead it, but I doubt that bolt will get skipped without one..
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 27, 2012 - 11:56pm PT
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The gear off the belay is good, don't know what your talkin about mike...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2012 - 12:17am PT
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Luke- you had confidence in those hollow flakes?
Silver- you are right of course. Problem is, bruce kay put alot of effort into cleaning it, and stuff that doesn't get climbed around here returns to its heavily vegatative state very quickly.
Must every climb be attempted only the way the fa did it? Can thier efforts not be appreciated by lesser mortals? A large cam does no damage to the rock and is a solution to the evil bolt. I will not chop without a clean ascent of the route.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2012 - 12:30am PT
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These guys were awesome silver! They were soloing chimneys everywhere all over the local university and drain pipes. Anything they could climb, no wonder hamie walked the thing in his mountain boots like it was no big deal!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2012 - 01:32am PT
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Bruce- Ryand wants to go too heck maybe we can get a fourth. How is your monday? Im supposed to be working but would ditch for this.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jul 28, 2012 - 02:13am PT
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I was tempted to volunteer as a 4th, but then after looking back on Luke's blog I sorta remember hating my life on earth while inside that crack.
http://thekidcormier.blogspot.ca/p/founding-of-squamish-totally-uber.html
The most memorable part was the guttural screams bellowing from Big Mike. I think they evacuated all the neighboring schools when those f bombs came flying out.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jul 28, 2012 - 02:29am PT
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Monday? I'm in if I get to lead it :)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 28, 2012 - 02:35am PT
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At any rate, If there's a case for a bolted offwidth, Polaris is it I'd say.
Polaris is probably out of my reach now, so can't comment on that, but nobody's whined about the bolts we put in on the OW section on Borderline.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 28, 2012 - 04:08am PT
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I'm good for Monday, could be fun! I want to lead it too!! Not too early, going to see Iron Maiden Sunday night, u OG's ever hear of those guys? :-) I agree with Bruce, this thing never got climbed by anyone but Anders & was likely a jungle/tree climb before he put in the time & knuckle skin & buffed that whole area, making it much more desirable- Or at least as desirable as gaping chimney OW can be. When I did the tantalus crack last year it looked like there was a few other climbable cracks on the face near the left side as well, not sure if they've been done but I think overall the whole pinnacle looks much better than it did a few yrs back.
Edit- ghost those bolts on borderline OW seem pretty well placed & don't seem to dumb the route down at all, or change the character, what a wierd pitch that one is though. Im sure many have a hard time reading that one. My first time up there i got soooooo bouted on it after cruising the finger crack. Great job on that line BTW one of my favs.
2nd edit- I was bouldering the day u boys went up there & remember big mikes big screams coming from up on the wall! Maybe he should lead it:-)
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jul 28, 2012 - 10:09am PT
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I'll probably be bouldering on Monday, but I'll pack a harness just in case of....
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 28, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
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After I posted the above comment about people not whining about the bolted OWs on Borderline and Polaris, I realized it could be interpreted as "people shouldn't whine about bolts on off-widths".
Which is not what I meant. Certainly not with respect to the bolt on the Pinnacle. If the FA crew has a strong opinion, then my view is to respect that opinion. I suppose there are times when you could say the FA was done badly, or deliberately in an unsafe manner, or whatever, in which case a community consensus might be for a change. But that's relatively rare.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 28, 2012 - 08:25pm PT
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You guys have fun on YPLS, eh? Maybe you should just leave a VG#9 fixed at the crux, thereby satisfying everyone. It would be moveable, and so leaders could wiggle it upwards as they climbed, and then when they're all done, they could re-place it at the bottom of the squeeze, ready for the next climber/sucker. Better than a bolt at the bottom, less controversy, and those not up to the climb can always use the cam for a bit of portable aid, to get by the crux. Can't do that with a bolt.
I volunteer Bruce to donate a VG#9 for this noble purpose, maybe with a nice little plaque to honour him.
Or you could just man up and do it in mountain boots with a 3/4" angle. Though to be honest, the natural thing is to lassoo the chockstone as soon as you can - Hamish must have been climbing very well to not have bothered.
There's decent protection between the belay and the start of the thrashing, probably better now that Bruce has excavated the crack. So it shouldn't be a factor 2 fall, even though the excellent belay cedar is sadly no more.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jul 28, 2012 - 09:23pm PT
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Perhaps you can delight us nubs with a lesson in the fine art of lassoing. Luke tried several hammer tosses, each one missed the mark, resulting in a hammer nearly smoking his helmetless noggin.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 28, 2012 - 10:34pm PT
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You need to warm up for this by climbing Navy Seals and Kneewrecker.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 29, 2012 - 01:25am PT
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A hammer toss was once the classic way to finish the top pitch on Tantalus wall.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jul 29, 2012 - 02:21am PT
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What sort of gear did you guys use on earlier free ascents of tantalus crack? The offwidth I mean. Did you just run it out like crazy?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
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Wow Dru. Excellent suggestion. I will have to follow up on that one. Navy Seals sounds cool.
I'm down for YLPS on Monday, I will send out PM's today to arrange it.
Did a run up Stairway to Heaven yesterday with my buddy Ben. Here are some senics from along the way...
Top of the Dyke Link
Tantulus rim walk
Black Dyke belay
If you count the distance horizontally as well as vertically this has to be one of the longest routes on the Chief. Super fun!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jul 29, 2012 - 02:23pm PT
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WTF is navy seals?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2012 - 03:54pm PT
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Navy Seals is a 10a chimney on the south end of Seal Cove.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 30, 2012 - 01:41am PT
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You guys should arrange your ascent publicly so the spectators in the valley know who's leading what and thus who they are rooting for and who is yelling profanities!
Mike I get a kick out of how you address super topians by their super topo name when speaking aboutthem but by their first name when adressing them on super topo. Classic.
I look forward to pitch by pitch updates.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2012 - 02:53am PT
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This pseudonym thing can get a little confusing sometimes so i just like to have a little fun with it.. ;) if it bothers you let me know, i'll make sure to address you appropriatly. :)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 30, 2012 - 03:27am PT
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Doesn't bother me, I think it's awesome, espicially with tami because it sounds like you were there.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jul 30, 2012 - 10:48am PT
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I like how luke only writes on stupor topo and doesnt answer his phone text messages! What a lurker.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 30, 2012 - 11:54am PT
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Phone fell in a 5er of clear coat...
That and the fact I've worked 75hrs in the past six days with no prospects of climbing rocks in the immediate future may be starting to get to me... I appaulogize for my snippy comments.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 30, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
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Check the tide tables before you do Navy Seals. It starts below the high tide line. On the first attempt I got inside and thrashed for an hour and the tide was coming in... Cam got wet feet by the time I gave up.
I came back with Luc Mailloux and he styled it. It was all about putting the knee on the same wall as the palm and the heel on the same wall as the back, by the way. For me. Big Mike I think may have to come up with a different arrangement.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
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Stick it out kid! The payoff will come around again...
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jul 30, 2012 - 06:28pm PT
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3 dudes on YPLS right now. Just starting to squeeeeeeeze att crux. Sh#t he blew it. Twice!!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jul 31, 2012 - 12:32pm PT
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Hamie- We didn't have the intensive buildering crash course you guys had!
Here's one of Dick Culbert on a roof at UBC. Good fun!
Tricouni- Can you post that James Dean lookin photo of Hamie?
Ok, Here's Hamie with his James Dean look, 1966.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 31, 2012 - 01:48pm PT
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Look at the honeycombing on the sleeves of that jacket. That'd cost you $200 nowadays :D
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2012 - 09:19pm PT
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I dunno, when I first saw it, "Rebel without a cause" sprung immediately to mind.... Thanks for that Tricouni!
Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side had a somewhat predictable outcome yesterday... We got our asses kicked, and gained a real appreciation of the talents of our elders.
Here's a photo that might bring back few memories for anyone that's ever been in the mouth of this beast.
This photo is taken from Hamie's third belay? Hamie or Tricouni, do you guys remember if you went inside of the first chockstone? or outside? Inside would be an insane squeeze!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 31, 2012 - 10:04pm PT
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What I would like to know is how & if those boys Free climbed from the cedar to the top of the first chockstone BITD or if it was a hammer toss affair??! Layback? Left shoulder in? Right shoulder? Size 17 feet? Them was some tough OW/squeeze moves!
Maybe cigarettes are the key.........
Edit- & I bet u guys didn't have sissy filters on your fags either.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 31, 2012 - 10:34pm PT
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Hamish free climbed it, duh.
Ryan care to tell us why you it to lead two pitches in a row... And how did the first pitch go?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 31, 2012 - 10:36pm PT
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I'm at work right now so will get into the details later but it definitely didn't go as planned which would have been a gracious onsight while spitting on BKs bolt as I cruised past it laughing. At least the laughing part happened. Cool route.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 31, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
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Really hoping your boss doesn't check supertopoians, cuz if so you're ginna be in sh#t...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 31, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
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You guys are doing it all wrong. The best way to climb YP is to wait until someone has a rope hanging from above, and just jug right past it.
Of course, to be real you have to use the right jugs...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2012 - 12:15am PT
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Funny ghost. Thing is we were actually trying to figure out how these gents managed to free this sucker in thier mountain boots!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Here is Tricouni's account of the first ascent of the left side of Yosemite Pinnacle, in 1965. From The B.C.M.C. newsletter. I did the climb in 2003, and wrote up an article contrasting and commenting on our climb with that in 1965, but it'd more than double the length of this.
The fine cedars on the route have sadly now fallen to orc work. Where are those darn Ents when you need them, anyway?
YOSEMITE PINNACLE – LEFT SIDE
Unlike most cities, Vancouver is fortunate in having within easy reach a huge chunk of steep, firm rock - the Chief. Inevitably, rock climbing is growing at an accelerating pace, and will become increasingly more important in the life of the BCMC and its members.
Rock climbing at Squamish is different from most other climbing areas. Lack of holds and cracks limit the possible route lines and chimneys are common; face-climbing is rare. Surprisingly enough, only about twenty of the sixty or so routes in the area are predominantly artificial aid. The rest range from easy class 4 to downright desperate upper fifth class. Climbing on the Chief looks dangerous, but is every bit as safe as ordinary mountaineering. Objective hazards such as rock fall and weather are greatly reduced; subjective dangers such as overconfidence can be lessened through proper technique and an appreciation of one's limits. Falls are not unknown, but only one accident has led to hospitalization, and that happened on a boulder, twenty feet off the ground.
A recent "Summit" article to the contrary, most climbing around Squamish is done by local climbers. Indeed, Vancouver climbers have established almost all of the many fine medium-length routes, many of which have free climbing of a high order. One of the more difficult and spectacular of these is the Yosemite Pinnacle (left side) Route, first climbed in October by Mavis McCuaig, Hamish Mutch and myself. This is not a pinnacle in the usual sense of the word, but rather a huge, detached flake lying against the wall. There are a number of these on the Chief; this one is located just left of the popular South Gully.
We hadn't really expected the climb to be very difficult. However...a short rope toss led to the base of the left side of the flake. Hamish, just back from the endless miles of Yosemite cracks, led sixty feet of strenuous chimney and jam crack (class 5.7) to reach a good belay tree. I joined him, sweating, then led the only class six pitch on the climb; fifty feet of straightforward nailing. Mavis joined Hamish, who moved up to my rather dubious belay. The next pitch looked really bad. After ascertaining that it would go, we rappelled out (it was getting late), leaving our ropes behind.
Next day found us prussiking up the ropes to our respective stations. The next lead was classical: a ten inch wide jam-crack shimney affair, overhanging more than enough. Hamish somehow moaned and groaned and struggled his way up the first twenty feet of the squeeze-chimney (class 5.8) and then, gasping like a fish out of water, pulled himself onto the first chockstone. After forty feet, slightly easier (but not much), we heard his welcome "off belay". With a liberal expenditure of energy I managed to claw my way to Hamish's belay. He was standing on a chockstone deep in the chimney, anchored to a little tree that must have had a hard life, for it can never have seen the sun.
My lead went horizontally out to the edge of the chimney, then up over an awkward (5.7) chockstone onto the first decent ledge on the climb. The others soon joined me, glad to be out of the confines of the vertiginous chimney. It was in the bag now; we romped up the fifth and last lead, a 5.4 jam crack, to the top of the pinnacle.
There was enough comfortable room on top for all three of us - a bit of a surprise. We rested awhile, counting the inevitable tourists who stopped for a look, and waving to friends on the road. Then the descent; we untangled the ropes and made several long rappels down the chimney to the forests below. We coiled the ropes, sorted hardware, and walked slowly to the car, well pleased with our first ascent.
Hamish had spent much of the preceding year climbing, and quite a lot of time in Yosemite, climbing with Bridwell. Clearly a formative experience. I suspect, though, that they had larger pitons than 3/4" - they nailed the crack leading to the start of the offwidth/squeeze, which is now a lovely hand crack. More in the 1.5" range, maybe even 2". Hopefully Hamie and Tricouni can clarify this, and the footwear they used.
When we did it, I went left side in, and stayed outside all the blocks. (Can't imagine any adult thin enough to go inside.) Right side in didn't work at all, not that I have a lot of the needed technique, so left side it was, notwithstanding a wonky shoulder.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Ryan, when I followed it on TR, I went left side in like as soon as I could possibly wedge my shoulder in. Past BK's bolt, there are features on the arete you can milk with your outside foot as you squeeze up. A little higher you can get fully inside and then you start worrying about how to surmount the chockstone. I found that to be much harder than I thought it would be.
It's all about getting as much of your body inside the crack, ASAP.
I think I had to turn around or something to mount the chockstone, maybe thats where I hung on the rope to reset my body
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2012 - 12:10pm PT
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Is that what the FA did? Hmm.. No time this morining but i got a couple pics done last night.. Here are a few teasers..
Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side
Kieran leads P1
Ryand does some gardening...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Hey Anders when u guys did it last was there a lot of shrubbery near the cedar on the ramp up right & into the squeeze? I would love to see what you wrote after your last ascent. Please post up, who cares if it is a long account. See below for an example of a long winded account of a relatively short climb. Seems that Big Mike may be able to supplement with photos & since I've been outed I may as well tell the story as I recall.
Warning: extensive beta spray down. If u aren't into it then just keep on scrollin'
On the last pitch: i think the first time i got spat out trying to chimney up above the bolt left side in, i had a hard time getting inside & when I did I had a pretty good chicken wing/arm bar but couldn't get a footjam or a heel toe or kneejam. The only foot was a really high right that popped & i got flicked outta there, it seemed really tough. After that I tried a bunch of different ways to see if there was a trick & the easiest for me to get near the chockstone was to layback a few moves & get a high right backstep on a good foot & twist into a high left kneebar, puuuuull left out of the layback & into the chimney, cup the arête with the right & reach way up with the left, I was tickling the bottom of the chockstone & could kinda get this horrible undercling & almost reach the lip but couldn't take any weight off with the arms to move the kneebar up. Damn, it was super strenuous too. I was so close but so far. Finally, not wanting to fall on the manky, fixed rope tied around the chockstone again I grabbed it to reach up to the top of it. A tall f'er could use that kneebar beta & probably reach it.
Which you are right BTW Relic, the chockstone has a really awkward mantel. The hardest part of the mantel was dealing with all the stupid gear I brought, Including a big purple eggplant , & a bright blue poop tube. Luckily i had the foresight to leave the big green watermelon @ the belay. All of these were making things really inconvenient & all of which would prove to be totally useless for this particular challenge. Once on top it wasnt too bad to the top but actually pretty good chimney back & foot climbing with some cool features. Nothing compared to the difficulty of that first 10 feet which I'm sure is 5.8 if you know how to make it look that way which I definitely don't. Yet.
As for the first pitch Luke, it was pretty good & not what you would expect. There is the one flare @ the start, I put my left shoulder into the wall & right foot up behind on a good hold on the arête & u can lean out & grab some decent holds that get better until u get to a massive jug! So Big Mike had me all psyched for that part & he said how he whipped on the piton which was kind of comforting. "Big Mike approved!" He was yelling at me when I clipped it. Haha. So when I get to the jug I thought it would be over but it's a 20m steep, burly corner with a bunch of flarey, dirty, kinda rattly finger locks with shitty, flakey feet about 8m above the jug. I took a decent whipper here on a gray c4 made in china & a few hangs around that crux section. After that you finally get a gold camalot jam or 2 then its 10m of steep climbing on decent finger/hand jams with good gear that felt somewhat strenuous to place. Another crux at the top reaching up to some good holds before moving left to the belay. A pretty good pitch as well actually that would be a proud onsight for a 5.10+ leader. After the 3 of us put some chalk on it I think its probably much better & more people should go do it, even just that first pitch on its own would be a worthy outing. The second pitch was fun too & except for that first 15 feet is much easier than most of the climbing on the first pitch. Which I felt to be pretty sustained.
I had a real fun day climbing with Big Mike & Kieran as well as joining Relic for some bouldering after. Not sure why I led both Luke but I guess I kind of volunteered somehow? Either way it was a good challenge. Kudos to Hamie & tricouni for their efforts BITD as well as a big thanks to Bruce Kay for cleaning it because I never would have climbed that thing or really given it much thought & many of us would likely know not much about it including its history & signifigance.if it looked like it did 2 years ago. It is likely a very different climb now than it was back then. Bruce did an awesome job on that whole face & put some serious work in. With a little more traffic it could be a classic burlfest that is somewhat unique to Squamish. I'd get back on it, I know Luke has to go back up there to get his toque at some point since none of us remembered to grab it, sorry dude! As for the bolt, I don't really have an opinion on it. It is at a perfect stance that is in an otherwise difficult to protect area, I had a good cam right off the belay & a red c3 about 6 feet under the bolt, falling on it would have sucked for sure as u would have bounced off a ledge. Alternatively I guess u could just clip a fixed knot on the manky chockstone leash above which I ended up doing anyways but it seemed pretty old & gross. I think you guys should all head up there & give it a go before deciding if it should be there or not, YPLS is a worthy challenge for any Squamish climber IMO.
Let's hear your story Anders!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2012 - 10:01pm PT
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Ryand has been outed! ;) Sorry dude, you knew it was gonna happen :) Props on your leads the other day. You said you wanted to lead it :) Perhaps you only meant the squeeze pitch ;) Sorry about the unnecessary beta on the #5 but we didn't have a #4 camalot last time.
Setting up for the p2 lower crux.
Crazy stem beta on the upper burl corner
It didn't pay off for long though....
Kids, if you want to survive don't follow Ryans beta. This is meat and potatoes climbing and foot jams are the only thing that only thing that kept me on there!
More photos soon.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Yahrrrr!!! More photos of actual squeeze battle are requested. The only time I did the route about 12 years ago I was so baffled about how to get into the thing that I eventually threw a big cam up over the chockstone and hauled myself up. (In the spirit of hammer tosses of yore) The scars have faded enough that I want a rematch!
K
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Maybe the solution is to sink the offending bolt, not bother with a semi-fixed VG#9, and simply have a reliable fixed thingie hanging from the chockstone. It could have a series of loops, with grades attached. For example, if you clip the bottom loop, right as you start the squeeze, the tag would say "lightweight". If you clip only the top loop, i.e. could have just slung the rock yourself, then the tag would be "rock star - as good as climbers in 1965". Maybe even with a solar-powered GoPro, to keep everyone honest.
When we did it, we belayed from a solid down-hanging cedar, about 3 m below the start of the squeeze - at the top of the nice 5.10- hand jam/stemming corner. I think the orc murdered the tree and placed a bolt belay there, but it seems unnecessary. It makes more sense to belay at the stance at the base of the corner, about 10 m down, and do it in a pitch from there. So the first pitch would be a bit shorter, and the second a bit longer.
The first 'real' pitch seemed to us low 5.10, right through to the top of the nice corner.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2012 - 07:00pm PT
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Thanks for the bump MH, What about remove the bolt, but leave the hole so you can place a removable bolt if you choose? :) the fixed sling is actually kind of a nuisance, it's there so you use it.
ok got a few more done last night, I know you guys want to see the wide, but I got a couple more good ones of p2 which I agree with Ryan is worth going up there for. You could always rap after on BK's nice new anchors.. just bring a tagline to make it to the milk road traverse anchors.
Ryan got his foot jams sorted out eventually :)
Reeaching for the anchor.
Getting started on the wide p3
Kieran Brownie Photo
Nice lens flare Kieran!
Brownie Photo
More later... Climbing now...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Invalid without photos of the evil Bruce's bolt, nawmean? Hey, if I can get up it without the bolt, so can anyone.
Mike's first photo shows well why the belay should be 12 m lower, where there's a stance.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
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A job well done bruce. P2 is equal to the first milk run corner in my opinion. It's dry allright. Go hit er up! I would like to lead p2 again now, so gimme a call if you want a partner.
Anders, there is two pictures of the bolt! :) sorry the last set is taking me so long but i went and simuled the chief last night instead. Hopefully i'll have some time tonight.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Also posted on Squamish Climbing.
Let's see...... Last weekend I climbed New Life with a friend, all onsight, swinging leads. Great climb for those who are able, again a couple tricky moves for people who are shorter. Lots of overhanging burliness, particularly the .10c third pitch, which I didn't realize how much past vertical it was until I was halfway up it with nothing but air below. One person I've talked to thinks that it's substantially sandbagged.
My only real gripe with the route was that the fifth and final pitch was a little dirty. I'm not sure if that's from a lack of traffic, or because the developers were starting to get lazy, but either way, nice job on the line.
This past Friday I went up a little earlier by myself. I had plans for the Grand the next day, so didn't want to do anything that was physically too hard. I figured I'd give Snake a go, as I had climbed it about a month previous and found it enjoyable. I did the first couple pitches easily. There was a party at the base of the main corner, who I hadn't been able to see from the ground, so I waited for them to both reach the next set of anchors. The crux made me think a little on this pitch, but still not much of an issue.
That party let me pass them at the belay, and I continued on up towards the crux traverse. This is where it starts to get thin, for those of you who haven't climbed it, and even roped up, gear is minimal. This was also where, for the first time, I've ever felt truly insecure on a solo. Every move was just pure concentration on making my feet stick, and the only moment of relief I had was grabbing the downward flake just before the traverse.
After that slabby scary bit, the traverse didn't feel quite as difficult, although still insecure. From the ledge there, I was able to finish the rest off easily.
I continued up Memorial and down Boomstick, then I ran up Diedre. I hadn't climbed Skywalker before, so I went and did that as well (which was quite enjoyable) before heading home.
POSSIBLE SPOILERS FOR GRAND WALL - READ WITH RISK OF BETA
The next day was my big trip up the Grand. I had found a friend who was willing to let me lead every pitch, so I could go for my redpoint. My first time up it last year, the only pitch I led was the Pillar, and I spent so much time worrying about having enough gear that I tired myself out and didn't get it clean. I got the rest of the pitches clean on second except for the top of the Sword and Perry's.
My second time up it is in Lurch's TR, and it was too early in the season for me to be strong enough. I didn't lead the Sword clean, aided Perry's the entire way, and aided the majority of the Sail Flake.
This round, it was go time. I had a lot of unfinished business, and it was time to clean house. I wanted to go right from the ground, so I led up Apron Strings easily. No pump by the end of the first pitch. I linked both pitches of Merci Me, and then led the traverse over to the Pillar for my first time. I think it's easier on lead than second.
Now sh*t gets real. I went for the Pillar straight away, starting with a green, laybacking up to where I could get a rest and put a red in, then straight up. I ran it out about twenty feet, threw a cam in that was completely useless, but gave me confidence, then ran it out another fifteen feet before putting a good gold in. Where it got wider, I places both my blues, went into the desperation layback, grabbed the jug. Victory!
Scampered up the rest, brought up my second. Bitches been pissing in behind the Pillar btw.....
After a short break, I started up the Sword. I had really only been hoping on getting these two pitches clean, so this was goal 2/2. My problem last time I led this was a fixed nut right at the crux. I couldn't clip it without grabbing the draw after, so I figured I would just put two pieces in a little lower and go for it. It worked, and I was able to make the mantle no problem.
The next crux for me before had been stepping out onto the face, but this time I just clipped the bolt and sent it without even thinking. Ran it out up the face crack before putting a couple pieces back in the corner, taking a moment, and going for it. Grabbed the chain at the top, clipped it, success!
Now I was happy no matter what happened, but still determined. Up the bolt ladder, brought up my second. Using my beta, he was able to get the Sword's crux clean for the first time.
Perry's: I was worried about this one, cause I hadn't even been able to second it clean before. I also had failed to bring enough draws for the entire pitch. No matter, I started up, skipping the first bolt on the traverse over to the start of the layback. Clipped the next bolt, started laybacking, clipped the second, skipped one, clipped and skipped again. Now here is the crux, where it slopes in and you really have to get in and reach to find a positive hold. I was pumped out of my mind.
I clipped the bolt and went for it. The feet had gotten a little better, and somehow my body positioning allowed me to sneak my knee into the crack. Using this kneebar, I was able to reposition my hands just enough to let me stand up into the chimney rest.
Who does that!?!? Who gets a kneebar on Perry's Layback!?!? I was so stoked, I was just screaming, WHAT THE f**k JUST HAPPENED?!?!?
Hit the anchors, brought up my second, we highfived, sang, danced. It was a joyous moment for me, and I wasn't even done yet. However, there was nothing that could stop me now. I raced through the Flats, took a moment, then went for the Sail Flake. I hadn't realized that the feet were as good as they are, so I was able to protect it adequately without getting pumped, then hauled to the top.
Woohoo! First time leading every pitch, first time getting everything clean, and perfectly too! No feet slipping, nothing going wrong. It was the perfect day. We even beat the sun!
I don't think I have a reason to ever climb again.....
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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^^^^^
That ... is the kind of sh#t that makes it all worthwhile :)
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MH2
climber
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Yay Nathan!
10c is an admirable sandbag grade for the 11b pitch of New Life.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2012 - 12:06pm PT
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Thanks for that Nate! It was good to see you on Sunday!
I was begining to think that I had put this thread on pause last week and forgot about it ;)
I've been busy climbing too of course... It was a gorgeous weekend and it was hot but Sandra and I still managed to get some routes in.
We did Snake on Saturday and she got it done, with a little trepidation at the dyke traverse at which point I reminded her that a: she was on toprope and b: Nate soloed this yesterday!. The traverse was actually quite uneventful after she figured out the moves and we raced up the last pitch to get out of the blaring sun.
Sunday we got a semi early start and sent the buttface with no real road blocks and it no was problem for Sandra until the last real crux where she wasn't fond of the rope running over a sharp edge.
Yesterday I got out with my buddy Ben again and he took mercy on me and decided that we could skip Borderline today, and go do Hanging Gardens at the papoose instead. Which was fine with me because I had a lot of climbing days last week. I do want to get up there though which is why i hopefully said yes the night before...
Hanging Gardens went well, there was some chalk on the route, and I managed to figure out both slab cruxes although after a fall on each.
After lunch we went to the bluffs for a bit and got rained off Tunnel Rock as i was cleaning the anchors. not too bad tho... Nothing like our last Skaha trip which I still haven't posted... Ben got stuck in the huge parking lot on the way back to Vancouver, caused by the basecoast hippy exit..
anyways.. more ypls pics soon I gotta go to work now!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Yesterday I got out with my buddy Ben again and he took mercy on me and decided that we could skip Borderline today, and go do Hanging Gardens at the papoose instead.
I'm so insulted...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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TheSoloClimber may be somewhere in this photo, from early afternoon on Saturday.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
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Don't be insulted Dave, it was meant as a compliment really.. We both decided that being it was day 4/5 for me that I probably would die halfway up the route, so we thought it better to send it when i'm fresh and could enjoy it more..
Nice picture Anders. Thanks.
Allright. I been promising more pics. Here they are. All wide photo credits go to Kieran Brownie at Brownie Photo.
WARNING WARNING POTENTIAL HORRIBLE BETA SPOILERS BELOW! ;)
Ryan gets a close look at the pro at the start of the Wide
Trying to get rid of that Big Bro
He ended up not finding a good enough placement for it and took it with him for fear of it disloging and hitting the next piece.
Deciding if he should use the evil pro
Yup.
How did those guys get in this thing??
Kneebar
Desperate attempt to avoid the wide
Whip!
When in doubt layback?
Getting the knee in again..
Wow... that feels like overload. I got more too.. later..
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The feature in question from afar, again on Saturday. No climbers on it. The prominent face crack is the right side of Yosemite Pinnacle, or Tantalus Crack as some call it. First climbed by Fred, Leif, etc in 1966 using wooden wedges, then freed by Al Givler in the late 1960s. The left side, done in 1965, is the left facing corner.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2012 - 01:56pm PT
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I saw someone on Tantalus crack on Sunday Anders!
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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I wish I could say I was in that picture, however we hit Bellygood around 2 that afternoon. I'd love to get up there with two or three parties and just get some wicked pictures on the Sword and Pillar. You interested Mike? I know you are ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
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Heck ya Nate. i could get some pretty sick ones from the right... maybe on a free grand anchor somewhere?
Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side epic continued...
Eventually the fixed mank just gets too tempting.
And a little aid gets employed..
Slipping into the void..
Employing the chockstone rest..
Chimney time!
Topping out
After we joined the peanut gallery for some bouldering antics..
Relic on something hard.
Ryan's arm is so fast it's a blur! :)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Hey haven't been on here for a bit- cool photos Big Mike, except that flailer in the photos has some whack beta & a fat ass(not relic the other poser) :-) thanks for posting up & thanks for the fun day! Let me know when u want to go finish crackhead. Solo climber, cool little write up, sounds like a good weekend. I'll have to check out that kneebar next time on Perry's!
Bruce Kay I would have expected nothing less for a response from you re:YPLS well spoken haha. Let me know if u want to go up there to climb what you've cleaned, unless of course you are content with just doing all the work, in which case I would say "keep it up!"
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Big Mike I just did a fast scroll down this page and discovered that what we have here is a flip-it book of ypls butt shots... you should make an animated GIF out of these
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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The Send Train...
Ok Relic, your turn. It's time for the send train.
Ok ya sure!
Relic sends the crap out of the problem.
He goes to stand up on top of the boulder, and in victory exclaims, "send train!"
WHOOSH, foot slips out on wet moss.
Falls off the top of the boulder, scraping and flailing.
Catches him self on a couple of holds with his hands, while feet are dangling madly.
Don't worry I got this! Starts clawing back up the boulder. Uhh, no I don't. Falls off.
The End
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Relic I hope that story is about lounge act. Haha that would be exciting, sounds like u got lucky!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oh I think I know where u have been training Bruce, & I'm pretty sure u are likely proficient in long, wide, corner chimney cracks that have been tainted by the kiss of a Bosch :-) that said I'm sure a few months on Eurasian eyes would probably help your chances of sending, or more likely it would make u realize that thrashing up any of the dozen wide cracks in town is a silly idea with all the thousands of more graceful pitches around here.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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you're right Bruce, that thing is no joke! After the battle on that pitch i had a million reasons why it would be smart to head down to the gully & come back to finish the rest of the route another day.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Silver, there actually is a route there. It's called brain damage, first pitch goes @ 5.12 & I'm not sure if the second pitch has been done or not but it is bolted & looks amazing!
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The Call Of K2 Lou
climber
Squamish
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Aug 10, 2012 - 12:26am PT
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A little on the short side, but one of my faves anyway:
Still one of my favourite spots to chill out after a long day.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Aug 10, 2012 - 02:07am PT
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We're neck and neck with the Birds thread, 3466 posts to 3435.
At the top of the previous page Bruce Kay posted :
"I had no idea that sh#t pile would turn into such a success."
Initially I felt insulted, as I thought that he was referring to the climb [YPLS] as a sh#t pile, and was perhaps slagging the route in order to draw attention away from his unethical retro-bolting. On reflection I now realize that he could not be referring to the climb, as it is a clean, obvious, direct and very aesthetic feature. Consequently he must have been referring to his 'sh#t pile' bolt, which now enables people to complete the climb at a lower standard than before, by clipping his POS bolt. Not everyone would deem that to be a success.
To show that YPLS is a clean,direct and aesthetic feature, I am attaching three photos from the FA, which did not involve any POS bolts, or aiding on fixed slings.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Aug 10, 2012 - 02:11am PT
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Monsieur le Docteur Dru
"Belle vacance!"
Ha Ha
A full TR will be required.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 10, 2012 - 02:20am PT
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... Looks nice and clean to me. Bang on, Hamie!
Is it barely possible that some climbers are getting so specialized, so addicted to clean, sterile (in the sense of little growing) granite that they can't find any joy in anything else? Lots of good rock has some vegetation; lots of good rock isn't granite.
For me, the attraction of Squamish has always been about the the adventure and the fun, regardless of the degree of difficulty.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Aug 10, 2012 - 02:45am PT
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Big Mike
I enjoyed your YPLS photos, and had to laugh out loud at the one captioned "Whip", that was funny as heck. Lucky he had clipped BK's POS bolt! With your complete photo sequence it is easy to see why you guys are having so much trouble. I hesitate to say it, but you are trying the pitch in TOTALLY THE WRONG WAY. Since all three of us, including Mave, did the pitch without any aid, hangs, falls or tension, it cannot be as hard as you are making it. I would still give it a solid 5.8 While I may be persuaded to give you the full beta at some later date, for now I will just say that you have to know and use squeeze chimney technique, which is nothing like normal chimneying.
Having said all that, I do have one qualifier. Without meaning to be rude, it may not be physically possible for someone with your build to climb this pitch in the 'correct' [easiest] manner. However your partners should have no such problems.
Now it's "true confessions" time. We did have a secret weapon. That was Mave, who was my gf at the time, and one of the strongest female climbers in the country. She was expecting to bag a new route, and so the pressure was on. On me. No new route equalled no ---. Taking your gf along raises your game by at least two letters.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 10, 2012 - 02:54am PT
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We have now been thoroughly schooled by Hamie and Tricouni. We are not worthy.
When Eric and I tried YPLS in 1974, there wasn't a lot of vegetation, except for a tree at the base of the "aid" pitch, where we stopped. I wonder if the big 1946 earthquake on Vancouver Island shook things up, and maybe widened or even created cracks? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1946_Vancouver_Island_earthquake
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Aug 10, 2012 - 02:57am PT
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Tony Ellis, shown in Glenn's pic above, had a great phrase to describe short routes, which we call sport routes today.
"The nowhere to nowhere department"
I wonder how he would have described bouldering?
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MH2
climber
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Aug 10, 2012 - 10:12am PT
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the FA, which did not involve any POS bolts, or aiding on fixed slings
Probably no cams, big bros, chrome-moly, perlon, sticky rubber, or lycra, either. Some photos! Thanks for them and for the stories.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 10, 2012 - 11:35am PT
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From working in the forest industry I can tell you how much vegetation grows in 50 years.
I mean there are roads you could drive up in the 80s that are nothing but jungle today.
Yet we still get surprised when the same thing happens on cliffs.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 10, 2012 - 11:50am PT
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Hey Hamie, thanks for the history lesson & cool photos, it looks pretty clean for sure but it also looks a little different. So u guys just crawled right inside from the very start of the chimney about 6 feet under the bolt eh? I thought about that for a split second but didn't want to tear my Lycra or get it dirty on the heap of munge that sits in the base of the chimney. As well this would have put me way out of range to clip the bolt and do some bouldering.
After some serious thought about this over the past 2 minutes I have come to the conclusion that all the bolt squabbles on this route are totally pointless. Since the bolt is positioned away from the original route & impossible to clip if u climbed it the way of the FA, i think it effectively makes what today's climbers would call a "variation". I propose the name YPBS or "Yosemite pinnacle Bruce side" for this variation & would also like to propose a grade of 5.8b as it seems a touch harder than the original 5.8 way.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 10, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
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My only experience with YPLS was jumaring past it 30+ years ago en route to the upper half of Tantalus Wall, and I don't remember whether it was bushy or bare, but the fact that it was bare in the 1960s doesn't mean it wasn't bushy in 2010.
There is a pair of pictures in one of KM's Squamish guidebooks showing the same view of the Chief about 40 years apart, and the later image shows vastly more trees and bush.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 10, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
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I'm not going to lie, I enjoy "Brazilian" granite. A landing strip here & there is ok, but seeking out a full grown carpet is definitely passé IMO.
+1 on cutting edge K2 Lou, although its not as fun since the hold broke :-(
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 10, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
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I wouldn't, except from natural causes.
(An axe hardly counts as 'natural' causes. Nice try.)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2012 - 03:29am PT
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Here's a little reminder of the good old days Ryan!
The Cutting Edge V4
As to the arets question this one happens to be a favorite,
Triage Aret 5.10a
Nina Hagen Photo
Me getting it done. This thing is no joke. It used to have even less bolts on it apparently. Thanks to KM for making it spicy instead of x.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2012 - 04:32am PT
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With your complete photo sequence it is easy to see why you guys are having so much trouble. I hesitate to say it, but you are trying the pitch in TOTALLY THE WRONG WAY.
Hamie! I was hoping you would weigh in on this issue. I was beginning to think that was the case!
Having said all that, I do have one qualifier. Without meaning to be rude, it may not be physically possible for someone with your build to climb this pitch in the 'correct' [easiest] manner. However your partners should have no such problems.
I think I realized that last time when I made an honest effort to squeeze my not so petite frame into that void from the bottom and had little to no luck getting in there. Did you guys go right of the chockstone?? Funny about your secret weapon... Motivation is always important ;)
After some serious thought about this over the past 2 minutes I have come to the conclusion that all the bolt squabbles on this route are totally pointless. Since the bolt is positioned away from the original route & impossible to clip if u climbed it the way of the FA, i think it effectively makes what today's climbers would call a "variation". I propose the name YPBS or "Yosemite pinnacle Bruce side" for this variation & would also like to propose a grade of 5.8b as it seems a touch harder than the original 5.8 way.
Truth is, Ryan is completly right. It is a variation. You said it yourself sir, we are doing it TOTALLY THE WRONG WAY , and there is no hope in hell you could clip that bolt to protect the original YPLS route. So the point is moot, and we are doing rediculous things to avoid said squeeze that we do not understand. Bruce might as well complete his handy work and bolt the rest of the aret so we can just lieback that sucker and complete his variation. Call it, BKLB Bruce Kay's Lieback ;)
Is it so wrong to see pictures of your beloved pinnacle all cleaned up and being enjoyed albeit differently than you guys did?
I found this before shot that Jeremy Frimer took, on Squamish climbing.
Jermey Frimer Photo
Looking a bit scruffy there... Isn't this better?
As to the question of clean rock, a bit on greenery or moss will not spoil things for me but some things are getting a bit excessive...
Me on the FA of Sandra's Dirty Rope
I think it's much more appealing this way
Rick on the first really clean ascent.
More dirty this way for sure
Kieran Brownie Photo
Kieran Brownie Photo
More fun this way
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 11, 2012 - 11:26am PT
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I think that's a little far fetched Bruce, it would be much safer & a softer landing if the zip lines landed down @ nexen. Then a shuttle bus could bring ppl back to their cars.
Enough of this nonsense though, i'm going to go try & do blackwater before someone spills their water bottle @ the base & it gets all seepy for another 3 weeks. Anyone got any early stories on that thing?? Pretty sure it wasn't a gear climb first a la no name rd or the pheasant. Was it??
Nice photo's Mike, that before shot is interesting.
Jim B stops by with an excellent troll. Well done sir.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2012 - 12:24pm PT
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Bruce, of course I knew you were kidding, as was I. This place is good for laughs and I'll take mine where I can get them :)
I don't think Squamish climbing, liberal and progressive as it is, is quite ready for such a marriage of lycra clad sport and old school wide crack brawling on the pretext of variation / squeeze job.
I dunno sounds kinda like Dean and Randy's mo from bitd. ;) Obviously there are lots of other liebacks out there, but just thinking here what's the difference? If you are in the chimney you can't clip any bolts so does it really change the character of the route?
Jim B? I saw that lure a mile away ;) He's dropped it a few times now :)
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Aug 12, 2012 - 12:42am PT
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A little something for everyone tonight.
Glenn: A fun pic of Tony imitating a black bear. Thanks.
MH: No wish to 'school' anyone, esp you! Would that even be possible? ha ha
Ryan: Yes. Good thinking. But be careful. You never know what you might catch in there--or what might catch you!
BK: If that is an apology, then I accept it as such. When someone makes derogatory remarks that reflect on my friends or myself it usually elicits a quick response. ["Fook you. Strong message to follow!"]
Yes, I did say that imo the bolt should stay, and I have not changed my opinion. It is definitely resulting in more ascents, which is great. And of course you deserve a lot of credit for cleaning the route last year. Thank you for that. However the sling which is used for aid has to go. People should sling the chockstone on lead, and clean it when following. Aid is lame!
Ghost: The climb is definitely more bushy than it used to be. I wonder if the drainage above has changed, causing problems. If the climb is wetter, then it would be more vegetated than before. Once again, thanks to BK for his good work on the cleaning.
BM: You posted "There is no hope in hell you could clip that bolt to protect the original line." Looking at your photos I think it would actually be quite straightforward to clip it from the chimney, it's only a couple of feet away,oops half a meter or so away----but then you have seen it up close, and I haven't. It looks close enough to me..... [esp with your reach,ha ha.]
Photographer of SuperTopo. Very cool. Keep'em coming. Love the whippers!
In conclusion, keep the bolt, but yank the mank. Will the saga continue?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 12, 2012 - 01:58am PT
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Since the bolt is positioned away from the original route & impossible to clip if u climbed it the way of the FA, i think it effectively makes what today's climbers would call a "variation". I propose the name YPBS or "Yosemite pinnacle Bruce side" for this variation & would also like to propose a grade of 5.8b as it seems a touch harder than the original 5.8 way.
Huh? You can totally squeeze chimney it here even after clipping the Bruce bolt. You just stick your left shoulder and other body parts that fit in until you get totally get immersed inside. You are proposing the wackness. :P
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 12, 2012 - 11:10am PT
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Ha! Relic, I guess anything is possible when ur on top rope! Or when you're yelling from the boulders:-) Maybe I'll see u in there this afternoon!
What did u guys blow up on blackcomb Bruce??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
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Well i guess you could clip that bolt, depending on which way you were facing and how long you arms are.
Relic your point is moot because hamie et all entered the squeeze chimney at the bottom..
Point is, you can do anything really, but you can never claim to do it the fa way unless you grind your meat through the squeeze and dont clip the bolt.
No one can ever take that away from you guys and the rest of us can simply marvel at the boldness of that feat. The chance to do it at close range just makes it hit home that much harder!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 13, 2012 - 02:41pm PT
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Heh, you said "squeeze job" and it's a chimney. That's funny.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2012 - 03:10pm PT
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Only 1500 more posts to go till rolf's prediction of 5000 comes to fruition. ;)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 14, 2012 - 02:39am PT
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^^^
Nice Bruce! Thats gold right there i tell ya! Where are those articles from?
"stretchers bouncing down slab alley "
Edit- duh, I see where it's from
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Aug 14, 2012 - 11:03am PT
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A mate and I were itching to do an aid route, something to do with not being very fit and wanting to go chill on the wall for a while. Our busy work schedules matched up last week, and off we went to Cowboys and Indians.
Chris thought he'd be rusty having not having aided for a long time, his two El Cap ascents didn't involve much...I normally go solo, and was looking forward to sharing the work.
The route was great, and was more involved than I thought it was going to be. It seems that putting a route up solo as Perry did on this can lead to some extraordinary long pitches with plenty of rope drag for people not soloing. The roof pitch was sick in terms of length, exposure and bloody rope drag!
It went mostly clean, probably a dozen placements were hammered, and down low there was lot's of heads. Many were skippable or placed within 30cms of each other which was disappointing. Heads are ugly. These were bomber, and made the crux pitch go very fast.
We finished the route at 2am on our second day after getting the bag stuck and having to rap back down after topping out. We drank about a liter of water each on the 2nd day, and had nothing left...only ate a cliff bar each too. We were drilled by the time we were done, and after a spliff we were out.
Totally cool route worth doing not just for the line but also for the variety of climbing. Be prepped for super reachy rivets, and take only a small iron rack. We had 3 blades, 3 arrows and 2 angels, plus a handful of beaks and it was perfect. It needed more cams than the new aid guide says, and we had fun being inventive with our anorexic rack!...and backcleaning a lot. Oh, cam hooks are mandatory!
-peace-
The start of the 2nd pitch
The fun begins
Chris on the scary A1+ hollow traverse. It was very generous of him to back clean too much....
The cool flake at the start of the 4th pitch. Not as straight forward as I was thinking, I fell past the belay when some gear ripped.
Punching out the roof.
A photo my mrs took from the river. She watched for hours...
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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Aug 14, 2012 - 12:01pm PT
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Nice one guys! C & I is great isn't it? Those bolt and rivet ladders are a pain for shortarses though, definitely the crux for me. Did ye by any chance get down the ropes some idiot (....ahem) left on the rap route?
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Aug 14, 2012 - 12:34pm PT
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Hey Paul, no, we didn't get your ropes. We did the route without a topo so had no idea how to get off. We just kept walking around the fault way past Angels Crest and rapped on someone else's ropes! The rope you had going to the ground is gone, but the top two are still there. I'm going up there again to get some of my gear and on the way down I'll grab your ropes.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Aug 14, 2012 - 02:17pm PT
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Free ropes on the badge! That's sound sweet, mine we looking a bit ratty.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Aug 14, 2012 - 06:31pm PT
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The ones we rapped on were totally shot at the bottom.
Paul's are good though!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 14, 2012 - 06:46pm PT
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Hmmm I wonder when C&I, or any of the routes actually going through the roofs on the Badge, are gonna get freed. Probably not anytime soon.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 14, 2012 - 07:58pm PT
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I feel like a few dudes who post on here ALMOST started talking about the one free route that goes up the badge awhile back. Wonder what happened to those guys......
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 14, 2012 - 09:07pm PT
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Really, sounds like an interesting periodical. Hopefully they'll be ready for a reminisce once work is outta the way :-)
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 15, 2012 - 12:11am PT
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GF couldn't you hire somebody like the Crap Crags scrub and trundle crew to give a retro buffup to Fortress? thus ensuring more future glories?
then again what if they renamed it. that wouldn't fly. it'd be astronomical mad englishmen all over again.
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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Aug 15, 2012 - 01:45am PT
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Cheers Fish Boy, whoever you may be in real life! Chris has my number. I'll be back in Squamish/Vancouver in September (working in the bush in the Yukon at the moment). Give me a shout and I'll trade you beer for old rope. I got a bit lost on the descent too. Luckily, several teams raced up Angel's Crest and showed me where to go. One kind soul even gave me some smokes, as I had dropped my tobacco on the third day of my crawl up the badge. Things got a bit grim after that.
As it's a photo thread, heres some crappy phone camera shots of the slowest ascent of a 6 pitch route in history..
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.4065953900575.155939.1634125566&type=1&l=2ecb4b4d0a
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Aug 15, 2012 - 03:44am PT
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BK: As for blowing up the Escape Route, like Manuel "I knows nuttink". If there is any truth to the story, it was the work of the next generation, the infamous Squamish Hardcore. I fully endorse the plan, but have always wondered if it was another Squish legend...... esp since it is related by Big Jim. Apocryphal or not, it's a great tale and a great idea.
There's still time!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Aug 15, 2012 - 04:09am PT
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Glad to hear you guys enjoyed Cowboys and Indians.
I referred to the horizontal flake on the third pitch as "The Scalping Party" and the cool expanding features at the start of the fourth as "The Flap Jacks". The beautiful upper corners are "Where the Buffalo Roam".
The quality of rock and position it's six pitches offer qualify it as "A Little Big Wall".
I liked it so much I went back and did it a second time with Cozzy in a single 12 hour push.
The name seemed obvious given there's a Sheriff's Badge on a sleeping Chief.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 15, 2012 - 09:45am PT
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Good work Fish Boy!
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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Aug 15, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
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I only used one fixed head at the end of the second pitch. All of the stuff in the middle could be gotten around by A1 beaks, either hand placed or given a couple of love taps. Beaks are magic. (I don't like fixed heads after snapping two and taking a fair lob on Cannabis Wall) The hooking bit at the end is a bit heads up though.
I didn't think the 3rd pitch traverse was too bad in terms of scaryness while on it. Ended up running out of cams while 2/3 the way across at around 10.30pm, lowered down and tried to penji over to the next corner in the dark. It didn't work. So I went back to the ledge then re-aided the traverse the next day and back-cleaned some green camalot size pieces to get across the end. Lots of fun. Thought it was definitely the "logistical crux" of the route. Save a couple of green camalots for the end and you'll save yourself some grief.
I remember looking down at the top of the flake from the belay at the start of the 4th and being able to see clear through behind it. Then it felt a bit scary....
The 4th pitch was magic. The flake at the start was lovely and pulling through that roof was mega.
Had a bit of trouble passing a tree on the 5th, and the 6th went by in a blur as I'd dropped my smokes and kinda wanted off :-)
In terms of rack, I brought a bunch of iron but didn't end up using very many KBs or Angles. Stubby LA's and beaks (I had 8 and used them all) were the business. I didn't end up using camhooks at all, but different strokes for different folks.
Awesome route Chief, thanks. One of the coolest bits of climbing I've done so far. Quick question though, how tall are you? I often found myself cursing the 8ft tall giant with a core of steel who placed those rivets! :-) Excellent effort, I'm mystified as how you managed to get some of those things in!
Cheers
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Aug 15, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
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Hey Perry, thanks for the rad route!
I've got a question for you....did you drill those bat hooks to negotiate a small scoop with a little tree coming out of it? They were very close together and their existence seemed out of tune with the rest of the route. It seems that if you drilled a hole, you filled it. Just wondering.
I loved the super sneaky move on the mini roof before the main one, I was about to bail when my partner yelled out to blindy wave a blade around, and sure enough it found a home.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Aug 15, 2012 - 04:19pm PT
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Paul and Fishboy
Re the "Scalping Party" flake, I never thought it was hard, just cool and cam consuming. Would definitely go free.
Re reaches on ladders, I'm 6'2" and used a trick Sutton stole from Robbins for drilling. If you get your daisy length right you can use the tension to top step comfortably for overhead drilling and maximize distance between bolts. Robbins apparently did this on The Prow.
Re bat hook holes.
I'm wondering about the whereabouts of the "small scoop" you're referring to. Top of the second had some cool hooking on a dyke a ways above decent gear. I intentionally avoided bat hooking on this route and used stainless 1/4" Hiltis on the ladders.
One of two possibilities is someone else added them or they're holes left where Matt apparently chopped a few bolts on the second ascent because in his words "I always thought of it as my route". Go figure.
Given how close together they are, it sounds like they were added later. Too bad.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Aug 15, 2012 - 08:36pm PT
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I thought you may have done that with your daisy to drill the bolts. I'm the same height as you and fified a couple of times and hit the 2nd steps to get the reach, but found it too tiring and just linked nuts.
The small scoop is on the 2nd pitch. There were two holes where the route moves left a little before joining up with a flake. At the start of the flake was another 1 or 2 holes (I forget). I used none, they are not needed and after finishing the route they seemed so out of character with the style it seems you put it up in that I doubted they were yours.
You created a cool route dude, and with those pitch length I'd suggest it's better suited to soloing.
Any info on the line you abandoned further right on the badge that ends at the roof?
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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Aug 15, 2012 - 08:40pm PT
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I remember that wee roof move! I'm a bit of a short arse, so got past it by clipping a biner with a sling through the funking hole in my hammer, then using the hammer as a mini cheat stick. One of the more unique maneuvers I've done on an aid route. Remember wishing I'd had my camera with me at the time, it was a funny sight. Great fun. Don't remember any bat holes on the second. But along with being a bit short, I'm also a bit blind so its not surprising that I may have missed them. Unnecessary in any case. Superb route Mr Beckham.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2012 - 12:20am PT
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Nice work indeed Nick! I was up the Badge myself last week and looking over there from the terrace was just as impressive as the first time I was up there.
I missed this the first time around because it got buried by ypls talk, so I thought I would repost it for anyone else who might have missed this little Harry Hot Dog edit. I really appreciate the effort Harry, and thanks for the email :)
[Click to View YouTube Video]
I also really enjoyed Dru's Guy Edwards tales, they were quite humorous indeed!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2012 - 03:44am PT
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Last weekend I got out a bit too. Friday night we got on Cream Of White Mice
Nina and Kyle at the P1 belay
Kyle sends the last corner on p3/4
Pulling the overlap
Jamming to finish
Everything went pretty well but I decided to climb the face crack instead of duck into the easy corner. I'm not really sure why but after the runout traverse I guess I zoned in on the first protectable feature I saw. After 10m or so I end up on this little ledge below a black Barley bolt and some 10+ ish looking slab moves.
It was hot and those moves looked pretty rough plus I had come up here to follow the original route so I deked back right and did a pretty cool jamming reach back into the original corner. I got up to the last crux move and my fat fingers were not giving me very good purchase in the little pocket and my right foot just didn't want to stick to the slab.
I tried the move over and over again but could not bring myself to commit, my brain was stuck. Eventually after 20 minutes or so of this non-sense I downclimbed a little and snuck around the right to finish up to my own shame. I guess I wasn't quite on point after working all day and frying on the slab in the late afternoon sun.....
Saturday Ben and I hit the reset button on our previous weeks plans of Borderline. We were both pretty darn stoked, Ben's said he's been waiting 10 years to jump on this thing.
As I was belaying Ben up the first pitch another party arrived and asked me what we were doing. I told them Borderline and when I inquired about thier plans they quickly replied "Daily Planet". I was pretty impressed since it didn't look like they had much of a rack with them and certainly no aid gear...
Ben called me to watch him as he was trying to negotiate the 10b crux, and one of the gentlemen says who are you climbing with? "Oh that's Ben!" He says, Ben R? and I nodded. He calls up, "Hey Ben it's Mike!" Ben says "No way, I heard you were out here!" Small world.
They followed us up the first pitch and Mike was hot on my heels the whole way. It was funny because having him there waiting for me made me commit to the moves that much faster and I got the reachy slab crux very easily, and ran up to the belay. After the sort I got the next lead, and ducked out on the 5.8 right variation successfully and ran up to last little slabby bit before the belay which was surmounted without much difficulty.
Mike decided to do the 11c pitch in it's entirety which was very cool to see.
He commented that it was pretty hard until you figured out that key hold!
We swapped leads and Ben set off onto the left face of the badge. Somehow when I looked at my phone it was 2:00pm allready. I couldn't believe it had taken us 3 hours to rack up, hike and dispatch the first two rope lengths. I've simuled the Chief in less time. Ben did pretty good on the 10d pitch, but couldn't quite free the crux.
I followed and with Mike on my heels again I flowed pretty well to my own surprise through the traverse. I freed the crux and got up to my first roadblock aka Ben's gear. He sank it in there good. He was nutting his cams and it made them quite the *bitch* to get out. So here I am in the middle of the wall fighting to hold on to my greasy jam and fish this overcammed nutted cam. I'm cursing Ben and Mike is right behind me on the last move of the traverse, trying not to fall off because he is laughing his bag off so hard.
After fighting several more similar placements I finally gave in to the dark side and took a hang to sort yet another cam out. I ended up leaving it because I was fighting for so long that Mike suggested he give it a shot. The crack widened a bit and the cams got easier.. Thank god :)
I got this shot of Mike at the top of the 10d pitch
At this point the sun came out and it was my lead. I dispatched the 10a without to much trouble, And brought Ben up.
Looking up
Ben had left the bottom of the tagline at the last belay so I figured he was going to want to rap at that point...
We rapped to the last anchors then twice more to edge of the badge. The last one is a 55m free hanging doozy with an old rope fixed to it.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2012 - 11:18am PT
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Nice link supafly! Thanks!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2012 - 11:50am PT
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Tami- Can you comment on the origin of the name for Cream of White Mice? A little birdy told me it might not have anything to do with horses?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Aug 16, 2012 - 12:04pm PT
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Creamed on by a white mouse
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Aug 16, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
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I cant believe you guys finally got on borderline and didnt finish the route....the bolted 5.9 layback above is chill then its just a few slab moves and you can rap off into the gully below polaris in two 30m raps.
Next time
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 16, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
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Oh nice, thanks for the beta there Hoser. That would be great to only have to bring up one rope to get off from there. Who in there right mind would want to bail before a nice delicious offfff widddth?!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 16, 2012 - 12:53pm PT
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the bolted 5.9 layback above is chill then its just a few slab moves and you can rap off into the gully below polaris in two 30m raps.
Or climb another easy pitch, scramble over to the arete, and finish up the Angels Crest.
Who in there right mind would want to bail before a nice delicious offfff widddth?!
Well, if you're the kind that does want to bail in that situation, look closely at Mike's picture. The original path we took did not include the OW, but went around it to the right. Technically a fair bit harder, but a lot easier on the body.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Aug 16, 2012 - 03:16pm PT
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its not an offwidth cause you layback the thing, if you get into it then well its a bit of a struggle
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Aug 16, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
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This is a pretty cool Squamish Story.
Written by none other than Hamish F.
Retold by Jason Kruk of De-compressing Cerro Torre fame.
http://vimeo.com/47592057
Not sure if this has been posted here before. If it has, sorry.
Lasti
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 16, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
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Thanks for that video Lasti! I had no idea there was one for this. So that's where Hamish has been hiding, huh? IN THE BOULDERS!!!!
Great narration Hamish. Total respect. You are a class act.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 16, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
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That is a cool vid for sure & very nice narrative by Hamish, very humble. It inspired me to flip back a ways & read his harrowing account of the FA. The remote drone camera angles are pretty cool too! Sadly I was hoping for more footage from the crux pitch. Awesome short either way.
Thanks for the pics Mike! What ghost said for next time, 1 rope & top it out! I think once upon a time I did the pitches of borderline up to the ledge with Ben as well, can't remember what else we did but distinctly remember those first few pitches.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 17, 2012 - 12:00am PT
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So, I just spent an evening in the pub with Eric Hirst, one of the two people with whom I spent years cleaning and climbing Borderline. He says no, we did not originally bypass the OW to the right. That the hard bit I'm thinking of is above that.
F*#ked if I know. He's not as old as I am, and should have a clearer memory. On the other hand, he's become a Sport Climber, so shouldn't be trusted no matter how good his memory is.
Maybe one of you able-bodied active climber types should tow me up it on the Labor Day weekend to refresh my memory. Because I know I never set knee, shoulder, or chicken wing in that off width thing, and that there was some really nice 11a face climbing up there somewhere.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 17, 2012 - 12:36am PT
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There's definitely some nice slab climbing above the OW.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Aug 17, 2012 - 01:32am PT
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Sure is, crux of the whole route imo.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2012 - 11:13pm PT
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I cant believe you guys finally got on borderline and didnt finish the route....the bolted 5.9 layback above is chill then its just a few slab moves and you can rap off into the gully below polaris in two 30m raps.
Next time
Who in there right mind would want to bail before a nice delicious offfff widddth?!
Ya.. It was pretty hot that day and then the sun hit us. Ben was all stoked after the 10d pitch but after baking in the sun belaying me on the next 10a he probably changed his mind. I was pretty glad too because I was kinda feeling the same way and we were both out of water by that point.
Ohhhh, dear. Let's just leave it at the route name being a play on the famuss Brit route A Dream of White Horses and say that anything beyond that would be TMI :-)
Sorry Tami, I couldn't resist... Thanks for confirming :)
I think once upon a time I did the pitches of borderline up to the ledge with Ben as well, can't remember what else we did but distinctly remember those first few pitches.
It wasn't you that went up The Daily planet with him was it? He told me his big whip story on that one..
Maybe one of you able-bodied active climber types should tow me up it on the Labor Day weekend to refresh my memory. Because I know I never set knee, shoulder, or chicken wing in that off width thing, and that there was some really nice 11a face climbing up there somewhere.
Hunh.. funny I checked my 01 guide and it doesn't even list the last two pitches. They don't show up till the 05 guide.. there is definetly a 10d face pitch after the off-witdh. I would love to climb it with you! I don't know about leading every pitch tho.. I think I can ;)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 17, 2012 - 11:31pm PT
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Hunh.. funny I checked my 01 guide and it doesn't even list the last two pitches. They don't show up till the 05 guide..
It's easy to think of climbing as just a fun and challenging activity done on rocks, with some local climber collating a bunch of information into a guidebook every few years. Unfortunately, the whole process involves human beings, and interpersonal relationships, and becomes personal/political very quickly.
Get a couple of beers into me, and I'll probably be willing to talk about it. Or, if you're in a hurry to understand some guidebook basics, go talk to Perry. Or any of the other old guys who you've come to know through this forum.
For the record, I think we finished Borderline (i.e. took it all the way to the point where it connects with the Angels Crest) in 1997. It was no secret. But as you say, it didn't really get into the guidebook for many years. How odd.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
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It's easy to think of climbing as just a fun and challenging activity done on rocks, with some local climber collating a bunch of information into a guidebook every few years. Unfortunately, the whole process involves human beings, and interpersonal relationships, and becomes personal/political very quickly.
Funny, this hit home thanks to recent events. Apparently the bottom of Sandra's Dirty Rope was a variation to one of the other climbs bitd, so a local Smoke Bluffs guide author is choosing to leave it out of his new guide.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Aug 18, 2012 - 01:02am PT
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Politrix!
That third pitch "10d" is nowhere near 10d. More like 10a. For me anyway. I found the offwidth considerably more challenging, and I actually seek out the things to climb. Then that bolted thing afterwards felt 11a for sure.
Sick route anyway, did a couple of weeks back, and then did Bullethead East with "The Gift" start and offwidth finish, and think they are both equally great ways to spend climbing time.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2012 - 02:06am PT
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That third pitch does have a couple tough face moves but the crack above is hard 10a for sure.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 18, 2012 - 12:56pm PT
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It's easy to think of climbing as just a fun and challenging activity done on rocks, with some local climber collating a bunch of information into a guidebook every few years. Unfortunately, the whole process involves human beings, and interpersonal relationships, and becomes personal/political very quickly. I'm quite impressed with the effort that Marc Bourdon went to, to ensure that the new edition of Squamish Select was as objective and accurate as possible. Unravelling the tangled skeins of some routes' history isn't an easy job, not to mention "overwritten" routes, and the problems of revisionism. Marc seems to have been quite thorough, and received and factored in input from a variety of sources.
No guidebook or climbing history is ever "The" guide or "The" history to an area - historiography has learned us that. And none is entirely accurate. But some are certainly more accurate and have a wider perspective than others.
I did my best to persuade Marc to include North North Arete, as a classic moderate climb, without success. He insisted on including some 5.12+ ten pitch route on Zodiac Wall instead, one of those routes that looks good on paper but which will rarely be done. Perspective...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2012 - 03:37pm PT
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Greetings from the top of the apron! Hope everyone is out enjoying the nice weather! Kieran and i got up early to go do angels crest, but apparently a 7am start on a saturday nets 7 or so parties in front of you, so we bailed. Then came over and ran up bottom line and over the rainbow.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 18, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
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That's funny you say that Anders about the thoroughness of Marc's guide. One of the only FA's I did on the Chief got totally written over. But mostly it is a great and accurate guide.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2012 - 06:30pm PT
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Speaking of climbs that got omitted how did hanging gardens not make the cut?
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Aug 19, 2012 - 02:30am PT
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Speaking of climbs that got omitted how did hanging gardens not make the cut?
I was about three days late getting the info to Marc on that route. The routes he chose for that area are squeezed into a two page spread, and unfortunately there isn't enough material for another two pages at the Papoose. Each area starts with a new spread and intro, so it had to work in two page increments. This sounds like it caused considerable frustration in certain spots trying to fit stuff in with late additions and pressure to include certain routes.
It is included in the downloadable updates section from his website.
http://www.quickdrawpublications.com/Free%20Downloads/Squamish%20Select%20Updates.pdf
K
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 19, 2012 - 12:26pm PT
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This is NFR, coming to you all live from the first pitch of Cruel Shoes! Posting from Relic's account, as I have neglected to bring my own phone, NFR, TKC, and Relic set out to make Hamie proud!
Stay tuned....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2012 - 01:46pm PT
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Awesome flick! Thanks for the link Tami! Hamish is popping up all over these days! :) Where are you Mr Frasier? Haven't heard from you for awhile. ;)
Cool pictures Jim! They illustrate it well. It's all about the layback and keeping those feet high! When i led it i was feeling the moves, but the endurance was severely lacking. The pillar and sword whooped my butt!
I was about three days late getting the info to Marc on that route. The routes he chose for that area are squeezed into a two page spread, and unfortunately there isn't enough material for another two pages at the Papoose. Each area starts with a new spread and intro, so it had to work in two page increments. This sounds like it caused considerable frustration in certain spots trying to fit stuff in with late additions and pressure to include certain routes.
Thanks Kris! I had a feeling it was something like that. Too bad, excellent route imho. It seemed like it was seeing some ascents so hopefully the "publicity" did it some good.
Sleeping won out over climbing this morning, hence this post, but Sandra and i are going to go get some in this afternoon.
This is NFR, coming to you all live from the first pitch of Cruel Shoes! Posting from Relic's account, as I have neglected to bring my own phone, NFR, TKC, and Relic set out to make Hamie proud!
Stay tuned....
Ya boys SEND IT!!
STOLEN FROM RELICS FACEBOOK ACCOUNT!
Derek Woolgar photo
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 19, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
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This is tkc, posting live from the bottom of the runout pitch. I sharted while belaying nate across the third pitch and need some tp bad
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 19, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
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This is MH, posting live from his desk where he's hard at work on something that probably isn't all that important. Oh well.
Knowing how much busted glass is embedded in the ground in and around the campground at the Chief, I'd never walk barefoot there.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
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Wow you guys were still on cruel shoes at 1145? Gonna be a long one!
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Aug 19, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
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Is it really a great "Select" guide?
I have seen many select guides and they are THE select routes of the area, this is just a regular guide that sort of has some weird criteria for making it in the book.
There are loads of routes that are in there that havent been clean in a decade or more...I dont get it.
I would say, at best its a book that will fill the void for those that dont have Kevins book and need something till the comprehensive guide comes out.
There are the same mistakes of topos with one grade route descriptions with another...personally if you have Kevins book and managed to download the topos of the newer climbs I wouldnt bother purchasing the new book.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2012 - 04:26pm PT
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But what about all the pretty pictures hoser? I for one do like the new format, but do notice the limitations.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 19, 2012 - 04:31pm PT
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Ya, theres three of us so it's going a bit slower.
Spray alert: Luke just redpointed the Pillar!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 19, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
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By definition, a select guide is ... select. Hence to some extent reflecting the author's character, and never including, or excluding, everything that might be. Within that limitation, the new guide seems to me to be accurate, and fairly present the routes. Its market may be more visiting climbers than locals, of course, although there's an awful lot of climbs in it. Hell, in the 1970s we were kept busy by the 100 or so climbs that then existed. No need for 500 or 1,000 or more.
A comprehensive guide reflects the author's character and biases in a different way. With 55 years of history, it could hardly be otherwise. That's historiography, and that's why wise authors farm out their writings to reviewers and editors, to minimize the subjective element.
FWIW, if I did a select guide to Squamish and area, it would only include routes up to perhaps 5.11, and maybe not many that hard. In other words, climbs within the reach of most climbers. Maybe there'd be a separate market for a select hardperson's guide, but it mightn't be all that large.
"Luke just redpointed the Pillar". You either onsight the Pillar, without hangs, or you don't.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2012 - 06:29pm PT
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What? You can redpoint the pillar! He hanged last time on it so it sounds like he got it clean this time! Congrats!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2012 - 11:20pm PT
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Wow. I just realized that we beat the Wings of Steel thread recently, which was the largest on topic thread I have ever personally witnessed on this site! Great work guys and gals! Thanks to all the contributers large and small!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2012 - 12:49am PT
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Perry that is an amazing idea. Certainly anyone who has read the 70's thread is well aware of some of the history there. We were actually talking about throwing a little social on psyche ledge one of these days... Maybe after the fire danger has receeded a little?
How's about some pics from cruel shoes Relic? NFR?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 20, 2012 - 01:08am PT
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We could test the waters with a get together one evening this summer.
Will there be vomiting?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2012 - 01:28am PT
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Sounds good to me! Whatever works for everyone else...
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Aug 20, 2012 - 01:30am PT
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This is somewhat OT, but who cares?
It's been around 32-34C here in the Koots for the last two weeks. Sometimes the friction isn't what it should be, and sometimes the black rock is smokin' but we're not complaining. Fortunately we have lots of creeks, rivers and lakes to cool off in. Floating the Slocan River, in a fully provisioned Explorer 200 from Wally-Mart, is a great way to spend a day, or two or three.... Last year we named a new 2 pitch climb "Lazy River", on the Polished Wall, as it was moderate, fun and wandered around a bit, just like floating.
Today we were at Slocan again, struggling up local faves like "Industrial Disease", "Booms and Busts" and "Funky Earth Chick Mother". How's that for a Kootenay name? Bobby N led Salamander 11a, but I sat that one out--literally--in a lawn chair at the base. Chairs and something to swim in are 'de rigeur' here, as they say in Euro-speak.
You can do this silly stuff in fresh water! Not recommended at Squish.
EDIT: Did someone say "Test the waters?" ha ha We did, and they were GREAT!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Aug 20, 2012 - 01:36am PT
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Great ideas mr chief, sir.
Thanks g. Rad you shared your old bivi cave with your daughter!
Cool movie ya posted a page back, thanks tami.
I think psyke ledge definitely deserves to be recognized for being culturally and historically significant. How does a group go about achieving a such status?
**
Aug 19, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
Knowing how much busted glass is embedded in the ground in and around the campground at the Chief, I'd never walk barefoot there.
Thanks, Mum. Snicker.
**
+1.. Snicker.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 20, 2012 - 02:17am PT
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Kids these days...
Some of us remember (barely, of course) the original Squamish highway, pre-1968, when it followed a route that included what was later called "psyche ledge". The last party and bonfire there was in September 2004, in memory of Daryl. It poured rain. Just like old times.
Isn't the "Canadians chop down Cerro Torre, mistaking it for old growth Doug Fir" thread also fairly long?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2012 - 02:49am PT
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Thanks for the pic Hamie! Great to see you out enjoying yourself! Definetly not OT btw. Once a Squamish climber, always a Squamish climber.
Anders- Come on, you can use the ST search function can't you? Nice joke but the Cerro Torre is about 1500 short of us.
Sandra and I visted the Bluffs this afternoon...
Tree Hugger
Sandra follows one of my favorites, Old Age 5.9
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 20, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
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So yesterday... the plan was for Nathan and Luke to do Cruel Shoes - Grand Wall - Roman Chimneys. I dropped the two boys off at the parking lot and was gonna go pull on some pebble sized boulders. Luke and Nathan tried to convince me to be come with them, but I was like nawwwww. Then they started posing all tough guy like.
They convinced me eventually after showing that I could be all burly like them if I came. So off we went beginning on Apron Strings.
Luke piped up to lead the first pitch of Cruel Shoes.
This relegated me to BK (belay kasual)duties. Hmm, this picture looks familiar somehow...
That first pitch has a really thin tricky part. Luke styled it on lead and Nathan figured it out too. I totally gave up and took a wussy pendulum past the crux.
Nathan lead the traverse pitch which has a bit of a surprise ending on it. I was initially belaying him but had to pass off the belay duties to Luke so I could do some uhhh, well nevermind. Nathan took a whip just before the belay, ratttts! I used some crazy foot dyno thru the crux, climbing higher than either Luke or Nathan went. Nathan was impressed with my top rope tough guy skills. Luke just decided to climb it smartly with no trickery needed all casual like.
Luke led the overlappy corners pitch with dignity, taking us to the start of the 5.9 casual pitch, casual as in hardly any friggin pro. Nathan started up across to the very committing start of it, looked up and came back to the belay. "No way!" he said, "that's friggin scary!"
There was a bolt a ways up there, which must be relatively new. I only ever remember some old piton bashed into the top of a ledge. To get to it, you got to do some sketchy moves, but Nathan channeled his inner tough guy and manned up to do it. There was 2 bolts and 2 small alien placements on the pitch.
Luke led the last Cruel Shoes pitch while I rested my tongue from singing to much on the climb.
Luke had some unfinished business to take care of with the Pillar so he set out up it.
I started feeling super lame and tired on the Pillar but got up it fine. Man o' man, gone are the olde days when I had this thing on lock down easy mode, so sad, it made me wanna go home and curl up on my couch with some cold bevies. I pleaded with the boys to abort mission.
Lukes like say whaa? Hmmmm...
So then the three amigos decided due to sucky suck whiney Relic, we would call it a day. 3 man Cruel Shoes, Split Pillar it is.
So we went back to Luke's place for some refreshments and a little gibber jabber on the couch.
Ok, this is where thing got a little weird. Somehow we came up with the idea to go on a special attire ascent of the Apron. I think we may have been a little too refreshed.
But not to worry, the boys made it up Rambles and Banana Peel lickity split and returned back safely...
THE END!
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Aug 20, 2012 - 01:55pm PT
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Woohoo, get some!
Sums up the day nicely, however I do think that one pic you have of me that you said was following pitch one, I think is pitch three of Cruel Shoes.
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MH2
climber
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Aug 20, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
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however I do think that one pic you have of me that you said was following pitch one, I think is pitch three of Cruel Shoes.
One sing(sic) among many that it was a good day.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2012 - 09:56pm PT
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Thanks Relic! mh2 been out lately??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2012 - 12:57am PT
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Hey Jim can you pm me the original of that? I would love to zoom in on it a bit so i can check out those anchors to the right of the pillar.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Aug 21, 2012 - 01:21am PT
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Glad you like them Tami! They got me quite a few looks, particularly when I went into town with shorts over top of them, and wearing the hat. Note the headlamp on top.
My goal is a tribute to Keith Reid. My unofficial nick is NFR, after him.
On our Apron descent, Luke had his approach shoes and I was barefoot, so he ran ahead of me. I caught up to some other people on the way down and asked them if they had seen a funny looking guy come that way.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2012 - 01:26am PT
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ROFLMAO!!!! HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!! they'll talk about that one!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 21, 2012 - 01:31am PT
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There was like 5 parties all backed up on Freeway today. There didn't sppear to be any spandex up there or any sing-songs for that matter.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Aug 21, 2012 - 01:48am PT
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Looks my buddy Danny from Australia on Cerb right there^^^^!
NFR, TKC and Relic, youse are loony.
I finally retrieved all my gear from the top of Cowboys and Indians tonight! Came down with 3 new ropes! Who was that in Valley Cliff shining a green light on as we rapped just an hour ago??? Looked like your house Luke.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 21, 2012 - 01:56am PT
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Perry, isn't there a music festival in Squamish this Saturday (25th), then the big Vancouver-Whistler bicycle tour on the 8th? Would either make a difference?
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Aug 21, 2012 - 01:58am PT
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I believe it's called the Grand Fondo Anders.....
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 21, 2012 - 02:05am PT
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There's unclimbed cliffs like these all the way up the coast,we just need some local pirates to plunder the gold.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 21, 2012 - 02:07am PT
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Aug 21, 2012 - 02:19am PT
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Any hints to as where, please?
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 21, 2012 - 02:26am PT
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This is a job for Mighty Hiker.
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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Aug 21, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
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I finally retrieved all my gear from the top of Cowboys and Indians tonight! Came down with 3 new ropes!
When you say "new", do you mean half a purple one, a horrible stiff white one with a knot in the middle, and an orange one thats starting to look a little beat along with a crappy old crab...... :-) I can arrange for beer and stories to be exchanged for the orange one in September....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2012 - 03:50pm PT
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Maybe Sept 8 would be best as to avoid the festival? Grand Fondo won't make much difference I don't think as they just ride through town... Traffic might be busy but should mellow out later in the day...
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Aug 21, 2012 - 03:56pm PT
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Yeah Paul, them's the one's.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 21, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
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My first guess is that Harry's photos are from Princess Louisa Inlet and area, but every fjord up and down the coast has similar features.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
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LOL!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Aug 21, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
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Mike,
Pending confirmation with a couple key players (like Ms. Chief!), I'm aiming for Saturday Sept. 8 for the 1st Annual Psyche Ledge Rendezvous. If that conflicts with someone's plans for a massive road ride on Hwy 99, a BBQ, Outdoor Rock Concert, pedicure or Yoga retreat, I DON"T CARE!
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Scraptee
Trad climber
Tacoma
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Aug 21, 2012 - 07:27pm PT
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We planned a long weekend in Squamish not knowing that we’d be celebrating BC Day. We need to have BC Day in Tacoma... We did a bunch of relatively new (for me) routes in stellar August weather, especially for Squamish. On Friday at 2 p.m. we held number 3 in the queue for Skywlaker. Despite the line, it was fun, with a casual approach that should take some of the pressure off of Diedre. Saturday had temps in the 90s (32°C) so we headed for Europa, a 7-pitch, alpine-flavored, tragically misunderstood route. Yeah it was a bit loose in places but the setting was great and there were no crowds. If it was an alpine route in the Cascades it would probably see more ascents, espeically on a 3-day weekend. Sunday, with more high temps, we played on the Apron with Rambles and Over the Rainbow. We ended the trip with a drive up the Cheakamus R. Canyon and had a blast on Star Check Arête, 5.9 (one well protected move). Great trip to a great place
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2012 - 07:31pm PT
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Awesome Perry! Screw those spandex wearing skinny tire riding motherf*ckers! ;)
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Aug 21, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
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Hi Scraptee! I'm the guy who soloed past you on Skywalker, then met you again up on Bellygood just as you were topping out (I had just gotten off the Grand) and then ran into you once more in the liquor store.
Nice meeting you, and glad you enjoyed your time here!
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MH2
climber
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Aug 21, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
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Death by tray it shall be.
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MH2
climber
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Aug 21, 2012 - 11:40pm PT
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Ask Jeff Vader.
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MH2
climber
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Aug 22, 2012 - 12:34am PT
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Great thread. Thanks to all who post.
I saw RyanD at the Bluffs today.
Some of what I've been out to lately:
A few minutes before dropping a shoe most of the way down Unfinished Symphony
Quercus-ing (first photo below mislabeled as 31 Aug, should be 31 July)
A few hours before almost dropping Michael from the top of Black Dyke
The last time I did this route was with Sig Isaac and John Rosholt
A sport area left behind by an advanced civilization
Old friends from Seattle met doing Hard On
Hanger-less bolt at the top of p1 Genius Loci
At play in the boulders
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pazzo
climber
Vancouver BC
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Aug 22, 2012 - 01:53am PT
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Jim,
Pic 6 is me on Agonal ;)
If you would like to see Cerberus pics, I have dozens (and dozens).
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pazzo
climber
Vancouver BC
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Aug 22, 2012 - 02:02am PT
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Here, Cerberus...
Photo taken from Malamute by Andy C (MH2)
Also taken by Andy (from the belay this time)
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Aug 22, 2012 - 02:57am PT
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Scraptree: Good to read your positive impression of Europa/Crap Crags. It has always been a "tragically misunderstood route." Misunderstood and slagged mostly by those who have never done it!
MH2:
Pic #1. Are both climbers clipped to a single Fixe rap hanger?
Pic #2. Setting the cam, or a little French Free? :-)
Nice selection of pix.
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MH2
climber
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Aug 22, 2012 - 10:33am PT
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Hamie,
2 bolts in use in #1, one out of view
No weighting of the cam in #2
I guess you recognize Crap Crags/Europa in #5?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Aug 22, 2012 - 11:12am PT
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MH2: That's one scarey chockstone [?] in #5!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 22, 2012 - 11:29am PT
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Crap Crags ought to have been one of the most popular long routes at Squamish.
I know I've said this before, but I never understood why there weren't
line-ups for it.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 22, 2012 - 11:37am PT
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Wow! So many awesome photos, and stories! Thanks to all for contributing. MH2 it was nice to meet you for a brief moment yesterday. If you had shown up 5 min earlier you could have seen me screaming & whipping off the top of crime! After you left i realized i wanted to tell you how much i enjoy your photos, only to see a bunch more here now! So much climbing happening in Squamish these days & so many awesome posts with awesome photos from recent to this thread from many. Amazing!
I'll add a few from Sunday when me & my friend Josh & i had planned to go check out this 3 star route called planet caravan. Well we got about 1 pitch up which was one of the more stressful warmups i've done, weird smearing with no handholds up a groove past 4 bolts at which time a crack sort of appears under the few inches of needles & grime. After digging my way up this pitch with my nut tool we had a peek at the next which looked like a bolt ladder to some runout slab climbing on black lichen coated granite. We decided that maybe heading back to the forest & getting on something a little more brazilian would be a good way to worship at the temple on this fine day of the lord. The upper part of this route looked amazing & i think it is likely of high quality but it seemed as though it hadn't been climbed this year or maybe even last year. We cleaned up most of the holds & placements on the first pitch which was really cool climbing but just a tad too filthy. There is also some major treed ledges above which could contribute to the excess needles on this route. Anyone (scrubber?) know anything about how clean the upper pitches are on this?
So we headed over to liquid gold. Here's some belayer taken butt shots with an iphone for all you photogs who will obviously be curious as to what kind of glass i've got :-) This is a mega route that deserves classic status, go do it. We did some newly scrubbed fingercrackish variation to the left of the p3 chimney, anyone have info?
Cerberus looks wild, here's a view of it from crescent tower. Marc Andre & a lady who he was swinging leads with can be seen heading up the dykes.
Speaking of Star cheak anyone here know anything about an accident/rescue down there? I saw emergency vehicles parked at the top the other day & it looked like they were organizing/executing a rescue near the spot where the climb tops out.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2012 - 01:27pm PT
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Wow is right! A party, another couple lurkers, another beautiful post from mh2, ryand throwing his hat into the ring too! Haven't got a chance to peep the pics yet since im on my phone but looking forward to it.
Europa is on the list, maybe soon? Hmm....
Got a quick run up Banana Peel in with Sandra last night. Simul went well, it was good training for ultimate this weekend.
Stoked to see everyone on the 8th and meet some of you who i have not had a chance to meet!
Edit: beware the death tray!
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Aug 23, 2012 - 01:37am PT
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Led all pitches on The Great Game today...maybe my favourite route I ever done at Squamish?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 23, 2012 - 02:21am PT
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Hey Jim i think 10pm?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2012 - 02:40am PT
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Ryand- Cool pics! Thanks! I've heard liquid gold is pretty good..
Nick- How was it, i've heard it's pretty sweet. You get a good look at Right Wing??
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Aug 24, 2012 - 08:46pm PT
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Nah Mike, ya cant see right wing from there. By the way, I linked pitch 2 into 3 with a 60. Drag was minimal with long slings, and it means you are belaying at bolted anchors the whole time too. I had 2 meters of rope spare.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Aug 25, 2012 - 01:44pm PT
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Yo Ryan that finger crack variation to the left is a route i helped scrub and FA with Aaron kristiansen. The lower 3 pitches are clean and provide a less burly alternative to the wide section of liquid gold. The upper couple pitches require a lot of work and will not be ready until next season.
Sick photos every body.
Nice send fish; you bring the wife and fetus up there? And whens then house warming party!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 25, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
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Hey Luke nice work on that one! We thought it was super fun, maybe 10b so a bit more difficult than the LG chimney, more than clean enough with good pro & moves. I saw the ropes on the upper pitches & it looks pretty good up there as well. Is there a name for this thing? Cormier crack??!
So nobody has any info on planet caravan??
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Aug 25, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
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It's called kreama(sp?) when linked in to LG will be known as kreama gold(sp?)
Topo to be released soon, Aaron named it after his friends who just got married!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2012 - 11:28pm PT
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A Heli just landed on the second peak and then took off towards the squamish river mouth. Wierd???
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 25, 2012 - 11:35pm PT
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A Heli just landed on the second peak and then took off towards the squamish river mouth. Wierd???
They were probably just surveying the top of the Chief to see where to put the upper station for the gondola.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 26, 2012 - 12:47am PT
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I just scored free beer and table scraps at Luke and Aislinn's place with NFR, weird??
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Aug 26, 2012 - 01:29am PT
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Not weird. It was to celebrate your send of some short rock, and mine and TKC's much more impressive 3 hour ascent of the Grand yesterday evening.
We can all be mortal hardmen!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Aug 26, 2012 - 10:17am PT
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Kinda weird.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2012 - 11:37am PT
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I know, I know... I can't spell for shi*. Stupid i before e rule.
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MH2
climber
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Aug 26, 2012 - 12:40pm PT
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Strange place to scrape up with a DSLR
The big camera got used before: a party on Godforsaken Land
And after: next batter up
Not so much during: the party on Godforsaken Land
The Godforsaken Land finish
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 27, 2012 - 12:07am PT
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THE PAIN!
THE BLOOD!
The forest
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 27, 2012 - 12:12am PT
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Wow, carrying a full backpack up the Squaw huh? Epic.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 27, 2012 - 12:13am PT
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You mean Slhanay, perhaps? Although the story of its (re)naming isn't quite as told in a recent issue of Gripped.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 27, 2012 - 12:42am PT
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I'll settle for Squawhanay, nothing less.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Aug 27, 2012 - 12:45am PT
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Rumor has it, Psyche Ledge, Saturday September 8, 19:00 ish?
Unsanctioned, unofficial.
No booze, no fire, no mayhem.
Possible dinosaur sightings, war stories, slander and lies.
Unofficially, there's interest in designating the old haunt as historically significant and allowing for for some renovations.
That is if course if we're interested.
What's the odds it rains?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 27, 2012 - 12:52am PT
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Renovations? Like to the shrubbery? I say yay, make a once special place special again.
Do we have to make reservations to sleep under Rat Rock?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 27, 2012 - 01:02am PT
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Cool photos MH2 & Relic, right wing looks awesome for sure! What problem is that Relic?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 27, 2012 - 01:18am PT
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The fist crack roof is Quest For Pain. It's right above Heartbreak Hotel.
The sloper rail one is Greg's Basement. A total sandbag...but fun. In the Wendy's World area.
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pazzo
climber
Vancouver BC
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Aug 27, 2012 - 08:04pm PT
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Wow, carrying a full backpack up the Squaw huh? Epic.
You mean an over-the-shoulder DSLR bag. Even worse.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2012 - 04:30pm PT
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MH2- Super cool pics! Thanks!
Relic- Looks like Kieran ripped his hand open again eh? Damn..
Did someone say Squaw?
Kyle Koroll Photo
Rumor has it, Psyche Ledge, Saturday September 8, 19:00 ish?
Unsanctioned, unofficial.
No booze, no fire, no mayhem.
Possible dinosaur sightings, war stories, slander and lies.
Unofficially, there's interest in designating the old haunt as historically significant and allowing for for some renovations.
That is if course if we're interested.
What's the odds it rains?
Cool! Who's in?? Sandra and I will be attending, Tami? still coming? Jimb? Anyone else? We can always string up some tarps if it does rain..
You mean an over-the-shoulder DSLR bag. Even worse.
Mad props to MH2 and crew for carrying and putting up with the DSLR non-sense on the big multis. It's hard just bringing my small one much less mh2's honkin lense. My Canon has been staying at home far to often lately in favor of the fast and light mantra.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 30, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
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Annual painting expedition, yesterday. Quiet day on the trail, showers later. Got all the graffiti on the posts and rails, and some of that on the reflective markers. (Unbelievable - graffiti on markers!) Still need to clean off the graffiti on rock (three places), and maybe replace some of the markers, as many are damaged or faded, too.
Painted over graffiti at about 30 locations altogether. From the type of paint and "style" of the graffiti, 80% was from one person. As with the litter pickup, no one notices it's not there - but it ain't, at least for a while.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 30, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
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Anders your Paul Binkert reincarnated.Good work!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 30, 2012 - 06:59pm PT
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Thanks - Paul Binkert was a close family friend, who I hopefully learned one or two things from.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 30, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
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Thanks Anders! U deserve a raise for sure!
Cool photos everyone!
Haha relic are u enjoying taking all the "real" climbers to any sort of boulder problem that could be somehow interpreted as a crack climb?! Quest for pain is a fun one for that & could not have a more fitting name.
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MH2
climber
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Aug 30, 2012 - 10:43pm PT
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Would LOVE to see REEFER eaten by rats.
Yes, if Anders can accomplish this miracle we will send details to the Vatican. He is sainted already, though.
That is a really well done photo of the Squaw(Slhanay) above, Mike.
Hope to show on the 8th.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 30, 2012 - 10:50pm PT
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Speaking of Mike I now notice in Anders 3rd photo that the tag on the same side of the post as the reflectors says "Mike".
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 31, 2012 - 01:09am PT
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Yo RyanD. Yes it is quite fun watching people rip their hand skin apart to a bloody pulp. I just sit back, far away. We should hook up and go pull on some pebs. I'm getting super close to that crimpy thingy we tried last time, so close.
I am down for some wholesome politically correct rated G activities at Psyche Ledge. Even though I may be already drunk or smashed on acid.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 31, 2012 - 01:31am PT
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Hey sounds good Relic I'd like to see u do that thing! sadly I'm going to the sierras next week until October to do some slogging in order to climb 5.easy mountains & frolic in tepid hot springs while eating Mexican food made by actual Mexicans :-( so I don't think I'll have a chance for a good session before then. May just wrestle a few pebbles down there too!
I'll hit u up when I get back & the temps are good in the forest.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Aug 31, 2012 - 03:46am PT
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Nice work MH--yet again.
It's 'whom', not 'who'. ha ha.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2012 - 04:05am PT
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Nice work Anders!
I managed to get out quite a bit last weekend.. Friday night Kieran and I made a Pillar bid via Apron Strings on the heels of Luke and Nate but they were much faster than us and managed to finish the Grand Wall.
We on the other hand made it to the base of the Split Pillar as darkness was decending upon us and I decided to save it for another day, knowing I had a pretty full day tomorrow.
Saturday morning the alarm went off early, but the snooze button got hit. We still managed to get out pretty early. Sandra and I ran up Banana Peel and Boomstick and made it to the base of The Ultimate Everything for noon.
Sandra at the P2 belay on The Ultimate Everything 10b
It went pretty well, she had a little trouble with the 5.8 jam cracks pitch but that's just because she needs hone her jamming technique.
She cleaned the 10b exit pitch!
Sandra was pretty stoked to get this one under her belt and I was stoked to lead every pitch and get my redpoint.
Sunday I picked up Kyle late.. I was pretty tired from Ultimate.. We took the half ropes and headed up the badge to get on Blazing Saddles.
I led the first pitch for the first time which was pretty cool. I left all the big stuff on the ledge with Kyle and I was wishing I had brought some bigger stuff when running it out after the tree.
Kyle on P1 (10b) of Borderline 11c (10d)
Kyle led the 5.8 to the Terrace and brought me up. When I got there he was spooked. He said "We didn't bring any big gear! That looks really wide! You sure you didn't sandbag me!" ;).... "Chill dude, look at the hand crack! We have lots of mid size gear!"...
Blazing Saddles 10b
I got my redpoint on the first pitch 10a. Which left Kyle with the 10b pitch.
Kyle starting out on the 10b pitch.
Standing on the spooky flake to place.
Getting into the meat of it.
Prepping to rap A Fine Line
Still gotta go back for the red point on the stellar 10b pitch!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 31, 2012 - 10:07am PT
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You are going to Bishop? You basterd! I miss the margarita's, salsa bars, and most of all the hot springs.
Oh and the pebbles ain't to bad down there.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2012 - 11:15pm PT
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When are you going south ryan?
It was an amazing day today in squamish. Me and kyle got out and did peasant's for our first time and got yelled at by nathan and relic on millenium falcon but we couldn't see them in the shade. Hope lots of you got out too!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Yep gonna take off on Thursday, pretty psyched. Not bishop though, too hot there still. Think high country.
Did manage to do a bunch of new pitches in the bluffs today that have been on the list for too long including supervalue, gords block & even a few cool roof cracks up at this little respiration rock place that some hosers did a great job of cleaning up. Wanted to do SDR but didn't know which one it was?? Where's that topo at Luke!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Maybe see you guys on Sunday - I took some 13 year olds climbing on Monday, went hiking (graffiti removing) on Wednesday, and hiking again Friday. So today domestic, Sunday climb, Monday pick blueberries.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Millennium Falcon is a good route. That was my first time on it and it was a blast.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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And where might a Mighty Hiker be located climbing? Apron? Pet Wall? North Gully? Some of us will be around I'm sure to exchange pleasantries. I'm heading to the Norh Wall boulders but will be poking my head out of there to creep on Nathan and his partner who were planning on doing Freeway.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
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Me and Ben went and did Vector for my first time on thursday afternoon. He graciously let me lead Vector, and the beautiful 10c alternate pitch above it. I onsighted both which I was pretty stoked about.
Ben on Vector 5.8 from the Whirling Dervish/Evergreen State anchor.
I also forgot to mention he joined us on Peasants Route yesterday and took a bunch of nice photos while on ushba. Ill try and get those off him soon but for now,
Kyle on the last pitch (10b) of Peasants Route 5.10c
More later, climbing now.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Did three of these big paint-on-rock graffiti today - considerable logistics, time and effort required. Although I think I've got it figured out (thanks, dirtineye!), I also experimented with other techniques. The paint kills the lichens that underlie it, so once the paint is gone, there's a cleaned patch that takes a while to blend in. Still, maybe an improvement on what was there. While at work, Aislinn and Luke came by, which was nice. Luke had just finished a solo of a climb on the north walls.
Saw some other friends, plus gazillions of happy hikers, and picked up the usual bagful of garbage on the way down - including an ATC and a busted cell phone, a first, found below the south summit, on its west side. The phone is missing its battery pack - something that comes off the back, anyway. A fairly dumb smart phone.
It was fun talking with all the hikers about what I was doing, and this and that. No one seemed to mind it being busy, some needed information, and one even gave me an excellent ginger cookie! And I didn't once use the seven-letter "G" word.
The number of hikers remind me that a real need at the Chief is for more hiking trails. In particular, a good trail up the old mountaineers' route to the saddle between the Chief and Slhanay, then around the back and linking up to the existing trails. Lots of room for parking and stuff at the old gravel pit at the Slhanay end, would make a nice loop trail, plus an option when the Chief trail needs to be closed.
Naturally, I had coffee with Big Jim and The Bear before starting work. Interrupted by some obnoxious person I've never met before, but such is life. (Not one of the accountant-bikers, though.)
Monday: blueberry picking!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aislinn is such a good fiance. Hauling down Luke's bags of wall junk like a boss.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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MH, what did you use to get the graffiti off? I got a place where kids thought it would be cool to spray paint some rock, really stupid.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The magic stuff is called Removall. It was originally made in Vancouver, but maybe is now made elsewhere? There may be two or three varieties. It comes in a plastic bucket, much like an ice cream tub - four litres for about $45, which is enough to do a lot. (It's allegedly biodegradable, too.)
Anyway, you need Removall, a good stiff scrub brush, lots of water, and incidental things such as work clothes, something to protect your eyes, lunch, something to read, etc. Removall is a cheerful orange paste. The system:
1. Daub it on the painted area. (It sticks quite well, and I just use the scrub brush.)
2. Wait patiently at least 30 minutes, better still more. Until it seems to have entirely dried up and disappeared.
3. Rinse and scrub like mad, rinse some more. Lots of water needed - I carried 15 litres to the top of the Chief today, to get the one that was up high, unusually so. Plus serious elbow grease.
4. Reapply, and repeat steps 2 and 3.
Two to three applications usually do it. Each pass takes 80 - 90% of what's there, so at the end there's 1 - 2%, usually in crevices and niches. That's a realistic goal.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Thanks a lot, lucky it's by a creek so water will be readily available. Thanks again.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Anders, what a legend. You enjoy your blueberries tomorrow, you deserve a bountiful harvest!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Thanks for the hard work anders.
My climb actually was up tantalus wall, strange brew its called, it starts with cannabis wall then follows a bit of breakfast run but meanders around the A3+ Sutton and Burton pitch via some cracks on the free route midnight run.
What a spectacular linr. Mad props to Stanhope for freeing cannabis wall! BALLS! And shout out to Boyd and Sharp for adding the final 5 pitches.
Does any one know if Cwall has had a 2nd free ascent?
After an afternoon of sleep I'm now on my way down to northvan to celebrate laborday with a 15 hour overnight shift painting transformers!
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Nice Luke. You do realize that you're solo doesn't count cos Ais carried your stuff down?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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What the heck is happening in front of the Chief? Is there a fire?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
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dunno, heard something about that... I left town early today after we did Sickle via Straight Up to execute a couple quick passes. SPICY!
Sickle could use a little scrub love. I was having lots of fun, running things out a bit, and sticking steadfastly to the original fa line. I took a dirty exit at the top and quickly realized I was off-route, but tried to make a go of it anyways.
I weighted my left foot on some crunchy moss and reached for the tree branch as my savior, but lost it, went over a roll, got flipped and slid on my shoulder a bit before I knocked my naked melon on the rock.
Got up pretty quickly and managed to polish off the route, but not without scaring Sandra pretty good.
Went to Squamish general for my first time to get the old noggin x-rayed and got a clean bill of health.
Needless to say I will be buying a new helmet as I hate how sweaty I get in my old one which is why I refuse to wear it most of the time.
That being said, Sickle is really fun! Just take the RIGHT finish!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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I actually went to Squamish on Saturday. First time there since May actually. We had a bit of a clusterf*#k getting started since Hoser was supposed to come with us but had some girl keeping him in bed, and he was supposed to bring the rack.
Anyways we managed to climb Hairpin. I had done the first pitch 6 or 7 years ago and then retreated due to rain. This is a fun route. I liked it a lot better than Papoose 1, maybe because you get to bypass that horrible flaring slot chimney on Papoose 1, but still do most of the cool traverse above the chimney.
We missed the traverse back to the last pitch and kept going all the way left on 5.6 ground to the top of Hanging gardens, then walked down. Good times.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2012 - 12:30am PT
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Thanks Tami. Sandra is all over it. I am not allowed any pain meds and am supposed to stay off the ladders tomorrow. Good news is the pain is minimal and has been getting better so far but i will be weary.
Dru- Good to hear you hit Hairpin. That second 10a pitch is one of my favorites!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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According to onlookers, the fire is taking place on the top of a small mountain behind Totem Hall and firefighters seem to be having some difficulty accessing the blaze. http://www.squamishchief.com/article/20120903/SQUAMISH0101/120909993/-1/squamish/fire-burning-behind-totem-hall
This suggests a fire on the knoll west of Totem Hall.
Not many blueberries were found today, but it appears there should be a goodly number in a few weeks. Time spent in reconnaisance is never wasted.
As with jstan, I only mention the little public works projects I undertake at and around the Chief to illustrate that anyone can make a difference, and perhaps to encourage others.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Nice Luke. You do realize that you're solo doesn't count cos Ais carried your stuff down?
We're a team anyways.
But does this mean she's got big wall babe status? ;)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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An inquisitive and not at all frightened deer seen during the blueberry hunt today. Only 15 m away.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Where do you all camp, if you're not driving back to e.g. Vancouver?
OK I don't expect to get the best bivvy ever, just some OK campgrounds. Times have changed since the Olympics, right?
Thanks,
Darwin
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2012 - 01:57am PT
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The chief campground is a pretty good option, http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/stawamus/
If your looking for dirtbag style, there are lots of logging roads around...
Cool Pic Anders! Thanks for all your hard work. I hope you had a bountiful harvest!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aren't there a lot of ripe blackberries around? There a gazillions ready to be picked around where I work in Vancouver, Marpole area. Make blackberry pie instead.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Blackberries abound. Ate way too many in the bluffs the other day, now I know what the bears feel like. Ughhhh I'll probably go back for breakfast.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Yes Luke, you get big wall babe status.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Yes, there are tons of blackberries around Vancouver - I usually get lots on the edges of the endowment lands. Another fine option. There were lots of tiny blueberries at about 1,000 m on the north shore, with better ones in warmer pockets. So another two or three weeks, some sunshine, and maybe a rain to fatten up the berries, should do it. Hopefully before or after the FaceLift.
Last night I went with friends to see a Norwegian movie called "Oslo, August 31st". The main character (anti-hero) is named Anders in both the movie and real life, but it was pretty sad - about his unsuccessful struggle to find meaning in life after drugs. One of the friends I went with is named Anders, and we agreed that our namesake needs to do better.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oh Tami, don't be such a grandmother. Being epic and doing horrible things can be fun too.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Tami, when were you picking? We saw bushes with tiny berries on Sunday, but mainly lower down. Promising, but not really there yet. The photo is from about half way to the top of Hollyburn.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
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Arright big guy just c'os the quackers sed yer Jake doesn't mean the goo inside your melon is all fabulous. -- Tami
Favorite Quote Ever!
It probably never was in the first place. Glad my stupidity can provide some humor for you Seth ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
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Here is the topo for Krimo Gold the route that Ryand and Luke were talking about next to Liquid gold.
There is also a thread on squamishclimbing.com about the subject. Looks like fun!
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Think I'll, do that in a couple of days...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Don't get your knickers in a twist. Most of the blueberries don't get eaten by anything, until they fall off and rot. The tart mountain berries go well with the sweeter but bland store-bought ones.
Arguably the problem is overpopulation of black bears on the north shore, due to extirpation of the grizzlies in the area, and a steady decrease in hunting.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Blame the bears and our lack of hunting them? Hmm, I think our encroachment and expropriation of their turf might be a larger factor.
Where's BK? I need help!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 5, 2012 - 03:06am PT
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Jim you are so right. Also we have taught them that eating our refuse is easier than competing with us. In some cases breaking into our houses lately around here..
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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District of Squamish
September 6, 2012
For Immediate Release:
“Extreme” Fire Hazard Throughout the DOS and the Coastal Fire Zone
Hot, dry weather in combination with forecasted outflow winds and no rain expected in the near future has resulted in EXTREME fire hazard conditions throughout the District of Squamish and the Coastal Fire Zone.
A fire ban has not been issued at this time, but fires are restricted to private property and supervised campsites. Fires in campsites and on private property should be no greater than .5 meters in height/diameter and under the constant supervision of a competent adult with a water source readily available to extinguish the fire when required.
The public is advised to use caution when engaging in outdoor activities as once started fires have the potential to spread rapidly and can threaten property and life. The public is also reminded that smoking is not permitted on trails, in parks and other public outdoor areas. Anyone who violates or committees an offence under the District of Fire Service Bylaw can be liable on a summary conviction to a fine up to $10,000.
With many exciting events taking place this weekend (GranFondo, Brackendale Fall Fair etc.), the public is encouraged to call 911 immediately if they spot grass or bush fires or if there appears to be an abandoned campfire. Every fire situation is a race against time. Quick action by the public ensures emergency response teams can react swiftly and minimize the damage. With the current dry conditions, a carelessly tossed cigarette, sparks from a chainsaw or a hot exhaust pipe coming into contact with grass all have the potential to start a wildfire. The “Extreme” fire hazard rating demands extreme caution.
For BC Parks restrictions visit www.bcparks.ca and restriction for lands beyond the District of Squamish visit the BC Ministry of Forest and Range Forest Service, Wildfire Management Branch website at www.bcwildfire.ca. If you require more information, please contact Squamish Fire Rescue at 604-898-9666.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Thanks for that fire warning. So maybe we should eat popsicles instead of BBQ?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2012 - 08:48pm PT
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Summer is late this year! Fireban starting sep 6th eh? Crazy.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
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Greetings from the top of the apron! Me and rick just finished up bastille/rock on! I love seeing the sun set up here!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Whenever I hear the words "For immediate release" I think of half-starved ferrets.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Whenever I hear the words "For immediate release" I think of half-starved ferrets.
Yeah, and if you're a real man, you'll tie off the bottoms of your pantlegs after you let the ferrets up there.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2012 - 02:23pm PT
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Going south soon. Hopefully it won't be too bad and we can turn left at some point to go climbing! ;)
Took a couple pics yesterday.. Here is Rick on Rock On, the only pitch which truly deserves that name.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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BM
Thanks for the moral support.
Hope the par-tay on Psyche Ledge goes well....... Keep an eye on MH, and all those other old folk!
Just back from cleaning a very dusty new line at Arrow Lake. Shower time.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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I'd love to be at the P Ledge party tonight. Maybe next year. But will see some of you at Squamish tomorrow, I hope.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2012 - 11:09pm PT
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Too bad gents. Would love to see ya! Glen we still have to go do skywalker before it gets wet out again.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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BM Thanks for the moral support.
Now, Hamish, just relax. It's not really your climb, nor mine, nor Jim & Bob's. Yesterday it was Mike's climb, and that's all that matters.
I'm all dirty from scrubbing, too. Although it was prepping my house for painting, rather than prepping a rock for climbing. But yeah, a shower, a beer, and a toast to whoever makes it to psyche ledge tonight. And to whoever did whatever climb -- regardless of what it's called in a guidebook.
D
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Hey Mike, I'm off to Skywalker tomorrow, with my son and his two torn rotator cuffs. Hope I can lead the hard stuff.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2012 - 02:47am PT
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Dave- it was our climb yesterday. It was so awesome! All my friends did that upper pitch wet on their onsite's. I got it dry! So beautiful! The whole climb is amazing. Were the cracks naturally clean on your fa hamie?
Glen. Good to hear you are getting on it. The gear is great so you shouldn't have any issues
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coastal_climber
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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I've yet to see one of those lumbering bylaw officers do their job. They have reserved seats in timmy hoes......
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 10, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
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Great meeting some of the OGs the other night. If that becomes a regular event, I will definitely make a point to be there.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Sep 10, 2012 - 03:19pm PT
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For those of us who weren't there, we need a Squamish Social Scene report. None of this "what happened on the ledge, stays on the ledge" nonsense. Just the "who and what" will be enough, as we already know the "when, where and why". Give those OGs a couple of beers, and they'll be off to solo the Grand!
Nails
How was Skywalker? Hope you had good weather. We had a monster hail, thunder etc storm here, only the second serious rain in 2 months.
EDIT: Very cool, Bruce. Who was behind it? North Face? Patagonia? Personal? Did you fly in, or walk in?
You have to love multi-pitch sport routes!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 10, 2012 - 03:41pm PT
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All this from the superbly crafted Haberl Hut.
Damn! Looks a bit more appealing than the old Red Tit hut.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Sep 10, 2012 - 04:57pm PT
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For those of us who weren't there, we need a Squamish Social Scene report. None of this "what happened on the ledge, stays on the ledge" nonsense. Just the "who and what" will be enough, as we already know the "when, where and why". Give those OGs a couple of beers, and they'll be off to solo the Grand!
Hamie,
Check out the Psyche Ledge thread for details.
Given it's a park now, it wasn't a debauch like the old days and that's probably not a bad thing.
We'll probably do it again next year and give a little more notice.
PB
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sep 10, 2012 - 11:19pm PT
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Hamie,
Well, yesterday the rain came. We went over to Skywalker, but there was a lineup. We figured we'd have to wait at least an hour, so we wandered over to Klahanie Crack. Multiple parties on it and queued up. So we did some errands in town, had a long, interesting chat with Kevin M, and headed onto the Apron. Did a pitch, but it looked like it was pouring across the river and headed our way, so we headed back to the car. Maybe next weekend.
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Sep 10, 2012 - 11:42pm PT
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One time... my buddy BRian eyed a line on the Apron.
Turned out to be really good climbing... once you get to the good climbing.
Anyway, betcha there were no lineups on IT.
"Frankenstein Tradster" I think he called it... over near Slab Alley.
Check it out yo.
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MH2
climber
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Sep 11, 2012 - 01:33am PT
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Turned out to be really good climbing... once you get to the good climbing.
Yes, and yes.
edit:
The year was 2006
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 11, 2012 - 11:56am PT
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A very large shout-out to Big Mike for starting one of the best threads on the Taco and for popping Wayno's Squamish cherry. I hooked up with Bruce McD on Sunday and we went over to Murrin where Mike had a rope on a real cool looking 5.9? called Reacharound? or something like that. I only got up about halfway before I ran out of gas, but not too bad for a totally off the sofa, doesn't work out, drinks and smokes too much, hasn't climbed in over a year, soft belly yank. Thanks Mike.
We had a short pub session at Howe Sound with Mike, Bruce, the Kid, Kyle, Nathan, Kirian?, and some of the lovely ladies of Squamish. Good times, and I have to say, I am impressed with the character of these young guns.
I can't wait to head north again.
Wayno.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Sep 11, 2012 - 12:22pm PT
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Wayno,
The Reacharound is tres cool.
I climbed it for the first time a couple weeks ago and thought it was awesome and stout for 5.9.
It felt like a mini Astroman complete with a short enduro corner to an awkward thrash into a bomb bay slot and a run out chossy finish. All in 30 meters of climbing. Killer!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 11, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
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We all wondered if that 5.9 rating was a some kind of sandbag. Kyle made it look like 5.8. It was starting to piss but that route stays pretty dry. That pitch coulda been in the Valley or Index. Stout rating indeed.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 11, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
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It felt like a mini Astroman complete with a short enduro corner to an awkward thrash into a bomb bay slot and a run out chossy finish. All in 30 meters of climbing. Killer!
I was going to post about how miserable I felt because I missed out on the Psyche Ledge get-together, but Perry's comment has changed everything. I've climbed Reacharound several times, so, applying the Paul Ryan Rule, I can now honestly say I've climbed Astroman dozens of times and in sub three hours. I'm a hero climber after all!
But seriously, I am sorry I wasn't able to join the fun, but we're racing the clock to get our house painted before the rains start. But I suppose the right way to look at it is that I did spend the weekend climbing. Just up and down a ladder, instead of a rock.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 11, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
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I'm still sore today but I don't feel injured. That is a good sign for me.
David, next time they do a psyche ledge party, we should show them how to do food. Jim Brennan had some fine salmon but some grilled sausages or something would help that skanky Canadian beer go down better. :*)
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Sep 11, 2012 - 04:00pm PT
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Stella or bust.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 11, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
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Local beers are win.
Hamish, I was hoping that you would show up! Still want to meet you in person!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 11, 2012 - 04:50pm PT
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Howe Sound had really good beer.
Luke had some crap inna can called pilsner that you had to drink really fast to fool your tongue.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Sep 11, 2012 - 06:01pm PT
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I would've been there with bells but my sisters' fam. was visiting and that happens once every 5 yrs.
Next year.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 11, 2012 - 07:06pm PT
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Not only that, a 'route' apparently created by heli-hiking poseurs. Probably rap-bolted, too. Grumble grumble. Sheesh, is nothing sacred?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 11, 2012 - 07:17pm PT
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I must say I'm a bit surprised at the complete lack of commentary on the existence of a rap bolted multi pitch high in the Tantalus range.
If it was down here, it might be the subject of debate, but in Canada, unless there's a gondola involved, no one will care. It's not like anybody violated the constitution by putting it up, and even if it doubles traffic in the area that'll just mean there are four parties on the mountain in a year instead of two.
If you want to get some spirited "bolted routes in the mountains" debate going, just troll the words "Infinite Bliss" across the Supertopo landscape.
David knows that the lighthouse belgium white is not skanky!
That's a true fact.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 11, 2012 - 07:24pm PT
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Yes, spies reported that you and hf had done the preliminary work for the new mountain gondola bike centre and tourist shake-down facility. Is it true that you and the proponents held 27 public meetings at the hut while there, to which all inhabitants of the Tantalus Range were invited to discuss whether the gondola cars would be green, blue, or both? And that the Ministry of Facilitating Park Development couldn't see anything amiss?
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Sep 11, 2012 - 07:36pm PT
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Has anyone else found the start of Penny Lane to be damned slippery? I was expecting something easy and had to really work for it. A few thousand more ascents and it will be 10.a.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 11, 2012 - 09:06pm PT
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Yeah, I found it so hard that I put a pin in, and thought it was 5.10a. So sue me already.
Those who want fixed anchors at the top of PL wilfully overlook the nature of the route - diagonal, crux at bottom. Fixed anchors would quickly lead to worse polishing, and a bunch of people with broken ankles from rope stretch and swinging - the simple physics are against toproping there. And it's hard to imagine how someone could do the route without being able to construct a simple belay at the top, if necessary continuing to the 'true' top and tying onto a tree.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Sep 11, 2012 - 10:08pm PT
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Now they just shuffle over to the anchors a top power windows whilst dragging their rope through the gravel and spray everyone below with rocks.
Regarding the grade, I would be surprised if Bourdon didnt upgrade it in the new guide...
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Sep 11, 2012 - 10:18pm PT
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Old School BK has been replaced with a new Euro version, he does have flash backs of his old ways but I believe they are more like nightmares for him now.
I am hoping he is just experimenting but when he asked me if his shoes matched his harness I started to get worried...
I guess the old school retirement party/intervention did nothing for him
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MH2
climber
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Sep 11, 2012 - 11:01pm PT
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It took us 12 full hours return from the haberl hut and that was with a light day pack!
Was it the photographer that slowed you down?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Sep 12, 2012 - 12:19am PT
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I'm not sure if I'm a real old timer or just posing as one. The color of my hair suggests I'm in that league so I'm happy to go with it. That route sounds great and all the rest of it, but my thinking, without ever having actually been there, would tend to be in the direction of Special Kay.
Bolting three feet from a crack? I thought Robbins dealt with that decades ago.
Not that my opinion should count for much as I'm too busy riding my bike to personally check it out.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 12, 2012 - 12:40am PT
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there is a pillar of pocketed rock out on the right* side that i think connie and jamie climbed in a seperate outing -really nice IIRC
gf
*left
I suppose using the Culbert guidebook conventions that it is "true right" (climber's left) though.
How many times over the years have climbers gone the wrong way because the guidebook (any guidebook) says left when it means right or vice vrersa
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 12, 2012 - 12:46am PT
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The route sounds great, and, at least from my perspective, plugging a cam is not somehow holier than clipping a bolt. But I'm 100% with Greg on the other thing: going into the mountains without a light rack is crazy.
Oh sure, if you're never more than shouting distance from ten other parties, then no worries. But anybody who never got off route in the mountains, or hit by a storm in the mountains, or overtaken by darkness in the mountains hasn't really done much climbing in the mountains.
You could argue forever about what constitutes the proper "light rack" but one thing I'm pretty keen on is sneaking a hammer and a couple of blades into my partner's pack.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Sep 12, 2012 - 01:12am PT
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Bolted rap routes. Now that's another biggie.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2012 - 02:49am PT
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Penny Lane has no need for any bolts. It has perfectly good small gear where Anders put his pin, and a bomber gear anchor which provides a decent top rope with a 70m rope and a very tight attentive belay. The sketchiest part is getting to the bolts on crime of the century to rappel without killing your belayer with gravel ;)
Thanks for the compliment Wayno. I simply facilitated the campfire at a time when it had briefly lost its flame and became disjointed. It was very nice to meet you and the Mrs. + Boris this weekend. I was stoked that you and Bruce Macdonald joined us for a little “Squamish style” cragging.
The Reacharound is an awesome little route. Quite varied as Chief mentioned and some endurance sections.
Nina leads The Reacharound 5.9
Getting her stem on
The 1st annual Psyche Ledge Party was awesome! Thanks for a well organized event Perry! I had so many awesome conversations and I didn’t even get a chance to talk to everyone!
Here are a couple pics..
From Right to Left. Front: Aislinn, Sandra, Nina, Relic, MH, Mrs Chief, Jim Brennan, ??? Rear: Brownie, Kyle, ????, Bruce Macdonald, Johnny 2 Vests, Wayno and Masha
Wayno enjoying his new favorite cheap Canadian swill, while chatting with Chief.
Relic tells the gruesome tale of his most recent highball pad missing ankle twist. Patrick sitting in the background, and John Howe talking to Scrubber and Luke and Nate.
Jim Brennan and Bruce Macdonald talk to Wayno and Masha
Before the party, we got on a treat.. Here is a shot of The Bastille and Rock on from our objective.
Edit: I wonder if you could sort out a better rap route and still clear the 'schrund? http://sendage.com/topos/dehydrated-on-dalwhinnie
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2012 - 12:08pm PT
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No time to tell the tale this morning, but here's a little teaser....
Kieran sets out on the Opal Wall
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2012 - 12:08pm PT
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you coming with Tami? ;)
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 12, 2012 - 01:01pm PT
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I really missed seeing you on the Ledge, Tami. Maybe next time.
It was fun watching Nina lead the Reacharound. With her deliberate karate-chop jams, she was a lesson in determination. Good job, Nina! Kyle waltzed the thing. What a great couple.
So, what is the deal with Bruce McD and his status on the Taco? Seems kinda weird, but hey, weird seems to be the rule around here sometimes.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2012 - 01:15pm PT
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Bruce seems to have designated the taco as not being worthy of his time anymore after the everest non sense. Cant say i blame him. This place is such a time vortex. ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2012 - 03:54am PT
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That's unfortunate Tami, I'll sort out my schedule and get back to you.. But i'm hoping it's going to include a lot of multi-pitch...
Back to the Opal Wall
Kieran puts in some pro on the first pitch of The Opal Wall.
First of all let me say, that it was a privilege for us to even touch this magnificent wall. The stone was so fresh that little crystals would break off when you even brushed it with your hand. You look up and realize that all these beautiful dihedrals you see are really giant plates just looming above your head.
Our Objective was Mercy Street, a 2 pitch 10b Kirt Sellers, Bill Noble FA. The second pitch is the main attraction of course. KM says “Power up the remorseless layback corner above. A real blockbuster for its grade.” When we got there the Dude Lips start was all but reclaimed and the initial Opal corner looked much more inviting.
Kieran styled the first pitch which makes an excellent 5.8ish outing on the Opal Wall, a good warm-up for Bastille/Rock On. There was some new cordalette on the anchor but an extra sling on the bolt couldn’t hurt.
Kieran rests at an amazing stance before leaving the corner
Just about to finish up after crossing over.
Kieran graciously teamed up with me for this effort and still managed to tron (top rope onsight) the second pitch with my Rebel on his back.
Me on the other hand, was another story. I was getting my layback on and after about my fourth piece of finger gear and twenty+ feet later I was getting pretty darn tired. I got pumped and ended up taking a couple times before I got through to the rest.
I was able to get decent locks in the hand size and good gear but when I got up to the small fist I started to realize that I wasn’t going to have much to fit, and started bumping my last two cams I started to get a little scared again. Pretty soon the omega had to be left behind and I bumped the blue up high. I managed to cram one that was way too big in the only place it would fit, and stepped over to the beautiful rest.
Then I followed the FA, but skipped their pins and got in a nice alien at the top. I would have liked to have done it in better style, but this thing is hard! Much harder than the Pillar IMO.
Kyle on the other hand, pulled off his usual magic…. After waiting almost two hours for me to get my team into position, he started out…
This first pitch was really fun!
Rick was happy to get a tow and provide a belay after Bastille/Rock On the day before….
Kyle remorselessly laybacking P2 10b?
Still going!
More later….. too much climbing, not enough editing.. naw… ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
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Morning bump! Anyone ever climb this rig? It was so awesome!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 13, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
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Anyone ever climb this rig?
In my dreams, yes. The thing I like about a lie-back is the sense of commitment. I like those shots looking down at Kyle. Cool perspective.
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Sep 13, 2012 - 02:40pm PT
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The thing I like about a lie-back is the sense of commitment. Funny, the thing I hate about a lie-back is the sense of commitment. I pull into one of those and I feel an immediate sense of desperation. Given my usual lack of power I need to get the weight off my arms and onto my feet so I can calmly assess the next 5 ft runout.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 13, 2012 - 03:00pm PT
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I'm just really curious about what the real old timers think. Somehow I bet if it happened a couple of decades ago there'd be a bit more expressed interest!
Tthe heli-rap-sport-bolted route on the west side of Dione is, strictly speaking, outside Tantalus Provincial Park. The boundary follows the watershed. Sill, there's a management plan for the park, from earlier this year, which says that that part of the park is in a "nature recreation zone", and that "The objective of this zone is to protect scenic values, cultural values and to provide for backcountry recreation opportunities in a largely undisturbed natural environment." The only nearly comparable park is the Bugaboos, where motorized drilling is prohibited, as are (mostly) helicopters.
(The management plan is in a link at http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/tantalus/);
Overall, the area is wilderness, and protecting that quality seems a high priority. A sport route with "convenience" bolts seems out of place. A minimum of bolts and other disturbances seems desirable.
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Gatineau Climber
Trad climber
Ottawa, Ontario
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Sep 13, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
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Hey all,
I've been a long time lurker on this thread. I love the history and stories... best thread on Supertopo!
I have a bit of time off work and will be in Squamish on Sunday and most likely for most of the following week. Anyone interested in climbing? I have a rack and am down for anything. Free, aid, wide, thin, slab, etc... just psyched to get back on Squamish granite again!
Danny
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 13, 2012 - 03:48pm PT
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So whats the beef?
Let a few bolts go in, and as sure as night follows day, there will soon be a gondola. That's the beef.
I think Anders should lead a party up there today and get those bolts out before the entire Tantalus Range slides down that slippery, bolt-protected slope toward gondolas, condominiums, and shopping malls.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 13, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
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So we agree, then?
Anyway, things like helicopter use, gondolas, "cliffwalks", and via ferratas may pose a greater threat to the values of the area. We're going to have to honestly come to grips with it some time - whether it's the Chief, Garibaldi Park, Tantalus Park, Manning Park, or any of many others, they're all parks within a few hours of a major population centre, and under increasing development pressure. (Whistler/Blackcomb has steadily eroded Garibaldi Park for 20+ years.) What's the right balance, given that those parks also represent values that attract visitors from around the world? How do we ensure that it's not just local and commercial interests making decisions, when the issues are larger?
Perhaps there'll be some discussion of this in the provincial election in the spring.
I'm ambivalent about the Haberl hut, even though it replaced an existing (sort of) structure, and even more so about the proposed Spearhead huts, which may be the thin edge of a wedge. But was a friend of Jim's, and know all the Haberls well.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 13, 2012 - 04:46pm PT
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The Warshington Pass area (and Mazama) is a lovely part of the world. The combination of a seasonal highway through the area, plus it being a national park and mostly wilderness, seems to keep excesses to a minimum. There's lots to do there.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 14, 2012 - 12:15am PT
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The absolute, hands-down, no-argument, gifted-beyond-belief climbing I ever personally witnessed was at Washington Pass on North Early Winter Spire. We'd climbed most of the West Face, and I had just joined Mari at her belay after we'd struggled up the 5.11 tips pitch when we heard a voice below us: "Do you mind if we climb through?"
We looked down and saw a climber starting the pitch we had just bumbled our way up, sort of hanging out as if he were on easy ground.
The hanging belay we were occupying was crowded with just the two of us, but we weren’t in a hurry, and he was obviously climbing ten times faster than us, so we said “Sure, go ahead.” We figured he'd crowd in beside us and bring up his partner, but no, he sauntered part way up the tips crack, but well below us he stepped out onto the face, bypassed our hanging stance, and then moved back into the crack well above us.
Using the crack on that pitch is 10d/11a. So what would the difficulty be if you abandoned it and headed out into no-man's land? I have no idea. Watching this guy (Viren Perumal, we found out much later), it looked like about 5.2. No holds. No pro. No problem. He simply floated by, chatting with us as if we were all sitting on the outdoor deck at our favorite pub. The rope dangling into the distance beneath him.
It had to be at least 12.hard. Maybe harder. And he didn't even notice. And it's not like he was familiar with the place. This was his first climb in the Northwest. His partner (and fiancee) followed the same path, not quite as easily as he did, but not really showing any signs of struggle either.
I've roped up with some pretty good climbers over the years. Climbers who climbed 5.14 before there was 5.15. Climbers who had set speed records on El Cap. But this was like having god draw back the curtain and say "Take a look at what it's really about."
And yeah, it's a beautiful place. A magical place. A place where you'll probably see a few other parties, but no crowds.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 14, 2012 - 01:28am PT
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Which left me wondering ghost, just what is it that you latte suckin' urban librals done to those poor folk in Darrington?
Now that is an interesting question. One I've been waiting years for someone to ask. But rather than answer straight out, I'll tell a story...
Somewhere around 2000 I pulled up stakes in Vancouver and moved to Golden. (The real Golden, in BC, not that fake one in Colorado.) I soon met some nice folks, and after I'd been there a while, one of them invited me to a party. Not so different from an afternoon BBQ party anywhere, and I was starting to feel kind of comfortable, when one of the locals approached me and started a conversation.
"Hey, good to meet you. You're from Vancouver, right?"
"That's right. I just moved here a few weeks ago."
"So why do all them as#@&%es in Vancouver want to take our guns away?"
Which is my way of saying it ain't no different down here than it is up where you are.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 14, 2012 - 01:36am PT
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Was that fine gentleman named Ward by any chance?
As far as I could ever tell, Ward has a functioning brain. So no, it wasn't Ward.
Although he once did offer the senior detective on the Vancouver Police Department drug squad a toke on a joint he'd just sparked. But that's an entirely different story, and doesn't reflect on his intelligence, cuz he had no idea...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 14, 2012 - 02:14am PT
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Trust me. I would die and you guys would have to stop.
And if I joined in, then the corpse beside yours would be mine. But if I weren't in some other country, with a house to paint this w/e, I'd plead for an invitation.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 14, 2012 - 02:45am PT
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Trust me. I would die and you guys would have to stop.
I hate it when that happens.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 14, 2012 - 09:38am PT
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Sep 14, 2012 - 09:49am PT
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What's that pic of Luke? NFR on D in the L? It don't look like no D in the L.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Sep 14, 2012 - 11:06am PT
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those look like bivy ledges compared to whats on D in the L..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2012 - 11:52am PT
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Chief- "Easy Street" Ya, certainly compared to that 12a you freed ;) Thanks for the story ;) You'll be glad to know certain traditions were properly honored.
Hahahaha.. Nice. Darn mountain bikers are taking over! ;)
Nice report on the pass Bruce. Thanks for that, excellent story.
What did you guys end up getting on last night Luke?
I did some more editing last night, here's a few more from Mercy Street.
Kyle looks for his next piece of gear
Gaining the first good stance
Having fun yet?
Trying to slot a big nut
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 14, 2012 - 12:24pm PT
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Should be quite obvious from the picture
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 14, 2012 - 12:42pm PT
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Cruel Shoes?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Sep 14, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
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Nooooo, not Cruel Shoes. Hamish might recognize it, hint hint.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Sep 14, 2012 - 01:14pm PT
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Genius Loci third pitch. Proud send lads! how was it?
K
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 14, 2012 - 01:44pm PT
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Haha, proud yes, send, not so much. Our main goal was the .10d dyke, and then possibly the Grinning Weasel.
Luke aided the .12 pitch, and then I attempted to free it. I only was able to make about half the moves though, and then had to aid through the crack cause Luke's gear was taking up all the holds.
I might have a better go at it with fresh shoes and cool weather, but that thing is HARD. It's an amazing pitch though.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 14, 2012 - 01:48pm PT
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Super fun, and exciting.
Our objective was to get across the dyke pitch and try out the grinning weasel but as light as we are we just weren't fast enough.
Were going back tomorrow with and earlier start, and two motivational shots of pure maple syrop.. One shot just didn't cut it yesterday...
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 14, 2012 - 01:51pm PT
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as light as we are
Yeah, yer light.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 14, 2012 - 02:06pm PT
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Listen to this guy (wayno) he came all the way up to Squamish and only got half a reach around..
What a lack of courtesy your from you ASs-basators...
Edited for wayno
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 14, 2012 - 02:14pm PT
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Hey, I never claimed I wasn't light. I had my doubts but I gave it a go anyway. I wish I was in better shape but I'm not. I'm working patiently on my comeback. It was good to meet you, Kid. I love your enthusiasm, but you need to work on your grammar and spelling. ;^)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2012 - 02:17pm PT
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Lol! ;)
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 14, 2012 - 02:58pm PT
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Oh burn.
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J-B
Social climber
Van-groovy
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Sep 14, 2012 - 03:11pm PT
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Another lurker drawn out by the photos - Mercy Street is an amazing pitch!
I remember it being a better size than the pillar; the business was hands and fist, none of that thin start or wide finish. My (meager) claim to fame is an uncredited photo in the McLane guidebook. MH and I were always surprised that Kevin couldn't be bothered to get in touch with Matt and ask who was in the photos...
Anyways, to keep the visuals going, here's a WA pass shot from last weekend.
J
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
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Wow Jay! Cool man! Matt's shot in the guide is what inspired me to put Mercy Street on my mental ticklist! His site is rad! so many cool pics, in fact yours is on there! http://www.matthewbuckle.net/climb/gallery/galleryphoto.php?photoname=sq432_jay_mercistreet
Just for that, I'm gonna post these early ;)
Kyle gets his "Karate Chop" jams going
Reach for the jam
Sweet pinch!
This thing never ends! Still going...
We Jammin!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 14, 2012 - 06:26pm PT
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Wow. We've been looking at pictures of the same pitch for like3 days...
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Sep 14, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
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quit griping and get your own pics up luke.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2012 - 08:03pm PT
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Ya go ahead, post up, i aint stoppin ya.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 14, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
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Here's a pic of some gal cranking up Hairpin. This party was just starting p1 when we were climbing p3 and were on p2 by the time we got back down to the base, allowing for the photo.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 15, 2012 - 12:30am PT
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Sent to Manitoba? You must have done something really ugly in your last life.
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MH2
climber
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Sep 15, 2012 - 01:31am PT
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Here's a pic of John Howe after pulling a hold on Hairpie, belayed by some gal named Penny.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 15, 2012 - 01:33am PT
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Kyle gets his "Karate Chop" jams going
Those look more like Tai-Chi jams.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Sep 15, 2012 - 02:51am PT
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Jim B asks "What are these peaks?"
Pic #1 is Mulvey Basin, in the Valhallas. Beauty spot.
Back L-R. Dag, Bat's Wing, Wolf's Ears, GIMLI!!!!!
Front L-R Gladsheim, Asgaard.
Pic #2 May be Mt.Cooper????????
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2012 - 03:52am PT
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There you go kid. Ask and ye shall receive.. Geuss I don't need to finish those mercy street photos right away...
Nice work Dru, Jim b Aka Dingus m, and mh2. John told me about that route at the party! Sounds fun!
Hey Hamie, you want go see what Jeff did with Crap Crags/Europa? Come on out before it starts raining again! ;)
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MH2
climber
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Sep 15, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
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Rope soloist on Polaris:
Rope soloist on or near Parallel Passages:
Second pitch of High Plains Drifter:
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Sep 16, 2012 - 12:49am PT
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BM
Jeff M and I discussed a 50th anniversary ascent for this summer, but I hate driving, and Squish is a long way. Thanks for the offer, I'll definitely contact you for a climb or a beer, or better for both, if I ever get back your way.
We finished the FA of a short 8 bolt slab route at Arrow Lake today. As I was clipping the 3rd bolt, my belayer said,"Your right leg is not in the leg loop." Fook me, old age sucks. Anyone else ever do that?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 16, 2012 - 12:54am PT
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Fook me, old age sucks. Anyone else ever do that?
They say I do that a lot, but I... Wait... What did you say? Leg poops? No way. I almost always make it to the toilet.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Sep 17, 2012 - 08:50am PT
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Holy crap. Sad news to report about Exasperator... The huge block before the first anchor fell out. Yikes. Scary. Holy crappppp.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 17, 2012 - 11:38am PT
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Did it fall, or was it pushed?
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Sep 17, 2012 - 12:12pm PT
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it was pushed, with minimal effort. although in my opinion intent out-weighs effort.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 17, 2012 - 12:59pm PT
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I always avoided pulling out on that block. The original (hanging) belay at the end of the first pitch of Exasperator was two bolts to the left of the block. There was a shrub hanging down from the block, but nothing you could belay off. So you were hanging in this awkward spot, 1 m below a decent belay perch. Didn't make sense. So in 1976/77 I removed the old bolts, and put in a new bolt belay above the block, where it is now. (Later, bigger bolts and rappel rings were placed.) I also removed as much of the shrub and its roots as I could, and had a go at removing the block. It was pretty clearly just sitting there, wedged in and perhaps held by some dirt and root fragments. But not ready to go, at least not without major engineering. I figured that one winter or another it would eventually come out.
Someone will now need to go up and dig/brush out the site, as there's probably lots of loose stuff in the cavity.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2012 - 02:28pm PT
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Goodbye Old Block. Rest In Peace! Oh, and THANKS FOR NOT KILLING US!!!! ;)
On the plus side, this shot is now a piece of history. ;)
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Sep 17, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
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I think Brownie broke the block, the basterd!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
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Naw it was probably Bmac in the dark ;)
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 17, 2012 - 03:09pm PT
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That other block's going to come out eventually too (might not be for a couple hundred years, but whatever) and then it'll be a flaring chimney/v-groove squirm to the anchor :D
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2012 - 04:44pm PT
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Who took this pic yesterday?
I'm guessing Brownie since it's such a nice shot. Does that invalidate your onsight? ;)
Nate trying to send the The Split Beaver 10b in the dying light.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Sep 17, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
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Someone will now need to go up and dig/brush out the site, as there's probably lots of loose stuff in the cavity.
Nah, its pretty good. I got out everything with my hands and the old root as a digging tool. It's just a bit dusty.
Two seasons ago I also took the questionable honors of pushing off the six foot long flake that you used to stand on at the top of the second pitch. It had been held on by that wee bonsai of a yellow cedar. Shortly after the tree died (I think by legitimate natural causes) the flake began to show how tenuous it's perch really was. It was a one handed tip-off.
K
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 19, 2012 - 12:26am PT
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The last photo could be Hozomeen, but that's a bit far south for your flight. The plane would have had to go south, almost southeast, from the Coquihalla to get such a view of the east side of Hozomeen, with the main summit to right and southwest peak to left.
Maybe it's Judge Howay, or perhaps Robie Reid? Both twin summits north of the Fraser, maybe more on your route?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 19, 2012 - 12:47am PT
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Looks like the south side of the Judge from somewhere over the Fraser. Kobus would know.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 19, 2012 - 01:01am PT
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So, was it a port or starboard window?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Sep 19, 2012 - 01:14am PT
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Hey Luke, We have all been waiting for the latest news from S.T.U.C.K. So like what's goin on? I want my membership card and lunchbox mailed out to me too.
For the time being let's watch Luke launch a wooden octopuss off a cliff.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 19, 2012 - 01:23am PT
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That would be starboard old chum
Then you were looking at the Judge
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 19, 2012 - 01:38am PT
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Relic, I got farking drilled grinding my way up the crack, bumping a #5, and gave up at two thirds (optimistic...) height and taking two wicked knee dragging slides.
Shorts were a bad idea.
Thankfully the Force was with Luke and he laybacked up to my high point and ran to the top like no one's business. Sort of.
The 11a pitch beforehand was miles easier, and this thing was substantially more difficult for me than the Angels Crest 10a or Borderlines 10a, or the things I've done at the Cirque. Felt like the last two meters of Split Beaver for 35 meters.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2012 - 02:47am PT
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Nice pics Jim! Glad you are back from Manitoba ;)
Thanks for the report Nick! It also makes for an excellent segway for this pic of Nate on the beav!
Nathan bumps his friend on The Split Beaver 10b
On Sunday we hit up the Little Smoke Bluffs and Kieran decided to try his luck on The Hangover after both Kyle and Rick decided not to lead it.
Kieran battles the opening move on The Hangover 10d
It didn't go down without a fight.. He fell quite a few times...
"Please let me clip this biner before I fall and hit the ground!"
Practicing his offwidth avoidance techniques ;)
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Sep 19, 2012 - 09:57am PT
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I'd suit up for battle fer sure for a pitch like that mate ie. long sleeves and pants. Yosemite Crack ain't no stroll on the beach. Not that I would know. That's just all pre-spray.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 19, 2012 - 11:25am PT
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Hangover is great, except for that loose chockstone in the wide part.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 19, 2012 - 11:34am PT
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Fishboy can you please post picture of your shreded legs. The people need to see what tantslus crack will do yo the unprepared!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 19, 2012 - 01:00pm PT
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Neither of those last airplane pics is of the Cascades.
As already ID'ed, the second one is of Judge Howay's south face.
The other pic is of Clarke-Recourse-Viennese and environs.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 19, 2012 - 02:15pm PT
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There is so much swelling and pressure down there it hurts to stand up.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 19, 2012 - 02:21pm PT
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Beavers Ripped My Flesh!
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 19, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
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With pants, chalk and no sun, I hope it will feel less desperate. Can't wait to jump on it again, fresh, without a days climbing behind me.
These are all excuses though, anyone with some technique should rumble up it.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sep 19, 2012 - 02:26pm PT
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Jim, I think the 3rd photo might be the Valhallas, but not 100% sure.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 19, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
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So I've been looking at this little wall with the glacier to its right for a while now...Is it The Castle or in that area? Any good walls out there?
Photo taken from the southern end of Valleycliff looking west.
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pazzo
climber
Vancouver BC
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Sep 19, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
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Fish Boy, are you sure that is a glacier to the right? The closest glaciers to Squamish are in the Tantalus, no? Your pic is looking west towards Echo Lake.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 19, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
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The Castle - one of the Touch and Go Towers - is more or less in bottom left of the photo, or a bit left of there, behind the trees. Not far above sea level, at the mouth of the river. The remnants of a volcanic plug, IIRC.
Paging Tricouni, who's climbed there.
The mountains in the photo are probably Mount Murchison (left) and Mount Lapworth (right), with part of Mount Conybeare behind. Echo Lake nestled in the cirque between them. None are quite glaciated, but all have typical granitic dome features.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2012 - 04:57pm PT
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Wow Nick! That's Crazy! I heard Robbins boots are the ticket on that one ;)
MH is right, definetly Echo Lake vicinity. Looks like it's down the valley a bit more on Google earth..
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sep 19, 2012 - 06:12pm PT
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The Touch and Go Towers from downtown Squamish. Memorial and Chockstone towers out of sight well to the right of photo, same with the Fang and Fortress. Not splitter granite, to put it mildly.
I've labelled these, because some long-time residents of Squamish (climbers, too) have no idea what's what on the west side of the river. From left to right, in case the labels are hard to read: the Castle, the Fiascos, and Teapot Tower. Castle is the most frequently climbed (and it's fun) and the Teapot has had but one ascent (1958 - Dick Culbert and John Owen). Many people have looked since, none have dared.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 19, 2012 - 06:51pm PT
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Jim the third pic sure looks like the Bugs to me. Howsers centre left. Then Crossed fish etc. Pigeonfeathers and southwest face of Snowpatch right of that. No?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 19, 2012 - 07:55pm PT
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Well, if you have to fly to and from Winnipeg, Jim definitely got a good view during the trip.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Sep 19, 2012 - 11:11pm PT
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Did you say squeamish?
Thank you so much for adding quality material to one of the longest actual climbing threads on the tacostand. I hope that's your hand after climbing the offwidth on Tantalus Wall.
Crisp fall days are upon us! It's time to go slab climbing!!!!!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 20, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
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The only similar stuff in that broad general vicinity that's south/west facing should be the south side of the Adamants group, but it doesn't look anything like that. I also considered it could be the Leaning Towers or the Gold Range but they don't look much like that (or anywhere near that glaciated).
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 20, 2012 - 01:31pm PT
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I'm pretty sure that's the Howsers, and that the "gendarme-size peak is probably Flattop.
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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Sep 20, 2012 - 02:44pm PT
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Good points. Photo is gone.
I hope that's your hand after climbing the offwidth on Tantalus Wall.
If that happens I'll surely enjoy friendly Canada and will make a point to shake your hand.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
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Ahh Zbrown, no worries, these guys just get a little protective of this thread sometimes, even with me! ;) It's our little haven from the typical supertopo troll offerings.
So thanks for the bumps, and if you are at all interested in climbing at squamish on supertopo this is the place to be!
Edit: not to say all the other climbing threads on this site aren't cool, i was speaking of the typical politard OT thread, which are sometimes very interesting but often get mired down in name calling and such.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Sep 20, 2012 - 08:30pm PT
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Thanks for pulling it zbrown. We canuks are generally a very friendly bunch, just not when someone tries to piss on the parade.
I'll gladly shake your bloodied hand after a day of off-width battling. Hopefully we'll meet out there someday.
Kris
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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Sep 20, 2012 - 11:54pm PT
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^if someone pissed on your parade, you better look down at your shoes, because it wasn't me. We Finlanders can be a very tenacious bunch. Try to develop a little humor in you life.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 20, 2012 - 11:59pm PT
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Bah. Humbug. Canadian climber pussies -- a bit of mangled flesh and they lose their lunch. That is why I left the country and moved to the manly US.
Put that photo up on a mtn biking thread, and everyone will be saying "Wow, that's cool. I split my leg open in a crash last week that was way worse. Check out this pic."
And on an oil rig forum no one would even notice.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 21, 2012 - 10:10am PT
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Oil rigs have forums? Does that mean some rig workers can actually read?
next you'll be telling me logging camps have their own forums
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 21, 2012 - 10:11am PT
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aside from penthouse forum that is, ba bump
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 21, 2012 - 11:10am PT
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Fishboy, heel toe cam below you in the crack with your outside leg. Wear jeans, try not to puke. Worked for me somehow. Only a sport climber would layback it :-)
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 21, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
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Wow! kudos for effort!!!!!
Who is going to be the first to don a 5.10 rubber inpregnated wetsuit designed for offwidths and chimneys.
First it was special rubber on shoes,then rubber knee pads, then rubber on the heel, then rubber on the upper toe not to mention the " The gobs of tape around my hands is to protect them for my hand modeling career not to make the crack easier." Tape is for people that haven't mastered crack climbing technique with JT the only place where soft climbers might occasionally need it.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 21, 2012 - 12:19pm PT
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David DO fukkoff .
Well, okay. But only because you said:
Please
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 21, 2012 - 01:41pm PT
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Hey Tami we could put a logo of your mouse (uh rat) on one of the butt cheeks chomping into my arse.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
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Harry I want one! ;) Can you make it breathable tho??
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 21, 2012 - 05:31pm PT
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Wouldn't it be easier to just spray a coating of rubber on the chimney?
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MH2
climber
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Sep 21, 2012 - 05:47pm PT
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Yup. Then you could peel it off and re-create it in the gym.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 21, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
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Mh2 now your onto something, plaster casting famous routes and rebuilding them indoors. What route at Squamish should we do first? I'll hold back Anders while you do the dirty work.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
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ooh ooh I want a Split Pillar at my house!! :) Maybe Jim can finally get rid of that pesky tree ;)
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 22, 2012 - 01:22am PT
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Maybe Jim can finally get rid of that pesky tree Red cedars growing in cliff locations are usually quite old like Jim B due to their slow growth. If that tree ever dies I'd love to count the rings.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2012 - 01:32am PT
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Hahaha... ;) what an excellent segway for a few more pictures of the Split Pillar's sister corner Mercy Street.
Kyle chalks up and prepares for the wide ahead
Getting a foot out on the rest
Layback to the anchor!
Completing the OnSight!
Rick seconding the beast!
Hate on mini Darryl... Hate on.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 22, 2012 - 01:51am PT
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Tami here are some prototypes for the BRHHFBC suit. The last one seems the most interesting as it's inflatable so at the last second before your about to pitch out of pipeline you simple inflate. Jim and Bruce don't need this one as they are already somewhat inflated.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 22, 2012 - 01:54am PT
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Mike that looks long and sustained, how hard is it and where is it?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2012 - 02:00am PT
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It's 67m for both pitches. The top pitch is easily 40+ and goes at 10b. The Opal wall is in the south gully opposite Rock On and is currently dry, which is very unusual, especially for September Harry!
Scroll back a few pages for more pics!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 22, 2012 - 10:31am PT
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I thought that looked like the Opal but why did I not know about that route. How old is it?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Sep 22, 2012 - 10:56am PT
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Gotta get me one of those black suits for biking to keep the wounds away.
Three of us old guys are going to Jack The Ripper today so we'll take three suits please. Hope they're not too hot on the uphill...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2012 - 01:31pm PT
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Harry, Kirt sellers, and Bill Noble put it up in 86. Dunno why you missed it? Maybe because the opal seeps like mad and typically never dries out?
Hamish sounds like a good idea but watch the chaffing! ;)
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Sep 23, 2012 - 02:58am PT
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Been away for a few, so I'm a bit behind. As several have already said, Jim B's pic #3 is indeed the Bugs.
L-R. Bill's Pass, Wallace [in the Vowells],Howsers, Pigeon, Bugaboo [centre, in the sun], Snowpatch partially hidden by Marmolata, Brenta and Northpost.
The Vowells also offer great climbing, with a longer approach, but usually less people. CMH sometimes visits Centre Peak, on heliicopter day-trips from Bobbie Burns.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Sep 23, 2012 - 03:15am PT
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Here's a pic from Mt. Taurus.
Left side and right front is the Bugs. Back right is the Vowells. Way, way back on the left is Conrad.
The black rock ridge in the foreground is just a bunch of unnamed crap!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Sep 23, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
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A friend of mine found a climber's pack on hwy. 99, close to Porteau. Contact me and I'll forward the info.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
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Hamie- nice work. Thanks.
Hamish- maybe post it on squamish climbing too?
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 23, 2012 - 07:41pm PT
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Here's a couple of shots from Flight Simulator's 2nd pitch, 11d fingers. Thanks to a wee epic afterwards, I missed out on the event of the year, the Kid's engagement party.
Entering the corner via some technical moves\
Stemming rest, not much respite however...
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chris155
climber
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Sep 23, 2012 - 08:18pm PT
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_EDIT: Very cool, Bruce. Who was behind it? North Face? Patagonia? Personal? Did you fly in, or walk in?
You have to love multi-pitch sport routes!_
Nope- Spancered by Christie-images.com :)
I had some owed hrs so made sense to use em up close to home in the Tantalus.
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MH2
climber
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Sep 23, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
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Very cool, Fish Boy. Nice understated images.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 24, 2012 - 02:34am PT
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1st pitch of Flight Simulator, Danny styling it
Pulling corner in Supernatural 1st pitch
Snake
The Black Tusk, up with the Half Dome Cables with "I can't believe non climbers do this"
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2012 - 03:12am PT
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Nice work Fish Boy! Sweet pics. Thanks for that. Wanna get out next weekend??
I saw this on SquamishClimbing.com and thought i would cross post it for Conny since it speaks of our discussion of the route "Dehydrated on Dalwhinnie" on Mt Dione, and addresses several frequent posters here.
Nice to hear you got up there Bruce and Co. If only the whole route was like the first or top 4 pitches. I just got back from a few weeks of travel and came across the discussion here and on SuperTopo.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1618401&tn=3740
It looks like there were a few questions in that discussion that I could possibly clear up. First though, I would like to say thanks to those who support the idea of this route and the others who have abstained from chopping it so far. Ten years ago Jamie and I did a route that was similar in grade to this ground up following dirty crack systems on the west face of the mountain. I’m pretty sure it has not and probably won’t be repeated any time soon.
Extra Bolts
Most of the times I have been up in the Tantalus I have only brought a few pieces of gear, with the goal of climbing moderate routes. The extra bolts on D on D are so that you can still go into the range with the small alpine rack…just bringing an extra half dozen draws, shoes and chalk.
I agree that a lot of the bolts are not needed. In fact due to a tactical error while we were up there we actually did the first ascent of the first 5 pitches ground up with a rack that consisted of two shoulder slings, two cordelettes and a #4 camalot. I also think it would have been pretty easy to pull our ropes and climb the upper face following natural features and protecting it with the gear we brought.
Instead, we bolted the climb so that others could enjoy it. We were looking for a “multipitch 5.10 sport climb”. In true Euro style it ended up at 11b, 10c obl. I too think it might be more aesthetic with less bolts…but I think less people would get on it. We skipped many of the bolts on the FA. Some bolts are there solely as “trail markers”, because we forgot to bring reflective orange diamonds. I agree that I would feel a little vulnerable being up there without any rack other than draws but I guess if things went really sideways and you chopped a rope you could still get off by going down bolt to bolt.
The one thing I do feel bad about is putting an anchor in the middle of the SW buttress route. We spent a few hours at this point hiding from the sun and talked about this anchor at large. We bolted it considering the following:
1. It provides a rap station for all the routes on the face as well as the couloir. If someone comes down the couloir and finds the bergschrund impassable you can now walk out the ledge behind the towers to this anchor and do 3 rappels (60m rope) down around the schrund.
2. Natural rappel anchors are available at this point but two bolts are less unsightly than a mess of tat. IMO!
3. The route up to this point also provides an alternate start to the SW Buttress as well as a bunch of the west face routes when the schrund is impassable.
4. The bolt anchor is in a more user friendly position than the original anchor on the SW Buttress which is at feet level over an edge in boulders or it can be avoided if climbing through.
Please feel free to chop this anchor if you feel it preserves the SW Buttress route…which is a great climb!
Parks
We were conscious of the park and I had looked through the publicly available management strategy before we went up there. The route was, as we could see, outside the park and nowhere was their mention of a power drill ban.
If you wanted you could actually land at the big windscoop just south of the base of the couloir about 15 minutes from the base of the route. This would be no worse than landing at the base of the west face of Dione or the SW flank of Mt Currie as many do every winter. I strongly advise against this as you will likely land on top of someone and ruin their day. The Heli companies are very reluctant to land here anyway because of an old agreement with Parks.
Climbing with boots and crampons
It is a bummer having to bring the boots up the route. We did look around for a rappel option, the best of which looked like the buttress to the south of the couloir. In the end we felt the current rappel route down the Y gully further south on the ridge was the safest option. On the weekend we did it, it was warm enough that two days in a row we did not have to bring up crampons, 5.tennies were fine.
As we had a drill up there we also thought about replacing all the sling and tat rappel station on both the upper part of regular SE Ridge route and the gully descent. After a lot of debate we only added one rap anchor in the middle of the normal rappel line. Contrary to the park mandate we left the ugly tat anchors because we felt that they were a lot easier to see than a pair of bolts and chain…thus a safety issue. Imagine coming down at night as I know many have and missing a set of bolts!
Opinions and comments
Mighty Hiker, one day I will call you when a seat becomes available and invite you on one my of my heli hiking adventures. You really gotta try it! You’ll love it. I’m sure we can get you to pose for the odd photo too. I’m also all for via ferratas and gondolas….it is all about location, location, location. Standing in Squamish or at the Haberl hut you can’t see the bolts on Dione!
I did Infinite Bliss last year and it was brilliant. I only wish there was a walk off. Nobody would ever go to this face if it wasn’t sport bolted (note there are several pitches with no bolts or gear).We spent as much time rappelling the 2500ft face as we did climbing. I have an updated topo of it if anyone is interested.
GF, in 2002(?) on the west face we climbed 6 pitches of rock left of the lower west face couloir, which put us on top of the left (north) fork of the chute. We then followed the buttress straight up. It was about 300m north of your line. On another note , we read in the hut log that Madaloni and company freed the Zwecker/Spagnut variation to your route at 11b a couple of years ago.
Cheers
C
I for one feel that since the FA decided that was the style of climb they would like to put up it should be left alone.
On another note, a friend told me today that he clipped Bruce's bolt on YPLS and then down climbed to enter the chimney.... Hmmm.... He also told me that someone left a present at the first belay and it was none too pleasant.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 24, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
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Did your friend happen to find a black toque at the top with a mouse hole in it, cuz that's mine and I want it back..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
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I asked Luke, but no luck. We might have to back up there on a rescue mission. Hey Bruce Kay you interested?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Sep 24, 2012 - 09:10pm PT
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It's booty Luke. Give up all hope.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
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Luke let's go find it!
Can't post the name for this one so pop quiz, what is it?
Nate on the Beav again..
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 26, 2012 - 10:50pm PT
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That solid stem friend could be of cultural significance, I believe it once belonged to the Kindree family, I insist you stop using it immediately and submit it to Anders @ Squamish History And Recovery of Tat Program
A.k.A.
The SHART Pro.
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MH2
climber
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Sep 26, 2012 - 11:18pm PT
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Big Mike,
That looks like a peregrine perch to climber's left.
At least it was before the area was deforested.
edit:
Will Stanhope was in the area, freeing up Cannabis Wall, but the image is mislabeled. That is Lindsay E on Freeway.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 26, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
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Sweet pics Andy. Something tells me you're right on the money.
Sorry for picking on you Anders, I get carried away with pointless acronym sometimes...
My intentions were not for you to be the butt of my shitty joke, rather a joke about shitty butts, that just happened to involve you, since you are the history professional
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2012 - 12:46am PT
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Andy I do believe you are correct. Cool pics indeed. It is an excellent pitch, as a result of mr Frimers diligent cleaning.
Don't worry, it seems the falcons were the ones who got the last laugh this spring when they took up residence on the 10c corner directly above the flats. They shut down that real estate for 3 months this summer! ;)
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 27, 2012 - 12:50am PT
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Yeah Mike, I'm up for a climb....
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 27, 2012 - 12:59am PT
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Cool look problem Biotch!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Sep 27, 2012 - 02:53am PT
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Hmm, I really don't know where Israel found that boulder at Shannon Falls. Cool, thanks for the video post.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Sep 27, 2012 - 03:00am PT
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Just curious...
Has anyone in this world climbed Tattered Tights before? I think it might just be the most totally way out there obscura climbing possible.
Could be a mission for S.T.U.C.K.
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MH2
climber
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Sep 27, 2012 - 11:21am PT
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Beautiful work, ßîØTÇH.
Sure, tag on Tattered Tights after Parallel Passages.
No, I'm not worried about the falcons.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 27, 2012 - 04:08pm PT
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Mighty Hiker, one day I will call you when a seat becomes available and invite you on one my of my heli hiking adventures. You really gotta try it! You’ll love it. I’m sure we can get you to pose for the odd photo too. I’m also all for via ferratas and gondolas….it is all about location, location, location. Standing in Squamish or at the Haberl hut you can’t see the bolts on Dione!
Having spent several hundred hours in helicopters, almost all for work, I'll pass. I'm also a firm believer in appropriateness, and to me, if something can be reached in a day on foot, that's how I'll do it. Even if it might be more fun or 'convenient' to use a helicopter and climb an out of place bolted route. Sorry, but we need to protect what we have, not just do whatever we feel like. The developers and commercial interests usually don't care, but we know better.
If people want an experience "just like the Alps", they can go there for it.
As for the posing, someone took a photo of me yesterday, litter stick and garbage bag in hand, with my sunhat. Will that do?
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roadman
climber
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Sep 27, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
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Having spent several hundred hours in helicopters, almost all for work, I'll pass. I'm also a firm believer in appropriateness, and to me, if something can be reached in a day on foot, that's how I'll do it. Even if it might be more fun or 'convenient' to use a helicopter and climb an out of place bolted route. Sorry, but we need to protect what we have, not just do whatever we feel like. The developers and commercial interests usually don't care, but we know better.
If people want an experience "just like the Alps", they can go there for it.
As for the posing, someone took a photo of me yesterday, litter stick and garbage bag in hand, with my sunhat. Will that do?
Mighty,
Well said! Could not agree more. This here folks, will never be the alps. And, if you try to make it something it's not, you'll just end up with some B-movie version of Disneyland.
I know I'm in the minority, but I think the coolest things on this earth are the wildest, hardest to get to and full of mystery. Most folks around me now seem to be ok with paving our approaches and shaving down our mountains to fit their personal comfort level.
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MH2
climber
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Sep 27, 2012 - 05:14pm PT
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thekidcormier,
That is a Kaaaww-Tiiinnnngingly good TR on Strange Brew/Cannabis.
near in time and space to
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 27, 2012 - 09:03pm PT
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Looks like midnight run to me Andy. Who's the climbers?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Sep 27, 2012 - 10:18pm PT
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Diesel Overhang looks sooooooo cool.
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MH2
climber
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Sep 28, 2012 - 12:31am PT
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Yes, Midnight Run most likely. I think the guy in the cap is Marc-André.
The other I'm not sure.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 28, 2012 - 02:02am PT
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Definitely Tony and Marc Andre!
Tony looks like wolverine.
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Sep 28, 2012 - 10:40am PT
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tony looks like a young johnny dawes in that photo. celebrity climber spotting!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2012 - 05:46pm PT
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Really nice shots Andy thanks. Wolverine indeed ;)
Luke- Very descriptive trip report. Your best read yet.
Happy Birthday Nathan!!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2012 - 01:12am PT
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Here's another shot from that day, Fish Boy actually caught this can at Exasperalooza and threw it back at the crowd. Although it was impressive, it probably didn't help his time.
I love crack. What can I say? I geuss I'm just a crack addict...
V6 Highball for Biotch!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Just spent a few days last week at Squamish, and it was my first time there without rain. I actually got to climb, and am starting to get what all the hype's about. What an awesome place!
Got to spend the evening watching the Reel Rock 7 films, as well, down at the Howe Sound Brewery.
And Exasperator...that's the kind of finger crack I have dreams about. So stinkin' fun!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2012 - 06:16pm PT
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Thanks for the report mooser! I was hoping we might hear from you after i saw your post on mike m's thread. This summer has been amazing! Usually we go climbing when ever it's dry out, but this summer i had to take rest days on sunny days too because i was so tired from climbing and working all the time!
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Hi Big Mike - You bet! I'm not a fan of the PNW rainfall, but I really can't complain about things after mid-July this year. The weather has been absolutely stellar, and the fires that smoked out Snow Creek Wall in Leavenworth compelled me to give Squamish another shot--given the great weather. I can't believe what a stellar place it is. You have it good!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
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I am very fortunate to live in one of the best places in the world IMHO. World class climbing, snowboarding/skiing, snowmobiling, kite boarding, mountain biking, hiking, fishing, hunting..... you name it... All within 45 mins!!!!
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MH2
climber
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you name it
Steep river-running.
Glad you had a good time, mooser.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2012 - 09:42pm PT
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yeah.. killer kayaking and rafting too.. canyoneering... only thing we really don't have is surfing... gotta go to the island for that..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2012 - 10:01pm PT
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Hey Mooser it looked like you had Diedre all to yourselves?? That's the Squamish equivalent to being the only party on Snake Dike!!!
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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It felt like we had it to ourselves, though there were two parties ahead of us (which slowed us down some, but hey...what's not to love about hanging around in that place??), and one party about two pitches behind us.
We did Exasperator after Diedre, and meant to do Rock On the next morning. Unfortunately, the forecast was 80% for rain, so we opted to do a bunch of single pitch stuff at Smoke Bluffs from which we could bail more quickly. Also fun!
And I don't know how you guys feel about the Squamish Select guide, but from my vantage point, it's one of the nicest guidebooks on my shelf. Really well done.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Where in the world is RYAND!
If you're out there, please regale us with stories and photos of your trip to Uhmerika, with pictures please and anecdotes involving close calls with the state troopers and dangerous mantels at the top of massive highballs and long Tuolumne solos and topless California babes with ice cold refreshments.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Hi Luke, just got in the other night. Have a shlt load of photos & will put up a TR soon as there is no need to taint this thread with tales of moss free granite. Nice to see the weather has been awesome for you guys. Ugggghhhhhh back to reality.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
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Nice to hear from you Ryan! Sounds like you had lots of fun. Looking forward to your tr.
Remember, reality is what you make of it! ;)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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good point Mike, thanks.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Big mike you are so wise. You are like a lanky Buddha with scraggly hair. :D
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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What would Baldwin and Cooper think?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2012 - 12:30am PT
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They thought, "Darn that wall looks cool, and no one's climbed it yet?"
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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I'm sure they wouldn't have much concern so long as people don't start fly boarding at the spit.
Cool photo!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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What would Baldwin and Cooper think?
"Add another bolt"
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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"Let's stay up here another day so the tourists spend some more money".
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2012 - 04:27pm PT
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"Let's stay up here another day so the tourists spend some more money".
LOL good one!!
Took a few pics last weekend on Genesis 10a, the old murrin classic.
Rick on the scariest part of the climb... ;)
Such a beautiful thin crack with excellent face holds.
One stout 10a......
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sick photos mike!
Genesis is rad
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2012 - 05:19pm PT
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Thanks buddy! When are you headed to the valley?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Not sure if I'm gonna go, might go to sasquacchuwan instead
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nice photos! That's a great zone, met Luke & Nathan there once so I hold it dear to my heart, speaking of- it sounds like you have quite the dilemma there over where to go Luke???
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Off for a stint in the uranium mines? Lotsa granite in Sask. Too bad it's all a mile underground.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Lotsa granite in Sask. Too bad it's all a mile underground.
Nah. Total myth. There's more granite in Sask than there is in California. And it's not underground. It just is the ground in the northern part of that province. But it's flat. It doesn't rise up the way you want it to.
I guided (paddling) in northern Sask when I was young. The whole place is nothing but granite. Precambrian Shield. Nothing higher than a few feet though.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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BM. Nice to hear that people still climb Genesis. Thanks to Jeremy F for some remedial work. I think that we may have used a pin or two on the FA. maybe even three or.......LOL!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Heading to the Valley next week with Big Mike. We are flying out of Seattle to Sacramento on Oct 13th 'cuz we are too light to drive. Was wondering if anyone had a free parking spot somewhat nearish to Seatac airport??? :) Mr. Ghost or Silver perhaps?
It would be swell.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Hey Relic, you and Mike can park at my place and you can take the Light Rail to the airport or I can give you a ride if I'm not working. Send me an email.
Wayno.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Wayno is THE MAN!
Wish I could comer to the valley with yas but I got sasquach hunting priorities.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Was wondering if anyone had a free parking spot somewhat nearish to Seatac airport???
You're welcome to park at our place, and I'll be happy to get you to the port if I'm in town. What time is your flight?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Wayno beat ya to it Ghost, but thanks! Wayno is the man. Our flight is early 8:25am. So we gotta leave Vancouver friggin in the middle of the night.... Uggh.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Wayno beat ya to it Ghost, but thanks!
Okay. But if Wayne can't handle the driving-to-the-airport-at-06:30 thing, just let me know -- I'm not sure he even knows that 6:30 comes twice in the day.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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How long does it take to get from Vancouver to Seattle these days in the weeee hours of the night? 3:00am sounds like it might be our leave time. Ffffffffffuuuuuuuukkkkkkkk.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Don't forget to pack your sunday whites to sneak into the all u can eat buffet with. You look too conspicuous dressed as a knuckle dragging climber.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Uuuuuuggggghhhhhh. My name's Relic. I just booked two weeks off work at the drop of a hat to go on a climbing trip. BUT! My flight requires me to leave really early. Guess I need something to complain about.
Way to rub it in ya bastard.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2012 - 08:23pm PT
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Hahahaha :) that's awesome! Thanks for the offer Wayno that's cool! And David also. Im so stoked! I almost don't believe it yet!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Next year Nathan, save your pennies...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2012 - 11:40pm PT
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Ya nate, wish you were comin bud!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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How long does it take to get from Vancouver to Seattle these days in the weeee hours of the night?
Depending on what part of Vancouver you're coming from, and what part of Seattle you're headed for, the absolute best time you can count on is about two hours and forty-five minutes. Yeah, you might make it in two-and-a-half, but then you also might get held up for a while at the border because some Customs & Border Protection Officer doesn't like the way you look.
The safe bet, in the wee hours, is to allow three hours from the time you're both actually in the car and driving, to the time you've parked the car at Wayne's place or mine. After that, it depends. If one of us is driving you, it's about 20 minutes to the airport. If you're taking the light rail at O-dark:thirty, who knows? You want to be at the airport by 07:00, and you may want half an hour for coffee and the transfer from your car to Wayne's or mine. So calculate backwards from there.
To give yourself plenty of cushion, hit the road at about 03:00. Gets you here at 06:00. Wayne or I feeds you coffee while you shuffle bags, and we head for the airport at 06:30, arriving just before 07:00.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Y'all are totally light! Can't DRIVE to Yosemite from Vancouver? Try hitchhiking in the rain, or taking the bus!
Posted in boredom from beautiful downtown Manteca, as I start the usual post-FaceLift drive home, with plans to visit and interview 60s-era climbers in Sonoma and Seattle, and maybe elsewhere.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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come down the nite before, get shitfaced/baked
Yes, you guys are welcome to come down the night before. We have an extra bedroom and a couch and usually beer on tap. I get home from work around ten pm.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2012 - 01:54am PT
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Now that, sounds like an excellent plan! Thanks for the broad hint there tami! Party at wayno's house!! ;)
Anders we are light. We decided that 2 extra days in the valley was way better than driving 40 hours. Relic only has limited time so It just seemed easier and ends up being not much more expensive. More climbing = better in my book.
I know its not old school and i kinda wish we were doing the drive with lots more time to climb along the way, but it's not to be..
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Hey Anders, if you are talking to the 10-years-after guys, don't forget to grill them about RC.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Sounds good. Mrs. Wayno has approved. Boris will dig it.
Luke, are you going with BmacD to sniff out our distant cousins? Use the Force. Watch the Star Wars movie with Yoda and forget whatever you already know and think with your heart and you shall find what you seek. Just remember, that if it stinks, you are getting close.;)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Don't worry about getting tooled on the way down, I find the Canadian border guards are usually bigger dicks when coming home for some reason, at least that was my thought when they were ripping my car apart one time after a trip to red rocks for no reason.
On the way down last month the US guy was petting my dog :-)
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mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
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Mighty-did you get that ancient wooden wedge I left for you with Tom??
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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We may be LIGHT but I have never flown anywhere on a climbing trip, so I'm excited. It's turning out to be surprisingly cheap and easy thanks to Wayno and Ghost offering to help. Staying down there will be sweet the night before, thanks Wayno.
I've never been tooled hard at the Peace Arch, not too worried. The only tooling I think we will feel is by check-in baggage clerks, a vicious bunch they are. Oh and of course, the Park Rangers... they been toolin' me there every chance they get.
RyanD, haha yup. When you are wondering where Relic has disappeared to, odds are I'll be in the C4 boulders or Buttermilks!
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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So who was that on Negro Lesbian the other day? Finish or bail?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2012 - 01:38pm PT
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Sorry Nick, we sidetracked a perfectly good Squamish thread with all this valley talk.... Oh well, we still need another 1008 messages to reach Rolf's prophecy anyways!
Thanks for the hospitality Wayno and the offer Dave! That's huge! Good thing I managed to get you out cragging eh Wayne? ;)
So who was on Negro Lesbian? Post up!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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I snuck out work yesterday to check the progress on NL. Our unidentified friend was back at the belay he was seen trying to fix from the night prior and appeared as tho he was preparing to RETREAT!
Who ever you are: post up.
Speaking of which I might as well link my report of my solo on strange brew(a.k.a. Light weight lane) http://thekidcormier.blogspot.ca/
Wayno: I'm not going with Bruce. Hahah he only wants to take pictures of their foot prints I wanna shoot one and make a nice one piece suite :D
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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All good Mike, stoke is stoke is stoke. I love the Valley, can't wait to hear your stories. Do Central Pillar of Frenzy, you'll have a blast.
I'd like to see how they retreated from where they were. I only went and looked at night, but it seemed they were past they point of an easy descent.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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I wanna shoot one and make a nice one piece suite
You'd look better in a two piece, Lukey.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
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It didn’t sound like my voice but I figured it must have been me as I watched singular crystals of granite join and smear into streaks, and calmly observed my acceleration. It was quite interesting really; quiet yet violent, and as elegant as a ballet dancer gravity slipped it’s tendrils around me and pulled. I became aware that I was in fact falling and that I had been for a while, when suddenly the static reality I have come to know over the years returned. I looked down to find Nathan a few meters below me....
Sick writeup Kieran!! Thanks!
Tami- Unfortunately I don't forsee myself climbing much with Luke, as he is an aids climber these days. He will be up on the captain with bigwall Doug while Relic I and entertain Aislin.... She certainly seems happy to have someone to climb with rather than sit in the valley by herself all week.
While three is often a crowd, it's a great number to free up the cameraman!!
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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That was me on Negro Lesbian.Not much to say other than it beat me down! Couldn't get past a section of heads through the roof of the 4th pitch. Blew out a small circlehead and took a big lob in the dark. Thank god for screamers is all I can say...Tried it again the next day but I was rattled and my heading skills weren't good enough to get anything to stick Didn't have anything to remove the fixed mank with either.It's a great route though, pretty cool to be swinging around in those roofs. Be sure to bringa hand drill and butterknife if you want to go for it, I had to re drill some blown out batholes at the top of the 3rd . I'll be back for it after a bit more experience....
P.s Fish Boy, I owe you beer... Give me a shout with when and where I can settle the debt! Will be around Squamish until mid next week.
P.p.s rapping from the top of the 3rd is okay. You hit the slab about 4m right of the anchors at the top of the 2nd. Then there's a bolted rap station about 50m straight down from the anchor at the top of the 2nd. Rapping through those trees with a haulbag was so miserable it was kind of fun...
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The Call Of K2 Lou
climber
Squamish
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Four thousand (mostly on topic) posts. Too cool. Keep 'em coming!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2012 - 10:36pm PT
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Nice work Paul! Thanks for the report, and the bump. I'll take # 4000!!!!! Only one thousand more people! ;)
Edit Lou beat me to it! Nice work! :)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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I knew it was you up there Paul! Did you see me creeping? Nice try dude, you made it higher then me and fishboy have so far. Pretty late start on Thursday night eh?
You're developing a reputation for blowing out copper heads..
Good on ya for trying tho. Does any one know it it's been successfully solo'd before?
P.S. epic blog post kieran.
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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Thought I saw a couple of people playing the "flash the torch" game alright! Yeah, late start on the 4th because I screwed up a bit at the top of the 3rd.got to within one bathole of the anchors then the very last one was blown out and I'd forgotten the drill at the bag. Had to back aid the roof, rap down, get the drill, jug up, re aid the roof and fix the hole. Lost a lot of time.Underestimated the 4th as it was so short. One tip for the top of the 3rd, look for hidden rivets....Managed to miss it and traverse about 30 feet left to some old fixed gear at the edge of the roof and pop an old angle.All in all a failure, but an exciting failure and a lot learned.
As for heads....I hate the little buggers! They lure you in, hold for long enough for you to start thinking about the next piece, then BOOM and you're airborne! Bastards.... You guys heading to the valley soon? I'm driving down there from squam next week.Would be nice to put some faces to names after lurking this thread so much!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 12:39am PT
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Ya Paul,
We will be there this weekend!!!
WOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOOO!!!
SEE YA IN THE DITCH!!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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So Luke, are you going to the Valley or hunting for bigfoot? Do you still need the ...?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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"Flight is lite. Go Greyhound!"
Kids these days.
After you warm up on Bishop's Terrace, a classic which Aislin will enjoy, head over to Church Bowl Terrace [not so classic], if it's still in the book. Full TR with pix required.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Hey Paul, rad work! I've been looking at Negro Lesbian as the wall I really want to do for a year now. Luke and I bailed thanks to snow and perhaps too much sh#t. I'd jump back on it in a flash.
Monday night we should go to my mates spot down near the river. There are three other Irish lads too....we'll be in touch, wanna hear about those roof pitches....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 02:27am PT
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Hamie- Would you rather sit on a bus/honda fit? or climb?? I know which one I want to do... Hell maybe i'll get some cool dingus style pics!
Full TR with pix required. Duh.. was thinking I might get a few out of this trip!! Maybe even get an Iphone so I can do updates from the ditch!
Don't LOSE YER HEAD on the Hound!!!!!!
HAHAHHAHAHAHA... ROFLOL (rolling on floor laughing out loud!)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Yes wayno, I still NEED the...!!!!
I'll email you some details
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MH2
climber
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Good wishes on the trip south! A car and/or a bike are good to have in The Park but can be done without.
Hey, Anders, interview me. I'm a 60s-era climber. Recently, too. 1964 to be specific.
We saw a light up on the wall on the trek back to the car that was probably Paul B.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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I got us a cheap deal on a rental car so all is well. I used to love driving down there but now I'm old and cranky.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Hey Tami
"Go Greyhound, for that 'head' start".
It should take less than a week each way. After resting up for a while, you will have at least one full day to enjoy the sights in the valley, and take some pix, before heading home. A big advantage of bus travel is that you won't need to drag all that climbing junk down there with you.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 02:12pm PT
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Ooooohhhh... The Rostrum..... I'm skeeerd! ;) Well, Perry did say I've already climbed a mini version of it.... Sounds like fun! Freeclimbing will definitely be the focus but I'll be bringing the pocket etrier just in case....
Arrowhead looks cool! I dunno if I can convince Relic to walk that far, maybe me and Ais will ditch him at the camp 4 boulders that day ;)
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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The looming cliffs of the Valley can seem like a prison if you don't make it to the rim. Get that out of the way first and your whole perspective will be more complete. The long routes to the rim are some of the best things that the Valley has to offer. the less time on the floor, the better. Live Upfull.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 03:30pm PT
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Well we don't leave till Friday so not much chance of that... Hackuweather forecast looks promising, but who knows. We do have a car with unlimited miles on it. Maybe we'll go visit cosmic in josh if things turn for the worse... Thanks for the pics, looks awesome!! I have to get you your shoes back sir. I'll send you a pm and try to get it done before we leave.
Andy- What is that climb!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 04:53pm PT
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Ya I saw that it looks like it's taking a turn for the worse around here.... I love it when a good plan comes together!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Anyone here enjoy checking out the waterfalls around Squamish? A mate and I found the Upper Mamquam falls yesterday and they were stunning! I've been looking on the world waterfall database and there are several falls around here there are worth exploring. Some nice ones on the Skookum, Ring Creek etc...
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MH2
climber
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The route in the picture is intended to be the North North Arete. It is hard to be sure that you are on that route until the very last pitch. I'd done it before but that didn't help. However, the description in McLane 2005 mentions a yew tree, which I believe is the tree the rope runs past.
That was the first and last time we felt pretty sure we were on the climb.
We had gone up Parallel Passages to Astro Ledge and met Paul Cordy. When he heard we were planning to do North North Arete, he recommended an alternate finish.
Just above the yew tree we left North North Arete, if that is what we were on, and found the variation Paul had suggested.
(photo courtesy of Andy Traslin)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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A hellmutt ain't gonna do much if a log like that thunks ya in the head from a couple hundred meters up.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Well it's good to see that MH2 is getting after it still in Squamish, well done sir. Cool photos!
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MH2
climber
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A hellmutt ain't gonna do much if a log like that thunks ya in the head from a couple hundred meters up.
And p'rhaps even a tank wouldn't save ya from the rebar. New chapters in the Book of Squamish Stories are being written on the North Walls. Or maybe soon there will be condos for sale?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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How was Parrallel passages Andy??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 11:33pm PT
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North North eh? haven't ventured up that one yet... Damn did that log ever bounce! It's allways handy to have a chainsaw up there eh ;)? Looks like things are happening on the north walls for sure..
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MH2
climber
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In the part below Astro Ledge Parallel Passages runs through blasted ground. There is grit and an air of large-scale looseness. Whether from the big rockfall a few years ago or a testament to the huge energy of Paul Cordy, I don't know. I happen to like the battle-zone feel.
Above Astro Ledge, Parallel Passages is a great addition to the North Walls for the 5.10 A0 climber. Has great climbing, a wild feel, and delivers you to the 4th summit.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Don: Yes, I got the present that you left for me with Tom - he put it in my tent. Thanks!
Glenn: Saw Chris Jones and Alex Bertulis, but not the TYA folk this time.
Andy: Wow! I didn't know you were climbing at Squamish in 1964. How did you deal with the p'terodactyls? Anyway, let me know if you want the original route description for North North Arete - you know you're on route if you go through a "gap" in the arte, with two boulders wedged in, which you sort of chimney around. The second ascent party did the Chlorophyll Variation, and there seem to be others. Staying just left of the 'crest' of the arete is the ticket.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Thanks Andy, great photos too as always. Looks like a treat to climb a bunch of 5.10 on the white stuff!
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MH2
climber
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Mighty,
Time is nuanced and hard to decipher on the North North Arete.
Thou sure and firm-set earth,
Hear not my steps, which way they walk, for fear
Thy very stones prate of my whereabout,
And take the present horror from the time,
Which now suits with it.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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If you see Eric's lost (1973) Adidas shoe from the FFA, you know you're on route.
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MH2
climber
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There is a small story to that, Greg. Tom got to the top of the 5.10 and started up the 12a face. I yelled something at him but he didn't seem to hear. Later, he congratulated me on doing the 12a, which took me completely by surprise since I went straight to aiding the bolts. He read more into my steady progress than he should have. Not only that, he acted on his assumption.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 01:52am PT
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Hahaha nice.. sandbagged himself! ;)
RyanD,
You (and others) should put up more stuff here. I really liked the Planet Caravan/ Liquid Gold/ ... sequence back here -
+10000
Take more pics bud!! post em up!!
I'm hoping luke is just saving his for winter ;) Apparently he hasn't figured out how he can post his pics from his Ipad yet.. I think i can figure it out bud, and as to your time issue just stick to Squamish Photos and Stories!!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Glad u guys like my iPhone photos I'll see what I can do.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 02:11am PT
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I'm considering getting one for route photos in the valley.. I don't really wanna drag the SLR everywhere...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 05:04am PT
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Managed to get out today after a quick visit with the family up the new island speedway. I picked up Kieran at the ferry terminal after I got off the ferry and we headed up the old sea to sky with a warning from Nathan about a speed trap at Lions Bay.
The mission of the day was to hit the grand wall and for me red point the Split Pillar. When we passed a cop sitting on the overpass just outside Porteau Cove after the big lights show in Lions Bay. I thought uh oh.. Sure enough there was a black undercover truck with someone pulled over, and a tow truck with a bike on the back, and five minutes down the road a biker walking to Brittania. Brutal.....
When we arrived in the parking lot Nate was waiting for us, he didn't have a partner and Kieran had asked me if he could join. I didn't mind having the extra rope since I didn't get much sleep this weekend and wasn't feeling so hot.
Kyle and Nina were there too and we were scoping out the traffic. We saw one party about to start the pillar, and what looked like a party of three on merci me, but actually turned out to be a third party.
With three parties on it allready it was starting to look like a bit of a gong show. The pillar party was actually moving pretty quick, so we were hopefull that maybe if we delayed a bit by linking Exasperator into Peasants and doing the cruel shoes approach we could kill enough time to have a clear shot at the pillar for my redpoint and then bail so Nate could get a ride back to the city with a buddy of his.
When we got up to the base, there was a party on the flake with a HUGE 60l bag I couldn't believe this chick was climbing the flake with such a large bag on. I asked them if they had intentions on the Grand Wall also and they said "There's three parties ahead of us!". WOW!
To boot there was a party on Exasperator. There was much debate as to try and run up Apron Strings before they got up there or even the flake escape to get to Merci me before they did. That also would have meant being 4th in line and the second party looked to be pretty damn slow.
Kieran said "I just want to climb so we decided to start up Peasants route. I gave Kieran the first lead because I was trying to save energy for the Pillar and to give him a chance at the onsight. He did well on the first pitch and linked it into the second quite easily. He was a little slow on the next pitch and suffered for it at the top. He took a couple good whips at the crux and then got a small nut in high and sent it proper.
He brought us up and Nate took the lead. He linked the next two pitches and it seemed like he flew up to the belay it was so quick. We gave Kieran the last crux pitch and after I sandbagged him with some tall guy beta and he proceded to whip. He figured out it out with the normal person beta shown here (not really hahaha) by Kyle.
It was 3:30 by this point and Nate's ride was supposed to pick him up at 4 plus we would probably have run into the bag lady at the base of the pillar anyways.. So somewhat reluctantly we decided to bail, probably for the best since it was getting pretty darn warm up there by that point...
We did two raps to the base with two 70's (over exasperator and sneak right at the end KNOTS IN ROPE!) and Nathan peaced out. I suggested to Kieran that we try Flex Capacitor 10c, one of Jeremy Frimers new routes. He agreed and we wandered over there after chilling at the base for a bit.
Here's a thread and topo about it, http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_climbing_bb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3568&hilit=flux+capacitor
Kieran wanted the first pitch 5.9 so I happily agreed to lead the 10c second pitch. It was pretty warm at that point and Kieran almost greased off the first pitch a couple times, as did I.
I left most of the big stuff at the base thinking I could get small gear in between the pods and only took 1 #3 camalot. As soon as I got to the belay I could see that was a bit of a mistake. The really wide stuff at the end has bolts but it would have been really nice to have had a #4 to just plug and go instead of shoving smaller gear into the good fingers.
I gave er a shot anyways and got about halfway before I greased off. It was so hot at that point. I fought another piece in and had to take again get a breather. The sun was just killing me and I had just drank my last sip of water. I managed to get back on it and get to the belay, but I felt like I was going to grease off the whole way.
I lowered to the first Java Jive belay, and as soon as Kieran started climbing the sun went behind the ridge and the cool afternoon Squamish breeze hit my face. With the conditions much more favorable he Tron'd it. (Top Rope On Sight). Dammit... another redpoint I need to go back for! :)
So it's probably a good thing that I didn't get to the pillar, because by the time I did I would have either a: greased off again, or b: Got Nate fired for missing work tomorrow because he couldn't hitch a ride after dark...... ;)
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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That gif is making me dizzy. Oww my brain.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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But if you would have got Nate fired he could go to the valley!
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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I love watching people try to solve that puzzle on the last pitch of Peasant's Route. From the Grand Wall and from Millennium Falcon you can watch them peek around the corner, then reach blindly for the bolt with a draw, then peek around again... Kind of like groping for a light switch in the dark. Strangely enough, once you know how to do it it's usually easier for smaller folks providing they can high step decently.
It was a pleasure to find that exit out of the corner over twelve years ago, and I still enjoy doing it every time. It's one of my favorites to send unsuspecting friends up on. Especially If I can be there to watch!
K
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 10:15pm PT
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I fixed the GIF... i think..
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 10, 2012 - 05:05am PT
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Went on an Incredible Journey today, my friend Jeff tried out his remote heli cam!
He usually takes winter photos, see them Here
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MH2
climber
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Oct 10, 2012 - 11:50am PT
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Your friend Jeff takes GREAT photos.
The iPhone can do a good job, too. Technical excellence not required. There is a stitching app that made me jealous of my friend's much smaller and lighter camera, and he emailed it to me from here:
(photo by pazzo)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 10, 2012 - 11:32pm PT
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MH2 u are correct, he takes some sweet shots for sure & this new remote heli cam is the future IMO- for climbing, snowboarding, skiing & W.H.Y. most serious photogs will be doing it in the next few years, or wishing they were. His setup is really interesting, the heli is guided by a gopro hooked up to a monitor in real time that you watch from the ground. Then he has his big DSLR mounted on the heli with a remote shutter that he hits whenever for stills. Definitely a lot easier than rapping in from the top & pushing yourself away from the wall or setting up a human tripod to get top down/birds eye angles.
I like that pano shot, I have an app called photosynth that does the same but there are a bunch of different ones out there. A bunch of photos on my Last TR I used it, very cool.
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MH2
climber
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Oct 11, 2012 - 12:38am PT
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We can perhaps all agree that it is the way the picture makes you feel that is important.
With that out of the way, I think I see an interesting future for the heli cam, and thanks for RyanD for bringing me into that future.
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MH2
climber
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Oct 11, 2012 - 01:10am PT
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Is that partly about this location, approximately opposite the trail in to Angel's Crest?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 11, 2012 - 01:15am PT
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Seems likely. The squatters used to congregate on a sandbar on the Mamquam, up from its confluence with the Squamish. They got evicted by the District a few years ago.
Campers seem dispersed all over the area. Some are discreet enough to go a reasonable distance up logging roads before camping, but some seem to think they're entitled, and camp at the site Bruce mentions, on top of the Malamute, and in other high-impact locations, especially when more than one or two are involved for more than a day or two. Quite unfortunate.
Someone should put the people who Bruce quotes in touch with the Access Society, and maybe they could FaceLift the area. It's possible that it's not just climbers, as there's a long tradition of squatting in the Squamish area. But it seems likely that climbers are involved.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 11, 2012 - 02:37am PT
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In that spot in MH2s photo I was hiking a few years back & came across an entire community back there, 20' tee pee with a wood stove in it & all! It was a mess, I wonder where they were poo-ing. Camping off the Mamquam FSR & in the spots Anders mentions is lame, not picking up your trash is even lamer.
Jim B- I like butt shots as much as the next guy & agree that they are often the ones where the most emotion are, seeing as the subject is literally & figuratively attached to the photog, but the thing I like about the heli cam is that it will permit views & angles that we have never seen in places where a real heli cam or even some rigging is not possible or practical. I do see the point though of it being like using chalk or sticky rubber, it makes things easier in a way. However, when someone with a keen eye & some solid experience can use it as a way to enhance their craft & have fun as well I see it as a successful tool that can help progression of an art form.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2012 - 01:32pm PT
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I agree entirely. If you are gonna camp be low pro about it and leave no trace!
I've been playing a bit with my iPhone this morning to see if I could
Figure out how to post a photo direct to thread and i think I got
It.
Anyone know what this park is?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 11, 2012 - 01:46pm PT
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Ya. I been really high on hallooseagenics and peed off that dock.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 11, 2012 - 02:11pm PT
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Me too, Wayside.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2012 - 09:40pm PT
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not quite... it is a side but not way...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 11, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
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I'm not going to get in a guessing game with you big mike!
Actually yes i will.
More Heli Cam. What route is Remy on?
I bet even some of the OGs have done this classic clip up.
& heres some video.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 11, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
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A)It's Rainbow Park.
B)Pleasant Pheasant
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 11, 2012 - 11:12pm PT
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That's the challenge Jim, for now it's just best to climb routes you have wired as it would be tough to be trying to onsight or send something with that thing whirring near u. Maybe I'll try & get a photo of the setup next time.
You are wrong Relic- on both. Nobody knows this one? No sport climbers on here eh? Hint- The route he's on even has a few jams & is 10d. Lakeside park by blueberry?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2012 - 03:23am PT
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That thing is so cool. Amazing potential... Imagine the pans you could do.
Thanks for that Jeff and Ryan!!
No clue as to the route, but the park in my pic has been recently reno'd if that helps..
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 12, 2012 - 09:56am PT
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Beers are not enough?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2012 - 11:16am PT
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I missed it Ryan but you got it.. That's not beers, the corner isn't prominent enough...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
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squirt gun and a camera... that would be funny!! :)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 12, 2012 - 02:35pm PT
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Don't need a squirt gun today.
Probably wouldn't bust out the chopper at a busy crag since it does make some noise. Not quite lawn mower loud, but somewhere between an electric toothbrush & a blender filled with mashed potatoes. I think he's gonna have some great success with it in the ski/snowboard department.
The route is at chek & is the first line that was climbed on the wall & still one of the best. I'm sure at least BK has done it??!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
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Is it Bullet the Blue Car 10d? at forgotten??
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 12, 2012 - 03:56pm PT
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Ding, ding!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 12, 2012 - 05:38pm PT
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Ahem Clearcut was climbed before Bullet the Blue Car and is just a few meters left!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 12, 2012 - 06:12pm PT
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Probably wouldn't bust out the chopper at a busy crag since it does make some noise.
Nothing that a carefully aimed rock or carabiner wouldn't fix. Maybe try the thing out on some boulderers first? Some of them seem to enjoy a circus like atmosphere. Better still, get some lessons on kite photography from Chaz, and do that.
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MH2
climber
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Oct 12, 2012 - 06:13pm PT
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No sport climbers on here eh?
Does the now over-written Gom Jabbar qualify? Not that I clipped many of the bolts, but I've done lots of the Chek climbs probably including Bullet the Blue Car.
It was amusing to be up there this year and see the bolts sinking into the moss on Boot to the Head. I guess we'll all land in the recycle bin one day.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2012 - 06:18pm PT
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Dru I was thinking the same thing but I guess clearcut is considered to be on conroy's castle
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 12, 2012 - 07:09pm PT
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I won't say that the Forgotten Wall saw a lot of activity in the 90s but Guy Edwards amongst others did try what is now "From Beneath You It Devours" on marginal gear several times. I remember belaying Guy on one of his attempts and his only piece was a blue Camalot about halfway up. It was pretty interesting watching him try to boulder out the crux moves and then downclimb 5m until he could safely fall off...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 12, 2012 - 07:25pm PT
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Oh Anders, always taking cheap shots at the boulderers. Just because we are tattooed & shirtless while wearing toques & shouting terms of endearment in other languages doesn't automatically mean we like circus environments?? If I ever catch u near the boulders we're gonna blow pot smoke in your face & force u to do some overhead heel hooking while flying heli cams all over the place capturing every moment :-)
MH2 what climb is boot to the head?? My info on BTBC being the first climb on forgotten wall comes straight from the old select so it is possibly.........wrong. Great climb either way & a good one to throw your gym climber friends on. I did get a free QuickDraw off that Clearcut climb the other day when walking by, it was on the 3rd bolt at a roof but there is a ramp that u can walk right up to there! Yay booty!
Oplanax or MH2 or anyone have any stories about when climbing first started happening in chek canyon or any of the other bolted areas north of town?? Nordic, rogues, calcheak?? Oplanax shared some info a while back on that OW near brandywine which was pretty interesting, let's hear more if there is more?
Edit- Oplanax is already on it, thanks!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2012 - 07:26pm PT
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It doesn't sound like climbing with guy was ever boring......
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 12, 2012 - 07:33pm PT
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There was climbing in Cheakamus Canyon proper at least from the late 1960s, both at locations downriver from StarCheak, and Trestle Tower. In the 1970s, we took people on the FMCBC mountaineering course there for their rock weekend. No reports of heli-bouldering, though.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 12, 2012 - 07:46pm PT
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gf can probably share tales of climbing at Chek earlier than I can (92) and no doubt Tricouni was cragging along the Starvation Lake road crags in the 60s as well as at Trestle Tower.
I recall gandering at all the rock in Cheakamus Canyon quite a bit in the early 90s. After a hiking/paragliding trip up Gentian Ridge with L.H. we were driving back from Rubble Creek and I was gaping out the window at some roadside rocks saying "Those look pretty good for climbing!" L told me "No one will ever come here to climb. The place for new routes is where the people are - in the Smoke Bluffs". Six months later the roadside rocks I had been gaping at were Rogue's Gallery and it was game on.
I have to say that most of the routes I have done in Cheakamus have been roundly ignored, probably because they almost all take some gear and no one ever goes to Cheakamus with a rack. That said I think some of them are pretty good.
"Jugular Vein" at the Rehabs is a beautiful line - laybacking a wide crack then endless gym-feature holds up a steep wall.
"Nine Inch Rage Against Jane's Tool", besides having a name taken from the Georgia Straight music classifieds section (I think it was in the bassist wanted section) is one of the steepest 5.8s in all of Squamish, more so than the Milkman, and entirely gear protected too.
On the other hand "Beefwhale" is a dog. 50 hrs of scrubbing and 10 hours of hitchhiking for that? Some really fun moves, but it grows over too fast to be a classic. At least MH2 belayed me. The part I remember now about that climb is the hitchhikes home from Cheakamus scrubbing missions. I would be standing next to the desolate pre-Olympics road with my thumb out, covered from head to toe in lichen and dust. When someone eventually stopped their first question would usually be "What did you DO to get dropped off HERE?"
Climbing with Guy was always fun. Actually just being with Guy was always fun. Shopping cart races down the 4th Avenue hill, storm drain swimming, all that. I really still do miss Fast Eddie. I think everyone who ever met him does.
MH2 do you still have the GE vs TM Herbert pants comparison slide?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2012 - 08:48pm PT
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Drew, I thought you were talking about either beefwhale or Memphis bound.. I've done the latter but not the former. Maybe time for a scrub to check er' out!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 12, 2012 - 08:55pm PT
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Beefwhale was probably actually first climbed but not scrubbed by John Chilton in 92. By the time I started scrubbing in 94 there was no sign of it ever being done, but there was webbing on top around a tree. I figured someone had probably rapped in to check it out.
I always figured the chimney/gully right of Memphis Bound would be a great mixed route if the moss froze, but on the winter times I have been there, the moss has been too dry to freeze. There is a 2 inch splitter crack in there under the moss though.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Oct 13, 2012 - 01:07am PT
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I climbed the obvious right facing corner at Cheekeye in 87 ish.
The Big Easy, 12 b-c stemmer, gear and two bolts.
Not technically the Canyon but same rock not far from the Cheakamus.
I wouldn't climb there unless you've got permission or bow and arrow in the woodpile.
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MH2
climber
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Oct 13, 2012 - 01:34am PT
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Boot to the Head is at the south end of Shoot to Kill. It's in Kevin McLane's Whistler Rockclimbs.
Keith Reid did Gom Jabbar in '93 and Jola Sandford completed the route as Freewill two years later. It was soon after The Edge opened in North Vancouver that I first heard about Chek when someone asked, "Have you seen that overhanging crack Keith Reid is working on?"
I've had lots of fun with many climbs and people along that corridor and had the real sport-climbing experience of being on climbs way too hard for me. Also got a couple of routes that I had to work on; not my usual M.O.
When I say that the comparison of TM and Guy has to do with clowning, I do it with great respect. The clown holds your interest because you are never sure what they are going to do next. And they can scare you.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2012 - 12:37pm PT
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Wow cool stuff! Thanks for that! Great in-flight reading...
Hey Bruce, tell em about the frenchies you ran into yesterday.... Too funny !
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 13, 2012 - 02:58pm PT
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Thanks for the history lesson boys! We have talked about a lot on this thread but not too much about the 1000+ routes that are north of town 30min-1hr so it's cool to learn a bit about them. As prominent as RB has been north of Squam it seems he never did much at chek or rogues?? I also have wondered why Shoot to kill doesn't have many more lines on it??
Chief- Is the corner you speak of "the line" on the cliffs above the Squam/Paradise valley fork?? Those cliffs look awesome, was there any other routes there before it was closed, or was it always closed?
ahhhhh the rain again.........
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Oct 13, 2012 - 04:06pm PT
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The Big Easy and Gator Wrestling are amazing climbs on the Cheekye Reserve.
As mentioned earlier, you need band permission or bow and arrow in the woodpile. I claimed the latter.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 13, 2012 - 07:33pm PT
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I don't remember the date, but I went up with Jim Sanford a couple of times to work Division Bell. That is, he would work it, and I would watch and maybe climb some of the easier stuff nearby. Somebody with a guidebook could check the date, but it was fairly early. I'm sitting in Abbotsford International Airport, on my way to the flatlands, and don't have my Chekamus guide with me.
Actually I don't own a Chekamaus guide.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 13, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
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So ghost, or anyone else who recalls. Did Sandford have to work division bell & a lot of his other harder routes (presto, permanent waves, technical ecstasy, carress of steel, etc.) for long periods of time?? Or did he just bolt & send pretty quickly then on to the next?? He seemed to get a lot done for a few years there.
Still looking for my first Sandford tick. Same goes for Hamish' routes.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 13, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
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Still looking for my first Sandford tick.
There's a Sandford et al. route on Golden Hinde that might, I say might, be within your aptitude range (it's a 5.4) :p
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 13, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
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For bonus points, where did many of the early route names at "Chek" come from? And why was the heifer fleeing?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 13, 2012 - 10:51pm PT
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Was the heifer fleeing because it's easy to leave the barn door open on that one? At least that's usually what I do before ending up in the air.
Gf when u say salt sheds u mean rogues right??
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 13, 2012 - 11:15pm PT
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I pity the kids these days who have grown up with internet weather forecasts and never had to call the Environment Canada toll-free number and listen to the The Original Fish Hotline ad before they told you if it was gonna rain or not
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 14, 2012 - 12:07am PT
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Thanks for the Samaritan work Bruce, that is awesome! I cannot believe there was a teepee there still, I wonder if it's been there since I was last down there 2 summers ago or if it gets erected every year?? Regardless, good riddance.
For a minute I thought you were gonna go to Cali with the frenchies. For a minute I also thought you were talking about the bongs u guys used for rope climbing protection BITD. Not the ones us boulderers use for climbing protection nowadays.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 14, 2012 - 02:07am PT
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Jim, it's possible I stole your route Gator wresting as I went there with Dick Parker and looked up to see this amazing line with some bolts. I headed on up and at about half height I realized that the bolts were not all in yet and scared myself ####less running it out to the top with no pro and some hard climbing.I'm guessing that was late '89 or early 1990.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 14, 2012 - 12:53pm PT
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Good work! A Squamish FaceLift, of sorts.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Oct 14, 2012 - 09:20pm PT
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The owner of the Teepee had a bear visit him 4 nights ago.
I have some very clean friends just upstream from him, and they had a bear visit them last night while watching a movie. They never saw you guys, but did have a visit from some guy from a department of something the day before.
Good work anyway Bruce et al.....
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 14, 2012 - 10:11pm PT
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I've retired from organizing such things, or at least I thought I had, after many years of working on climbing conservation and access matters. Others took over responsibility for the Access Society a few years ago, and after nearly 20 years of volunteering, it was time for a change, for it and me. I hoped to stay out of the way (unless asked), quietly work on a Squamish climbing history, put more time into family things and actually climbing, and at most occasionally show my mug at volunteer events and festivals, and moonlight harmlessly at the Yosemite FaceLift. At least, I thought that was the plan - were it not for a certain wretched gondola proposal. (Still undecided.)
It sounds like the Access Society provided the needed leadership to address the current situation, and that things are in hand. No need for my involvement, although maybe they'd let me hold a garbage bag or something. Perhaps a larger event, a Squamish FaceLift, would make sense - focusing on all the parks and natural lands at Squamish, including the Chief. That'd take some organizing, but might have considerable benefits for both the town and climbers. Hopefully the powers that be will consider the idea.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2012 - 11:06pm PT
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Ahhh.... Reading my favourite thread, while eating Pizza deck pizza in sunny California..... How can I complain?? Nice write up Bruce! Even better than it was in person!!
The valley is everything I ever expected and more!!! See the going to Cali thread for the play by play...
Squamish Facelift sounds like an awesome idea! I'm sure it would be fun!
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Oct 14, 2012 - 11:30pm PT
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Rad 11a at Fern Hill
Burp the Worm 11c, Fern Hill
Wishing I had a big cam on Skullduggary 10a
Getting confused about the rope on an 11b in the Bluffs
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 14, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
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Uh oh. Now fish boy is posting sport climbing photos. Whats next?! Awesome photos btw! Those 2 climbs at fern are great! That 11b- too pink to think? I think. Is weird the way the rope runs. Skullduggery is good too & not as bad as it looks, unlike the beaver just above. Nice ones.
Edit- the 11a is called good times, which it is
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Oct 14, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
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You'll notice I was sport climbing in TC Pros, does that make me trad still?
Yeah, that's the 11b....
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 17, 2012 - 04:09am PT
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Fishboy, thanks for posting that movie. I've never seen it but always wanted to, the Squamish footage is awesome & the Croft footage is wild, they pretty much get him in real time climbing the entire Cardinal pinnacle he is moving so fast. Horne lake footage was cool too.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Oct 17, 2012 - 07:23pm PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2012 - 01:18am PT
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Bruce- no, no not yet... Hopefully me and Derek will get it done. Check out the Cali thread for updates.
Thanks for the pics nic!!! Sweet!
Wish ya'll were here!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2012 - 11:17pm PT
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Wow!! Dead around here... ;) thanks to Chris Mac for the shout out in the most recent supertopo newsletter!!!! We finally made the big time!!
This has been posted on the Cali thread but it's super topical so why not here too??
Me and Ed Cooper!
Also our own Paul Brennan after his ascent of Mescalito!!! Congrats Paul!!!
Paul has big things planned for after the storm! Too bad Tom is done for the season!!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 24, 2012 - 01:25am PT
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Mike is bigger than he thinks he is. Now that is funny.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Oct 24, 2012 - 01:29am PT
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Maybe Tami was standing in a hole?
Tee hee hee. ;-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2012 - 02:22am PT
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They don't call me big mike for nothing!!! ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2012 - 12:34am PT
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Holy is it raining around here or what ??? I think I hear crickets.... ;)
Me and Relic are back in Canuck land!! Now if only we could do something about this weather!!!!
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MH2
climber
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Oct 25, 2012 - 08:53am PT
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You'll think of something sooner or later.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2012 - 02:31am PT
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hmmm.. peak bagging? Ice Climbing?? not yet.... temporarily defecting to the states?? naw love pow too much....
Silver watch out I might show up on your doorstep and kidnap you to belay me with weather reports like that!!!
Cross posted from my Cali thread!
So on Thursday I had a couple of things to do in the morning but my afternoon was clear and I still really wanted to go climbing. I felt like my roadtrip just wasn't ready to end...
The boys finished up our latest gig and when we moved the stuff one of them had some personal business to go take care of so Kieran and I siezed the opportunity to get some pitches in!!
We ditched this view....
For this one... (The Chief)
The Squaw
On the way in from the parking lot we ran into "Micro Mark". I asked him WTF are you doing here dude???? I said you should be in the valley!!!!! He laughed and smiled and says I love this sh!t man!!! He asks us where we are going and I said penny lane! He says cool i'm going there too! He split off at one point to go set up a top rope from above.
Up Up and Away 5.9 was free and I love this rig so I racked up quickly.. (member this one Tami?)
Just as I was about to set off, who should toss a rope over but Mark.. he was working the 13a prow “To Be Exposed” next to up up and away.. This Sonnie Trotter FA looked desperately thin on gear but mark had one decent piece in and a couple average ones… I chit chatted with Mark a bit and ate the crack for breakfast. I instantly appreciated Squamish granite that much more. Every lock was solid and every foot was bomber and grainy and felt like it would never slip out… The temperatures were amazing! 6 to 7 degrees (celcius) max and the friction was all-time…
I LOVE SQUAMISH GRANITE!!!!!!!
I flowed through the crux without a single hesitation and placed less gear than I ever have on that upper section. Kieran seconded it with ease and while he was taking it down I got to watch Mark try the crux on TBE. He flowed through the moves and seemingly was pasting his feet on nothing with no hands until he slowly barn doored off.
We left Mark to his project and headed over to Partners in Crime 11a
Kieran tried it a couple times but the opening moves were wet so he didn’t want to commit. We decided to try Climb and Punishment 10d instead.
He loved this one but got shut down at the crux, and whipped on the pin.
While he was hanging I had time for a few photos..
The trees were sporting their fall colours
It took Kieran quite a while to get it done and it was pretty much dark by the time I took it down. I pretty much got it clean besides having to fight a couple cams that Kieran shoved in there….
We packed up and headed back to the car so we could go pick Mark up. We went over to his place and ran into him as he was headed towards the Cliffside. I suggested that we go to the brew pub because the food was at least passable there vs Cliffside…
Mark must know a few people at the pub because we got the hugest plate of nachos I have ever personally witnessed at the brew pub…. It is amazing to converse with someone who has just as much stoke as you do. I felt as if we had a lot in common even if he is playing at an infinitely higher level…
He told us about his ascent of Genus Loci and how it was probably one of the coolest things he had done all summer.. I asked him if he liked it so much that he would go lead it again, but he said he would rather second it for a friend if they were trying to get the redpoint… ;)
I took this cheesy photo…
Kieran and I both had fun hanging out with Mark. Next morning it was back to work... ;)
What was your first time back on squamish granite after valley experience like????
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2012 - 10:49am PT
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Shameless bump.. See question above!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Nice work capturing the fall colors!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2012 - 11:57am PT
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Thanks Perry. It was awesome to have you join us for dinner the other night... Thanks for that!!!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The Cliffside was always a bit rougher, though not quite up to the 'standards' of the downtown bars in Squamish. Still, the sign on the door saying "no knives", and the list of banned people, were somewhat reassuring. Plus you could also threaten your life with your basic triple-bypass meal.
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MH2
climber
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I've always felt I climbed better after a road trip, no matter where. Maybe it relaxes you? Gets you out of some mental ruts?
Thinking about sun, now. Those who do not learn from history...
an early PNW TR
The Journals of Lewis and Clark, Bernard DeVoto, 1953
(all entries and some inventive spelling by Lewis)
November 5th Tuesday 1805
"Rained all the after part of last night, rain continues this morning"
November 6th Wednesday 1805
"A cool wet raney morning"
November 7th Thursday 1805
"A cloudy foggey morning Some rain"
November 8th Friday 1805
A cloudy morning Some rain"
November 9th Saturday 1805
"rained hard all the fore part of the day"
"The Water of the river being too salt to use we are obliged to make use of rain water. Some of the party not accustomed to Salt water has made too free a use of it on them it acts as a pergitive"
November 10th Sunday 1805
"rained verry hard the greater part of the night & continues this morning"
November 11th Monday 1805
"A hard rain all the last night"
"rained all day"
November 12th Tuesday 1805
"rained with great violence"
November 13th Wednesday 1805
"The rain continue all day. nothing to eate but pounded fish which we keep as a reserve and use in Situations of this kind."
November 14th Thursday 1805
"rained all the last night without intermition, and this morning"
"The rain &c. which has continued without a longer intermition than 2 hours at a time for ten days past has distroyed the robes and rotted nearly one half of the few clothes the party has"
November 15th Friday 1805
"Rained all the last night"
"The rainey weather continued without a longer intermition than 2 hours at a time, from the 5th in the morng. untill the sixteenth is 11 days rain, and the most disagreeable time I have experenced confined on a tempiest coast wet"
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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What was your first time back on squamish granite after valley experience like????
It was... Interesting.
Valley in October, back to Van, kinda rainy, but caught a good day in early November and headed up to Squamish. Gearing up in the Apron parking lot, we hear "Hi. What are you up to?" Turn around and see Jim Sinclair.
"Something on the Apron. Maybe Sparrow."
"Mind if I join you?"
Well, no, we didn't mind. And soon we were climbing. We offered Jim the lead of the first real pitch, the rising rightward traverse, but he said he was happy just to tie in in the middle and enjoy the ride. I wondered to myself if he was no longer climbing well, but watching him on that pitch was an eye-opener. He just walked. Standing upright, not reaching out sideways to touch the rock, not apparently even in climbing mode. Sure, it's only 5.8, but he made it look like it was the flat part of the approach trail.
So, obviously, we offered him the next lead, but he said he was still happy in the middle, so I set off. I was fairly comfortable on the Apron at that point, and after the bulge, continued straight up on the old Slim Pickins line rather than moving left, then up, then back right on Sparrow.
So from the horizontal crack at the bulge it's what... about 25 feet or so of 10b slab with no pro to where the climbing eases? However far, I'd done it often enough not to be worried and sailed onward, cruising up on increasingly damp rock until I stepped in a slime patch just before the last real move.
Outta there! One second, and 40 or 50 feet later I said "Hi Jim. You sure you don't want a go?"
No, he was still happy in the middle. So I re-did it, but took the easy way.
Not sure that having been in Yosemite until a few days before made any difference, but you did ask.
Edit (having seen Tami's note above): Yes, the pub in Valleycliff (the Cliffside) was totally suburban. The Chieftan and the Squamish Hotel were total slum taverns, which is why we probably hung out in them. Well, that and because the Cliffside didn't exist back then.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
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Hahaha... MH2... Times haven't changed much eh?
Tami was that your fa? Km lists you first....
Ghost thanks for that excellent tale!! Slim pickins has been over bolted by over the rainbow correct??? Didn't KM out OTR up? Hmmm not such a purist after all it seems...
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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The Cliffside was always a bit rougher, though not quite up to the 'standards' of the downtown bars in Squamish. Still, the sign on the door saying "no knives", and the list of banned people, were somewhat reassuring. Plus you could also threaten your life with your basic triple-bypass meal.
Mighty appears to be suffering from some form of recall dyslexia.
The Chieftain was the loggers bar (some loggers were Indians too) and mainly a George Jones, Conway Twitty outfit.
The Squamish (later to became the Ocean Port) was the bikers bar, (which meant a bunch of loggers and Indians drank there too), was much more a Bob Seeger joint and one of the last bastions of "Folk Dancing".
You could end up in a physical altercation at either bar depending on what you were or weren't wearing, who you did or didn't drink with, who you logged for, poor etiquette at the pool table or arguing with an Indian.
The Cliffside on the other hand was Squamish's first neighborhood pub and a much more genteel establishment catering to the appetites of Valleycliffe locals, loggers, bikers and climbers. You could end up in a fight there too but it would be over loud lycra, hangdogging, rap bolting, excessive posing, hitting on someone's girlfriend or wife or arguing with a logger (who could be an Indian).
Leastways, that's my recollection.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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In the early 1960s we tended to frequent the Chieftan. The regulars weren't used to climbers back then: didn't know what to make of them, so pretty much left us alone.
The Chieftan was nowhere near as rough as some of the pubs in Prince Rupert or even Terrace in those days. Even the cops were reluctant to go into some of them.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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The Chieftan was nowhere near as rough as some of the pubs in Prince Rupert or even Terrace in those days. Even the cops were reluctant to go into some of them.
What he said. The Chieftain and the Squish Hotel were seedy taverns, and yes, you could get into a fight if you didn't mind your manners. But some of the places up in the north and in the central interior were a far more serious adventure. I don't know much about PR or Terrace, but Williams Lake fit the "even the cops were reluctant" bill.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I didn't go much to the Chieftain or the Squamish Hotel - Daryl correctly diagnosed me as a lightweight, when it came to drinking, anyway. They seemed typical seedy bars for the 1970s, not much different from those in downtown Vancouver. They might have had signs about knives and banned lists - can't remember. But I very definitely remember the Cliffside, probably in the early 1980s, having such signs.
As others have observed, the bars up north are in an entirely different category. I visited a few, when working geology.
Then there was the original Mad Trapper, in Golden, before it moved and went all yuppie.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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gf
I was witness to many of Darly's harebrained antic but not that one.
PB
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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The beer parlour in Bralorne was more epic then in Squamish ; the drunkest I ever saw a human being who was still standing and drinking was some joint in Pr Rupert and the bar I did go into and wish I hadn't would have to be a toss up between The Drake or The American - both in Van. Both long gone.
Might have been me you saw in Rupert...
For some years, my PhD thesis adviser and I used to hit every pub in Rupert on a single night, at least one beer in each. They kept burning down at about the same rate as new ones opened. But eventually there were so many new ones we couldn't keep pace, and many of the cool, old ones had gone and it the the crawl just wasn't the same.
Ah, the Drake and the American. Don't forget the New Fountain and the Stanley. Both long gone. Along with the Cecil (I'm still banned for life from there).
Ghost: the Ranch Hotel in Williams Lake was the first pub I (illegally) had a beer in. Pretty calm that night, but it's was WILD some other times I visited.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Yup, the Drake was something special. I remember an argument one night at a table near the one I was sitting at. Didn't get out of hand, although it sounded pretty nasty. Finally one guy got up and headed for the door. Which, as you may recall, was down a wide four- or five-step set of stairs. A young woman started up it as he started down. He punched her square in the face as he passed, not even slowing down. And then he was gone, and she got up, apparently not seriously injured. Nor very surprised. It was that kind of place.
About fifteen minutes later he came back in, carrying a long narrow cardoard box, and headed straight to the table where he'd had the argument. I figured we were all about to witness a shooting, but he just sat down and pulled a curling broom out of the box and showed it to someone as if nothing unusual had happened.
Just another night at the Drake.
Unless it was the Yale. Not much difference as I recall.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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The president of the Canadian Advocacy Group for Las Vegas Strippers performing in the Khumbu region and globally for that matter is now back online.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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OK then, sing us a song, now that you're back.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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bmacd is back. Cool!
Representation and advocacy for us relic hominids.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
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Ya Bruce!!! Welcome back buddy!! My hook worked!! Somehow...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Bmacd is back! Hopefully for awhile. The Drake & the American is a toss up for sure Tami, have only been to each once & coincidentally on the same night I would have to choose the American for overall scuzziness based on odor (odor of patrons, servers, restrooms & the building in general), lets just say I only had one, it was definitely from a bottle then we got the F out! I guess the Drake was more tolerable due to the ladies that were being paid to be naked as opposed to those that wanted to get paid by us to get naked in the alley behind the American. Ewwwwww.
As for returning to Squamish granite after being away i'm with Andy, some of my best days climbing and feeling good in Squamish were shortly after returning from a trip. The Squamish setting and stone always feels so good to return to.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2012 - 08:10pm PT
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I remember the drake. My old roomate had a hard on for the place... We got stuck in the parking lot one time for a couple hours when my battery died... We had cables and everything but no one would give us a jump!! Finally some gentleman helped us out... ;) scuzzy place, decent girls tho... Hey tricouni do you think they would still recognize you at the Cecil?? I bet you could get away with it ;)
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Hey tricouni do you think they would still recognize you at the Cecil?? I bet you could get away with it ;)
Yeah, I was back a few times after the banning. The bouncers and waiters turned over fairly frequently in those days. Too bad it's gone.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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We should all go to the Lotus Gardens sometime, for some nostalgia, and fine Chinese-Canadian cuisine. Before or after the pub crawl?
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MH2
climber
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Hip-Hoorah for Bmacd! And other semi-mythicals. Will scramble to get my Yeti papers in order.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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I think their chicken comes out of a can & the noodles taste like earthworms at lotus, I also suspect shenanigans occur on the upper floor.
I'd rather eat the fresh cats at fortune kitchen on the north end of town, even though the health inspectors reports would allude to the fact that lotus may be in better shape currently, FK hasnt been inspected in almost a year- dinner for one "B" please!
Totally off topic still but this link may be useful for those that don't wanna die from eating out- at restaurants.
Find your favorite local restaurant here!
Edit- just click on food establishments up top & have fun. Not sure if I'm meant to share this link or not but its good info to have.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2012 - 09:33pm PT
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I've always been happy with fortune kitchen food.. of course i've never done any tests on it per se...
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Took the KidCormier out in August on a successful prehistoric human tracking mission to the far end of Stave Lake to get some cover shots for the Journal of Human Evolution.
Little did I know, 2 months later he would be leading 26 out of 30 pitches on last months ascent of the Muir Wall as his first El Cap route.
How about a round of applause for Squamish's 21st century version of Daryl Hatten ?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
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Hahahaha.. Yeah... he couldn't go to the city unless there was a visit to the Drake or the Cecil....
Ahhhh.. A bmacd image!! Nice to have you back sir. Yes, mucho congrats to Luke on his Muir Wall ascent. Very impressive effort, considering the temperatures and circumstances..
Luke hanging the bags at the bottom.
Silver asked me to buy the Kid a beer for him, so when I got the last minute invitation to dinner at Taste of India on Wednesday night I couldn't resist.
I called Kyle and Nina who were eager to go too, so they came and picked me up.
Luke with his Kingfisher
When we showed up Luke told us there was a special geust.. we bs'd for ahwile and i geussed a lot of wrong names until Perry showed up.
I was great to have Perry join us, just another climber like us, but with amazing stories!!
I took a couple crappy pics.. shoulda just used the flash...
a good time was had by all and the owner was very happy to have us!! ;)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Well by the looks of that photo, the kid has become the man! Nice work Luke, lets go climbing.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Hey Perry, Skitz says hi. You too, Tami.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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I recognize Nina ... is she a Vegas stripper too ?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2012 - 02:15am PT
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I dunno... She's a lurker.. Maybe she will answer for herself?? ;P
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2012 - 02:59pm PT
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Very cool Bruce.. I wish i could have come, but it just wasn't a reality.
I downloaded this whole thread last thread last night when some paranoia set in after my first post mysteriously vanished from the taco.. My browser can barely keep up to this thing... 256 megabytes so far...
it looks like it's wet snow at the Roundhouse...
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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That's just a photoshopped picture to promote pass-purchasing. Don't put your mountain bike away yet.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Winter kick off party at the eagle eye! Tonight feature film: "Further".
It's a fund raiser for sime free backcountry bites... Get here now.
Edit: me and ais are lurking on the back, by the free desserts.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nice work Bruce (except the sport climbing 😜)! Cool photos too, that corner looks awesome.
I think Hamish is right- There's not much snow up there compared to this time the past 2 yrs. It looks like rain at 1800m in that webcam shot if u ask me.
Yep Squamish is Squishy currently. On a lighter note I realized that my summer quest for a Sandford route has been in vain, I was looking in the guide the other day when I realized I've done one! The real kicker was that it was a GF/Sandford joint as well, it's called Food Frenzy up at Pet. Maybe GF can enlighten me as to the naming/story as the instructions also told me that it was retro/refurbed at one point. Was this by your hand as well Greg??
Hey Big Mike how do u upload photos to ST from your phone??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2012 - 01:28am PT
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Ryan I use flickr but i can also upload to st if i so choose simply by pressing the photo button!! maybe it works since i have is06?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Haha that photo is awesome Jim.
Thanks Mike I just needed to upgrade my software, this could be trouble.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2012 - 03:32am PT
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sick Ryan!! Jim you gotta flip that one! :)
Now you guys just need Hdr Pro to take awesome hdr photos and Ps Express to adjust saturation and tone ect...
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Fingers crossed there's no line ups on diedre
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2012 - 01:31pm PT
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hey Luke maybe if you update your Ipad OS you can post pics directly from there??
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Luke if u really want to climb there is some dry rock around here- sorry no gear placements though, although aid is often used. Any of u wanna check it out I'm off mon,tues.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Dry rock?!?! Where?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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guess we got lucky Kieran and I had the apron to ourselfs. unbelievable.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Up at ole chipamus fish boy, send me an email if u wanna go do a few laps.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Its now going for 100 bucks a day and only available south of 40
Ah, yes, but remember, "South of 40 degrees, there is no law. South of 50 degrees, there is no god."
So, dry rock or not, be careful if you venture down there.
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roadman
climber
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There's more God down there than you can shake a stick at
you all don't know jack about down there. you obsess about it... and people down there don't even know you or your country exist, eh.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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you all don't know jack about down there.
Having lived "down there" for the past 12 years, I know more about it than most people -- including many who have lived "down there" all their lives.
But then, as I suspect BK knows, that's not exactly the "down there" that the "no god south of 50" refers to.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Road man I'm glad that nobody "down there" knows about up here. The ignorance barrier keeps us safe but sadly it doesn't keep us dry :-)
Luke u guys r hilarious, & possibly addicted to type 3 fun. Went thru a stage where I thought wet rock was worth climbing but it didn't take long for the novelty to wear off, I'd rather go mountain biking.
Fortunately, yes there is dry rock around north of 40. About 10-15 routes at chipamus as well as this place, which is a bit of a mission- I shouldn't post this & I sure as hell ain't gonna say where but let's just say its out there- if any of u know I'd ask that u kindly don't mention it either but let's just say it rained about 40mm when we were there the other day & the rock was bone dry.
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roadman
climber
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I'd rather go mountain biking.
....i stand corrected! All those devils down south do know you exist!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Haha I'd be happy to take u there Luke, just not gonna give directions to a sensitive place on ST- I already say enough dumb shlt on here.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2012 - 06:35pm PT
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Looks good Ryan! cant share everything on the old intrawebs can we....
Did someone mention Dry Rock?? i've been torturing myself with pictures of it all day....
I've stepped into the 21st century and joined the HDR revolution...
A couple pictures from my recent California Adventure...
Middle Cathedral Yosemite
El Cap sunset
Relic at Tenaya Lake
Tuloumne Meadows
Relic on Solarium v4 Happy's Bishop
Brighter meadows, which one do you like?
Solarium v4
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nice shots again Mike, since ur an iPhone junky now you should have a look at this
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2012 - 11:19pm PT
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Ya those lenses look sweet!! i'm an HDR junkie now!!
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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The Cliffside on the other hand was Squamish's first neighborhood pub and a much more genteel establishment catering to the appetites of Valleycliffe locals, loggers, bikers and climbers. You could end up in a fight there too but it would be over loud lycra, hangdogging, rap bolting, excessive posing, hitting on someone's girlfriend or wife or arguing with a logger (who could be an Indian).
Just For the Record, I have never been drunk, in a fight, or to a bar for that matter either.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2012 - 01:51am PT
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Ya right Bruce!!!!!! ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2012 - 07:45am PT
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Good Morning dry rock bump
Betcha the Milks are nice right now... ;)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Squamish will have dry rock today.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Nice photo mike. Do not, I repeat DO NOT want to know how much time you spend on that one.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2012 - 12:07pm PT
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Actually Luke it's a lot easier with this new bracketing technique/ HDR program!! It's easier and my pics are way better!!!! Yay!! You could do this with your g12 no problem!!!
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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that ap makes things super easy..
mike told me some background info on that last photo, apparently it was a night shot of the chief during a rain storm but after his smart(er then all of us) phone was done with it it came out as a sunset in bishop.
now that is the future of photography...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2012 - 05:21pm PT
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Just to be clear this newest round of pics were taken with my slr but they are actually made up of three separate images....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2012 - 09:02pm PT
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Front page takeover bump
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2012 - 09:23pm PT
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I did pretty good... Just need some allies!!! Go bump some climbing threads Bruce!!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
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Classic Bmacd post from Chief's University Wall Thread
Grand Wall with Hamish was always a blast. We did the route often in the 80's, got it wired pretty good.
Rack:
1 x 1.5 friend
1 x #4 RP
3 X wired stoppers
6 x 1" nylon slings
20 x Carabiners
As in photo below we start Apron Strings Hamish leading. Plug in 1.5 friend 15 feet above belay. Hamish runs it out to the Apron Strings crux where he places #4 RP. When rope pays out completely I put on the day pack and start climbing. By the time I am at the # 4 RP crux, we had figured Hamish was clipping the first bolt on Merci Me, so we were "safe". Simul climb to base of Spilt Pillar if traverse was dry, otherwise belay traverse.
Spilt Pillar - not enough gear on rack for me to lead this pitch - Hamish leads split pillar, 1.5 friend goes in at the bottom, clip two rusty bolts near the fist section. Then Stopper goes into the flake wedged 3/4 way up.
Sword pitch - not enough gear on rack for me to lead this pitch defer to Hamish.
Bolt ladder - my lead, combine slings into etriers type deal, use stoppers for looping over hangerless bolts. Hamish follows bolt ladder, batmans haul line & stepping on bolt hangers. No jumars
Flats to last pitch - simu-climb if dry.
Last pitch - not enough gear on rack for me to safely lead, defer to Hamish. 1.5 friend at start of undercling - run it out to Dance platform
approximate time to Dance - 75 to 95 minutes - Hamish would know our best time. But it was never about making the fastest time, more about having it go smoothly. Often this was a spontaneous decision to climb Grand after a day of cragging
I was just lucky to be along for the ride ....
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1159510/University-Wall-second-free-ascent
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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fortune kitchen or fortune kitten?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Ha-That is the question Oplanax.
Anyone get some Squamish granite today? I managed to get a few classics in the sun.
Here's Dale taking the draws off one of my fav Bluff clip ups!
I'll let u guys point out the name..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2012 - 01:48am PT
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Nice!! That's pretty funny. It's almost the same pic I posted last week!! Too easy... I'll let someone else ID
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Ok here's a few more iPhone supertoprope photos while i'm at it.
Alex on AC
Brian on my fav papoose rig
Chris on i think the top of slot machine but it could be something higher up- Note gravel pit in background :-)
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Nice little TR, brownie. Classic NW style. Rain? Yeah, so what?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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There's a darn good reason why we always used to go nailing in the rain.
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Good times... good TR....so.... siiiick.
Here's one of my amigo Marc gettin' all wet n' sh%t up on the Slab.
Really sick.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Cheers Ryand, I'd be keen to hit up Chek soon...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nice TR Kieran, your writing always keeps my attention. Almost enough to join on a mission but I think I'm with Bruce on this one!
What's next, I think we're s'posed to get 20mm or so tonight so snake should be prime tomorrow:-)
Edit- just shoot me an email fishboy when ur down
Edit 2- gf tell me about food frenzy please, who came up with that name?!
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Always climb in control, never fall. Those were the mantras we truly lived by when we tied in with Hamish.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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You guys should be sharpening your picks, the ice is coming
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
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Super rad tr Kieran! Rain is the new
sun!!! ;) I hope you've been getting out this week!!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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It was -3c all day at 1000m. The ice is doing its best but has a way to go just yet...
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Mike, we should do an Angels Crest in the rain mission, can't let Luke have all the fun!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
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let's do it sunday dude!!!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sunday may be invalid - it's supposed to be decent weather.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mike, we should do an Angels Crest in the rain mission,
If I hadn't lived there for twenty years, I'd think you guys were sick.
But I understand.
After it's been raining forever, and you know that all there will be in the future is more rain, you can enter a separate reality. I can remember climbing Grandaddy overhang one winter "because it's an overhang, man. It'll be dry."
Yeah, right. Sort of. It took me over an hour to nail the second pitch in a sleet storm while Steve hung in a waterfall.
We were magnificently stupid, and it is gratifying to see that the tradition continues.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2012 - 01:04am PT
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 8, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
Sunday may be invalid - it's supposed to be decent weather.
Hence the joke sir! ;) it will be plenty wet in spots I'm sure which should provide a nice challenge.. Hopefully it won't be too busy either... ;)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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We were magnificently stupid, and it is gratifying to see that the tradition continues.
Hehehehe this is one of the best sentences I've read on this thread in some time.
Edit-
yes he's calling u rain climbers stupid, but only based on his past stupidity so u can't hold it against him. Beautiful.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
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Lol! I guess when you really want to climb, you just go. Something tells me testing the limits has something to do with it too.
Hey Ryand I heard you got out with Kieran the other day??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2012 - 09:53pm PT
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classic special k...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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I don't know why everyone is opting to aid, rain & consider even ice climbing. Had 3 days of climbing dry Squamish stone in the beautiful sun this week. Mike, yep me & Kieran had a good time yesterday for sure, he's psyched, I like it. Hopefully we'll get out again soon so long as light Luke doesn't give him AID tonight.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2012 - 10:39pm PT
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light Luke
lol.. I been stuck at work... looks nice this weekend!
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Nov 10, 2012 - 11:42am PT
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Forecast says snow mixed with rain for Sunday arvo, we should aim for that Mike if I can escape my 1 month old future climber....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2012 - 11:47am PT
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Sounds good?? ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2012 - 12:50pm PT
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But Bruce, I'm skeeerd!! :) sounds adventurous that's for sure :)
Allright.. Screw this I'm going climbing...
Someone should point a web cam at the grand... Anyone interested?? Rig it up a tree somewhere with a cell modem?? Solar panel to charge it??
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MH2
climber
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Nov 10, 2012 - 05:22pm PT
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I want a community heli-cam. We can prioritize use the same way astronomers share a remote telescope. Every so often it flies down to a mountain bike enthusiast who recharges it by a few minute's pedaling.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2012 - 07:19pm PT
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Smoke bluffs live feed!!
Tantalus lookout
Regular Tim Horton's style...
Squatters rights 5.7
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2012 - 07:24pm PT
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Sandra throws her shoes on at funarama
Doing her best "rapper" impression
Nina, Heather and Kyle at funarama
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
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Btw Andy I love the quad cam idea!!!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2012 - 09:57pm PT
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Just another fall day in the woods...
Kyle decided to solo the 5.5 chimney..
So I followed him up it...
"Summit photo"
On the way down to penny lane..
Cruising by the hangover
Nina chillin on the bench
Squamish sunset....
Just another day of cragging in the sea to sky!!
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Nov 10, 2012 - 10:48pm PT
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So we decided to push the push to a siege. Turns out it gets dark pretty early this time of year, which makes climbing multiple pitches a day hard. TKC took longer than anticipated for the roof pitch, and got scared of bathooking in the dark. I got frustrated with the slow progress, as I was comparing aiding to free climbing, and Brownie just didn't care.
So we came down. However the high point is fixed, and luckily there aren't usually lineups for this route.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 10, 2012 - 11:07pm PT
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So we came down. However the high point is fixed, and luckily there aren't usually lineups for this route.
Lightweights.
Wayno and I are about to head north. It's 8 pm now, so I figure we'll be parking the car below the Chief about midnight. Probably take us a couple of hours to hike to base and jug your lines, so what's that? About 02:00? Somtehing like. And given that you guys probably won't get up until 08:00, and then you'll spend another two hours over breakfast, and at least an hour after that just getting yourselves to the base, we'll have plenty of time.
In fact, I reckon we'll probably be up and over the top by the time you guys get anywhere near your fixed ropes, so everything will probably look just like you left it, and you won't even be able to tell that we aced you.
F*#kin' kids...
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Nov 11, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
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BIg Mike, that's a lovely set of fall photos. Thanks!
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Nov 11, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
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cloggin da feed, smoke bluffs LIVE!!!!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 11, 2012 - 05:09pm PT
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We always used to do that in winter, if you could only afford single ski touring boots. Thin sock, plastic bag, warm thick sock. Kept your feet warm. Only downside is that the inner sock got damp, and had to be dried/changed daily.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Nov 11, 2012 - 05:31pm PT
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up a 5.0 we go!
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Nov 11, 2012 - 06:42pm PT
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victory pose(rs)
nathan bear roasting a kid-kabob
i can't believe we're not on drugs
mooommmmyyyyy!!!??
nate on da traverse
jam da jam, pull da lip
whiskey and syrup
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MH2
climber
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Nov 11, 2012 - 08:30pm PT
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i can't believe we're not on drugs
From the era of John Stannard in Life Magazine:
"I'm high on life!"
"So was I, but my dealer got busted."
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 11, 2012 - 08:39pm PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2012 - 09:16pm PT
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Chief live feed! Me and nick are standing on top of angels crest!!!! What day!! Too damn cold up here.. Gotta run!!
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Nov 11, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
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there isn't a photo in that post, doesn't count.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2012 - 10:20pm PT
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Here you go Kieran Bear!! It was too cold up top!!
Nick at the top of the chimney
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 11, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
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i can't believe we're not on drugs
I Don't believe your not on drugs!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 11, 2012 - 11:21pm PT
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I'm telling you guys, you need a stash of Ghost's Full Conditions Stout for those frosty summits and bivis. After all, he is one of you. Buncha frosty hosers. Doing it in style. Way better than those sunny J-tree mass top-rope parties and the ilk.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 12, 2012 - 12:04am PT
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There was climbable ice but I don't know if it was protectable. Seeing as these things top out 1/5 of the way up the face you'd best be good at downclimbing if the ice is too thin for Abalakovs.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2012 - 12:05am PT
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Having summit beers now at the warm pub!! It wasn't epic but it was close!! No crampons Bruce.. Too funny.. More later
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Nov 12, 2012 - 05:49am PT
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The pain is setting in now....my toes are aching so much, it feels like someone smashed each nail with a hammer. I cant sleep.
And the rest of my my body...jebus. Too intense.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Nov 12, 2012 - 10:41am PT
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Poor FIshboy... If you would have just stayed home none of us would have to read your complaining.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Nov 12, 2012 - 11:06am PT
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And if you just stayed at home I wouldn't have to read of endless bails.
;)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Nov 12, 2012 - 11:32am PT
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Bails!?! We ran out of maple syrup and forgot our poppies. how do you expect a team of Canadian recreationalists to weather a rememberance day storm without syrup and poppies...
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Nov 12, 2012 - 11:48am PT
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^^^haha^^^ You're right more syrup wouldn't have changed a thing to us light weight wannabes.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 12, 2012 - 11:48am PT
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That's a good ? Luke. Maybe we should subscribe to fishboys tactics, if he's a true aussie i reckon that him & Mike had some vegimite in the bag :-) Good send boys!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2012 - 11:54am PT
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Ugh. If he did he didn't share any! I woulda barfed!!!
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Nov 12, 2012 - 11:58am PT
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I hate that shite, looks like the first poo a baby does.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 12, 2012 - 11:59am PT
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OK, I admit it. I stowed away in one of their haulbags.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 12, 2012 - 12:08pm PT
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I hate that shite, looks like the first poo a baby does.
Haha so gross
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2012 - 12:19pm PT
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And being a new father Nick knows exactly what that looks like ;)
Anders hahahaha! No wonder they were so heavy!!! ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2012 - 01:12pm PT
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The vegimite or the baby extract?
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Nov 12, 2012 - 01:36pm PT
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The Acrophobes
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 12, 2012 - 01:59pm PT
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Yea that vegimite is some nasty stuff for sure. I got a few mates that are somehow powered pretty good by that infant fecal matter, seems to work for em'. Just trying to help figure out why Big Mike & Fishboy are so much harder than our bedtime story heros the 3 bears.
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MH2
climber
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Nov 12, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
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Wow! We do have cameras on the Chief.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Nov 12, 2012 - 02:17pm PT
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The biggest Mike
Before it started snowing
Somewhere around the 6th pitch?
Looking up at the Acrophobes
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 12, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
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Damn! Looks like you guys wound up on a real climb.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 12, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
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That's awesome! I'm just fartin around Bruce, gettin ready to grab the goon spoon & go dig a few post holes in the rain:-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2012 - 03:39pm PT
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Thanks gf, yeah I brought some liner gloves but really should have brought a decent winter pair. I was taking them off to climb so they wouldn't get wet, and would keep me warm at belays..
That pic kinda makes it look like I led the Acrophobes pitch which is not true...
I dunno about harder or smarter, but definitely we share the same stoke!!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 12, 2012 - 04:02pm PT
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Good grief, Charlie Brown! An ascent of the Angel's Crest in full conditions. What's next?
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Nov 12, 2012 - 08:25pm PT
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I had full winter gloves plus soft shell ones and it worked well. Chalk! Ha, non of that.
My toes were so cold though....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2012 - 09:22pm PT
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hmmm... sounds like fun.. yesterday definitely could have been more fun if i was better prepared. i had thick socks on under my rock shoes which worked quite well as my feet weren't really cold until the second to last pitch standing on the damn whale's back!!
GF- fish yanked on a couple pieces at least each of the upper pitches but I managed to free everything until that damn slot on the 10a and all the face nubbins were snow covered. I still almost did it, but whipped and yanked fish out of his comfy belay spot behind the wall. next time i grabbed the gear and got the F off that thing. otherwise it was free with a couple takes on the last two pitches.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 13, 2012 - 01:16am PT
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This shite needs to be on the front page bump.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Nov 13, 2012 - 02:56pm PT
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...and all this time I thought Bigmike and Fishboy were softcock welterweight wankers too light for a solid adventure..
Bump for a badass ascent!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2012 - 04:47pm PT
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Thank Luke!
gf
climber
Nov 13, 2012 - 05:07am PT
hey mike -yeah i didn't want to ask about those moves on the last pitch -kind of figured it would come out in the tale....
nice one though!
No worries gf. I considered that before I posted it, but for me it's such a small part of this story. The most important thing for me was that we faced adversity and conquered it. I can't remember the last time I wasn't sure we would be able to send one way or another.... Tr coming very soon. I'm hoping tonight!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 13, 2012 - 05:19pm PT
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Per ardua ad astra!
(Referring either to the climb, or the report - maybe both.)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2012 - 08:38pm PT
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Thanks Anders! That's gold!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Nov 13, 2012 - 08:43pm PT
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Tell us the frikken story already!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 13, 2012 - 08:49pm PT
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I can't remember the last time I wasn't sure we would be able to send one way or another....
Not being sure you'll send is one thing...
Not being sure you'll live is another thing entirely.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Nov 13, 2012 - 09:03pm PT
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How about Mikes new avatar.. Frosty, whats the deal with that!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 13, 2012 - 09:13pm PT
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Ask Farouk
Edit-!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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MH2
climber
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Nov 13, 2012 - 09:37pm PT
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Frosty? I thought it was a teddy bear in formal wear.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 03:19am PT
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HaHaHa.... ya... check out my Farouk??????? thread. :)
I saw that at a gig and had to have it as my new avatar.. you like it Ryan?? :)
Not being sure you'll send is one thing...
Not being sure you'll live is another thing entirely.
Exactly and at that point going up seemed the fastest way off. It worked out. Luckily. We knew we were pushing it. It seems pretty silly in retrospect. Skill, Luck and Determination came through for us.
I posted the tale in a TR so it doesn't get lost in the matrix that is squamish photos and stories. Sorry it is so late but i hope you will find that the extra time I spent on it is worth it.
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Great-White-North-Angels-Crest-full-conditions-ascent/t11759n.html
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Nov 14, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
|
So back in June of this year I climbed my first multi pitch after 15 years on the couch, up this world class 13,000 ft. alpine peak the Yanks call a "crag" for some strange reason ....
Things went well in spite of my rusty route finding skilz and my "fresh out of the box" TC Pros from Wilsons Eastside Sports that felt like a pair of alpine roller skates and only a single skinny 7.5 mm 60 meter cord. We established a classic new 2,000' line we called "Erotic Venusian Blind Nubian Princess Dancer" 5.14d R **
I even managed to have Bruce Kay safely back to our bivy site at Second Lake by 2:30 pm, just in time for his afternoon nap.
He didn't like getting his picture taken very much
My first Sierras route and I am hooked now. Many thanks to BK for the adventure !
The next Day BK soloed Cathedral and Matthes Crest. The day following that we climbed the reg route on Fairview Dome in 2.5 hours, after hiking halfway into Mt Conness and then bailing to Tenaya lake for a couple six packs on the beach pre-Fairview.
Over 3,000 feet of rock & nearly 30 miles of hiking in three excellent days for two guys both over 50 years old.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Nov 14, 2012 - 11:11pm PT
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If Bruce had a better pillow he wouldn't be so grumpy.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 14, 2012 - 11:12pm PT
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Way to get after it Bruce's, those sierras are good drugs. I've seen that dude who's crying in the sleeping bag around town before. Gonna have to sneak up on him next time:-)
Edit- what temple route u guys do??
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 02:15am PT
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Dueling Bruces.
Bada bing bing, bing bing, bing bing bing.
Cousin Blinky says you got a purty mouth.
;^)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2012 - 02:34am PT
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Very nice report and photos Bruce!! That look from BK is classic! ;) sounds like you had good fun.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 15, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
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Bruce, I dun keerected yer post to dat udder plitical tred for ya:
Bookworm and you will be happy to know that our right wing provincial government is doing its best to bleed our provincial parks system of the required funding and human resources it needs via lowering taxation of corporations and higher incomes and depending on wildly oscillating resource royalties, which of course they low ball to start with.
Sounds familiar? If you deliberately make it weak, you strengthen the case for an alternate system - privatization.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 15, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
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Pretty good but not a real mountain. No mosquito's, Moss, Mud, cedars, glaciers, slide alder, devils club, old logging equipment, rednecks, sasquatchs, Ogopogos, shitty weather, cross border drug runners, Sledders or BCMCers so it hardly rates as a mountain but it was a pretty good rock climb,
This describes almost every mountain in the Sierra
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 15, 2012 - 09:29pm PT
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Thanks, Bruce. I wonder why there isn't a public meeting in Squamish?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Nov 16, 2012 - 12:17am PT
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Yeah, that's very disappointing about the heli stuff. I had REALLY hoped that they'd phase it out. Maybe it's not too late. Fill in the comment forms, people. Deadline is Jan 10 but the sooner the better.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2012 - 12:54am PT
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Whistler Blackcomb is a major player in the Heli Business.... They own Whistler Heli now... I very much doubt they are willing to let it go. It will be a hard road to fight. Especially with the current political climate.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Nov 18, 2012 - 11:56am PT
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Got an extra ticket for the spearhead soirée this Thursday, if anyone plans on going but hasn't bought one yet, let me know.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2012 - 12:54pm PT
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Sorry Anders, I couldn't resist!
This locker manip had me in stitches yesterday...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 18, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
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Hey Hot Cherry Bendover is for sale if any u OG's got an extra 3/4 mil layin around? It even comes with a house!
^^^ oh jeez that photo is hilarious!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2012 - 02:35pm PT
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Damn good lookin out! Maybe the access committee could pick it up and start a hostel!!
Ya. It's even funnier in context. Check out MH's teddy bear thread..
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Nov 19, 2012 - 12:56pm PT
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No bites in the teddy bear thread, figure I better reports this one!
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MH2
climber
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Nov 19, 2012 - 01:29pm PT
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That teddy's looking like it thinks its hooked another pigeon.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2012 - 03:37pm PT
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Hahaha. I love that pic! Relic's new BFF! ;)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 19, 2012 - 04:04pm PT
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Oh, so that's how Relic has been dealing with his post California withdrawal.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Nov 24, 2012 - 12:48am PT
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Hahaha that relic shot kills me every time I see it. I was holding onta that pic since Natedogs birthday.
I don't usually do request numbers...unless of coarse I've been asked to do so.
As requested by Mike here is a brief report of the Croft presentation last night.
The Spearrhead Soirée
The evening started with Jacqui Hudson(I think) presentation, she had a great collection of photos put together of her and some friends doing some bass ass ski traverse in AK, I think it ways from Haines to Cordova, possibly vice versa or I might even be wrong all together. Some where in there, I'm sure of it, they climbed mount Logan and skied down the other side.
Jayson Faulkner did a couple speeches and laid out the plans for the 3 hut system in the Spearhead, and brought everyone up to pace on where they're at.
The dude introducing Mr. Croft reminisced of a previous Croft presentation in which Peter was asked afterwards what the scariest route he had ever done was. Apparently he answered White Lightning.
Triconni was sitting in the front, left of Center. His haircut is unmistakeable from behind, I wonder if he waxed his noging, sure is shiny. Relic should grow a doo like that.
Peter started by telling us that Greg is his best friend, and that they've done tons of climbing together with out many epics. Then went on to tell us the first two times he went out with Don Serl he was absolutely certain he was going to die. One of those stories has been posted at the start of this thread(good luck finding it) . He showed an awe inducing set of slides of the trio doing the first complete traverse of the Waddington range. It was frikin rad.
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MH2
climber
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Nov 24, 2012 - 01:05am PT
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Appreciate your post, kid, assist to Mike.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Nov 24, 2012 - 02:15am PT
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A wonderful slide show by Peter, for sure. Good evening (but expensive: I went overboard on the silent auction).
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2012 - 02:55am PT
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Thank you sir! I was wondering how it went! I wanted to go but the mountain sapped my energy yesterday so I am glad I decided against it. Climbing this weekend maybe?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 24, 2012 - 03:31am PT
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Drying up as we speak...........
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Nov 24, 2012 - 11:01am PT
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If it's drying up as Ryan says, it'll be no good then.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 24, 2012 - 12:01pm PT
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Not to worry Fishboy. Conditions look prime later in the week for some Squishy climbing.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 25, 2012 - 01:50am PT
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Fu[k ya!!!
Edit so gnar!!!! He went up one time and noticed cracks and then the entire face slid. So sketchy!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 25, 2012 - 04:20am PT
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I thought everyone might enjoy these pics I took last week.
What lake is this?
Notice the snowcats at work.
Alright alright.. Back on topic. Here are some shots that are shockingly similar to the Iphone versions I put up on our funarama day a couple weeks ago. They are wider and I think they have better colour.
Funarama Crag
Sandra rapping of squatter's rights with the sheriff's badge prominent in the background.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 25, 2012 - 11:40am PT
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Green Lake.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 25, 2012 - 11:57am PT
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MH for the win!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2012 - 07:35pm PT
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Cloggin' da feed!
Everyone was at the bluffs today!!
Jim Sinclair hangin with Kyle
Peder has his Ushba but managed not to use it much...
Ryand and Kieran were chillin with Luke.
I even saw bearbreeder and mh2 at one point!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2012 - 08:56pm PT
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Ryand got on Crime of the Century
He sent it. First time he's gotten the redpoint I believe?
Luke and Rick chillin on the benches.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Nov 26, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
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Damn you guys shoulda gave me a ring..................
I was in the boulders. Dang.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 26, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
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Cool Photos Big Mike! Except I'm a ghost in that one of me an Kieran?? Real fun day good to see a bunch of supertopropers & lurkers out there.
Big deal drinking at 230 Relic, your a grown up, should be doing that everyday. Luke is just a kid & look at him, at the crag he was drinking beer & eating roast beef curtains with Yorkshire & gravy at noon today, chasing the whole deal with rapid fire joints. I woulda been black out too but had to drive to whistler after climbing :-)
Forest dry?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2012 - 10:35pm PT
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Ya Relic! Call me next time you in town buddy!!
Peder's mountaineers coil.
Kieran on Power Windows 11a
He took a couple small whips on the first bolt.
On the runout aret.
Jim was unimpressed by our lack of ground anchors and helmets..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2012 - 02:19am PT
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Hahahaha.. Coils have fallen out it seems. Some nasty rumor about them causing the rope to twist and kink. The kids these days use butterfly coils typically... Rope bags are a nice cragging option too...
It was the day for Crime redpoint attempts it seems and Kyle went for his.
He squeaked it out.
Then Marc Andre cruises up with his shoes and chalk bag and calmly jumps on it...
It was the first time he fourth classed it.
He got Kyle to leave up his rope so he could swing over the wet patch to penny lane and finish up. Then he had to get down somehow so he broke out the duffersitz
LOL Marc you only did it because I mentioned it before the solo didn't you!! :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2012 - 02:44am PT
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Oh ya Bruce those bluescreews look handy!!!
LOL!!!!!!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 27, 2012 - 02:47am PT
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Mike, bringin it back to life here. More nice shots, I like the one of Kieran on the face of power windows, very nice thirds. Hopefully we'll see u guys back there tomorrow.
Nice one Kyle!
Edit- Bruce & Tami I'll bring you both up to speed on the newest RCD(rope carrying device), at the sport cliff lately it seems that large reusable bags from trendy stores like Lulu or Ikea have proven to be the most efficient- & cool way to carry your rope. These are often anchored down as well to stop dogs & strollers from knocking them over & spilling the chord everywhere.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Nov 27, 2012 - 10:22am PT
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What a great Sunday Monday combo at penny, lots of familiar faces, lots of proud sends, and in my case lots belay pump (I'm so light, I get a good pump on just holding the rope).
I have my doubts as to whether the bear even left the crag Sunday night. A creature like peder moves on instinct; like if he keeps telling me and Kieran he might donate us his pin rack, we'll keep belaying him.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Nov 27, 2012 - 11:03am PT
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Damn, wish I had known sh#t was going down, I'd have come up. Bastards didn't message me! Instead, I was busy trying to kill myself on the icy death slopes at Cypress.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Nov 27, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
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That's classic Special Kay.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Nov 27, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
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Hey RyanD, Curtis and I are meeting up in a bit to hit more apron boulders, come by if you can.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2012 - 06:17pm PT
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Don't worry Tami, just gimme a call and bring your shoes and harness. I have everything we need ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2012 - 08:16pm PT
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Ya Jim. Not too shabby eh?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 27, 2012 - 08:57pm PT
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Nice video Mike, I like the soundtrack.
Relic, thanks I had some things to do today sadly but am sending u an email now. Hope u n Cortez had a good session.
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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Nov 27, 2012 - 09:45pm PT
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sunshine chimney center has a new tenant...
The Kid was scared on the 2nd 10d pitch of Two Rats and a Titmouse ..
Kyle on Cream of White Mice Direct 10d..
(the funny lookin potato i hauled up Two Rats and a Titmouse took this photo)
edit: most of Two Rats and a Titmouse
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MH2
climber
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Nov 27, 2012 - 09:52pm PT
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Brave pig and good emoting in the other photos, too.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 27, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
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Nice pics Kieran, u guys make it up ride the bullet after?? Love that pitch.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Nov 27, 2012 - 10:02pm PT
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No photo cred. Sheesh, I risked my life for that photo and Kieran takes the credit. Hmm.
At the second belay I get a txt from my co-worker. "Umm did you go to P.E.I. For lunch"
Hahahha.
Another great day.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 27, 2012 - 11:36pm PT
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Nice vid ,soundtrack. Good lead RyanD and who was the soloist? Bye the way Jim an iphone mike is for recording sound, get with the times.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 28, 2012 - 12:00am PT
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Hey Harry not me in the vid, that's Kyle. The scrambler is Marc-Andre. Hehe iPhone Mike:-)
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 28, 2012 - 12:48am PT
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It's clear Bruce that Don Whillans was into self-flagellation. His harness proves it.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2012 - 12:51am PT
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Lol! That's too funny.
I was hoping you guys might approve of the soundtrack. Two classic tunes!!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Nov 29, 2012 - 09:51am PT
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The rain is back... Go figure.
Was great high pressure system while it lasted, Kieran and I milked the last of the drystone with a lap up 'The Squamish Buttress' yesterday on my lunch break.
Now that the distracting dry rocks and sunshine are hidden in the clouds for bit hopefully I can catch up on work,
Since I don't have a photo from yesterday, I'll share this one.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2012 - 12:09pm PT
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Kieran has one. Post it up brownie!! Nice one boys! Was it all dry?
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 30, 2012 - 01:40am PT
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Not Squamish but this will happen to the pillar one day. In the first vid, although I cannot translate schweizer deutsch I'm going to go out on a limb and say their saying"lets get outahere before the peak we are standing on goes!They must of been shaking in their boots literally![Click to View YouTube Video] [Click to View YouTube Video]
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Hey Big Mike,
Heads up to you, Luke, Aislin, Relic and the crew.
Ms Chief and I are hosting our annual Solstice Bonfire in 20 days and your all invited.
Huge fire rain or shine, you can drink as much as you want if you promise not to drive.
BK, Mighty, bmacd, Hamish and the rest of you frost back hosers, yer invited.
Later eh?
PB
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2012 - 09:27pm PT
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What??? Sounds like a roaring good time!!! Especially considering the potential significance of the day!! I will be honoured to attend!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Oh Yeah, that's right, the end of the world.
What better place to be than shroomin by a bonfire with yer pals when the sky falls in.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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That sounds like fun - a winter solstice bonfire and get together. What should we bring in the way of food, drink, logs (for the fire), etc?
On the evening of the 21st, to be exact?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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No need for any logs Anders. The big guy gets a half cord of fir raging with a half gallon of diesel and there's enough heat to warm up the smoke bluffs. It's a roaster.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Yes.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sadly, the full moon isn't until the 28th. No chance of seeing this:
The exact combination of winter solstice, sunset and (visible) full moon would be magical. This photo was from December 9th last year, which was close but no cigar. I got a similar one on December 1st, 2009, which again was in the hockey rink. I wonder if I'll live long enough to get the trifecta?
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Genius!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2012 - 10:33pm PT
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Ya. Nice photo Anders!!!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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It would be nice to have a respite from the deluge but... it hasn't stopped us yet.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Saw this when walking the dog yesterday in the rainy forest. It would appear that some climbers are standing up to the rain, fighting back so to speak but......Yea the tarp didn't do nuthin but make me laugh. A for effort though!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2012 - 11:16pm PT
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Hahahaha sweet...
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Thank you for the invite Perry, we will be there no doubt about it.
Tami at a social event. Ya right, I'm gonna go ahead and call bullsh#t.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Re: solistice party - Thanks Perry, Can I crash in your cabin that night ?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2012 - 05:19pm PT
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Inching ever closer to Rolf's 5000 prediction!!
;)...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Heads up to you, Luke, Aislin, Relic and the crew...
BK, Mighty, bmacd, Hamish and the rest of you frost back hosers, yer invited...
I don't see my name in that list...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Yeah, David, cos ya live in Murrica
Yeah, that could be it. But why do you suppose your name wasn't there either?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Speaking of those not formally invited, I bet Nate is feeling a bit left out too.
Look what you did perry, hurting feelings and sh#t.
Nate is probably still a little shaken up from our most recent attempt at zorros
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2012 - 11:28pm PT
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He said gang ... That left it pretty open...
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sounds pretty informal to me.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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No need for any logs Anders. The big guy gets a half cord of fir raging with a half gallon of diesel and there's enough heat to warm up the smoke bluffs. It's a roaster.
Perry making a white man's fire? I don't think so.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Big Mike,
I assumed Nate would know he's part of the crew and is invited.
Ghost may have fled south but he's still a frostback hoser at heart so he's in too.
As far as the size of the fire goes, hey I'm part wagon burner so you can do some extrapolating.
It won't be a smudge for fending off skeeters!
Based on invites and responses, this might have the makings of an unruly debacle.
Thank God Mighty will be there to provide moral compass!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2012 - 02:25am PT
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I figured Perry, that's what I meant. I'm going to invite Kyle and Nina also and I'm hoping Fish Boy will come out too. Maybe Ryand and Kieran?
Maybe if it is the end of the world we can finally corrupt Anders ;)
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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I've been in Nepal for the last 5 weeks, and am slowly catching up on the 'news'.
A big hand to Big Mike and Fishboy for tagging the Crest in such ugly conditions. We'll make mountaineers out of these lads yet!
This is a pic of me, with the Acrophobes behind/below, taken on the same afternoon that our good friend Bill Sharp drowned while canoeing in the Capilano. A sad day.
I was wearing most of a white plastic 'mac' and a US army surplus helmet. Styles change......
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Great pic heinous hamish :p
Was that the 2nd ascent?
What was up in Nepal, got any pictures?
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
|
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Ah, I did assume I was part of the crew, so no worries. I just finished reading this thread from the beginning, for the third time and reminiscing of our past adventures. Chief, thanks for the invite; I look forward to it!
Luke; not so shaken up from Zorros, matter of fact, was thinking about appropriating your aiding thingies and going to finish it off meself :P
I also noticed that back when this thread first got going, Luke's spelling and grammar was waaaaay better.
Edit: As well, my wife is leaving me for family back home over the holidays, so if the world is gonna end, might as well end it in good company.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
|
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Hamish's pictures should be required viewing in forestry courses. Those little trees really do grow over 50 years!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
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Awesome photo Hamie!
Sorry to hear about your friend.....
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Solo says "Luke's spelling and grammar was waaaay better".
May I suggest that Tami might be responsible for that?
Kiddin' :) H.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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That's awesome Luke are you building a shed or something?!
Looks like its time to pound out some FAs.
I like Luke's grammar, it cracks me up. It has been a gradual decline here for his spellllling although on his blog it's much better. U bringin that rack on the Chief's challenge? I'm sure some of those pieces have been in some of those pitches somewhere along the way?????
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Is that a donation to your habitat for depressed freeclimbers in the rainy season fundraiser.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Yo Bruce, yes you may borrow some blades.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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I'm sick and tired of that face crack on the sword, gonna hammer out some finger locks in the security of the corner.p
The sword direct.
Does anyone have any beta how to aid past the fats if they're too wet to free climb!
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Should take bomber hooks the whole way!
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MH2
climber
|
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The flats too wet? I think you know that doesn't happen. Not on such a well-travelled route. Rubber sticks fine on clean wet rock and holds up there are veddy clean.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2012 - 01:00pm PT
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I'd be more worried about if they were icy!
Nice to hear from you Hamish! Wow you guys did Angel's in December eh? Hardcore! I bet you guys encountered way more ice than us!
As to mountaineering I do it all the time with a snowboard in hand! Maybe if it was something like this were proposed...
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Nice photo Hamie, THAT is hardcore.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
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Bump for the kid! Gonna send the grand today?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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When does "climbing" calendar winter end Bruce?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Heading up do to try momentarily.
FYI Bruce you're sponsoring the effort not the success.
Thanks for your contribution.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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I love to go a-wandering
My snowboard in my hand,
And as I ride I always sing
"I love this snowy land!"
Fah do lee
Fah do lah
etc.
Sound of Music, right?
:)
Great opening day at WH2O yesterday. Lots of REAL interior pow.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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It seems that we need both a correction and a clarification.
Correction. The date on the photo above should read Dec,1961 not 1962. BK was still a cute [?] newborn.
Clarification. Dick and I were climbing the Acrophobes, not the Crest. Although the caption says "Hamie and the Acrophobes", I should have been more specific.
The Upper Crest was not climbed until the following summer, when Les MacDonald made the FA. He was so pumped by his new route that he invited me back the next w/e for the second ascent. Fun, fun.
Several years later I made the third ascent with Roger Marshall, a feisty 'working-class' Brit, who was always great company. Sadly he later died while attempting to solo the north face of Everest.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2012 - 02:03pm PT
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It's just a straight donation. I just donated thirty bucks towards the cause. That's 3 bucks for every lead pitch and if he succeeds I will donate another 20 for a total of fifty. If not i expect at least a couple pitches at the gym or cragging somewhere.
Hamie- Yes quite. Except for interspersed with moments of "Oh sh!t I better make this turn or I'm gunna die!" And going exceedingly fast while floating on a giant flowing pillow...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
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Wow! Cool story Hamie! Thanks for that!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Cruised by theChief before work today, in hopes of providing a quick live report & snap a few of Luke's ascent. The wall was desolate, I called Luke to see wtf was going on or if was in need of assistance to drag something up there & his phone was off, I hope u guys haven't been had :-)
Luckily there was some boulderer friends around trying to embrace the blobs with their heels so the 7min trip from the couch was not a total loss as some sort of climbing action was observed.
Edit- Hamie cool history there, cheers!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Got shut down at mercy me. started up the first 3 bolts of the old bolt ladder and the fourth and fifth bolts were broken. Could have macgyverd a stick clip past the two broken bolts but was scared of the 51 year old bolts and anchor.
Tried out a new system on the first two pitchs;
[Click to View YouTube Video]
It worked awesome.
So I'm thinking of heading back up tomorrow with a bolt kit to replace a couple bolts of the baldwin/cooper ladder and the anchors.
What do you guys think? Wasted effort?
Should I cough up the the dough and get a pass to the Grandwall BOuldering Co-op?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Haha nice Luke, call me in the am if u want a catch to get off the ground, or if u don't feel like hanging out in the wet, cold, lonesome ill be drinkin tea in the boulders all day, climbing with my heels.
As for the gym pass........
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Seriously no ones going to publicly chime in on the idea of replacing a couple rivets and the station on the Baldwin Cooper, to make it passable?!?
I've privately talked to two anonymous climbers, one who has used the bolt ladder in the past and offered t supply machine head rivets for the effort.
The other climber, who as far as I know has not used said ladder, has informed me that its a bad ideas and I would destroying something of historic value.
I'm going to make some tuning folks. When I get back I hope some of you have spoken up.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2012 - 11:19am PT
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Something of historic value is in the rock, not on the rock. Pull the bolts and make sure they go to the right people i say. Then the historic route can also be used again!
Edit: 666 left till 5000....
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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"I hope some of you have spoken up."
Tuning folks? Well it's a tough call, but I have to go with......
1. Ian and Sylvia
2. Joan Baez
3. Pete Seeger
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The Grand Wall bolt ladder is recognized in the park's master plan (or rock climbing strategy) as of historical significance, and not to be tampered with. Replacing missing bolts, preferably in the existing holes with something like the original units, would likely be the way to go. It'll take a few decades to replicate the rusty nail atmosphere, and don't leave hangers on the bolts - it's way more fun to loop parachute cord over them. Nuts on most of the bolts would be OK, but leave about 5% without, and a few bent down a bit for extra cord-looping fun.
The Vancouver Rock Climbing Group at its fundraiser for Habitat for Humanity last night, at Cliffhanger in Vancouver. Last week they were at Cliffhanger in Coquitlam, next week at the Hive, a bouldering gym. They were having fun, and thought the event was going well.
The guy hanging upside down with the red & white hat on is Joe, the organizer.
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'Mo
Big Wall climber
Squamish, BC
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Hello,
I am responding to your opinion on replacing hardware on the Baldwin Cooper bolt ladder. My opinion is to not do this. I believe that the old ladder is of historical value and I get a kick out of looking at it, I would however find it quite distasteful to see shimmering new hardware on this section of wall.
No one uses the bolt ladder anymore, and I believe you are using it because the thought of using the Merci Me approach is unpalatable: soaking, run out 5.8, by yourself, is an intimidating prospect! Although I think an adept aid climber could navigate past the busted rivets with some sort of cheater stick and I do agree that you shouldn't be hanging yourself and your wall rig off an original anchor, I do think you could bypass this anchor and use another modern anchor on this section of wall with a longer rope and a small pendulum.
It would be different deal if this were a standard pitch on a standard aid route eg (Cannabis Wall)But the Grand Wall has evolved and the use of new bolts on and around it should be considered carefully.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Thanks MH and Mo, going to leave it be,
I got two pitches down, so any one who's doing the 5 buck per pitch donation is in for 10 so far...
Probably gonna get back at it early this week with either a hooking approach, or perhaps a blow torch and my free shoes.
I've tried hookng the second pitch in the rain on my Uncle Bens Ascent but wasn't able to find hook placements with in reach past the second bolt. Maybe a grappling hook on a ski pole will do the trick.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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To wait for dry rock and clear skies, might be the sensible thing to do.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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The Grand Wall bolt ladder is recognized in the park's master plan (or rock climbing strategy) as of historical significance, and not to be tampered with.
Oh, yes, much better to leave the existing crap in place. Any one who uses it might die, but that doesn't matter, does it, because the bible says "Thou must not change Squamish from the way it was thirty years ago" And what the hell, any deaths due to the non-tamper clause will, in time, also have historical significance.
What a load of total bullsh#t.
Sure the Grand Wall ascent has historical significance, but rusting-out quarter-inch split shafts as holy objects? Give me a break.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2012 - 05:50pm PT
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+1000 ghost! It's cerro torre all over again! ;)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Virtually no one uses the initial Grand Wall bolt ladder any more - Luke may be the first in quite some time. It's not a hazard to anyone. Some of the bolts are newer, for example due to more recent routes crossing or overlapping with it. A few are missing. If it isn't needed for climbing, and doesn't pose any harm, why not leave it as it is? It can quietly rust away, and we can recite Greek myths at Perry's next Friday (21st).
Perhaps Luke should be given a bye, and allowed to fix ropes from above on key areas that would otherwise be unclimbable when wet? Although there's snow on Bellygood today, and carrying up eight to ten ropes and the needed gear wouldn't be much fun.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Luke my offer to supply the machine heads to retro the old ladder still stands.
If the Balldwin Cooper bolts are so sacred the the ones on the pillar would not have gotten chopped, nor would Perry have replaced bolts on the upper bolt ladder to facilitate his lieback, and then the Squamish guides replaced how ever many else ?
The only precedent here is hypocrisy. The statement that they are part of the park master plan is a load of BS.
Fact is, these bolts are now, very dangerous, and were then, a lame ass Atrocity. Truly Squamishes own version of the Maestri route on Cerro Torre
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Here's a novel concept.
It's called consideration of context.
I pulled the 1/4" bolts out from beside the Pillar after watching way too may people run for them in the days of hexes, then take horrifying lobs onto them with nothing backing them up.
By the way, they came out with shocking ease.
With the advent of SLCDs, the bolts had outlived their need.
I was also explicit that it would be reasonable (though unnecessary) to replace the originals with 3/8 stainless. So far no one's done it and probably won't.
As has been flogged ad nauseum, Baldwin and Cooper took some flak for their first ladder.
It's appropriate to make comparison to Maestri's ladders because in 62 the notion of the Diretissema was very much in vogue and Maestri wasn't the only protagonist, the Brandler Hasse on the Cima Grande as example.
All things considered, given the tools of the day and the fact B&C were first, the criticisms directed at them were easy shots from the safety of the bleachers.
With the advent of sticky rubber, better gear and a perspective gained on the big face routes on Middle along with a better sense of the local terrain, the BC ladders were bypassed via Merci Me at 11a A0 and Cruel Shoes 10d by yours truly.
The old ladders have fallen in to disuse and are at best an amusing anachronism and at worst an eyesore. While they have some interesting history, they are not in my view, deserving of designation as historically or culturally significant. It's hard to imagine any climbing artifice left in place worthy of such recognition.
Given my druthers, the remnants of the old ladder would be removed leaving opportunity for a cool free route linking the top of the Flake with Les MacDonald's legendary effort on the upper reaches of that smooth expanse. Conversely, replacing the bolts would be retrograde.
With regard to the bolted lieback into the Flats, as previously thrashed and debated, they were placed long before big cams were available and I suspect even todays #5 Camalots might be a bit small for the leaning off width. Having said that, technology will advance and perspectives change and these contrivances may too outlive their original necessity.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2012 - 08:30pm PT
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I've tried hookng the second pitch in the rain on my Uncle Bens Ascent but wasn't able to find hook placements with in reach past the second bolt. Maybe a grappling hook on a ski pole will do the trick.
You got hosed by Merci Me that time until it dried out too.. What's wrong with having
a wet weather alternative via a bolt ladder which was established on the FA of the wall?
I think it's high time that we went and pulled all that old hardware off the wall and put it where it belongs. In a museum where it can be preserved rather than being left out to rot in the elements.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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So you can't climb a bolt ladder or a 5.7 cuz its wet. Wow. You are so light. Maybe you should give puddle jumping a try.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Just to be clear, it's wet 5.8 with 80 foot fall potential, a bit more unforgiving than puddle jumping.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Some puddles can be unforgivably deep.
I'm just trolling the poor bastard cuz he didn't come riding with us last wednesday.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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bk, I made the same recommend to Luke re U Wall.
A way better alternative any time of the year.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Well if the lower bolts got replaced in a fashion that facilitated a future free ascent and left us setup with a still viable recreational aid line to gain grand for the keeners on a rainy day, then that section of rock is put to good use.
Just used the Lieback as evidence that no statute sez the ancient bolts can't be touched. I am 100% in favour of what you have done Perry don't get me wrong.
Just my view from the bleachers ...
Rusty bolts are not meant to be preserved in active climbing areas.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2012 - 09:19pm PT
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^^^^^^^ +10000
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Replacing the original ladder would probably hinder a free ascent as the free line will take a more wandering line than the ladder.
Scrub the ladder and start from scratch.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Scrub the ladder and start from scratch.
That gets my vote.
I don't see and validity to the comparison of the GW bolt ladders with Maestri's travesty on Cerro Torre, but at the same time, leaving it as it now is seems stupid. Pull the junk, and make room for someone's new adventure.
Removing the bolts does not in any way invalidate or disrespect the original climb. Those guys had an amazing adventure, and blazed a trail for a bunch of fantastic climbing. But fifty-plus years later, leaving the rusting stubs in place doesn't make any sense
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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All that time spent aid-soloing in the rain is a waste of TIME YOU COULD SPEND SKIING
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Dec 10, 2012 - 12:28am PT
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Good point Chief, and above my pay grade ...
Over and Out !
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 10, 2012 - 01:18am PT
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While I generally favour removing old/rusty/disused fixed equpment, my vote is for leaving the old bolts on the Grand Wall exactly as they are. They're not in anyone's way or a hazard to anyone. Neither are they an eyesore - for that, see some modern 'cleaning' efforts. Let's have a little respect for history and our forebears, eh?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 10, 2012 - 02:15am PT
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chez Nadine & Perry. Perhaps you and I and Jim can carpool?
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Dec 10, 2012 - 10:37am PT
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And Nathan! Hitching up after work would be hard.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 10, 2012 - 11:19am PT
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Nice to see my ICBC money going to something worthwhile.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 10, 2012 - 11:47am PT
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Tami,
It's an observation of the winter Solstice on Friday December 21 taking place on the shores of the Upper Blind Channel at the residence of an individual known to some as, Chief.
There will initially be a gathering of people of all ages around a large fire and adults will be generally well behaved in front of children.
Later, the children will be taken to the safety of their homes and the behaviour of the remaining adults will likely become quite childish and the event will take on the appearance of a party.
Freedom of speech is defended and informed and civil discourse encouraged.
Unlike ST, this is a real campfire and bad behaviour will have you escorted physically off the property or in extreme cases, thrown bodily into the Blind Channel.
Typically Ms. Chief brews a huge pot of soup and and although guests are plied with modest libations of both alcoholic and non alcoholic beverages, it's a BYOB event.
All warm bivi spaces including the cabin will be occupied by visiting family.
There's parking aplenty on the adjacent lot.
Driving away intoxicated will not be tolerated so make plans or bring a sleeping bag so you can pass out in your car.
Around midnight the world may or may not come to an end.
If it doesn't, it's officially winter and the days will start getting longer.
Planning a good time with family, friends and climbers.
Last years' fire.
Note red diesel jug common to native ritual in right frame.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 10, 2012 - 01:18pm PT
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Yes, all those of us from Vancouver who are attending should carpool. We can rendezvous somewhere like St. David's (upper levels & Taylor Way) at 5:30, and proceed from there. Though if it's a sunny day, I reserve the right to leave early and go for a climb/hike.
As it will be the winter solstice, surely we can do some sort of wiccan stuff? Dancing rings around the fire or something?
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Dec 10, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
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Technically the party will be a celebration of the world continuing to exist, as 0 Z will have already come and gone.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 11, 2012 - 09:16am PT
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I've got floor space to bivy on a short trek uphill from Chiefs residence, available to those who need somewhere to crash.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 11, 2012 - 11:10am PT
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Well at some point I'm going south this winter..... is that like coveting your neighbors wife?
Tough question, and I don't have enough information to answer it. I guess it depends on just what you're planning to do once you get south. Is that where your neighbor and his wife live? Or is she going south with you?
We need more information.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 11, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
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Bruce I m pretty sure that sort of thing is legal in Nevada.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
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Hey Luke! Me and Sandra could use a floor to crash on if its still available
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 11, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
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Sure thing big guy
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2012 - 12:34pm PT
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Sick!! Thanks bud!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 11, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
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Not many coming from Vancouver if they all fit in Anders' car.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Dec 11, 2012 - 03:39pm PT
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I am still coming.
Hamish I am bringing that print for you, I missed the mailing deadline.
Did Marc-Andre get an invite yet, he's practically neighbours with you Perry.
Does Sanford, and Beaubien know about this too?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 11, 2012 - 07:43pm PT
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I'll be coming back Friday night also. Perhaps leaving late afternoon, gettting something for supper en route, then descending upon Casa Nadine and Perry like a herd of turtles. My car can fit four total, assuming a reasonable payload of 'stuff'.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Dec 12, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
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Anything that annoys Donald Trump is worth doing, and worth doing well. Another round of Glenfiddy, please!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
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As for Scotch, I saw a nice bottle of 25yr. old Laphroaig in a Calgary Airport jar store. Alas, I was a bit short coming up with the $568.00 to make it mine.
Is it really worth it? Must be some darn fine scotch!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 12, 2012 - 09:22pm PT
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Pretty expensive way to start a fire. Why not just use (old style) $20 bills?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 12, 2012 - 09:28pm PT
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As for Scotch, I saw a nice bottle of 25yr. old Laphroaig in a Calgary Airport jar store. Alas, I was a bit short coming up with the $568.00 to make it mine.
Well, it was Calgary, so what did you expect? The good stuff?
I was killing time in Heathrow on a stopover to Madrid a couple of years ago and wandered into a Scotch shop. Not much in there for $500. Most of the bottles had 4-figure price tags, and quite a few were up into 5 figures. And that was pounds, not dollars. The biggest number I saw was £22,000. Which translates to about $35,000.
And no, it wasn't a 5,000 liter barrel, just an ordinary size bottle. Distilled by Macallan, but not recently.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 12, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
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Scotch scotch scotch. I love scotch. Ribs, I had ribs for lunch. How now brown cow. Unique Ney York. The arsonist had oddly shaped feet.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Dec 13, 2012 - 12:54am PT
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Sounds like Luke has been into the scotch already...
I've been in that scotch shop in Heathrow. Shocking! There will always be a place for people with too much money to spend it. If single malt is your fancy, then 85 year old bottles that cost as much as a new pickup truck may be just the right thing for you.
How much does that work out to per drop anyway? Hmmm... 750ml bottle, approx 20 drops/ml equals 15,000 drops. 22,000 pounds sterling times 1.59 equals $34,980 CAD. 34,980/15,000 = $2.33 per drop. WOW
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Dec 13, 2012 - 01:08am PT
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The best alternative to Scotch, premium Kentucky Bourbon.
Makers Mark or Woodford Reserve the official bourbon of the Kentucky Derby.
This isn't the Jim or Jack that gave bourbon it's redneck rep.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 13, 2012 - 02:43am PT
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Jeezuz Crisis bk, thanks for that one!
Dweezil and his crew are awesome and I'd hate to miss it.
I'm buying tix tomorrow!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 13, 2012 - 02:54am PT
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Why don't they have solstices on Mondays or Tuesdays anymore? If they did, I would make the trip up there and ingest the sacred fungus among us. Have a great time. Woot.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 13, 2012 - 11:21pm PT
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OK, time for a reality check--check--check.
All of these fine products are available at most LCB outlets.
I have sampled the Mezzomondo 2010 on several occasions, and it goes down fast and smooth. In fact the faster, the smoother. Personally I sensed more of an apple/huckleberry flavour, with smokey licourice overtones. I felt it was overrated at 88/100, and gave it 87.25/100. :)
It's amazing that these wines come all the way from Europe, sell for $10-, and everyone still makes a buck!
By way of comparison:
Calona Red. Smells and tastes like kerosene. 5/100
Thunderbird. The aromas normally associated with any squat toilet anywhere, combined with the flavours of putrid plums. 3/100
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 13, 2012 - 11:39pm PT
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It's amazing that these wines come all the way from Europe, sell for $10-, and everyone still makes a buck!
Given that, as you point out, a lot of domestic Canadian and US wines sell for more and taste like crap, there's something fundamentally wrong. If grapes were incredibly difficult to grow here, that might explain it, but they're not.
So given that the cost of bringing wine to Vancouver from the Okanagan, or to Seattle from Yakima, is next to nothing when compared to bringing a bottle from Italy or France, why is the value-for-money equation skewed so far in favor of the European wines?
Hamish, I think we have to institute a Pacific NW/SW wine summit. You, and Glenn and Wayno and I should meet at least twice a year -- once on each side of the border -- and investigate this matter in depth.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 13, 2012 - 11:40pm PT
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It's amazing that these wines come all the way from Europe
Considering that 40% of the EU budget goes on agricultural subsidies, not so surprising though.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 13, 2012 - 11:46pm PT
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Considering that 40% of the EU budget goes on agricultural subsidies, not so surprising though.
And of course there are no agricultural subsidies in North America. How terribly unfair.
And second... 40%???? Are you serious? Do you have any kind of back-up for that?
Seriously Dr. D? 40%?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 14, 2012 - 12:14am PT
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Not sure about including Glenn in the wine-tasting. He can get pretty rowdy. I recall from the earlier posts about various pubs in BC that Glenn had visited every sleazy, bad idea, stay away from, yer gonna die pit in the province. Extra insurance will be required.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 14, 2012 - 12:18am PT
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Not sure about including Glenn in the wine-tasting. He can get pretty rowdy.
But... but... But he seemed so... so nice. He visited us, and talked about wine, and... He even identified a rock for us.
Are you saying it was a sham? A trick to make us think he was a wine-loving yuppie? That if we invite him, he will bring bad wine?
Oh, dear. I'm so confused.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 14, 2012 - 12:28am PT
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Something wrong with this picture also,$12.99 for a 12 pack of Canadian in Henderson, Nevada!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Dec 14, 2012 - 02:26am PT
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Hamie, the Periquita Reserve 2009 ($15.95) is pretty good, too. We had a bottle tonight with a friend who just flew in from Portugal. And the regular Periquita was really good about 10-15 years ago, then the bottom dropped out of the quality, until very recently.
Lots of good Spanish wines in the $10-$15 range in BC these days. Nothing in that price range from Oz is nearly as good, IMHO.
Ghost, yes, the crew you mentioned will have to get together and sample some good ones. Selection and price on your side of the border is better than ours, for sure. I'll try and keep my rowdy side well under control; won't be hard, because I can't drink 14 beers in an evening any more.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 14, 2012 - 02:27am PT
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wine summit
wine-tasting
Interesting choice of words. I was thinking more like, "wine good" or "wine face with purple tongue". Or we can let it all hang out and be "wine stupid".
I do tastings at work and they can be pretentious and if I am going to a wine summit, then Gorbachev better damn well be there.
Edit- what I really mean is good wine goes better with good food and good company. Let's do it!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 14, 2012 - 12:32pm PT
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bk,
Yes absolutely going to see Dweezil.
There were still tickets available when I bought mine yesterday.
Should be a good follow up to the solstice party.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 15, 2012 - 03:09am PT
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Scotch and Zappa. Talk about thread drift...
This should get up back on track:
Perry meets Daryl...
I met Daryl on Psyche Ledge in the spring of 76. I had just hitched up from Vancouver and was planning to rendezvous with Dave for a weekend of neophyte shenanigans (it's a wonder either of us survived that first season). It was late afternoon with the western sun finally warming the Grand Wall and the forested old highway and as I approached Psyche Ledge I saw two trolls sitting in the grass doing troll stuff. I mean, they had to be trolls, they had long shaggy hair and dirty headbands and were communicating in some hard to understand language while passing a bottle of straight Dark Navy Rum back and forth. I cautiously approached them and said hello. The red haired troll responded with a gruff but cheery, "Hi, how's it going man? I'm Daryl and this is Stewart, have a drink."
So began my friendship with the late great Daryl Hatten, aka Doug Fir, Chrome Molybdenum Man, Darly Halfweenie, PO Solo or whatever colorful moniker best suited the occasion.
Daryl and I became regular climbing partners through the late seventies and early eighties. He taught me many of the fundamentals of big wall climbing and was totally trustworthy.
Daryl was also an excellent free climber and a five hour romp up the Grand via Cruel Shoes back in the mid eighties stands out in my mind. Daryl and Eric Weinstein were the strongest rockclimbing team in Squamish at that time. Among their many accomplishments was the second ascent of the PO with Java and Kim, at that time, the hardest big wall in the world.
Daryl had a sharp wit and great sense of humour. He loved plays on words. We were bivied on the Artery Ledge while starting up a cool overhanging unclimbed wall. Daryl thought it looked just like a mini Shield Headwall and suggested we call the wall "The Panty Shield". We liked that and kicked around names for our yet unclimbed route. It was quite rainy and we felt a bit amphibious in our endeavours so a frog theme emerged. I was reading some Kurt Vonnegut at the time and he made reference to a character known as the Pan Galactic Straw Boss. As we lay there mouldering in our sodden bivi gear, smoking bunk we merged the amphibian with some Vonnegut and came up with the Pan Granitic Frogman. We laughed so hard we cried.
We left ropes fixed to our high point and before I could come back to finish the route, sprained my ankle taking a sixty footer of Rainy Day Dream Away while Daryl was holding the rope. Dary went back and finished the aid route with John Simpson.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 15, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
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So Pan Granitic Frogman has never seen a repeat? Has anyone tried? It looks burly up there.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
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Was that the route Grace Wong was working when she passed or was it son of pan?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 15, 2012 - 12:41pm PT
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I don't think she was "working" a route, I'm led to believe she was doing some explorary swinging with out a redirect under an edge..
Aislinn, yula and I are gonna hit the 4 "somewhats" today!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2012 - 10:55pm PT
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Nice. I see Carmen made the trip too!
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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Dec 15, 2012 - 11:06pm PT
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Did Nathan Kukathas repeat it? He either did that one or son of pan last year I think.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Dec 16, 2012 - 12:25am PT
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Nathan and Matt repeated Son of Pan, Paul. Nice work in the Towers too man!
GF, how's about a story on the 1st ascent of Son of Pan? Any details about who added the bolt on the crux pitch?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2012 - 01:57am PT
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R I P Grace. Sorry to bring up a touchy subject. I almost deleted my comment and you know how often i do that..
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 16, 2012 - 02:17am PT
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Sorry to bring up a touchy subject.
Not touchy Mike. Just kind of sad.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2012 - 10:33am PT
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Does dawn patrol really get rolling at 3:30am? Damn, that's early buddy! ;)
Awesome post. Thanks for that.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Dec 16, 2012 - 11:28am PT
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Thanks Greg!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 16, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
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It was not an edge per se as much as the rope see sawing up and down over a large surface area when jugging. It was also a single 9 mm rope with no second back up unfortunately. So sad.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 16, 2012 - 03:42pm PT
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gf
Does 3.55am represent a late night, or an early morning? Neither one registers on my radar. Thanks for a great tale. I looked up Pan Granitic and Son of Pan in McLane's 2005 comprehensive, and in Bourdon's 2012 select, but couldn't find either in either. [Sounds like the "There was a young gay from Khartoum" limerick.] Hopefully it was a bail bolt, and not a chicken bolt. Either way, chop chop!
On the subject of guidebooks, I noted that there were a few three and a half star routes in McLane, not many, but no four star routes. I assume that he is waiting for the ultimate perfect line, a challenge for some future generation. A possible project for BM, and the other young guns posting on this thread????? Perhaps all of the plums are not yet picked.
On the other hand there are lots of four star routes in Bourdon. Does anyone else think that his cover photo has been rotated through 90 degrees? In my experience most trees grow upwards, not sideways. However all that rain in Squish could result in weak roots, and a corresponding sideways tilt.....
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 16, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
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No danger of any climbing breaking out, the next few days look like a series of righteous fronts delivering primo fun.
The first of those looks like it's about to slam into us in a couple of hours on its way to you.
And it's great to hear that Erin's out on skis. She was on crutches when we saw her at Don's 65th not so long ago.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Dec 16, 2012 - 06:44pm PT
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Lots of biking still going on in Squampton; just a little more challenging with a coating of slush. Vroooooooom.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 16, 2012 - 06:56pm PT
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just a little more challenging with a coating of slush.
We used to buy a box of machine screws and put a hundred or so through our tires from the inside out. Then lay a layer of duct tape over the heads to protect the tubes. Weird as hell the first time you try riding, but sure did make a difference in the wet mud, dirt, leaves, sticks, etc
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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Dec 16, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
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Nice bit of history gf, cheers. Thanks Fish Boy., it was fun. I'm back up north the first week of jan. Do you and the rest of the motley crew fancy meeting up for a drink? Luke? Mike? Relic? Psyched to get my beaks back into the chief too!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 16, 2012 - 11:05pm PT
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Am I correct in concluding that Big Jim Sinclair was both up and about by 7am, and also went skiing? Or is there another Big Jim? Two and two seems to be making five.......
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2012 - 12:12am PT
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Paul, heck ya buddy! Let's set it up.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 17, 2012 - 01:14am PT
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Two and two seems to be making five.......
Or seven. Or nineteen.
I wondered about that too. Anyway, glad to hear that, whatever size he is, Mr. Brennan had a good day.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2012 - 06:11pm PT
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There has to be some mutant out there that's bigger than me. How about it? Anyone know of any 6'8 plus mutant climbers that frequent Squamish??
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 17, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
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Only the sasquatch, which used to live in the north gully, might have been marginally bigger.
So BM, widely acclaimed and internationally celebrated "Photographer of Super Topo", what is your opinion of the cover-shot on the new Bourdon select? Rotated or not?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 17, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
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The North Walls troll is a rather large fellow, but quite shy.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2012 - 08:26pm PT
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Bruce she thinks its fuking hilarious. ;) I find it quite amusing also.
Hamie! I had not yet had a chance to check out your query! I believe you are correct sir, it would be unnatural to shoot it as seen on the cover. The angle is what really makes the shot, It works from all angles! 90 degrees right seems to be the original angle. I'm gonna try that one next time I'm shooting a lead for sure!
As to the photographer of supertopo thing, sometimes I feel like a guppy in a pool full of sharks. There is a lot of talented people around here. I'm just glad you guys enjoy my efforts and hopefully I spark a few brain cells and we get another golden nugget or two in the process.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 17, 2012 - 08:57pm PT
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Has everyone who ought to be invited to the soiree on Friday night in fact been notified? Perhaps Bruce could usefully work off some energy and do a roll call.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Dec 17, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
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Paul, it'd be great to catch up. The wife and baby run off to Ontario in January, so I'll have a bash at mine. I'm thinking Friday 11th of Jan. You, Mike, Sandra, Luke, Ais, Relic, Nath, Kieran, RyanD, Chief and the rest of you who I've never met, Tami, Anders, GF, Hamish x2 etc are all welcome. More details later, until then, Perry's should be rad....
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 17, 2012 - 11:55pm PT
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Wait a sec here. Where is Irish PB, that little hobbit. Lol, I want my cams back, I got some projects that require head sized pro :p
Thanks for the Son of Pan story Greg! Sounds like you're getting lots of skiing in too!
Big mike, as my rock climbing mentor you were supposed to teach me to play it cool in the company of royalty. D'oh.
In other news I started at Capilano University today, my mom is gonna be so proud of me.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2012 - 11:59pm PT
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Too bad I never had a mentor! Oops. I feel like I have lots of them now though...
Party at fishboys!!!
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Dec 18, 2012 - 12:40am PT
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Wilderness, Luke?
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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Dec 18, 2012 - 01:51am PT
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Sounds like a plan lads! Would be nice to put faces to some names from the interweb. Fear not Luke, I'll have your cams back to you the 4th or 5th. In bishop til then, trying to remember what this free climbing sh#t is about again...
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 18, 2012 - 01:59am PT
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Thanks to every one who Donated to the Habitat for Humanity fundraiser on behalf of my halfassed attempt at an improbable winter* solo ascent of the Grandwall. Despite a bogus attempt at my projected goal, I teamed up with Aislinn and Carmen Merkel and along with our avalanche poodle Yula we Summited** the first peak of the the Stawamus Chief at approx. 1:37 pm Saturday Dec. 15 2012.
To top it off we headed down to the fundraising marathon "grand finale" at the Hive and got bolder...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2012 - 02:12am PT
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Nice work Luke! Sideway photo alert!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 18, 2012 - 02:52am PT
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Luke, yer a Freak!
See you Friday dude.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Dec 18, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
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Not all of those cams are Luke's.....
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Dec 18, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
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In the Shadow of the Chief is on TV right now. Just watched Hamish solo the split pillar! There is some cool footage of guys climbing the Grand, including a guy falling off the Roman Chimneys crux pitch.
Who were the climbers in it? They look familiar. Not Ed and Jim, the new guys I mean.
Edit. it was Adam Diamond and Connie Amelunxen. I didn't recognize Adam with shorter hair.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
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Aww I missed it! It's on the knowledge network again at 11:00. So stoked!!!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 19, 2012 - 12:10am PT
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You can buy a copy of the DVD at the adventure centre in Squamish. 30% off right now, so only ~$18 or something. Get it Friday before the soiree.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2012 - 12:15am PT
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Interesting! Thanks Anders!
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Dec 19, 2012 - 12:16am PT
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This frame is from the KNOWLEDGE NETWORK CLASSIC COLLECTION -titled = "NAIL AND BAIL"
Have Bolt Gun Will Travel ...
check your local listings
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 19, 2012 - 01:31am PT
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hilarious Bruce.
I think I found a live stream of the Knowledge network.. It says the station is offline at present hoping the show comes on as I have yet to see it in its entirety.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2012 - 01:57am PT
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Luke, go pick up two at the visitor center and consider one your Christmas gift. Ill grab the other one at the party.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 19, 2012 - 04:42am PT
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My dad n law taped it for me a few years back. I may be just a biased sh#t head who lives in Squamish but I think it's one of the best climbing flicks out there. That one fishboy posted & masters of stone are pretty rad too.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 20, 2012 - 01:05pm PT
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OK, so what are the derangements for Friday? For those living in the southern suburbs of Squamish - greater Vancouver, that is - where and when should we meet? I'd like to head up in time to pick up some bread at the Golden Crust, i.e. by say 4:00 or a bit earlier. If there's time to get something to eat, all the better.
Those interested could meet at Saint David's (upper levels & Taylor Way) at say 4:00 PM. Or?
Perry, how is access to your place through the snowdrifts? What should we bring besides ourselves and something to drink and eat?
I'll head back Friday night, at a not unreasonable hour.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 20, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
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Waterproof footwear.
Don't wear anything you don't want burned by sparks.
Forecast, not horrendous, clouds and snow flurries.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2012 - 11:15am PT
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Bump for a kickass party tonight!!
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Dec 21, 2012 - 11:26am PT
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Fave quote from ISOC:
"We didn't know what to expect.... but that was to be expected"
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 22, 2012 - 05:36am PT
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Sipping tea and winding down at 02:30 after tidying up.
Awesome evening with a great bunch of people.
Thanks to everyone for coming out!
PB
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2012 - 12:59pm PT
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Thanks for the great gathering last night Perry! It was an excellent white man's fire!
After we went back to Luke's for some more hi-jinx.....
Edit bmacd on the left Ryand on the right.
I got more pics on the canon hopefully.. We'll see when I get home
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
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You have to love Squamish.. Even average gas stations have amazing views..
Apron anyone??
Crampons might be handy... ;)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 22, 2012 - 03:03pm PT
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Chief, nice to meet u, the Bruce's & a few others last night. Great spot you got there, wish I woulda showed earlier. How's those plums sitting Luke?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 22, 2012 - 03:14pm PT
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Looks like you were burning snowboards last night. Good call! :)
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Dec 22, 2012 - 03:23pm PT
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To bad for the mickeyds sign
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
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Hamie no we didn't! I should have brought one though. U coulda sacrificed an old one for Ullr.
Ya those damn Golden Arches are everywhere!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 22, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
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At the solstice celebration in Squamish chez Nadine & Perry last night.
(No effigies were burnt, and no death metal was heard. Just bluegrass. Sorry Werner.)
As noted, it was definitely a white man's fire.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 22, 2012 - 06:31pm PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
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Nice pics Anders! Thanks!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Dec 22, 2012 - 08:47pm PT
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Oh, Luke and Ais got a new dog, sweet. That Yula was such a pest.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 22, 2012 - 08:52pm PT
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 22, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
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Great pics Anders.
Fun night last night, great to see a lot of familiar faces instead of screen names.
Terrific fire Perry, thank you for having us over, it was hands down the best fire I seen all day yesterday.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 22, 2012 - 09:52pm PT
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Bruce K (taking a break from beating up the gun nuts, conspiracy theorists, etc), Jia C & wife.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 22, 2012 - 11:11pm PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2012 - 01:00pm PT
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Damn that's a large hole next to me! ;)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 23, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
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Well, a deep hole anyway. (Caption corrected.)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
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Edit oops!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 23, 2012 - 03:46pm PT
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4600
And a squamish bump. Wish I'd been able to make it to the bonfire, but my passport is in Ottawa right now, being renewed, and they're funny about letting me back into the US without it.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Dec 23, 2012 - 04:41pm PT
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Good to see some of those Canadian faces! Damn, big Mike is as billed.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Dec 23, 2012 - 05:03pm PT
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I'm pretty sure that there's a Ghost in one of my photos...
Mr & Mrs Chief thanks for the great evening, I took off for more Libations and Christmas cheer with the young bucks up at Luke and Aislinns place at the end of the night.
Hiked back down and bivied in the truck at Chiefs place. Something weird happened, some kind of ghost whispering or soft whooping sounds right outside the vehicle during the night but I couldn't see anything.
Chief had I felt better in the morning I would have come up to the house for coffee, but I wasn't doing too well that morning ....
Luke and AIS thanks for the night cap !
Edit: I'm not saying Sasq. but definitely supernatural goings on aat the Beckham compound for the first time in my experience
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 23, 2012 - 05:22pm PT
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Plus the North Wall Troll is there, to keep the other critters in line.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 23, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
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Perry said that this was the fifth winter solstice bonfire/party that they've had. Getting better all the time.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 23, 2012 - 06:41pm PT
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Is that who Perry used to use to belay him on his projects?
Bruce, equal parts red wine & apple juice, liberal amounts of apricot & cherry brandy, handful of cinnamon sticks & a sliced up orange. Simmer to a boil then simmer for 20 min or so. Used to make it every morning at a bar I worked at, the euros would come in for après & get smashed on it & be staggering around with big red donuts around their mouths.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2012 - 06:47pm PT
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Aww that was Jia?? Too bad I didn't get a chance to say hi... Bmacd you should be used to Sasquatch activity by now, no? ;)
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Dec 23, 2012 - 11:05pm PT
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Yes Mike, it's no big deal, they have even loaned me one of their non-interstellar UFO's to call my own for the rest of my time on this planet
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
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Sweet! Let's go for a rip!!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
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Anders, did you get any of Hamish?? I got a few but they came out all blurry.
Hamish sorry I didn't get much of a chance to talk to you but I really enjoyed the conversation between you and Marc about Genus Loci, and then got distracted by Tami. You should stop by Nicks on the 11th if u have time.
Im working on pics right now but looking at them, I can tell that I was clearly in party mode......
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 23, 2012 - 11:54pm PT
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No, none of Haggis, at least none in which he's identifiable. I take photos at these get-togethers and send them to those who were there and the hosts. But it's a bit random, and I'm not good at taking photos of people I don't know. So inevitably miss some.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2012 - 12:04am PT
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Obviously MH.. I was just hoping you did. I must say you did a excellent job with your point and shoot! Thanks for your efforts.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 24, 2012 - 04:34am PT
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some kind of ghost whispering or soft whooping sounds right outside the vehicle during the night but I couldn't see anything.
Sorry Bruce, that was me, plus a couple friends of mine. We are playing around with bio-locating and haven't really got it wired yet. Next time I will give you the heads-up.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 25, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
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Merry Chrismas, from Squamish with love.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
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Is that a selfie Luke?
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Dec 25, 2012 - 03:00pm PT
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Great photo Luke - All the best to everyone who knows me and reads this post
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 25, 2012 - 03:43pm PT
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Baby Jesus took the photo.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 25, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
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I like to picture my baby Jesus like a little kid comer, all covered in chalk with pitons instead of clothespins holding all the poop in his little haulbag diaper.
Merry Xmas to all the Squaminards & OGs out there!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 25, 2012 - 04:43pm PT
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A very large and wet Xmas to all my friends north of the border.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2012 - 06:39pm PT
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Merry Christmas Wayno! Everyone else too! Merry christmas!!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2012 - 09:56pm PT
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Here are some pics from Perry and Nadine's fabulous Solstice bash!
right to left, Jia and his better half, and the two Bruce's first one being Kay and the Second one Macdonald. The other 4 are unknown to me.
From left to right Nathan Roberts, Marc Andre Tarte, Tami Knight, Hamish Frasier
I know.. they're blurry...
The Fire
Gotta go to a party! Peace!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 27, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
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Hey kids, is Scottish Tale in shape yet?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 28, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
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It's too quiet down there.......
........What evil plans were concocted at Perry's Party?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
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What are we going to do today Brain?, that's easy Pinky, same thing we always do, try and take over the world!!
Nice to hear from ya Hamie ;) how was your Christmas??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2012 - 12:15am PT
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Dru what is Scottish tale?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2012 - 12:26am PT
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Angels would be fun with ice gear I bet!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 29, 2012 - 04:19am PT
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Going to wal mart would be fun with ice gear I bet!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2012 - 12:56pm PT
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What, like shopping with Ice gear on or climbing wall
Mart? ;)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 29, 2012 - 01:05pm PT
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Either! When isn't it fun to dress up like mad max in Arcteryx gear?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
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Too true. Imagine all the looks ;)
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Dec 29, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
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I have quietly read this thread for months and have come to one conclucion:
I should have gone to Squamish every year after the valley got hot. We would always go to Eldo or some other place.
The cracks there are prettier than the valley cracks.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 29, 2012 - 03:40pm PT
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It's not too late Base!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2012 - 01:05am PT
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Never too late base!! Spring is surprisingly good too!
Here's a little eye candy
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 30, 2012 - 01:23am PT
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Spring is surprisingly good too!
Too true! I can remember springs at Squamish when whoever went to the Valley for the great spring weather returned with tales of sitting in a tent in the rain. While we'd been climbing our asses off.
Not that it was always that way, but Squamish can be pretty nice early in the year.
Edit: No fair on that first picture Mike. If you want to put that one up, it should be accompanied by a side view to show the true angle.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2012 - 01:53am PT
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There you go Dave. Flipped it. I just flip em' sometimes for the effect especially if I have a bunch of similar shots...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 30, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
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In another thread, Mike said:
Jim busted up his knee pretty good today skiing. Heal up well Jim!
What happened? Are we talking some serious bruising and a day or two with a liimp, or is this about orthopedic surgery?
Whichever, best wishes to Little Jim.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2012 - 12:46pm PT
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Hey Ghost,
It's a bit more serious than that.. Here is gf's post on the shred thread yesterday;
gf
climber
Dec 29, 2012 - 05:51pm PT
NEWS FLASH!
Big (north shore) Jim suffered a blow-out on his AC and AM ligaments today on cypress-assistance was required to get him off the mountain. Film at 11 when big jim posts up the shots i took on his iphone.
your north shore correspondent
And from the horse's mouth....
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1992661&msg=2029523#msg2029523
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
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Dru, Scottish conditions eh?? Cool. Looks miserable ;) I need some gear for that stuff. I think I figured out why they are so into in though, there's no big hills to slide down there... :)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Managed to get some climbing in on the last day of 2012 before work which was a nice surprise, here's one of the bears being run through the birth canal in the boulders today. He has been born again. Looking great for the next few days for climbing.
.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
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Nice one Ryan!
Greetings from the bluffs! It's nice out here!!
I led the first climb since everyone was feeling a bit rusty!! Kyle seconded.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 07:50pm PT
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Neat and cool wall
Kyle stepped up for Flying Circus 10a
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Adrian MacNair
Boulder climber
Vancouver
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Wow, most epic thread in history? Cool.
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Adrian MacNair
Boulder climber
Vancouver
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Dang, I can't find anymore Squamish pics on this computer. Anyway, can't wait to take the next generation out. She's 4 and already addicted.
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MH2
climber
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Welcome, Adrian. I may remember you from some Ontario adventures.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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A wintry morning at the Little Smoke Bluffs. No herds to be seen.
A cliff I rarely visit, as it is usually overrun.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Cool photos Adrian et all. Way to get after it today Mike & Anders- starting the year off right. Wish i coulda done that but I'm just in the final hrs of a 14hr new year shift, dealing with the public in their finest condition has been a hoot. Tomorrow however I will be the public & plan on climbing in the finest conditions!! See u out there.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2013 - 01:26am PT
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Welcome Adrian indeed! Thanks for the pics!
Anders, nice to see you're getting out there! we'll be down again tomorrow, ill shoot ya a pm with my #.
Got a couple more pics..
Neat and Cool Pano
The Chief looked rad!
Kyle gets a tcu in
Sending
Squamish Monkeys
The View
These wierd quebecois toproper types showed up and smoked us out!!
NOOOBS!!!!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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I remember one cold winter when there was some ice climbing at the bluffs. Even though it was very cold it was clear and calm and the rock faces created enough heat that by early afternoon it was t-shirt climbing weather.Well the ice was still in and there were ice climbers side by side with t-shirt clad rock climbers. The bluffs is such a special place and the first place I ever climbed.
Anders is setting the bar high for all us geezers for 2013, good on ya.Kudos to you Big Mike and gang starting the year out right.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Hahaha "ham it up, go ahead ham it up"
Harry your videos rule! Lol
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2013 - 12:21pm PT
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Ya Harry! Thanks. Too funny ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2013 - 06:03pm PT
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Work sux! It's not exactly warm out here ;)
Murrin parking lot..
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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View from the chains on No Name rd at the end of the day.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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photo credit: Nina H
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2013 - 10:16pm PT
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Nice shot Ryan!
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Nice work getting out there Mike and Ryan, that's awesome!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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I see in the background of that Murrin shot that Line Drive and presumably Nintendo and the other shitty smears along the Petgill trail may be thick enuff to sink a pick into?
Just in time for the warm front of course.
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Adrian MacNair
Boulder climber
Vancouver
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Haha, I found some more pics. Put this common conversation together.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 01:46am PT
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Dru! Yes they are in. Dunno how fat, I've seen the highway ones look better. Diedre has a full on smear that looks pretty significant. If anyone had intentions on climbing it in these conditions it looks like tomorrow would be an excellent day to do it!! It's supposed to hit a high of zero.
Friday it's all over... Time to call in sick Dru!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 02:37am PT
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I was feeling pretty lazy this morning but after Anders refused my offer to climb today due to his obligations, Relic sent me a text and forced me to get off my lazy butt. I met him at the bluffs, which were nice and sunny.
He asked me if I wanted to go join the boys at pet wall. I agreed knowing it would be cold and damp, but interesting never the less.
We met up with Ryan D, Brownie, Nina and Kyle.
Ryan was on No Name Road 11b
I think he found it a bit chilly. He commented when we got there that he couldn't feel if his fingers were getting any purchase....
Relic, Kyle and I were less than inspired to lead anything...
Under Blackwater was an icy pit
Kyle and Nina
Relic and Ryand
It was pretty chilly after the sun went over the horizon. Kieran managed to get up no name and Relic gave it a shot next but the sun had disappeared by then and things had cooled down a few degrees. He nearly froze his hands off and couldn't take it down..
Ryand ended up jugging his first rope.. It was pretty funny watching him figure it out.. We were trying to help him but it took him a bit to get his system dialed..
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Mighty Hiker, keeper of the bluffs. Mike and I got into a disagreement over the grade of Clean Corner, the hands corner to the left of Flying Circus. He claims it is of the 5.9 persuasion. I tried to correcto his ghastly overrating reverse sandbaggin. It's just a measly dang 5.7 right?
It twas a cold but nice day to hang with friends in the New Year today!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Brrrrrrrrrrrr, anyone want to go jugging tomorrow?
The corner is 5.7
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 03:52am PT
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I was wrong. Not 5.9 but bourdon has it at 5.8? Jugging Ryan? ;) we need tools I would love to hit up diedre ;)
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Mike I love your salalcicles,great diversion to keep you busy while freezing your ass off.
Up until this point in my life I have only seen one group of climbers as psyched about climbing as you guys.One time it was Frog Butress,Queensland at the height of summer and the only other climbers I saw for two weeks were a couple of rabid foaming at the mouth over climbing type teenagers.Other time I lost my mind I was climbing on a really cold January day at Rattlesnake point in Ontario and who shows up but two more rabid teenagers.These days I like to be able to feel that my fingers are on my hands but kudos again to you guys. You must have found the elixir of eternal l'amour de l'escalade. I noticed someone bumped me, how do you do that?
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Adrian MacNair
Boulder climber
Vancouver
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Rattlesnake Point. January. Yup, it gets desperate in Ontario.
I got a video bumping around somewhere of me bouldering in White Bluff in April and the only thing missing from the scene are icebergs, although the lake looks close enough.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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@Adrian: Pretty sure the first pic you posted a page back is Local Boys.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
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Mmm winter climbing... Fingers so cold! ;) My nice warm bed is trapping me at the moment... ;)
Oh ya, bumping is done like this Harry...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
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Bump
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Isn't Corner Crack usually graded 5.7? That seems about right to me, although it's pretty short.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 01:14pm PT
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I guess you didn't proof read the smoke bluffs section eh Anders? :)
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Adrian MacNair
Boulder climber
Vancouver
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You're right, it's Local Boys. Damn you're good. I've only been to Shannon Falls a half dozen times.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 01:56pm PT
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Might go.. Dunno no plans yet. It's Sandra's day off, probably a good idea to see what she wants to do first.... ;)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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OK then, Corner Crack is Squamish 5.7, Little Smoke Bluffs 5.9. Grade inflation isn't a problem only in the academic world. All going well, I'll live to climb 5.12.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
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I said I was wrong. But Mark still has it at 5.8 and it is Certainly harder than laughing crack but easier than mosquito...
I guess it felt like 5.9 with cold digits and rusty skills ;p
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Hey, Boogers & Flies felt like 5.9 the other day, too. Friction climbing is more challenging when it's freezing, and you can't feel your toes, your pinkies, or the rock.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
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That's for certain. Cold climbing is sandbagged by it's very nature..
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Adrian MacNair
Boulder climber
Vancouver
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I always found the Grand Wall old routes tough and the Bluffs easy. Flying Circus, for instance, has to be the most cherry .10a in Squamish. But Apron Strings and the Split Pillar at .10b will spank the initiated. I'd say both those routes pose a tougher challenge than Crime of the Century.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 05:29pm PT
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I'd say both those routes pose a tougher challenge than Crime of the Century.
I disagree. Could have something to do with finger size though...
They are both really tough for the grade though!!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Happy 2013 everybody!
For Chrismas I got a copy of "In the Shadow of the Chief and a 25 foot stick clip! Weeoo, we're not gonna die jugging back to our high point on Zorro's!!!
Ais and I just got back from a week long "camping" trip to the Chilcotins and back. It's the Wild West up there! What a trip!
No photos uploaded yet. Just this little throwback from 2012!
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longjimbo
climber
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great pics, ive gotta save up some money to get out to these places.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
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Cool Luke! Good to hear you guys had fun.
Ya man get up here this summer!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 11:45pm PT
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The shoes stick but the fingers freeze! ;)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Thank you for these pearls of priceless wisdom - I simply had no idea!
Had a very good interview with Tricouni this afternoon, learned many interesting things about the who/what/where/when/why/how of climbing at Squamish from 1961 - 68 or so.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
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Nice Anders. I look forward to hearing those tales.. How is your project going?
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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A dry freezing winter day climbing is still better than a rainy day indoors.
Back when you could drive to the base of the Bluffs, I would haul my buddy Ivan out in Sub zero weather to climb. After leading Kangaroo Corner on a freeezing winter day, I lowered off the top to see him sitting in his truck with the heater on and the belay rope sneaking out of top 2 inches of his window.
Ha Ha, i got the point.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Haha ^^^ I wonder at what point he took u off belay to run the rope thru the window??!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 01:14am PT
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Haha ^^^ I wonder at what point he took u off belay to run the rope thru the window??!
Maybe he jumped through the window! ;)
Jim, eatons eh? What about the climbing wall in the sport check at park royal that's covered in golf gear!!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 01:20am PT
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Only 300 to go, should we give Rolf the 5000th? ;)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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They never let anyone on that rig even when it was Coast Mountain Sports.
Really true !
Uh... Really False! They let me on it. And someone who was with me. Maybe one of my sons? Can't remember.
Automatic top belay rig was pretty freaky the first time I used it. Get to the top of the wall, and... and... and... Modern part of brain says it must be fine to just let go, but ancient remnant brain says NO!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 01:45am PT
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What a shame! It's pretty tall!!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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There was also the church, Epiphany chapel on your way out to UBC along Chancellor blvd. It had a nice granite wall with the tell tale signs of rock climbers all across the wall. It was high also if you wanted to recreate soloing and safer too as the Lord was taking care of you.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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BK, where were these roof cracks you speak of?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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We only got booted off occasionally when some pole up the butt west van bag would march straight to customer service to complain about the unseemly riff raff probably high on drugs and causing a public disturbance. It was a taste of what the Mundays were up against back in the thirties.
Don & Phyl bouldered on the Eaton's wall in the thirties?
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MH2
climber
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Did Don & Phyl have anything to do with Squamish? Were they West Vancouverites? Some old guy on the bus once told me that he knew one of them through some (alpine?) garden club.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Did Don & Phyl have anything to do with Squamish? Were they West Vancouverites? Some old guy on the bus once told me that he knew one of them through some (alpine?) garden club.
They had nothing to do with climbing at Squamish. I never knew Don, but that definitely was not something that remotely interested Phyl. What was important to her (and probably him, too) was just being in the mountains. And that became especially true later in their lives.
They lived in North Vancouver, not far above the Upper Levels Highway, between Lonsdale and Mountain Highway. Small little house; it's probably gone by now. One of my prized possessions is a photo of Waddington taken by Don from the top of Munday on the first ascent in 1930; this photo hung above Phyl's fireplace for years.
I didn't know that Phyl was in the Alpine Garden Club, but it wouldn't surprise me at all. She loved flowers and gardens. She and Don had planned a book of photos featuring their flower photos, but Don's death intervened. The book never appeared, but around 1958 Home Oil produced a 16-page colour pamphlet containing many of Phyl's wildfower photos.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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The Chief was just a great big lump as far as they were concerned. Ask Anders..........but I don't think it was until the late '50's that anybody got around to ogling the thing as a climbing destination........
I just found out yesterday (courtesy of old diaries) that I spent considerable time in the Touch & Go Towers (west of Squam, across the river) before setting foot on the Chief. And that only happened because one day we went to Squamish and found the suspension bridge across the river was gone! So we turned to the Chief....
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Wow that's crazy Tricouni. Bypassing the chief to canoe? to little cliffs?
Ohh, suspension bridge. I wish there was still one up there!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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When I was house hunting in 1990 we went to their house when it was up for sale. The scumbag realtor was touting that it was owned by some famous mountaineers and that some old 8mm film footage was found in the attic and that it would come with the purchase of the house.
I immediately got in touch with the BCMC about it and never did find out what became of the footage.
You were right about the house being small,it was tiny even by 1920 standards but why do need a big house when your true passion is the outdoors?I believe they built it themselves also.
Tricouni do you know anything about this film footage?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 11:30pm PT
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that only happened because one day we went to Squamish and found the suspension bridge across the river was gone! So we turned to the Chief....
Did you miss this relic? ;)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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My parents ( and those of Bruce Kay & Randy A among others.........) would take the ferry to Squamish & board the train there & go to Garibaldi Stn to head into Black Tusk meadows. The Chief was just a great big lump as far as they were concerned. Ask Anders..........but I don't think it was until the late '50's that anybody got around to ogling the thing as a climbing destination........
My ex-father-in-law was a climber. He was a Brit, who wound up as a prof at Oxford, but in his younger years he was a climber. Even did some early ascents in the Himalayas. But he did spend some time in the Northwest US/Southwest Canada, and told me stories about climbs of Mt Garibald that involved trains and boats, and wilderness. But for him, and others of his time, Squamish was just a town, and that big cliff above it wasn't anything at all.
I took him up on something on the Chief -- Sparrow, I think -- and he loved that. Don Serl and I also took him into the Waddington Range, and climbed some not-so-technical things with him. Funny trip, because there were several "old people" who were, then, exactly the age that Don and I are now.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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From learning about the 1940s and 1950s at Squamish, the Chief seems to have been the elephant in the woodpile. It hardly even got mentioned in the weekly paper, except for a very occasional scenery shot. Mountaineers and backcountry skiers passed by it en route to Garibaldi Park, and local people were active in the outdoors. But there doesn't seem to have been much thought of let alone action relating to climbing on it, although people did hike up it. There are some interesting loose ends and circumstantial evidence, which may always remain that.
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MH2
climber
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I spent considerable time in the Touch & Go Towers
!!!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Maybe no one climbed it cuz there weren't many chimneys n offalwidths up it
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2013 - 12:03am PT
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That shot is so ominous mh2!!
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MH2
climber
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Check with Perry sometime. Once I pulled from my collection of cliche, "Back when dinosaurs walked the Earth..." and Perry said, "Dinosaurs do walk the Earth." He may have been referring to those Lost Worlds across the river.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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I spent more than a few evenings at the Eatons Wall in the 1990s with other West Van/North Shore climbers who were too poor or otherwise unable to go to the Edge. I recall it being pretty crimpy. Tendinitis special.
There is an awesome offwidth between two of the concrete pillars that I once managed to get about 5 feet off the ground on before slowly oozing down and gobying up my thigh something fierce. Guy I believe went up and down it in his ginch.
The mall security was some 90 yr old guy with an electriccart and it was always a battle when climbing there to see which would stop us first - cold and overcrimped fingers or mall grandpa yelling "You damn kids get off my wall!"
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Glen - Is this the same Phyl Munday photo that you have? I think it made the rounds of the local alpine inteligentsia so I now have it via my mom and dad.
Bruce, your photo is the famous one the Mundays took from the NW summit looking at the main peak. I think at that point they must have known they were never going to get up it.
My photo is taken from Mt Munday, with the first really good view they had of Wadd and the Tiedeman peaks. It's in Culbert's guide, one of the fold-out glossy photos; that photo was reproduced from mine.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Tricouni do you know anything about this film footage?
Harry, fascinating that you guys looked at the house when it came on the market. It was indeed at 373 Tempe Crescent, as Tami noted. I believe but am not certain that the film footage is either in the Provincial Archives (Victoria) or with the Mundays' great-niece who lives in Washington.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Thats so interesting that you guys were all over the touch and goes before even thinking about the chief. you guys were so summit oriented eh? There really seemed to be a distinct cultural separation between the mountaineers and the "rock gymnasts" as G W Young and all the brits and earo's were going on about back then. How did Beckey fit in?
Bruce, yes we (me, Culbert, my brother Bob, our circle of friends) were summit-oriented: we liked things with tops. Hence the T>, the Acrophobes, Trestle Tower in Cheakamus Canyon, miscellaneous rotting (and not) towers in the interior of the province, the Moles, and so forth. The T> have tops to them, some of them not easy to reach.
MH2: lovely, moody photo of the Castle that you posted!
Bruce, in Vancouver in the early 1960s there wasn't really a gap between the "rock gymnasts" and the mountaineers, partly because rock climbers were few and far between (Les Macdonald, Joe Turley, possibly Dick Willmott, and (to some extent) Hank Mather). Everyone else hiked (not necessarily summit-oriented) or climbed summits, hard or easy according to their abilities and tastes. Ex-Brits like Ashlyn Armour-Brown and Hamish Mutch were both highly competent mountaineers and rock climbers, better on the rocks than most of the home-grown crowd.
Jim Baldwin went on a few BCMC trips and did a few things with Dick Culbert, but was mainly a rock climber. Ed Cooper was competent at both (and was to some extent part of the Beckey group). Fred, of course, did both. He was the mainstay of the early climbs at Leavenworth, starting in the late 1940s, in the Peshastins and Castle Rock. But even Fred and Pete Schoening were succeptible to "summit fever." How else to explain why hard-to-reach Tumwater Tower and Chumstick Snag were among the earliest acents in the Leavenworth area? Fred liked obscure, backwater pinnacles as much as anyone.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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BK sighting.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2013 - 12:40am PT
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12d? Heath hazard at penny lane?
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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12D!?!?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Health Hazard 10a/14d R/X/yur gonna die
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Fred, of course, did both. He was the mainstay of the early climbs at Leavenworth, starting in the late 1940s, in the Peshastins and Castle Rock. But even Fred and Pete Schoening were succeptible to "summit fever." How else to explain why hard-to-reach Tumwater Tower and Chumstick Snag were among the earliest acents in the Leavenworth area? Fred liked obscure, backwater pinnacles as much as anyone.
I could not find a date associated with either pic. Any car experts out there?
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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The car looks like very late forties into very early fifties. I'm not sure of the make and I am too buzzed to go look it up. The car looks new. It could be as early as '48.
Hey Anders did you ever talk to Claunch? If you need more help getting the old guy to talk to you, let me know. The best way might be to see him personally.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Brownie sighting.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Cleft Bib is V17. Brownie is doing it wrong.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Harry: I know nothing about cars. But in the photo, left to right: Don WIlde, Fred Beckey, Pete Schoening. Phot by Fred.
Pete Schoening climbed extensively with Fred and others in the Cashmere Crags from 1948 to 1951; Dick Wilde did a few trips, too. The trio in the photo did one only climb together that I can track down: April Fools Tower on April 1, 1951. In other versions of this photo, there's plenty of snow nearby, so early spring seems about right. My best guess is that the photo is spring, 1951.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
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Thanks Glenn and all. There is nothing better than opening my favorite thread and finding another gold nugget of history!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Well the way you did that sit down start in the cave below with the overhead dbl heel hooks Before dynoing to what is normally the starting foothold at the lip seemed much more difficult than the reg way I've seen it done. Once you held the swing I knew it was at least 12+ but was only guessing, my bad- I'll edit the photo & upgrade it later. Just trying to stick with the consensus of handout grades at the bluffs, sorry for the sandbaggerry.
Hey Tricouni, awesome tower tales here, did u guys ever make your way up any of the ones in marble canyon? I always wondered the history on those & if they have seen many ascents, I'm sure they are choss but still quite striking formations.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Ryan: The big pinnacle in Marble Canyon, Chimney Rock, was climbed in 1957 by Hank Mather & Elfrida Pigou; this was probably the first route in Marble Canyon. It was done a few years later by Dick Culbert and (if memory serves) John Owen and once in a while since them. (It's got a summit, hence the attraction.) I never climbed it.
Dick and I did Schism Rock between Clinton and the Fraser in early 1964. I don't think it's had a repeat ascent, but Robin Barley has recently been developing various routes on the crags nearby. Rock is limestone, much as in Marble Canyon. Route is more or less up the centre edge between sun and shadow. Barley says the wall on the other side of the tower looks excellent. Rock here and in Marble Canyon is not choss, but it's not Squamish, either. Different rock, different styles.
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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relic, the photo is not a good example but i did in fact use the no hands dyno to where i am in the photo. thus making it a PMWU in the gumby grading system.. other wise known as a Pretty Mellow Warm-Up, Someone much wiser then myself once said "if there's nothing to hold onto put both hands on it", the trick to climbing overhanging slabs is to use that same technique with your feet (and sometimes even your nipples (that is, when things get really tricky)). This technically technical technique is quite a mid bender as it refutes the mathematical theory that nothing multiplied by something is still nothing; when, in fact, it is more nothing..
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Yeah, the orange stuff is ungood. Very crumbly in places.
Does anybody know if the same holds in the Rockies: grey - good; orange - bad?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Blue limestone = really good, gray-white= OK, yellow = sketch, red/brown = yer gonna die. Limestone quality system.
If it's black and in the Rockies it's probably shale and not limestone and hence probably a scree ledge. Sometimes the whole Rockies seem like a scree ledge though.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Did the northeast face of Park Mountain in the Rockies. Black, small shale-scree, and steep. That was choss!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2013 - 04:53pm PT
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Bruce, ya I should be.. I'm sled mechanic today. shred tomorrow for sure.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Is there still going to be a get together at fishboys place this week?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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I like the steep orange stuff with monkey business. What's the limestone like at August Jack up by Ashcroft? Any of u guys ever take a peek? I know there was a thread awhile back with some interior limestone teasing going on....
Thanks for the reply Glenn, may have to wander up to chimney rock there & get some wood ticks one of these summers.
Edit- Oregon Jack, thanks.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Heli-skiing could be phased out over 3 - 5 years, allowing a reasonable transition. If the proposed Spearhead Range huts are built, they may in any case have the incidental effect of making heli-skiing in and near them less marketable.
There's ample opportunity for largely unrestricted mountain biking (and for that matter snowmobiling) outside the Park, which is to say in far more than half of the area accessible from the Squamish - Pemberton highway. Mountain biking is quite limited now in the Park, and any expansion would create major management challenges. Construction, maintenance, boundaries, etc. A can of worms best left unopened.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Thanks for the reminder Bruce. I got yer message Tami, check for a reply-thanks!
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Hardly Visible
Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
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Before the subject of obscure pinnacles drifts too far, how about Vulcans Thumb.
Anybody ever bag that thing?
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Health Hazard, a bit of trivia.
I seem to remember at one point it only had only one bolt, ( may be wrong having premature Alzheimers) and a fall after the only bolt , before placing the next piece of gear was really a health hazard.
I meet some one who fell in that section , and missed decking by a three feet, he was still ghost white 24 hrs later!
Man, he looked like a walking zombie!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Most of the rock at Oregon Jack is gray limestone and superb. Only problem is lack of pockets. Garry Brace has a 13c ? roof project there. The only stuff I've climbed is the V1 finger crack on the parking lot boulder though. I heard one of the bolted routes goes at 10d but wasn't motivated. Maybe it was the two foot deep drift of rat droppings at the base that shrunk my sac, I dunno.
There is a bunch of rotten orange yellow rock at OJ too but it's not easy to get to. It's way over left of the falls.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Speaking of Clinton-area limestone, Mt Bowman has some solid crags with rock equal to the best of MC. Only drawback is the 2 hr approach hike from the ranch
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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That is one mean teaser photo .
Robin B told me there is a 30 minute approach to more crags further along Kelly Lake rd. I meant to head up there last sunmmer, maybe this year. I've been told there are also good crags off a spur on Jesmond road towards the Fraser.
Have Drill will Travel.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Rolf you might be interested in this crag on Meadow Lake Road. I think it's on reserve land though. Better bring Perry along if you head up there to bolt. He can deploy the peace pipe.
This next one is just across the road from the other one.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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There was always a bit of a mystery attached to the FA of Chimney Rock in Marble Canyon. The 2nd ascent party of Culbert/Owens was unable to find any indication of how the first party had rapped off.....and they certainly did not climb down. The next ascent was made by Dick, Ted Stevens and myself in Sept 1962. Fairly long approach, good rock [I think], and a fun climb. Wow, that was over 50 years ago.
A year or so later, Dick took a BCMC trip there. With typical Culbert humour, he put a couple of hard sun-dried cow patties in his pack, and then placed them on the summit, which was surprisingly large and quite flat--to the amazement/consternation of his partners! Definitely a WTF moment.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Hamie, that photo of you leading is so cool!
And the cow patties?! Lol
Pretty amazing these old stories are, thanks for sharing guys. Solid gold.
So Bruce, what you are saying on the chossometer southern caribou/lillooet limestone chart is that the best stuff would likely be used for bathroom tiles if it was found anywhere in Europe besides the UK?
At least it looks really cool:-)
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MH2
climber
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Mutch appreciated, hamie.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Bruce: I never did the outer peak of Black Tusk, or the Table. Of my generation of Squamish (to keep the thread on track) clibmers, Dick Culbert did them both, solo. Arnold Shives did the outer peak of the Black Tusk when he was 17, with Frank de Bruyn. Dan Tate (University Wall) climbed the Table.
Here's a photo of Arnold on top of the Tusk, taken by Frank, just a month before he was killed on Garibaldi.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Yeah, way better than yellow limestone, but not nearly as good as the stuff in the Touch & Go Towers...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2013 - 02:18pm PT
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Cool. I've heard the tusk is a little Chossy... ;)
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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it looks delightful!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
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Not much pro I take it? :)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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So.
How often does the tusk see a winter ascent?? Hehehe
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2013 - 04:32pm PT
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Ill take granite cracks instead... Thanks ;)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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My friends Len and Bill did the Tusk in March 1978, but I suspect it had been done in the winter before then.
I haven't heard of anyone doing the outer peak of the Tusk - the one that's just a few m north of the one that most go to, and a tad higher - since the 1960s. Nor have I heard of anyone doing the blocky peak further north, sometimes called the Bishop's Mitre.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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I did the main (not outer)peak of the Black Tusk in full winter conditions in 1959; no doubt it had been done earlier. I don't know of any winter ascents of the outer peak. The Bishop's Mitre has apparently been climbed but I don't remember details. There was (is?) a cairn on top.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Anders doesn't roll with the times. Outer summit of the Tusk's been done 4 or 5 times at least in the last 10 years. Trip reports on the internet and everything.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I admit that tracking whether the outer and barely higher summit of the Tusk has been climbed recently is quite low on my priority list. In fact, it isn't even on it. Although as a novelty climb it would probably earn the participants some notoriety, should they want to talk. And I admit to once taking gear in that general direction, with at least the idea...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Purely by chance, I was reading a relevant edition of the B.C. Mountaineer (2012), which addresses many such fascinating questions.
The first white known to have visited Black Tusk Meadows was Billy Gray, in 1912. The area had been seen from BCMC camps and climbs in the Garibaldi area, and he surmised that it was accessible from the Cheakamus River side. So by himself, he took the steamer to Squamish (then briefly called Newport), then a motorized 'stage' to Brackendale. He then hiked the Pemberton Trail to Stony (now Rubble) Creek, and found a way to the meadows, near the modern trail. Two weeks later the club camp was held at the meadows, using his route, although they used packers and horses to get the gear to Stony Creek.
The 1912, 1913 and 1914 BCMC camps at Black Tusk Meadows provided a major impetus to the creation of Garibaldi Park. Many of the peaks around and east of the lake were first climbed at those camps, and the first recorded ascent of the Tusk was by Gray, in 1912. The outer peak was first climbed by the redoubtable Tom Fyles in 1917, and its first female ascent by Miss Emmie Milledge at the 1926 club camp, which was attended by about 100 people altogether.
Some photos of the area, and a few ellipsis, at http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/655919/A-Lazy-Hazy-Crazy-Day-TR
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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It's funny that we are always amazed at how young some of the top climbers of the day are but when I look at all the climbers on this thread including the veterans, pretty much everyone started when they were in diapers it seems. I came out of the starting gate late at 20. Who's the youngest start up here?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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I started when I was 20 too.
My guess would be, although he hasn't posted in a coons age, micro Marc as the youngest to get started, at 9 I think.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Tom Fyles descending from the first ascent (solo) of the outer, higher peak of the Black Tusk. 1917. Look, no rope! Looks like he built a cairn on top.
Those guys were great!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Great pic Tricouni!What was the rock shoe of choice for 1917?
Anders, I was thinking rock climbing or peak bagging.
Here's a couple of young whipper snappers who might want to reconsider what middle age is.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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For the record, I hitched up to Squamish on the way back to the Island after doing a stint clearing pipeline right of ways out of Fort St. John. I was fifteen, that would have been 73 and I was so inspired after watching Big Jim and Janine climb the Grand in the just released Vertical Desert that I HAD to check out the Chief. Arrived after dark, bivied by the long gone locomotive in Stan Clarke Park, had breakfast at the Chieftain then started exploring.
Tried to solo a route on the Apron that I later learned was the Slob just right of Slab Alley. Chickened out on a grassy layback. Hiked up to the base of the Grand and watched Kevin McLane lead the first pitch of Exasperator using pins for pro (and a point of aid). He lashed me into the end of the rope with a bowline on a coil and I managed to get 30 feet up on tope rope before there were no more edges for my mountaineering boots.
Made it back to the Island and climbed my first peak, Mt Albert Edward at 6500' the highest peak on the Forbidden Plateau and was totally hooked on whatever I was experiencing.
I got in trouble with the law and met Fred Put assisting on a session for Hoods in the Woods and he took me on a trip to Mt Arrowsmith. He rigged a makeshift harness and let me try a couple rappels and I third classed some stuff he later told me was easy fifth and thought I was crazy.
Later that summer I went on a Ramblers trip to Marble Meadows where I met Peter Croft, his friend Simon and a crusty old guy named Tom DeGroot who would have been at least thirty at the time. We crossed Strathcona Park climbing a bunch of peaks including the Golden Hinde (I declined the summit) and arrived at the Gold River Highway five days later.
It was almost three years before I met Dave Lane reading climbing books at ABC. He was fifteen, already out of school and pounding nails for a living, had just taken a mountaineering course and needed a partner. We hitched to Squamish, climbed Diedre with me in a swami, wool knickers and vibram boots.
Climbed the Grand with Dave about eight weeks later and the rest as they say, is history.
Hamish still has all of us beat for the toddler's start.
He told me the other day that by age eleven he'd save up a couple bucks and go buy a single carabiner with no idea how or when he'd use it.
He sure showed us!
Just noticed I hit the 4800th post on Big Mike's awesome thread.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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That's at Sunny Knob, Greg.
Great story Perry! I'd love to hear how you started Tricouni?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Cool story perry, & cool perspective gf. Are u from the plateau Perry? Or comox? I got a group of friends that grew up on forbidden plateau rd, wild men- the whole lot of em'!
Really cool how u guys pursued climbing with so many unknown aspects- I would have loved to have learned to climb as a kid but it was so enigmatic that I would have had no idea where to begin. I kind of knew what it was but it didnt really exist growinv up. Luckily I moved to whistler for powder & hedonism when I was 18 & after a few years in the smog I decided to take the southern route back to Kamloops, on the way back to moms fridge I went thru Squamish for the first time & I knew upon seeing the place that I had to learn how to climb. It took a few more years but finally I got an opportunity to go. Phew!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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I climbed in Victoria during ages 11 and 12 before ever making it to the big time in Squampton. It seemed my brain was consistent with my size, both tiny. When I finally saved enough money for a rope, I promptly cut it in half so I would have two. When I eventually made it to the real cliffs on the mainland I had some explaining to do. Tough learning curve.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2013 - 11:00am PT
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Classic tales guys!! I love that you guys grew up on the island too! I'm a Campbell River transplant! ;)
Hamish I guess you learned how to pass a knot early in your career? ;)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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I've always said the best way to avoid passing a knot is to just not eat one in the first place.
I've always said that.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2013 - 11:34am PT
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Damn Bruce, we need to get you the official court jesters hat! ;) only 189 more quips till rolfr's 5000 speech! ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2013 - 11:53am PT
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You're on a acid regimen? That does explain a few things ;)
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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There's a few more start up stories from other regulars that I'd love to hear still.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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If you got some for sale ill take a bakers dozen
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2013 - 12:40pm PT
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I did mine awhile back no? Maybe I'll go dig it up...
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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I was 6 years old and in prison on extortion, terrorism and conspiracy convictions, climbed the fence out of Aggasiz maximum security and never looked back
So up yours you lightweight sons of bitches !
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2013 - 01:18pm PT
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What about your Origins bk? I realize after looking back that I've told mine in bits and
pieces so I will have to give it a proper treatment..
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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When I started climbing at Squamish, p'terodactyls still nested on the Chief.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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bk,
I'd have to dig into the archive of less than 100 photos taken pre 2000 and do some scanning.
K2 was my first film job.
Got the call after another day running grapple yarder for Elaho Sept 9/90.
I asked the PM when they wanted me to start.
"Next day 06:00, having had" he replied.
"Can I call you back in a few minutes?"
Thought about it for ten minutes and thought "Fuk it, logging sucks,time to change it up".
Called the PM back and said yes.
Went back to the shop and told the Super and Siderod to find a new grapple operator.
"Why" they asked?
"I quit" I replied.
K2 was a huge adventure followed by Medicine Man and Cliffhanger.
Can't believe how quickly two decades goes by when you measure time in features and careers.
Here's the gang on top of Bute Mountain wrapping up after GI Joe 2.
Working with my friends on one of the best jobs I've ever had.
Left to right back row
Paul McSorley, Jason Kruk, John Willcox, Dave Edgar, Jia Condon, Scott Flavelle
Front row
Chris Atkinson, Val Fraser, PB, Paul Berntsen
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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those things are still up there anders; i heard them screeching with delight as they conjured up evil plans during the first night of zorro's. As the wind whipped our ledge and rippled the fly it swirled a frenzy of ancient sounds, a collective of voices swept from the cliff's face and swooshed through every available weakness of our nylon fortress. All I could translate (with skills acquired during my brief undertaking as a p'tero-translator) were "bear" and "breakfast"; before, with a jolt, the ledge tilted and torqued, nearly tossing The Kid into the darkness. After the crisis was averted and as the chinese bolts creaked and our ledge strained under the weight of our three bear bottoms I happened to find my mind wandering to a summer day in the year 2010. Gripped, soaked with swet and slipping from my purchase on the rock face I had found myself on, the soft soles of my Vans were melting off of the foot holds. I stared at the ductape wrapped around the shoes and cursed it, avoiding having to curse myself for thinking it would work. Terror was all I felt as I shuffled my hands; watching them slap the rock, wondering why I could not feel my fingers. The old Vans went first and then my useless grip on the rock failed and I froze as the rope became taught, my weight caught up in the ancient webbing that made up the harness I was borrowing from my friends dad. Relief flushed my body as I relaxed in the harness, but was soon followed by aching forearms and my pleas to be lowered. Down I went, ignorant to how soon or how strong the urge to return to that hair raising place would be..
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Yes Bruce, sadly a lot of them are dead from logging accidents or the perils of the lifestyle.
Over a dozen of my former logging accomplices were killed in the bush, the most recent last fall.
Another dozen met an untimely and ignoble demise having too much fun with illegal substances, driving motorcycles or hanging out with the wrong people.
Lord knows I had my fair share of close calls on and off the job and am glad to have survived.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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We were all pretty much the same, weren't we? Teenage real-world refugees, looking for something, but not really knowing what.
I grew up a thousand km from the nearest mountain or cliff, but quite close to some crazy-wild wilderness. Started paddling when I was thirteen and guided my first trip at 15. When I moved to BC I found the water was way too cold but I met a guy who climbed rocks. He took me out one day -- Slab Alley in my work boots -- and that was it. Fifty years later I've slowed down a lot, but I'll be up in Squamish as often as possible this summer and there are plenty of things I'll be happy to have you kids tow me up.
And for what it's worth, I never worked in a logging camp. But I think working on a fire crew in the Chilcotin in probably close enough to give me honorary status.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2013 - 05:09pm PT
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Hey Ghost, KM says you were part of the FA of Merci me with big jim s, any tales from that one?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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IIRC, there were two David Harrises. Just as David Nicol, a Vancouver born and bred climber, is sometimes confused with an English climber named David Nichol.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
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I thought so.. It seemed a little odd..
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Those KM guide books are inaccurate, my name is often misspelled as Les MacDonald or sometimes very erroneously spelled as "Robin Barley"
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Hey Ghost, KM says you were part of the FA of Merci me with big jim s, any tales from that one?
When I first got to Squamish, I found that some guy there had been using my name. So I had him killed, which solved the problem.
It also had the side benefit of making everyone who started climbing after that think that I'd done his ascents.
The interesting thing about this particular bit of history is that he stopped climbing just before I started, so there was never a time during which there were two climbers there with that name. Which is probably why a lot of people think there was only one.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2013 - 05:37pm PT
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Hahahaha... That's some mis-spelling! ;) I've been burned by Kevin before... That's why I always start with "km says" when I ask about historical references from his book.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2013 - 06:00pm PT
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Thanks Dave, we cross posted. So that's how you racked up all those early ascents! ;)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I never logged and I never tree planted and I never heli ski guided
Then I guess we have no real choice but to kick you out of the club, do we?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Probably BK never even attended, or instructed, at the FMCBC mountaineering course. Looser! The sine qua non for Vancouver climbers of a certain vintage.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Hey, it's spelt "phatthead", not "fathead".
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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No Bruce, the FMBC has been relegated to less auspicious digs.
The most public facing and high profile aspect of the organization morphed from a subsidized outdoor education facility for public benefit into a privatized guiding company now known as Canada West Mountain School.
Hardly makes for a level playing field.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Bruce get it right . Joe Turley gave me the best nickname, after seeing my bloody hands from a battle with a Squamish crack. "Ruff Lieback"
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Hey, I thought I came up with that!
I think Joe stole it.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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I know bmacd started his outdoor career pretty early. I don't know if he started there but like Jim Brennan, Elspeth Hayter and Jim Haberl they were all lucky enough to attend the TREK program at Prince of Wales highschool.
At my highschool in Hamilton Ontario I was not even allowed to join the outdoor club because they thought I was a trouble maker. I thought outdoor clubs were for helping challenged teenagers not excluding them. I still remember that teachers name, what an assh---. I was not a troublemaker as such I just skipped alot of school because I couldn't sit indoors at a desk all day.
Bruce?Jim? more info.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Was the TREK programme the one where the students sunbathed nude on the teacher's sailboat etc. etc?
Hamish's rapping problem at Fleming Beach clearly happened before MH's 5 part, suspense filled description of how he passed the knot on Mt. Austerity in the Adamants. I could hardly sleep awaiting the next gripping episode. A classic ST tale of terror and desperation, and a must read for all aspiring climbers.
Just yankin' yer chain MH.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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That's funny Perry. I'm watching Cliffhanger on TV right now. So classic! Love the real climbing action in it!
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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SoS request to all squamtonians! I repeat, SoS request! Thanks to intensityof snow and feeblness of van, I have found myself trapped in squamish forn the night. Specifically, the corner of the brewpub bar... will anyone come rescue a list soul? Or at least nbe a drinking buddy....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2013 - 11:19pm PT
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Relic the best part is at the start when she falls and the guy in the heli is laughing his bag off the whole time :)
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Working on Cliffhanger was the adventure of a lifetime.
Business class travel to a swanky hotel in Cortina for three months, Huey 205s and telepheriques to the office with Bubba, Kauk, Bridwell, Gullich and the gang, epic drilling and trundling, giant envelopes full of per diem every Thursday and pay checks in greenbacks from an offshore bank!
And the coffee and grub was pretty good too!
The movie sucks big time.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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I'll come for pint after I finish these tacos
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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Sweet. I've got those big cams in the van somewhere.... ythat 5 saved my ass in the fishers big time. You can't miss me, I'm the one with the crutches... :-/
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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Took a nasty dive down a gully un red rocks a couple days ago while scouting the approach to a wall there.Cartwheeled about 6m down a gnarly gully. Feel pretty lucy that I got away with only a badly sprained ankle. Unfortunately I've now got something that resembles a large purple melon at the end of my leg..... slightxly curtails wall plans in the near future
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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Cheers Jim, means a lot coming from a fellow Brennan :-)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Unfortunately I've now got something that resembles a large purple melon at the end of my leg..... slightxly curtails wall plans in the near future
Huh? What kind of wuss are you? How many legs to you need for aid climbing? I thought you Irish guys were real.
Edit: Maybe it's a Brennan thing. Your namesake once bailed off a wall cuz he'd hurt his hands... Totally light.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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That sounds like an amazing gig Perry. Love to hear the stories behind that one.
Shitty Paul! I think last time we saw you was with Tom Evans right after you got off Mescalito. You were dying for burgers and beer. Haha.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Hamie if you want to sleep with hot young debutantes in upscale Vancouver, you should have been teaching high school in the seventies.
Us students had our fun as well
Good times as I recall.
Jim don't be so bitter....
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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But Ghost, I did what any self respecting irishman would do when faced with great adversity...... I went to the pub!
And yes, I'm well aware that I'm a pussy. I worked out all the excuses I could use to get out of aid climbing without actually admitting to fear. My personal favourites are "the forecast is for rain", "i would go, but I promised id meet my friend somewhere far away from here", and the eternal favourite "I just couldn't find the right partner". I live in fear of the day when I might actually have to climb something......... it'd be so much easier to pretend to be a mountaineer, I could just say that everything is out of.condition all the time! Oh well....
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Luckily, it's almost always safe to comment "it looks like it may rain" when climbing at Squamish.
Contrary to someone's remark, I spent two summers in the bush in central and northern B.C., doing geological exploration. Including some wild places it would have otherwise have been hard to get to, some weeks of chainsaw work, and several hundred hours in helicopters. Which, combined with John Bryan's death in 1977, helps explain my aversion to those machines.
The first climb I did on my own at Squamish was when I was 15, but I'd started mountain hiking (Chief, Hollyburn, Diamond Head, Baker, Olympics, etc) with my parents when I was about seven, and with scouts when I was ten. My dad used to get us out/helping with the Province hikes, in the mid 1960s - he was with the Mountain Rescue Group. Once, probably 1966, I got to help put handlines at the steeper bits of the Chief trail, and indeed went up and down the Chief twice in a day.
I've never stooped to being a guide, but am a certified climbing instructor in Norway, and have had several summers entertainment utilizing it.
I'll refrain from adding any of the interminable stories that are so popular with the peanut gallery.
ps I hope that both the Brennan-gimps heal up soon.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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What were the questions again? Not that all stories necessarily need be told, by me or others.
Perhaps BK should read the clause immediately following that which he quotes, and ask whether it's possible his leg is being pulled.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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I've never stooped to being a guide, but am a certified climbing instructor.
So When do you plan on becoming a real climber ? You are running out of time Anders
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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I've never stooped to being a guide,
I resemble that remark.
PB, ACMG Alpine Guide
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Those who live in glass houses...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
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Should have bullet proof glass? ;)
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Been following this thread for a while now. Hot D#mn I have got to get to The Chief!
But I digress.
The reason I'm posting is to say "thanks" to all the participants on this thread.
Thanks for remaining civil, with no bickering or flexing what I call "keyboard muscles".
It's nice to see at least one thread that's staying true to what it's all about=CLIMBING!
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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My DAUGHTER did Trek :-D.
Yes I saw Mr Treks video... And I thought BC QUEST was liberal
Hope you are still keeping her locked up in the house after dark?
I am available for baby sitting services if you want to get away for a while....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2013 - 09:41pm PT
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Wow Evel, thanks. We have our disagreements on occasion, but compared to the rest of st we're pretty civil ;)
Bruce ya I got up this morning. It was heavy. Not like the nice light stuff we've had all year! Still pretty good, typical whistler snow not too wet. Pretty busy, I think half the city took the day off!!!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Headed to the koots in the morning would like some blotter pm me with any leads
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MH2
climber
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I don't remember my climbing origins. Fortunately, my mother took notes:
"His first steps were at 10 1/2 mo. At that age he could climb into chairs and the sofa and let himself down as well.
By '51 he was climbing up into the little shrubby tree by the back door. He neatly turns around and lets himself down from high places.
For his second birthday we took him to the San Antonio Zoo which delighted him..."
That zoo is where the idea of climbing rocks and the amazing athletes doing it so impressed my little mind.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 10, 2013 - 12:07am PT
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BK that clip almost makes sense. Scarey.
Contrary to what some of you may have heard:
.....There is no good skiing/powder in the Koots.
.....There is no good rockclimbing.
.....There is no good mountaineering or alpine rock.
.....There are no 'klassy womens', or 'burn your eyeballs babes'.
It is better to stay at the coast, or head directly to the Rockies. The Kootenay Chamber of Commerce and the Tourist Bureau lies like a bouldering mat.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jan 10, 2013 - 01:14am PT
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bk, where the hell did you find that?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 10, 2013 - 01:42am PT
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Pardon the minor interruption, but... January 10, 2013 is the absolute last day for submitting comments regarding the proposed amendments to the Garibaldi Park Master Plan. Most important is to provide your opinion regarding whether or not to continue to allow heli-skiing in the Spearhead Range near Whistler.
http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/planning/mgmtplns/garibaldi/garibaldi_mp.html
Get on it, people.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 10, 2013 - 04:18am PT
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Haha that video is awesome. Have fun Luke, keep at it- you'll get that 1000cc yamahaw soon!!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 10, 2013 - 10:03am PT
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Uhh, how many hits that guy take? hundreds? OOOMMMMMMEEEEEE GOOOOOODdddddddd
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 03:52pm PT
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Bump for the parks. I just submitted my comments.
Is that climbing weather Bruce? Hmm.. Interesting..,
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Jan 10, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
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it's prime time to climb!! git some!
everyone and their dog is out today, well at least one guy and his dog.. i know because the poor little pooch just took a bail off the top of funOrama. I ran over and checked out the pup as his owner made his way down the fixed lines and apart from some scratches on his paws he seemed to be alright. yikes!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 10, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
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Didnt even make it out of whistler and i hit a road block..
Im locked in the back of the patty wagon and theyre searching my truck flr da cid.
Turns out they were tipped off by a narc named Bruce Macdonald..
Im sure theyll take my phone in no time.
TKC over and out
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
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Poor pooch
Whut? You trollin?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 10, 2013 - 05:18pm PT
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The cid' cormier
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jan 10, 2013 - 07:24pm PT
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Next week looks like full on global warming so pull out the sunscreen and book off sick with a bad case of norwalk virus
WEll....you mean once you get above the fog and the inversion right....
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 10, 2013 - 07:30pm PT
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Maybe the blackcomb spire will be ready for an ascent next week if this inversion rumour becomes reality? BK what do you think? Too much snow still or is it possible?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 07:43pm PT
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The 11 will be good to go! The main trad route always has a snow patch to deal with...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 10, 2013 - 07:51pm PT
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Here is a historical pic from 1990 of the base of Burgers and Fries. The VOC to blame for the webbing harness and hip belay. Everything else is my fault.
The scariest thing about this pic is that there was still vegetation at the bottom of Burgers and Fries in 1990.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Jan 10, 2013 - 07:59pm PT
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TKC I am presently working undercovers in Tehran, infill-trating the Ayatollahs harem - please do not mention my name again on the internet until I return to Canada.
Thank you
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 10, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
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Oplo, it looks as if they are standing and flying kites! Great photo.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 10, 2013 - 08:13pm PT
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I can't claim to be anything other than a model in that pic. It was taken by Ken Legg. A couple years later the slide made its way into my hands.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 10, 2013 - 08:35pm PT
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Nice shoes!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 10, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
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Haha Drew, outed! I knew u guys used to do some sketchy stuff but making your harness out of athletic tape just seems like a bad idea.
Edit- thanks Mike, would there be snow on top (could u top out?) or would it just be the first pitch that is doable, sorry I should just go check it out but like Anders I don't really do blackcomb, that & I'm lazy.
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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Jan 10, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
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Are folks still on for a wee get together tomorrow? Fish? Mike? Would he nice to see everyone
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 10, 2013 - 09:44pm PT
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Hey thanks Bruce, sounds awesome. Morning sun right? I'd love to fire a bolt in but me batteries are pretty good for 1 bolt each in summer temps so I'd be pretty f'in surprised if I could pick my nose with a 3/8 bit on top of Blackcomb in Jan. -maybe I could do my best Sid Cormier impression & smash some iron in there.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 10, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
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The first pitch is relentless 10 - 11 pet wall climbing.
Sounds like a good place to practice dry tooling. It'd fit in with the industrial ambience, too.
Dru, nice period photo!
Anyone up for a gentle outing Saturday or Sunday?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 09:51pm PT
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Yes Dru. Thanks cool pic.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 10, 2013 - 09:59pm PT
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Perhaps for some, Blackcomb and Blackcomb Spire are untrammeled ƃuıʞɔnɟ wilderness. Not for me.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 10, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
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Thanks Bruce, i'll let u know. If not this stretch of high pressure, sometime this winter for sure. We'll see how warm it gets, I just started to get feeling back in my fingers yesterday from pet last week.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 10, 2013 - 10:13pm PT
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I preferred climbing and skiing in that area before it was developed. The fact that the land was later taken out of Garibaldi Park for private development without any real public process still ƃuıʞɔnɟ rankles.
I admit that I have tried the Blackcomb lifts. Once.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 10, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
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No its not wilderness but neither is squamish
Understatement of the year award for that one. Squamish is pretty much top-of-the heap for industrial-ambiance climbing. Been a long time since I've been in the country above and behind Whistler and Blackcomb, so I can't comment on that, but anybody who loves Squamish can hardly be bothered by any kind of pollution -- noise, human, industrial, whatever.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 10:18pm PT
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Sure its all tracked out
Yes the areas that are accessible from the t bar but if you're willing to venture a little further there are plenty of amazing lines to ride in that valley that rarely get hit.
You can have the most amazing run of your life, while you look at tracked out runs across the valley.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jan 10, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
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It must be winter because the entertainment factor of channel S is brimming. When it's an arctic outflow, you're allowed double portions of Special Kay each day.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 10:35pm PT
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sʎnƃ ʇı ǝlƃooƃ
;)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 10, 2013 - 10:55pm PT
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Sounds like Big Mike & Anders have joined anonymous, they are the only organization with the cyber abilities to do such crazy things.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 11:04pm PT
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I thought you were their st rep Ryan? ;)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 10, 2013 - 11:27pm PT
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Yes, I've been to the McBride Range. On foot. Sometime must scan and post slides thereof.
The process whereby Whistler/Blackcomb took significant chunks out of Garibaldi Park, not just the Blackcomb Glacier but much more, began in the early 1970s. If we allowed ski areas to remove land from parks based on real or feigned claims of "public safety", we wouldn't have any parks. They remove the land to maximize their development, i.e. profit. Don't kid yourself.
Pretending that Blackcomb Glacier is still a provincial park in any real sense is absurd. It's hardly managed for conservation values, and I rather doubt that BC Parks has much say in what goes on there.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 11, 2013 - 12:22am PT
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Is there some reason they couldn't have developed say Rainbow Mountain - outside the park - instead? Admittedly, when Whistler was first developed and opened in 1965/66, having a ski area adjacent to a park was seen as appropriate - although they wouldn't then remove land from the park. That cam in the 1970s, and up to 1991. But when they wanted to expand in the later 1970s, why couldn't they have done so on Rainbow instead?
Sure, downhill skiing fits a bit better in or beside a park than say strip mining or drag racing. But shouldn't the first question always be "is there somewhere reasonable outside the park where this can be done?"
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Jan 11, 2013 - 12:32am PT
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Paul, Mike, other people wanting to catch up...wanna do it at the Spew Pub since my house is really messy and I can't be shagged putting things away for another week at least.
I'll be home from work around 6.30. Meet after 7?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 11, 2013 - 12:53am PT
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Is there any protected area which you consider off-limits to development? If so, why? Or must money always have its way?
a dyed in the wool old crusty BCMCer Those annoying people who we can thank for there being a park in the first place, you mean? Sort of like your dad?
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 11, 2013 - 12:56am PT
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The only vegetation I see in that pic is on your face Drew,brave lad for posting that. Now how about some of you Jim B back in the day wearing your coke bottle glasses?
This is a great vid,enjoy http://vimeo.com/57013156
I heard a rumour that the 5000th poster gets a free pair of rock shoes from Big Mike,size 18.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Jan 11, 2013 - 01:24am PT
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Bruce said "process" Beavis, hhhuuugggghhhh,hhhuuuggghh....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 01:35am PT
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Anders. Bruce is right, Rainbow isn't a ski resort. The terrain just isn't there + it's our watershed man! There was a rumour that al reign had plan going for it but it never came out.
As to the extension and the politics around it you can always count on the government to do the right thing for their pocketbook. It is unfortunate, but we see it time and time again.
It is fortunate however for skiers and snowboarders, who realistically would be using the terrain anyways. Remember the Flute expansion only came after those snowboarders from Vancouver knocked off a huge chunk of cornice with one of the guys riding it as it fell. It ended up splashed all over the front page with pictures and everything.
If its accessible with a short hike and you can ride back to the lift, then it should be avalanche controlled because idiots go anyways and they know nothing.
A couple seasons back, whistler Blackcomb altered its early season avalanche control policies. They decided not to perform AC on spanky's or harmony ridge or any "area boundary" which would in normal conditions be considered inbounds. This policy resulted in at least two avalanche deaths, one in spanky's and one in secret chute aka negative chutes on harmony. The worst part about the one in harmony was my friends and I had been to that exact chute the week before and it went on us. My friend cut it and all the snow left the slope. We went around and he had to down climb with his skis on. We warned patrol that area was sketchy and suggested they do AC before opening it again. They didn't.
Point is, it might not be what you wanted, but it was inevitable and necessary.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 02:53am PT
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What did I miss?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 03:01am PT
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Harry does anyone really want my old shoes? ;)
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 11, 2013 - 03:09am PT
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I'm so confused. say wha?
Yur all on acid.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 11, 2013 - 03:42am PT
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Uh oh. Sorry to break it up.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 11, 2013 - 03:45am PT
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Oh yeah. Imma go there this weekend. Pinch a pebble.
Umm, high of -1 this weekend, meybe not then.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jan 11, 2013 - 10:48am PT
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I think Anders needs to rent some fat skiis, head up to W/B, and tag along with the crew for a day in downhill meca. Sure I would rather ride my bike but I've tagged along up there and it's OUTSTANDING. It makes Rainbow look like Mt. Washington.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 11, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
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Aaaarrerrrrgh I wish.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
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Gf when are you back? Bruce, nice pics! Cragging? Hmm...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
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Anders, I think I have time Sunday maybe?
Still trying to figure out what I wanna do for beers tonight.. It's gonna be an early morning so ill only be able to have one.....
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 11, 2013 - 03:55pm PT
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Yes, it's true. The Greg One and I have a playdate to go schralping in the gnar powpow sometime soon. (Hopefully he'll explain what that involves beforehand, if only so that I can be prepared.) Probably somewhere not very novel or challenging. I've managed to prevail upon him to compromise his principles to the extent of using an infernal combustion powered vehicle for the approach, but it will otherwise be as ideologically pure an adventure as is feasible.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 11, 2013 - 04:05pm PT
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but it will otherwise be as ideologically pure an adventure as is feasible.
Not so fast, oh Sanctimonious One: Where do you think the plastic grips on your ski poles were made? Probably in a sweatshop in some third-world country.
Ideological purity isn't really available any more. So just sit back, enjoy the ride up on the lift, and then shred.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
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Sounds good Greg! You should try and get out with eastside while your there! Say Hi for me.. ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 05:29pm PT
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35 more... Rolf you got your speech ready? ;)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 11, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
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Bump for the Squamish 5K
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 05:47pm PT
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I don't recognize that pitch... anyone else?
edit it's centerfold isn't it... still haven't done that one..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
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too late now. I i was there already for sure. we are going touring tomorrow i think then climbing sunday?
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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Jan 11, 2013 - 06:37pm PT
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Brew pub? 7? I'm there!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 06:39pm PT
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who else is coming! come on, if more people go i'll feel better about driving!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 11, 2013 - 06:48pm PT
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I didn't think I'd be starting a contest with that shot, but if that's what you want, it's fine by me. It's not Centrefold (Which should absolutely go to the top of your list for this summer Mike), and BK doesn't win any prize either.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 06:50pm PT
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Is it on the papoose? sorta looks like it..
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 11, 2013 - 06:50pm PT
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Just managed to pass some time reading BKs letter in the piqué. Very nice work Bruce, it's great to see your writing style isn't much affected whether its on ST or in a letter to the paper. Great job & strong message. it reminded me of a letter i read in there about a year back with some similarities, the issue was about parks removing land just like in yours but instead of the words heli-ski they used the word gondola in that other letter:-) regardless I'm not for either. The issues(gondola/heli ski) are very different of course but the arguments against them seem very similar from where I'm sitting & I'm against both for many of the same reasons. Cheers.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 11, 2013 - 06:53pm PT
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Is it on the papoose? sorta looks like it..
What, you want clues? Wuss.
But no, it is not on the Papoose.
No more clues. Well, except that it is not Lembert Dome.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 07:13pm PT
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Just trying to see if i'd narrowed it down at all....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 07:38pm PT
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Doesn't look like borderline.. Haven't seen the last pitch yet but I'm assuming you would see more greenery on top. I'm thinking something on the backside maybe?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 11, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
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keep to short spurts of climbin in the forest pebbles in between puff jacket thermal underoos wearing sessions weather!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 07:52pm PT
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Or Sunny Bluffs + puffs and mitts weather ;)
So instead of continuing to guess what dave's pic is, i'm gonna let someone else figure that one out and post my own.
Should be pretty easy..
Bonus points for the climber,
Extra bonus points for the belayer!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 11, 2013 - 07:58pm PT
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My guess is Borderline.
If that's your guess, then my guess is that you've never climbed Borderline. Nothing on Borderline looks remotely like that. But for what it's worth, I'd be surprised to find out that you haven't climbed the route in the picture.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 11, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
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U guys are getting trolled hard right now. That's a photo of the roadcut up by Murrin.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 11, 2013 - 08:09pm PT
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It's Kyle on something on the One Touque wall or whatever it's called. Belayer is not Nina judging by the man arms, Brownie maybe?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 08:15pm PT
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It is one toque crag, what climb? Not Kieran.
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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Jan 11, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
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today was delightful in the bluffs, crisp friction and warm sun! woohhoooo!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 11, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
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Finger fist hand, Kid Comer's arm
Ghost's pic look like the Malemeute, I think that is Quagmire Crack off to the left a bit.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 08:19pm PT
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Nice work Kieran!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 08:20pm PT
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And relic! You are correct.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 08:31pm PT
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What ghost's? ;)
Is Rolf in the house? ;)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 11, 2013 - 08:33pm PT
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And relic! You are correct.
Correct about your pic maybe, but not mine. JB should know, though.
I'm about to get on my bike and pedal home. Assuming I don't slip on any ice and break another hip, I should be home in about 45 minutes and will check in then to see if anyone gets the grand prize.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 08:35pm PT
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Yes. I guess I should have been more clear ;)
Dave you shouldn't even joke about that!! :) wishing you luck.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 08:59pm PT
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What is it Jim
Edit Fish, Paul you guys going?
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MH2
climber
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Jan 11, 2013 - 09:23pm PT
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Arrrrgggggg! Get home safely, Ghost, and quick! By eliminating pretty much everything else, is that Mushroom? I haven't been there in a while and don't recall what it looks like.
edit:
Yes, thanks Anders. In the meantime I checked your photos of Mushroom from Squamish in the 70s.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 11, 2013 - 09:33pm PT
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Is it Tantalus wall somewhere?
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Jan 11, 2013 - 09:56pm PT
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cool things to look at in the bluffs today too!
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Jan 11, 2013 - 09:59pm PT
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two can play at that game anders..
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Jan 11, 2013 - 10:12pm PT
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ya mike, u da man!!
i took a screenshot after hitting 5000 to put in my scrapbook of great achievements, but now i have to use it to disprove anders' claim..
i'm gonna resole those size 18's with touring skins, then i'll have a nifty way of accessing the backcountry, wooohoo!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 10:16pm PT
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Hahahaha!! Kieran you still got it buddy! No more
Deleting please!
We sent it! The fire will keep burning though. Where's Rolfr? ;) he's like Nostradamus or something! ;)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 11, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
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There was ice, but my Number-Two bike is pretty dependable (even if Foodeater makes fun of it). Which is good, since my Number One bike was stolen last month.
As to the other thing, Harry would have won the Grand Prize if he hadn't been so tentative. "Is it Tantalus Wall somewhere?" Of course it's f*#king Tantalus Wall. Look at that tiny little tree way way up at the top. Remember the "hammer throw?" Tie a rope to your hammer and huck it way up and around that tree and save yourself twenty feet of aiding.
Anyway, the picture was taken from above the big roof when I climbed it with Mr. Serl back in the dinosaur age.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
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Nice Ghost! Glad you made it home safe. Too bad about the bike. No news eh?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 11, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
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Oops sorry Mike, I thought we were gonna fuk around for a bit & I saw a chance to hook up OGJB with the 5G, since he's had me laughing from the get go
. Sorry Kieran, I'll give u a catch in the am if u want & hopefully were cool:-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 10:26pm PT
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Whatever :)
Jim deserves it. Especially being a gimp at the moment!!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 11, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
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Well Big Mike, Jim's feet are almost as big as yours so those size 18 rock shoes will be great for the alpine
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 11, 2013 - 10:51pm PT
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You guys know you can go back and delete some of your old posts and then that will change whose post is currently #5000 right?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 10:53pm PT
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Yeeehaw! I hate to disappoint, but their only size 13. Hopefully they will still be big enough to accommodate extra sock layers for alpine missions. ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 10:54pm PT
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Sure do, it's been juggled a few times.. You missed all the action! ;)
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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Jan 11, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
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hahah! but seriously, we're all winners in this forum ryanD..
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MH2
climber
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Jan 11, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
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Hurray for Big Jim.
Many thanks for this thread, Big Mike, and all the contributors.
Thanks David for putting the headache to rest.
On the Tantalus Wall of today the double curve exfoliation feature is the only thing I can be sure of in Ghost's photo. Here is the section just above the big roof and tree:
the mystery photo:
a look at the upper wall with climbers for scale:
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Jan 11, 2013 - 11:15pm PT
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Look for the double curving over-laps higher on the locator photo...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 11:19pm PT
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Nice work guys! Ya that's it for sure. Cool pics Andy!
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Jan 12, 2013 - 12:03am PT
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WTF, I get sick, self medicate with Bourbon and this thread hits 5000?
I'm off to Cochise Stronghold and JT for the rest of the winter and will post some photos of me slaying the moderates.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2013 - 12:05am PT
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sweet Rolfr!
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MH2
climber
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Jan 12, 2013 - 12:06am PT
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WTF, I get sick, self medicate with Bourbon and this thread hits 5000?
Better than any other arrangement of those I can see. Have a warm good time down there.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 12, 2013 - 12:11am PT
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The Stronghold Rules. It's like J-Tree, but for grown-ups.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 12, 2013 - 12:47am PT
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Nothing particularly great about this video other than its a few shots of a really fun outing back in the day on a classic Squamish climb.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 12, 2013 - 01:12am PT
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Maybe not particularly great, but very good. What year was it taken?
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 12, 2013 - 01:24am PT
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It was July 1990 and I remember it was a bad wudfibr day with that pungent perfume in the air,don't miss that.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 12, 2013 - 10:56am PT
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Tami the people in that video are myself leading the traversing crack, my ex wife Trish McCarthy from my practise marriage and John McCallum from NZ who lived here in Vancouver from 89 until 92. Met him sharing a cave bivi in the middle of the fiordland RAINforest. Later I found out he was born in the same hospital as myself, in Hamilton(the Hammer),Ontario that same year.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2013 - 11:09am PT
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Harry, thanks! I hope Nick sees that, should be just what he needed. After our winter epic he said "I never want to climb that again!", looks so much different not frosted over
Anders, thanks. Funny, I specifically didn't go for this one becuase I wanted someone else to have it, but I end up with it anyways... ;)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 12, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
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Did anyone climb at Squamish today? How was it? Sounds like it'll be a touch cooler and breezier on Sunday.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 12, 2013 - 09:17pm PT
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Anders,
Brrrrrrrrrrrr, it was chilly but fun. We got there a little too early I think. Stick to the sunny slabs & ur golden.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2013 - 12:31am PT
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We are still gonna try tomorrow Anders. Looks like it will be chilly...
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Jan 13, 2013 - 01:11am PT
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It's Winter, you guys... If it ain't in The Sun, You're Done!
Or suffery(!?), anyway. Unless you like that frozen sh#t.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 13, 2013 - 01:30am PT
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Unless you like that frozen sh#t.
It's what we live for.
Well, okay, it's what they live for. I've been living in the US long enough that I've turned into a wussy American. But until I left Canada, "that frozen shit" was the sh#t.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 13, 2013 - 03:28am PT
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Harry just watched that AC vid, cool stuff man. What kind of camera were u packing around BITD when u caught all this awesome footage?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 13, 2013 - 01:23pm PT
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I think Kieran Relic Nathan n I gonna do some sub zero bouldering up in the bluffs just east of cockburns in an hr or so if u want to scuff the heels on your climbing shoes Bruce your welcome to join.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 13, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
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What kind of camera were u packing around BITD when u caught all this awesome footage?
Hey Ryan, I'll give the abbreviated history of my experience with video cameras.
In 1985 I bough my first system from jvc, Camcorders were not out on the market yet so your camera was connected to a portable recorder by a cable like this one. My camera was larger than this one and did not include the shorts ( when did it become illegal for males to reveal their quads anyway?) This system weighed 12Ibs and was regular VHS (low quality 240 lines of resolution)I dragged that thing up countless mountains including Waddington.
My first camcorder came out a year later in 1986, it was big but weighed in at 5Ibs. It was also regular VHS but considerably lighter and used a mini casette
In 1989 super VHS and High8(Sony)came out and it was a considerable improvement with 400 lines of resolution. The Angels Crest vid was shot with this camera which weighed in at about 18 oz.
I had a couple of cameras after this but only for size reduction as the format was the limiting factor for resolution.
Then in 1997 the first digital camcorders came out,what a difference. I paid $3700 for this one at that time,they saw me coming. The advantages of the DV format was that you lost no quality from copy to copy unlike analog and the quality was light years better than super VHS.It only weighed 8oz.
I used this format untill 2007 when I bought an HD video camera which is unbelievable compared to previous formats.
So as the camcorders got better over the decades the amount of trips I recorded went down exponentially do to life getting in the way. I'm now waiting for that magical software that will convert old footage into HD quality,I think I'll be waiting a long time.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 13, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
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Nice Harry! thanks for the behind the scenes look at hot dog productions®©
That's awesome you were towing those rigs up walls & mountains, really cool to see your camera progression! That first one with the hip recorder must've been a beotch to tow around. Looks like it was worth it though because you have some pretty awesome memories captured.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 13, 2013 - 02:04pm PT
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For bonus points, when was the first film of climbing at Squamish made? What route? (Tricouni not eligible to particpate - sorry!)
Somewhere I think Harry even has film of me climbing, as does Allen A.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
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Was it the grand wall one with Jim Sinclair you showed us at the historical presentation? Can't remember the name...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 13, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
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Not "The Vertical Desert", although apart from CBC news clips of the Grand Wall ascent in 1961, it was probably the first professional movie made of climbing at Squamish, and shown on TV.
As it was -9 in Squamish at 9 AM today, and there are some urgent things to do here, I decided to pass on climbing today. Maybe later in the week, if/when an inversion takes charge.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
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;) thought so Anders. We are going to go check it out, but I'm keeping my expectations low ;)
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 13, 2013 - 02:28pm PT
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Hey Bruce, I have a hardware/sofware sysrem on my computer for converting. I'd be happy to convert any footage you have but if it's high8 I would need the camcorder also. I never used a stick and you can tell most of the time. I never considered myself a cinematographer just a climber who videoed some of his climbs. Now with so much time passed I wish I had put more emphasis on close-up people shots and interviews as that's what people like to see after all these years.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 13, 2013 - 05:47pm PT
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Brownie, great night photo!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2013 - 09:35pm PT
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Nice pic Kieran!
We got out this afternoon for a bit..
We went for a wander up to Penny Lane and passed some a team on quarry man
Saw some cool hoar crystals
It was pretty busy, so we left and ended up at Neat and Cool again.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 13, 2013 - 10:06pm PT
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Nice pic Kieran! Yes ditto, probably took some time to set up.
Bruce, the closer to the original the better for digitizing also I know the Bear has lots of high8 footage of the likes of Hamish,I'd love to get a hold of that and digitize it for archival reasons.
Anders, if you could help my memory a bit I will look for that footage of yourself, do you remember where it was taken as I don't recall off the top of my head.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 13, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
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Cloud layer huh Bruce? Is that what you say to keep the tourons away? It was so nice in Squamish today. The Grand Wall boulders was the place to be. Sending temps.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
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Yup.. Pretty cloudy. I called you Bruce but to no avail.. ;)
We warmed up on Mousetrap, Jermey's new 5.7 number left of corner crack. Kyle wanted the lead so I obliged. I led it this summer and it was his first time on it.
Kyle led the Flake too but I was belaying so no pic. After I took down the climb I got Kyle to send up my jacket so I could take a few pics and he decided he wanted to solo cornflakes.
Kyle on Cornflakes 5.7
Bearbreeder was there too and he was leading flying circus.
Bearbreeder on Flying Circus 10a
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 13, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
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Wait, Cornflakes is 5.7 now?
That route has been 3rd class since the 70s.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 12:04am PT
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Mclane has it at 5.6, it's 5.7 in Bourdon's new book. Definetly an excellent 3rd class prospect.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 14, 2013 - 12:30am PT
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Yeah fun day in the boulders!
Cool photos!
Anyone know if there's snow on the ground in hope?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 12:37am PT
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Eric's last peice is at his feet Tami...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 14, 2013 - 01:11am PT
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Wait, Cornflakes is 5.7 now?
That route has been 3rd class since the 70s.
What he said. We used to down solo it as a way off the top of that crag. Pretty cool sideways tunneling at one point.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 14, 2013 - 01:28am PT
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ya Cornhole Flakes is 5.7 now ever since the crux hold broke. Not the first crux, the fourth one where you grab that big flake thing. It shifted a little making it desperate and off-balance. I think the hand crack shrunk too or maybe I'm just a fatty.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 14, 2013 - 01:32am PT
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Jan 13, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
ya Cornhole Flakes is 5.7 now ever since the crux hold broke. Not the first crux, the fourth one where you grab that big flake thing. It shifted a little making it desperate and off-balance. I think the hand crack shrunk too or maybe I'm just a fatty.
+1000
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 14, 2013 - 01:43am PT
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Mike, look at the 2nd pic of Kyle on Cornholio(DEATH) Flakes. Does that look 5.7 to you? DOES IT PUNK??????
UHHHHUHH NOOOOOOPE.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 03:05am PT
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I love the reactions I get to the funny grades I find in the books ;)
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 14, 2013 - 04:57am PT
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Hey Mike, did I ever tell ya how much I enjoy yer pics. I also like your way with words.
Cheers again bro on a great thread.
I always come back and I am never disappointed.
Of course, all you other hosers make it real.
Most of you Frosties have already made the Shift.
Go ahead, roll yer eyes, I just been drinking.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jan 14, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
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My first time for that climb was a few decades ago and it's still quite fresh in my grey matter. I ran into Perry one day in the bluffs as we were both soaking up as many routes as possible. He talks me into health hazard, assuring me it's not too bad. I'd looked at that pitch on and off for years but somehow always heard and thought it to be very reachy. Perry's arms could probably span a full size domestic pick-up but I'm more like an import. Anyway, up I go with lots of encouragement from the Chief at the base. I survived, but it was reachy. Good thing I had faith in him having faith.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 10:04pm PT
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Wayno- Thanks man! Hoping you're gonna find some time to visit this winter!
Unless its cloudy then forget it, I'll move on to my other resolution to renew my relationship with taverns and beer, which I have neglected of late due to a woefully miss directed focus on health and fitness
LOL!! Good to see you have your proities straight Bruce! :)
Hamish- Thanks for the story! Would you be surprised to find out it sports a few shiny bolts these days? probably not.
I actually bothered editing some of my Iphone photos for a change..
Kyle on the way up from the loop trail
Sometimes things aren't as they appear....
It's actually pretty funny because Bearbreeder is very fond of good pro :)
These ones weren't going on the web without a watermark...
After a quick Kangaroo session we headed over to the Grand Wall Pebs to meet up with the gang.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jan 14, 2013 - 10:43pm PT
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A few bolts? Oh geeze, I hope I'm remembering the right climb. I was talking about the climb up the arete, but it only had two bolts at the most. The funniest part is if one were to sift through the Chief's rack for work, you'd find many sandbags, as weights.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 10:48pm PT
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Yup you are. There are still only two. I wasn't sure if there were any back in the day.
Sandbags eh? Did you guys play practical jokes with them or what ;)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 14, 2013 - 10:58pm PT
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I wouldn't know - I put them all in my friend's packs for safekeeping, and have no idea what they did with them.
[Add: Harry, didn't you get some film of me in a climbing competition at Cliffhanger once?]
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 11:02pm PT
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Sandbagging, literally.. ;)
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MH2
climber
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Jan 14, 2013 - 11:26pm PT
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Really liking your photo work, Mike.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 12:00am PT
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Thanks Andy! I must say, I'm really impressed with this phone! It's too cold to fiddle around with a slr on a rope right now.
You must have a couple more shots I'd like to see, no? ;)
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 15, 2013 - 12:11am PT
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Hey Big Mike, Kyle soloing with the chief and the weird clouds in the background is a keeper.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 02:22am PT
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Thanks Harry. I agree. I found the option in my HDR app to save both the images it takes, so I can do my manual edits. Sometimes I can get a much cleaner image stitching the two images and the colors are amazing because they are real and not computer generated approximations.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 10:53am PT
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Any one else taking advantage of the afl for some alpine climbing today?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 15, 2013 - 09:56pm PT
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Bruce! We missed you, but we did have an amazing day climbing on the route that you & Brian put up. What an awesome vision you had for this feature!! One of the funnest multi clips I've ever done. My secret weapon rope gun was even nice enough to stop at the hanging rap station to set up a nice uncomfortable belay so I got to deal with the weirdness above which seemed like the crux. That first pitch done as a whole 35 m rig would be a doozy. As for the temps, you were right its a little thermal trap down there- T shirt weather and glorious sunshine. Much warmer than anything I've climbed in Squam since Nov.
I agree that a bolt at the bottom to protect the belay would fit well with the character of the route. Looks like I'll be heading back up there at some point so will happily drag the drill & fix er up. We didn't get bouted but def didn't send, some challenging sequences & hidden holds on the 5.11 bits.
Again great job Bruce, here's the fruits of your labor.
My only question is where were the dbl heel hooks?? I did a few kneebars on the opening layback but never found any heel hooks! Remember I'm a pad person I'm usually all over those things!
Rad day.
Big Mike thanks for coming up & hangin out, can't wait to see your pics unless they're already posted as I've been writing this post 6 words at a time since I started work 3 hrs ago.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jan 16, 2013 - 01:24am PT
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Had a fun time romping around the boulders on Sunday with Relic Brownie RyanD and Ais. A little less roped climbing than I was originally hoping for but it was good to be back.
We hit up Crackhead, which I decided was a great place to practise my offwidth roof skills. A minor epic followed when I used a hand-fist stack to shove my feet deep into the crack and promptly got stuck. Upside down, being held in only by heel-toe cams, I was trying to regain my initial type of jam, but tired out my core to the point where I had to call for a rescue.
Brownie may have pics to go with the story.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 16, 2013 - 04:21am PT
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Haha that was funny Nathan, we'll corrupt you in the boulders yet. You have to admit those easy highballs are fun.
Bruce, deadly is an understatement. That thing is mega, 5 stars! I agree with the 1 long pitch , the hanging belay sucked & I had to do the other 1/2 of the pitch & miss out on the summit pitch lead but it was still an awesome TR. what a position.
It was funny, Josh had done the route like 10 yrs ago when Bob Ali drug him up there as a pup. He thought he remembered everything but clearly he remembered nothin! Haha so he brings me to the crappy hanging stance & sez " it's easy 5th up to a 5.10 slab. So I pull off the belay thinking I'd just TRon'ed the crux & I'd probably just go all the way to the top. All of a sudden I'm in 5.11 land straight off the belay not wanting to fall on Josh, I reached in my chalk bag but found only sand, there's a bit of water but not too bad, I take a fall at some tricky traverse moves then get to a decent rest with a few hangs. I think for a second it's over after a few easier but thoughtful moves before I get to a no hands rest in an alcove. I look up and realize it ain't over & proceed up a wicked stem box, 3 sided, fully exposed, there's a final tricky move traversing out of the stem with some hidden holds before jugs & snow! A delicate mantel onto the snowy ledge & I'm toast! Haha can't wait to go back. I highly recommend this route. There's some hollow blocks but the rock is mostly great & the position is incredible! The final pitch is stellar, a bit reachy to clip the bolt off the ledge under the roof but the movement is awesome! Delicate & so exposed! Much gratitude Bruce, maybe its been the weather this fall but i can't remember the last time I had so much fun on a route!
Some possibly useful beta: Josh led the last pitch & lowered back to the ledge after summiting. I cleaned it on TR, threaded the rope & lowered back down. We pulled the rope & with a full 70 were able to rap to the luxurious platform to change back into our shred gear. On the long rap Josh swung over to the right below the midway station & clipped a bolt with a wire on it somewhere to the right of the initial overhanging section. He just made it & with my extra 20lbs he was able to pull me right back into the platform.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
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Josh is funny. He's got the moves down pat but don't ask him how to get there!! My first time on Angel's crest was with him and we had the time honored experience of bushwhacking from the base of the north north aret to the base of angel's. "I think it's this way guys!"
I did some editing last night. Only got a few images done so far though.
Ryand leading the second half of p1 of Finestone Cowboy!
Ever wish you could zoom into one of my images?
Josh on the roof of the spire p2
I NEED a 75-200mm for this stuff!!! anyone know anyone getting rid of a cannon eos lens? hmm
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 16, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
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Sick shots Mike and Ryan!
While you guys were up in the alpine I snuck out of work and sniped an FA....
So as of right now it goes at 5.6 C1, I bet a free ascent would require a couple 5.11+ moves to get under the roof and a move or two of 12+ or even 13- to get through the roof.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 16, 2013 - 10:52pm PT
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Nice Mike!! Such killer shots man, you definitely deserve a lens upgrade!
Sid Comer, is cariboo crack the leftmost line on respiration rock?? Nice one, I like the Yula pic.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 16, 2013 - 11:03pm PT
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It sure is Ryan. Go free it!
Per-spray alert'
Kieran and I are takin drus suggestiion and are currently racking to repeat a Beckey route ithis evening in honour of his 90th birthday... Any guess' as to what were gunna send? Donations are welcome and can be deposited directly in my Paypal account, pm me for details.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 16, 2013 - 11:22pm PT
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If ur doing angels crest tonight I'll consider a donation, depending what kind of drugs ur doing of course.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 17, 2013 - 04:15am PT
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We did a free ascent of the "south" "arête" which in fact is neither south nor an arête.
The ascent was assisted by Hal Johnson and Joanne Mcleod endorsed vitamins, fried chicken with jalapeño and white cheddar dip, as well as marijuana and some accidentally ingested paint fumes...
Kieran rocked a rope harness
I sported the Cadillac of swami belts, the Yates big wall 200!
We led the route in 3 pitches to broadway ledge and 3 pitches across broadway, which was the crux for sure.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 04:34am PT
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Hahahaha!! Awesome!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 17, 2013 - 10:24am PT
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Worthy of the Piolet D'Or for sure.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 17, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
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Hahaha Nice boys! Does Kierans harness have leg loops?? How was broadway?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 17, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
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Getting across broadway was hellaa gnar, ice lower outs and dynos.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 17, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
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That's so funny, good route choice too. That things super fun. You guys didn't consider those easy raps into the gulley, or would that mess with the fun scale too much?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 17, 2013 - 12:38pm PT
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^HA!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 17, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
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Great climb, guys! Unca Fred would love it!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 17, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
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Too bad that fixed rope u guys put up there on broadway in the summer got chopped again.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 17, 2013 - 03:49pm PT
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Ya too bad some one chopped my fixed chain.eh..
brownie has an.awesome video of him sykin up to onsight the crux of the route.while simul climbing and videograhing at the same time. sure hope he posts it.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 06:29pm PT
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I think he's a bit busy at the moment...
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 17, 2013 - 07:24pm PT
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Dont tire him out too much. we got to practice our night climbing some more this evening to hone our skills.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 17, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
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Already all booked up this wwekend.
Any one up for half priced appies this evening at the shady tree?? Then maybe a romp up the SB connection or some head lamp cragging?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
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Looks nice this weekend. We'll probably get out both days Anders.
Shoot me a message
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 17, 2013 - 07:49pm PT
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Dome it and they will come.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 17, 2013 - 08:27pm PT
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Sorry to disappoint boys, but South Arete is a Baldwin/Mutch route, 1962. Glad that you enjoyed it. As MH knows, Uncle Fred made the 2nd ascent, and aided up beside a section which Jim and I had done free. He called his 20 foot aid variation "Math Crack", and reported it in either the AAJ, or the CAJ, or maybe both. This was somewhat backwards, as people usually tried to free aid climbs, rather than using aid on free climbs.
See the new Bourdon book P166, attached, or the old Ourom book, not attached!
And it was only 5.4, not 5.9!!!
:) H.
Nice job on Finestone Cowboy. Lookey scarey.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 08:44pm PT
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Dome it and they will come.
Hahahahaha.. Jim! They already do come! ;) we don't need more.. ;)
Here's a couple more pics from today.
What route is Kyle on?
I just saw an article claiming climbing in Canada, in winter is limited to plastic and Ice. I call bullish!t!!
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Jan 17, 2013 - 09:09pm PT
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how did Fred do the second ascent(using the direct variation) in 1959 if the first ascent was done in 1962?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 17, 2013 - 09:26pm PT
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Sorry Kieran, looks like u guys gotta do tantalus wall before midnight if u want to appease Fred :-) or Angels crest.
Cool shots Mike, is that Movin on over? Or catch me quick?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 09:37pm PT
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Nope. Left of those.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 17, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
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how did Fred do the second ascent(using the direct variation) in 1959 if the first ascent was done in 1962?
Fred did a different route from Mutch/Baldwin. Just which of the several cracks Fred did is still uncertain, I believe.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 17, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
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1959 is a typo by Marc B. Correct date is 1966.
Uncle Fred reported "Math Crack" in the 1967 AAJ, page 366. Info courtesy of MH.
On a positive note,you guys likely did the "Math Crack" variation anyhow, as it is slightly more direct. If so, you did a Beckey route.
Glenn. What is uncertain is how UF et al reached the base of Squamish Buttress, above Broadway in 1959, but it was definitely not via S Arete. In the 1967 AAJ he acknowledges that Math Crack was a variation of an existing route.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 17, 2013 - 10:42pm PT
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Hey cool history boys, Hamie- why didn't u guys go direct up that sweet crack? Especially if it was only 5.4 :-) I think S arête is the most under rated climb on the apron. Much more interesting climbing than Calculus at the same difficulty, I guess the 8' of OW keeps the crowds at bay.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 17, 2013 - 10:42pm PT
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Glenn. What is uncertain is how UF et al reached the base of Squamish Buttress, above Broadway in 1959, but it was definitely not via S Arete. In the 1967 AAJ he acknowledges that Math Crack was a variation of an existing route.
Agreed. But he climbed something....
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 17, 2013 - 11:15pm PT
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MIKE, THAT PIC OF KYLE IS ON THAT FACE CLIMB LEFT OF BURGERS N FRIES AND I HAVE CAPS LOCKKKKKKKKKEDDDDDD
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 17, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
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Looks right of B+F to me
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 17, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
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Oh ya foot in da GRAVY!
Edit - nope that's left
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 17, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
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DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY HOT CHERRY BENDOVER PICTURES THEY WOULD LIKE TO SHARE? MY SPANK BANK IS GETTING OLD AND TIRED
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 17, 2013 - 11:21pm PT
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WELL KID COMER, IT DEPENDS ON YOUR PERSPECTIVE DOESN'T IT? KIERAN'S LEFT OR SUPERTOPO CREEPERS RIGHT I GUESS........
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 17, 2013 - 11:25pm PT
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Peaches and Cream is the only route worth talking about on that crag.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 17, 2013 - 11:38pm PT
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Hey Hot Cherry Bendover is for sale if any u OG's got an extra 3/4 mil layin around? It even comes with a house!
I don't think that house has been on the market recently. Are you getting it confused with the red house at the end of Plateau Dr. with a 20m cliff in the backyard?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 11:45pm PT
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Comer is right. Right of burgers.
So the direct roof exit to south aret is "math crack"?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 17, 2013 - 11:46pm PT
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I'm not sure Relic, just what a friend told me. Are there climbs in that backyard on plateau?? Would be so cool to own a cliff!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
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Shotgun first 10+ fa on Ryan's private crag!! ;)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 17, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
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Ha! I wish, I'll set u a 6 move FA in my garage if u want tho!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 17, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
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Nah no climbs on that red house's cliff. The owners are super lite.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 18, 2013 - 12:51am PT
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Well I might as well flog this old nag some more. Here is a pic taken in 1962, with the route marked, also in 1962. The words were added recently to help Marc B with his new guide.
Ryan, we didn't do the "sweet crack direct' as the crack on the right was easier. Max 5.4! The bolt referred to by MH was placed later, we used a bong at the top of that section. UF probably thought initially that he had made a FA because he did not see any pin scars. We only placed 4 pins in total, with 2 of those for belays. and 2 for pro including the bong. A single pin was deemed enough for a belay, or for a rappel. [Today some climbers spend more time setting up a station than they spend on the pitch! You need a PhD in mechanical engineering.] Of course we slung lotsa trunks, branches, roots and bushes instead.
When we reached Broadway there was a monster wind blowing [a Squamish wind]. We settled down on what is now called Memorial Ledge for a couple of hours, til it died down. We may have been the first people to visit that spot. Years later I remembered the ledge and the boulder, which coupled with the fact that Jim and I had spent some time there, all made it the obvious place for his plaque. Some time in the afternoon, when we were on Squamish Buttress we made vocal contact with Glenn and his brother Bob. They had just made the 2nd or 3rd ascent of Diedre.
8 or more years ago my friend Aaron Kristiansen [late of Castlegar, now of Squish] and a partner spent a few days cleaning SA, also thinking it was a Beckey route. He was really pissed to hear he had cleaned one of mine [and Jim's] by mistake! Thanks again, Aaron.
It's amazing what you can learn when you turn over a rock......
Happy Birthday to Fred!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
EDIT Uploading this photo was chronically slow tonight. I almost gave up , but didn't want to disappoint everyone. Ha Ha.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 18, 2013 - 01:33am PT
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Math Crack is merely a derivative.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2013 - 01:44am PT
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Clearly Math crack is not = to Calculus
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 18, 2013 - 01:49am PT
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First you have to define how it relates to Vector.
Vector is well right of Math Crack, no confusion there.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2013 - 01:52am PT
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Umm not getting it? ;) puns......
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 18, 2013 - 02:37am PT
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Hamie, your stories/lessons kick ass here man. Very cool to get them from the source, I really liked the words about you & Jim Baldwin on Memorial ledge for the first time.
Pretty awesome to have so much climbing going on & awesome histories on all these routes we get to climb- oh & in January to boot! This thread has got a second wind for sure! Been really cool to meet a bunch of super squampians & get out on the rock these days.
Edit- holy moly Hamie! When was that photo taken? Look at how many trees are in st vitus!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2013 - 03:48am PT
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1959 is a typo by Marc B. Correct date is 1966.
Uncle Fred reported "Math Crack" in the 1967 AAJ, page 366. Info courtesy of MH.
On a positive note,you guys likely did the "Math Crack" variation anyhow, as it is slightly more direct. If so, you did a Beckey route.
Actually, it looks like Mclane's had it wrong for almost 30 years. Did no one ever notice this? Or did he just not care to change it??
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 18, 2013 - 10:49am PT
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Harry- It's on Blackcomb mtn near the top of showcase t-bar.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 18, 2013 - 12:37pm PT
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McLane has had other things wrong for nearly 30 years, too. They've been pointed out, but some things never change.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Jan 18, 2013 - 12:49pm PT
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despite the finicky details and historical errors it was a great outing and a stellar route..
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MH2
climber
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Jan 18, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
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Wow! The good old days are here again.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 18, 2013 - 02:16pm PT
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That video belongs in the partners on meth thread.
We were havin waaay more fun then anyone else on the monolith that evening.
Regardless of whos ass got up there first we were there to honour uncle fred, who is apparently climbing rocks down in socal as we nit pickin and sissy fitten over a silly climb to no where
.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 18, 2013 - 03:14pm PT
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MH, I'm up for the South South. Don't know if my knees are good enough for the descent from N, but could try. South Gully probably too hard for me these days. Give a call.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 18, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
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Hehe that video is awesome
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2013 - 09:54pm PT
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Another beautiful winter day... Still no confirmation on the burgers slab route..
Chose a different locale today.. Any guesses??
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 18, 2013 - 09:58pm PT
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Mike, I woke up angry today because I had a dream you called my house to find a sledding partner and my mom didn't wake me up.
Looks two rats and a titmouse to me..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2013 - 10:15pm PT
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Hahaha too funny. Soon bud. I'm almost there.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2013 - 10:47pm PT
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Luke got it! Kieran and I did cowm direct.
What's the next pic of Kieran?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 18, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Jan 18, 2013 - 11:20pm PT
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Looking for one of you poseurs to be belay "slave" for
My on sight flash of Zombie Roof - tomorrow in the smoke Bluffs
PM me
No Americans !
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
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Hahahaha ya right!! I'm down ;)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 19, 2013 - 12:05am PT
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Bmacd! Living on the edge!
I'd like to think & hope that bottom one is ride da bullet because that climb is radical! We're u guys up there today? That Pan of Radikyle at the belay is rad too!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 19, 2013 - 12:17am PT
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This is gonna be gnar.
im.gonna.charge.admission.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Jan 19, 2013 - 12:31am PT
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i'm gonna eat popcorn and take bets..
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 19, 2013 - 12:41am PT
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25 bucks and a pack of smokes that he runs.out.of gas bdfore the fixed tat where the angle kicks back.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2013 - 12:45am PT
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Ya ride the bullet! Kieran and Kyle did it. It was so sick up there..
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Jan 19, 2013 - 12:56am PT
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Dats Suicide Anderson
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2013 - 01:12am PT
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Darryl's back! ;)
For those who liked the Finestone Cowboy pics, I have a treat, LOTS MORE!
;)
Josh getting things started on p1
Just another beautiful day on the glacier... Oh look honey! Climbers!!
Josh ran out of draws halfway up the first pitch. Good thing there is an anchor there!
Josh bringing up Ryand
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
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Anders style bump
More soon
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2013 - 02:58pm PT
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Haha Bruce! That thing is thin up top eh? It's like a
Huge fin or something!
Anders, Sunday is my birthday and I will be climbing with Sandra so i suspect it will be a mellow cragging day.. We are going today? Come Join!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2013 - 09:13pm PT
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Anders you deleter!!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2013 - 11:40pm PT
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Yup. Lots of ice falling the past couple days also and getting warmer tomorrow, with still more ice to come..
Just bugging you about the post of course.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 19, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
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Well this just totally sucks. As soon as I saw the picture, I was ready to hit the reply button and say "Cream of White Mice."
But since I'm a day late, I guess I don't win any prize.
We're stuck in a total inversion down here. No rain, but the fog hasn't lifted for the last five days, and the temp hasn't gone more than a couple of degrees either side of freezing. Inversions aren't quite as bad here as they are in Vancouver, but it still sucks. So I'm glad to see that Squamish is in the clear and you guys are taking advantage of it.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Jan 20, 2013 - 12:33am PT
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Major ice fall hazards today, bk took a whopper ice block to the head again fortunately he was still able to put the rope up for the tr. On Yorkshire Gripper
I think he's posting from the hospital. Hang in there buddy.
South gully is definitely out of condition Anderson.....
I am presently bivied on Penny Lane, just phoned in a pizza order
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 20, 2013 - 12:50am PT
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Where were you guys ice climbing? Inquiring minds want to know. Pics?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 20, 2013 - 02:49am PT
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Boulders tommorow. C'mon down. Unless your thetans are acting up. If so, you are excused.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2013 - 03:37am PT
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It was probably the warmest it's been so far this year today. Comfortable sweater weather for a bit. I met up with my rope guns at Bughouse Heights and promptly took down two 10b slabs, followed shortly buy another 10c and some photos. Pretty sweet day I'd say..
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 20, 2013 - 10:38am PT
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First hand investigation of Squamish friction capacity scheduled for today. Gotta look for that mysterious gravity shift evident in Mike's Showcase photos.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
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It's there Dru! go get it!
If you get bored, drop by the bluffs. :)
Kyle called me up yesterday and asked me to bring my #5 camalot so he could lead Skulduggery. I was happy to oblige..
He was a little worried until this point...
Hope to see some people out at the Bluffs today!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 20, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
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The South South Gully expedition didn't go. Mysterious illnesses and headaches... It will be rescheduled.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2013 - 01:08pm PT
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Probably for the best. Too much ice falling at the moment!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 20, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
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Cool photos, thanks Mike- good thing skulduggery isn't as bad as it looks!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
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Yup. If it were it would be run out as hell!! Pink cliff is a go!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 20, 2013 - 11:24pm PT
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Everybody and their dog and their baby was at the Bluffs today.
Pretty soon one of those crag dogs is gonna go all dingo on a baby and there will be a made-for-TV weeper a few years later.
I enjoyed the sunshine and the good sending temps but I enjoyed even more hearing the huge cannonades of ice falling into the gullies on the Chief and echoing and re-echoing across Valleycliffe.
Still not sure but what the mountains might have been a viable option, conditions sound like they were highly variable depending where and how far above treeline you were.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 20, 2013 - 11:33pm PT
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Good thing Anders and Tricouni didnt't go gully climbing today. It was thunderously loud while we were in the north wall boulders. All sorts of falling death chunk sounds eminating from the chief shaking off it's debris.
Beauty day in there.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2013 - 01:00am PT
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The ice was coming down today for sure! Loud rumbles did indeed eminate from the chief's walls and the last one around 5:30 or so was quite significant!!
Sunset was pretty sweet..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2013 - 02:19am PT
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Ok so who's truck is this! ;)
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 22, 2013 - 11:48am PT
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Where the heck did you find that???
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
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Just across the road from hot cherry bend over! In the bluffs.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 22, 2013 - 02:30pm PT
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Looks inviting Bruce, nice pics. If your over 50 you should be able to display a handicapped sticker on your sled to avoid the wrath of Khan. Pleasure to meet you the other day.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jan 22, 2013 - 07:33pm PT
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DK and BK in it to win it!
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Jan 22, 2013 - 08:21pm PT
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Nice climb you guys !
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 23, 2013 - 12:29am PT
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Perhaps all snowmobiles should display a "disabled" sticker.
Be careful what you say Anders, I've got some friends who don't take kindly to talk like that...
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Jan 23, 2013 - 01:42am PT
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Hey , I know that truck. Years back I put up a “stellar” 11+ crack and face climb near that truck, another one of my "Nebulous "routes. I gave the honor of naming my fabulous creation to my buddy Ian. He found a golf range ball and old LP record in that tow truck.
He named the route “ Range Ball Record Wrecker”. ...... Never let your friends name your routes!
Some potential for a couple more routes there and a rescrub of RBWR would be great. Bring a chain saw and cut the nasty alder in front of the crag.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 23, 2013 - 07:17pm PT
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Hey BK. Looks like a fun route, although 9 pitches is a bit excessive. That's enough for 3 ice climbs.
With a sled you could access Blue Angel. We always dreamed about getting in there.
Last week Brad and I went to Enterprise, a few kms north of Slocan City.
WARNING!!!!!!!!!!!!WARNING!!!!!!!!!!!!
The following post contains 'finicky details' and other 'minutiae'. Those averse to either/both should now turn their attention elsewhere.
Ice climbing is far from my favourite activity, and most years I manage to avoid it. Last week my main climbing partner Brad phoned to tell me that Enterprise was "in", and we were going the next day. Brad is 6'4", 155 and a local bouncer who does not understand the word "No".
The approach was brutal, the worst winter approach ever. Criss-crossed windfall followed by a boulder field, both covered in about two feet of loose snow. Oh, and steep too. Contrary to reports, the ice was brittle and the top third was not formed enough to take screws, so we resorted to using a top-rope. How lame is that? Brad did three laps, while one was more than enough for me. There were mushrooms and cauliflowers aplenty, a veritable vegan's feast, with multiple chandeliers providing the ambience. I have always contended that chandeliers should be called celery, to maintain the theme!
Please note that I am wearing a thick sweater and a puffy jacket under my parka, [I have done this activity before], and am not quite as fat as I appear--but close.
Photo by Brad. Sorry, no bad-ass video.
Carry on.
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MH2
climber
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Jan 23, 2013 - 08:56pm PT
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Tasteful colour ensemble and eloquent smile.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 23, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
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Non-black pants are back in style again so that's worth something.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 24, 2013 - 03:20am PT
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Bruce that looks awesome!
I don't know why you guys mess around on those little pebbles when there's dragons like this to slay.
To answer your question I'd love to slay a dragon like that but have no idea how the hell those ice tool things work! Looks like fun though. And I think you're right, you have no idea why we mess around on those pebbles -but I'd love to show you sometime.
This kind of explains why:
The moves! You can do moves on perfect rock in the boulders that you never could or would dream of doing when your on the rope. You are climbing cruxes all day! This can be useful when you do run across those impossible feeling moves on a rope. & For those of you that think bouldering is not serious, immediately after the above photo was taken Relic realized his safety was at immediate risk- he had not eaten anything for close to 2 hrs. He did the right thing & from his strenuous half mantel position above the pads he stated to us in a low moan "I'm hungry". As his loyal spotters we knew the situation was dire so we stacked up all 9 crashpads & let him know it was safe to drop the 6 feet to the ground. As soon as he hit the deck I administered a gluten free granola bar and we all crossed our fingers, begging him not to die. With each bite his symptoms started to improve luckily & the rest of the group realized how close a call that had been.
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MH2
climber
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Jan 24, 2013 - 10:14am PT
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Dire! He'll be harder for it, though.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jan 24, 2013 - 10:51am PT
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Not this Nate. And that last problem looks like fun, what is it?
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 24, 2013 - 10:55am PT
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I'm just curious, do you guys have a battery powered toaster oven to un-freeze your fingers on that frigid rock. It's the one thing that this body can't handle anymore,it's a recipe for finger injury, at least for this old fart.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 24, 2013 - 11:35am PT
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Arguing about bouldering vs alpinism is so last century. In fact, even in the last century some of us had moved to the next level -- a combination of bouldering and alpinism in which the true summit can only be attained by bouldering.
You want proof? Look at this shot of Don Serl, taken just after he surmounted the final boulder...
That last move had to be at least V15+, and that was at a time when the so-called best boulderers in the world were struggling to attain V11
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 24, 2013 - 12:23pm PT
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Aha Bruce, I see now where you completed your training for finestone cowboy! That sequence is hilarious, what/where is that peak?
Sorry to wreck your fantasy Ghost but I don't think anyone is arguing, good job on v16 tho!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 24, 2013 - 02:55pm PT
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Lindsay resent his signature pitch so he seems to be the flag bearer for the rest of us
Bruce, although Lindsay is still climbing impressively hard he does not hold a candle to you, judging by all things you've been doing in the last year. Where do you get so much free time, did you win a lottery or something? Any pics from your climb on Temple crag with Bruce Mac.
This peak is exactly 6.2 km from Chablis spire.Any guesses?
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Jan 24, 2013 - 03:56pm PT
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I know this probably warrants it's own thread, but in the interest of keeping it BC based, I'm hiding it in here.
This was visited briefly last fall, but it seems to be coming to fruition this spring.
Through communication between the Climber's Access Society of BC (CASBC) and MEC, there has been a arrangement made for a one time (this may eventually become a once-a-year program) purchase of fixed gear for equipping of new routes.
As a current member of the CASBC (only $10 per year!), you will be elegible to purchase hardware such as bolts, hangers, quicklinks, steel bieners and stations at approximately 25% less than MEC retail pricing.
This opportunity comes with a few restrictions which allow MEC to offer this to us:
1. This will be, for now, a one time purchace. Dig the change out of your couch cushons and purchase everything you can, this may not happen again.
2. To keep the price down, our entire order will be submitted and filled by MEC as ONE order. This keeps their labour costs and your shipping costs down. It will all go to either Peter Winter's or my house in Squamish to be divided up into individual orders for pickup or shipping.
3. Everything must be paid for in advance. We may set up a separate CASBC account to handle these funds. Perer and I are discussing this.
4. If you do take advantage of this generous offer, send a big thanks to MEC and the CASBC for doing the legwork to make it possible. Join up, get involved.
Please send me a list of what you'd be interested in purchasing, and the quantities. I will compile a master order, and reply to everyone with when their cash will be due to be included on the order. Questions? You can send me a PM here or email me at krisdwild (at) gmail.com (replace (at) with @). Please send your order lists directly to my email so I can keep better track of them. Be sure to include your contact information In case I have to reach you.
Kris Wild
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 24, 2013 - 04:15pm PT
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What controls will there be on the program, to ensure that these anchors (at least) are used appropriately?
From what I've heard, safety will be the chief concern. Anyone who wants to be a part of this program will have to sign a declaration that the equipment will be used only on safe routes, with a maximum runout of no more than 1.5 meters. That declaration must be signed in blood, and in front of three witnesses, at least one of whom must be either a police officer or a minister of religion.
There will be a minumum order of 200 bolts per person, but free power drills will be provided by CASBC to all participants.
Bruce Kay and I have our eyes on a bunch of lines on the Apron. Our plan also includes a bolt ladder up to Broadway. We'll then install a bunch of stations all along the top of the Apron and then rap bolt dozens of diretissimas. And we've already got permission to retrobolt Question of Balance!
There. Do you feel better now?
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Jan 24, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
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It's not free gear handed out like candy by the CASBC Anders. It's just quality equipment at a bit of a discount. It's no different than buying a jacket that's on sale. "Wait a minite there, that jacket was sold for hiking! You can't walk your dog with it!"
It's more of a shout out (tip of the hat) to those willing to develope new routes. Thanks for what you do, now here's a bit of a break on the price of good bolts and such.
K
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 24, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
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hardly warrants the tenor of ghost's post.
Tenor? Who you calling a tenor? I'm a baritone.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Jan 24, 2013 - 05:20pm PT
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The CASBC is not supplying anything to anybody. They merely brokered an arrangement that will allow folks who already buy this stuff to now buy it at a slightly better price.
It's not like MEC has any rules or certifications required to purchase bolts. If you don't want to save a few bucks on fixed hardware this year then don't participate. Personally, I'm going to scrape together enough cash to try and stock up for the next few years, just in case this opportunity isin't put forward again.
(Written with no disrespect or maliciousness intended)
Kris
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 24, 2013 - 05:33pm PT
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Kidding aside, I think it's a great idea. The new-route community is relatively small, and putting up new climbs is not cheap.
You might ask if MEC is willing to include a few other new-routing essentials in the reduced-price deal: static ropes, ascenders, wire brushes, that sort of thing. That would make sense, and be a big help.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Jan 24, 2013 - 06:48pm PT
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Those suggestions of other product to include are duely noted for the next time around, if there is one. For this year we are limited to bolts, hangers, anchor setups, drill bits and steel gym bieners for sport anchor lower-offs.
(I can't imagine the day when MEC sells wire brushes and crowbars!)
K
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 24, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
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I can't imagine the day when MEC sells wire brushes and crowbars!
I had originally included crowbars in my list of suggested items, but took it out in fear that Anders might die of an apoplectic seizure trying to reply.
[Disclaimer: I admit it. Not only have I used crowbars in the creation of new rock climbs, I loved it. My favorite crowbar belongs to a friend. It's a four-footer, that weighs a ton. But man, the things we've pried loose!]
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 24, 2013 - 10:06pm PT
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Dear NateDogOG,
The last picture of me suffering from hungrrr is Tyler's Dihedral, a 5 star problem in the North Walls. If you are of shorter stature, you must do a double handed dyno to that shelf I am grabbing. It is sports action supreme to watch little ones on it.
RyanD very elequently described my near death by hunger experience but forgot to mention the other reason I decided to abort mission mid mantle at the top...
My hand got cold!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 24, 2013 - 11:38pm PT
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Having been down there, wouldn't you agree that Wa pass is a really fantastic family alpine destination? We should go try it out this coming summer man!
Let me know when you're planning to head south.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 25, 2013 - 12:42am PT
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Two for two Bruce, Cutthroat peak, that pic is from 1983 on the west ridge route. Went back with my first wife in 1992 and did a route on the south face and I assured her the descent down the west ridge was casual. Well the intervening 9 years had been filled up with a lot of peaks and a lot of smoke and my recollection of the difficulty of the descent was dodgy at best. She had not done any alpine rock climbing and it was quite scary for her on the descent then when we reached the first rappel it went from 25c and sunny to thunderstorm,cold, wind and snow, full on epic. We did have our little Kway jackets but that was about it. Needless to say I was not a very popular guy for the rest of the trip.
It definitely is a spectacular area with that highway giving so much easy access to so many amazing peaks. Funny enough I have done more alpine along that highway than I have up around your area Bruce.
Did you ever check out the steep 200` cliff below the Liberty Bell lookout. In 1989 we got kicked off when I was rappelling it.I did see some bolts and lots of potential, after that I heard they banned climbing on it but it looked spectacular. I will see if I can find a video clip of it.
I`d love to head down this summer with Ghost as our liason officer as it is his country now. I`ve never done the ridge on Mt Triumph.
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MH2
climber
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Jan 25, 2013 - 12:14pm PT
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I think Bryan Burdo bolted a route on that crag under the memorial to the North Cascades highway. Then the route was removed by the USFS.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 25, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
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Good burgers and Pizza down at that little town too.
We often go to Winthrop (that little town) for dinner during or after trips to Washington Pass. Funny little place, with some psuedo-Wild West tourist trappings. On one of those dinner excursions we thought we'd maybe somehow been transported to another dimension, because parked in front of the restaurant we were headed for were four shiny new Ferarris and a Di Tomaso Pantera.
That is not a sight you see every day in tiny little towns in Eastern Washington.
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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Jan 25, 2013 - 02:56pm PT
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more to come..
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 25, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
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I'm gonna punch the next book that lies to my face. Yeah, show it who's boss.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 04:21pm PT
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Silly propaganda! Like this I found while looking for Dave and Tamis film
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Jan 25, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
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that video lacks continuity, she was clearly roped in during her climb so where is the 2nd when she is soaking in the view??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 05:30pm PT
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Funny.. I wondered the same thing!! ;)
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 25, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
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Isn't the Rock of Gibraltar limestone?
Or maybe I'm thinking of the one Billy Davidson climbed in the Rockies.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 25, 2013 - 11:43pm PT
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I'm gonna punch the next book that lies to my face. Yeah, show it who's boss.
Yeah, Luke, I have no idea where that nonsense started, but you should definitely kick sh#t out of any book that reprints it.
Here's a shot of the biggest chunk of granite I've personally ever seen. Almost exactly 7,000 ft from base to summit. And it was surrounded by thousands -- yes, literally thousands -- of other lumps bigger than the Squamish Chief. And I know there are plenty of even bigger granite lumps that I haven't seen. But try telling that to your local Chamber of Commerce.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Jan 26, 2013 - 12:07am PT
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Anybody know who the climber chiqua is in the clip ?
It's Amy Chernoff. I think she still lives in town, although I havn't seen her around in a few years.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 26, 2013 - 12:34am PT
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whoa - are you saying that spur in the middle is 7000 feet? Thats a big route! Anybody climbed it? Thats in the weasel valley isn't it?
Yes, it's Mt. Odin. Base is about 200 feet above sea level, and summit is over 7K. The smaller thing on the left is about 4,500. (Which, for the mathematically challenged Californians who occasionally visit this thread, is about one-and-a-half-times the height of El Cap.)
Odin is pretty much the easiest-to-get-to peak on Baffin Island, and there are some moderate routes to the summit, but it is so f*#king off-the-charts huge that most people just pretend they haven't seen it and roll on up the valley to things that humans can understand.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Jan 26, 2013 - 02:52am PT
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Looks like I have to seriously ramp up my training schedule....
Problem is Lance Armstrongs doctor has not been returning my phone calls
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 26, 2013 - 03:33am PT
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MH2 now that you are retired krank meister are you heading down south to warmer climes like Rolf?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 26, 2013 - 10:35am PT
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MH2
climber
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Jan 26, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
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MH2 now that you are retired krank meister are you heading down south to warmer climes like Rolf?
Sure! Me 'n' a group are gonna invade the man's Palm Springs peace 'n' quiet. Or at least road trip to the Richmond Oval.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
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Not drywall! At least it's hanging and not taping!!!
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MH2
climber
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Jan 26, 2013 - 07:33pm PT
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Just try to end up in the right State, Bruce.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 27, 2013 - 12:15am PT
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Hey RyanD
I enjoyed the bouldering promo which you posted a couple of days ago. Likely it fell mostly on deaf ears! In the interest of full disclosure, I should state that a couple of years ago, that's in 2011, waaaay baaaack in the Good Old Days, I spent a few weeks hanging out with some Pad People. They were interested to learn about the Vermin Minus Scale, which was new to them. That's the scale that goes from V0 down to V Minus10. This new scale allows for entry-level problems, for those unable/unwilling to heel-hook at shoulder height or higher. Very handy!
In return I learned several important lessons from them:
.....According to the North Face Climbing Team, [or one similar?] the bouldering in Tuzgle is supposedly the best so far discovered in South America. Hmmmmmm. There are several videos of Tuzgle on the web, but none of us, of course. Check 'em out
.....Bouldering pads make excellent wind-breaks, esp if it is your turn to cook supper, outside of course, you are at 4,000+ metres, it is the middle of winter, there is a minor hurricane blowing, and the wind-chill factor is around -200C.
.....Pad People are people too!
.....You can't teach an old dog new tricks. Actually I did know that one before.
So here's a few pix:
This is a mini Trigger Finger waiting to happen.
The sign is supposed to read "No Climbing. May fall [over]". That refers to the rock, not to you!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 27, 2013 - 11:31am PT
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Cool pics Ham-wich!
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Jan 27, 2013 - 01:08pm PT
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"The Dream", a Peder Ourom mega classic three pitch ice route. Looks like we've all been snoozing! That dosn't come in often and it came and went. The Dream is probably the finest ice route that ever forms around here.
Love your story about The Dream Bruce. I hadn't heard it in it's entirety. I've been told we may have inadvertently done the second ascent of it about four winters ago. We were scooped by another faster party approaching A Scottish Tale. In stead of waiting around for them to go up and down, since it's such a shooting gallery gully, we thrashed over to the right to kill some time playing on a little ice streak we'd seen over there on the approach.
After scratching our way up the first pitch to a surprise bolt anchor, we realized it may actually go higher than it originally appeared. The ice was thin and neither of us had climbed in a couple of seasons, so we managed to scare ourselves a bit silly scratching up a corner and chimney with ice not even thich enough to sink a stubby screw into. Luckily we'd brought a few cams and three pins, so each time we were just about to tuck tail and run, we'd get in something decent and talk our selves into checking out the next few metres.
We were both pleasntly surprised to discover what we had actually climbed when we got back down and looked in the guidebook. Later we were told that it may not have seen an ascent since it's FA eight or nine years previous. It rarely comes in, and when it does it's pretty short lived. I'd highly reccommend it if you ever see it form up again.
K
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
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Hamie, awesome!
I enjoyed the bouldering promo which you posted a couple of days ago. Likely it fell mostly on deaf ears!
This isn't true. Nothing here falls on deaf ears. I thoroughly enjoy each and every contribution to this thread. It keeps me coming back and stoked on contributing!!
So thank you to everyone here!!
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MH2
climber
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Jan 27, 2013 - 01:51pm PT
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Good stories Bruce and Kris.
Hamie,
Did you climb this one? I don't see any no climbing sign.
Or is it the same rock from another side?
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Jan 27, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
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the kid and I went lookin in our backyard for some tasty lines and found this finger crack, possibly a project for the next generation.
felt like v15 right off the ground..
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 27, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
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Hamie, thanks! Looks like a killer bouldering trip you guys had BITD, looks like a pretty wild remote place, amazing rocks too! How did you find the change of pace on a pebble trip compared to an expedition style or cragging/wall type climbing trip?
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Danny G
climber
Squamish, BC
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Jan 27, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
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Can anyone recommend some short aid climbs (1-3 pitches) to practice nailing on?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 27, 2013 - 02:48pm PT
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Re: practice nailing
Dannys seem hasn't had an FA yet, judging by the name it probably takes lots of blades.
go find it and report back
EDIT!
On a slightly more more serious note. There are not really any routes that fit your description. There is not really such thing as practice nailing, but when you must nail things are probably starting to get serious but you should be practicing "nail as little as possible" ethics.
The five easiest walls in Squamish go completely clean.
Routes on the pan wall (son of pan and pan granitic frogman) should provide some stout nailing. But a long ways from what I'd call practise.
Edge of pan has gone free so no nailing please.
Lost at sea fits your description fairly well, 3 pitches (off the dance platform) with some nailing on the 2nd and third pitches.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 27, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
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Heard some creepy news. Six skulls were found in the Grand Wall forest by the stone carving yesterday, kids' skulls. I don't see it in the news yet...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
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Don't troll dude. For real?
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Jan 27, 2013 - 05:01pm PT
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Ah, sheeeit. I thought those had all been taken home as souveniers.
A few years ago we found six or seven very real looking styrofoam skulls hidden in a hole between some boulders. It seems like the zombie / vampire flick that had been filmed there the previous week had left some behind. Probably stuffed down there inbetween takes.
They also left a shocking amount of synthetic batting (stuffing) behind that was used to up the amount of "snow" on the ground. Unfortunately it either blended in too well with the existing slush, or they were just lazy with their cleanup, because we could have filled a garbage bag with the scraps. The local squirrels got the best of that deal.
The skulls looked so good that we decorated several boulder top-outs and hollow snags with them for others to enjoy.
K
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 27, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
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Not trolling. A friend of a friend found them on a dog walk through there. Maybe it will be on the news today. Mountain FM won't report anyhing like that. Might scare the tourons.
One skull was fresher than the others...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 27, 2013 - 05:40pm PT
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Crazy!! I'm sure there's an explanation of sorts??
I remember a decorative skull of sorts on top of a boulder problem called "the boat" just north of the carving a few years back.
Really creepy sh#t if this is the real deal. It's a pretty busy spot so I'm sure it wouldn't take long for someone to notice. Your friends probably didn't miss the person(s) who left them by much.
Unless of course this is BS?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 27, 2013 - 06:17pm PT
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I hope its fake or something like that. I'm just passing along a text my friend sent me this morning.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 27, 2013 - 09:06pm PT
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Get BruceMcD maybe it's a new species of Homo floriensis endemic to certain caves below the north walls
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Danny G
climber
Squamish, BC
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Jan 27, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
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Thanks thekid. Pan Wall is a little over my head at the moment. Lost at Sea would be great to combine with an aid route on the Grand Wall. Has it still not seen a 2nd ascent?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 27, 2013 - 09:41pm PT
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The first pitch has seen a second ascent by yours truly. But as far as i know the rest has not.
the three bears are still plannin on hitting it up as soon as we finish zorros.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Jan 27, 2013 - 11:30pm PT
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Yeah, Lost At Sea is totally a practice nailing route. Nice one Luke.
Kieran, did you finish your aid route yet?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 27, 2013 - 11:44pm PT
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RyanD. Our trip was only 2 years ago. I don't think there were bouldering mats BITD. It wasn't all darkside--we did some roped climbing too.:)
MH2. Yes, same rock, opp side. Climbing that would more likely result in boulder crushes climber, instead of the other way around! Interesting that it is caused by the wind, but obvious now that you pointed it out. The wind blows like crazy at night, and the bigger, heavier pieces of gravel etc would erode the base, while the lighter stuff would barely effect the higher sections. You sometimes see the same thing with small sea stacks, which are eroded by sand and waves.
BM. By 'deaf ears' I meant that RyanD was unlikely to make any converts among the OGs who visit this thread. You know who you are!!!:) :) :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2013 - 12:03am PT
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Tami it would be perfect! Phil could hang out the base! ;) would make a great story too ;) 2 minute approaches.... Perfect!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 28, 2013 - 12:44am PT
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Big Mike sounds like a convert! Hmm, I think I have photog evidence.
Big Mike and Little Tami bouldering together, that would fun times!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 28, 2013 - 12:45am PT
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There should be a special 'G' scale for gymnasts:
G0=V2
G1=V5
G2=V8 etc.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Jan 28, 2013 - 01:04am PT
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MH2 now that you are retired krank meister are you heading down south to warmer climes like Rolf?
Another warm day at JT.
Relic, that photo has to be at the Buttermilks. V4 traverse, forgot the name ? When we were there some attituude filled locals climbed it, and grunted over expressively, and too loud on ever move. I figured I should have my own macho signature grunts, so at ever move I yelled “COCK” at the top of my voice.
I think the dudes would have kicked the sh#t out of me except that I was too old and climbing with three really cute young gals.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2013 - 02:07am PT
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That's ironman traverse! It's hard. VBigMikecantdoit that's for sure! ;) more training...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 28, 2013 - 03:48am PT
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Big Mike, when you guys were join to Bishop all i wanted was to see a pic of you on that thing! I thought it would be the craziest buttdragger for you but it's actually not bad by the looks of that shot. Thanks Relic. Rolfr is right tho, there's not 10 routes in NA that see the grunting & tantrums that ironman does. Best route in the milks if u ask me is to walk up behind ironman & climb the crack up to the huecos up to the ridge to the final flake all the way to the summit of the mini mountain that overlooks the peabodies, it's like a little 4 pitch scramble-classic!
Tami, if you can scratch your ear with your toe you would probably have a good time bouldering :-) just need to find the problems that are fun for you! Careful though you could become fully corrupted.....
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 28, 2013 - 09:56am PT
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Draggin yer butt is a drag.
Tami would just heel hook the whole dang thing like a party trick. She would get big grins watching all the boys struggle over problems she's cruisin.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2013 - 10:36am PT
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Yup. I can see it now. "Tami Knight, sends v12 onsight and sets new female age record." ;)
Lol! I bet she could! ;)
Butt dragging is a bummer for sure. Thank god for the pad posse or my butt woulda been mega sore the next day. That first shot is a total setup. Pretty sure i never even got that far ;)
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MH2
climber
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Jan 28, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
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Another day not in Jtree
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 28, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
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Quit being such a wet blanket MH2! Rolf is probably all sunburned and dehydrated down there. We got all natural remedy for that up here, just stand outside all day!
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MH2
climber
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Jan 28, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
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That's me having a GUD time!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 28, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
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Cool dog! Haha Relic, that's more like it, Mikes arms are the same height as the holds!
-any new word on the cannibal zombie troll boulderers that are loose in the grand wall forest?
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 28, 2013 - 02:24pm PT
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Think of all the money your saving on chapstick Mh2, not to mention our climate is good for the complexion. I'm sure Rolf is already starting to look like this lady being down in Jtree with those Santa Anna winds.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 28, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
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The skulls...
No clue, I been snortin and hocking loogies sick here in the city. You scaredy cats Squamishites better get the investigation happening before they get all soggy.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 28, 2013 - 03:48pm PT
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Tami, if you go bouldering MORE THAN ONCEEEE, you develop this thing called strength. Haha. With your talents you would crush!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 28, 2013 - 04:45pm PT
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This reminds me of when I was about 12 there was a local radio station in Kamloops that put on a contest where they had hidden a golden skull with ruby eyes, valued around $50k somewhere in the bush with 40k of downtown, they put a grid map in the paper & every week on the radio blanked out a square which represent a square km where the skull wasn't. This was to happen until there was only 15 squares left. Once down to 15 they talked about the skull week in & week out until winter came & the contest kind of disappeared. As a young buck me & my friends did our share of looking around the 10k radius from our neighborhood we could get on our bikes, we found many interesting things but the skull was never found by anyone & much like this current skull story, many of the townspeople wondered if it was ever real.................
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2013 - 06:17pm PT
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I got up early this morning and got inspired to do a few edits. Nina's been bugging me for some Bulletheads pics. What you have to understand Nina is that is takes considerable effort to turn this:
Nina on p1 of Two Rats and a Titmouse 10d (p1-10c)
Into this:
but sometimes shots like this:
Kyle on p3 of Two Rats
Require very little effort due to the lighting and background.
And background is what turns a great shot into an amazing one imo.
Kyle and Kieran at the belay for Ride the Bullet 10d
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
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Tami you would enjoy yourself. stop resisting the power of the dark side ;)
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Jan 28, 2013 - 11:09pm PT
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Don't do it Tami! They're all evil little (and big, like Mike) trolls who live under the rocks and eat children. Those body parts found in the forest should be evidence enough!
K
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2013 - 11:24pm PT
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Hahaha! ;)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 29, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
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Yeah, right, "Why not come bouldering with us, little girl" said some guys carrying portable mattresses.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 29, 2013 - 03:40pm PT
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Nice ones Brownie! Not sure if it's the eye of the tiger, maybe the eye of the chipmunk on me.
Come with me little Tami, I have candies!! MUWAHAHAHAHA!
Where is Nathan in that picture? Oh, I see. I thought his hand was a leaf or something.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 29, 2013 - 05:21pm PT
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Yay Tami! :)
BmacD has been known to dabble in the pebbles recently. He should be an easy sell to come out.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 30, 2013 - 03:01am PT
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Sometimes you're flush and sometimes you're bust.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 30, 2013 - 10:41pm PT
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It's gonna be +10C and sunny this weekend but the Bridge is "going off" [sic]. Plus, pow. Tough call!
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Jan 31, 2013 - 12:34am PT
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there is a string of police tape near psyche ledge, perhaps the plot is thickening..
relic any update from your friend of a friend?
i'm scared.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Jan 31, 2013 - 12:48am PT
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Planning Friday/Saturday in the Smoke Bluffs - portaledge bivy on Neat and Cool this time, Penny Lane sucks for bivy
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Jan 31, 2013 - 12:53am PT
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there is a string of police tape near psyche ledge, perhaps the plot is thickening..
Luke Strong paroled in Squamish!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 31, 2013 - 02:28am PT
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Nope. Just keep it all hush hush while they investigate it. Forget about it.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Jan 31, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
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Heard some creepy news. Six skulls were found in the Grand Wall forest by the stone carving yesterday, kids' skulls. I don't see it in the news yet...
there is a string of police tape near psyche ledge, perhaps the plot is thickening..
Nope. Just keep it all hush hush while they investigate it. Forget about it.
Once you open Pandoras Box it's impossible to shove it back in the jar, and since the Pickton debacle ,it's hard to have faith in the police investigative process. If there was even a slight chance of danger to the public or you are parent in Squamish, wouldn't you be concerned and expect some kind of public announcement?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Random Sqaumish photo question: Is this a climb? Or a steep driveway?
And, oh, look at the Supertopian peeking over the skyline.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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I'm sure that's MH2 even without my glasses.
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MH2
climber
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Could be Anders. And for sure it isn't the new famous white T.C. route at Cliffhanger from which yours truly drew the sword others could not wrest.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Looks to be the mighty Wisecrack, before it's little tree was ripped out. I see you peeking over the top Andy!
K
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I'm sure that's MH2 even without my glasses.
I think so, too, but I have absolutely no memory of taking this picture. Apron, sure, but what is Helen climbing? Where was Andy standing? Where was I standing when I shot it? Is there a rope?
I haven't got a clue about any of it. Don't even know when I took it, although from the filename it was taken with a camera I stopped using about 6 or 7 years ago. So sometime between 2001 and 2005.
Edit: Wisecrack? That's at Burgers & Fries, right? Which would put Andy on top and me either on the ground, or barely off it.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Burgers and Fries cliff Ghost, not the Apron. Andy is lurking above all the pretty young girls top roping there.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Yeah I expected it to hit the media Rolf, but I heard the police asked the people that found them not to go to the media. I presume so it doesn't interfere with their investigation. I blabbed what I knew here in my earlier post Bruce.
I don't know what to think of it. It is totally bizarre and gruesome if it is real, which I don't know if it even is.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Relic & I were in there the day before, our prints are all over that forest- already dusted. I have a hard time believing this still but if so this is pretty gnarly & yes people should know I would think if it truly is legit. I hope it is not true, Brownie did u see this tape with ur own red eyes??
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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yea i sure did ryan, i woulda taken a photo but it was dark and i was tired. Had just wandered from valleycliff to the chief parking lot via the not so regular route and was surprised to find the tape, it was about 40 meters north of the entrance to the boulders but there was none to the south..
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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That's crazy.
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JSmith
climber
Squamish
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Does anyone know anything about the aid route 5m to the right of Creepshow on the Cacodemon?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jsmith, Is that the corner? Looked like someone was cleaning it up a bit last spring if so. I also heard there may or may not be a newer anchor up top. looks cool.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Ryan you'll be found as the perp. I'll bake a cake with a few pins in it , bring it to you when you are serving life, minimum 25 years.
Remember they always shoot the messenger.
I hope you can still post from Kent.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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No probs Rolfr, were in Canada & I'm Canadian & never been arrested, I'll be free in 7 yrs tops, maybe 5 if I splurge for the pricey lawyer. Where's Anders??
Edit- not the messenger
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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or maybe it was you bk??
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Hahah ^^^ that's funny!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2013 - 02:00am PT
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Lol.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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nice toprope clusterf*#k
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JSmith
climber
Squamish
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RyanD, not the corner. The line of loose looking flakes left of the corner. Has a couple rusted studs on top, a buttonhead at the bottom and a few pinscars on the way.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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While on the topic of obscure single pitch "yur probably gunna die" aid routes...
Does anyone know anything about an aid route on the south side of fatty boulder?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Does anyone know anything about the aid route 5m to the right of Creepshow on the Cacodemon?
Campbell guide 1985 didn't have it listed. I have it drawn in in pencil with a question mark in mine from the 90s. Ask Maddaloni - he will probably know.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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ryanD is stoked he has aids
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Yep, its true- I always thought I'd get them from Luke but at least he came to watch.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2013 - 11:39pm PT
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Hahaha! Sweet!
Fixed gear bump! Thanks for the PM Scrubber! I'm gonna kill me some staples this year ;)
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Danny G
climber
Squamish, BC
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I found 2 cams on my rack that don't belong to me. Climbed at Penny Lane on Saturday Feb 2. Describe them and I can get them back to you.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Well, .... there's two of them, uh.... they have curvy wiggly things on top, and uh... when you pull the little bar down all the curvy things move at the same time. And oh yeah! the webbing on them is different colours. They must be mine. :)
K
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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I'm gonna kill me some staples this year ;)
Big Mike to you mean the kind that show up in the playmate's stomach?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
|
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Hey Luke, speaking of obscure aid routes, did you ever get around to doing Amphitheatre on the Apron? Or is it on the agenda for this summer?
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
|
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Hmm, what is this "Amphitheatre" of which you speak....
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
|
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Hmm, what is this "Amphitheatre" of which you speak... Ancient, long neglected aid route left of Snake. No doubt would go free today, with some work.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
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Aid route on the Apron? Now that's interesting.
I imagine someone aiding Banana Peel. The hook he's on pops and...
...and he lies there on the low-angle slab for a while, then stands up, ditches the aiders, and walks up to the top.
But Amphitheater? Have to go look that one up. (Although climbing it at this time of year would probably be more like amphibian theater.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
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Whoo Hoo! Found it. In the Holy Word of Gordie Smaill, Book of Apron, Page 74, Paragraph 2:
Amphitheatre
first ascent: Tony Ellis and Glenn Woodsworth 1965
time: four hours
5.3 A2
Arrive on the Stage via Gringo a-go-go or Snake. Start off the left side and free to the overhangs above. Nail the leaning corner above to a hanging station on steep slabs. Work up and right to the final overhanging corner. Hammer up it to easy slabs above.
equipment: Knife blades up to one inch.
Can't believe I never tried it.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
|
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iirc Amphitheatre isn't much different from Gringo-a-Gogo, at least at the old aid crux.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
|
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Amphitheatre and Gringo are entirely separate lines. They cross each other, but otherwise are completely different. Both are very old school. No power drill rap bolting on either route. No wussy cleaning either! :)
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
|
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No power drill rap bolting on either route. No wussy cleaning either
And no bolts on either route! Go for them, Ghost!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
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Feb 10, 2013 - 01:58am PT
|
Lets get this thread back where it belongs.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 03:09am PT
|
Absolutely right Dave. Sorry for my slackness lately. I've been getting caught up in the void of the taco when I have much more important things I could be doing.
How about a little photo essay?
Kyle is very happy to clip the first bolt on "Over Fourty"
Toque was gone by the second bolt so you know he's serious.
Going for some powder courage
No RP this time!
Getting back on the horse
Ummm where is the next bolt?
Oh there it is. Way up there?!
Still not there yet?
Please let me clip this bolt!
Damn that was far!
That has to be at least a 16 foot runout.
Getting to the anchor isn't trivial either...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 11:18am PT
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Morning bump.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
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Feb 10, 2013 - 01:11pm PT
|
Guesses about the route pic at the top of this page?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
|
BK- yup!
Ghost it's vagina er I mean cobra crack ;)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
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Feb 10, 2013 - 01:28pm PT
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Obviously too easy.
So, who is the climber?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 01:36pm PT
|
Hard to tell from the back. With the hair I'm guessing its Didier? Interestingly Wiki says he quit climbing after first ascent?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
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Feb 10, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
|
Not Didier. And he did not make the first ascent. But yes, I did hear that he'd given up climbing -- I think he entered a monastery. Or some kind of religious withdrawal.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
|
No the movie first ascent which documented his attempts on cobra. After a bit of googling it looks like Nicolas Favresse?
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
|
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Feb 10, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
|
Fred Sanford?
"Don't you know your guzintas, Fred? Two guzinta four, three guzinta six."
"Yeah, and five guzinta yo lip, Grady!"
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
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Feb 10, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
|
It's Nico. A friend and I were up there on Boogie Till You Puke a few years ago (okay, Erik was on BTYP, I was providing a manly belay). We'd seen a rope hanging out from the cliff top, redirected through a sling to a tree, so it hung well out from Cobra Crack and didn't know what it was for.
Then three guys showed up. One jugged up the rope with a video camera, the other two roped up and one of them started climbing Cobra Crack. He didn't get it. He could do all the moves, placing pro on lead, but he couldn't link it all up. What was really impressive was that he didn't seem maxed out. No screaming, no thrashing, just amazingly smooth. The climb was a bit too hard for him, but not by much. When I found out later that it was 14-something I couldn't believe what I'd seen that day.
Nice guy, too. Real quiet and friendly.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
|
Nice Ghost. That sling is still there!! Gave me a few ideas, although I haven't had the opportunity to try them yet. That thing looks rediculous when you stand at the base of it! :)
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Feb 10, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
|
I stood at the base of CC last summer and realized that the people that can climb it are a different species from me.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Feb 10, 2013 - 11:04pm PT
|
When I found out later that it was 14-something I couldn't believe what I'd seen that day.
Yeah, pretty amazing. One day, back in the dark ages, we were toproping a bunch of hard routes around on the NE and N sides of Siwash Rock. Some kid, 15, as it turned out, came along and hiked up the regular (south, "Slippery Slab") route on the rock. Downclimbed the thing and stood around chatting. We tossed him a rope, and he waltzed up some of the hardest routes on the north sides that we'd been struggling with.
We tried to get him interested in going to Squamish with us that weekend, but he just wasn't interested. But talk about talent...
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
|
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Feb 11, 2013 - 12:30am PT
|
Yeah, Tami, 1963 or 1964. Guy's name was Sommerville or Sommerfield, or something similar. Not Sanford, or Smaill.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 02:00am PT
|
Nice story Glenn! Thanks! When me Ryand and Kieran were on ypls, I looked down and saw Marc Andre soloing up behind us to recon Milk Road. He turned around at the aid move in the traverse over to the base of Milk Run, but it was still pretty impressive!
Watching him solo crime of the century was pretty cool too.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 13, 2013 - 01:38am PT
|
Hey Hamie! Me n' Kieran did this one today. I was happy to see when i got home & looked in my instruction manual that it was one of your routes. My first aid lead too, although you probably didn't have 75 cams like i did :-) Did you name it?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 02:57am PT
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Bump for Hamie! Check out the last message on the last page!
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
|
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Feb 14, 2013 - 12:49am PT
|
Ooooohhhh, The Terror! I had dreams of cleaning and attempting to climb that thing years ago. They were thwarted by some old-time locals telling me that Peter C had done it many years before and never bothered to even report it.
Great rainy solo-aid route though!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
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Feb 14, 2013 - 04:17am PT
|
Scrubber i think someone has been working it recently or did it because there's a shiny new fixe anchor under the roof & at the finish. Pretty clean as well.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 14, 2013 - 06:48pm PT
|
A new bolt appeared at the end of the roof too, to allow you to climb to the top without your rope pinching under at the corner. Obviously not needed for solo-aid, but pretty crucial if leading free.
K
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 14, 2013 - 09:43pm PT
|
Oh interesting, the free bolt u speak of was not there the other day?
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Feb 15, 2013 - 12:20am PT
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Terror, one of my first leads bashing pins. I think Dirty Harry may have told me who was working the free ascent. Seem to remember someone mentioning it over coffe at Sawbucks in town. Dam it sucks when your memory goes!
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MH2
climber
|
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Feb 15, 2013 - 12:27am PT
|
It was you that left Rolf. Your memory is doing fine up North, here.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
|
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Feb 15, 2013 - 12:41am PT
|
I'm pretty sure I saw that bolt out at the right end of the roof in the fall while walking by, but I haven't been there since.
K
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 01:52am PT
|
That pitch looks rad. I wonder what it'll go at??
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browniephoto
climber
bc
|
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Feb 16, 2013 - 01:28am PT
|
wooohooo!!!
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
|
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Feb 16, 2013 - 01:56am PT
|
Saw 3 or 4 people hanging out on Wrist Twister from the parking lot today. One guy was either a really fast aid climber, or....
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
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Feb 16, 2013 - 04:10am PT
|
Wrist twister- expect lineups.
Jim, awesome day!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2013 - 04:22am PT
|
Met up with the elusive HarryHotDog tonight, at a tiki bar just off the strip.
Also pictured are Vegasclimber (Travis) and his lovely fiancé Christina. It was a lovely night enjoyed by all parties. Hope to get out with Harry on Sunday!
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
|
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Feb 16, 2013 - 09:58am PT
|
Marc-Andre and his friend Luke are working on a free variation of Wrist Twister which joins the upper section of Cerebrus.
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markr
Trad climber
|
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Feb 21, 2013 - 02:43am PT
|
This thread needs a bump. One of my climbing partners finally got a decent camera, so here are some shots from a few weeks ago in the Bluffs.
Byron on...? You tell me.
Yours truly, my beautiful woman keeping me off the deck. I never noticed how tight she keeps the rope, ha ha.
Photo credits for both: Mark Van Eijk.
I miss the sun. Waiting for the dry in Squish seems almost strenuous sometimes, especially if you don't spend winters gliding around the snow on fibreglass or strapping knives to your feet and hands while hoping they don't cut your rope.
I got hopeful we'd have a nice spring after a great January, but here we are. I've turned to drink, I hope y'all are in better shape.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
|
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Feb 21, 2013 - 09:59am PT
|
Sweet pics mark, first one appears to be the finger crack at clean starts.
Second one, I'm not sure,
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markr
Trad climber
|
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Feb 21, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
|
You're right about Clean Starts, Luke. Surprised you didn't recognize the second one, as *somewhere* in this thread there's a pic of you on the same route with the same colour helmet giving out free tix to the gun show...
(I'm pretty sure it's you, anyhow, the angle's not ideal.)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
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Feb 21, 2013 - 08:15pm PT
|
Yep that's kangaroo corner.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
|
Ya. It's tough when the thread author goes galavanting off too far flung climbing destinations... Thanks for the pix!!
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markr
Trad climber
|
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Feb 22, 2013 - 01:07am PT
|
Where you been, Mike?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
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Feb 22, 2013 - 01:18am PT
|
Where you been, Mike?
Bumbling up candy-ass 5.8s at Red Rocks, that's where. It'll probably take him a full year to come to terms with Squamish climbing again. And he may have completely ruined his chances of ever climbing at Index.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
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Feb 22, 2013 - 02:23am PT
|
That was a tricky one Tami, i couldn't figure it out either until i saw the blast holes :-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 03:06am PT
|
Bumbling up candy-ass 5.8s at Red Rocks, that's where. It'll probably take him a full year to come to terms with Squamish climbing again. And he may have completely ruined his chances of ever climbing at Index.
Highly doubt that!! Sandstone is rad but granite is my first love. Index is a must also. As to the grades I've been climbing, well, you can't always get what you want... But at least I've been climbing 9 out of the last 11 days... Can you say that Dave??
Markr check out "Vegas baby! Vegas!"
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squamishmonkey
Trad climber
Squamish
|
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Feb 22, 2013 - 01:16pm PT
|
I added the anchors under the roof and cleaned up the first pitch of the Terror; we also added a proper anchor to the end of the route. I was distracted by other projects and my partner took it over. The route goes at 11b/c by Finlayson and that bolt has sprouted since last summer, he cleaned the pitch and sent the same day.
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browniephoto
climber
bc
|
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Feb 22, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
|
The Kid was practicing his expanDo nut placements at the SABC meeting last night...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 22, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
|
But at least I've been climbing 9 out of the last 11 days... Can you say that Dave??
Well, sure, I could say it, but it wouldn't be true. I think I got to the gym once, and might even go tonight. But I'll be bumbling my way up a bunch of candy-ass Red Rocks 5.5s and 5.6s in a couple of weeks, too.
When you do get down here this summer, let me know. I'd love to get out with you. As long as you're willing to hang with someone for whom Red Rocks 5.6 is now serious.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
|
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Feb 22, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
|
The route goes at 11b/c by Finlayson That's an unexpected surprise! I suspect that because it looks so fearsome, it's kept most suitors away.
K
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
|
Red Rocks 5.6 should be considered serious for anyone!! Talk about Cheese grater!!!! The harder routes are less featured and you actually might survive a fall unhurt.
As to if I'll climb with you, the answer should be obvious. Of course I will!!! Easter, Leavenworth, lets make it happen.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
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Feb 22, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
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11b/c Finlayson could mean a lot of things :-) there's actually a lot of footholds so it may not be far from the truth, he did however also call betazoid 11b/c(12b) after warming up on it one day so.........
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
|
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Feb 22, 2013 - 05:01pm PT
|
Hey Casper the candy ass, I'm proud to say I love doing aesthetic 5.6s even though I onsight 5.14 except at Index where I'm lucky to get up a 5.9. Grades are hard down there.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
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Feb 22, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
|
I'm proud to say I love doing aesthetic 5.6s even though I onsight 5.14 except at Index where I'm lucky to get up a 5.9. Grades are hard down there.
No sh#t. I think it was Jim Donini who once said "If you can climb at Index, you can climb anywhere."
I don't think it's the grades, because no matter how soft or sandbag the grades, you pretty soon adjust. I think it's more that the rock there requires a higher level of commitment at whatever grade. Most places offer a variety of commitment levels. At Squamish there there is plenty of climbing to be had at whatever level of commitment you are prepared to accept on any given day. Whereas at Index there are relatively few climbs -- at any grade -- that don't require you to bring everything you have.
That, plus the fact that there just aren't very many easy climbs.
Anyway, back to Squamish...
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 23, 2013 - 08:31pm PT
|
I never said that Mike. I was really happy with it when it came out, I just get over-critical when watching it that's all. You are putting words in my mouth!
That's funny it ended up on some euro site for download.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2013 - 08:48pm PT
|
My apologies. I guess I misinterpreted your comments ;)
Sick film dude. Those euros like to see our rock I guess!
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MH2
climber
|
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Feb 23, 2013 - 09:27pm PT
|
No Permanent Address is a Relic production?! It has a good vibe. There is a small bit where a women tops out on a boulder, maybe in the Happys, and does a brief almost-dance. For me that was unexpected, genuine, and the kind of thing that stands out from the crowd of more high-production climbing videos I've seen. I thought the whole thing was a good look at how regular people(?) go about a life of climbing.
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
|
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Feb 23, 2013 - 09:37pm PT
|
Heading down to the brewpub in about half an hour if anyone cares to celebrate me vacating squamish for a while? Will be there for a while I imagine. All and sundry are welcome :-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 12:37am PT
|
We are currently at the pub. Here's a couple crappy bar pics.
Fishboy, Luke and Aislinn
Paul is stoked!
Relic and Paul
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MH2
climber
|
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Feb 24, 2013 - 12:42am PT
|
That's a good feeling! Thanks for the pub pics. I can 'shop them in my mind.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
|
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Feb 24, 2013 - 03:08am PT
|
MH2, that's Carrie Cooper you are talking about doing the little almost dance. She used to be a pro dancer, definetely has some moves. She's a total babe and a crusher of rocks. I was very happy to film her :) She's a beautiful mom now and still a crusher of rocks.
Ahh yes the Brutal pub. Nasty food and even the beer was crappy this time. I swear the burger there has changed at least twenty times. You never know what you are gonna get. Good thing there was good company and good craic to make it all better.
See ya soon Paul!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 03:36am PT
|
Thanks for the pub pics. I can 'shop them in my mind.
Thanks Andy! I'm pretty sure no amount of 'shoppin could save those ones, but I figured it was the thought that counted ;)
Hope you had a fun night Jim! I think I may have turned the corner on the wall rat thing. It's just a matter of having the right partner. Maybe some day I might want to borrow a few of those pins..
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 24, 2013 - 04:15am PT
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Jim apparently has the brew pub HR manual to reference & pretty much sums it up. Still it remains a fun place to swill a few budweisers a few times a year. Looks like u guys had a good time, I was working so maybe next time. Unless its Saturday night, I'll be working. Relic looks affected for sure! Still managed to go climb for a few minutes in the sun this afternoon though!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 10:25am PT
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Nice Ryan!! I heard your going to Yosemite with the boys to aid climb??? I'm jealous, what happened to going with me and sending a bunch of sick free routes??? Oh well, good luck with them, sounds like some interesting objectives.
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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Feb 24, 2013 - 02:58pm PT
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Cheers lads, and thanks to everyone who came out, last night was great fun!Jim, I'll definitely be back. Unfinished business on the chief, and the wall climbing in Squamish is genuinely quality. I'll make sure you can make my next going away :-)
Missing ye all already.....
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 25, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
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Rather than bump the stupid "People who scrub rock and build trails are evil" thread I'll bring Ryan's question over here to the Squamish thread. Which not only is where it belongs, but gives me a chance to let Big Mike know we're all wishing him the best. And also, there's a direct-line connection between this project's unfinished state and Mike's current state, which means it just has to go here.
So, anyway Andy posted this shot of one of my old projects:
And Ryan said:
Thanks Andy! Looks pretty cool actually, some quality stone. What's the deal with that thing Ghost? As the FA'ist would you give us permission to go up there with chainsaws & wire brushes & Ice hammers & rappel powered drills to do a little cleanup??
The deal with that thing is that way back in the last century, on the eve of my fiftieth birthday, I was not a happy man. Life had taken the wrong turn for me, and instead of looking forward to celebrating the next day in the company of family, friends, and lover, I knew I would be alone, and didn't see that changing any time soon. So I spent that next day doing the one thing I had left that gave me any joy... I bashed in to the base of the Oleson Wall and started a new route.
It was pissing rain, and cold. The climb was filthy. Seemed appropriate to commemorate the day by naming the thing "Candles in the Rain"
Over the next year I worked on it intermittently, mostly by myself, but sometimes with my friend Helen Habgood. We made some progress, and I began to believe that the climb might turn into something good. But just over a year from the day I started working on it, I moved to Golden.
When I moved back to Vancouver another year later, I went back and restarted work on it. (And also on an interesting little wall I found in Capilano Canyon).
And then I pulled a Big Mike. In a completely innocuous little fall on my bike (at the grand speed of about two miles per hour) I broke my hip.
As depressing as my future had looked before, I now didn't know if I'd ever walk again, let alone ride or climb or ski. Which is pretty much where Mike is going to be in a week or so. His close friends will be there for him, of course, but I can't stress enough how important it will be for all of us in the Supertopo community to continue to support him during his rehab period. I had strong support from my friends, but what really made a big difference was to hear from so many people in the internet climbing community (rec.climbing, back then).
Now, as it turned out, the hip frx marked the low point, and ever since then things have become better every day. It started with the support of the climbing community, progressed through an amazing job offer, which took me to a new city that is the best place I've ever lived, and led ultimately to meeting someone I've been in love with ever since (and happily married to for most of the last decade).
But I never did get back on Candles in the Rain.
I got close though. A couple of months after my accident I limped and staggered through the snow from the Bulletheads parking lot to the start of the backside trail. Getting up that little 10-foot scramble (this was before there were stairs there) was the hardest climb I ever did. I managed to get to the little bridge across the creek, but there was no way I could deal with the bush and boulders between there and the base of the wall. In fact I almost couldn't make it back to the car.
In the early spring, my bolt-together leg had healed enough for Andy (MH2) to take me out for a day in the Bluffs, but then came the job in Seattle, and...
In theory, I could could go back to work on that climb, but it's not likely that I will, and I would be thrilled if some of you guys who are active at Squamish now got out the crowbars and saws and wire brushes turned it into a real climb.
And maybe take a little chunk of rock that you've pried off it and give it to Mike as a present from me.
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Danny G
climber
Squamish, BC
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Feb 25, 2013 - 01:09pm PT
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Hey Jim Brennan, I'm an aspiring wall rat and am looking to pick up some pitons if your friend is willing to sell em' off.
I should probably stop being such a lurker and contribute. Can anyone name this climb?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 25, 2013 - 01:16pm PT
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Looks like up up and away to me Danny. Hey I got lots pitons you can borrow if you ever want, in exchange for Wet Denim Daydream beta.
604 849 3133 (text only)
I got the today through Thursday off if anyone wants to climb in the rain hit me up.
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markr
Trad climber
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Feb 25, 2013 - 01:26pm PT
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Is that Up Up and Away, Danny?
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Danny G
climber
Squamish, BC
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Feb 25, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
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Yup that's Up, Up, and Away.
Luke, thanks for the offer. I'll gladly give you all the beta you want for Wet Denim Daydream. Such a great route!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Feb 25, 2013 - 04:09pm PT
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Ghost, nice story; much appreciated here.
G
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 25, 2013 - 09:17pm PT
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Yeah David, thanks for the reply! Very nice story, thanks for answering my question with such a great share. I thought we were just gonna keep trolling with all the moss lovers over there but this is much better. I think I'll walk up there & check it out sometime.
Hey Luke, scratch the rain- lets go climb in the sun in the am!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 27, 2013 - 12:37pm PT
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Bump for Squamish climbing season coming round the corner!
Don't think i ever posted this on here but here's some video i shot of my friend working the route "Lost highway" at the Pet. He tried it on & off for a few years & was getting really close before he moved to Asia in the fall. Maybe one day Coz will join in & pipe up about this one, i think perhaps he bolted it & abandoned it?? Then i think Marc B did it & probably Scott M but i don't know of any others though i'm sure there's a few?
Anyhow, this was my first time trying to shoot video on a route so it's kinda choppy, but it was fun & i learned a bunch- enjoy!
https://vimeo.com/40140855
Edit- the holds are impossibly small on this thing!! The Pettiest of the Pet!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 27, 2013 - 01:07pm PT
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Nice lead but pales in comparision to your winter ascent of "Can't feel my fingers road" From what I can tell your climbing season starts on January 1st and ends on December 31st. Same dates as the Vancouver rain festival. Nice vid, is that a Scott Cosgrove route?
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MH2
climber
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Feb 27, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
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That guy is smooth and powerful. Now I want a pair of those shoes.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 27, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
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Hehe the secret is lady's muiras apparently. Imagine no name covered in ice in the middle of the night Harry-in the rain- that's how this thing felt on TR!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Hi to RyanD and Big Mike.
I had decided to take a break from winter/skiing and was down in Potrero for 2 weeks, and so missed your Feb 12 posts about The Terror. Good to hear that you enjoyed it. That's a big roof, and an impressive FFA by Finlayson. No, Tim and I didn't name it. It was prolly a Culbert name.
Big Mike. Very sorry to read about your accident. You have been "paying it forward" for some time, and should have a good karma bank account built up by now. All the best.
H
.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2013 - 01:54am PT
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Thanks Hamie! Too cool guys!! It's all just too much for me to keep up with at the moment. I've actually been quite busy here!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Cool stuff Harry! I think I've seen the video before, just can't remember where?!
Hamie! You lucky guy, Potrero is so much fun. Are you gonna spin up a little TR for us??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2013 - 10:07am PT
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Wow Ryan!! Super cool video!! Remi is so smooth and precise! It's beautiful to watch.
Dave, Thank you.
As depressing as my future had looked before, I now didn't know if I'd ever walk again, let alone ride or climb or ski. Which is pretty much where Mike is going to be in a week or so. His close friends will be there for him, of course, but I can't stress enough how important it will be for all of us in the Supertopo community to continue to support him during his rehab period. I had strong support from my friends, but what really made a big difference was to hear from so many people in the internet climbing community (rec.climbing, back then).
Truer words have never been spoken, and I didn't truely understand them till tonight!!!! I will get through this, hell or high water. I realized tonight it is going to be incredibly tough and I need every hand I can get. Every message, call, and visit helps me immensely at this time..
Am really looking forward to Scrubber, Glen and Harry's visits, and hope life will not interfere but totally understand if it does.
It's funny, I see people get flustered and feel like they cannot accomplish small tasks because they are somewhat difficult for them. I wonder at these times if they truly understand the meaning of difficulty.
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MH2
climber
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Good to see Mike post on this thread especially now. Gives meaning to navigating through difficulty.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Time for a bump. Let's keep BM's thread going.
I'm not sure how many people following this thread still climb in the alpine, but if you do......... Davey Jones' new guide to Rogers Pass is now out, and available at your favourite non-profit retailer. That's the one which specializes in trendy upscale urban/outdoor clothing, and bicycles.
Usual quality text. Usual quality photos. Ha ha!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Looks cool Hamie! What that peak on the front & how's the bushwack out there??
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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That NE Face of Sir Donald on the cover looks crazy ....
From every perspective
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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I was wondering where that pic was from Bruce, now I know:)
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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Yeah, I know already...
But for a Yank, Squeemish approaches took some getting used to.
Nothing like yarding from vine-like roots, or doing the “shiver me timbers” log traverse to get to the start of your climb.
So, on my drive back home one road trip's afternoon, I decided to visit Murray Falls Provicial Park to check out a slab alongside Shannon Falls – maybe I've got these place names mixed up, but, anyway-
Between the parking lot and the foot of the slab is a “creek.” Now, in the Sierra, a creek is a proposition normally handled (or 'footed') with stepping stones, unless a fallen tree log happens to be nearby.
There were plenty of stepping stones here – all of which resembled gigantic bowling balls, except more polished.
There was also a fallen log, about 6 feet (2 meters) in diameter, spanning the 75 feet or so across what was actually a raging Canadian torrent at the foot of Shannon Falls. But it was suspended, bank to bank, about 15 feet above the river.
“This can't be right!” thinking of my local partner, who described the first day of a backcountry trip as spent trying to merely cross the inlet to Howe Sound...
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Between the parking lot and the foot of the slab is a “creek.” Now, in the Sierra, a creek is a proposition normally handled (or 'footed') with stepping stones ...
You're not in California any more! Many creeks here are rivers in most other places in the world.
You don't cross either of these easily; they are a lot bigger and swifter than they look.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Thanks Bruce. Looks & sounds very worthy, could this Sir Donald be our version of the w ridge of conness?
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Out_of_bounds
climber
Squamish/Revy
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long time lurker here... Thanks for the heads up on the new guide Hamie.
I think that picture also shows the North Face route, which is a Fred Beckey and Yvon Chouinard route, and around the corner to the east is a Hamie and Bruce Fairley route, which sounds like it might be a good first ascent story.
There is some good sport climbing in Revy, and over the past few years there has been a number of long adventurous sport routes put up on Boulder Mtn and
Victor Lake Wall, which are all within close proximity of the Trans Canada Hwy.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Photos of the Elvis fish coming soon.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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RyanD,
The quality rock of Rogers Pass and the Bugaboos are the Canadian versions of the Sierras Eastside, except the weather is unstable, the bears are huge, and nasty electrical storms almost every afternoon. California is much more fun.
Look up Mount MacDonald in Rogers pass if you really want your mind blown. Or ask Bruce Kay about it. One thousand meters of hard fifth class climbing, in direct view of the highway the whole time, fa'ed very recently, 2010, "The North Pillar Direct " 5.11c A0 1000m x? "Sustained" is one descriptor used, minimum 5.9 every pitch for 25 pitches, lots of 5.11
In comparison, both the Seventh Rifle and the Watchtower on the North Howser Tower felt shorter, easier and less committing than the north face of MacDonald. - Jon Walsh
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mt. MacDonald, North Pillar
FA Bruce Kay, Jon Walsh
ED2 [Extremely Difficult Level 2] 11b.
"One of the great climbs of Rogers Pass".
Very cool, Bruce.
The differences between the Eastside [rockclimbing] and Rogers Pass [mountaineering] are mostly commitment, and suffering. :) :)
Talking of suffering..... When I was in Potrero last month I met a climber from Ontario called Van. He was stuck for two very cold nights last fall on Long Ledge near the top of the Salathe, by the same storm which caught Luke and his partner on the Muir.
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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You're not in California any more! Many creeks here are rivers in most other places in the world.
Word.
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Out_of_bounds
climber
Squamish/Revy
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Hey Bruce, it was nice to meet you today and thanks again for the ride, glad your jackets were still hanging around.
Spending time in Rogers Pass either to climb,ski or hike should be on everyone's tick list. For a fantastic resource of info on the area, check out www.rogerspass411.ca - It is a unreal source of info, which skiers might find the most useful but still very handy for climbers.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 01:33am PT
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Heck ya! MacDonald looks rad!!!
Ryand you should post your st vitus adventure in here!!!
Luke, your fish is sideways!! ;)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Haha not much more to tell there Mike, but since you've got extra taco time these days I'll give it a shot in hopes it will help you pass some time & crack a grin.
Even though Luke an I see each other all the time & hang out at the crag or in the rain somewhat regularly we had never really shared a rope, we've conspired to do many great climbs & even have a open wager on who will complete a certain climbing challenge first but its been tough to get out & tie in on the same line. We figured it was high time & while we were out cragging at lumberland in the afternoon (not sharing a rope though) we decided on an evening st V lap. The best apron route IMO + with Luke + @ night + for a chance to put a grin on BM's bedridden face had all the makings of a great outing.
As for details? Not much to tell, ive done the route a bunch & luke had only done the first & last pitch. Hmm, lets see: we simuled up the approach pitches to the ledge, when I saw Luke put me on the hip belay at the tie in I figured we were pretty much just carrying the rope up to the real climbing so yeah I was surprised for sure when Luke fell seconding the 5.7 just below the treed ledge! I caught him on a biner belay from my stance against the wall with my feet on the log, funny thing was I thought about my setup & readjusted just before he peeled. We had a good laugh about that & The rest of the route was fun, Luke led & we simuled up to memorial where Luke ran the PDL up memorial crack which was the first wetness we encountered on the climb. As mentioned elsewhere we conspired about ice on the buttress & Luke had inside info on the recently discovered samsquantch so we pussed out & headed down. Normally I'd take the gulley raps too but since we did Memorial crack there was no point by the time we got off there. As for the death rope, I think it's pretty sweet, but now that the swamp somehow disappeared(?????) underneath it, I'll just rap on my rope next time. Night climbing is fun & Luke climbs with the tenacity of a honey badger, likely his spirit animal- who wouldn't want to climb with a honey badger?? I look forward to more.
Now what I want to know is, how the hell does BK have all this time to pick all of this wonderful fruit?? Sounds like a brilliant climb you guys put up there. Bmacd, u ever climb your namesake mountain??
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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I think I recall that 5.7 move I peeled off on was a tad on the wet side...
Mike was extremely disappointed when I told him I was pulling on gear the whole way up. But we were moving at 200m vertical per hour rate which is pretty good considering our objective only requires 50m per hour.
Running the PDL for the first time was totally awesome.
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MH2
climber
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I worked night shift for years. There you are far from the centers of power, the sheriff is asleep, and you make your own rules.
Is PDL one of those position-sensitive headlamps?
Now go repost this great story on the What Did You Climb Last Night thread.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 11:24am PT
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As for the death rope, I think it's pretty sweet
Ya that roller I dropped a couple weekends ago is usually pretty sick too. Too bad I didn't stick the landing. Just saying be careful dude. I'd rather not find you lying next to me here or worse. When I'm better I'm gonna go chop that thing so no one else risks it...
Andy thanks for lunch yesterday dude!!!
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MH2
climber
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Good to see you getting some zzzzzs, Mike. You gotta turn it up a notch or several if you want to win any snoring contest, though. Don't worry too much. Between you and John Long lately there are lots of people being a little more careful. But sometimes a chicken just has to cross a road.
edit
Thanks Luke
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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The PDL is a short fixing technique were learning in order to coverground fast. Instead of the leader self belaying after fixin the rope you just start leadin with a death loop of slack, set up for loafty whip on to the anchor if you blow it before for first piece, until you run out of rope then your partner puts you back on belay.
A system best applied when leading in blocks with the "leader must never fall" mentality
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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"leader must never fall" mentality
Please describe how this axiom is achieved, because I don't believe the present generation of Squamish Internet climbers are capable of this method.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Pakistani Death Loop...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2013 - 04:27am PT
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Too sick dude!! I love it. Gotta go find a proper computer to watch it on downstairs!!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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That's a well edited documentary of our extensive mental and physical training regime.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2013 - 04:42pm PT
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Anyone out climbing today?? Hope so!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2013 - 09:23pm PT
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Nice work Andy!!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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When are the best months to climb there?
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Andy I presume you took the picture,so who is the mystery man as it doesn't look like you?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Five stars for that seaside photo.
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MH2
climber
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If I didn't take the photo it must have been these guys. Now that would be mysterious. Maybe a shortwave tripped the remote.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Anyone out climbing today?? Hope so!!
Swapped leads on a half a dozen routes in JT with a strong young climber from Ontario, Luckily he lead Side Winder, dam it seemed a lot easier 23 years ago.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2013 - 10:35pm PT
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Kenny, aug and sept are usually the driest. Best bet for a road trip for sure. Plus it's usually to hot to climb stateside..,
Nice work Rolf!!
Andy.. Technology eh?? Sweet!
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MH2
climber
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Rolf, can we get JTree up for auction? Would they take a snowy mountain in trade?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
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Party at GF Strong!!
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Mar 10, 2013 - 12:31am PT
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That looks like Dave Vernon,judging by the hairy arms.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 10, 2013 - 12:34am PT
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Hey BM
Yes, we were out. Beauty day here in the Koots. A few folks up the lake at Wapiti and at Zebra. First day out for most. We did some lines at Zebra, and also planned to check out Waterline afterwards. However to get back to Waterline we had to drive by the Lion's Head pub, and were sucked in by the strange antigravity-vacuum-vortex which has its epi-centre in the pub's parking lot. But we had good intentions.
Here is a pic of Zebra Wall taken last fall. Ticks are out already.
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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Mar 10, 2013 - 03:03am PT
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things were getting weird at Get F*#kin Strong
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 10, 2013 - 03:14am PT
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things were getting weird at Get F*#kin Strong after we lit up the bong.
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The Call Of K2 Lou
climber
Squamish
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Mar 10, 2013 - 08:28pm PT
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Didn't do much climbing this weekend other than some chossy scrambling, but in Vancouver sunny winter skies must be shared:
Went exploring around this little pile in Belcarra Regional Park.
There's a few fun boulder problems, a ton of loose rock, and a lone bolt & hanger (anyone have any info?)
A few power lines aren't gonna dampen my spirits at 4:20 on a Friday.
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Danny G
climber
Squamish, BC
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Mar 10, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
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Anyone want to get out climbing tomorrow?
Saturday was a gorgeous day. Here is a photo of an anonymous climber on Sunblessed. That second pitch is so great.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 10, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
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There's active logging going on at the base of my localest crag so I went for a hike to another one yesterday. Two and a bit hour bushwack approach. Nice rock. Have better things to lug a rack to. Nice views.
Unclimbed boulder waiting for suitor.
Views
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2013 - 12:10am PT
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Nice work boys!!! Git some!!!!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
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Sick!! Lets see... What kind of kerfuffle can I start to get some posts happening around here... Hmm well, I got half the staples pulled out of my back this morning.. Anyone pull any outta any rocks lately??
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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Mar 11, 2013 - 07:40pm PT
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Bag tossin......
it's a canadian thing, eh.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Mar 11, 2013 - 09:03pm PT
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Uhhhh, Aislinn... Yer gonna die?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2013 - 11:42pm PT
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Don't you tossers know that ain't cool man!! ;)
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 13, 2013 - 02:58am PT
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Trying to keep the Big Mike stoke going on here with some old climbing pics. I've never taken pictures while climbing in Squamish so was surprised to find these ones buried in a cabinet. I totally forgot about this event ever taking place,early Alzheimer's I guess. It was either Jim Brennan taking these pics or my New Zealand friend John McCallum in 1989 or 1990.
Rock shoe quiz, what are the shoes we are wearing?
Racking up beside my 1977 Dodge Aspen
Always loved being up here, feels like home.
Playing beat the clock on Perry's layback!
I never did own any Lycra, I found Zellers track pants far more stylish.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2013 - 03:01am PT
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Awwww so cool!!!!! Thanks Harry!! I love the old pics! Thanks to the photog too! (More than likely Jim since you guys used to roll together alot right??
I can't wait to get back up the grand!!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 13, 2013 - 03:37am PT
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Harry! Awesome!!
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Out_of_bounds
climber
Squamish/Revy
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Mar 13, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
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Hope everyone got out and enjoyed the Sun while it was around!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
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Sick pic OOB!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 13, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
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Cool dog, gooooooooobooooy!
Kieran, why the hatin'? what's wrong with Luke's anchors?? He melted down those shopping carts fair & square.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
LOL!! Think barley just forgot or is there a tree there or something??
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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Mar 13, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
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sure there are trees around mike.. it is squamish after all hehe
the thing i'm worried about is that the double chain links are misleading. A noob might be confused and believe the two chain links represent a redudant anchor system when in reality the staple is a single point of protection. If these staples are in fact breaking at 600lb's of force this would be catastrophic.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2013 - 03:59pm PT
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Ya! Hell ya! Two rings means good to go right!! Some horrible prank? I could just see some noobs top roping on it. Is it an easy climb? Where is it??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
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Hey I just noticed that you have two handles mr brownie/browniephoto!!
;) what up? Troll account? ;)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 13, 2013 - 04:18pm PT
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Brownie: the hand drill is in my work bench and there is bolts there too.. Stop whining and go get a forearm work out.
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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Mar 13, 2013 - 04:40pm PT
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challenge accepted.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 13, 2013 - 06:16pm PT
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I think a 600lb climber could have catastrophic forces on any anchor.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2013 - 06:45pm PT
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That's less that three times my weight. How far would I have to fall to exert 600lbs? We need Ed Hartouni in here. Paging Dr Hartouni!! ;)
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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Mar 13, 2013 - 08:11pm PT
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yea, that's why we keep yo momma off the ropes ryan haha
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2013 - 08:31pm PT
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LOL!! ;) hey now. Ryan's momma makes some damn fine ribs!!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 14, 2013 - 02:25am PT
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sorry, it's my monster workout night (for me) 2 hrs of gym crack climbing at Planet Granite Sunnyvale followed by 1.5 hrs of Vinyasa Flow yoga (which is doing great things for me...) so I'm toast right now...
Richard has the treatise:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1820554&msg=1820970#msg1820970
His recommended calculator:
http://jt512.dyndns.org/impactcalc
your weight? lets take 170 lbs
if the rope modulus is 14kN m/m
600lb force is 2.67 kN
that's a force factor of 0.15, so if you are out 100 ft and you fall a total of 15 ft you experience a 600lb force...
but I'm terrible at getting this right... especially late...
a 600lb climber falling the same distance feels a 6.91 kN force, the anchor a 13.8 kN force, which is getting up there into equipment failure mode.
If you're a Big Guy/Gal, you might not want to take a leader fall...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 14, 2013 - 02:41am PT
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Cool stuff Ed!
Hey, leave my momma outta this brownie or brownliephoto or whoever you are! I'll report you to the mods! What's next? A youtube video satire of my latest failures?!?!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2013 - 02:48am PT
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Hahahaha..., Ed, thank you!! I was actually just kidding about getting you to do the calculation since I never expected you to even see this!! So a 220lb climber like myself would definitely want to avoid a leader fall on a single staple.
I believe this is a single pitch climb which would eliminate a leader fall ever occurring on said anchor unless someone decided to pitch off with slack or something.
Is there a top rope situation that could theoretically pull said staple? Maybe a beginner belayer with a ton of slack out, and a climber my weight?
Please sir, only if you have the time and interest.
Thanks again!
Edit sounds like even with a two staple anchor and a short fall factor two situation I could generate enough force to blow said anchor. Good enough reason for me. Kill all staples!!!
Edit2 What's next? A youtube video satire of my latest failures?!?!
LMAOROF it's comedy hour over here!!! ;)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 14, 2013 - 03:15am PT
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The question is? Where did this 600lb figure come from?
I'm sure RBs anchors can deal with more than that, I remember someone telling me his passed brother was like an anchor engineer or something?
I wouldn't worry about it too much there boys- It's probably on top of some 10+ "classic featureless SB wasteland" anyways that only Kieran or Luke would climb:-) The route will probably get chopped, green or retroed in the next 2 yrs. maybe all 3. Nature has its own ways of dealing with RB routes. That said lets go tie a massive something to that thing with a chunk of static & throw it off! BTW Big Mike, often much more force in a slack TR fall than a soft leader fall so ur probably gonna die for sure TRn single staples but that's a debate for another thread! Have a good night!
Edit- here's a link about RBs bro, would be weird if he had the nickname "anchorman" in the engineering world &his bro is up here putting in dangerous hardware??
http://www.sbmasystems.com/page5.html
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2013 - 03:18am PT
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Ahhh the north walls... More!!
I miss the chief.. And the mountains!!!
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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Mar 14, 2013 - 04:14am PT
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i apologize for laughin at yer momma ryan..
but back to the other topic..
A single anything for an anchor cannot be defined as "safe", we do it with trees all the time and yea they're pretty friggin bomber but I do remember a story about a tree blowing over on the smoke bluff connection. The twist was that the belayer and his partner were attached to a similar specimen. Now, I won't just go and stop using trees because of this story. I have confidence in my judgement of a satisfactory belay tree and i'm sure the aforementioned party had the same feel for what was a bomber anchor. The evidence to support this being the survival of the two climbers. It's a different story when some fresh-out-of-the-gym-weekend-warrior comes up and starts clipping bolts until he/she finds himself at this anchor. She/he may not have the experience to recognize the yergonnadie factor, potentially putting themselves in a theoretical situation in which they would have to call SAR who would then direct them to the local taxi business who could take them the 3 blocks to the hospital. In fact, I do believe this topic has already been chewed to a cud and all i've done is blow off some post-work steam by act of reiterating an age old ethics issue...
good night
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 14, 2013 - 12:49pm PT
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No worries Kieran, you're fighting the good fight. I just like to know the facts, like how do you know these staples break at 600lbs?? Did someone legitimately pull test one in the lab or is this just the word on the street from those that compete with RB for FAs of all the ledgy 10+ slabs left in the bluffs? I'm no staples advocate as they are ugly & unconventional & generally get put in stupid places between classic cracks & bleached 1 star routes but besides the obvious "you're different, we don't like you" factor, what proof do we have of their safety???
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 14, 2013 - 03:24pm PT
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Just a thought - why not just place a regular bolt adjacent to the staple? You get your redundant anchor points and you dont risk botching the chop.
This is probably the best practice re: single staple anchors
Have a great trip Bruce!
Fvcker.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
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Ryan, I have no proof, I have always just known it wasn't standard practice.
This is good enough reason for me though.
Staples are what I use to hold papers together with. Grouting rebar into concrete is a practice that has been discredited for at least 25 years when it was involved in structural integrity concerning homes people live in.
Thanks for that Jim. I will happily take experienced construction advice over the unknown.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 16, 2013 - 12:29am PT
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Ha brownie. One of those two or guys in the blown-down tree story was me. Details tomorrow when I am not typing on this phone.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 16, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
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Haha nice vids boys! Cam Ungirth lol
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 16, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
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So about that tree belay. Story was in one of the Squamish threads Mighty Wanker deleted when he left ST in a huff.
He and I were climbing the Smoke Bluff Connection (Late 70s? Early 80s?). It was really windy, but otherwise a fine day for climbing. I led the first pitch (Mosquito), he led the second (Phlegmish Dance). When I got to his belay -- which was a small but solid-looking tree -- he was not entirely happy with life. He pointed to a similar tree, lying on the ground a few meters away, and said "It just blew over while I was sitting here."
No more tree belays for us that day.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
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Very nice vids boys!
Kieran yours are getting quite artistic indeed!
Ghost, funny story. Thanks ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2013 - 04:41am PT
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30 seconds of heaven!! Thanks Kieran!!!
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Mar 18, 2013 - 01:32am PT
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a 600lb climber falling the same distance feels a 6.91 kN force, the anchor a 13.8 kN force, which is getting up there into equipment failure mode.
Ed, I don't think i've ever met a 600lb climber, post picks please.
Last week, climbed a few routes at JT where the crux was protected by a RURP and the chossy start was protected by Knife Blades, thoroughly enjoyable! Sometimes spice is nice. ;-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2013 - 03:40pm PT
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Spice is nice. But single staple anchors are lame. How is jtree treating ya Rolfr? Sounds like you're getting lots in!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 22, 2013 - 08:19pm PT
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Mar 22, 2013 - 08:44pm PT
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Just bought my plane tickets for Squamish yesterday. PSYCHED!!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 22, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
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Good stuff Grippa. When r u showing up?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2013 - 01:33am PT
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Nice pic Ryan!! Did Kieran send that sucka??
Right on gripper!! You're gonna love squish! Hope you get some good weather!!
Anyone ever climb the beav and then move right on that horizontal and mantle out?? Looks cool! But hard!!
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Mar 23, 2013 - 02:15am PT
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Never enough time on the rock Big Mike, but I have rediscovered the fun of climbing slabs with the great old crew down here at JT.
Respect to Todd Gordon, Tucker Tech, strong man Kelly and the rest of the crew down here. Real local heroes! Ten's of thousands routes between them and they are not about chasing numbers, just having fun.
I hope your healing physically and mentally. Sent you a PM.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
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Thanks rolf! I got it and tried to reply but it bounced back. I sent i through
St. Hope you received it!!
I found a few bangers in the old camera roll..
What crack is Kyle climbing??
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 25, 2013 - 12:00am PT
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Izzat Fata Morgana/Mirage?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2013 - 12:20am PT
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Right area..
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Mar 25, 2013 - 10:48am PT
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BigMike we're flying into Seattle, and renting a car. We've got a friend who lives in Squamish that we may or may not stay with if the weather is bad. If it's nice we'll just stay at the base of the Grand, and maybe throw down on a nicer pad for the last night or 2 before leaving.
Plan is to be there from August 3rd-10th.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2013 - 11:34am PT
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Cool dude! Good dates. Typically right in the middle of our dry spell. You never know around here tho!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 25, 2013 - 11:59am PT
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Unreality. I cheated.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2013 - 01:46pm PT
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Ryand got it! How'd you cheat? Ask kyle? Or kieran? Guidebooks are allowed.
You and kyle climbing today??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2013 - 02:57pm PT
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I know you guys have been out climbing!! What's up? Help a brother out!!!
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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Mar 31, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
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ryanD on Pleasant Pheasant..
thanks perry!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
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Ya boys!!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 31, 2013 - 04:11pm PT
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Hey now, the crack on Mirage is shared with Unreality.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
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Ok points for both of you. Looked like you had fun on Diedre yesterday dru.
Did you link pitches? I love linking the two first corner pitches! So sweet and perfect for a 70m rope.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 31, 2013 - 05:28pm PT
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We took advantage of every stance and the lack of other parties to belay and have a picnic.
That rig is slicker'n whale snot by the way. Hard to believe I thought it was a cruiser solo once. Banana Peel is lightyears easier to 3rd class.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
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It probably was back then. It still is viewed as a mellow solo by many contemporary Squamish climbers. (Not me!) To think of it, it's probably on par with your standard valley route.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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i don't have a clue how to spin the photo the right way around
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nice Hamish, u hang the rope up for those guys or what?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Edit- note Canadian tuxedo on al.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Yup. Primo father-son outing followed by gelato in downtown squish!
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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As I was doing some research into why the Split pillar fell off last night Something caught my eye on the google page...
Now it's even easier to find info on yer favorite classic big wall granite monstrous monolith!!
thanks google!!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Hamish did you see the trip report by those two 16 year old Hamish start-ups down in the valley. Blows my mind.
Great outing with your son,good to see there's more than one kind of apron in your life now!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
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Cool hamish!! Good to see you getting the rug rats out!!
Anyone else seen that black helicopter from sky helicopter's landing on the chief and buzzing climbers?? Let's start taking pictures of these guys and post them up on facebook and send them to the rcmp. These guys need to respect park boundaries!!
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Driving back to BC, Squamish forcast rain all week. Joshua Tree Mid 80's F! WHAAAAAAA..........
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Transport Canada are the folks to call.
Any pics of them actually landing on the Chief?
I emailed Sky
Thank you for sending your concerns to our attention. SKY Helicopters prides itself
in creating safe flight adventures for its customers that adhere to federal and
local guidelines – at no time do we wish to put anyone in a compromised situation.
The event you are referring to was a free 3 hour flying event for members of our SKY
FLYZONE rewards club. We appreciate your feedback and can assure you we will take
your suggestions into consideration when formulating future flight plans in areas
which may be frequented by the rock climbing community.
Sincerely,
SKY Helicopters
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2013 - 01:55pm PT
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Nope. Not yet. I've seen it though. And if they keep pulling it. I'll get some!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
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After five weeks of hospital hell, I finally made it out to the bluffs with Kyle and Nina yesterday. I'm still not putting too many miles on, but i can walk pretty good on the crutches so i hobbled over to neat and clean with my cushion, and ate my lunch as the solo fest emsued..
I have no idea what this upper crack Kyle is on is...
Just another beautiful spring day at the bluffs.
Then the rest of the crew showed up
Kyle says "i think i can solo both cracks!"
Then some moss bouldering on a new?? route??
Monkey see, Monkey do...
And Ryan gave it a whirl.
Then James Bond showed up with his kid Mika, right about the time Nina got bored.
Apparently this is the new thing... Speed bouldering competitions on clean starts..
Ryan d on a little traversing rig..
Hey Kieran, you gonna boulder that thing??
Maybe..
Nope...
Monkey see, Monkey do again..
Kyle decided to play a little House Music
Then Ryan rigged up the cripple belay
Aislinn Merkel photo
Aislinn Merkel photo
Just another beautiful spring day at the smoke bluffs
Have i ever mentioned how much I LOVE CLIMBING!!!!!!!!!
:)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2013 - 01:14am PT
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Oops i forgot the kangaroo pic! Rolf bring some good weather back! Chase them clouds away!
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Need a couple months of rain to help Mike mend...
... this sunshine can't be a good thing.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Great to see you getting fresh air out with the gang and they were all willing to risk their ankles so you could have that cushy three pad sleep country combination for your belay. Sure looked comfortable. Nothing stops you from getting out!
Just wondering about that small pad that your head is on,is that for expert boulderers with really good aim?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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DOWN MIKE DOWN. BAD MIKE BAD.
Haha! You Bad.
No buddy does Ali Butt ohh Tami. It's a piece of poo. ;)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Cool photos Mike, i really love that shot of you belaying Kieran. There should be a fixed grigri there.
I think alliebootoe has new bolts.
edit- I forgot
Just wondering about that small pad that your head is on,is that for expert boulderers with really good aim?
So funny! lol
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2013 - 09:29am PT
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DOWN MIKE DOWN. BAD MIKE BAD.
Just trying out the locks Tami! I never left the ground!! ;)
Harry my pillow is my butt pad. It is extremely sensitive right now for some reason?? ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2013 - 11:47pm PT
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Ahh pet wall.. It'll be awhile b4 i get back there..
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Duz anybody do that slab above all that crap? The one called "Ali booto"???? THere were three garbage bolts on it BITD. I know c'os I placed 'em :-)
I rebolted your old route about ten or twelve years ago Tami. It's still pretty rare to see anyone on it, but I like the perversity of slab. There's actually a new anchor that's sprung up at the base of it to service the low-fifth-class cracks below that lead up to the slab. Kinda weird, but it gets traffic. Neat and Cool is very heavily used by those of us with little rug-munchers.
Kris
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2013 - 01:53am PT
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I was thinking of adding another bolt to that anchor just to the left of it so the rope would run better, instead of over that edge. I guess i should contact the smoke bluff committee?
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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I think we're talking about different anchors Mike. The route Ali Bhutto is the leftmost one on the upper slab. You climb the easy corner cracks on the lefthand low angle slab to get to it. I think you might be referring to the anchor on top of the three short cracks called Clean Starts.
If that anchor puts the rope over a nasty edge, you don't need anyone's permission to correct the problem.
K
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2013 - 02:28am PT
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Yes.. You are correct sir. I wanna do ali just for the heck of it...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2013 - 12:25am PT
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Yeah boi!! Sick pic!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
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Someone's gotta take pics of lurker Kyle without u around Mike!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2013 - 12:39am PT
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Damn. To think that kid wouldn't lead trad for 8 years. He's killing it!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2013 - 01:05am PT
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Yup. Perfect lighting. I'd say you planned it, but i know that kyle don't wait for no photographers..
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
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Damn. To think that kid wouldn't lead trad for 8 years. He's killing it!!
All bolts on that rig Mikey, you know what they say- once a sport climber.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2013 - 01:26am PT
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Was it always so?? Hmm i'm slippin in here!
What is this rig Luke is on?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
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Yeah Mike, the right stuff is the shortened version of the now obscure- the wrong stuff which starts on the challenger, used to be able to place an optional nut in the middle of right stuff but there was a new bolt there yesterday.
What's that crack Luke's on? The one right of alley bhutoe, don't know the name but I like that photo, cool clouds!
Did u name Ali Butto Tami? What's that about? It's a funny name.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
|
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Did they die naturally or were the caught rap bolting by the kragkop?
Snicker
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2013 - 12:25am PT
|
Looky here what i came across on youtube!!!!!!
It's our own grand wall...
I cried when i first saw the pillar.
I really want to get back there.
And i'm gonna make that happen.
What do you think those edits on the pillar are all about? ;)
[Click to View YouTube Video]
I can't wait to get back there!!!
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
|
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Luke would be just about to top out on Neat and Clean. Beautiful shot of that stormy sky!
K
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2013 - 12:55am PT
|
Thanks kris! It was a sick day!
When i getting all my metal bling?
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
|
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MEC estimated 8 weeks till delivery, so I would expect within the next week or two.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
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BigMike; thanks for posting the Split Pillar video. I've hated go-pro cams in the past but am now reconsidering. As said above, that was sick. Hope you're healing up.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2013 - 01:34am PT
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Darwin! Imagine that but with cameras set up at various vantage points?? Very sick!!
I'm doing good! I want to go climbing as soon as i get the ok!
Edit duh: Kris- sweet! Can't wait to play with it! I gotta build an anchor in the living room so Sadra can get more comfortabld with it.
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MH2
climber
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Another thanks for the Grand Wall vid. You have to wait a while (about 28 minutes) for the humour toward the end, but it was worth it. And as a local I would like to thank those guys for making the Split Pillar into a climb the size of a planet.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2013 - 05:33pm PT
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The pillar is huge!!! I love it!!! I would just climb it all day if i could!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2013 - 06:31pm PT
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Should i post that vid in it's own thread so it doesn't get lost in this Squamish tome?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nothing gets lost here Mike:-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
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True, but it becomes more difficult to find ;) i was thinking for the cali types who don't frequent this thread.
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perswig
climber
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That Grand Wall vid had me fighting off pump and bile.
Those kiwi's sure have dirty mouths, eh?
Dale
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Welcome home Bruce! Looks like an all time trip, good for you man, i hope u had a blast. Awesome photos too! Where's the full TR?
Did u say bouldering?!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2013 - 05:29pm PT
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Ya buddy!! Sick!! Looks like ya had fun out
There!!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Someone completely unrelated to ST posted this video on the VRGC site so I had a look and lo and behold look who it is! Hope you don't mind me posting this here.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
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Hahahahaha!! Lol!
Lurker Kyle! What site was it posted on Harry?
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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So BK, now that you have seen that staples are quite common abroad, I dont even think they use anything else in Spain, what do you think about them being in use here?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 03:56pm PT
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Kyle says it's not him. Weird. He's got a doppleganger!
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MH2
climber
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Maybe the 2 Kyles will meet the 2 Véroniques.
Maybe that is too obscure.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
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Kyle talked to Robin yesterday about staples. This was his reply:
we talked a fair bit on staples and his thorough testing on them. He also explained how they are actually much safer than most other bolts, because bolts can pop out if the rock inside deteriorates. With the glue ins, water can not penatrate the epoxy.
A good example was the route we were climbing right beside him: catscan. The bolts were rusty and had probably compromised the rock that we could not see. He says people use silicone or something to keep water out nowadays, but you can't tell from looking.
Our rock here is much stronger than most other places, so bolts hold very well. Most other places in Europe use staples not for there cheapness but because of the water/ intrusion factor.
Another reason he uses his systems is simply because people were stealing his hardware straight off the rock in certain places.
I asked him about how long the glue lasts and he said they told him 50 years. He doubts that, but is sure it will last a long time.
About the removal with a crowbar; that's a slot of leverage power which he figures is probably exerting around 4000 pounds to remove them with an outwards jerk. The staples are drilled two and a half inches deep at a downwards angle, so in a lead fall scenario you couldn't mimic an outwards torque.
Robin if you are reading this, thank you for your interest in my health. It means a lot. Best wishes to you also sir!
Mh2, Veroniques joke definetly went right over my head.. ;)
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Thanks Mike
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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How many of those staples are three sigma tested? What's the variation in strength with quality control?
How about those stupid chiseled-out keyhole nut placements in blank rock?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 10, 2013 - 01:09am PT
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I thought this was funny...
Robin Barley.
I find it best, and considerably less frustrating, to see Robin less as a climber or developer of routes and more of a force of nature. You can get upset all you want at the approaching storm, shake your fist at the clouds, even yell at the rain. But the storm -like Barely- couldn't care less what you think and will not be stopped. So like the storm, it's best to just sit back, watch in wild wonder then go out and pick up the pieces after the storm has passed.
Aaron.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2013 - 01:18am PT
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How many of those staples are three sigma tested? What's the variation in strength with quality control?
Dunno. Don't think they have a stamp on em.. ;)
How about those stupid chiseled-out keyhole nut placements in blank rock?
That's just wrong. Where??
On a lighter note, i booked a campsite for Facelift. So......
Who's comin with me man!!
Besides brownie i hope.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 10, 2013 - 01:22am PT
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Cool video Harry thanks for posting, we call that first problem pinch problem tho, stunt dbl is the infamous Cortez.
Bruce, I'm proud of anyone who goes to font. That place is a lifetime of type 1 fun, just follow the arrows.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Apr 10, 2013 - 03:17pm PT
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A friend of mine, perhaps hoping to retire early, is reluctantly offering this rare and valuable piece of Canadiana for sale. Something to own and treasure for a while, and then sell later to feather your own retirement nest.
Condition:
.....Some yellowing, otherwise good [fine?]
.....Content now 33 years out of date.
.....Name of previous owner [Larry Ostrander] inside front cover.
Those living in the Vancouver area may be able to arrange a signature from the maestro himself. A similar copy is listed for $35- plus postage $10- by Chessler.
PM me. or post offers on this site. When I get your cheque, I will mail the book, with no charge for postage. Such a deal. :) :)
EDIT In case you wondered, the complete guide is for sale, not just the front cover.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 10, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
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Naming the climb 14 shutouts in Skaha was Dean's way of paying tribute to Larry. Apparently he had a streak of 14 shutouts in a row playing hockey. I don't know what league.
My memory of Larry was at some of Dean Hart's parties at Ontario/25th. Between the giants of Larry,Dean,Randy,Ed and Andrew Spat I felt like I was 5'3" You would of fit in well Mike.
Larry did alot of climbing in the rockies also. Another missed soul.
Here is one of the cliffs Larry developed near Calgary.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Apr 10, 2013 - 07:04pm PT
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Tami, I am not the owner. It belongs to someone in Rossland, but hopefully not for much longer.
That's one impressive crag.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2013 - 11:47pm PT
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My memory of Larry was at some of Dean Hart's parties at Ontario/25th. Between the giants of Larry,Dean,Randy,Ed and Andrew Spat I felt like I was 5'3" You would of fit in well Mike.
Lol.. Sounds like fun. ;)
Nice work on the video Kieran! Thanks! Jim is right, your presentation is improving steadily!
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Apr 11, 2013 - 12:15am PT
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A friend of mine, perhaps hoping to retire early, is reluctantly offering this rare and valuable piece of Canadiana for sale. Something to own and treasure for a while, and then sell later to feather your own retirement nest.
I'll offer a hundred bucks, fifty to your buddy and fifty to The Big Mike Fund" . Let the bidding begin with the same challenge!
Andres will you sign it and increase the value?
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Apr 11, 2013 - 12:26am PT
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Jim.
Great post of the White Lunch! Is anyone else old enough to rember that place and the, super modern sandwich vending machines. Little glass revolving boxes with you choice of classic meals.
My favorite memory, sliced turkey, stuffing and gravy on white wonder bread with gravy. Umm Umm Umm, it didn't get much better for a five year old.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 11, 2013 - 01:07am PT
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Killer video Kieran & awesome day. I don't even remember you filming except at the summit. That's how u catch the vibe i guess. Classic stuff. Here's one from earlier that day.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Apr 11, 2013 - 01:47am PT
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Rolf
That's an amazing offer. Sadly Anders does not live here anymore, and he did not leave a forwarding address.
I am sure that MH would be very happy to sign it. You can have it for $50- if you are serious. $25- to the seller, and $25- to Big Mike. $100- is way too generous.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Apr 11, 2013 - 01:59am PT
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I'm sure the Mighty Hiker will make a reappearence for a good cause. Big Larry's copy just ads value to the price.
And speaking of Big Larrys does anyone have any Larry Kemp signed memorabilia from Index to throw into the pot.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2013 - 02:10am PT
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Anders does lurk here often. I will ask him personally if you would like rolf. I have the power. Thank you for the offer!
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Apr 11, 2013 - 02:26am PT
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So what is the best / most up to date guide book for Squamish?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2013 - 03:12am PT
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Funny you should ask Labrat. The situation in Squamish is shockingly similar to Yosemite in that the only guidebook that is actually still in print is Squamish Select.
http://www.quickdrawpublications.com/Squamish%20Select.html
It is an excelent book, and covers a lot of the climbing in Squamish, but as it is a select, it doesn't have all the routes.
The most recent full guidebook "A climber's guide to squamish" by kevin mclane has been out of print for awhile now but you may be able to find a copy on ebay. Rumor has it, he is working on a new one, but who knows when that will actually make it to print.
Care to comment Kevin? I've seen you post here before. Not on this thread tho..
For new stuff, www.squamishclimbing.com is an excellent resource.
Good luck and let us know if you come up this way labrat!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 11, 2013 - 03:44am PT
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RyanD, that was not Cortez in the vid. He don't look or climb like that.
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perswig
climber
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Apr 11, 2013 - 08:42am PT
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Brownie, those videos are very good.
Thanks for continuing to share.
Dale
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2013 - 11:39am PT
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Bump for Kieran
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2013 - 11:27am PT
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So does rolf take the classic Anders guide? I will be happy to contact anders. Maybe you could both stop by the hospital when you get it? Lemme know.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Apr 12, 2013 - 11:44am PT
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I'm working on the transaction with Hamie, Coming down to Van this weekend. I've got my old email active again. Send me your location.
Off for another day of obsessive compulsive, moss scrubbing to create a few more obscure routes in Skaha.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2013 - 11:55am PT
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I'm in whistler this weekend... Hmm.. Send me an email, i can forward it to anders for you..
So jealous! I wanna go to skaha!! ;)
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Apr 12, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
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Thanks for the book info and being friendly Big Mike! If I make it up I'll let you and Anders know.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Apr 13, 2013 - 10:05pm PT
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Attention: Esteemed Friends From the Far North (hey Hosers!)
There is a thead here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2114171/Comments-Needed-by-4-18-on-the-Future-of-the-Valley-and-C4
requesting that comments be sent from climbers to the Park Service regarding the Merced River Plan. These comments are important to the future of Yosemite National Park.
I know you cherish the Park as much as any of us south of the border and you don’t need to be a citizen to comment.
It would be terrible blow to US pride if more Canadians submitted comments than natives.
Sorry for the interruption. Carry on.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2013 - 01:39am PT
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You're welcome Labrat!
Yes. We should submit comments. I tried to read the park plan the other day, but got lost in all the links.
I'll try again.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2013 - 11:53am PT
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I filed my comments, anyone else?
Has no one been out climbing lately?? ;)
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bakesale
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 16, 2013 - 01:15pm PT
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Yep, I spent the weekend climbing Chek but not really any great photos or stories.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2013 - 02:18pm PT
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Thanks bakesale! I wish i could go to chek!! Soon.. Soon..
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 21, 2013 - 10:48pm PT
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Nice one bakesale. I had some fun @ chek the other day too.
This time of day..........
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markr
Trad climber
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Apr 22, 2013 - 02:42am PT
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A few photos from a nice day in March at the Lower Malemute.
Was my first day out there. Amazing. It's like the base of the Grand as far as density excellent moderates. Got on Clean Crack (no photos), must be the most beautiful crack I've climbed in Squish.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Apr 23, 2013 - 01:19am PT
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Too late G, that book sold and gone.
Still not too late to bid on a first ascent in Skaha, primed and bolted.
One First Ascent of a new route in Skaha. Scrubbed, bolted and ready to go. I had removed the first three hangers and intended to send it when the weather improved.
Eight bolts long; Climb a short face to a discontinuous hand crack, through jugs over a roof, face climbing to a flaring off hands finish. Probably around 5.11A.
Locals think it's harder because they can't jam at the crux.
Current bid $250.00
Link Fundraiser for Big Mike http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2087509&tn=300
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
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Sunday afternoon ended up being a beautiful day.
Sandra and I showed up to the crag to find Ryan d bouldering up a storm, while still maintaining the fun aspect.
Relic was doing his physio excersises while Ryan shoe'd up
Ryan trying the lower crux
Ryand getting all highball on an unknown previously bolted/chopped problem
Stepping up to the upper crux.
He sent thank god!
Anders showed up and hung out with us.
He passed on Larry O's guide which was ever so kindly purchased for me by Rolf
Anders Ourom Photo
Relic peruses the Anders special while Howser hopes from him to throw the stick!!
(while hecking it a little bit ) :)
Khyber is such a ham...
Sandra Topolay photo
Heather wanted a go on Kangaroo so Kyle ropegunned it... sorta.. ;)
Anders Ourom Photo
Kangaroo Pano
Sandra and I with the world's largest lap dog, Khyber
Anders Ourom Photo
Sandra decided to give Kangaroo a go and scrapped her way up it!!
Anders Ourom photo
I was very proud of her!!
Just another beautiful afternoon at the bluffs! Thanks guys!
we had tasty indian food after!
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MH2
climber
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Apr 23, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
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Yeah! I get that beautiful afternoon feeling from those photos.
I tried leading that boulder problem when it was bolted, and a guy coming past told me he had put it up. He seemed to have a lot of energy, so maybe that explains it. I don't remember if his mini-route was too hard or not safe/too hard to clip. I didn't finish. You gotta be careful when the ground is that close. And from where Ryan got to, it isn't even that close, but I guess the pad and spotter count for something.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 23, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
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Nice outing Mike and Sandra. Looks warm. Did Relic not like his beer?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2013 - 04:15pm PT
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Mh2- i dunno, i was pretty nervous when he was sussing those moves. It was pretty much onsight too although he fell off the bottom crux once. I know a fall from that height wouldn't have been pretty..
Harry, no he enjoyed his pops, i think yhat was just his workout face ;)
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MH2
climber
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Apr 23, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
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I was nervous watching Robert way above the bolt on this climb, Monday. It was onsight, too, in every sense except that he had done it once before, but he didn't seem to realize that he should layback and he went left side in, manly style. Up to where he is in the photo, that is.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2013 - 12:43am PT
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Skulduggery!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 24, 2013 - 12:55am PT
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Good stuff Mike & MH2! Good to see u the other day Mike! Good to meet u too lurker Anders, your guidebook is great, very cool.
Andy, when was that thing bolted?
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MH2
climber
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Apr 24, 2013 - 01:56am PT
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There has always been a bolt there. Unless you mean that boulder problem, not Skullduggery. For the boulder problem, it got its bolts just a few years ago, and lost them a year or two later.
That is one hard hairy highball. And excellent photos of it.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2013 - 02:23am PT
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Thanks Andy. Thanks also to mr D for having the balls to send it!!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 24, 2013 - 04:12am PT
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Beauty weather we're havin' eh!
Sunday was rad, psyked to see Big Mike out there again and to see Sandra crush kangaroo corner; her first 5.11!
The other night Aislinn and I set out a summit push after work. We had our sights seton the south peak of the Stewamus Chief and it was prearranged Aislinn was to be the rope gun to Fred Becky's ultra-timeless Squamish Buttress.
After she navigated us to the top of the apron via rambles-bpeel with 30m between us, she was feelin warmed up. When we arrived at the toe of the buttress she figured she'd keep leading and did 2 short pitches got us to the goods.
Upon casting her eyes upon the money pitch for the first time she decided she wanted to step to her first five ten fissure, ONSIGHT!
Up she went, styling the crack transfer, protecting her self from hitting the deck but spacing out her pro as she got higher, and she was looking super solid . When she got to the fingery bit she doubled up and went for it.
Quite a ways above her gear and well into the crux the rains starts as she try's to plug in a blue alien, I thought she said clipping but she said whipping and down she came with a ln extra armload of slack to boot.
Frustrated by my mediocre belay she insisted on coming down and getting me to finish the last 10 feet to the belay. After I finished the pitch she followed it with ease then she took over the lead right to the summit.
Another fine evening jaunt...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
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Nice telling Luke! You should get Ais to post up some of those rad pics she took that night!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 24, 2013 - 11:25pm PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2013 - 11:27pm PT
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Love it!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 24, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
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Nice Kieran! Right wing???
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MH2
climber
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Apr 25, 2013 - 12:12am PT
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The RyanD photo of Squamish, looking dry and about as evenly lit as you can ask for, and Goat Ridge behind it still under snow, is good!
Here is Victor Ting taking his own approach to the flake finish on Right Wing.
(a repost)
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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Apr 25, 2013 - 12:16am PT
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i bet that dude had a #5
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2013 - 12:40am PT
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You guys did right wing???? Dammit!! Nice work!! So jealous!!!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 25, 2013 - 01:25am PT
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Great photos Ryan, Kieran and Andy! Keep them coming!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2013 - 01:40am PT
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Like one red paper clip? ;)
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 25, 2013 - 03:01am PT
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Pretty exciting finish that last pitch of Right Wing. Steeep! And a little bit of surpize wideness.
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MH2
climber
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Apr 25, 2013 - 10:50am PT
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The picture of Victor is from ? years ago and we had come up Godforsaken Land.
How did Right Wing get put to the Left of Godforsaken Land? Doesn't fit politically speaking, but until Bruce brought it up I thought Right Wing was a plane or bird reference.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2013 - 09:28pm PT
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Heads up for any aspiring trad climbers looking to get some gear or anyone looking to expand their rack on the cheap.
I just stopped by Escape Route in Squamish on my way home from rehab, and the guy was pricing lots of brand new rock empire units at around 29.99 a piece. These cams are the exact same design as technical friends, heck they probably ripped the design off, now that the patents on those units is out.
If they are the same (which it looks like they are) these are excellent units. They don't have the same range as comparable c4's, but at half the price, how can you complain?
I know some of you hate friends because they don't have the same range and it requires more units to climb with them, but in my experience, you need doubles of most bd cams too which probably ends up being just as heavy, and for a dirtbag trying to build his/her rack on the cheap, this is a great option!
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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Apr 26, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
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I tried to be trad, but I'm just a weenie..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
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Lol!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 26, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
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Yes Brownie, true. But wrong thread.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2013 - 10:54pm PT
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I heard people went climbing recently.. Where are the stories?? ;)
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 27, 2013 - 12:00am PT
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Yeah, inquiring minds on the sidelines like me need our fix of armchair action!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2013 - 12:10am PT
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My sources tell me we might see something new soon ;)
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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Apr 27, 2013 - 06:07pm PT
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On monday I got off work early and hitch hiked back to Squamish to see the doc about the fluorescent green boogers in my nose. That morning Luke and I had made a plan to get on the Grand Wall since I didn't have to work at the brew pub that night so after my appointment I biked up to the Cormier residence to rack up. Luke lead the first pitch of Apron Strings and then I followed up.
I started climbing and when I reached the 2nd bolt of Mercy Me I placed a Wildcountry Ropeman as a fall-inhibitor and then continued onwards. The reachy step before the anchor of Mercy Me was soaked so I clipped the bolt and made the move, the rope drag was horrendous though and I realized I shouldn't have clipped so many bolts on Mercy Me if I wanted to make it to the base of the Pillar, I shouted to Luke and set up belay bringing him up and then flipped the rope before setting off again. We reached the Pillar and Luke continued climbing smoothly up the jams to gain the belay.
I packed up the anchor and was about to begin climbing when my phone rang; an unknown number was on the screen, so I answered it with suspicion.
"Hello?" I said,
I listened to my chef asking me if I was coming in tonight and looked up at Luke and then over my shoulder at the tiny light of the Brutal Pub.
"I never work mondays! and well; I'm in a bit of a situation, do you need me to come in?"
"Yes", Chef replied.
"Alright, see you in a few!" I responded before stuffing the phone in my pocket and climbing up to join Luke and tell him the good news. He laughed and I shrugged and we focused on the task at hand.
I grabbed the remainder of the gear and scrambled up the sword and then pumped through the bolt ladder to the chains before Perry's. Luke took over the lead and started clipping bolts before peeling off and taking a screamer, I followed him to the flats where we flipped the rope so Luke could lead again and give me a go at the Sale Flake. I spotted the gear from below but due to a mix of fatigue and not wanting to fall I took on a cam only to realize a good rest was one move away. I plugged in a #1 camalot and pulled over the flake and monkeyed to the top.
We simuled bellygood and then ran down the trail to the car and my impending shift in the dishpit. We started climbing at 4:45 and I was at work at 9, a massive pile of dirty dishes waiting for me. I was done the dishes and home just after midnight to catch a quick nap before getting up 6 hours later to go back to West Van to get some more work done. After the day of painting we arrived back in Squamish and I headed to the highway and began hitch hiking to Whistler for an event a group of buddies had organized. My friend Brad picked me up enroute from Vancouver going straight to the skatepark(where I happened to be headed as well) and we arrived to coolers full of brewskies and a DJ blasting tunes and a multitude of mountain folk partying in the sun.
The next morning I woke up face down and struggling to breath. The couch cushions we're suffocating me and the twisted tentacles of the blanket(which had comforted me so much as I drifted off) were pinning me down in a full nelson. I struggled and rolled; landing hard on the floor, The blanket was under me now and it didn't stand a chance as I swiftly tucked and spun, slipping from it's grip to stand victorious over it's lifeless form. The blood rushed from my head and I nearly fainted from the dizzying effects of standing up too fast. The pounding of my pulse in the top of my brain reminded me of the debauchery of the night before and I moaned but only a scratchy whisper of noise could escape through the tobacco scorched pathway of my throat. I called the kid to see how work was going and he mentioned a late return from West Van, the thought of hitch hiking to Van from Whistler and then back to Squam brought the taste of bile to my mouth and I politely mentioned I was too big a weenie to pull it off. Before he hung up Cormier told me to go climbing. My booze addled brain's connective neurons were oozing information as if transferring impulses through sludge but the word climbing somehow lit a spark and I fumbled through my phone to find my friend Kyle's number. He was eager and we made plans to meet in creekside to head south for the granite of Squamish. I hopped on my skateboard and pushed as fast as I could to the closest caffeine dispensary where I buried my face in a plate of eggs and veggies and desperately slugged back Xpresso shots(the X is for Xtreme) until Kyle showed up. With the new found energy I had acquired I suggested a multi-pitch and with no hesitation Kyle mentioned The Right Wing. I have never climbed on the Squaw and had been keen to get on the Chief's little Sister so I said "Hell Yes!"
We headed off at noon from the car and made it to the base shortly after. A perfect finger and hand crack split the low angle black slab that spread out before us, to the right a steeper wall with zig-zagging cracks and flowing bulges erupted out of the forest floor, and above the headwall reared up mimicking a tidal wave's curl and tongue just before it rolls over to crash on the beach. Kyle started up the crack while I smoked cigarettes back to back trying to ward off the throngs of spring mosquitos. The rope wandered up and came tight at my waste so I scrambled a bit to let Kyle reach the anchor and then gained a stance where I waited, listening for "on belay" and drooling over the endless jams and locks that lead up to Kyle at the belay. The next pitch was streaked with seepage but the edges and crimps looked dry so I started clipping bolts and working my way up, a bouldery sequence spat me off on my first go but a slight tweak of the footwork allowed me passage, only to shut me down a few moves higher. A closer look and a moment later I grabbed the top and mantled onto "Political Ledge". Kyle followed clean finding a sequence that avoided the wet foothold I used; he joined me at the ledge looking up at the "Filibuster" corner, jaw agape.
The first 8 meters were drenched although small islands of dry rock looked as if they would allow upward progress to gain the layback. After a moment of silent contemplation Kyle looked at me and said he would go for it.
He moved through the wet section smooth and careful and arrived at the stance without a hitch. He stuffed gear deep in the gaping crack behind loose rock before wriggling himself back out and eyeing out the moves ahead. The corner is wide here, too awkward to chimney but manageable to layback. He powered through 15 feet until a crack appeared on the left face of the corner where he slotted in a cam and continued to pull upwards to what he thought was a jug; the jug was an illusion and his hopes looked grim as he fumbled for a piece to stuff in the crack, he clipped the rope and continued clawing at the corner but after a handful of moves peeled off with a shout and came flying back down until the rope came tight. He pulled back to his piece and took off once again, placing gear and smearing upwards to reach the midway belay.
I scrambled up the wet moves to where the corner widens and realised the problem, although the feet were dry(albite shiny with a trippy lichen) the corner was seeping a thin stream of water along it's edge. I pulled out of the chimney and began laybacking, each hand hold wet but gritty enough to hold onto and I took my time placing the gear back on my harness to get a feel for the climbing. I arrived at the belay with soaked hands and a smile on my face and asked for the gear and gave Kyle props for making it up despite the seepage.
The next pitch looked spectacular. I clipped gear into my harness and unclipped from the belay to work my body into the crack and chimney to a bolt. A few moves gained a decent foothold where I plugged a handsized cam into the back of the corner and then jammed my way up to where the corner slams shut and small finger slots allow one to pull over a bulge which leads to more thin laybacking where I found another wet streak coming out of some sloppy finger locks. The wet streak was manageable although tricky without secure hand holds, luckily the slabby feet proved themselves to be sticky and my feet could pad around the streak. The next section was where the battle really began, the effort of pulling on my arms forced me to fully commit my weight to edges or smears which I helplessly slumped onto panting and placing gear. The moves felt endless, the rock passed under my feet in a blur of white on my left and black on my right and my eyes followed the contours of the rock to guide my feet. The sun had poked around the shoulder of the wing and it was glaring my view of the anchor but spreading long shadows over the foot holds unlocking some of the puzzle. The corner widens here, arching away from the slabs until one must rock away from the security of the layback and transfer to a few friction moves to a jug and the chains. I hollered to Kyle that I was secure and collapsed into my harness battle weary and happy. I let Kyle know I would be a second so I could drink some water and take a hit from the roach in my pocket.
Valleycliff sprawled below my perch; the little smoke bluffs poked out of toy trees, while miniature machines tore open the earth to make way for new toy houses on the hillside. For the common "white collar recreationalist" the signs might say. I yelled down to Kyle that he was on belay and he responded to alert me he was climbing.
I pulled up rope while soaking in the new perspective and spotted the brown backdoor of my basement suite where I had sat looking up at the line we now found ourselves climbing. Kyle reached the belay and we both laughed at how tired we were and looked around at our surroundings and the last pitch guarding the top out.
Our plan was to top out on the Squaw and then traverse west to the base of Sunblessed to have a super rad link up day so I had suggested we leave the #5 and send the 10c variation for the last pitch so we could hike light and Kyle had agreed with me. A fixed pin protects the opening moves on the 10c and Kyle clipped it, stemming upwards to find the moves but a threatening barn door caused him to reconsider his options. "I'm taking the 10d" he yelled down to me. I asked if he remembered that we did not bring a #5 and he said he did and with that he set off up the steep hand crack to his left. He grabbed a root and then mantled onto a good foothold allow a rest and a chance to stuff the #4 in and look at the giant beak of granite above. A foot wide and 10 feet long with nearly a foot of air between it and the rest of the cliff it juts out of the corner agressively. Kyle went for it, leading out left past his #4 into the undercling where he put a foot high and tried to go for the top of the flake but toppled off. I had fed out slack to make sure he wasn't sucked back into the corner to hard and despite the fall being quite large the impact was not excessive. He pulled back to his highpoint and scoped his line before committing once again; underclinging back to the good foot hold he swapped feet and then reached for the top once more. The last fall had left a scar though and Kyle found himself frozen on the crux gripped by images of the whipper. "Falling!" he shouted as he turned to meet the corner, slamming into the rock. I winced at the impact and yelled up to make sure Kyle was ok and he weakly responded that he wasn't hurt but felt like he was going to throw up. I lowered him back down to the belay and he clipped to the station and leaned against the rock catching his breath. I looked up at the pitch and it's threatening overhang and wild expando beak and I began processing how I would get us off of this rock.
We hung out and talked and let the electric buzz of adrenaline fade and then Kyle threw me on belay and I made my way up to the #4. From the belay it looked like I could reach the #4 and then downclimb while cleaning the gear to allow a pendulum into the 10c variation out right but I realized very soon that this would be impossible. With that I repositioned the cam and asked Kyle to keep some tension on the rope so I could traverse left to some crimps I had spotted just below and behind the bottom of the beak. The tension helped me control the risk of a huge fall and I walked my hands along the edges till I found a high foot to boost up and grab the top, quickly mantling and throwing my left leg into the security of the flake.
Looking back down I realized why the #5 was so important, a fall from where I was would end up in a splatter of brownie on the white wall of the Right Wing. I shimmied up the flake straddling it while a battle went on in my mind between the overhanging walls barndoor feel and the fact that I had my whole leg in the rock. Moments of security interrupted by flashes of fear and exposure accompanied my inching progress up the steepening offwidth until I reached a smaller beak of rock that barred my exit. I stuffed a cam on either side of the rock and equalized them so nothing could expand and shift and then with the last reserves of energy pulled up on the chock stone and began wriggling my way on top of it but I felt my strength dwindling. The gear spooked me and I knew I did not want to fall here so I down climbed and grabbed a sling from around my shoulders, slinging the horn and pulling up to jam my foot through it, a few wriggly moves and I had mounted the flake and squeezed into the opening above. I stared at the anchors in front of my face and clipped myself in before crawling to flat ground and collapsing, ecstatic.
Kyle followed up and reached the top looking spent and we high fived and smiled at the battle we had just barely survived.
A true classic of Squamish climbing, the Right Wing provides a challenge that is likely unmatched for climbs of the grade. A burlfest that will leave you satisfied and breathless and happy as can be. The finger crack on the right is the top of the 10c finger variation.
We drank the last of our water and munched on a granola bar and sat back to watch the blue sky day unfold before us. A big beautiful Raven soared from below and gave us a questioning look as it floated just over our heads before circling and diving and swooping away into the expanse of the Howe Sound.
I looked at Kyle and half-jokingly asked if he would still be into walking over to Sunblessed but I new he was pooped and he politely declined so we began the descent to the car and the sandwich we had left behind.
Thursday after work I took a friend up the chief for her first time via the rambles-banana peel-buttface connection and we got to check out the "Pink" moon(named after a flower that marks the beginning of spring) before descending headlamp-less back to the ground. The valley behind the chief was filled with warm and pleasant air and the glimmers of moonlight allowed us to find the trail without much effort as we stumbled down, down, down.
Spring has sprung.. go get some!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 27, 2013 - 07:02pm PT
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My palms are sweaty after that well told adventure.I've never climbed that route,a nice wide unprotected offwidth always brings out the demons in me.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2013 - 07:30pm PT
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Yeeeee ha!!! Killing it boys!! Very nice to see!! I still can't believe you went and hit it up so early!! Radical!!!
Your prose is ever improving Kieran! So cool to see!! Keep at it buddy!
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4tomic
Big Wall climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 27, 2013 - 08:02pm PT
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I gave White Lightning a shot yesterday. We hadn't climbed any slab this season, so it was a bit of a wake-up call. To get to the base of Diedre we onsighted Mickey Mouse, which proved to be a good warm up with lots of bolts, though my ankles and calfs were already complaining by the time I finished that lead.. At the base of WL, we weren't sure about the correct line for the 5.9 (we didn't bother to bring the guidebook). For the first pitch we went to the bolt in the moss and then up to the belay station by the block to the right of Diedre. The line was really dirty and mossy, and I think the correct line is actually quite a bit to the right (can someone confirm this?).
I took the first attempt at the 10b pitch. I went directly up from the belay and onto the bulge just under the roof, it got palm sweaty technical there. I had a fairly good hand (albeit sweaty) and was working my left foot up to a solid nub, but a crystal broke under my right foot sending me tumbling down past the belay station. It was about a 70 ft fall despite my belayer pulling in a few handfuls of rope. Needless to say, I got a few bruises and some respectable road rash in several unusual places.
My partner then attempted the 10b by going up and then moving slightly right (under a bush growing from the roof and a small horizontal crack). He made a placement with a .3 cam (BD), before making the final few moves to the roof. I recommend his line.
He linked the 10b and 10c. We did get a bit of rope drag doing this, might have been good to add a long draw in.
We finished up with the Buttress.
A great and intense climb. Despite the blood I left all over my shoes and rope (and the wall), I will definitely be trying it again. I guess I could have used some more warming up this season before attempting it, but I kind of enjoyed doing it with all the discomfort of being rusty and all my winter fat.
Mad props to all you insane people who did it before there were any bolts. It might only be 10c, but good god it's thin.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 27, 2013 - 08:39pm PT
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What a good way to start the work day, awesome photos & stories on my favorite thread.
Kieran, killer report man! Thanks for takin the time to post it up, u should consider posting the it as its own TR? im sure the rest of the taco would appreciate it. Looks awesome up there, I've never been on the right wing but will definitely be hitting it soon, soon as its July- rumor has it that those 2 corner pitches can be linked into the baddest assed 5.10 pitch in town.
4tomic, good stuff there getting on white lightning. That is an awesome route, as for ur ? About the 5.9 pitch I think when we did it I climbed from the base of the first dihedral pitch of diedre out a bit to the right then straight up to the belay, no bolts. It was exciting. I do remember my partner putting a red camalot in the overlap as well.
Edit- 4tomic, just saw ur pic, yikes!! Sounded like a good ride. Did u run, slide, or tumble? Whoooooooah man!
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4tomic
Big Wall climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 27, 2013 - 08:51pm PT
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@RyanD : Thanks for the info. I saw the line you are talking about (i.e. the cleanest most direct line). I'll be sure to go for it next time.
edit - As for the fall, I spun around and slid. At the belay station I kind of bounced myself over the ledge so I wouldn't risk a broken ankle. I was moving slow enough that I was able to put one hand on our anchor but I didn't grip down because I thought it'd be a better idea to just ride out the full fall. As I fell past the belay station, I also remember realizing that it was the half-way point in my fall and thinking "Ugh, there's more!?"
It's funny how, in situations like these, we become incredibly detached and rational. Though admittedly, after the fall was over, I spent about 30 seconds just dangling at the end of the rope, curled into a foetal position and whimpering on the inside.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
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4tomic nice work on white lightning! And welcome! Thanks for the cool story! Don't be a stranger ya hear! ;)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 27, 2013 - 11:23pm PT
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As far as I recall R rated pitch of White Lightning has no bolts and starts half way across the traverse into the main diedre corner. You can get a number two in the flake at your feet before you go for it to the station 30m or so above. The Crux pitch which comes after the R(unout) pitch was reasonably well protected with 2 or 3 bolts at the stances throughout the hard part.
...70foot slab fall... YIKES!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
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Longing to be here again....
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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Apr 29, 2013 - 02:58am PT
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got on some gritty friction at seal cove today..
and then wandered down the tracks to the quartz pillar just as the rain started.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 29, 2013 - 03:05am PT
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Brownies on fire here, u guys have a look at silver surfer? Anybody done that one? Looks awesome down there.
Edit-
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Apr 29, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
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I was nervous watching Robert way above the bolt on this climb, Monday.
What do you need to protect that Andy, that is if you dont have balls as big as the Roberto Unleashed?
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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WTF? I found this thread on page six or something. Late hibernation or what? Hockey? You hosers can't let my favorite thread just fade that way.
Speaking of hosers, can one of you put ole Wayno up for a night, this Monday? Preferably in Van. near GF Strong? I'm coming up to visit Big Mike.
Or could someone recommend a hotel near GF Strong? Send me a PM.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2013 - 11:50am PT
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Wayno- I know.. If i don't have much to contribute here, this thread hides itself fast.
Post up people!!
Here's an old one of me at the anchors on mushroom
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2013 - 11:53pm PT
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Smoke bluffs live feed!!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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^^^^
Nice.
A couple of Squamish's finest.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2013 - 02:33am PT
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Went up to the top of Penny Lane tonight after a fabulous BBQ provided by the Cormier's.
It's pretty nice to have the smoke bluffs in your backyard!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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BMF, Monday at GFS. Share light with the big one and I and U.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Mike got me a room at GFS. I will be there Monday and Tuesday.
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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^^ haha! it's impossible to take a photo in squamish without some powerlines :D
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2013 - 08:09pm PT
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^^ yup... I stopped erasing them because, they are a part of squish too..
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MH2
climber
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Some vid!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Four of us went to Slhany on Sunday. The plan was to do Birds of the Sun as two parties of two. However my shoes were being resoled so I borrowed my wife's shoes for the day. She has big feet and wears a size bigger than me. I should have gone the MH2 route with wooly socks in the rockshoes. As it was I felt like my feet were flopping around in the borrowed shoes so I bailed after Eagles Domain.
Hiked up to the top in time to catch the boys finishing up Birds of Prey.
Apparently Birds of the Sun was
1) dirty
2) in the sun while the finish of BoP was shady
Here are some pics
After this we helped Graham kidnap a small boulder for his rock garden, ate some ice cream and slurpees, and then went to Murrin where it was shady enough to get one more route in. It was also a gong show of bad belay techniques so we washed our feet in the lake and got the hell out of Dodge.
Also, the Canucks lost again. Some things never change. Looks like Sharks in 4.
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MH2
climber
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The Tragedy of the Commonwealth?
Not really. Everyone played nice. Our winter gym time has paid off and we are able to be around other people.
A lot more people know where The Reacharound is, too, now.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Hey Drew
Some nice shots. However I am curious about the trees in your "TOTALLY NO TILTED AT ALL" photo. Why are they growing at an angle of 50 degrees? Is that the result of a strong wind? or perhaps they are growing on a peculiar sidehill? or just because?
:) :) H.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Bruce
Colin Mooreh..d is cleaning Milenium Falcon and rescrubbing my Sticky Fingers as the start, I belive a few great multipitch routes will begin from there.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Has anyone here been up to the Top Shelf, sounds like the find of the millenium. Pics?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2013 - 03:06am PT
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Wow! Cool post Dru! Thanks! I've been super busy lately. Trying to maximize my last week of rehab, run a small business, and edit a story for a sweet rag is two full time jobs!
I dug these up for tar's killer thread last week but haven't even had a chance to put a proper post together yet..
Me digging out a crappy placement on sdr
Kieran Brownie photo
Get in there alien!
Kieran Brownie photo
Getting on the dirt ledge
Kieran Brownie photo
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2013 - 11:25am PT
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Any one lucky enough to be climbing today??
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MH2
climber
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May 10, 2013 - 11:40am PT
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Happy Days are Here Again
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saa
climber
not much of a
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May 10, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
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Climbing today?
Yep. I climbed back into my bed at 7 am because
it was raining.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 10, 2013 - 05:13pm PT
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Bruce is right, about top shelf that is.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
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It's nice down here?
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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May 11, 2013 - 01:46am PT
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Bruce, remember a guy named John Guest? I happen to work with him and he mentioned you...
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Jimmer
Trad climber
Orland Park, IL
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May 14, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
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I remember happy days climbing at Squeamish with Hughie.
BTW, anyone interested in old Squamish or other Canadian guides should contact me. I am selling off my guidebook collection. I still have over 400. Shoot me an email and I can send you a list (jimmerson@earthlink.net)
Cheers
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
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I've been sorting a few huge piles of mags that Mooser gave to Wayno for me recently.
This one is definitely a classic...
Keith Ried on the Split Pillar 10b
Kevin Mclane Photo
I flipped through it and low and behold there is a small article by Kevin with these pics,
Greg Foweraker on Burning Down The Couch 12a
Kevin Mclane photo
Dave Lane on Family Ties 13a
Kevin Mclane photo
Very cool mag. I'm hoping to have some nice cragging weather this weekend!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 15, 2013 - 11:21pm PT
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Good stuff Mike, u got some gold in those mags there.
gf looking way honed there on the couch! Very cool.
Hey does anyone know what Dave Lane does or anything about him BITD? He seemed really prolific there for awhile judging by the # of classic pitches out there with him listed as the FA but you don't hear many stories about his endeavors, was he just a silent menace or what? Sure bagged a lot of classics.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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May 16, 2013 - 11:17am PT
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Dave Lane was a co-founder of Arcteryx. Climbed the Nose when he was just 15. Sent a major Line on Bagarathi IV in the Himilayas across from Meru with Scott Flavelle. El Cap FA Hockey Night in Canada, Perry Beckham, Scott Flavelle, Dave Lane 5/80. Many FA's in the Waddington range.
Very gifted climber, born to climb kinda guy, a natural.
Flavelle / Lane line climbed the left pillar of Bagarathi III in the above photo
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2013 - 01:53pm PT
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Nice to see you again Bruce.
Yosemite update, Luke and Kieran on Salathe!
Tom Evans Photo
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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May 18, 2013 - 01:11am PT
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Ms. Chief, Mighty Kakwa and I finally busted out for a long overdue road trip to the City of Rocks.
First days back on the rock this year and having a great adventure.
Camping is stellar, 10a face is terrifying and 5.9 cracks are burly.
Evicted for the weekend, raining anyways.
Drove north today, stopped and caught a few trout (put em right back) and carried on through Ketchum to Stanley in the heart of the Sawtooths.
Wide open high country, pronghorn antelope and not many people, beautiful.
Back to the City Sunday for another week of climbing.
Should be fit for Diedre and the Buttress by the time we get back.
The older I get, the better I was.
Cheers,
PB
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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May 18, 2013 - 01:26am PT
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Sounds like a great trip, Perry. Where did you wet your line? There are lots of good rivers in Idaho. And a few good lakes. All those forks of the forks of the Salmon provide quite a variety of conditions that can mostly be had in a day with the right vehicle.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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May 18, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
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Greetings from Curry Village y'all.
We got a solid crew of Squamalians down here in the valley and we're getting after it.
Kieran and I took the Amtrak down from Seattle. It was cheap, comfortable and casual.
As soon as we got here went straight to the base of the leaning tower to get on Daryl Hattens "wet denim daydream" which was a spectacular line in a great position.
After we got of the tower we spent a few days casually getting our stuff the the base of El Cap during the days and spending the nights in camp 5.
On Monday after a well executed pre haul to heart ledge we took the afternoon off the swim In the river and relax before racking up for the Freeblast around 5pm. Jus after finishing a smoke offering we heard a familiar voice complaining about sore feet, and it turned out to be Marc-Andre just getting off a lap of the Freeblast after arriving in the valley for his first time only hours earlier.
Marc is rolling with Chris Geisler, one of the most psyched dudes I've ever met. While we were on Salathe they gave Muir wall a ground up free attempt from the heart ledges and got shut down at pitch 17 on some burly 5.13.
After a "rest day" rappelling their kit off the Muir they got on the west face of the leaning tower, and ended up coming down for rest after nearly unlocking the crux pitch but being to pumped to continue.
Rumour has it Marc has Onsighted all of the 10 or so 5.12 pitches he has be on so far.
Proud.
So Perry's quote about not being able to throw a dead cat in the valley without hitting a wide crack proved to be true up on Salathe; holy crap they jus kept coming and a lack of practise left us exhausted and bloody after each one.
We topped out Thursday around supper time after 3 great days of climbing and : amazing bivy ledges. We bivied again at the top and finished the rest of our beer and snacks and got down yesterday morning.
So that's what's going on Down here. Unfortunately my pictures always turn sideways when I post from my phone to the taco, so no pictures unless you want to grab them off Facebook.
Oh yeah I gotta shout out Kieran for being such a great partner, he killed up there, from efficient leading and hauling to organized belays on his first grade V and VI. Great job buddy!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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May 18, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
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Nice work, boys. Hammer-less on Wet Denim?
After you do Steck-Salathe, go up on South Central on the Column. There is a really nice wide pitch on that one.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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May 18, 2013 - 02:38pm PT
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Sick
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 18, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
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Do the Rostrum boys. Yer ready to send.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 18, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
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Thanks for the report Luke, glad to hear you guys are getting some. Keep after it & love the wide, eventually it's gonna love u back:-)
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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May 18, 2013 - 06:45pm PT
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shit; we're out of lettuce and Lucy is nowhere to be found, team substance abuse is in trouble.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2013 - 08:45pm PT
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Ya ya!! Do the rostrum!! You'll crush it and love it!!
Luke asked me to put up these pictures.
A bottle a wall.....
Luke Cormier photo
Kieran Chillin in the alcove. Luke's hammock was conveniently located for flatulence abuse...
Kieran keeps a vigilant belay on El Cap Spire.
Coolest place to smoke a cig ever Kieran?
Or was it this one??
More soon..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2013 - 10:15am PT
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Now now Tami, I'm sure he just ran out of smokes and just had to break out the drum :)
Bruce I still have your stuff. I sent ya pm about it awhile ago.
I Couldn't sleep very well last night, so I decided to see what I could pull out of the photos Luke sent me...
Starting Salathe wall
I'm guessing this is night one based on how much whiskey is in the bottle...
Kieran freeing pitch 12
Hollow flake p13
Kieran on another Chimney, pitch 14
looks like a hoot boys!
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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May 19, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
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LIKE!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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May 19, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
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Any pics of Wet Denim, Mike?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2013 - 02:04pm PT
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Ya, they had some on facebook.. Lemme see what i can do
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2013 - 03:31pm PT
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Jsmith was trying to post this..
Photo by Mike Chapman
Ps Too bad you deleted your post.
Quoted from here
Spied this line while working the Gunslinger with Ben Harnden last spring, gave it a light brushing and started attempts.
I put a lot of time in to this last year, falling at the crux many times. Almost sent it a couple times, but my climbing season was shut down for the rest of the year when I fell at the wrong spot breaking bones in my hand.
This year I changed my tactics and spent 6 weeks specifically training for the route. On the first lead go this year I fell early in the crux and ripped the gear, taking a unexpected big fall. Had a few moments of second guessing but decided to give it another go just for sh*t's and giggles, and found myself topping out.
The crux is after the top of the 5.12 corner shared with The Gunslinger. Tiny crimps and huge moves with glassy or no feet. I figure about V11 to the next rest and pro, followed by a bit of a heartbreaker finish. It's safe(ish) to fall early in the crux but falling after is a really bad idea.
Thanks to all whom I wrangled into belaying me.
Here's some rough footage I threw together from last years efforts.
http://youtu.be/B5mlA3YuMtY
J.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
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The Wet Denim series.
Hotlinked directly from Facebook ;)
Leaning Tower
Kieran gunning for the summit on his first Grade V route!
Luke gives an offering to the smoke gods on top.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
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Jsmith that video is so sick. Nice effort. Holy whipper! I hope your hand healed well.
City of Rocks sounds fun Perry! I gotta get down there one of these days.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 19, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
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Well, at least a pair of my pants made it up el cap. Good to see u puttin some miles on those things Kieran.
Bruce, had a great trip. Sadly, weather aversion tactics needed to be applied so got burned on most of the tower plans. Still managed to climb 9 days straight on the sandstone tho. Boulder, gear, sport, multipitch. Can't wait to go back.
Edit- holy sh#t Jeremy, proud send dude! Ur really strong in the brain this season it seems. Was this before that route on cacademon(what was the name?)? Killer photo too.
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JSmith
climber
Squamish
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May 19, 2013 - 11:03pm PT
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Thanks Mike!
Ryan. I did The bull about 2 weeks after The Year Of The Snake.
J.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 19, 2013 - 11:16pm PT
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J that was a fukin gnarly fall. I'm glad T was able to keep ya off the ground. Nice send. Good luck to anyone who repeats it.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2013 - 07:12pm PT
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Chillin at the papoose.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 20, 2013 - 10:13pm PT
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Nice Mike, looks like u brought ur chainsaw?
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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May 21, 2013 - 03:38am PT
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That Bull looks hard,total commitment on that one. Makes me want to crawl into my Papoose. I saw you up there when I was with Lindsay a week ago. Great send!
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Out_of_bounds
climber
Squamish/Revy
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Bump!
I can not really share any climbing stories as of late, since work has been keeping me more than occupied. However I did drive up towards Habrich last night and found the road to be open above the blockade. I would expect that they may put a gate on the road at some point to limit access, but for now it is clear sailing (unless someone of hire power, tells you to turn around)
Here are a few random photos
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MH2
climber
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I like those pictures. It ain't all sunshine. There's shade and rain and dark days, too. I like the sun trying to get to that waterfall in that little canyon.
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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Jun 10, 2013 - 03:03am PT
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Started late, it was raining..
it stopped raining and we're psyched
the 2nd pitch was epic!! so was the first!!
look at it!!
off to da chief
we fumbled and flailed and eventually found Sunblessed
the next day Kyle and Nina and I went to the bullet heads and partied up Bullethead East
Kyle stemmed
Nina stemmed
I jammed
The sun set
and RyanD bouldered.
g'night.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jun 10, 2013 - 11:16am PT
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That Bull rig looks badass.
Way to go Jeremy!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 10, 2013 - 12:41pm PT
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And ryand bouldered! bwahaha of course i did kieran, thats what ur supposed to do after climbing multi pitch, before i bouldered yesterday as brownie stated in such a proud manner we actually got on a route called squeamishness out left of the squaw & it definitely didn't disappoint. 5 varied pitches of physical climbing.
Didn't get any pics of pitch one which climbed a bunch of flakes & a mantel onto a stump before moving left via face moves.
Here's josh following pitch 2 which climbs a vertical corner to a improbable face traverse which looks blank from below but isn't too bad, then u get to some scary flakes up a steep finger crack.
Pitch 3 is the alleged crux, climbing up a nice, steep layback before a cryptic face move left past a bolt takes u up a strenuous layback.
Pitch 4 is the physical crux for sure, I was redlining by the top of this one. More physical, steep corner climbing with really varied movement. Stemming, laybacking, & some wierdness leads to a rest before you have to do battle with a steep groove. I felt like I was bouldering on this section since you are just hugging slopers at one point with kneebars & all sorts of thuggery.
Once you can enter the groove it's burly hand jams all the way to the anchor, a great challenging pitch.
Best of all you get to finish with 40m of straight in, splitter 5.9 crack climbing 500 feet above the forest. This is probably the best pitch of 5.9 I've done at Squamish that I can remember. Take penny lane & mix it with the $ pitch on st vitus & put it up high & yep that's it. Hero hand jams to the top where we high fived with a team onsight.
So yep klootch buttress delivers the goods, I'd recommend this route for anyone who's up for some varied, steep, physical crack climbing.
After we went bouldering in the north walls with relic until we had west Nile for sure then relocated to the grand wall boulders & messed around for a few hrs with controlled substances & heel hooks. Saw Kyle, Kieran & Nina who were also out climbing in the bulletheads. Fun day.
Oh,
I also heard a giant was spotted in the smoke bluffs.
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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Jun 10, 2013 - 12:52pm PT
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cloggin Duh feed with RyanD
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 10, 2013 - 01:10pm PT
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Cloggin the feed with bolted cracks! what's with the bolt in the corner u guys climbed in that 4th photo. WTF?! there's gear everywhere, i cant believe you guys climbed that sport route, i'm a go up there and choppy it up right now before i go bouldering i'm so mad at all those bolted crack bolters ruining it fer everyone!
edit, cool photo's maybe this threads got some life in it still! I just thought everyone started mountain biking.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2013 - 01:28pm PT
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Nice work boys!! Out of bounds that spot looks amazing!
I'm so jealous i don't get to go have fun with everyone...
I heard Kyle and Nathan did White Lightning yesterday too....
Sandra and i wandered up to Ronins yesterday.
After assuring me that she was going to die several times, she finally made it up mcm clean.
I seconded it which went pretty well, but got a little scrambly towards the top.
Sandra top roped it a couple more times, to convince herself that; yes she could actually do this..... ;)
Then she suggested we go up to Fern Gulley which also had her convinced of her imminent demise by the halfway point. Once again she made the ascent unmaligned and i took it down.
As i was rapping the Chief was shining, with the imminent sunset.
It feels pretty good to be out again, but not normal to say the least! I still have a lot more work ahead of me..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2013 - 01:45pm PT
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Ps. This thread won't die as long as i'm still kicking.. I've been on a bit of an st sabbatical....
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jun 10, 2013 - 01:57pm PT
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Keep the content coming everyone! Just under 2 months till I get to enjoy Squamish for the first time.
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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Jun 10, 2013 - 02:01pm PT
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no pro' bro!! although you could sink a coupla heads into that flare..
but seriously, without the bolt that stellar pitch would be a junk show of bashed out pasties and the bloody smears of splattered "Top 100" ticking gym climbers..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
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Are pasties acceptable free climbing pro now? Lol..
Good thing this isn't the valley!! Lol
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 10, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
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Just trollin a little Brownie, u know me. No shame, bolt em all! I think I even fell on that bolt BITD lol.
It's true, Big Mike is out! With ropegun Sandra. That is awesome!
Maybe we should put a lil ticklist together for her?
I'll add:
People of size 5.5- pink cliff
Swiss cheese 5.7 - Nordic
Flaming arête 5.7- chek, foundation wall
Blueberry hill- calcheak
Many at second ave, new wall to the left of nubile woman in the bluffs
Davy Jones locker 5.6- pixie corner
Dusty eyes 5.4- boogers n' flies
There's another good one far far left boogers n flies called bilbo baggins I think? 5.6
Sugarloaf, many- Murrin
Edit- bilbo baggins is far right I'm dum
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Baby Doll
Trad climber
Squamish
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Jun 11, 2013 - 01:25am PT
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Nice photos everyone. Thanks for the list RyanD :) I've put up a couple at Sugarloaf (last year and this year). Pixie Corner came to mind yesterday too. I'll take a look at those other ones you suggested. Thanks :)
Gotta work on my head space...big time. Its proving more challenging than usual given what's happened plus I haven't had much time on the rock so the combination of early-season jitters and stress from Mike's injury has been plucking at my anxiety strings. I know its difficult for others to understand but I'm working on it. Its funny cuz when I put up MCM last year I was soooo much calmer.
Other things I've been up to other than rope-gunning for Mike:
Weege's lamp
Tammi! I found the PERFECT space to hang the painting you made for the big guy... one of the nicest, not to mention, most meaningful, pieces we have in our collection. The photo of it doesn't do it justice...the walls are actually white not yellow and the painting glows blue during the day. Thank you!
And I also made a Get-Well Collage out of all the nice cards and messages which is hanging on our kitchen wall...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 11, 2013 - 02:36am PT
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Quick trip to Squamish on the weekend, but since I had to work pretty much every minute I wasn't climbing while I was there, I didn't tell any of you that we were going up. Felt bad about not having time to connect with Mike, or with any old friends, but figured there'd be time for that on the next trip.
We did no notable climbing, but did have an exceptional moment...
On Sunday we wandered over to Murrin to take a look at the Common Wealth, a newish crag we'd never visited. As we got close, I made out some movements at the base of the crag. Another party there ahead of us. Couldn't really see them through the trees. As we got closer, I was looking at something else (probably where my feet were going), not at the them, when I heard...
"Hey Dave."
Now, what you have to understand is that there are only two people in the world who call me Dave. But it wouldn't matter if there were two thousand, because I'd know that voice anywhere.
Yup. Number Two Son, whom I hadn't seen for a year.
He was out for his first day climbing since breaking his collar bone. Well, shattering his collar bone.
We had no idea Ian was in Squamish, but for me it made the trip. What a treat to see him again! Last time I was on rock with him was exactly twenty years ago, when he was just seven (he gave up climbing after that, but got back into it a few years ago). He was climbing with his girlfriend Deb, and two friends -- Matt and Shona (Matt works at MEC).
Maybe once his shoulder is fully healed, he can start hauling me up stuff I can't do on my own anymore.
(And in case anyone cares, the other person who calls me Dave is ST's Wayno)
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Jstod
Trad climber
North Vancouver
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Jun 11, 2013 - 03:14am PT
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^^
Cool story - Hope you two manage to re-connect on the rock!
Not that it's very relevant to your chance encounter but we showed up at the same crag and were climbing next to you for a bit before your son and then you left. I couldn't quite figure out the connection between what seemed to be two different groups - now it all makes sense :)
Heard you were from Seattle and wondered if you were a Supertopan, but as a devout lurker, I left it at that!
Julian
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MH2
climber
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Jun 11, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
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^^ ^^
That's two coincidences.
I'm still waiting for the day when I come across a climber outdoors who I only know through ST.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
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I'm still waiting for the day when I come across a climber outdoors who I only know through ST.
What do you mean Andy? That already happened when we met! ;)
Dave - You were up here and didn't call me?? Jeeze! ;) Bring Wayno next time and we'll go cragging! Say hi to Mari for me too.
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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Jun 11, 2013 - 01:23pm PT
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Feeling homesick for Squamish and realised I've never posted a picture to this thread, so heres a couple of selected highlights of a highly evolved form of cheating that masquerades as real climbing:
(as nice a sight as you can hope for when taking a dump in a plastic bag)
One of the cooler ledges I've ever been on.
The route was maybe a bit much for me at the time, so was a proper mini-adventure.
Its hard to convey how big and imposing those roofs felt when cowering under them. That route was definitely too much for me.
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MH2
climber
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Jun 11, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
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Perspectives we don't see often here, Paul Brennan. Those roofs can be as big as they wanna be as long as they stay up there.
Our first meeting was sorta pre-arranged, Big Mike. At least it was pre-announced. Looking forward to the next time!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 11, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
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I'm still waiting for the day when I come across a climber outdoors who I only know through ST.
We met that way too Andy! I recognized u from a photo I saw of u on here!
Killer photos Paul!
a highly evolved form of cheating that masquerades as real climbing:
So funny, thanks for the honesty- although I'm sure some here(kidcormier/brownie/fishboy/chief) would probably disagree :-)
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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Jun 11, 2013 - 04:15pm PT
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So funny, thanks for the honesty- although I'm sure some here(kidcormier/brownie/fishboy/chief) would probably disagree :-)
Don't get me wrong, I love wall climbing. Its pretty much all I did last year. How can you not love a form of climbing where you can be slow, weak, lazy, and still get kudos? And better still, be able to do it on your own, so you don't have to listen to partners complaining about you being slow, weak and lazy.
I love aid cheating, and it never pays to take yourself seriously.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 11, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
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What's with you guys not just breaking bones but SHATTERING them?
It's a trait that runs in the family. I think the medical geneticists call it "stupidity."
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MH2
climber
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Jun 11, 2013 - 11:40pm PT
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I recognized u from a photo I saw of u on here!
Damn! I thought it was my fame.
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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Jun 11, 2013 - 11:53pm PT
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aid climbing is cool because you can drink whiskey and smoke cigs whilst making steady upward progress. That being said, I'm pretty broke at the moment so I'll be sticking to the free variety for the time being..
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 13, 2013 - 09:01pm PT
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Anyone out there done straight outta squampton left of the squaw? Not lookin so much fer beta, just wanna hear if it is awesome?? Thinking about going to worship there on the day of the lord.
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MH2
climber
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Jun 13, 2013 - 11:08pm PT
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For me it was likable, the second pitch was unusual.
edit: That kneebar picture from Squeamishness makes me wonder if you would find the second pitch of Straight Outta Squampton that different.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 14, 2013 - 12:21am PT
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Cool, thanks Andy.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 14, 2013 - 12:49am PT
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Hey all you hosers, my puter crashed and I lost all my contact info. Please send me a pm with contact info. You know who you are.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 14, 2013 - 12:52am PT
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Heard you were from Seattle and wondered if you were a Supertopan, but as a devout lurker, I left it at that!
You should have spoken up! Why not? I guess there are a couple of a-holes who post on ST, but the remaining 99.99% are wonderful people. Doesn't matter if they're Famous Climbers™, or gumbies from Gumbieville, they're probably going to be happy to meet you. And who knows where that might lead?
Some of my best friends are folks I bumped into at the crags. If I hadn't spoken up, I'd be a lot poorer for it.
So, next time you spot that old guy with the gray beard, say hello.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 14, 2013 - 12:55am PT
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Hey all you hosers, my puter crashed and I lost all my contact info. Please send me a pm with contact info. You know who you are.
Do I still count as a hoser? Or do you think of me as just another stoopid American now?
If you come over for a beer on Monday, I'll give you my contact info.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 14, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
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Thanks Bruce, squeamishness was great for sure. I'm pretty stoked on that whole area over there. Lots of steep stuff on nice rock. U need something bigger than a blue camalot for Squampton?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2013 - 04:07pm PT
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Pet Wall Live Feed!
What's the route?
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jun 15, 2013 - 04:40pm PT
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Burnin' Down the Couch
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 15, 2013 - 04:40pm PT
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Too easy Mike. Cool photo though! I'll see u guys in a few hrs if ur still there bein sportclimbing wieners :-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2013 - 10:27pm PT
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Too easy eh? Ok ok... It certainly should be for Perry... Hi Perry!!
Ok what's this one we're hanging out on then?
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 16, 2013 - 03:50am PT
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Even Steven?
Dave I though I first met Drew (Oplopanax horridus) on ST. Then looking at an old video I took in 2000 while climbing Needle peak I realized I had crossed paths with him already without knowing his identity. There he was on the video racing past us on one of his annual VOC outings.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 16, 2013 - 06:00pm PT
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I've seen Chief walking down the street in Squamish, but I've never been introduced to him. One day I hope somebody introduces me to you, Perry.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2013 - 06:09pm PT
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Nope. Not Even Steven. Something a bit harder. More hints later.
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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Jun 19, 2013 - 08:13pm PT
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bump for squamish!!
On monday morning Ryan showed up at my place with a rack of gear and a big smile and we discussed the plan for the day while I chugged back coffee. The day was looking to be a beauty with blue sky and a few puffy white clouds meandering about in the open air so we hopped in the truck and headed to the Squaw(the Chief's little sister)with stoke levels on high. A quick jaunt to the base and we were looking up at the spectacular black slabs and clean white headwalls as the multitudes of mosquitos milled about our heads. Ryan headed up the amazing 70+m of 5.fun finger and hand crack of Birds of Prey while I swatted and grabbed at the hungry little bastards trying to drink my blood.
A warm, wet winter had made for perfect mosquito growing weather and we were paying the price for all those wonderful winter climbing days we had enjoyed over the last 6 months. Eventually; as any west coaster knows, you forget about the blood suckers and I watched Ryan cruise upwards till the rope came tight and I scrambled for a bit to allow him to reach the belay. As I cleaned the pitch my phone began buzzing so I pulled it out and continued climbing with one hand while I chatted with our friend Kyle.
I reached the belay where a short steep hand crack begins and I jammed my way to the top where the guide book describes an "airy move" and indeed it was, stepping off the ledge at the top of the hand crack a quick smear and some crimps lead back left over the steep wall and provide an exciting bit of exposure before scrambling to the anchor.
Once Ryan had reached the belay we decided he would see how far he could get with our rope and then headed up the headwall.
Two parallel cracks split the left side and inspire interesting climbing that is not entirely straight forward but quite fun.
Ryan hiked it and the 70m rope allowed him to top-out and I ran up behind him to high five on the summit.
We ran down the hill back to the truck and quickly drove back to my house to grab my chalk bag and some more smokes and then drove back to the Mamquam logging road and parked at the entrance to the Angel's Crest trail. Our legs were a little tired but we made it to the base quickly and were surprised to see an ugly brown sign with white lettering bolted to the rock stating that this was in fact the Angel's Crest. We discussed the poor ethics of the sign and then walked up to the famous Tree that starts the route off. Ryan monkeyed his way up the tree limbs and traversed over to the base of Angel Crack.
I scrambled after him, grabbed the rack and headed up the beauty left trending finger crack I had been looking forward to climbing for so long.
Finger locks and good smears led me to a quick crux and the anchor and I pulled up rope till Ryan popped around the corner with the Squaw behind him and I told him to wait a second while I fumbled with my phone and took a photo.
The next pitch cruises up past two bolts and some fun flakes to a nice belay tree where we chatted about the next pitch.
Ryan had done this route a few times before so he figured I should climb through the next couple pitches with a bit of simuling to gain a good ledge. A short 10a section lay in the middle but we figured we would both be on belay with all the rope we had so I scrambled up a bulge and a corner before I reached the base of a steep section. I followed the steep corner up until it thinned out and began wondering why it felt so hard as I pulled hard on a sloppy thin finger pocket and stemmed and crimped my way out onto the face before looking down and realising the proper route was a clean white corner to my right. I had sandbagged myself with some awful rope drag by taking this variation so I built an anchor and brought Ryan up. He laughed as he climbed the dirty corner and then passed me and continued up to the ledge. When I reached the belay he mentioned I should bring my "nut-craft" for the next pitch so I danced up the fun jamming placing three bomber nuts along the way till I reached a ledge and wandered through the woods to a good tree where I belayed Ryan.
The next pitch gains yet another ledge where 2 minutes of walking leads to the "Acrophobe Towers". This pitch is one of the most easily identifiable features on the Chief and any climber who visits Squamish should check them out. Easy scrambling gains the ridge where one gets to balance beam along the top with a thousand feet of air below. The view was spectacular as I brought Ryan up and I wished he would climb slower so I could hang out a bit longer but soon he was beside me.
I climbed a full rope length through some interesting terrain to reach the "whale back" and despite placing no gear was met with brutal rope drag for the last hand crack. I had to find a stance, reef on the rope with both hands until I had a loop of slack, then chomp down on the rope with my teeth, then feed out slack by quickly opening and closing my mouth and then repeat this process every 10 feet. I reached the tree without much trouble(other then the rope drag) and Ryan passed me to set me up for the next pitch.
A good tip for teams looking to climb this section efficiently(Acrophobes-Whale Back) would be to tie in short and simul with only half a rope between you and your partner. The next pitch is a beautiful hand crack in a rad position. All of a sudden the exposure of the entire Sherif's Badge is under your butt and you have to pull through a short but steep bulge and then continue up the sustained and steep crack to a good ledge.
Some beautiful girls were doing a photo shoot on the 3rd summit and they asked if I was rock climbing and cheered when I shouted "hell ya!". I wooohoooed and the North Gully woooohoooed too and then Ryan woooohoooed and everyone was happy. Ryans pitch(and the last of the route) started with a belly crawl and a short chimney and then a rad scramble right to the summit.
We drank some water and ate a snickers and headed towards the trail.
We ran down the backside trail till we hit Olesen Creek where we stopped to rehydrate in the afternoon sun and enjoy some tobacco before cutting left and walking down to Shannon Falls. The trail up felt easy compared to the Squaw and Angel's Crest approaches and soon we were at the base of Skywalker (a new/old line that has quickly become a classic moderate route thanks to a hard working route developer).
We short roped and simuled up it in no time at all and then ran down the trail to our conveniently stashed bikes and snacks.
We swallowed some banana flavoured protein powder and ate some banana flavoured bananas before making our way up to the Papoose(the Chief's sister's younger brother). Too our surprise there was someone else out and about on this monday evening who was measuring the Papoose rap route. I traversed up and left on the first pitch of "Hairpin" and was surprised at how polished the rock was. The next pitch follows a right trending crack through some seriously smooth granite with small holes of grit to shove your toes in and then some jamming to a good belay ledge.
The clouds were orange by this time and we realized the crux of tbe day would be making it to the beer store in time so after I pulled through a small roof and traversed left, Ryan took us to the top with another rope stretching link up.
I called my roommate to see if he could run down the block to grab us some beer but there was no answer so we continued on. It was dark in the forest as we hiked back down to our bikes and the light was fading fast as we biked along the highway shoulder towards the Malemute.
We locked our bikes up and stashed the backpack before walking towards the old-trail that accesses the lower malemute(a new one has been established, unfortunately we were ignorant of it's existence). As we followed a faint path through the long grass we both raked our memories for clues of where it went but as the light faded so did the trail and soon we were scratching our heads in front of a wall of bushes. The route was hidden by green foliage but I figured it had to go this way so we followed the weakness through the sea of plants finding the trail with our feet and soon found ourselves back on recognisable terrain. We popped out of the woods and onto the train tracks and as we walked along we felt the cumulative miles in our feet and looked around at the moonlit rock and listened to the sloshing of the waves while a cool breeze blew across the tracks. Our tired feet brought us to the base of Old Style and we balanced across logs over a tidal pool to the base of the cliff. I split a cliffbar in half and we enjoyed dinner on our perch above the water.
I turned on our one headlamp and looked up at the rad looking corner and felt tired and intimidated by the steepness of the rock but i gave Ryan a nod and scrambled up to meet the wall. As I jammed and smeared into the corner my body relaxed and my mind snapped into focus and the climbing felt much easier then the walking had and I confidently climbed up placing only a few cams. I reached a good stance and was dipping into my chalk bag when my phone rang and knowing it could only be one person slipped it out of my pocket and answered it. Sure enough it was Woody and I asked if he wouldn't mind grabbing us some beer, he said no prob and Ryan woopee'd when I shouted down the good news. I ran up to the chains with new inspiration and then belayed Ryan up, looking down the whole time to light his way.
We couldn't figure out where to go next so Ryan decided to head left up a dirty ramp but after slinging a stump found a rad looking hand crack that lead to a roof which gained the best fingerlocks of the day just above(Cyder Crack).
Ryan cruised it and then cloved in with a bunch of slack to better light the way for me and I scrambled up to meet him. Each finger lock was a burst of pleasure and I savoured the awesomeness at each move.
Ryan noticed a hand shaped cloud reaching over the moon and we joked about how good of a hand hold the moon might be before he traversed left to the base of High Mountain Woody. I grabbed some gear and then grabbed the Woody and mantled onto the stump. The 45 meter pitch of stellar jamming took me to the top of the Malemute where I placed the #3 for the first and only time of the day in the last foot of crack before the top just so it wasn't a complete waste of energy carrying it everywhere and then lit up a smoke and brought Ryan up in the dark. When Ryan topped out we packed the gear up and walked out through another over-grown trail and back to the bikes.
Despite it being 12:30(15 hours after we started up the Squaw trail) we decided to go grab the beers and some cheeseburgers and run up the Smoke bluff Connection as a victory lap so we grabbed the bikes and crossed the highway. A black object was beside the highway barrier and I wondered what it was as I passed it. Ryan was wondering the same thing and as he lifted his bike over the barrier realised what it was. His bike seat had some how found itself 50 feet from where we locked the bike up and then he noticed his chain had been taken off and was hanging loose. We sorted out the bike and then road down the highway where just as we turned on to the logging road where the truck was parked we spotted a pair of dudes stumbling across the highway suspiciously so we yelled our thanks for f*#king with the bikes and they turned around before skulking back into the shadows. As we peddled along the dirt road I felt a drop of water on my face and began feeling cold for the first time that day and as we reached the truck the skies opened and the rain came falling down. As we drove towards McDonalds we passed the two midnight mischiefs who were now soggy with rain and wondered at the mysterious hand we had seen grab the moon earlier and the magic of karma and were content to go back to my house and stuff our faces with greasy burgers and cold beers and a big fat doobie.
After Ryan left I passed out cold on the couch and woke up at 1:30 the next afternoon and hadn't moved an inch.
This link-up was inspired by a recent trip to Yosemite, RyanD provided nutrition and smokes, Woody "the Legend" saved the day with the 6 cold ones waiting for us in the fridge and last but not least Fate for allowing this epic fun day to happen.
Cam Of The Day
We climbed 32 guidebook pitches of classic Squamish rock on 5 different formations over the course of 15 hours which made for one of the best days of climbing either of us have ever had. An added bonus was that Skywalker was the only route I had climbed before..
Go out and get some!!
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MH2
climber
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Jun 19, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
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Close enough to an endless day. Good support, too! Just like it was meant to be.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jun 19, 2013 - 08:42pm PT
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What a great day you guys had! Wonderful write-up.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 19, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
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Mikey, if u don't post some of the photos u were takin while hangin out there on the pet I'm gonna tell everyone the route name, more hints! Hint, hint.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 20, 2013 - 12:48am PT
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I need a Squamish fix.
Paging Mr. Harris.
They fixed that dumb bridge already so I have no excuses except this horrible pain I call my job.
Everyone else is on vacation and it sucks.
I wanna go.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jun 20, 2013 - 01:34am PT
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Oplapanax,
Sightings of yours truly between Starbucks and the post office are not uncommon.
Don't hesitate to introduce yourself next time.
Regards,
PB
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 20, 2013 - 02:50am PT
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I wonder who named cider crack??^^^ :-)
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 20, 2013 - 03:31am PT
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That's alota pitches. Another great TR of an outstanding link-up.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 20, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
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Wow!! Is that a link-up or an enchainment? :)
Great day, guys.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 21, 2013 - 10:24am PT
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Guilty. Anyone have a cam larger than a 6 to lend to the mobile top rope effort?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 21, 2013 - 12:06pm PT
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U been up there Bruce?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 21, 2013 - 04:41pm PT
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 22, 2013 - 12:25am PT
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Yeah Big Mike! New ropegun in town!
BK, might take you up on that. You gonna be around tomorrow?
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 22, 2013 - 12:28am PT
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Did Big Mike get his hairs cut? Cheers, you two.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 25, 2013 - 11:58am PT
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Cider Crack always has me pitying the poor dude who gets his nuts stuck in Cider
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 25, 2013 - 01:26pm PT
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Yeah I got sum of dem tubes as well, they work well to create airflow in the bottom of my gear bin.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 25, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
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Go Mike go, your a member of the commonwealth now. Hail Britannia.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2013 - 06:09pm PT
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Yes Wayno. Big Mike did get his "hairs" cut indeed, and you will be receiving an email real soon, along with the rest of the pm's i haven't had a chance to get to yet.
Harry let's go climb soon. This weekend?
Thanks WTF. It's a long road and i'm nowhere near it's terminus yet. Slowly but surely.
Great advice too! Sandra's been having a rough go at it lately dealing with the loss of her ropegun and just my injury in general. It didn't really hit home for her until she had to deal with my day to day struggle.
If anyone would be so obliged as to ropegun her up the Chief sometime soon she could really use the trip.
Thanks Wml, i'm trying!
Thank you to Anders as well for coming out of lurkerdom to post those up.
Awesome show Kieran and Ryan! Very sick day! Thanks for sharing!
Ok ok.. What happened to this thread anyways?? Didn't some tall guy used to post pictures here or something??
A few more pet wall hints...
Josh getting started on the lower crack
Halfway
Make that clip!
Unknown Kite Boarder pulls an invert board off in front of the Chief
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 26, 2013 - 09:33pm PT
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Nice pics Mike! Josh finally ticked that one off this past weekend.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 26, 2013 - 10:05pm PT
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ok that flake is on either second nature or project grizzly, it's shared by both.
what do i win?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
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Yeah i know! He said he downclimbed the crux like 5 times before he got the sequence right!
Another hint....
Well.. You haven't specified the exact route yet Dru... But if you choose wisely i will happily purchase you a beer next time you're in town!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 26, 2013 - 10:20pm PT
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that looks more like proj grizz based on the select topo
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2013 - 10:20pm PT
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Dru wins!
Shoot me a pm next time you head up this way
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2013 - 10:29pm PT
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Speaking of which Jim, when are we going climbing??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 12:47am PT
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I just went to Kris's and grabbed my new toys!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 27, 2013 - 12:51am PT
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What the hell u gonna do with those Mike?!?! Lets go put up some sport routes! Apparently someone wAsnt paying attention & sold Luke a badass drill, o jeez!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 01:01am PT
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I heard that rumor! I was planning to kill some staples but an fa sounds fun too! ;) I heard Henkle has a new zone going?
I also want to kill some of those Barley two link chain anchors.. I hate those things.. Lol!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 27, 2013 - 01:38am PT
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Did some one say bolt ladder to no where?
I get 256 bat holes per battery out of this sucker. That there monolith is gonna look like Swiss cheese in no time.
I'm also renting it for $85/day+deposit... If anyone's interested.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 27, 2013 - 01:38am PT
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Somewhere, somehow there is someone with an oversensitive ethical dilemma that just had a moment(at least) of anguish. I'm not sure why but I am sure it deserves a chuckle. Damn funny.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 01:56am PT
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The rock will be fine.. Lol. "No bolts next to good gear" right? Lol
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 27, 2013 - 02:01am PT
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Mike, I inherently trust you. The Kid, I'm not to sure aboat. ;^)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 02:14am PT
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He's good. He likes good pro too. Right Luke?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 27, 2013 - 03:08am PT
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We gotta go put a bolt ladder in at chek & write "10b" at the base in chalk before the long weekend, then we can go back Tuesday & collect all the quickdraws.
Seriously tho, that drill looks sweet, & since my dog walking rate is only $170 per walk & $42.50 per feeding I should have a good 5 days on the tab after this weekend so long as Yula doesn't take a poo, those are $100 a piece.
Edit- Wayno, I'm the one u gotta worry "aboat" :-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 03:51am PT
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Lol! ;)
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 27, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
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I was planning to kill some staples
Dave was telling me about those things. Just how many of those things did he put in? Sounds like a worthy project, anyway.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 02:41pm PT
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Tons. I gotta find some candidates and talk to Robin to see if he's cool with it.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 27, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
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Are we back on staples again??!
I am pretty sure RB doesn't like anyone chopping his Jingus gear so I wouldn't even ask Mike. Just do it like everyone else does. What r u gonna say to him that he won't be insulted by? This guy has possibly bolted more pitches than anyone in North America so I don't think he is interested in any negative feedback on his methods at this point, although he is a really nice dude to chat with, he is convinced that he is in the right with his tactics. Another thing to remember is that 80% of RB staple routes are zero star ledgy slabs or squeeze jobs between cracks, do u want to waste ur $$$ on replacing hardware on routes that will probably get eaten by moss within the next year or 2 & will never be climbed again??
I think the staple count is pretty low, I haven't seen them for awhile except a few in the bluffs.
A better proj may be, as u said, changing some of his garbage rap stations, which are everywhere. The entire Squaw/Klootch buttress is covered in em as well as some apron routes & the malamute.
Edit- I'd be happy to help with replacements, just let me know.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 05:43pm PT
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That's kinda what i figured Ryan, but i had a couple of people tell me i should talk to him.. Anchor replacements are definitely high on the list.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jun 27, 2013 - 05:50pm PT
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You should make an attempt to ask or mention the routes you would like to update, thats the respectful thing to do.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 06:24pm PT
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Interesting ethical question here. I was always under the impression that swapping out worn anchors or replacing bolts for bolts was fair game.
Didn't Jeremy ask you about adding a new bolt on the Milk Run traverse pitch Tami?
Obviously i'm not proposing anything nefarious here, just curious is all.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jun 27, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
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Talk to Robin. He (probably) won't bite your head off. He doesn't own the routes he put up, but I think it's polite to ask him before ripping out the staples.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 27, 2013 - 07:32pm PT
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Make sure you stand real close to him to emphasize your height and regrow that beard for god's sake!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 08:14pm PT
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Oh jeeze.. Why do i feel like i'm opening pandora's box... Lol
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MoonGoon
climber
canadistan
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Jun 27, 2013 - 09:26pm PT
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Huzzah! Sorry folks, I'm going to hijack this thread momentarily out of desperation. I lost my camera in skaha 2 weeks ago and well, there's no skaha thread so here I am. Lost blue panasonic DMC-TS2 Tough camera. Think it was left at Great White june 14th but not 100%. If anyone peeking at this thread is in Skaha and can look at the parking lot message board to see if anyone picked it up I would be endlessly grateful. Post up or PM.
The reward for it's return will be me finally posting some syck Squamish climbing shots to this thread.
Thank you all and Happy climbing
-e
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 27, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
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Haha ok here we go, staples round 7.
Good points here, u guys & gal r right that talking to the FAist is the "usual" protocol & the approach I would "usually" take if I was inspired to re-fit someone else's route. I hope my post wasn't misinterpreted as disrespect towards RB as he is definitely an example of determination, passion, & hard work in the climbing community. Just pointing out that he is also not your "usual" FAist. I've chatted with him a few times & he's pretty sure that his routes are good the way they are from what I can tell. I can't see a way that he would voluntarily agree to having his routes or hardware changed or altered & not be pissed or disrespected that someone would suggest such a thing to someone who has been doing it for so long. It's like walking up to Luongo & telling him if he used an Easton blocker he wouldn't let in so many goals.
This is what many locals tried to do a few yrs back when the staples appeared, he was approached in a civil, rational way & he wouldnt have any of it, subsequently all the staples were chopped anyways, most weren't replaced & the climbing community of squamish decided that they were not acceptable or safe or up to a local hardware standard that was trying to be established.I think there's even a route at Murrin called "staples away".
Since then theres a number of ppl still, including local guides who haven't quit the crusade against the staples & will chop em on sight knowing damn well who put them in & not think twice- the fact that your looking at replacing them Mike is probably offering more of a service to him & his staple routes than many anti staplers out there would but I'm not so sure he will see it that way.
Myself, i could care less & just stay the hell away from staples cuz they scratch up the anodization on my fancy wire gates & they usually are placed on ledgy featureless 10c slabs that offer less than interesting climbing. He seems to use real bolts on the more quality pitches, maybe for that reason. Im sure theres a few lurking on here who know someone or maybe themselves have had a hand in upgrading some of his anchors or routes without his knowledge in this hear no evil see no evil manner.
He also told me that he only flies one particular airline because they give u free socks & they are the only socks that fit under his climbing shoes properly & that he tries to grab as many pairs as possible while in the air to stock up & has been doing so for 30 yrs! Lol.
All that yakkity yak said I withdrawal my chop away comment, shoulda thought that thru a bit more before supertoproping it, but I am really interested in hearing how this transpires, Big Mike is a kind soul so maybe he can succeed where others have not. You're just going to have to convince to him to admit that his hardware is not up to snuff & that ur the guy who should replace it. Good luck, hope u got a plan B :-)
I do think that nobody should need permission though to replace janky & potentially dangerous hardware on climbs used by the general public in hi traffic areas like those around here & that FAist's should put up routes with the local standard in mind.
Too bad RB doesn't post up on here it would be awesome to have him here to tell his side of the staple story.
End rant. I'm gunna go get stoned & confine myself to 2 sentence posts. In case u wasted ur time reading this one here's a picture as ur reward:-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2013 - 12:20pm PT
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This seems like a good place to repost the conversation Kyle had with Robin in April.
"Oh, by the way, had a chat with Robin yesterday and he asked about you. He sends his best regards and we talked a fair bit on staples and his thorough testing on them. He also explained how they are actually much safer than most of these other bolts because bolts can pop out if the rock inside where the bolt is deteriorates. With the glue ins, water can not penatrate the epoxy. A good example was the route we were climbing right beside him: catscan. The bolts were rusty and had probably compromised the rock that we could not see. He says people silicone or something to keep water out nowadays, but you can't tell from looking."
I think i would definitely need to find a route that i thought was really worthy of the effort, before i go yanking staples and patching holes. I am excited about fixing up some anchors though which i will speak with Robin about, although i can't see why he would object...
Nice pic Ryan, i still have yet to check out the north north.
Edit By fixing anchors i mean changing out three link chains with washers and nuts for hangers with rings.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 28, 2013 - 01:58pm PT
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When I was in Squamish a couple of weeks ago I ran into John Howe in Starbucks. Hadn't seen him for a while, and we had a nice chat. Which included the subject of staples.
This comment by Glenn on the previous page made me think of it:
Talk to Robin. He (probably) won't bite your head off. He doesn't own the routes he put up, but I think it's polite to ask him before ripping out the staples.
When I asked John about the whole staple thing he just shook his head and said [I'm paraphrasing here] that virtually everyone in the local climbing community had tried to explain to Robin that the staples didn't belong, but that Robin just didn't care.
He probably knows Robin as well as anyone, and I've never heard him say anything mean-spirited or disrespectful about the man. And he wasn't doing that here. Just stating the simple fact that the opinion of the rest of the community was immaterial to Dr. B.
So, Mike, go ahead and talk to him if you want. But you should probably have a Plan B in place for when he doesn't grant permission to pull those staples.
And a couple of caveats to all of the above: First, I know nothing about the safety of the staples, and am not advocating anything. It's been long enough since I was part of the Squamish climbing community that I don't get a vote. And second, through the twenty-some years that I was a part of the Squamish community I knew Robin fairly well. And like JH, I have nothing bad or negative to say about him. But he does march to the beat of his own drum, and has never shown any interest in what others think about that.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jun 28, 2013 - 02:38pm PT
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You're just going to have to convince to him to admit that his hardware is not up to snuff
I wouldn't bother going down that route, why not just ask if he minds you swapping some of his new anchors for some expensive ones, I cant imagine he would mind.
If you start out dissing his anchor choice then the conversation is going to go where it has gone before.
Personally I have no problems with staples, they are pretty common in other parts of the world. Whether they belong in Squamish as BK pointed out a few pages back is something else all together.
Thanks for the community service Mike
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jun 28, 2013 - 08:00pm PT
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I've never had anything but pleasant conversations with Robin. He certainly goes his own way, which is admirable. Nice guy.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2013 - 08:21pm PT
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Thanks for the community service Mike
You're welcome! I wish i didn't have to deal with politics first....
I need to go say hi to Robin anyways.
The thing that scares me about staples is the micro fractures between the holes for the u-bolts. And the glue not holding them in the rock if they aren't properly notched.
The Staple or U Bolt.
You may or may not be aware that these were in common use in Germany for many years. The Germans being thorough chaps go around testing bolts at regular intervals and the results led to two decisions. 1) To remove all staples immediatly as none achieved the required test figures. 2) To recommend the removal/changing of all bolt-in bolts after 10 yrs, all new bolt-ins should be sealed against water ingress, either as in the construction industry with a rubber ring, or with a silicon sealant, and to discourage the use of bolt-ins in areas subject to freeze/thaw conditions.
The test results for staples were not published by the DAV as far as I know but we made and tested some. 8mm dia rod with 80mm legs achieved around 6 to 8 kN, When I knurled the legs to improve the bond the rock failed, generally at around 12kN. Examination of the failure showed that drilling two holes so close together seriously weakens the rock, according to friends in the quarry industry the drilling produces micro-fractures and these link up producing an area of shattered rock between the holes. (A similar effect to when you try to fit a expansion plug in a masonary wall near to an old one). Another problem we noticed was that on the bolts with bonding failure only one leg failed, implying that the load is not evenly shared, therefore the bonding for each leg must be capable of withstanding the proof load.
http://www.bolt-products.com/Glue-inBoltDesign.htm
Not to mention this horrible idea..
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 28, 2013 - 09:23pm PT
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Mike- That photo sequence u posted can happen with regular bolt hangers as well if the gates on the quickdraws are opposing.
This sums it up here:
Barley is iconoclastic in the best way. He gleefully engages any one every time they thinks they can take him on over his climbing practices. The boy loves the struggle but there's no changing his mind !
There isn't a more polite, yet resolute man climbing in Squamish.
I like this one too that Luke found somewhere.
Robin Barley.
I find it best, and considerably less frustrating, to see Robin less as a climber or developer of routes and more of a force of nature. You can get upset all you want at the approaching storm, shake your fist at the clouds, even yell at the rain. But the storm -like Barely- couldn't care less what you think and will not be stopped. So like the storm, it's best to just sit back, watch in wild wonder then go out and pick up the pieces after the storm has passed.
Aaron.
So seriously, can anyone think of an individual in North America who has put up anywhere close to the number of pitches as RB has??
On another note. Here's a site u should click on, it's a good buddies. He takes beautiful photos of climbing, snowboarding, surfing, kayaking, etc.
http://philtifo.com/
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2013 - 11:57pm PT
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Very true Ryan. I didn't notice it was pulling the wrong way.. Duh.
Phil's work is awesome. He had some sweet shots hanging in Splitz awhile back, not sure if it's still up or not. Remy was in one!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
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Sandra and i got out for some toprope laps on Burgers this evening.
Any one else get some pitches in?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 29, 2013 - 10:39pm PT
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Any one else get some pitches in?
We went hunting for a new cliff, but came back empty-handed. So not only no pitches -- no rock.
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Adrian MacNair
Boulder climber
Vancouver
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Jun 29, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
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Yo kids, I'm moving and I need to get rid of some junk. That includes these old climbing ropes. WYSIWYG: two 13-year-old 10.5mm 50m dynamics mostly used in the gym, a little outside. I wouldn't climb on them anymore but you could use them for hauling or rigging or something else, like a rap line backup.
Anyone who wants them for free gimme a call, I'm in Vancouver. 778-737-7065
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2013 - 01:54pm PT
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Hanging at the apron with Relic
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jun 30, 2013 - 02:40pm PT
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You're going to bake up there this afternoon!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2013 - 07:27pm PT
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Ya we would've!
Relic ropegunned me up rambles this morning. It was pretty fun, after we got started. Unfortunately a couple beat us to it and decided that they had to do it in four pitches which took forever... Lol
While i waited i posted some pics at the bottom.
Derek Woolgar photo
Me on the traverse
Derek Woolgar photo
Pano from the second belay
Selfie at the top of Rambles! FPFA (First paraplegic free ascent)
Top pano
This was as far as i wanted to go today, we rapped off and went for lunch at Zepyhr.
Thanks for the ride Relic!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 30, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
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Nice one boys! Good to see some tiny cars below u Mike!
I tried to go bouldering today, even had some aspirations until i saw these guys havin a weenie roast on a portaledge on Humpty Dumpty so I yelled at them for awhile from psyche ledge which was so exhausting from the heat that I just ended up sleeping on my crashpad for a bit until I had to go to work. Looks like early starts or night climbing for the next while.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 30, 2013 - 09:26pm PT
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Now we're talking.
31 in squish today but still primo riding in the damp forest
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Jun 30, 2013 - 09:57pm PT
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Got to show some Vermont friends around Squish Friday and Saturday. They had a ton of fun after sloshing around in the previous six days of rain and goo. It was amazing how the sun and light breeze dried out the crags.
Enjoy the holiday tomorrow!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 30, 2013 - 11:40pm PT
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Sh*t, is it just me who's now going: straight or strait?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 30, 2013 - 11:43pm PT
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Sh*t, is it just me who's now going: straight or strait?
All the cool people went gay ages ago, so all the straights who are facing the straitened circumstance of being confused by their straightness are irrelevant to the modern world. And that's the strai(gh)t dope!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Once the mercury passes 30 things get a little confusing.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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I think Hamish is on to something.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Hey BM
It's good to see you are out and about on the rocks again.
But.......I thought that you said, back in the fall, before your snowboarding accident, that you were going to wear a helmet for rockclimbing. Am I wrong about this? Again?
Most people here in the West Koots wear a helmet, or 'helmut' as some STers prefer, but then we live in the sticks!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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I think Mike the big sweaty bastard would have gone blind from helmut sweat if he had one on.
Was a fun day indeed. Got in a Grand Wall boulder sesh, followed by a pity call up to the poor suckas up on Humpty Dumb Tee. I saw very little movement on the portaledge, like roasting carcasses. Met up later with Kyle and Nathan for a nighmare rock joint venture with Perry and Nadine.
Good sweaty times.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Relic it was great to hear you had a good outing with the indomitable Big Mike and a'll but we don't need to hear about what went on after.
Looking solid Mike.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Helmut sweat??
Uh....yikes!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2013 - 11:39pm PT
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Groan... Lol nice one Harry.
Hamie! You are absolutely correct of course. Somehow my twisted logic allowed me to think i didn't have to wear it on top rope... Which is of course not correct, as there are still plenty of risks which can be mitigated by wearing it.. As well as setting a good example for others.
We saw Beer can Al yesterday, working on his new project next to Rambles.
We also stopped by the Casino to check out Nate and Kyle's progress on the Sherrifs Badge.
Nate and Kyle chiling at the base of The Daily Planet.
I was way too tired this morning to get up so we decided to go swimming instead.
It was roasting here today!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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I saw king can Al yesterday & was quite concerned as he was drinking a can of coke instead of the usual Molson Canadian. Hopefully everything is ok...
Are u sure that's the base of the daily planet & not a different planet? Looks like they landed on the super moon in that pic? What happened after they chilled at the base??
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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It was cool in the high country!
We were wearin' puffy jackets up at Athelstan
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2013 - 12:12am PT
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Well, Kyle led the 12a corner with 4 takes and one whip. I'm pretty impressed he even ventured up it!
Nice pic Dru! Looks fun up there!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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That's awesome, good work lurker Kyle!
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Yeah, I took a rather large whip on QuickDraw down below off literally the last move before the anchor, and lost confidence in leading the Planet. We continued up anyways, and there was a party of three there at the base just taking turns leading the first pitch. We hung and shot the sh#t with them for the better part of an hour before Kyle decided that if he didn't attempt it, he'd kick himself for the rest of the day. He did really good on it too, and probably could have done better if '.12a' wasn't so intimidating. He destroyed though, with a full onsight of QuickDraw and then that go at the Planet. By the time he hit the anchors we were in full sun, so I just told him to thread the chains so we could get out of there.
Definitely boosted my confidence watching him do it, and I look forward to getting back up there.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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You're welcome! I wish i didn't have to deal with politics first....
I need to go say hi to Robin anyways. You can't get away from politics, no good deed goes unpunished!
Now that I am a Penticton local, I am amazed how well community standards outweigh personal bolting styles here. I have even added bolts on some of my new projects, after well directed input from local climbers.
No one owns the stone! As much as I respect Robin and consider him a friend, he creates routes to be climbed by the community, which has a right to expect a minimum standard.
His anchors are constantly being replaced in Skaha, and I would not hesitate to replace what I felt were substandard anchors. His routes are not ground up traditional test pieces! To quote Peter Croft “ It’s sport climbing, it’s not supposed to be dangerous”.
My opinion, “Replace all the suspect anchors first, and then list routes on public forums which use staples as protection.” Beginners, especially those climbing in the heavily trafficked areas, deserve to know what they are getting into, perhaps if the staple routes turn into TR routes there may be pressure to replace them.
I also spoke with Robin and John Howe on this issue, John insists that Robin has never supplied any technical / scientific data on his staple installation. Until I see supporting data, I would not advise anyone to consider them comparable to 3/8” stainless steel expansion bolts. In the past I have supported Robin’s practices out of respect for his contribution to the community, after moving here to Skaha, I think consensus should dictate bolting practices.
There are many climbers that have worked on a political level, volunteered for rescue, and contributed as much as Robin to guarantee our continued safe use and access to Squamish, The Bluffs and Skaha. They deserve as much of a voice as the first ascensionists.
Rolf Rybak
CASBC
Regional Director BC Interior
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2013 - 02:55am PT
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Something in the bulletheads?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nope, so funny though how I thought the staples were endangered the other day & now today they were all over the place!!
I like Rolf's post.
Me n' Kieran were scared of the light after being demoralized by the sun & its energy sapping qualities the past few days. so we did a route named after this feeling called Photophobia up at the Klootch buttress.
It offered some fun steep climbing & wonderful shady conditions for a hot, sunny day.
Brownie took the first pitch, some rambly ledgy climbing led up to a steep corner with nice jamming.
I led the second pitch & linked it with supposed crux third pitch, it started with a steep easy wide crack & led to a steeper corner system which culminates with a transfer into a steeper corner system to a nice ledge belay.
After this Kieran took us up the fourth pitch, a fun corner which he linked with the fifth, a slab with three bolts & possibly the technically hardest moves on the route. It was nice to climb this route in 3 long pitches before rapping off.
We still had plenty of daylight to fear so we headed over to the pet wall which was lovely in the afternoon shade. Kieran redpointed the Pheasant & I did the same to elastic man.
There were 2 things that happened at Murrin though that were amazing. First we saw the most sunburnt kid we had ever seen hanging out with his family by the lake, when I say sunburnt, this is a gross understatement. This was next level.
The second was the man we met who accepted the blackwater challenge. Me n a few friends have a running joke where we put an imaginary amount of $$ together every time we are at pet for whoever will make it up blackwater when it is a slimy waterfall. Obviously nobody ever accepts, i think we had the pot @ $45 one time. Well today as a joke these dudes asked what it was & I said "$10 if u send it today", to my amazement one of the dudes sez " I'll give it a burn" lol the whole wall is dry except for blackwater so we negotiate the terms he will get 3 hangs, well obviously he took a lot more than that & a few whippers too but to my amazement he got to the top. F*#king champion, he had never even been on it before!
After that show we headed to the grand wall boulders & got too stoned to climb but bouldered a bit anyway which was interesting then I met up with the wife & dog & headed to brohm for the first swim of the year in the final rays of sun. After that a Tbone was prepared, accompanied by a glass of cheap red someone left at my house to wrap up a most excellent day off in beautiful Squamish where I am currently being devoured by the couch.
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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One month till I'm in Squamptonia. You guys are keeping the stoke alive!
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MH2
climber
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It sure is good to see this thread on the front page, again. AND BIG MIKE ON THE ROCK!!!!
Ryan, Blackwater must get enough traffic to have killed vegetation on the hand and footholds. Bare rock still has reasonable friction when it's wet. But I never tested that on 5.12 or on rock where the holds might be covered in slimy chalk. Good for that guy!
Also avoiding the sun, last Sunday:
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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There has been a rockfall on the Apron, from somewhere near the end of the second pitches of Sickle and Over the Rainbow. It may have occurred on July 1st, and at least one perched block remains.
B.C. Parks has closed the area affected, including the trails leading to all climbs on the central Apron, and all climbs from Diedre to Banana Peel - Diedre, White Lightning, Sickle, Over the Rainbow, Sparrow, and Banana Peel, and the routes and variations between them. All are exposed to further rockfall, especially their lower areas. B.C. Parks is apparently assessing the hazard, and appropriate measures.
See http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_climbing_bb/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=4535 for more.
Here is a photo of the perched block. It's amazing that little tree stopped it! It's unclear whether the rockfall originated there, just above (between the two overhangs on Sickle), or perhaps from the big ledge at the end of the second pitch. There was a large rockfall from this area in the 1960s.
Apparently it's OK to climb routes on the south Apron, approaching via the Slab Alley trail and the Slab Alley or Pineapple Peel start. That is, the Groove, Slab Alley, Pineapple Peel, and Banana Peel and A Troll's Sonnet, coming into the latter two from the right, and avoiding their first two+ pitches.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Word is death block is now gone from Apron.
No idea if it squashed a Lexus on the highway or if somebody sunk some staples into it and longlined it off...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
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It sure is good to see this thread on the front page, again. AND BIG MIKE ON THE ROCK!!!!
Good to be back on the rock! Now about that front page... Lol
Thanks for the post Ryan! Very nice. Looks like fun up there.
We're hanging at murrin today. See if u can figure out where..
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MH2
climber
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Pic 2 looks like the far left of Pet. Maybe pic 1 is the far far left? Nicely different perspectives and intriguing photos wherever they are from.
edit: or pic 1 could be the bolted routes left of Betazoid and Beat the Clock?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2013 - 11:36pm PT
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Ding ding. Doxycycline, Kyle's first 12a? Red point. The other is not far away.
How are you doing Andy? Been getting out much? The Gunks looked fun!
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markr
Trad climber
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The second photo looks like a book from the bible.
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MH2
climber
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Well done Bruce! Thanks for putting that here rather than some non-Squamish place I might have missed it.
I've had a few adventures, Mike. Sandbagging myself on Grand Finale was memorable. I often wonder how you are doing. Hope to get a chance to meet up.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2013 - 02:03am PT
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Awesome Bruce! Thanks for that. Leavenworth and index are definetly on the list at some point. Index looks rad! I gotta come visit you soon and drop your stuff off.
Andy, seems like i could use a rope gun tomorrow. Shoot me a pm if you're interested.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2013 - 03:03am PT
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Jim, did you swim? I bet it was nice up there.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2013 - 11:27pm PT
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Spurt climbing at Calchek
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2013 - 01:42am PT
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They just graded it actually Tami! Best i've seen it.
Probably ever!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2013 - 08:49pm PT
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Sandra and i were in Squamish today for my outpatient physio. After a bite to eat we decided to go check out second ave, Heavy's new effort.
It's another beautiful day.
Second Avenue
Lots of nice moderates here. Thanks for the effort Heavy and crew!
Topos
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
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Stunning evening!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 12, 2013 - 11:46pm PT
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Cool Mike, nice place to spend the evening for sure. Above is Relic sending.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2013 - 12:56pm PT
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Nice Ryan. I heard you guys went and did chewbacca's. how was that?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
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We hung out at pixie corner today.
Another beauty day in Squish.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 13, 2013 - 09:23pm PT
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Cool pano Mike, it was a beauty. Windy too!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2013 - 11:44pm PT
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Windy? Ya.. Lol
We started out on Davey jones's locker, and trained up our new grom buddy Thomas on placing gear. Then when we finished, Pixee Corner was conveniently free so Thomas decided he wanted to try and lead it.
Thomas getting some.
At the roof he got a bit Sketchy and decided to bail. Still pretty good for his first day leading trad!
Sandra stepped up to the plate, and knocked it outta the park!
Nice work babe!
Heather showed up and started talking about leading Joe's crack, so we tossed the rope at the base and said, "Hit it up!"
Heather on Joe's
She took a few whips at the bottom but managed to send it!
Pretty mellow day, but sweet. They wouldn't let me top rope joe's because they were worried i'd pull something... Next time.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2013 - 12:32am PT
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Heck ya! I'm stoked for the show! Are you going to have copies of Alpinist on hand? I can't find it anywhere!
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MH2
climber
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Jul 14, 2013 - 12:42am PT
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Hooray, Squamish Stories and Photos!
I apparently have the irresistible opportunity to post photos which will only appear once the dear old odd staff helping educate subscribers at Photobucket put me back under my bandwidth limit.
Here is a young woman who passed us twice today as the lower half of a simul team.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2013 - 03:56am PT
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Nice MH2!! I wish i could see them.. lol hopefully soon. Flickr is giving away 1 terrabyte free right now you know. :)
got a couple of edits done from today.
Sandra on Davey Jones's Locker
Thomas on the same.
Thomas at the top
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2013 - 11:33am PT
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Bump
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 14, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
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Doesn't this ledge look like a great spot for a party?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
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Looks like a sweet party ledge! Is there any ledges like that on the chief?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 14, 2013 - 03:52pm PT
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Yes but they are covered in trees, except for Memorial.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jul 14, 2013 - 03:56pm PT
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Best party "ledge" isn't a ledge. It's the top of the Bulletheads, overlooking the South-South Gully. Great view, lots of open space, and you avoid the hordes on the top of the south peak.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
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Memorial eh? Hmm...
Glenn, i have yet to check out that side of the bulletheads. Sounds rad!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
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Ahh.. Memorial Ledge! A great place to post live from. I remember this place!
Great place for a party!
What a sick day! More later.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 15, 2013 - 12:44am PT
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^^^^
What a cool picture, Mike!
Good times.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jul 15, 2013 - 01:29am PT
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What's with that blue rope?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2013 - 01:41am PT
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Parapalegic safety line! Kyle and Nina set that up for me!
We just got off the apron. Me and Kieran rapped Bad Pants Party so i didn't have to do the walk off.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jul 15, 2013 - 01:46am PT
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That's a good enough reason! :)
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 15, 2013 - 02:32am PT
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I'm green with envy.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2013 - 02:56am PT
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Wicked Tami. Sounds good. I'll shoot ya a message.
We'll get up there Wayno! You can lead all the pitches too! ;)
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 15, 2013 - 04:08am PT
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"Go ahead, make my day."
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 16, 2013 - 01:09pm PT
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Yup little Marc is killing it these days!
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Jul 16, 2013 - 01:25pm PT
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WOW!!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 16, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
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Nice Marc!
Looks like a good time up on memorial ledge there!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
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Yeah Marc! Crazy link up dude! Congrats!
I'm hanging with Todd and Ben today at Shannon Falls.
Todd on Kalhanie Crack
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mikegrai
climber
ON
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Jul 21, 2013 - 05:51pm PT
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First trip to Squamish - had a blast.
Just got back from two weeks in Squamish, and thanks to incredible weather and great luck with climbing partners, I had an amazing trip.
Things got a bit complicated to start. My flight from Kitchener was delayed when a bee flew into the airspeed indicator tube and Westjet had to get a tech in from Toronto to check things out. I missed my connection in Calgary and had to sleep in the airport ( no rooms available because of the Stampede and flood victims) but got to Vancouver the next morning, picked up my rental car, drove to Squamish, checked into my Airbnb reservation, and crashed.
Next day I was on my own, so I sampled the bouldering at the Great Wall Titanic North and South areas - great fun.
Plam then arrived for a 4 day stay, as planned. At the last minute, Danylo stopped in on the way between Rainier and the Grand Teton. Unexpectedly, he ended up being stranded in Squamish (tough luck!) when his two road companions had return to Toronto immediately because of a climbing injury. He decided to make the best of it and throw in his lot with me for the full two weeks.
We had a great run at moderate classics in the area. I won't go into a blow-by-blow description, but here is a list of Squamish Top 100 (as selected by Marc Bourdon in Squamish Select 2012) routes we ticked off:
Beginner's Luck 5.5 single pitch trad (Murrin Park)
Klahanie Crack 5.7 single pitch trad (Shannon Falls)
Laughing Crack 5.7 single pitch trad (Smoke Bluffs)
Banana Peel 5.7 8 pitches trad (The Apron) - not a bad way to spend my 60th birthday
Sky Walker 5.8 5 pitches trad (Shannon Falls)
Slot Machine 5.8 2 pitches trad (The Bulletheads)
Diedre 5.8 6 pitches trad (The Apron)
Quarryman 5.8 single pitch trad (Smoke Bluffs)
Octopus' Garden in the Shade 5.8 single pitch trad (Smoke Bluffs)
World's Toughest Milkman 5.9 single pitch trad (Murrin Park)
Zoe 5.10a single pitch sport (Murrin Park)
Rocky Horror 5.10a single pitch sport (Area 44)
Skywalker - this is on the namesake traversing pitch four - 5.6 climbing in a fantastic position!
Shannon Falls
Slot Machine - great crack climbing after a bouldery start that seemed a lot harder than 5.8. I had to drop my rack, make a few moves, put in a piece at a so-so stance, haul the rack up and reorganize, then continue on - somewhat nerve wracking! Directly above is Dora's Delight, a mostly bolted 5.8 slab exercise - makes a nice linkup.
We got in many other quality climbs, among the most notable of which was Calculus Crack with the new Direct Start 5.9 6 pitches trad (thanks to Plam for the lead).
We also made it to the top of the Chief via the Squamish Buttress Lite variation (also known as the Butt/Face) recently cleaned by Sonny Trotter and friends (see the story here:http://sonnietrotter.com/2010/07/28/a-long-story-for-the-readers/);. This allows you to bypass the 10c crack bottleneck pitch on the regular Buttress Route. There are two cruxes - a 5.9 thin crack/ flake and an awkward 5.8 half chimney / off width. Danylo and I had done two Apron routes earlier in the trip, so we hiked to the top of the Apron, then climbed Boomstick Crack 5.7 2 pitches (cool feature) to access the forest above Broadway Ledge. We next hiked through the forest to the start of the regular Buttress route, climbed its first 4 pitches, then the 3 pitches of the Butt Lite.
Crux 5.9 section on Butt Lite
We managed to make our way through the crux pitches and wandered our way up ledges on the final pitch to a glorious day on the summit.
Near the top, we had been able to watch two young ladies dance their way up Gravity Bong 5.13a on The Prow. Oh, to be young and skillful!
There are few more pictures here:http://www.flickr.com/photos/28211510@N00/sets/72157634716710441/with/9329943920/
As someone on the forum suggested would happen when I first enquired about Squamish, I upped my trad leading grades on this trip. At home on the Escarpment I consider myself a fairly solid 5.7 trad leader, but I eventually got my nerve up to lead 5.9 pitches, and even onsighted a 5.10a single pitch on gear. I'm not sure that the climbing moves are that much easier at the grade, but it is often easier to get more good placements, and you are more confident that they will hold a fall. For me, that means trad climbing much closer to my sport onsight grade than I would dare on slimestone. Possibly the grades are a little softer in general, but there a few "classics" that are in no way soft. If you have some crack technique, all is good. The slab grades aren't particularly soft, and there are some eye-opening runouts on the moderates. I lead the 5.7 variation of pitch 2 on Banana Peel, and it was wildly runout. If I had come off that, I don't know where I would have ended up!
We were very impressed with the quantity and quality of new area and route development taking place. This is creating "instant classics" such as Skywalker and Rocky Horror, with the result that the climbers are spread out and taking some of the pressure off the old classics such as Diedre. These new areas (such as Area 44, Commonwealth and Valley of the Lost Tribe at Murrin Park, and Lumberland and Second Avenue at Smoke Bluffs) are very well documented both in the guidebook and online http://quickdrawpublications.com/free-topos/, http://projectclimb.com/665091D1506A409CCD29/a/climbing/Area_44.aspx); At the crags, there are trails, benches, signage, even laminated topos! I know there are reasons why this doesn't exist here, but it certainly gives one a taste of how sweet things can be! Some of the route developers are profiled in this Gripped story: http://gripped.com/2011/11/sections/articles/the-diggers/
Life is good in Squamish - with the hot days we developed a pattern of getting up early, climbing to mid-afternoon, heading home for food and a siesta, then climbing in the evening until near dark. The town has all the services you could need in a compact area, and there is excellent craft beer to be had at Howe Sound Brewing. I have a feeling I will be back!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 21, 2013 - 07:35pm PT
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Cool stuff mikegrai!
Thanks for the TR.
One teeny correction tho, the 10c pitch on the buttress is no longer a bottleneck, it actually is rarely climbed since the advent of the buttface, which is nice because it actually keeps traffic moving a little better. Cheers!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 23, 2013 - 12:54am PT
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Just back from three days in Squ'ish. Didn't take any pictures, but had the good fortune to run into Big Mike up on Shannon Falls Wall on Saturday, and then again at dinner that night.
And speaking of Shannon Falls Wall, y'all should get your asses up to the far right end, and get on Chewbacca. It's the re-scrubbed version of an ancient aid route called Snot. Three really good pitches of immaculately clean granite. I don't know who did the re-scrub, but my hat is off to him/her/them. Great route in a great position.
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MH2
climber
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Jul 23, 2013 - 01:18am PT
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Good choice. We were preceded on the route by Nina and Kyle and Ryan and probably many others.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 23, 2013 - 01:37am PT
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bump, and thanks y'all.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 23, 2013 - 02:17am PT
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Yeah Chewbacas was fun.
So is sunset strip. Lots of short, fun 5.10 pitches, many can be linked.
So many fun new routes here, it's ridiculous. Hats off to all the climbers who unearth these routes.
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MH2
climber
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Jul 23, 2013 - 10:13am PT
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The route developers work hard. They are also good at reading subtle clues in the rock.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 24, 2013 - 12:27am PT
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sticky fingers
didn't that used to be 5.9 and it's 10c now?
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MH2
climber
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Jul 24, 2013 - 12:32am PT
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It was 5.9 the way Slot Machine is 5.8. Hard moves off the ground are often discounted. Colin fixed that.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Jul 24, 2013 - 01:57am PT
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Wow what a great scrub on Sticky Fingers. Ivan dragged that big boulder to the base of the route with a come a long to get past the first few blank moves.
A bit of trivia, I named the route Sticky finger after someone stole my fixed scrubbing rope from the route, and for months afterwards I would find sections of it as rap anchours in Squamish.
And finally a long over due confession with a bit of a preamble.
I met Ivan just after the white painter pants era in Squamish and just at the start of the lycra period. I saw him soloing 5.7 cracks in cowboy boots, jeans, and a mackinaw shirt. Being curious about this enigma, I struck up a conversation with the shy giant, he explained pointy cowboy boots worked really well in the cracks. He was definitely not your typical Squamish climber. Back then this 210 LB tough logger sported tats all over his arms , hands and neck, with a bee on his right fist to remind you how that could sting. Back then he wore his baseball cap backwards long before it was hip or popular. Definitely a redneck loner, but I was impressed by his raw talent.
I introduced him to the world of Squamish cracks and slabs. which he mastered dam quickly and during the 5-7 years we climbed together he danced his way up some of the hardest slab climbs in Squamish and together we put up our share of soon to be forgotten first ascents.
So back to Sticky Fingers, after a few weeks of climbing with me, I introduced Ivan to scrubbing and digging out first ascents. I had poked around the base of the Rutabaga and seen a great 5.10 crack line that was guarded by a blank 5.12 slab. Ivan in his innocence saw an obvious solution. take a come-a-long ,drag a two ton boulder to the base as a convenient cheater stone. An obvious solution but still short of getting to the coveted crack which I had already scrubbed. We agreed to meet next Saturday and work out a solution, in retrospect I guess I should have spent a bit more time explaining the ethics of climbing to Ivan.
Next Saturday, a typical dismal drizzling day in Squamish, Ivan was already at the base of the route and as I hiked up, I heard this repeated cha ching, cha ching, of metal on rock. I arrived and to my horror Ivan had chiseled some convenient scoops to get past the blank slab, in his naivety he found the obvious solution! I enlightened him on the ethical transgression he had just committed, raced back to town, bought a can of blackish granite spray paint while he rounded out the obvious chip marks and then we blended them in with a well camouflaged paint job.
The route went at a fine moderate 5.10 minus grade with a cruxy slab start to gain the crack. This probably wasn’t the first route to be enhanced at Squamish, but it was definitely Ivan’s only and last. We had a quite a few more misadventures over the next few years but also many great times.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Jul 24, 2013 - 06:39pm PT
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Ryan and I linked up Border Line to High Plains Drifter yesterday and had a Totally Rad time.
If the "Chief" happens across this post; any stories, or interesting info concerning the F.A. would be super cool..
what a beaty crack, from the stream of cool air leaking forth from the bowels of the chief, to the wild position on the arete, to the wild burn one feels as they muscle through the last moves to the chains, it is by far some of the best climbing either of us have encountered on the squamish big stone.
kudos to all who paved the way for us weenies..
brownie
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 24, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
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All this action is keeping this armchair athlete thoroughly motivated for some when life settles down a bit.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 24, 2013 - 10:23pm PT
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All this action is keeping this armchair athlete thoroughly motivated for some when life settles down a bit.
Best wishes for that Harry.
I was hoping to see you at the festival, but maybe next time...
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 25, 2013 - 09:42am PT
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Thanks Dave for that. I certainly would of liked to made it up to meet you and all the other skallywags and enjoy Tami's presentation. Also with all this route development it's going to seem like a brand new venue when I start my second childhood. There have been a few setbacks but other than that my wife is doing very well.
Anymore mysterious rope disappearances?
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jul 25, 2013 - 10:57am PT
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Fantastic stories just keep coming from ya'll! Finally in the last week of waiting before my 2nd Squamish trip (1st was years back for skiing up the road). Hopefully I can score some great shots and share them. You guys think we'll see an increase in traffic, and fewer camping options due to Crankworx being held in 2 weeks?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 25, 2013 - 12:21pm PT
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Thread drift here, but speaking of Crankworx, here's a video from last year...
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 27, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
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Live report from Squamish.
If u look at the Squaw in the next hr or so u may see a couple supersqamptians not wearing jeans up on pipeloads. Good luck boys.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jul 27, 2013 - 06:37pm PT
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Good luck, Ryan! I want to hear how it went.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2013 - 06:49pm PT
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I can see them!! It looks like the leader is just about to start ripping some flesh! ;)
Send it boys! Hope you taped your backs! Lol
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 27, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
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Haha no not me Tricouni, I have the pleasure of working tonight instead.
& i'd be wearing jeans for sure!
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jul 29, 2013 - 10:40am PT
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I had cords that I changed into before climbing. They now have a hole in them along with various parts of my left side. It was pretty much a slaughter. I did alright until about halfway to the bolt. Then I couldn't figure out how to progress up, got panicy, and pulled on cams till I clipped the bolt and didn't feel like I was going to die anymore.
Lowered off, Brownie gave it a shot, results not being much better than mine. We decided that finishing up BoP would be a better option than flaying ourselves in Pipeline and bailed.
Now I gotta train on the wyde, go back, redeem myself.
Big thanks to BK and RyanD for lending us big gear to use.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jul 29, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
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Is still a beast.
Was a beast on aid, too. Trust me.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jul 29, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
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Tami, had that at the forefront of my mind the entire time. It's hard to comprehend that until you're in there.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 29, 2013 - 02:04pm PT
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Good effort Nate & Brownie. I'm glad u at least threw some pants on, I'm guessing Brownie didn't tho:-)
So what's the prerequisites for pipeline in Squamish (aka how do u get ready for this thing)??
-Beaver
-tantalus crack
-good chimney at the top of sunset strip
-chimney on parallel passages
-few days at cirque of uncrackables
-hypertension
Any others??
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jul 29, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
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I can see Tantalus crack being useful. Boogie probably. Everything else would be too narrow or too wide. It's not a chimney, it's full on awfulwidth. After the bolt, it gets a bit wider, to the point where someone really tiny might get in there.
I'm not that bright, so I'm looking to go back once my elbow and ankle heal up. Prepare properly next time. Might have been able to make it a bit further if I didn't feel like I was going to grind my foot off.
If Brownie isn't down, any other takers?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 29, 2013 - 03:20pm PT
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If Brownie isn't down, any other takers?
No thanks. But if you're looking for practice, The Scimitar (just a bit left of Boogie) could go on your list.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jul 29, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
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Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side might be a good warm-up.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 29, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
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Way to go guys. It's clear the way to prepare for pipeline is a pipeload. I also have a #5 and #6 that I'd be willing to lend out for the next round plus I have one of these suits.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 29, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
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Hahaha I like how the recommends for pipeline training are many atl 5.11 while pipeloads itself is what 10c??
I'll go up there with u in a few weeks Nathan, once I'm feeling better & for sure if Harry's suit is a 34.
I bet MH2 has done it, anyone else??
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MH2
climber
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Jul 29, 2013 - 07:32pm PT
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I bet MH2 has done it
Ha, ha! I've rapped down beside it so I'm not afraid of it, but the 'closest' I've come is a partner who has the gear for it and says we should get on it.
I'd like to thank Soloclimber for having the experience I have always imagined on that route.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jul 29, 2013 - 08:56pm PT
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Is that Robo unplugged? I think he had a wide fetish for a while, according to him its pretty good :)
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thesiger
climber
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Is this the right thread to big up Alpinist #43 - the Squamish focus edition? Beautifully-crafted central article by Tami, nicely intertwining her parents experience of mountaineering here before the road was built with all sorts of other time shifts and perspectives (*). Great Slab Alley piece by Anders too.
* well maybe slightly too polite to our local casino/ electronic signboard operators in the last but one paragraph for my taste ... but that's detail.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Heads up, somebody died today in Squamish in a climbing accident. SAR not back yet, no name released
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sad, very unfortunate. Relic and I were beneath the North Walls and heard the heli, as well as saw the SAR team in the main parking lot. Thought it was just another regular long weekend epic.
Very sorry to hear that.
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c-plus
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC, Canada
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dang that's terrible. i saw a chopper doing a long line recovery around 8.
my condolences to all involved...
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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The news says it was a hiker that fell off the top of first peak. What's first peak? I don't speak hiking trail. How the f*#k do you fall off the top of the Chief?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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BK!
This is starting to sound familiar. Are u bored? Should we start a new thread for Anders?
You did remind me however that Anders & myself lost a bet & owe some $ to the access society. What was it again? $50 ? Can't remember.Anders?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Bruce you know damn well thissiz a hot button topic and has raised blood pressures to the boiling point.
Are people still revved up over this?
And sorry to hear about the hiker.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I read the comments in Oplo's link above, and yup, someone has already called for safety ropes across "that ledge."
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Perhaps it was a lost or misled hiker, on the approaches to Bellygood?
There are also places on the upper part of the south summit trail where if you stray off it, you could quickly get into difficulties, not always readily apparent. More or less where the traverse off from the top of the Roman Chimneys gets to the forest.
#6,000, for Big Mike.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Yikes, this is terrible news re: falling off bellygood. Condolences to family & friends.
Bruce, hoping to head up there in a few weeks. Any word on how beat in that trail is? Should i bring the machete? I'll give u a shout for some beta before we go. Cheers.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Pretty grusome tragedy for sure. I heard there was a large chunk of rock that dislodged from the sword pitch an hour before she fell, an unrelated occurance of course. It just missed climbers below.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Bump!
What is this one. Tell me & I'll show another. Should be easy.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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My condolences to the family of the victim. That's sad news.
Just got back from a first visit to Squamish. It's an interesting town. The rock is great. The views from the top are fantastic. Mt. Garibaldi beckons like a siren.
We hiked to the top of the second summit. There are definitely places where you could get into big trouble.
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MH2
climber
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Looks like Agonal, Ryan.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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I thought that would be easy for u guys!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 16, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
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I was going to put this on the Gondola thread, but it seems to have vanished...
This was written by Frank Baumann and is reposted with his permission. I'm not trying to stir up any old wasp nests that may have been generated in the Gondola thread; it's for info only.
Dave Southam, the District Manager at the Squamish office of the Ministry of Forests, Lands, and Natural Resource Operations has informed me that the public road across Crown Land from the Stawamus River into the Shannon Creek watershed will be gated at a point behind the Stawamus Chief where the road was blocked for many years by rockfall. You will be able to walk or bike from there to the Mt. Habrich, Sky Pilot, Petgill Lake, and Goat Ridge areas- but you won't be able to drive a vehicle up there as was the case for many, many years.
Dave also confirmed that this is being done to help preserve the commercial interests of the Sea to Sky Gondola gang, who don't want the public to be able to just drive up there and use their facilities at the top station of the gondola.
I believe the Sea to Sky Gondola gang should not be allowed to restrict access to a public road and Crown Land. If they want to protect their commercial interests, they should do what most other private companies are required to do: erect a fence and place signs along the boundary of their tenure area to keep non-paying people out.
If you feel, as I do, that this move to restrict access to Crown Land sets a dangerous precedent, especially given the long term historic use of this beautiful Alpine watershed by mountaineers and hikers, then take a moment to express your concerns to Dave at the following address:
Dave Southam, District Manager, Ministry of Forests, Lands and Natural Resource Operations Sea to Sky District Suite 101-42000 Loggers Lane Squamish BC V8B 0H3
Telephone: 604 898-2100 Facsimile: 604 898-2191 E-Mail: Forests.SquamishDistrictOffice@gov.bc.ca
You might also want to send a copy of your letter to the Minister responsible at the following address:
The Honourable Steve Thomson PO Box 9049 STN PROV GOVT VICTORIA, BC V8W 9E2
Telephone: 250 387-6240 Fax: 250 387-1040 Email: FLNR.Minister@gov.bc.ca
Of course, it's a lost cause, and exactly what I and others predicted.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 16, 2013 - 05:26pm PT
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Thanks Tricouni. I'm not too surprised by this either.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Aug 16, 2013 - 07:27pm PT
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Tough call on that one, I was under the impression that after the kids rolled off that cliff the forest folks put the boulder blockade up to stop people from going up in cars. When I asked Jayson Faulkner about it he said that at worse the gate would be at the old boulder blockade but with a parking lot...at best it would be at or near the memorial.
So in that sense we never had access and we were never going to...furthermore for quite a while they gated the road right at the turn off for Mamquam to stop people from going up the Stawamus...so its really tough to buy Franks argument even if I agree that we should be able to drive to the Habrich trail head as we could many years before.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 16, 2013 - 07:45pm PT
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So are you saying that it's ok for forestry to allow a private company exclusive access to what was a public road??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2013 - 10:00pm PT
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Agreed Tami. There should be a fence for their tenure, but the road should remain open.
Nice pics Ryan! Thanks for all your contributions here lately man. Visions of places I dream to hang. Truly inspirational.
Thanks to everyone else who contributes here as well. This thread is amazing because of the people who choose to hang here.
My condolences to friends and family of the unfortunate hiker. Quite an unfortunate tragedy.
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MH2
climber
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Aug 16, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
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Back at you, Big Mike. This thread has done wonders in giving Squamish a presence on Supertopo.
Could traffic on that road really be much of a threat to the commercial interests of the gondola operation? Would the washrooms be over-used? It seems to me that only a very marginal business would be hurt by people arriving up there by car rather than gondola.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 16, 2013 - 10:40pm PT
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Forestry companies get to gate logging roads all the time?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 16, 2013 - 10:51pm PT
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NBD on the gated road, it'll only be like that for a year until they go out of biz & we get to bail them out :-)
Thanks Mike, hope ur doin good buddy! Call me soon if ur down.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 16, 2013 - 10:55pm PT
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Forestry companies get to gate logging roads all the time?
Yes, during active logging, for safety and to protect the expensive logging equipment from getting shot up. Usually, after they finish, the gates are remomved. (There have been exceptions.)
In this case, if it's too unsafe for the public to drive up, it's probably too unsafe for the gondola workers. The solution then is to fix the road, make it safe, and allow everyone up.
It was the company that chose the landing spot, not forestry. I have no doubt that they chose that spot so that they could drive to the top.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Aug 17, 2013 - 12:13am PT
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Ok this sounds like a good issue for the Access society. Access to the Anderson River Peaks always involved obtaining the key from Cattermole Logging, the same for Mt Urquhart.
Get busy folks, and contact John Brody ,jbrodie@access-society.ca or Dave Jones djones@access-society.ca ( no not Davy the old Squamish slab climber)
If you really want access, people need to get involved now and start negotiations, perhaps a key available for CASBC members, with a blanket liability waiver.
I am now the CASBC area rep for the interior and we have our own hornets nest of brewing access issues, my approach is to be proactive on potential issues, don't wait until the gate is up and FLNR has established a management plan.
FLNR district land managers understand politics and financial clout, there are Squamish climbers financial impact studies to make local climbers credible stakeholders and there is also evidence of historical land use. If the area is designate a Wilderness Management Area, (doubtful but possible) the FLNR manager has unlimited powers under the Parks Act to restrict access and designate land use.
Anders isn’t around to carry the ball on this one , its time for the old school crowd and the new kids to step up and get involved. There is enough talent on this forum to get her done.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 17, 2013 - 11:15am PT
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Basically, a logging road isn't a maintained public road, and a gate on a logging road doesn't prevent access to Crown land, as you can still walk or bike it.
That said, gates mostly go in to protect equipment from the yahoo brigade, and nowadays a gate doesn't do much to restrict quads and dirt bikes who usually build trail around an obstacle within 15 minutes of it going up.
So to avoid that you pretty much have to put a gate where there's a cliff in the cutslope and a big drop off below... or in the middle of a bridge
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 17, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
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Who paid for the construction of the road in question in the first place? Was it us? The faithful old taxpayers? I think I remember reading that was the case on the old gondy thread. What right would we have to access it? Same right we have to protect class A provincial parks so future generations can enjoy them in their natural state for perpetuity i guess.
Some good rainy day reading.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1783675&tn=0&mr=0
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 17, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
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Even when the road is blocked at the bottom it's not that big of a deal. I arrived at the gate early one morning all bummed that it was locked. My plan was Sky Pilot and I was trying to think of a last minute alternative as I wasn't interested in adding that slog. Eventually I just decided to go for it on my mountain bike and the lower part went very quickly with only some minor pushing of the bike and the descent was awesome.
I always wanted to invent a 5lb fold up bike that you could roll down the logging roads with and save your knees.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 17, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
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Posted on Fb by Friends of the Chief:
A message from the responsible official in the Ministry of Forests:
"• The status of the road will essentially be the same as it's been for approx. the last 20 years.
• Yes the S2S gondola has the proper authority to install a gate. A gate has been approved to be installed on the FSR which restricts vehicular access at the same location the public has been able to drive to. The S2S gondola is building a small parking area that will be located near the gate to accommodate people heading into the back country. Public access is being maintained and there is nothing preventing people from walking/cycling up the road past the gate.
• I think the overall condition of the road and access into the areas you describe will actually be improved. I have been told that the improvements to the road are providing for increased access to popular rock climbing routes.
• One of the factors considered before approving the gate was that the S2S gondola is bringing significant investment into our community and they were concerned about having unrestricted vehicle traffic driving up to their upper station while guests were paying to get there from the bottom. The installation of the gate was approved to allow them to get their business concept up and running. The effectiveness/requirement of a gate may be looked at in the future once the business has had time to become established."
Contact:
Dave Southam, District Manager,
Ministry of Forests, Lands and Natural Resource Operations
Sea to Sky District
Suite 101-42000 Loggers Lane
Squamish BC
V8B 0H3
Telephone: 604 898-2100
Facsimile: 604 898-2191
E-Mail: Forests.SquamishDistrictOffice@gov.bc.ca
Steve Thomson
Ministry of Forests, Lands and Natural Resource Operations
PO Box 9049
STN PROV GOVT
VICTORIA, BC
V8W 9E2
Telephone: 250 387-6240
Fax: 250 387-1040
Email: FLNR.Minister@gov.bc.ca
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MH2
climber
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Aug 17, 2013 - 07:31pm PT
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Reid was a straight-ahead type. There seem to me to be at least 3 loosely connected thoughts, here:
One of the factors considered before approving the gate was that the S2S gondola is bringing significant investment into our community and they were concerned about having unrestricted vehicle traffic driving up to their upper station while guests were paying to get there from the bottom.
Although it is considerate of S2S to protect their guests from being told, "We just drove up."
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 17, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
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Haha good one Bruce, your point is valid. BTW I got a Mazda, not a Prius :-)
Edit- why doesn't climbing content spark interest in this thread but local politics we have collectively beaten to death brings everyone outta the woodwork? We've already been thru all this, no?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2013 - 08:42pm PT
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Thanks MH2 and Ryand. Hope to hang out soon!
Sorry to interrupt this discussion, but i thought i'd post a little climbing porn.
I've been out a bit lately. A couple weeks ago we went up to Split Beaver.
Heather wanted to get on Heavenly Ladder, 5.9
Heather in the slot.
She took a couple whips trying to get up this section.
Fun fingers
And a little stemming.
I top roped it after and the wide got the best of me. I got up the rig, but just barely and it wore me down. Bigtime.
Took this shot three weeks ago when Kyle and Nina were kind enough to ropegun Sandra and i up High mountain woody and Stephanie's tears. Nina also put up slap and tickle which killed me. The left foot work on the diagonal traverse was quite difficult with the sensory issues i still have.
Kyle at the Malemute
Kyle finally got his Redpoint on the beav! He sent it in style!!
Kyle Jammin the Beaver
Navigating the wide
I managed to jam halfway up this sucker before the skin on the back of my right hand started to grid away and i thought better of it. Tape next time, for sure!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2013 - 09:39pm PT
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Thanx for that Tami! I didn't quite get to the dry heave part Greg! Next time for sure! Lol
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 17, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
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I kinda wonder if there isn't gonna be a renaissance of interest in the Sky Pilot Group.
Mayhap Mr. Kruk, schooled by Patagonian boltless climbing, or Mr Trotter, with numerous nearly gearless 5.14 redpoints under his belt, or even tiny little Marc-Andre with his albatross-like wingspan and tungsten steel balls, will finally be the suitor who summons up the sac to free the Douglas/Starr on Ledge or even free the original route on Tombstone Tower ;)
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 17, 2013 - 11:03pm PT
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Mayhap Mr. Kruk, schooled by Patagonian boltless climbing, or Mr Trotter, with numerous nearly gearless 5.14 redpoints under his belt, or even tiny little Marc-Andre with his albatross-like wingspan and tungsten steel balls, will finally be the suitor who summons up the sac to free the Douglas/Starr on Ledge or even free the original route on Tombstone Tower ;)
Yes, they'd both go free. For the original route on Tombstone, a crashpad or two might not be a bad idea. Once you are over the lip it's easier.
Note the full-shank boots and the rat's nest of aid slings made from 1/4" parachute cord.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 18, 2013 - 12:19am PT
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I climbed SkyPilot, Ledgelette and Ledge pregnant. Nearly puked my guts out hikin' back to camp.......
That's a tough day, Tami, pregnant or not. Especially in the late summer or fall when the scree is in full bloom, so to speak.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 18, 2013 - 04:35am PT
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Awesome photos. That's what I'm talking about.
Tricouni, you remember this one?
Tami, zoom zoom :-)
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 18, 2013 - 11:13am PT
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Ryan, I think it was a lot bushier last time I was up it...
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 18, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
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Identify this professional belayer for a free beer at the Brew pub
Julien working on his crack technique
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
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Hey!! I know that guy! It's Jim Brennan!!
Julien's looking good Harry! He'll be climbing 5.13 in no time! ;)
Ryan, I think it was a lot bushier last time I was up it...
Glenn, wasn't everything bushier when you did it? Lol.
Bruce, you hit the nail on the head!! I started this thread to lure tales out of the og's by jogging your memories with pictures!!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 18, 2013 - 12:55pm PT
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Mike, I suppose your going to ask for a tall boy?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2013 - 01:25pm PT
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Yes please Harry! Rail Ale preferably!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 18, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
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Hey Bruce. Yeah, yeah, grab the sloping arête with your left, stand up into the right under cling, smear left foot, dead point to the half pad sloping crimp, hand foot match, rock over & press it out. Press it out. Press it out!
Yes, I come to ST for climbing- f*#ked up isn't it? Regardless, it's good to have something happening on this thread again & see y'all posting up, even if it takes bringing up new news about old news & giving it a quick flash in the pan.
I am going to try & stick to the script tho....
Harry, good to see you guys getting out!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 18, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
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No idea?! I'm guessing RBs partner on the climb named it?
:-) edit- something to do with the original hardware? Lol.
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MH2
climber
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Aug 18, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
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If these don't speak for themselves, maybe someone can speak for them.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 18, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
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Is it called Agonal because it follows a Diagonal dike but it has bolts so you won't Di?
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MH2
climber
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Aug 18, 2013 - 04:43pm PT
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Yes, Bruce is the someone I was thinking of. The second photo is indeed DRR.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
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Drr looks Rad! So does Agonal! Thanks for the pics guys!
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squamishmonkey
Trad climber
Squamish
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Aug 18, 2013 - 09:38pm PT
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A little Squamish eye candy?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 18, 2013 - 11:20pm PT
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My Little Pony to be precise
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squamishmonkey
Trad climber
Squamish
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Aug 19, 2013 - 12:24am PT
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Try this one...A little more obscure.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 19, 2013 - 01:08pm PT
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Nice shots Eric!
What's the pony rack?
Fatty Bolger or something near there?
That crack up the middle of the pox looks real good.
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squamishmonkey
Trad climber
Squamish
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Aug 19, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
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The rack for "My Little Pony" is a normal rack plus a few extra BD-2s 3s and a 4. The trick is not to place the 2s as they take your best hand jams away, place the 3s and 4s plus there is a bolt at the lip to keep the crack from eating your rope as you pull the lip.
The photo is not from the Bluffs, have another guess.
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micro_marc
Gym climber
Squamish
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Aug 19, 2013 - 09:33pm PT
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That's the Vorpal Sword isn't it Eric? Awesome route.
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squamishmonkey
Trad climber
Squamish
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Aug 19, 2013 - 09:39pm PT
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Yep.. The Vorpal Sword.
Want Another?
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squamishmonkey
Trad climber
Squamish
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Aug 19, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
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This one is a little harder, BK might know?
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micro_marc
Gym climber
Squamish
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Aug 19, 2013 - 10:05pm PT
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squamishmonkey
Trad climber
Squamish
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Aug 19, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
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New Start to Cerberus.
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micro_marc
Gym climber
Squamish
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Aug 19, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
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Close Eric, wasn't really for the guessing game though, too obvious. That was when I was bolting the last pitch of Labyrinth, which follows the uppermost 'lateral' dyke Jim just mentioned, finishing above and right of Cerberus, after crossing back and forth over Wrist Twister. Great features up there.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Aug 20, 2013 - 12:32am PT
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Opo, and MH2 not allowed to comment...anyone ever get on this little gem ?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 20, 2013 - 01:00am PT
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Opo, and MH2 not allowed to comment...anyone ever get on this little gem ?
That sure doesn't look like Squamish...
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Aug 20, 2013 - 09:57am PT
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Its in the Squamish guide...
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Aug 20, 2013 - 04:58pm PT
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Of course GF, I take it you have been on this route then? Superb to have it back in condition, thanks to who ever resurrected it!
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Aug 20, 2013 - 05:24pm PT
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That was easy, guess I will have to try and get even more obscure to stump guys like you...
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Aug 20, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
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This one is a little harder, BK might know?
Mouses Tooth ?
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Slabby D
Trad climber
B'ham WA
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Aug 20, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
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Liberty Crack. Not exactly in Squampton.
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squamishmonkey
Trad climber
Squamish
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Aug 20, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
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Yep Liberty Crack...(Not in Squamish but still a day trip from here)
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Adrian MacNair
Boulder climber
Vancouver
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Aug 21, 2013 - 12:11am PT
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Went to the Grand Wall today, saw some guys above the sword.
Some more people were climbing right of Exsperator but I wasn't there to climb myself just showing the youngins the boulders
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2013 - 12:35am PT
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Those gentlemen look to be on the free grand! The second is coming across from the underfling. Very impressive.
Thanks for the pics Adrian! And everyone else too! Eric, Marc, very nice to see you post here.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 21, 2013 - 12:45am PT
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Here's a purty little unclimbed crag up near Pemby
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 21, 2013 - 12:58am PT
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Here's a purty little unclimbed crag up near Pemby
More than a few of those up that way.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 21, 2013 - 01:10am PT
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Yeah but this one might have a transmission line by the base soon.
Bruce can sled in and mix climb those leaning corners in the middle
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markr
Trad climber
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Aug 21, 2013 - 05:43pm PT
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Adrian, that shot of the base of the Grand is quite something. Nice work.
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MH2
climber
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Aug 23, 2013 - 01:13am PT
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Right above the campground and not a mystery, but not often seen with people on it:
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 23, 2013 - 01:54am PT
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Woaaaaaah! Andy! ^^^^**
Quality.
That's awesome, don't think I've ever seen anyone up there.
Who's done it?
What's up with the crack on the right?
Lots of good pics here. Really cool.
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MH2
climber
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Aug 23, 2013 - 11:18am PT
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Who has done it:
Greg Cameron and George Manson in 1979.
a little about George Manson:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1618401&msg=1813715#msg1813715
(Utah) Steve Seats and Kevin McLane in 2002, lefthand finish
Matt Maddaloni and John Furneaux in 2004, direct finish
Alan(sp?) the professional trail-builder who worked a few summers on the Grouse Grind
Gord Ross who took the picture of John Furneaux on it that is in McLane 2005
2 guys 10 days ago
That's my list.
The crack on the right is Turkey Shoot, 11b, Fred Beckey and Dave Beckstead in 1966, FFA Kai Hirvonen and Andre Ike in 2004
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MH2
climber
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Aug 23, 2013 - 10:32pm PT
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You'll be okay if you can avoid a Squamish car in Sonoma.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Aug 23, 2013 - 11:15pm PT
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Wild Turkey
I shared the belay with Tom Gibson as Greg Cameron led it on sight in shorts circa 1980
Not my cup of tea at the time so I gave it a miss.
Not often travelled as 10+ flared chimneys don't compel too many.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Aug 24, 2013 - 05:16pm PT
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Hey I know those guys on the grand!! Sweet photo Adrian
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 27, 2013 - 01:58am PT
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Aug 27, 2013 - 02:06am PT
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Clean Crack for post 6100!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 27, 2013 - 02:56am PT
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I see a Brownie but who is on the clean looking crack?
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Aug 27, 2013 - 09:43am PT
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So, that's Wild Turkey? Jeez, I don't remember even a little about it. I DO remember drinking Wild Turkey after the FA (or was it before?). Thanks for the post up, MH2. I'm gonna save this one.
Even though I can't remember anything about it, my guess is that the guy in the picture is doing it wrong side in.
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MH2
climber
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Aug 27, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
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Yes, great picture, Ryan. A different distance and living planet eco-tones instead of just the RR ambience.
That pale patch above Brownie's shoulder:
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 27, 2013 - 12:41pm PT
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Thanks guys, the start used to be way easier when that sign was there :-) Alex is the climber.
So what's up with last train to Hicksville? Any one ever climb it besides chief?? It's got a leaver biner as all his 5.12 routes do, but damn it's a pretty cool looking line.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 27, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
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Nice gf! Getting some!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 27, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
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Tim McAllister took this shot of my balding pate on chewbacca last week -the highly enjoyable 3 pitcher on shannon creek wall
We climbed Chewbacca early this summer and thought the same -- great climb in a great location.
There is lots of terrific climbing on that wall and it's great to see old routes being cleaned up and new routes being put up. Some really cool stuff just to the right of Chewbacca, for sure.
Does anyone still climb "Poultry in Motion"? I remember that as a full-value route, and with all the traffic on Skywalker and the other new and refurbished stuff on Gobsmacking Wall there must be hundreds of climbers walking by it on the descent these days.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 27, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
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I remember the Caboose arete listed as a top-rope problem in the guidebook. The name Keith fukin Reid attached to it as I recall vaguely.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Aug 27, 2013 - 09:59pm PT
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I take back my earlier assertion. Right-side-in is looking like the right way to do Wild Turkey. I should have just shut up after telling you I don't remember it so well.
It's a beautiful-looking climb...beautiful, wish I remembered it better.
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MH2
climber
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Aug 28, 2013 - 12:02am PT
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Wild Turkey is a beautiful line on brilliant rock in a great setting. But it is the Devil in it that makes it so attractive.
Might not help the memory, but here is the rest of the main pitch.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 28, 2013 - 12:54am PT
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But it is the Devil in it that makes it so attractive.
I can see two guys in the picture. Which one of them is the Devil?
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MH2
climber
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Aug 28, 2013 - 10:44am PT
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I wish i had stayed long enough to find out. I had just dropped Robert off at his van and was taking the pictures from down by the highway. It was evening and I had a perfectly good reason to get home though I can't remember what it was.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 29, 2013 - 02:24am PT
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Here's an easy one. Bonus points for the climber (because I'm not sure...)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 29, 2013 - 03:14am PT
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Mushroom.
Hamie :-)
Awesome shot!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 29, 2013 - 11:25am PT
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The bolt ladder on Mushroom! That things gotta be A4 now with all the rust...
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 29, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
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Yep, the bolt ladder on Mushroom. Seemed pointless to me then. Seems pointless to me now.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 29, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
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Seemed pointless to me then. Seems pointless to me now.
Clipping my way up that ladder was far less enjoyable than nailing the crack below, that's for sure.
Yes, that was the way I first climbed Mushroom -- with a rack of angles and a hammer. Weird, but pretty normal at the time.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 29, 2013 - 01:28pm PT
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Yep, that's how I got up it, too. Times change, don't they?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 29, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
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I think my first time on Mushroom may have been with MH2 and if it was it was the climb that persuaded me to switch from Ballets to something less clunky.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 29, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
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Yep, that's how I got up it, too. Times change, don't they?
The very first time I climbed it my job was removing the pins my partner had banged in. When I reached the belay, he said "Don't look down, but a carload of people have stopped and are watching us." He gave me a bunch of slack and said "Let's give them something to remember."
So I let out a blood-curdling scream and leaped off.
I don't remember how much slack he'd given me -- probably not more than eight or ten feet -- but I'm sure it was enough to give the spectators a heart attack or two.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 29, 2013 - 02:10pm PT
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Nice story, Ghost! I wouldn't have wanted to do that with just a bowline around the waist and a hip belay...
Mushroom was often the first multipitch aid climb that people did because it was easy and straightforward.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 29, 2013 - 02:20pm PT
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What's up top, or what was up top of that bolt ladder? Does it go right to the top?? I did mushroom last week & those old bolts sure look......old.
Edit- I did 1/2 of mushroom technically :-)
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 29, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
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According to my Jim Campbell guide there was a short aid corner above the upper fault, but the big deal is the opportunity to A2 nail the upper fault all the way left (Horizontally Prone) to where Transit of Venus is now.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Aug 29, 2013 - 02:39pm PT
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Possibly considering driving up your guys' way at the end of September. Typically, how's the weather for climbing at that time of year? I've never been to Squamish before.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 29, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 29, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
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That's High Mtn Woody.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 29, 2013 - 04:40pm PT
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briham89,
Sendtember can be good here, it can also suck. Last year was good until 2nd week of oct IIRC.
Right now it feels like Augtober so maybe September will be glorious.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 29, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
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That's High Mtn Woody.
Yup. We were at Squamish this spring with a friend who had never done any trad climbing, and I tried to think of the best first-ever crack pitch for him. He's a fairly accomplished sporto (leads in the mid-11s), but had never climbed on gear.
He really loved High Mountain Woody. Which, given the location and the quality of the climbing, is not much of a surprise.
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MH2
climber
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Aug 29, 2013 - 08:40pm PT
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High Mtn Woody - doesn't that have a hard start?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 29, 2013 - 09:23pm PT
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High Mtn Woody - doesn't that have a hard start?
Hard for Squamish 5.8 maybe. Probably about Index 5.5.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 29, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
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Haha ghost, that one went over ur head I think. No pun intended.
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Aug 29, 2013 - 09:29pm PT
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I always thought it was stiff for the grade....
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 29, 2013 - 09:29pm PT
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I thought about that, but then decided Andy was usually much cleverer than that, and anyway, even if I was wrong, it's always good to get in an Index jab at Sq'ish ratings.
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MH2
climber
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Aug 29, 2013 - 11:00pm PT
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Do we have a picture of the culturally modified tree?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 29, 2013 - 11:42pm PT
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A ha!
Andy is so clever he makes you think he's cleverer than that.
I thought the first 15' don't count towards the difficulty of a climb anyhow??
Hey how's the weather right now down in this "Index" you speak of David?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 30, 2013 - 12:06am PT
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Hey how's the weather right now down in this "Index" you speak of David?
How would I know? I just got back from five days in the non-climbing capital of the known universe (Saskatoon) and immediately buried myself in work. For all I know Klimmer's illuminati/fallen angels/aliens teleported index to their ark on the far side of the moon and are now looking for an anus to probe.
But if the weather at Index is anything like it was on my bike ride home this evening, it's probably under water to half-way up the Davis-Holland.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 30, 2013 - 12:09am PT
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I always thought it was stiff for the grade....
Yeah between that and the GMB at 5.8+ original grade Payan could be quite a dick with his ratings ;)
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 30, 2013 - 12:14am PT
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"Let's give them something to remember."
So I let out a blood-curdling scream and leaped off.
I love that story, did it give you more of a fright than you expected?
It reminded me of being 40m up a western red cedar outside of the zoo in Stanley Park. I was up there removing a widow maker (broken hanging branch) when I heard a tourist asking my groundsman what was up the tree. The tree had very dense foliage so they couldn't see me. Without missing a beat he simple stated that a bear had escaped from the zoo again. That was my cue to let out the best imitation of a loud angry bear. I must of done a good job as through the branches I could see these tourist running at top speed down the path.
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MH2
climber
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Aug 30, 2013 - 12:52am PT
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^^^^^^^^ Good idea of what to expect in this world.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 30, 2013 - 02:41am PT
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Nice shot Andy!
Funny stories Harry & Ghost. Scarin tourins, good fun.
I am unable to identify that climb although I feel like I've done it. The fresh cut tree at the base may be an indicator that it looks different now than it once did.
I was however, able to identify the hand Jammie's immediately which makes me hope it turns into a fist crack higher up :-)
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 30, 2013 - 03:54am PT
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Rainy Day Dream Away, a suitable climb for that wicked lightning storm we just had.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 30, 2013 - 01:00pm PT
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Has anyone tried the hand jammies? I have to say it seems like an easy way to avoid learning good hand crack technique. I'd like to say it's cheating but is it any different than rock shoes? I guess I'll have to climb in bare feet if I want to criticize their use. I never liked wads of tape either as I thought that was cheating too.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 30, 2013 - 02:41pm PT
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Harry I think it is like anything else, with a coating of rubber you lose the sensitivity, but it may be necessary for protection ;)
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 31, 2013 - 01:19am PT
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Funny stuff, Dave and Harry. It reminds me of when I did RNWFHD with Daryl. I got to lead Thank God Ledge and there was this fat kid hanging on to the diving board that sticks out over the face with his mom right behind him. I was down hand-traversing the ledge and decided to give them a show. I got all desperate-looking and kicked my legs out and flailed and screamed. The mom grabbed her kid and panicked and I stopped and hung off one arm and waved and smiled. Boy was she pissed. Daryl was first on top and I don't know what was said but he sure was laughing and they were gone down the cables. Daryl then just did this manly hand-over-hand haul with the 9mil as I tried and gave up setting up a pulley.
Good times.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2013 - 07:46pm PT
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So, that's Wild Turkey? Jeez, I don't remember even a little about it. I DO remember drinking Wild Turkey after the FA (or was it before?). Thanks for the post up, MH2. I'm gonna save this one.
Eyonkee- i'm thinking it was before?? ;)
Nice pics guys! Very cool angle on clean crack Ryan!
Rad stories Dave and Harry!
We got out today. We met up with Nina and Kyle at Ronins and she jumped on sammy's frog to get her redpoint.
Nina on Sammy's frog 10c
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2013 - 09:50pm PT
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Andy, is that the start of sunblessed?
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MH2
climber
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The photo with Karel in handjammies is Stephanie's Tears. Who is Stephanie and why is she teary?
I could be wrong about the name. But the route that starts here connects to it and to High Mountain Woody.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2013 - 01:30am PT
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Of course it is! Super fun climb. Sandra and i did it awhile ago with Nina and Kyle, but i started via the Gonch pull variation that goes straight through the "cuturally modified" cedar. Instead of stepping right at the neighbourhood bully bolt.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Ahhhh, Stephanie's tears. I love that thing, guess its been a while. Pretty sure that stump there was a full size tree last time I did it? Not the stump with the wiener on it but the other one.
Edit- fight club!
No way, never seen anyone up there either.
Great shot Andy?
Big Mike, I like that shot of yours too! Nice light, is that the climb right of MCM?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Fight Club = original last pitch of Mayday.
I have fond memories of gingerly stepping onto the Big Bro in the flare while solo aiding that thing in the 90s.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Shart in the dark but does anyone want to let me read their copy of Alpinist, so i can catch up of the myths and the mayhem? I'll trade a couple cups of coffee. :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2013 - 01:23pm PT
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Oh, and, full disclosure - I'm not sure if I ever was part of an FFA where the name was changed. I might have been. But I don't recall our gang changing route names after FFAs as a regular practice.
Lol.. We've been down this road a few times Tami! ;) Does "Mad Dog and Englishman" ring a bell? ;) I know you weren't involved with "The Shadow" but that seemed to set a precedent as well. Of course, not all names are victims, "Cobra Crack" being one example. It seems to depend on the ffa'ist.
Nice pic Andy, love that 75-200mm.
Ryan- Yup, the Barley slab route next to mcm.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Tami YOu old goose you!
What about routes that have a free name and an Aid name such as 'Strange Brew' for example, an easier finish to cannabis wall that deviates around the aid crux of Sutton and Burtons 'BreakfastRun'. When Climbed free it is know as 'Midnight Run'.
I think in this case it was givin both names by Andrew Boyd(?), not change by someone else.
it would seem pretty arrogant to have the "I freed it I deserve to change the name" attitude.
But dubbing it with a free name kinda makes its more clear what style you climbed it or aspire to climb it.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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feel free to disagree with me but don't call me names.
Bird-doo head! Toilet Face!!!
And for what it's worth, a climber who frees a formerly aided line and wants to change the name has pretty much zero chance to do so unless the guidebook writer agrees. There's a very strong old-boy-network thing involved here.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2013 - 01:32pm PT
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Bring it to the party this weekend Tami! ;)
Isn't the renaming thing, a Yosemite free route tradition as well?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
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Yup. Perry confirmed for Saturday night.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mad Englishman and Dog story's old news...
We want the dirt behind 'Mad Nerd and Poodle'
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Fight Club is just one pitch of Mayday though (the last), although going by the topo in the Culbert guide it's actually more like two original pitches. Also Mayday extended an earlier one pitch climb called Compression Crack. So where to draw the line? Should the Jardine Traverse just be called "The Nose pitch 12" or whatever?
Should we still be calling Beers are Not Enough "Petrifying Wall" ?
What's up with this gondola-led rebranding of White Rock as Ultraviolet Cliff?
What about retroactive renaming of one's own routes?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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I agree with it particularly with regards to FFAs. While some are redpointed on sight, others are projects. So are there degrees to FFAs ? Yes I think there are. So now when buddy#1 does the worked-over-time version of the FFA and renames the route, does buddy#2 come along, redpoint it and change the name too because it's now an arguably different ascent?
Tami,
This is interesting. What are your thoughts when there is an established free route, say 4 pitches long, that is awesome. Someone adds more ok pitches (overlapping other esoteric routes in the process) & renames the whole thing even though the crux pitch was already established- free.
I seem to remember this happening to a route you were in on the FFA of.
Renaming seems to be more of an ego/marketing ploy in a lot of modern day situations around here, people want to be known for their efforts. This isn't always a bad thing since I guess it gets ppl on the routes but it is kinda weird in a way.
I guess I renamed my dog when I adopted her......
I like how some recently resurrected routes that have been freed kept their name: liquid gold, bullethead east, the terror, etc.
However in certain situations it seems appropriate to rename a route or certain pitches if the free line takes a major variation from the aids line or has completely different pitches. Uwall is an Interesting example since the aid line & the FFA use some different pitches but its still uwall- free. Since "the shadow" follows the original uwall line & not that of the FFA I could understand how it would be deserving of its own name as a free variation otherwise it could be confusing.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Maybe there will be a Hamish vs Hamish battle over that pitch of Uncle Bens getting renamed The Golden Throat Charmer
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MH2
climber
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Well done, cultureshock/Luke. Great climbs and pics. I really like the moment captured at the crux of New Life with Alix looking like a 5'6" person would after a long reach, and the tree patiently growing back. Good perspective on the enduro-corner of The Calling, too.
edit:
Yes, for the purist the chains come before the corner ends. But they came just in time for us.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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That Calling dihedral is the best! Way to get on it Cultureshock! Isn't Astro Ledge scary as shiiite to cross?!!! I totally wigged out on it before.
Luke, Mad Nerd and Poodle is a way cooler name than the one we called it. Simian Response is pretty much the worst name ever.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Yeah Luke(Cultureshock)! Rad TR man, super good to meet you. Hopefully we'll see u up this way again soon. Makin' the loc's look like a buncha weenies here, way to get after it.
Tami, the example I used is the Milk rd. no disrespect to Jeremy F cuz I think he does a lot of great work for the community & I'm not trying to discount his massive efforts in any way. Who knows Maybe he'll even chime in. I think its relevant to what we are talking about though & like any good junior troll in training it seemed worth mentioning. I just thought it was Interesting how it was renamed & is now listed as an entire route top 100, instead of milk run- the classic & milk rd, the upper half or extension. Maybe u guys talked about it or something & I am hardly qualified to say, just bein a weenie smokin bowls in the backyard. I would think though that when routes are renamed & reclaimed & extended & straightened out & freed that some of the historical context has the potential to be blurred. Sometimes this could be a good thing i guess. One of my favorite things about climbing is the historical context.
Relics route is a similar scenario it seems. I think simian response is a cool name Relic, whatever the hell it means.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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I don't think that we have had any discussion about the ethics of renaming routes on this thread. Personally I think that it is totally lame, and seems to be more of a Squamish "thing". Other than changing the "East Face of Washinton Column" to "Astroman", I am not aware of any other name changes in Yos, although there are probably some. The EFWC was named at a time when there were very few routes on each cliff [2 or 3 on El Cap], and they were named as geographic features rather than separate lines. It made sense to later change those names [very few] to something with a more specific identity. It is worth noting that, as far as I know, none of the routes which have been freed on EC have been renamed. The FFAists are all bigger than that, and don't need the ego trip.
If the person who makes the FFA feels entitled to make a name change, how about the person who makes the first roped solo? and the first free solo? and.........
Perhaps we should make renaming a timed event, like speed records on the Nose. Then whichever party sets a new record gets to change the name. As for all of these minor variations which now seem to require a new name, the Brits have a good solution. They just refer to them as variation starts/ finishes or direct starts/finishes.
Did I mention that I think renaming is lame, lame, lame?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Perfidious trustafarian lol
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MH2
climber
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I like the Bruce Kay point of view. He is Edward Abbey as in, "Abbey considers John McPhee 'a first rate reporter, but too mild, too nice, too cautious -- no point of view.'"
Not saying HM is John Mcphee AT ALL. I like the HM view on renaming routes and it is not too mild.
I am just putting together the parallel universe history of Squamish provided by BK.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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You people up there are so quaint!
But you'd be more entertaining if you weren't so damn civil.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I'm also quite unenthusiastic about renaming of routes, other than in exceptional circumstances. There's something of a spectrum, but to my mind, route re-naming simply isn't on unless most or all of the following are satisfied:
Community consensus.
Isn't confusing.
Consent of those who made the FA, if feasible.
Route has had few if any ascents.
Route is not considered of any historic or other significance.
Much time has passed, and the route has become overgrown.
A great deal of work was needed to restore the route.
Substantial variations were made.
The route's history and original name and climbers are consistently identified. Simple respect.
Too often many of these aren't met, and those involved don't come off well.
(I'll omit comment on routes that had early, transitional names, and were soon given permanent names, with the consent of the FA team. For example, "Willmott's", now named Snake, and "Willmott-Strachan Chimney" - guess which that one was?)
There's a long history of accidental and deliberate re-naming at Squamish, starting perhaps with Fred's 1959 attempt to rename the Chief "Goose Rock". No one knows why. Some other notable examples:
Artificial Land: Inadvertently renamed Sentry Box sometime between the 1962 Baldwin guide, and the 1967 Woodsworth guide.
South Arete: The original name for Squamish Buttress, now the name for a route that wasn't part of the original buttress route.
North Arete: The local name for it, but Fred insisted it be called Angel's Crest. As it was his route, his call. A bit of poetry, from Fred.
Cacodemon Crack: The first half of what Fred later called Unfinished Symphony.
Bastille: Renamed Rock On, for a route that covers much of the same ground, plus at the top intersects with an unrecorded route named Pioneer, plus the original line of Squamish Buttress. I don't know if the Rock On party knew their first pitches were on Bastille/Basteal.
University Wall: It made sense that the FFA party kept the name, although they did two significant variations (<10% of the total). A significant, well-established route. But when they returned and freed the original line, and renamed those two pitches only (#2 and #5), it just confused me. (Probably no one has ever freed the entire original line of U Wall.)
Black Bug's Blood: It probably wasn't climbed much, but was an established route. The so-called "One Scoop" route uses 75% or more the same line, plus added a large number of bolts. Without any mention of the history.
Freeway: Notably, Dean and Randy didn't purport to rename this, when they cleaned it up and completely freed it ten years after the FA. Neither did those who freed Cannabis Wall a few years ago rename it. Genius Loci is an exception, in that most of the route is independent of Ten Years After.
The list of "renamed" routes is now quite long, even allowing that some are largely new routes, use and tidy up part of an existing one, then give the whole thing a new name. Particularly on the Apron, the Papoose, and other lower-angle bits. Modern equipment and techniques allow climbers to "see" routes that may not have been feasible in the past. You end up with a patchwork grid.
There may be a place for some renaming of routes, but IMHO much less than some have attempted.
Speaking of which, Jeff and Hamish Thomson, Tami, and I recently did a new indirect start to Slab Alley. We didn't "rename" Slab Alley - that would be beyond rude, even with all the work I put into restoring that climb. And that's what I'd like to suggest - if you must, just restore existing routes, maybe with variations. (Our guidebooks now even give credit for same.) Enough of this renaming nonsense. We're thinking of naming the new variation "Due Diligence - FTG".
As for the left side of Yosemite Pinnacle, even I got up it (sort of) without the chicken bolt. Why in the world would anyone add bolts to Clean Corner? Enough of this "plaisir" climbing crap. A short, steep slippery slope, often promoted by those with motives other than protecting the experience of climbing.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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lets fire up the birdwalk bandwagon and get with the times rather than tilting at the Moody Blues windmill.
I had a class in college where we analyzed stuff like that to figure out what it really meant but that was a long time ago.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Artificial Land: Inadvertently renamed Sentry Box sometime between the 1962 Baldwin guide, and the 1967 Woodsworth guide.
Don't look at me! I'm not responsible for that renaming!
I saw no reason to rename Crap Crags (Europa, I think). Why Europa??? What was wrong with Crap Crags???
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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I have been pondering this renaming conundrum.......and have come up with 2 suggestions:
1. Anyone who does a new route in the alpine is then entitled to rename the WHOLE MOUNTAIN, at least until the next new route is established.
2. It's time to rename Squamish. There are already 2 possible choices, Squish and Squampton. Any other ideas?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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2. It's time to rename Squamish. There are already 2 possible choices, Squish and Squampton. Any other ideas?
How about Goose Rock? That has a nice ring to it.....
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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O.K., O.K., I got it. We get more yanks up there and they start renaming all the routes with their favorite dribble. Whoa. Stop me.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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I can't wait for some good old yankee carne asada on Psyche Ledge this weekend. See y'all at The Goose!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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That will get it done. About three skirt steaks at a time. Who is hungry?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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MH couldn't take it anymore :-)
Thanks MH!
Lots of good posts.
Is sacrificial lamb @ gobsmacking wall a play on artificial land?
Wow, goose rock. That woulda been a shame. The Chief is a way more bitchen name for a rock formation.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Why don't we take a page out of Prince's book. After a free ascent, Crap crags would become "the route formally know as crap crags" or Freeway could become Wayfree.
All kidding aside, changing names is somewhat disrespectful to the original ascensionists and the historical value of those names.
The Persian community in North Vancouver is an ethnic group that has certainly enriched our city. They are good business people and since coming here after'79 own a lot of the stores on Lonsdale ave, our main street. Several years ago they went to city council to push to have the name changed to an Iranian name. This is the same thing, a total lack of respect for the existing community that originally named it over one hundred years ago.
Bottom line, respect the people that came before you whether it be rock or road.
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Catburglar
Trad climber
Vancouver
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renaming routes it is totally lame, and seems to be more of a Squamish "thing". Other than changing the "East Face of Washinton Column" to "Astroman", I am not aware of any other name changes in Yos. none of the routes which have been freed on EC have been renamed, The FFAists are all bigger than that, and don't need the ego trip.
Hmmm... Golden Gate = The Heart route, El Nino = North America Wall, El Corazan = Son of Heart and Flight of the Albatross, Passage to Freedom = New Dawn, The Prophet = Bad to the Bone and Eagles Way, Secret Passage = Eagles Way and Bad to the Bone.
Re-naming freed aid routes is commonplace and is often more of a necessity in order to keep things clear and concise rather than an effort to disregard the first ascenscionists efforts and contribution. If I freeclimb the trade route of El Cap should i say ``i just freed most of Salathe, except the part where i had to move left into Bermuda Dunes,on pitch 23 i had to detour off of Salathe for a pitch, before the headwall i had to move left and finish up the final pitches of Excaliber``? Or can I please just say I sent the Freerider!!!?
I think on a much smaller scale this is what is going on in Squamish, people aren't going to want to say "today i climbed parts of The Bastille, before the top of the Bastille I moved left into Rock On"
It kind seems to me like the ego trip is coming from your end Hamie.
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MH2
climber
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can I please just say I sent the Freerider!!!?
No. You say, "I did the Free Salathe." Unless there is more than one.
Yeah, that would work. If we were bloodless conformists.
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Catburglar
Trad climber
Vancouver
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MH2. I'm not sure if you are joking or not, but if I were to climb the Freerider and claim a free ascent of the Salathe I'd be be wandering into Maestri-Cesen land, the freerider totally avoids the the 5.13 headwall of the the Free Salathe.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Renaming freed aid routes has a long history, not just in Yos but in the "crucible of free climbing" namely Britan
You think Hubble and Mecca take their names from the boring old bolt ladders that climbed thru the overhangs at Ravens Tor?
Doubt it.
When Chris Craggs put up "Free This You Sport Climbing Bastards" and it got freed, the new name "The Bastard" made much more sense.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Who is cat burglar? There's a route at Castle Rock of that name.
Troll-in-training Bruce needs to work on his shtick. Apart from him, we seem largely in agreement that route renaming at Squamish should be discouraged, and when done should have respect, clarity and consensus.
Looking at it another way, there's lots of unclimbed rock at Squamish. Those wanting a personal monument are free to clean it up, climb it, and give it a name - without disrespecting others, and the history. Most such routes may quickly fall into oblivion, given the bell curve. Another issue.
As a sociologist friend puts it, much climber behaviour can be simply explained in terms of adolescent males. Or, as Perry puts it, peeing on the corner posts.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Troll-in-training Bruce needs to work on his shtick. Apart from him, we seem largely in agreement that route renaming at Squamish should be discouraged,
Speak for yourself Anders, not for everybody else. Only half a dozen or so people have commented here, and about half of them seem to believe that route-renaming is sometimes fine. So where do you get the idea that "we seem largely in agreement"? Who is this "we"? (Maybe the Royal We????)
My guess is that most folks would agree that route-renaming should be done with consideration for community consensus. That in general it's not a good idea, but sometimes is fine. But that's just my guess, not my statement about what "we" think.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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which Sonnie Trotter will promptly send, then rename it Smell of Grumpy Old Men Clinging to the Past in a unguarded and probably drunken moment at a psyche ledge party.... then change his mind upon pressure from community consensus.... or maybe not?
Anders, is this in reference to a specific event??
Cat burglar, welcome to ST.
Despite your position on renaming routes(which is just fine) please be aware that Hamie is kinda the man around here & deserves no disrespect for his opinion. Particularly since more than a few of his routes have been either partially or completely reno'd or renamed over the years. Telling him that he's on an ego trip as your first ever post as an anonymous user here makes you appear to be a TIT (troll in training). I hope in the future you will contribute but please leave the comments that will lead to heated exchanges to BK & MH as they are way more entertaining.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Typical lawyerly truth-bending .
Renaming a freed route is fine.
Zombie Roof, not Rat Burger
There, I said it.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Thank you for nibbling at my ever so lame attempt at trolling - it is most kind of you to have done so, and will surely reinforce my self-esteem. "Every troll gets at least one bite" seems to be the motto.
These vexing matters should be referred to the Bughouse Heights/Hospital Hill/South Ridge/Little Smoke Bluffs/Smokey Bluffs/Smoke Bluffs Morals & Ethics Committee, for an utterly indecisive result.
(Skunk Hollow, being more or less what is now Valleycliffe, omitted.)
We have now returned and climbed the climb formerly known as Slab Alley ("TCFKASA"), including the new indirect stepladder start, and while doing so removed several specks of lichen and some of Bruce's chicken bolts. It was a laborious, tortuous and frightening ascent, and really, our experience was completely different from anyone else's. As a result, a new name seemed apropos. We thought about renaming the route "Monument to Climbers with Big Egos and Wee Willies", but decided instead to call it Slab Alley. Has a nice ring, doesn't it?
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MH2
climber
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Good on Catburglar for entertaining the notion that I might be joking. However, notice that Free Salathe is not, in the beautifully accommodating English language, the same as Salathe free.
If it were up to me, I would just say that I had climbed X route and then let the beneficiary of that news wonder if I had soloed, freed, hang-dogged, or aided the original or any variation. If the listener knew me they would know what was up and if they didn't know me they are free to think what they want. Or they could ask a question or 2. The only blasphemy is to claim a better effort than you gave. Why we care I am not sure but we do. Joking is fine by me, but only works on people who can guess the truth.
edit: maybe catburglar is catbirdseat from cc.com
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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catbirdseat aka catturdeat couldn't troll even if you spotted him a bridge and three goats
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Bruce!!
I can't stop laughing!
WTF can i get one of them?!?!?
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Holly cow this has got the posts going!
I think a new name might be warranted If somebody spends the enormous amount of time, effort and money cleaning a mostly new route that includes parts of an overgrown and forgotten line. If it's just freeing some section on a well travelled mostly free route then I think the original name should stand.
Tami, you have a point there.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Well, lots to read tonight. My head is hurting.
Catburglar, welcome to the Taco, if you really are new. It's always fascinating to read another pov. I am particularly grateful for your info that the Salathe has now become "the trade route" on EC. I am so far stuck in the past that I still thought it was The Nose. Also thanks for all the info on the various combinations, variations and permutations which you listed. I had no idea. It all makes a fellow, esp an old one, quite dizzy.
You are quite correct that I have a big ego. I have always enjoyed the challenge and excitement of putting up new routes, and still get some satisfaction from seeing my name and the occasional photo in guidebooks, updates and the occasional maggie. Incidentally, I finished a new route yesterday, #53 since I bought a drill 7 years ago. I counted them today, just for you. How's that for ego and bragging? [One advantage of finishing a new route is that I always treat myself to a bottle of wine.]
One question for you. Are you as sneaky as your name implies?
Sorry Tami, I tried to be nice, but I'm still working at it. Note to self: "Think nice".
Cheers to Tami, Ryan and MH.
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MH2
climber
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"If there is any doubt about..."
I wish I had my doubt back. At least about how they clean stuff. And maybe about the Squaw in general. I find doubt to be health-preserving.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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You are quite correct that I have a big ego.
Which makes you not so different from most of the rest of the first ascentionists in the world. I'm sure there are exceptions, but most people who put up new routes, me included, do have a "big ego." I've never understood why people consider that attribute as a negative. Absent big ego, there'd be a whole lot less climbs in the world. Or less anything that requires creativity, imagination, and the drive to take risks.
I'm sure there are some ego-less folk out there who climb new routes for no other reason than to become one with the fuzzy endlessness of the universe or something, but most of the new-routers I know are strong-willed big-ego types.
But you know what? Most of them are also really nice people.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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But you know what? Most of them are also really nice people. Everyone on this thread is really nice. This thread has been a revelation to me: totally accepting of differing views, climibng abilities, ages, POVs, and so on. Yes, it can get heated, but not nasty. Let's keep it that way, in the spirit the climbing community in general and one of the genuine nice guys, Big Mike (I'm honoured to know you, Mike), who started this thread way back when.
I'm taking an extended leave of absence from this thread. Have fun at the Psyche Ledge party - sorry to miss it - and I'll check in here towards the end of October. In the mean time, keep the discussion going, keep it kind, and keep climbing.
Glenn
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Glenn
I recall that some time ago you mentioned a fall trip to Peru and Bolivia, and assume that you are now on your way. Buena suerte if you decide to tackle one of the bigs near La Paz.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dang! I was looking forward to seeing you on the ledge. But it sounds like, through some weird twisted logic, you've managed to convince yourself that a trip to Peru and Bolivia is somehow more worthwhile than hanging out on a disused road with a bunch of climbers.
Oh well...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Then there are blends or Rye, but we're above all that
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Obviously Peder was a fan of The Worlds Toughest Milkman. David Boswell was transplanted Hamiltonian that came to Vancouver just like myself.
Dundas has climbing too, that's where we drank our Owls roost.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2013 - 12:57pm PT
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Yes, it can get heated, but not nasty. Let's keep it that way, in the spirit the climbing community in general and one of the genuine nice guys, Big Mike (I'm honoured to know you, Mike), who started this thread way back when.
This is very good advice. This is why we have discussions here that don't end in name calling and thread deleting. Thanks for the compliment Glenn. It's an honour coming from you. Your support while i was in the hospital meant the world, and i was very lucky to have it.
This thread has been my saviour, in good times and bad, and has contributed greatly in my recovery, from the support of it's denizens who flocked to my side when it was most needed. I will never forget your visits, generous donations or words of support, so thank you to all who were there for me.
Now, this renaming thing. After a few conversations and some diligent reading, I think that if one is simply freeing a previously aided pitch, without any variations, then the original name should stick.
If one is adding new pitches to an existing climb or variations to free the route, then it is essentially a new route, encompassing the old pitches. Therefore it deserves a new name, but hopefully one which will pay homage to the older route, which paved the way for the newer one. Milk "Road" for example. I like the way Marc handled it, including the older names in the descriptions, as well as fa information.
I also think it is a sign of respect for the original FA to leave the name intact on freed single pitch aid routes, as some have chosen to do.
I guess it just comes down to whether the ffa thinks the original name is suitable for the free version.
Nice to see everyone posting again btw. All we need now is a comment from Greg, Hamish and Perry and we'll have a full house! ;)
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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I'm an irrelevant anachronism and have nothing edifying to contribute to the renaming discussion.
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MH2
climber
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So can we rename you?
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Yes, it's done all the time.
People have been renaming me for decades.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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What time do the festivities start tomorrow night?
Ummmm. Wait. "Festive" is maybe not the world that best suits my memories of Psyche Ledge. But I still need to know, roughly, what the hours are.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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And another thing
If any of you run into Wayno tonight (Howe Sound Pub???), tell him to call me. Or check his phone for texts.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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I probably won't roll in from Chilliwack before dark.
It better be festive by then!
Scary Bakedham
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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If we're renaming irrelevant geezers with tasty names like scary bakedham
I vote we rename hamie "hamwich munch"!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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You want light ?
As long as it ain't Coors Light. Or Bud Light.
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MH2
climber
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"Sometimes the mountaineer must adopt the attitude of the cow and chew the cud."
~ Paul Petzoldt
My own attitude on renaming routes comes from long ago at the Gunks where the most complicated it could get was a link of two other climbs:
Travels with Charley
Strictly from Nowhere
and it was called Travels/Strictly by my friends at the time. In the latest guide, I see that you can link 3 climbs.
The name of a climb is a lot less important to me now than it was then, but back then the name of the climb almost was the climb. The name had a supernatural talismanic power. Well, maybe it did, if it wasn't called Puff 'N' Grunt chimney, but called the Crack of Doom, instead.
Routes that are up to 30-some pitches, close to other such routes, and have long histories of aid and free ascents could present naming challenges.
http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2011/05/yosemite-climbing/graphic/img_2011all.png
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Squamish stoke
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Yeah, Squamish stoke!
Ghosts shot contrasts Andy's view from above quite nicely. What a pretty climb.
I stole this photo on the interweb of me that some Internet user "Kyle" had posted. Thanks "Kyle", from the Internet.
I'd like to make the psyche but gotta work & won't be in Squamish till the witching hour to see who's up still. Hopefully we'll see ya!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Last time I saw Wayne he was putting up a rope.
David, I think Wayne has his wife's cell phone. That is why he is ignoring your toiletface.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
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Just talked to Wayno, he's got the Carne Asada ready for grilling. We told Jim we're gonna try and be there around six to set up, so come on down any time after that.
I took Wayno out to the Smoke Bluffs yesterday, and sicked him on Clean Starts which he dispatched with glee.
Then we headed down to Burgers and found a bunch of the gang down there.
After suitable preparation i sent him up Burgers and Fries. (See relics pic)
Wayno rapping off Burgers
It was quite the sunset.
Wayno at the top
Stoked to see everyone tonight!!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Just back from Psyche Ledge.
What a treat to have been there with so many wonderful people.
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MH2
climber
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Second the emotion.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Great time at Psyche Ledge last night.
A big thanks to Jim Brennan for getting things set up and hosting the get together.
So good to see everyone who made it.
I think this event is a keeper and worthy of putting time and effort into again next year.
Regards,
PB
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Yeah, thanks Perry & everyone. Sorry I missed a bunch of you guys but I guess it was past ur bedtimes when I got there :-)
Still got to meet Jim B, Harry, & Wayno- all rad dudes. As well, the Cormier brothers, Ais, Mike, Sandra, Perry & a few others were still there suffering from various degrees of libation which was nice too. Next year it should finish with the hungover exasperator toprope speed comp on the Sunday.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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A big thanks to Jim Brennan for getting things set up and hosting the get together.
Wayne and Nina also had a hand in the hosting, and deserve much thanks.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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True that!
Thanks Wayne and Nina!
Good to see you Dave!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Yes it was a great evening. Thanks Jim, Wayno and Perry. I agree it's a keeper as an annual event. I like Ryan's idea for the hangover toprope comp the next day.Great to reconnect with Tami, Dave, Andy, Anders and finally meet Ryan, Nathan, Wayno, Luke's bro and Big Jim( who told me a great story about his first mountain climb he ever did with some storm trooper German that lived as a hermit around Powell river). Bruce where were you? I wanted to see you and Tami arm wrestle.
The icing on the cake was getting a copy of Alpinism 43 to take home, thanks Tami.
Squamish is such an awesome place.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Squamish is such an awesome place.
In so many ways.
If Psyche Ledge was in a park in the States, there is no way we could have pulled off a party like that. Not that we were disturbing anything, but the LEOs would have at least told us to pack it up and don't ever try that again.
I need to thank all the locals for such a great weekend. I would try to name them but I wouldn't want to miss anyone.
The biggest thanks to Big Mike. Burgers and Fries was tasty. After not staying up with all the new gear and techniques, he has been a mentor, in the most humble way.
Tami, I can't wait to dig into the Alpinist 43. Thanks. It was great meeting Phil, I wish we could have talked more.
Jim made the day with the grill, the table and the generator and tunes. And the hand-truck. No-one had to carry coolers of ice.
I could go on and on but I'll just leave it with an, "Ill be back".
Wayno.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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A nice reclean at the Gobsmack, before the Psyche festivities. Great party guys. Thanks so much for feeding the starving kids. The tacos were killer. Thanks for the mag Tami!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 10, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
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So how did Kyle and Nathan do on Freeway on Sunday? Any pics?
I talked to Yerian today and told him about the party and he gives his deepest regards to all his Squamish friends. He sounded like he is in bad need of a Squamish fix.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 10, 2013 - 11:55pm PT
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Kyle and I had a great, albeit lengthy time on Freeway.
We got a pretty early start, but not early enough to be the first party on route. Luckily, the two guys in front informed us that this would be the absolute peak of their leading limit and offered us to go first, as they might be slow. If they happen to read this - much appreciated!
I led the first pitch. It was hard. For anyone whose only .11a climbs are the two on the Grand and any in the Bluffs, this thing is a brutally rude warm up. Two definite crux sections, each protected by a bolt. I fell once at each one. Still the best I've done on it (third time climbing that pitch).
I linked it with Daylight Crack to get some space between us and the other guys. Three cams for that second half.
Kyle sent the traverse, thought it was soft for .10b. I thought it was harder than the one on Ultimate Everything. I started the dihedral, couldn't commit to the crux until I took a hang and got a nut in. Belayed on gear from the partway ledge due to rope drag. Kyle finished the rest of the pitch, would have got the OS but he was too short to reach a crucial lock and the left leg is in a strenuous position. I managed to follow clean on TR, which I was stoked on, as my first time up I botched the sequence horribly and hung the whole way up.
Kyle then took us up to the Truck Stop, very gracefully onsighting the 50 meter .11a corner pitch. I also got it clean with much effort.
After a rest, I went to go through the roof, but was reaching with the wrong hand and fell a couple times. French Freed a bunch of it just due to impatience, as I had to hitch hike back to the city once we were down and didn't want to be too late. I got better beta now though so should be okay for next time. Kyle got it clean with one fall at the start.
Now was where it got messy. Kyle started around the Autobahn traverse, but instead of going up once around the corner, he went directly across to a different anchor. Communication was pretty much non existent. I just waited until he had taken me tight and gave a couple tugs on the rope before I started. I hadn't had enough to drink and my arms were seizing up in a violent way. I had to hang on the first piece of gear and spend about 15 minutes shaking out. Once I made it around the corner, I went from following to leading and finished up the pitch at the proper anchor.
It was about 430 at this point. Kyle's confidence was shaken due to the slight epic he had just had, and I was worried that my arms would lock up in the middle of a hard pitch. Neither of us wanted to climb another .11. I led up the .10c without cramping, but then instead of going up the .11a corner, we detoured over to the right to the chimney pitch on Milk Road.
I led that, and could barely pull up our tagline without my upper body seizing. I have never experienced anything like that, and it was extremely frustrating. Kyle then went back over to the final pitch on Freeway and finished it up clean (.10d). I pulled on the bolts.
Nina was awesome, meeting us partway up the trail with water. When we got down, I had to run back up to the base and grab my shirt which I had jettisoned from the first pitch. Kyle gave me a ride to the intersection at Shannon Falls, where I managed to get a ride home.
I can't wait to get back on it. I was so beat I almost slept through my alarm Monday morning and could barely move at work. Definitely bringing more water next time.
Also - had an excellent time at the Psych Ledge party. Had some great chats with Tami, met a couple people for the first time (Peder Ourom - legend! and Harry) which was awesome.
Wish it was more than a once a year event.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 12, 2013 - 01:50am PT
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We got back to Seattle last night after spending a few extra days in Squamish. Too bad for me that I had to work for about half the time. But Mari got out for a good day with Mike and Sandra. She brought them back for a visit at the end of the day, so I at least got a bit of second-hand climbing -- and to spend some time with a pair of really nice people.
I finally finished work at about 1:00 pm on Sunday and we decided to use the afternoon for a combination of exercise, exploration, and climbing. Hiked to a recently discovered crag called The Centurion, somewhere up in the back end of nowhere behind the Conroy Creek road. There's one route so far -- six pitches of bolts to 10b.
First pitch looks like this:
View from the belay at the top of that pitch
It was late enough that we only climbed one more pitch, a mostly chossy affair which opened the door to what looked like some very nice rock above.
A pretty place, with great views, but if you decide to go there, take your 4X4 and drive all the way to the end of the road. The trail from there is quite pleasant, but hiking the road is tedious and time-consuming.
Anyway, thanks to all who showed up at the Psyche Ledge affair - and particularly to JB, Wayno, and Nina who put the work in. It was a treat to see old friends, and to meet some ST posters (and lurkers) for the first time.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 12, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
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Nice pics Bruce, good to see Kevin is still in the thick of it. I went up there once with Sig Isaac back in the last century and though it was great other than the bushwhack. That route looks really clean, did the Squamish cleaning brigade go up there or is it an anomy that it stays clean naturally?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 12, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
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That route looks really clean, did the Squamish cleaning brigade go up there or is it an anomy that it stays clean naturally?
When Dick Mitten and Corina Acheson and I made the first forays up that wall we found a fairly clean line. We bushwhacked in, climbed (I think) three or four pitches, maybe up to moderate 5.10, and went home. Never went back (there were endless new projects back then).
I'm sure that some of the cracks and corners on the routes up there now had to be grubbed out, but if a 30-year-old memory means anything, I think it was at least a little bit less bushy than the Chief.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 12, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
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I'm too lazy to dig up the Chehalis/Chilliwack peaks thread right now but it's prime conditions on Slesse NE butt right now...
11! people on the route yesterday (2 bivied on the ledge and 9 in-a-dayers) and some more up there today.
We made it from the cars to the start of Crossover walkoff yesterday, bivied and finished the walk out today.
North Rib access across the glacier seems impassible right now.
Mind blowing to think that Micro Marc soloed this and the north rib both in a single day in July.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 12, 2013 - 08:18pm PT
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Is that a snowpatch on the bivy ledge?
nope, bivi ledge is bone dry, it's the last bit of sun on route on the day circa 3 pm
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 15, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
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Bump for a beautiful day in Squamish, get some while there's still some to get!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Sep 18, 2013 - 01:54am PT
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Hello, hello.
Calling Squish......
Anyone awake?
Everyone still hung over?
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Sep 18, 2013 - 04:22am PT
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From a stellar day last Wednesday on the Grand Wall with Brad Ward, and Will Stanhope (taking the shot from above).
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Sep 18, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
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Nice work Wayne.
By the way, that cedar is getting huge!
Back in 76 it was barely a shrub.
Wonder if it'll eventually pry the Pillar off?
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 18, 2013 - 02:05pm PT
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Well I'm pretty sure Jim Brennan is itching to get up there with a saw and prevent that from happening.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 18, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
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I imagine future climbers of the 2100s will fondly grapple their way up the prosthetically molded replacement Pillar with their gecko suits on and feel very old school indeed
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
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Wayno- It was an Honour sir. Gear is gear. Once you know how it functions, it's all the same. Nice work by the way! Excellent off the couch climbing!
Hi Hamie! Nice to hear from ya! What's new?
I had lots of fun at the Psyche Ledge party. Many great conversations were had that night, the food was great and the set up was spot on! The many puzzled looks of the pad people walking around us was quite amusing.
Lots of great company and good times were had. Special thanks to Wayno for the amazing Carne Asada and Jim Brennan for bringing his "Q", plus running the whole darn show from beginning to end! Thanks also to Nina for her lovely pulled pork and Kyle for bringing his portable table!
Thanks also to everyone for attending and making it such a great time! What a great legacy to revive Perry! I think you have a hit!
I've been crazy busy lately so I haven't had a chance to get to my pics, but i have a couple from cragging on Saturday with Sandra Mari and Wayno.
Mari wanted to check out Cabin Boys Office, so we strolled up there
Mari on Ziggity Zags 10a
Wayno on belay.
Sandra got her redpoint on Laughing Crack, and then Nina joined us and we changed venues to High Cliff.
Nina on 20 Minute Workout 10b
She got the redpoint.
We did a couple more routes, and then joined Dave and Mari for a tasty beverage. Thanks for that guys! Thanks for the book Dave! It will be perfect reading material for Yosemite!
Nice work on the Grand Wayne! I can't wait to get back up there! Next spring. For sure.
That tree better not pry the Pillar off before i get to redpoint it! I'll be pissed!! ;)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 19, 2013 - 01:54am PT
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The valiant and lovely cedar over from the base of the Split Pillar should be left alone, and indeed cherished. It has succeeded, in a harsh environment, and is little threat to the Pillar - despite the beliefs of some. It's well to the side of the base of the Pillar, and when it eventually falls, it seems unlikely to cause problems. Even if it did, so what?
It may be only the latest of a succession of shrubs there, taking root, slowly growing, and eventually being destroyed by ice or rock fall, accumulation of snow and ice on the branches, or simply getting too big. That's the life of the Chief, which is bigger than any of us.
The Pillar itself, and the flake systems above it, are in any case temporary in geological and perhaps even human terms. The Pillar is detached, except at the top, with its base sitting in a sort of niche. It expands, as do most of the nearby connected flake cracks. Undoubtedly elastic release, earthquakes, frost heaving, and heat expansion/contraction are real threats to it. A small tree some metres to the side, in a separate crack, pales in comparison to these.
The Pillar will eventually fall - get over it! It's not the only classic hand crack in Squamish. Don't the already over-zealous logger/climbers have something better to do, or do they want to go out in a blaze of ignominy? BC Parks seems unlikely to condone any human-caused damage to that tree, and you could hardly blame them. Cheap vandalism.
In my view, it would be an act of egotistical vandalism to damage let alone remove that tree.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 19, 2013 - 02:49am PT
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Squamish will be the scene of my comeback, if there is such a thing. There is something really cool about climbing there that I can't find the words to express. Actually I can, but I don't want to piss anyone off.;)
How did Luke's and Aislinn's wedding go? Any pics? Congratulations you two.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 19, 2013 - 12:20pm PT
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Yes, I can climb today Bruce, meet me at the second pullout and we can do Running man on gear.
All kidding aside, why for art thou unable to climb from here on in?
Operation? Trip? Hand modelling contract?
As an arborist I can assure you Thuja plicata is a very resilient species and it's growth will slow to match the resources available. It will be there for a long time to come unless our climate changes, the pillar removes it or it contracts Didymascella thujina or Jimella brennani.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 19, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
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What you guys don't realize is that the Pillar alreadyfell off, during the February 2001 earthquake.
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1545/1
American climbers were panicked.
Some guy from Ontario even called up Murray at Climb On to ask if the GW was still climbable.
Thanks to the amazing skills of the Squamish Climbers Society, the prosthetic replacement for the Pillar that was emplaced very soon afterwards has successfully fooled most climbers into thinking that nothing ever fell off.
The original pillar was taken to the quarry next to the Bluffs parking lot and sawn up into granite counter tops for yuppies.
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MH2
climber
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Sep 19, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
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Young guys don't divide their life into decades.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 19, 2013 - 10:53pm PT
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Young guys don't divide their life into decades.
Young guys can actually remember what happened in what decade.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 20, 2013 - 01:37am PT
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Young guys can actually remember what happened in what decade.
Really easy to do when only one or two really count.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 20, 2013 - 04:17am PT
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You could be right Lurky it's been a while since I was last up there although (yellow cedar) is usually at higher elevations. They have also been reclassified to the Cupressaceae family so it's now Cupressus nookatensis. This reclassification comes with the same controversy we see on this thread daily, surprise, surprise. People are people so why should it be..............
I will look more closely next time I'm lurking up there.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Sep 20, 2013 - 10:37am PT
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I made comment on how much the cedar at the base of the Pillar had grown in my time and offered oblique and uninformed speculation as to whether it might eventually assist the Pillar in it's ultimate arrival at the base of the Grand.
I didn't suggest or advocate the tree's (or The Pillar's) removal.
Then we receive an all to familiar pedantic polemic (complete with biased aspersions against forestry workers with a weakness for rock climbing) and are reminded that although every other piece of vegetation on the Chief is open game in the name of benevolently making more moderate rock available to the masses, the cedar at the base of the Pillar is both valiant and nigh sacrosanct.
Reminds me of the Golden Spruce and it's demise at the hands of a man driven mad by mass hypocrisy.
Perry the Logger
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 20, 2013 - 11:04am PT
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Haha Perry, I don't think any of us are even remotely considering actually chopping the tree. I only brought it up for the troll's amusement. It appears that I have succeeded.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 20, 2013 - 12:21pm PT
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I don't think it will be merch for another 20 years or so anyways
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Sep 20, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
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BK,
No, I didn't know Grant Hadwin but learned that he was based out of The Goldbridge area.
He was apparently a man of prodigious strength and capacity and a genius at laying out roadways to inaccessible timber.
He swam icy rivers, drank hard liquor straight by the forty pounder and would routinely pass out in ditches in the worst of weather.
He lost his faith in the forestry system and some would say he lost his mind as well.
The veneration of a single mutant spruce in the desolation of the former splendor of the Juskatla Spruce Flats on Haida Gwaii became the focal point for his frustration.
While I don't agree that he should have killed The Golden Spruce, I totally understand and agree with his premise.
Grant Hadwin was a tragic product of his time and his epic undertaking will resonate with those who care to examine his story.
Meanwhile, back at The Stand..........
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Sep 20, 2013 - 01:15pm PT
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Berntsen, Robinson, Howe, Shemko and a host of Renaissance Rednecks who have defied the ill informed stereotyping of people who made their living logging.
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MH2
climber
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Sep 20, 2013 - 07:43pm PT
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when I read that book
Have you also read The Tiger, also by John Vaillant?
There is a curious connection between the two having to do with with logging economies. I saw John Vaillant introduce the movie Conflict Tiger in Vancouver. I have a hard time seeing him as the voice for any kind of redneck but that may be small-minded of me. I have not read The Golden Spruce but was fascinated by the story.
Thank goodness that climbers are either mostly sane or crazy the same way I am.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 20, 2013 - 10:46pm PT
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This is good stuff. The man you speak of Perry, sounds interesting & worth looking into.
Did the last day of summer pass Bruce? I manged to get the hell out there just in time perhaps, mwaaahaha.
gf was crackin me up back there.
gf
climber
Sep 19, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
Oh for god sakes, I've met 20 year olds that act older than 80+ dudes the only thing to fear is having to spend time with someone who's not curious.
Edit- Big Mike, what day u getting to the walley?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2013 - 10:51pm PT
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We'll be in yellow pines by tuesday afternoon. I hear you're coming up wednesday? You wanna hit Cookie Cliff or something?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 22, 2013 - 12:58am PT
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Time for more pictures. These are from a few years ago on a day in the Valley of Shaddai.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 22, 2013 - 01:14pm PT
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Note lack of bald patch and paunch. Something wrong there....
I think he did a deal with some dark power. No other way to explain it.
If you run into him and/or Jola, say hi for me.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
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Nice pics guys! Thanks!! Cool to put a face to Mr Sanford!
We're on the road at the moment, headed to Seattle. We fly out to Yosemite Tuesday morning. Yeehaw!!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 22, 2013 - 02:48pm PT
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Mike -- if you need a place to stay, or a meal, or a beer, while you're in Seattle, let me know
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2013 - 03:01pm PT
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Thanks Dave! What's the best park and fly for seatac?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 22, 2013 - 05:17pm PT
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What's the best park and fly for seatac?
I've always been happy with Park'n'Jet. Bunch of Indian guys running what looks like a total lo-rent operation, but they've always been good to us. Shuttle service in the middle of the night with only a very short wait, for example. And one time I left an interior light on in the car so the battery was dead when I got back a week later. No problem -- they gave me a boost and wouldn't take any money for it. I think they recently opened a second lot, but I've always used the old one (18220 8th Ave South (just off Des Moines Memorial Dr) at the southeast corner of the airport.
Their website is http://www.parknjetseatac.com/ and you probably need to reserve.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2013 - 05:35pm PT
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Awesome Dave! 50 bucks!! Can't beat that!!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 23, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
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Fresh snow and low freezing levels 'round Squamish (even Omega had a dusting today) mean the Scots would say it's legit "winter conditions"
better sharpen yer poons
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Sep 23, 2013 - 11:42pm PT
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Great Vito story Bruce and dam that young gun Jim, how the hell does he get pipes like that!
What's all this talk about snow, the season is just getting started down here at JT.
I found some ratty old tri cams on my rack last week , yours from when we climbed in Skaha? I have to return to the Great White North and serve a few months penance before they allow back to the land of eternal sunshine, I'll make sure those units get back to you.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2013 - 12:43am PT
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Nice story Bruce, but how did you know my elementary school nickname?? ;)
Anyone else thinking thanksgiving skaha trip???
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 24, 2013 - 02:03am PT
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The rain may cometh so we should all have Skanksgiving in Penticton. See you there.
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MH2
climber
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Sep 26, 2013 - 09:01pm PT
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Fine day today
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Rolfr
Social climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Sep 26, 2013 - 09:59pm PT
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A routes waiting for you at Skaha Mike, I will be up in Princeton but will come down for the day if you want to take a few burns on it. After all it's sport climbing and working routes is part of the game.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Sep 30, 2013 - 11:10pm PT
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I'm hoping to get up The Sheriffs Badge this weekend, the climbing ain't over....
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Yeah fishboy,
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Good ideas Bruce, think I'll just stay in bed & talk sh#t on supertopo until I go to work. Speaking of marine life, a few tuna swam past me on the smoke bluff loop yesterday.
Locust garden?! Are u nuts?!?!
Fortune kitten is a much more quality Asian culinary venue.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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No Bruce, I wish. I was only able to go for a week, got back on Friday.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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where can i hire a caribou to prefilter those 'nitas thru the kidneys for me?
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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^^^
Just gobble them down and drink your own pee. Any good Siberian Shaman worth his salt will tell you that. You think Caribou grow on trees?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
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Doh!! Skaha weather ain't looking so hot this weekend!! I think we need to invest in a giant dome to protect our rocks from the rain... Lol
Edit: they just changed it. And for some reason i thought this weekend was thanksgiving.. Duh
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Is that the Christmas mushroom Bruce?? U sticking around here this fall or making a break for it?
Anyone climb the past few days before the park closed again?
Big Mike was spotted hiking flyin circus yesterday which was cool to see, I shoulda snapped a shot but was busy trying to keep up & reel slack :-)
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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you can only eat a small amount, like a 1/4 cap of the amanita, the other ones you can eat as many as you can stomach
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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It's the ibotenic acid in Amanita muscaria that is the poison and it varies wildly from mushroom to mushroom so it's always a risk fooling around with those ones. Nicer to look at in my opinion. They love birch tree drip lines.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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I ate a whole 5" cap once. Whoa. I was camping in Tuolumne and found a bunch of them. After about an hour I started into delirium and just decided to crash. I closed my eyes and after a few breaths I stared to leave my body. I can remember lifting up over Lembert dome and I started to head south and can remember flying over Half Dome. I don't remember anything after that and awoke to the sound of my own breath, thinking it was a bear breathing over me and being to scared to open my eyes. I never wanted to eat any more after that.
Ya wanna hear my sillycybin stories?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Silly
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Luckily I had read a few books on the subject and was smart enough to do some spore prints to make sure I wasn't eating "the Death Angel". I also met a few people that had tried them. Not something to casually experiment with.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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According to Wasson's "Soma, Divine Mushroom of Immortality" Amanita Muscaria has been consumed by a number of ancient cultures including the Vedic and Scandinavian for the mysterious mind altering effects of it's psychoactive ingredient muscimol.
Apparently the Viking Berserkers were high on Amanita's before going into battle.
The Laplanders fed Amanita's to their reindeer to detoxify and drank the urine;aaarrrggghhh.
Amanita Muscaria is the toadstool typically evident in European woodland mythology depicting gnomes and other mythical entities.
They were high.
Amanitas form a symbiotic mycorrhiza (symbiotic fungal association) with pine and birch forests and splendid examples can be found in the autumn over much of North America.
Ingesting them is not for the faint of heart as their texture and flavour is utterly repugnant.
Drying them and chewing a few pieces is achievable if washed down by beer.
The high is unlike psilocybin.
Amanitas are described as toxic but this is probably cautionary due to their psychoactive effect.
Be careful not to confuse muscaria with pantherina a much more toxic version.
Happy shroomin.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Yes, even the silly ones can be scary.
When High Times first came out there were ads for mushroom growing kits. I had to have one. They were great. Eventually, my brother and I built an inoculation hood with the arm-length rubber gloves and we went into production. The first batch had to be tried and we ate what was considered a normal dose-about two grams. Too much. It was a scary trip and I wasn't liking it. I had read somewhere that a gram of Niacin will bring you right down. I didn't read the part that says you get this all over skin flush where you think you are burning up. I thought I was going to die right before I got better. Scared the living crap out of me.
Edit- Yeah Perry, Wasson's was one the books I read. Interesting material.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
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Last night definetly got silly, in the chief campground...
Hazy bouldering..
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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This is what the Squish guidebook looks like, with a chemical assist.
Great day in the Koots. Forecast high of 21C. Heading for the crags, now that it's warmed up.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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^^^^
looks like someone is copping a feel. LOL.
edit-Tami is too quick fer me.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Maybe we shouldn't climb today. Let's just sit here.....
That's how the Smoke Bluffs became a climbing area.
"What do wanna do?"
"Oh, man, I'm too stoned to climb."
"Same with me. So let's go do something in the bluffs."
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Ah yes, the old too stoned for stone syndrome.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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^ that's the move Tami ;-)
Some of the best bouldering I have done has been while sleeping on my crashpad.
Psyche ledge silly cybin'
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MH2
climber
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Well, we were warned.
From
Accidents in North American Mountaineering 1985
FALL ON ROCK, AMANITA MUSHROOMS
Wyoming, Tetons
At 0915 on August 10, 1984, LW (37) and DN(36) left the Lupine Meadows parking area for a climb on the Petzoldt Ridge of the Grand Teton. Nearing the spring on the first switchback up from the Valley Trail junction, LN noticed some mushrooms that he thought were the same variety that he and a friend had eaten before.There were about five of them in a small damp grove just off the trail and they washed them off and LW ate two and DN ate just one.
An hour later as they were approaching the Surprise Lake drainage, LW mentioned that he felt sick to his stomach. Farther along, travel through the section of boulders past the Platforms area became more difficult as they both felt very dizzy and their vision was distorted by not being able to focus on just any one thing.
They slept for a while, became unable to control their extremities, experienced a dreamlike level of consciousness, and DN laughed for extended periods of time. Realizing that they were in trouble and convinced that they might die, DN tried to get up to the Meadows for help, but fell and twisted his right ankle.
[Rangers on patrol in Garnet Canyon find the climbers, heli them to hospital, vomiting is induced and by next morning the climbers feel normal.]
ANALYSIS
Debbie Reber of the Student Conservation Association went up to the Garnet Canyon on August 11 and collected all the remaining mushrooms. With the help of two amateur mycologists, the mushrooms in question were keyed out to be the Amanita variety. What with horses, climbers, and other critters up there, one never knows what may grow from one year to the next. (Source: J. Williamson)
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Substance-free pebble wrestling.
FA South Face Direct
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Doesn't the legend state that Yabo first noticed the line of holds that became Midnight Lightning while goofed on shrooms?
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Yabo had his moments of clarity. Like that time he ate those shrooms...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 10, 2013 - 08:36pm PT
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Blue sky butt shot bump
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Rolfr
Social climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Oct 10, 2013 - 10:51pm PT
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"Too Blue To Screw". An easy start to a dam hard move over the lip, often mistaken for "Too Pink to Think " which follows the crack on the left.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 10, 2013 - 11:36pm PT
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Oh really Rolf?? That's funny, I always thought the one with the bolt at the lip was too pink. If so, too pink is lookin pretty forsaken these days. Note the bushes growin outta the start of too blue at the start. Some nice brambles & cobwebs up under the roof too! Really cool routes actually & quite different from the avg smoke bluffs fare.
So the one on the right is "too brown to frown" & The most difficult?
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Rolfr
Social climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Oct 11, 2013 - 02:20am PT
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Too Pink to Think 11B far left overgrown crack, Too Blue to Screw , centre route with bolt 12A, furthest right is Too Brown to Frown 11A follows a couple bolts then traverses right and up.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 11, 2013 - 03:19am PT
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Thanks Rolf I don't have a guidebook these days.
So that's 12a huh? We thought we were on the 11b lol. Second time this week I've been sandbagged. I thought where ancients fear to tread was some other 5.9 when I got on it with big mike the other day. I's like "WTF this is some full on 5.9 right here" a few times on that one. After the sandbagging today we went & tried the hangover, a totally different type of sandbag which felt harder than the first sandbag, a lot of climbing on that little hangover guy there is.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Oct 11, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
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Me too Ryan, I think its written the other way around in the guide book. I tried Toasted Tits and thought that was quite stout as well...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 12, 2013 - 01:17pm PT
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Well yeah Bruce, I can tell its indian summer because I'm takin a forced rest day right now. After 4 days straight of climbing cracks, clipping bolts & wresting pebbles in Squam this week i Feel like I've been on a climbing trip. Only dif is I get to go to work every day after climbing & showers & my own bed are readily available. I'm pooped! Hopefully you guys are takin advantage of these primo conditions too. Fall is my favorite time to climb around here, so pretty & the friction is really starting to get good.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 12, 2013 - 11:44pm PT
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there might be some good somethin somethin up in the alpine too what with two foot of snow and then a week of hot sunny days and freezing nights
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Oct 14, 2013 - 04:42am PT
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the easy side
and a tidbit of an extensive trip into the land of the free..
The sky above me was dark and closer to my face then I was comfortable with. I rolled over in my bivy sack and buried my face in the thermorest, milking the last minutes of fuzzy sleep in the warmth of my cocoon. I stumbled upright stiff from the previous days thrashing up wild chimneys and steep cracks and lit the stove with a woosh of flame before tossing the pot atop and walking into the forest to relieve myself. The overcast skies were low and a blur of white and I wondered at their intentions as I dumped thick coffee from pot to cup to mouth while fiddling with a smoke and shivering off the early morning chill. A familiar face appeared behind a car at the opposite end of the parking lot and I trotted over to greet some old friends that had happened into this little part of the world at such an opportune time. We chatted while I absorbed my coffee and chatted about each others plans for the day and I received a parting gift of some sweet herbs before heading off to the trail head. I wandered up the switchbacks leading into the mountains with calm thoughts and took a few moments to observe the world waking up slowly to greet the quiet grey day. I floated up the path, wandering along logs over a river and crisscrossing steep boulder fields and fallen trees up towards the base of the wall. Steaming with sweat I peeled layers off and tied them high in a tree and out of reach of the goats which frequent the area before sitting back to puff a smoke and study the rock. I heard a voice above me and realized I had not risen as early as I had hoped and that a party of two were just starting the route. I stayed quiet and listened to them discuss the plan for the day as they organized themselves before discreetly alerting them to my presence and joining the belayer on his ledge as a couple dozen miniscule water droplets dribbled from the sky onto my hands, making me wince. I sat on the rock and thought hard about the possibility of just heading back to camp content with a pleasant hike but as I considered this I glanced down to the sloping grass just below my feet and met eyes with a pure white goat chewing his breakfast of alpine grass. He bowed his head to grab another bite before looking at me once more and tilting his head ever so slightly to ask me “what are you waiting for?” I looked back at the clouds once more, calculating their movements, judging their weight, and then called their bluff. I danced past the belayers stance and he wished me a good day as I continued up pleasant corners following the parties rope to join the leader. I gave him a smile as I walked past him and down climbed a few moves before continuing the traverse towards a large ledge as he built an anchor to bring up the second. The ledge was spacious and I sat down to swap my sneakers for the security of my climbing shoes before sliding my hands into the rock and pressing my feet onto the wall. Good holds lead me through a short steep section of questionable rock which I delicately poked and prodded as I moved higher to a small alcove. From here I peered around the corner of my cranny at the traversing crack leading off to the right and blew hot air into my cold hands one at a time whilst studying the terrain. I worked my way onto the face pressing my toes confidently on only the highest quality footholds as I slowly unlocked the sequence move by move until I reached a field of knobs leading to a right facing corner which I delightfully worked through until I stood before the headwall crack which split the mountain through the middle and seemed to glow with some mystical light as though I had just solved some ancient riddle unlocking the doors to some long forgotten treasure. I plunged hands deep into the stone and swore to ignore the convenient nobs peppering the rock before paddling my way upwards into the expanse of granite. As hard as it was to disrupt such fluid motion I forced myself to pause and study my position, peering past my feet to the sloping hills below I caught a glimpse of the tiny white Buddha who still grazed on the sweet grasses and then swept my gaze back to my present situation to study the knobby surface of the vertical world I was submerged in. The splitter crack shot upwards from where I was to where I could not see and I grew curious and eager as to what lay next until I could not wait any longer and shuffled my feet once more, upwards and onwards. A thin section appeared before me and I cranked finger tips into ancient piton scars and pulled my weight over a high foot to reach better holds, swimming into the sky. The crack petered out after a couple hundred feet and I danced over knobs through a small roof as the angle lessened and I became upright once more returning to the realm of man. My hands; now free of their duty, awoke to the cold and I hopped around on top of the mountain with a nasty case of the screamin barfies as I tried to take of my climbing shoes with loudly complaining fingertips. I looked around for a second at the world, now awake and puttering along with the duties a new day brings before darting down the descent gully pretending to be a young mountain goat hopping from precarious stance to precarious stance with delight. I wandered back to the base in time to wish luck to my friends whom I ran into earlier in the morning as they set off on an adventure all their own. I scampered down to the river and found a seat upon a large boulder to enjoy a smoke and observe the vast numbers of people who had appeared from the valley below to search these cliffs for whatever delights they may offer before I cast off back to camp full of wonder and questions wishing I would meet my white haired mountain friend once more.
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Fish Finder
Social climber
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Oct 14, 2013 - 10:43am PT
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Nice writing brownie
Happy Thanksgiving!
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MH2
climber
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Oct 14, 2013 - 11:11am PT
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Good navigating the day, brownie.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 14, 2013 - 11:22am PT
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Brownie, Gregg!
Happy thanksgiving!
My belly is making wierd noises this morning.
Nice story Brownie, welcome home!
why u sleeping in a bivy sac? U get kicked outta the car?
Sounds like u solo'd outer space cuz i cant think of any other levy route that woukd be excusable to skip a day of bouldering on-Badasssssssssss!!!
Edit- happy thanksgiving to u too Mh2!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 15, 2013 - 12:11pm PT
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Bruce - conditions are bomber up high, plums are ripe
Zero Gully
Never mind this "winter is coming" BS. Winter (conditions) is here.
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quelly
climber
BC
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Oct 15, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
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<why u sleeping in a bivy sac? U get kicked outta the car?>
...the bivy was self-inflicted, the weenie.
Hi Ryan, hi Brownie, hi Gregg (which profile are you?). I succumbed to the FB for climbers...hooked!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 15, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
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...and ditched for thai food n lukewarm hottubs.
Hi quelly! Come to sunny Squam this weekend yo!
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MH2
climber
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Oct 15, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
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Any sightings of Mr. Annapurna south face solo? Heard he was visiting. Squamish keeps coming up in the world.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 15, 2013 - 11:23pm PT
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Whattup "quelly"! Post up some pics!!
Gregg posts as fishfinder.
Y'all and ur icicles are nuts, although I like lookin at the photos. Temps are perfect at the pet. No crampons are required, although they would probably help.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2013 - 12:17am PT
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Quelly- What's up!!
Nice story Brownie! Sounds intense! Glad to hear you got to shred some gnar on your trip.
Nice work Dru! Getting after it early!!
Sandra and i are currently passing through Lytton, after a beautiful Skaha thanksgiving visit.
Here's a couple pics, by the fabulous Phil Tifo from our visit.
Sandra on Granola Bar 5.7
Getting High on Granola!
We also got a chance to hang with Rolf today, which was awesome!
I'll probably get to that, tomorrow.. Hopefully.., lol
Edit- can we drytool at pet?? Lol or would we be summarily shot for such nonsense?....
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Fish Finder
Social climber
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Oct 16, 2013 - 04:59am PT
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Hey quelly,
welcome to the skirmish... umm....I mean Squamish thread
Dont be afraid to join in on some of the stupid american threads
The extended visit after the park closed was fun with you and brownie
and yeah ... like ryand said .." Post up some pics!!"
Sweet action BM and Sandra... peace ,love and granola!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 16, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
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Drytooling at Pet kinda misses the point. Too many natural holds. You need some crag like the Neurotic Climbing Wall hole ladder or Forgotten Wall where you can go chip-to-chip
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 16, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
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Yes Mike, summarily shot. Some would argue that any dry tooling anywhere kinda misses the point but there's probably another thread around here to talk about that kind of stuff :-)
Skaha looks nice.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
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Forgotten Wall where you can go chip to chip
Hahahaha... Totally! I'm just kidding of course! Skaha was beautiful. A little cold in the shade, but puffy's were made for a reason. Friction was excellent.
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Rolfr
Social climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Oct 17, 2013 - 02:04am PT
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I've heard rumours that Dry tooling at Squish = Cacodemon Boulder the drilled route.
Or else wait for the smears at the Bluffs and the Chief to form. I prefer the warmer climates but are there any good tales about climbing the numerous thin ice smears around the Chief?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2013 - 02:21am PT
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Good question. Anyone ever touch those gnarly smears on opal wall? I know Diedre has at least one successful ascent.
BK has mentioned that Angels Crest is a prime candidate for a mixed ascent mid winter, as my experiences proved last fall. That tale has been retold in the new Alpinist 44, Full Value section, and you'll find it on reputable magazine shelves now.
Here's a sneak peak..
Thanks to Martyr for the photo.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 17, 2013 - 02:33am PT
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Nice Big Mike!! Can't wait to check that out!!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 17, 2013 - 09:35am PT
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Wow, grats Mike!
Sign my tits!
;-)
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MH2
climber
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Oct 17, 2013 - 10:36am PT
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Good going, Mike. Really like the Andreas illustration that could be any climbing era and is pitch-perfect The Acrophobes and reminds of watching Sergeant Preston of the Yukon as a kid.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Oct 17, 2013 - 10:40am PT
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Hey my granite loving brothers from the north...
Good job on the Alpinist story there Mike.
I read it on my patio this morning wearing flip flops. ;-)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 17, 2013 - 11:31am PT
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I read it on my patio this morning wearing flip flops. ;-)
A low blow!
But big congratulations to Mike
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 17, 2013 - 12:01pm PT
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Nicely done Mike! My two years of free subscriptions ran out with 43 so I'm gonna have to bike to the store and buy it like a working class stiff.
Rolf: my introduction to ice climbing was on those thin smears you mention. went to climb Shannon Falls in 96 but there were already around 6 parties on it when we got there. We bouldered around on some thin stuff at what is now AMO Wall and then went and laid siege to a 25 m high slab of verglas at Furry Creek
Stubais were too short to make good clubs though
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
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Hahahahhahaha! Nice pic Dru! You guys are wacky! ;)
Thanks everyone! I'm pretty stoked! Thanks to Tami for the opportunity and to Matt Samet and Katie Ives for their amazing editing skills, to help this trip report evolve into a true story!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
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I haven't got one yet either, although i don't have a subscription, and i'm not even sure they have my address.. Lol. I should probably call the office and find out.. Lol
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Oct 17, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
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The metric version is still being printed...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 17, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
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^^^
It has 1.4 times more pages.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 19, 2013 - 12:18am PT
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After a beauty lunch at Kozo Cafe, and a brief heckle of T-Mac laying some brick down, I met up with Kyle to go do some rock scampering. We picked up Brownie to come join us but we think he was still a little too disheveled from yesterday's epic solo journey. So Kyle out of nowhere suggested we do Frail Scales. I hell yah'd that one.
It was a little chilly, noisy, and dirty at the bottom of it. The fun climbing up bomber layback flakes made you forget that you were right beside the highway.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 19, 2013 - 12:48am PT
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I know eh??? Bet ya those motoruses were wonderin who those retarted kooks were up there.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2013 - 01:03am PT
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Nice! Looks fun! Kyle's been eager to get on that one for ahwile!
Did he send it clean?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 19, 2013 - 01:07am PT
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Ya he did. It was kinda a featherbag 10d. The flakes are cruiser. Theres a sorta tricky mantle near the top though. I hung there cuz I was being a weenie crying about frozen fingers.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2013 - 01:14am PT
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You need the handwarmers in your chalkbag buddy!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 19, 2013 - 01:26am PT
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Frozen fings
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 19, 2013 - 09:36am PT
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They just let me back from sunny Utah where the fings thrive with blood and boogers. Let me be. Don't make me go Momo on yer asss.
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MH2
climber
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Oct 19, 2013 - 11:40am PT
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Good choice with Frail Scales. Drive past it every trip to Squamish, never saw anyone on it, but often thought of, and heard about, especially from Robert N who was up under that mantle when the rain came. I think he had to wait there while someone walked up to lower a rope.
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squamishmonkey
Trad climber
Squamish
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Oct 20, 2013 - 12:55am PT
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This might be my new favorite trad line is Squamish.
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thesiger
climber
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Oct 20, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
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Any sightings of Mr. Annapurna south face solo? Heard he was visiting. Saw Ueli at Pet Wall around the end of August. He was climbing Blackwater at a fairly normal speed, belayed by a european woman (wife? GF?). It was weirdly unexceptional. A bunch of us, included Ueli, ended up sheltering from a rain shower under the same tree, but were all too coy/ polite for an "OMG! You're Ueli Steck!" let alone any sherpa punch-up jokes ...
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MH2
climber
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Oct 20, 2013 - 11:37pm PT
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Thank you, thesiger. One of the many cool things about climbing is that you can be outstanding and famous and people will still treat you with the respect due to a normal person.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 21, 2013 - 12:07am PT
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One of the many cool things about climbing is that you can be outstanding and famous and people will still treat you with the respect due to a normal person.
Or dump on you and call you out on the internet as the scum of the univere.
Strange days.
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MH2
climber
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Oct 21, 2013 - 11:25pm PT
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Yes. I wasn't thinking of internet, just person to person. Says the guy who posts.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 23, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
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Hey there, say Big Mike, I went out and bought some new shoes yesterday and picked up the Alpinist #44. Really nice writing. Your voice really comes through on the pages. Proud stuff.
I actually bought two pairs of relatively comfortable shoes. Hopefully tomorrow I will get to try them out with Norwegian down at Lover's Leap. Woot!
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Oct 23, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
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the 120
Yo-see-mite
rock
rock on!
on rock.
owen's river observer
oops a leak..
dang, forgot my tire.. but ooh look at the little river!
f*#k. i love this place.
these guys think it's neat too..
the minarets
pine creek
buttermilk road
windmills
early morning sun
leavenworth
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 23, 2013 - 05:13pm PT
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Yeah Brownie. Way to tell it like it is.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 23, 2013 - 05:13pm PT
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Yeah Brownie. Way to tell it like it is.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 23, 2013 - 06:12pm PT
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Nice pics Brownie
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 23, 2013 - 06:12pm PT
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Nice pics Brownie.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2013 - 08:45pm PT
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^^^^^
Lol
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2013 - 08:45pm PT
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^^^^^
Lol
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 23, 2013 - 09:18pm PT
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Subspace Anomaly.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 23, 2013 - 09:18pm PT
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Subspace Anomaly.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 24, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
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Is there an echo in here?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 25, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
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How many unclimbed slabs can you think of that come with a campsite with a hot spring at the base?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Oct 25, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
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Clear Creek area?
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micro_marc
Gym climber
Squamish
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Oct 26, 2013 - 12:43am PT
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It was nice to catch sunrise from the summit of Lydia mountain last Saturday. This lovely lady scrambled the SE ridge while I scratched my front points on the E face under a full moon. The peaks of the tantalus are fantastic.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Oct 26, 2013 - 12:56am PT
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Glenn,
Inside info?
How was SA? Any summits?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Oct 26, 2013 - 01:50am PT
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Hi Hamie,
Great trip, no summits. The snows came really early this year, and the peaks were out of shape above 5000 metres. But a highly enjoyable holiday.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Oct 26, 2013 - 09:55pm PT
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Good to hear that it was only the peaks that "were out of shape"!
LOL :) H.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2013 - 03:14pm PT
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Hamie sent me this last weekend:
i have a favour to ask. pls post this link to "Mt Nimbus" on the squamish thread. imo it is a terrible example of the "disneyfication" of climbing and the dumbing down of our mountains etc. a playground for the very rich. i would post it myself, but i dont know how. you can say that i asked you to post it, and that i hate it!! should generate some discussion/controversy. anything for a buck.
http://www.youtube.com:80/watch?v=ap0p_V9ILUw&feature=share
cheers,
H.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Sorry i haven't been more vocal lately, but works been hectic. Gotta get er done before the snow falls!!
Glad to hear you picked up some new rubber wayno!! How did the do on fantasia??
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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I am very curious about the responses to the Via Ferrata here. Flame on! I'm not sure what to think about it. One seems O.K. but if there is another, will they start to multiply?
Big Mike, the shoes are nice. I think I could climb several pitches now, without too much grief. Climbing with the Weege was way cool. Smooth and strong.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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The dood in the via Ferrata vid made me laugh.
I don't know what to think of it but I'm with Hamie :-)
Another nice(enough) day in Squamish.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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BM thanks for posting the link. I expected more reaction from the usual suspects.......
I think that we are done for this year in the Koots.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Nov 12, 2013 - 01:23pm PT
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Bump for content
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 12, 2013 - 05:20pm PT
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But that's the way of it today, eh? Give the appearance of doing something risky but never really getting into a situation where you could burst into flames.
So do you think the Squamish gondola would be more acceptable if a randomly selected passenger were set on fire once a week or so?
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Nov 12, 2013 - 05:24pm PT
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Interestingly the one that is on the chief is packed with kid to grandparents on every sunny day, three peak traverse. Personally that one seems like its well thought out and takes a little of the regular trail load and spreads it out a tad.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 12, 2013 - 06:10pm PT
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just dump Squamish's garbage there, it will attract bears, which will then randomly feed on tourons too.
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MH2
climber
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Nov 12, 2013 - 08:27pm PT
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Interestingly the one that is on the chief is packed with kid to grandparents on every sunny day, three peak traverse. Personally that one seems like its well thought out and takes a little of the regular trail load and spreads it out a tad.
Also handy to the photographer who is on the 2nd peak and wants to find out who they just took a picture of on the 1st.
And what 10-year-old could resist?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 12, 2013 - 09:08pm PT
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roadman
climber
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Nov 12, 2013 - 10:13pm PT
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Re: that video! WTF?
Can't really understand who'd put that in, or who'd let them. What a shame.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Nov 13, 2013 - 03:25am PT
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This sourpuss would gladly launch that bridge. They should re-name it Mt. Dumbass.
Where's the tea-house?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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The cold is here!
BK let us know what's in around Squish?
Remember, Vancouver ice climbers line up 10 deep for half frozen Shannon Falls. Soon you'll be able to gondola back down in time for a second lap the same day!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Ms. Chief and I are hosting our annual solstice bonfire two weeks today.
If this sounds familiar, you know the drill, if it doesn't, never mind.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Ms. Chief and I are hosting our annual solstice bonfire two weeks today.
Just in the door, and online, and the first post I see is this one. Which is way beyond weird, because we'd gone out for dinner and the way the booths were set up in the Mexican restaurant we were in, the only thing I could see of the guy in the next booth was the top of his head and his eyes.
My reaction on first glance was "Holy shit! Is Perry in town?" but then he raised his head a bit, and from the eyes down he was not Perry at all.
Still, weird to think of you that way and then have you pop up on my monitor.
Dunno if we'll make it this year or not, but good wishes anyway.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
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Wooo hoooo!! Looking forward to this!! Hopefully since we just got our arctic blast, we'll have reasonable temps for this event!!
I have some pics and stories to post soon!!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Big Mike,
Looking forward to seeing you and Sandra.
Assuming you'll spread the word to the rest of the gang.
I can't remember if we had a separate thread for this event and thought this would be a good place to put the word out.
This is year six and each one gets a little bigger.
PB
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
|
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Hi Perry,
I've never been to one of these. I'll try and make it, if I'm welcome and if the weather is good.
Glenn
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Glenn,
You're most welcome and it would be great to see you there.
No guarantees on the weather but we have been real lucky.
(Weather's always good by the fire, just don't wear your nice outdoor gear.)
Family oriented stuff (at least until the children leave).
Free bivi sites (in your car or the dirt), no drinking and driving.
PB
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Greg,
Obviously, it was work not recreation, right?
PB
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nice one gf!
Hi Chief. Maybe if you guys are up late ill stop by after work. Was fun last year, cheers.
Had fun climbing in Squamish today with Kieran, Cormier, Relic & lurker Kyle!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
|
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Bloody cold, no doubt, RyanD!
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
|
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Dec 10, 2013 - 08:26pm PT
|
you have entered..
the twilight zone.......
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2013 - 12:20am PT
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Glenn, look forward to seeing you!
Ice eh? hmm.. looks interesting...
Awhile ago, Ryan made reference to an afternoon spent at Neat and Cool, with Mr Tifo and Dcp. It was a glorious overcast day, late fall. Crisp but not too cold, we were still climbing in t-ahirts.
Ryan getting hydrated before his ascent of flying circus at my request.
Neat and Cool and the Chief
Electra and Lily loving it.
Ryan cruising the Circus while Tifo belays
There was another party on Fear of Flying and we managed to share the real estate quite cordially. It felt hard for me, but I still remembered every move and managed to crank through it.
After that Dave joined us and we ended up somewhere near Where Ancients Fear To Tread. I was looking for Gross Incompetence but i didn't have a guide, and apparently Ryan never climbs with a guide these days..(lol)
Ryan starts up Ancients
Unknown climber projecting Kangaroo Crack
Upward pano
Ryan spent awhile at the crux, but solved it clean. He also finished up the 11a Crux of Toasted Tits.
Dave belaying Tifo
Dave on WAFTT
Dave didn't finish the climb and Ryan and Tifo both had to peace out, so that left me to take it down. The crux for me was getting out of the horizontal with my hands and onto my feet. Ryan took the draw off the bolt, so I took a couple big penji's trying the move.
After the third one, I decided I needed a different approach, and climbed Geritol to get above the horizontal, and then foot traversed it all the way across. Back no worse for wear.
It was fun. I'm hoping things don't warm up too quick in the morning!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Dec 11, 2013 - 12:25am PT
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Mmm climbing juice. Hope the recovery is going well mike. Sounds like you are climbing so not too bad ehh.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2013 - 12:46am PT
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Thanks! No, not too bad.. All in all. Happy to be upright and active! ;)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 11, 2013 - 12:58am PT
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Yep, regarding being paralyzed you could say Big Mike is a has been :-)
Cool shots Mike! That was probably the hardest 5.9 I've done lol! Super fun day, it was rad to see u crush the flying circus. My how time flies eh?
Re: the ice climbers
There goes the neighborhood!!!
Here they were just yesterday, back when they were boulderers.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 11, 2013 - 01:24pm PT
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jeez drop those heels, man!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2013 - 06:36pm PT
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I got up at 6:30am this morning. I really didn't want to, but it was supposed to get warm this morning, and we needed work on dropping our heels.. ;)
After meeting Luke and Kieran at Luke's, we wandered over to the bluffs to look for smears.
Luke getting pysched for climbing?
Ahh.. Ice climbing!
Kieran lacing em up.
Getting his kick on.
Ice topropers
More in a bit...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 11, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
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Is that Sunice puffy some thrift score find? It looks like something Barry Blanchard woulda worn in 1982
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
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I dunno. Either that, or a hand me down from someone. It's definitely out of the 80's!!
Yesterday was pretty fun. I'm pretty bagged today. Especially my shoulders and back..
Kieran gets his reach on.
Does this thing have a name Dru?
Me with the kit on.
Luke Cormier photo
A ferncicle in the corner
Kyle came out and showed us all up. He charged up the smear.
Then he wanted to go try a new rock climb at Krack Rock while Luke climbed, so we headed over there.
Eventually the boys finished up and wandered over to us. They checked out the ice left of Krack Rock but there was quite a bit of water under it which deterred them.
I pointed out the nice formation on the left side of Cabin Boys, so Kieran soloed up there.
After hangdogging my way up the thuggy new 10c corner that Kyle put up, (Endurance just isn`t there yet, and my fingers were freezing.)
We went to go see what the boys were up to. Luke was stoked, after his lap. The start was really thin, so some mandatory dry tooling was involved to get established. "I fell off like four times trying to get on." Luke said.
Kieran got his go next.
My turn was next, and it felt really good this time. Getting established was tricky, but i managed to get on after a couple bails. By the top i felt awesome on my front points and was stepping up easily after one kick..
Luke had to run after my lap and Kyle was more interested in rock so he hit up a couple more pitches on the left side of cabin boys.
Kyle on the Lumpy Why 10b
Gotta love climbing rock and ice on the same day!
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MH2
climber
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Dec 12, 2013 - 02:36pm PT
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And love Squamish Photos and Stories.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 12, 2013 - 03:33pm PT
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Yup - Alice on Ice, cause "Alice" is the summer rock route.
I see the latest hot rigs around Squamish were this Emmett and Finlayson M10 behind Brandywine Falls and Cordy soloed something thin and steep at the Longhouse, maybe just for pics though rather than to a top out?
M10 for your first time with ice tools, that's gotta be interesting.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 12, 2013 - 03:35pm PT
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This also reminds me that a good way to evaluate someone's thin-ice technique is to check the size of the pile of ice chunks at the base of the climb when they are done ;)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 12, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
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Big Mike at the crag in the am hours?!?!
Maybe hell froze over too ;-)
Ice climbing & rock climbing on the same cliff on the same day, that's cool.
Good stuff!
I saw Tim & Jaime the other morning & a few shots of what they were up to @ brandywine. Pretty wild stuff!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
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Thanks Andy. It's good to be back.
Nice to see you well armed and grinning Mike! I think that is called Alice - a great little strip of ice.
Thanks Bruce! Good word on Soloing too. I was careful to avoid that scenario.
Soo sounds fun, but i still need some gear. We were all using some borrowed gear. Top roping only for me at the moment.
Big Mike at the crag in the am hours?!?! I know right! Getting up at 6:30 sucked! :)
Here's a few more pics, courtesy of Kieran Brownie.
Big Mike on Alice
There was lots of chunks at the base of this one Dru! ;)
Luke on the CBO smear
Big Mike getting established
Me again.
Topping out
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Dec 12, 2013 - 10:16pm PT
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... trail breaking on the approaches doesn't look too bad...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2013 - 10:25pm PT
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Ya Todd. Pretty mellow. It was warm too! like 4 degrees c all day.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 12, 2013 - 11:40pm PT
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Its in the corner up and left, right? Does it form all ice or is it usually more of a mixed route Jim?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
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Wow, those two lower ones look nice!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 13, 2013 - 01:24am PT
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I have been totally diggin' this latest flurry of posts of "this crew" at play and having way too much fun. You guys rock! And Ice , too! I'm waist deep in life right now and all the cool pics and banter are a welcome relief. And I actually know most of these clowns, too! I am going to have to come up with a name for this sub-species, or has that already been done? Sure, I might be getting a little beer-eyed about now, but Big Mike and the crew, rock!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 13, 2013 - 01:48am PT
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Yeah, me too Wayne. Cheers man.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 13, 2013 - 01:58am PT
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That picture of Kieran is a gem. Daryl would be proud.
Edit- feckin aye.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Dec 13, 2013 - 02:01am PT
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... on the rocks?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2013 - 03:35pm PT
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I am going to have to come up with a name for this sub-species, or has that already been done?
Not sure. What do you call a climber who refuses to stop climbing despite the conditions? ;)
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Dec 13, 2013 - 06:53pm PT
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Answer: scottish or polish. flip a coin.
Or, a Caber, a Scottish Pole...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
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^^^^^ lol we ain't quite scottish... Lol
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 13, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
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Weenies. That is the term u are looking for that is generally thrown around.
Sometimes on the dust in the back window of my car it says "bolt clipping poofta" or something of the like, but maybe that's more specifically just for me :-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
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I heard there was a vandal leaving cryptic messages on cars in hospital hill!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 13, 2013 - 09:54pm PT
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I had this one on my car the other day.
It's getting serious Mike, but the cops have a photo of the suspect taken from some surveillance. Unfortunately it's from the back (I copied it from the crime stoppers website & posted below). They suspect by his hairstyle that his prime was somewhere between 1984-87 & he may be lashing out due to the furious pace of technology leaving him behind, they can't prove it but the criminal psychologist also suspects that he likely owns a pair of Lycra pants and wears them in secret with a bad boys club tank top & a rack of quickdraws while dancing & listening to flock of seagulls on something called a "tape"???
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 14, 2013 - 01:12am PT
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I was thinking, maybe "the Light Brigade". Not light as in lightweight, but rather light as illumination. Actually, the more I think about it, lightweight works. All except Big Mike, of course.
edit- rat tail? it looks a sparrow tail.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2013 - 03:10am PT
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Light brigade eh? Hmm you're right, most of these boys are a lot lighter than me! ;)
Weight wise that is.
Hey Ryan! I know that kid! I think he lives just down the block from ya!! ;)
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 14, 2013 - 10:29am PT
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Looks like the ubiquitous Northern Cliff Warbler, Lucas Cormierii
Solstice Bonfire reminder.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
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That's what i wuz thinkin!!
Edit Sunny and 5 degrees on Saturday according to Accuweather! WX looks great!!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 14, 2013 - 04:19pm PT
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All I'm saying is ice climbing can be seductively easy, but in the end the only thing seperating you from disaster are a few millimeters of steel, especially when you are soloing.
Ha ha. I think Tami knows a thing or two about the potential for disaster when soloing ice. The ride she almost took was over 2,000 feet, not just 200, and there just ain't no way the trees at the bottom were going to help her survive that one.
I've told the story here before, but for those of you that missed it, it's here.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2013 - 06:31pm PT
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Great story. No Tami! You're here for the Toonz!! ;)
Thanks for everything this past year. Love ya.
Mike
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 14, 2013 - 06:47pm PT
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Warnings? Toonz?
Silly me, this whole time I thought she was the voice of reason ;-)
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Relic
Social climber
Squamish, BC
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Dec 14, 2013 - 08:35pm PT
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I thought she was a footstool or an ewok?
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MH2
climber
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Dec 14, 2013 - 10:09pm PT
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Good steeps, Bruce.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
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Nice Bruce! Thanks. Looks rad. I really need to go down there.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 14, 2013 - 10:46pm PT
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You know what i find fascinating is how on any given mountain trip the hazard level hums along at a dull, pleasant low to non existent, or at least well within the realm of the bearable, then suddenly and often without much warning it jacks up like a richter 10 on an earthquake chart
What's really weird is when it goes from non-existent to "yer gonna die" in a microsecond. One sunny afternoon on the Kain Route on Bugaboo Spire I took a short detour out along a ledge on the SW face to absorb a bit of the view. Ledge was perfectly flat and about a meter wide. Not any kind of climbing at all, just strolling on a total sidewalk. And suddenly I was on my ass. No warning, no nothing. Just walking on a sidewalk and then down. Once I sorted myself out, I realized I'd stepped on an invisible patch of black ice. Could just as easily have been on the way to the glacier a thousand meters below.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Dec 15, 2013 - 03:18am PT
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I'm an iceman myself...
... and out of training!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 15, 2013 - 09:16am PT
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Thanks for posting the pictures Bruce. Mari said she had a great time -- I'm sorry I couldn't take the time off to join you, but glad you made it in for dinner that night.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 15, 2013 - 10:54am PT
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The area north of Hwy 2 near Gold Bar, just west of Index, was the holy ground of the "guns, beer, and off-road vehicle" crowd in Washington. All the time we spent up on Zeke's Wall we could hear the gunfire all day, and we'd see them driving around with beers in hand on our way out.
All of which would probably have been okay, except that their driving was destroying logging company roads and destroying salmon habitat, and the DNR eventually just forbade motorized access on that whole road system.
The ORV morons screamed about losing their God-given right to do whatever the f*#k they pleased, forgetting that in Washington State, God is represented on earth by the logging and fishing industries. (And Boeing, but that's a different story).
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MH2
climber
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Dec 15, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
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the "guns, beer, and off-road vehicle" crowd
Sounds like the civilization that succeeded the WORMS MAPS AMMO crowd Gold Bar once catered to.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Dec 15, 2013 - 09:31pm PT
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name that route!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 15, 2013 - 10:37pm PT
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Is this it?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
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Hmmm.. One of the Sunshine chimneys?? Not the easy one?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 16, 2013 - 12:25am PT
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North Gully chockstone
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Dec 16, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
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That's the one! a great adventure for those who don't know any better..
what about this one?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 16, 2013 - 09:27pm PT
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^^^^^theres a dude in there!
Is it pipeline?
What's this famous Squamish wall that Brownie is on.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Dec 16, 2013 - 09:28pm PT
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perhaps I should have mentioned it is in the United S's of A..
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MH2
climber
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Dec 16, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
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What?? Cedar is top of the (vegetable) hardness scale.
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MH2
climber
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Dec 16, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
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I well remember a conversation with Bryan Burdo on our way in to Triumph. I was complaining about some unlikely scene in a movie, such as the floor-full of snakes in Lost Ark, and he said, "Andy, the movies are for fantasy, for fun, you know?"
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MH2
climber
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Dec 16, 2013 - 11:58pm PT
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We did the standard/classic I-forget-which ridge (West?), but halfway up we heard a tink-tink and saw Bob Crawford IN A RED SHIRT placing a pin coming around the North Ridge as he and Pete Doorish made the first ascent. Would have been a good time to have a camera.
edit:
That was the FA of the North Face/ Central Rib in August 1981
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 17, 2013 - 11:31am PT
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Funny stuff Bruce & Andy!
Thanks for confirming that "the wall" in question is in fact famous Bruce.
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MH2
climber
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Dec 18, 2013 - 12:19am PT
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No Jack Lewis on Triumph mentioned by Beckey. Pete Doorish and Alex Cudkowicz doing the east face in '85. Turns out it was the Northeast Ridge we did. Good position but not much rock-climbing, which I was still learning was not the be-all end-all in getting up mountains. In fact, the most fun we had was seeing Bob and Pete, then meeting them on top, then a couple lucky guesses on the descent (or Bryan's sixth sense route finding).
Meanwhile, back at the ranch
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 18, 2013 - 12:26am PT
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?
That's not zombie roof?
?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
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Wow, i missed those last shots. Thanks Andy!
Looking forward to seeing people at Perry's tonight! He called me today, and said things should be ramping up around 7:00-7:30.
See y'all there!!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 21, 2013 - 08:59pm PT
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MH2, you know you are just being a tease about that roof crack, right?
(in edit: not that I could make two moves on it)
$BAD_WORDS
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MH2
climber
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Dec 21, 2013 - 09:12pm PT
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Not meant to tease. Just a TEST. As to location.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 21, 2013 - 09:26pm PT
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I failed the test Andy. Can I have the answer so I know for next time?
;-)
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MH2
climber
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Dec 21, 2013 - 10:25pm PT
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The test is more a routine diagnostic of the Oplopanax database. All 3 photos are within 5-10 minutes of each other.
As pic 2 shows, the bugs have not learned to fear diggers, yet.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Dec 22, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
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Excellent bonfire with Perry and Nadine last night. But, dang, I didn't take any photos. Does anyone have some they could post?
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 22, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
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Excellent turn out, good times.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2013 - 11:57am PT
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Very much so Perry. Thank you. Lots of fun conversations and libations were enjoyed.
I got off a couple shots b4 the madness took over
Sandra, Nina, Kyle and Anders
Ok this one sucks, but you can see more of the crowd.
Thanks a lot Perry for a great time, and a beautiful bonfire which kept us nice and warm.
That deer stew was awesome too!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 23, 2013 - 10:54pm PT
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i dunno about that roof but the diagonal pod crack sure looks a lot like solarium area.
maybe the roof is the one that leads out to cruising to infinity?
sorry for the slow reply. had to go to Alberta to protest the pipeline.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Dec 23, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
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Ice must have been hard, those tools got all bent up...
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Dec 23, 2013 - 11:14pm PT
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Squamish looks delicious! Bump!
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MH2
climber
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Dec 23, 2013 - 11:51pm PT
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All is well.
Yes, the Solarium.
I checked out where it said that the ledge under Above and Beyond continues to the Solarium.
The middle pic is from under Room on Fire, just around the corner from Sunblessed.
The bug is a bristletail, maybe archaeognatha.
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MH2
climber
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Dec 24, 2013 - 12:10am PT
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Despite what the photo may suggest, that crack is too easy to have a name. The only danger was that my foot slipped halfway out of the shoe once. Ah well, I could have hiked down without, but I did reflect that down-climbing to recover the shoe was something I really didn't want to do, and something I didn't take into account when leaving the brushy gully for the crack.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
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Just thought i'd wish everyone a Merry Christmas!
Hmmm must have an image or too I haven't posted yet...
Here's a couple. About a month ago I met up with Kyle and Kieran at Power Windows.
Kyle finishing up the aret of Power Windows 11b/c
Kieran wanted to traverse into it from the corner
A beautiful Remembrance day. Great friction
It looked pretty hard.
Panos are funny sometimes.. ;)
Kieran transferring into the slab
Kyle was kind enough to throw a rope on Quarryman for me and i felt really good on it.
Then I hit up Popeye and the Raven on the way down which went well till the top of the corner where I just wasn't seeing the move. It was nice to be shut down by the rock for a change rather than my body.. ;)
Kyle gave me a key piece of beta, and when i actually chose to apply it, i figured it out pretty quick. ;)
Kieran wanted to see if Teenage Girls do in fact blow gorbies. ;)
Kieran starting up Teenage Girls Don't Blow Gorbies, 11c?
Gaining the upper aret.
Merry Christmas!!
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The Call Of K2 Lou
climber
The 'burbs of Vancouver
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Dec 25, 2013 - 06:00pm PT
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Pic #3: the quintessential Squamish shot: the Chief, Howe Sound, and several power lines and trees obstructing the view. Excellent photos Mike!
Hey happy Christmas everybody!
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MH2
climber
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Dec 25, 2013 - 06:40pm PT
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The evolving photo style of Big Mike, the enduring excitement of Squamish, Merry Christmas for sure.
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 27, 2013 - 05:56pm PT
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Here's a little TR from my trip to Squamish this past August. My first time, and certainly not my last. We're already shopping for plane tickets, and talking to friends who live in Valleycliffe about crashing on their couch!
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MH2
climber
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Dec 27, 2013 - 08:49pm PT
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Great TouR, Grippa.
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Rolfr
Social climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Dec 27, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
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Sorry guys Power Windows 11B/C ? That's grade creep! Always has been 11A and will always be 11A. Great route with a healthy little runout to the arete but the crux moves are well protected and just 5.11A. I repeated it often and seconded it with Ivan just after Jimmy put it up , 11A period.
When Dale Tale put up TGWBG there was an intermediate belay that Robin B chopped years later, that belay avoided a hard ledge fall if you blew the crux. Someone should go back and replace it.
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Rolfr
Social climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Dec 27, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
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Bruce if it was in JT it just may be!
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Dec 27, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
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i remember saying something about the traversing alternate start being 11b/c Big Mike mighta gotten them mixed up
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 27, 2013 - 11:56pm PT
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Said Chief on another thread when I asked him if he's done it:
power windows- classic sb featureless wasteland
I've reused the description countless times since :-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2013 - 02:46am PT
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evolving style Ya, based on my physical abilities and lately the lack of my rebel which i somehow misplaced on the way home from Yosemite.. I'm in the market for a full frame this time, but i'm finding it quite prohibitively expensive so we'll see if i can swing it. I figure i like to shoot wide, so i might as well get the widest sensor i can get, but 1500 or so for a canon 14mm is a bit much..
Thanks guys!
Nice pix grippa! Thanks!! Glad you enjoyed Squamish!
My bad on Power Windows. I was at home in CR without a reference.. i also didn't climb it that day so i didn't remember the grade.. Sorry! ;)
When Dale Tale put up TGWBG there was an intermediate belay that Robin B chopped years later, that belay avoided a hard ledge fall if you blew the crux. Someone should go back and replace it.
What was the story on the name? Any beta on that? ;)
Robin chopped em eh? Just like the ones he chopped on his new routes at tunnel.. Ahh politics. What a shame.
Edit: Great buddy! You?
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 28, 2013 - 03:00am PT
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Yank Bump!
Howzit Mike?
Edit- nice touch, grippa.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 28, 2013 - 03:42am PT
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Oh & cool pics grippa! (Edit- and Big Mike!!!!!!!!!)
I remember u saying that u were gonna be up, glad u had fun!
I think teenage girls is gud without the belay, makes a full pitch. Multi pitching on penny lane seems best avoided. Love that climb though, super cool jugs up top! I heard Anders was actually the chopper there?
On that note rolfr,, A new to me climb I did at penny lane recently called grumpy old men had a similar feel as to fall potential/bolt placement relative to cruxes/rests as teenage girls with some wandery climbing & ledgy stances. We did it as a warm up not really knowing what it was & found it to be a cool route with fun, technical climbing & a cool crux up top, & a sandbag for a warmup. What's the story with the name on that one? Was somebody on the FA team havin a rough day??
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 28, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
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Thanks guys! Freakin luvvvvvv Squam and environs.Now that we truly ticked the classics I can't wait to visit again, and do some longer stuff along with more obscure routes.
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MH2
climber
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Thanks for the re-post. Has the feel of M. John Harrison's Climberz.
I only fell 10 feet in a swami.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Epic Bruce!
Social facilitation would make a great route name.
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MH2
climber
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Yah! That's why we find it easy to believe in the lemmings.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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On the topic of icey slopes, I recently did my annual ice climb. That is, if you can accept that top-roping some 3/4 ice really qualifies as ice climbing. As usual I ignored all previous experiences and carefully made resolutions, and ventured out to Paradice [sic] with my friend Kyle R. My main function was to act as Kyle's belayer, while he did laps--he is still young enough to actually enjoy this stuff. One lap was more than enough for me. The ice was getting punky, and the local ice season is likely over already.
As I have said many times before, "Being tired, cold and scared is not nearly as much fun as it used to be."
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2014 - 03:38pm PT
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Awesome story Bruce!! Glad you came out unscathed!
Nice pics Hamie! Thanks for that!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Great post, Hamie. And Happy New Year to you.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2014 - 08:44pm PT
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Got your hike on again eh Bruce?
I went down to the bluffs to meet Kyle and Relic and shoot a few frames with my new toy.
14mm on full frame is pretty darn wide!
Kyle hit up a few routes and Relic found out his shoulder was still a bit sore, so ended up just belaying. After a while i got Kyle to fix me a rope and i got some shots of him on Yorkshire gripper.
Kyle on Yorkshire Gripper 11b
I got a few more too but i'm gonna wait till i get home and edit them a bit. I downloaded these two from my camera to my phone.. Technology. Pretty cool sometimes..
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Good stuff Mike! Talk to U in a bit.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2014 - 04:52pm PT
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You're welcome Tami. Love to you and phil too!
Too anyone that feels left out because they didn't get a card yet, sorry! There is just so many we want to do, and being that they are hand made and scripted, they take awhile. We hope to have them all out soon!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2014 - 06:58pm PT
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It's another gorgeous day here in the Little Smoke Bluffs
Ryan warming up on Ridgerunner
Thekidcormier on belay
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2014 - 07:20pm PT
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It's kyle! Subject of many of my photos!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Un- bearded Kyle strikes again.
Cool pics Mike, fun day!
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perswig
climber
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Your photos keep getting better and better, Big Mike.
And nice TR, grippa.
Thanks!
Dale
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MH2
climber
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Great stuff, Mike. This thread is gold.
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Crimeny! I have got to come up there and party with er ah climb with you all!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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You fukkin kids. Slacklining with safety leashes. Why, back in the day, we did it the right way. And I ain't just talkin' about leashes...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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You jump on that thing BK??
Cool photos Bruce!
Sounds like quite the party up there these days. What's with the slogging laps? Are u training for a larger objective?
We had an enlightening chat with RB today as well. Told us he got booted from the upper gondy stn by "some bloke" after driving up there and hiking around.
Edit- oh jeez ghost
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2014 - 05:30pm PT
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Thanks for the compliments guys! I'm pretty stoked on my new hardware. I think it's really going to help me step it up to a new level.
Sweet pics Bruce! Looks like you had fun up there!
I managed to get some edits done last night, and I think I might have a solution to my sitting issue. The exercise ball works pretty good and promotes good posture. I'm also thinking about getting/building a standing desk.
Saturday was beautiful, decent temps with excellent friction.
Kyle hit up Health Hazard to put a rope up for some TR's
Relic looking rather warm in his vintage puffy.
(Yes, artistic liberties were taken with this photo..)
I literally just missed the light on Yorkshire. More jugging is necessary.
Kyle setting up for the first crux.
Pulling through
He finished it up strong
Twas a gorgeous view from the anchor.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2014 - 12:32am PT
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Nice work all on being the #4 most viewed thread of 2013!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Yeah Big Mike!
After taking almost a month off climbing & working way too much over the holidays it was so great to get out yesterday & today. What a way to start the year, summer is on the way! I'm stoked in more ways than one right now so I'll rant a little.
With it being Smoke bluff bolt clipping season I met up around 1230 today with Unbearded Kyle and never bearded Nina:-) at Ronins left to climb some slabs & arêtes. Wish I had more pics as it was a productive day.
It was A nice little circuit starting with the thin 10a left of astral travels on the far left of Ronin's( sorry don't know the name) which I showed up just in time to run up & drop the rope. While I walked down Kyle jumped on some Barley 10b undercling bulge to a few bolts, way left of Ridgerunner(what's the name?)I tr'ed it & it was fun enough & way better than raw onions. I moved the anchors over to the Barley 10d(anyone?) left of Ridgerunner(same anchor). This route was a rather nagging nemesis of un bearded Kyle of yesterday as well as bearded Kyle of the more distant past. Anyways unbearded Kyle got semi serious for a sec & put it to rest with some classic stinkbuggin that looked like a piece of piss with the moves so fresh in his head.
Nina took off after this & U.B. Kyle wanted more. I suggested that he step it up sack wise & commit to the exciting start of skydancing. This route was something that he had been planning to shave his beard off for for a long time, so after rubbing his unbearded chin for a quick moment he announced that he was ready for what I would say is one of the great SB 5.10s. Heady, varied & such a great line. Anyways he hiked it with little pause outside the highball start & the techy finish. Not an onsite but another new send for unbearded Kyle of 2014. He has had a great year already. I've done skydancing a few times before including a new weenie way yesterday so I skipped it & did Sammy's frog over to the right instead. A new route for me & again, surprisingly fun for 5.10c Barley slab :-)
We were having a blast & the friction was tops so after I talked us out of dreams of passion we went to look for another nemesis that only bearded Kyle had faced before. Unfortunately he had been thwarted. The climb was at P.I.N.K. cliff & was called gender neutral -another 10d slab. Kyle gave me a chance to go again & have an onsite opportunity which all worked out great. Another really nice route: starts with an easy corner that leads to some heinous blank slab for a few bolts. Then some spicy feeling facey type moves with some traversy footwork lead up to the steep head wall at the top center of the cliff, that has cool, actual holds & a fun sequence of moves on nice stone- what a gem.
A true tradmaster that unbearded Kyle is he demanded I remove the clips on the way down so he could have what I guess to him is the joy of hanging them :-)So he did just that & avenged yet another of bearded Kyle's nemesis with little drama & some smart climbing.
It was about 415 or so & we figured we could squeeze in another. It was my call so after quickly talking us out of wankulator, which was brooding off to our right. I instead picked another obscure Barley creation on the far right of split beaver, way around the corner from asleep at the wheel & not far from where we were. There's a shallow, grotty 5.4 chimney with a harder, steep bolted arête on it's left. I always thought It looked cool, but it didn't have hangers for the past 4 or so yrs . when I was out rain running with the dog I noticed some back up there recently. I went for it & It turned out to be a really cool route, fully right hand slapping the arête with a balancy, barndoor feel to it.
Anyhow, I ended up popping a foot & taking a whip with the QD in my hand that i thought I had just put on the 4th bolt lol, when Kyle caught me he was talking about something I can't remember what & anyways Im looking down while falling only to see him getting pulled on his ass across the ground for about 10' . Luckily it was a mellow fall & Kyle didn't get much more than dirty jeans so I took a rest for a bit then a hang up higher before finishing. Barley rolled up & was stoked to see us climbing his routes as well, he had actually just put the hangers back on the other day. We BS'ed with him a bit then Kyle hiked it on TR. All that was left was for me to slip and crash on my ass, blowing my takeout container filled with salad everywhere. Hilarious! Really fun day, I love winter smoke bluff season. There's just so many fun, silly, or awesome routes to do in such a neighborly park setting & they are all pretty great.
What is/was your favorite bluffs route/cliff/circuit?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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What is/was your favorite bluffs route/cliff/circuit?
The Smoke Bluff Connection was always a good one. Not that the climbing on those four pitches is necessarily better than any other random four pitches you might do, but it sort of has the feel of being a real climb. Sort of. You know, pitches one above the other so you don't have to drop back to the base of each pitch you climb before you start the next one.
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MH2
climber
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A very Canuck-style rant. Very fun to read. That's a photo I haven't seen before, and had to read the caption before it turned into something recognizable.
I always get a kick out of Centre Street, and Evaporation surprised me, too, when comparing the last time I did it with the time before that. So many many many excellent times to be had on SB routes.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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bluffs faves: old age, cold comfort, where's roxie, the gmb, monkey king?
mostly because they are or were never busy
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2014 - 12:15am PT
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Faves? Hmm.. Burgers and Fries, Mosquito, Penny Lane, Orifice Fish, Flying Circus, Twenty Minute Workout, Centre Street, Climb and Punishment, Partners in Crime, Crime of the Century.
I put a few more images together today from the other day, hope you enjoy!
From Saturday:
Kyle trying to figure out the start of Last Post
Sunday I had a few errands to run in the morning so i didn't meet up with the boys until a bit later.
When i showed up, Grant was slaying Ridgerunner and i took a few shots of the crag before i went around the corner.
It was a gorgeous day at Ronins
Ryan on Ridge Runner, hdr version
Good ol' fashioned 1's and 0's.
Ryan had been wanting to try and combine Mcm with Skydancing, he called it "Weeniedancing".
Ryan on Weeniedancing 10c
Looking up Mcm
Finishing up..
The crowd
looks like we're finally going to get some weather this week! Those of us who like to ski or board are definitely looking forward to that!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Some nice shots Mike! Weenie dancing is a good link up if ur a weenie!
Jim B u actually like red nails?!?! Masochist! I'm with u on the beaver tho, such a great crack.
BK u r right, all kinds of adventure to be had in the little smoke bluffs. What's little feet(feat)?
Hmm fav smoke bluff climbs not yet mentioned........
Skydancing
Neat & cool
The zip
Sunny days in december
Health hazard
Asleep at the wheel
Talking holds
I think all bluffs climbs lose a star in the summer & gain one in the winter. Just something about the stone there climbs so much better when it's cold.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Isn't Little Feet that 10c arete left of Digital Dexterity?
I remember doing that rig with MH2 and again 10 yrs later with Mer the next time it was clean.
It's fun, but it grows a five oclock shadow faster than an East German woman wrestler so it's best to form a line as soon as the retroscrub is finished.
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MH2
climber
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Yup. Thanks to whoever cleaned it just before we got there last time.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2014 - 01:52pm PT
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Thanks Bruce! As far as i know there wasn't any pooping.. Unless Nick left something out? ;) He did lose it pretty good when his knee got stuck tho. I was glad to be able to calm him down a bit and coax him through it, rather than having to crawl over there and pull it out for him. We were so close, yet so far. :)
Edit: Very nice Mh2. How's the pro on that rig?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I've posted this somewhere before, but since there have been several recent mentions of Digital Dexterity, here's a shot of the first ascent.
I didn't have a partner one morning, so took my hammer and a rack of pins into the bluffs and banged my way up a crack. Old wave A3. Now it's what? 12a?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2014 - 04:23pm PT
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Nice ghost. I'm sure all the digital dexterity fans are thanking you for those nice piton holds!
Jim you should have your little point and shoot on hand for trail riding!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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And I'm sure that your pitoning was much appreciated by whoever sinks their pinky tips in there.
It was surprisingly hard aid. Not really serious, but harder than I expected. As to appreciation from the pinky-tips brigade, I probably didn't help them that much with my one ascent, and I doubt it ever had another aid ascent. Who would bother? The only reason I did it was cuz I was alone and bored on a Saturday morning. It's what? 15 meters high, max?
Nice looking little problem for fingers and toes, although it was always beyond me.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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I know it had more than one ascent 'cause there's a story about Enrico Kindl and Andy Pacheco (maybe?) practicing aiding on it in in an 80s VOCJ. I think the story involves ripping a copperhead in a fall.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Digital Dexterity is actually quite a fine rainy day activity. Equalizing the first two bolts as an anchor and then fiddling with cam hooks and beaks past the rest of the bolts provides for a few cheap thrills and much inner turmoil whilst the camhooks rattle around and one is forced to wonder if their friends will ridicule them for cratering on a sport climb..
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MH2
climber
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Yes. Same thing with Little Feat. The ground is too close. Gear is there but not necessarily going to save you.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Ahh brownie, excellent.
I aided digital dexterity with cam hooks & quickdraws last winter in the rain one day with brownie. Perhaps the prime of my illustrious aid climbing career, it probably only took me an hour. I just couldn't bring myself to skip those shiny bolts as I had already considered & knew the answer to brownies fears. It is now a sandbag 12c "sport" climb if u have fings the size of a 6 year old girl.
You should have done it a few more times ghost, & swung a little harder :-)
Oh & did u name it ghost or was the name Jola Sandfords doing when she bolted/freed it??
Oh! That's little feet, yes I remember now- it has a bolt but a runout feel with not much else in the way of reassuring gear. It was a good one, to do once. There is a variation as well that climbs more direct that is also worth doing, once.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Are u talking left of frail scales Bruce?? If so there was a freeclimbing jihad put on those shorter lines a few years back. A la Moorhead I think. They may be in the newer select guide.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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You should have done it a few more times ghost, & swung a little harder :-)
Oh & did u name it ghost or was the name Jola Sandfords doing when she bolted/freed it??
No, I didn't name it. As far as I know it wasn't named til Jola climbed it.
The only things I remember about it are that it was fairly tricky, and that I didn't use any heads or beaks or hooks or camhooks. Just pins -- Leepers, angles, and blades. With lots of stacking.
I'd left my camera on the ground and when Corina and John Wittmayer got back from whatever they'd climbed, one of them shot a couple of pictures.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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The other good thing about leeper Z stacks is that they exert lots of outwards force.
Back in the days when logging road gates didn't have the big guard bell over the lock and there was easier access directly to the lock, we discovered that a Leeper Z, two angles, and a good hammering would pop the lock open on many locked gates. Almost like a skeleton key.
Ding ding ding, pop!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Funny stuff guys.
Ahhh dec 85. Great year, I was a few months into kindergarten & innsecantly begging my parents to go to expo 86 the next summer to ride the scream machine. Sadly I was too short by about an inch and a half when the day actually arrived months later. Probably scarred from that denial to this day.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mr Hatten always maintained that far too many folks resorted to heads for the simple reason they were too lazy to figure out how to craft a good pin stack, which as you know can be a pretty bomber thing of beauty esp if a leeper is employed
Leeper stacks were almost like cheating. Like the difference between old rubber and the new sticky rubber, or between hexes and spring-loaded cams. And yes, far more secure in most cases than a pasted head.
Edit:
I can hear Daryl cackling at you from the grave as I type this "harris, you're light! with pin stacks and hammer blows to the brain direct(!) that thing is A2 max"
Well, compared to Daryl, I am light. But then, compared to Daryl, who wasn't light?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sexpo! Where thousands of teenage boys & girls first got laid.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2014 - 08:27pm PT
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I also missed out on the sex part of expo! Dammit. I was 8.. Lol
We did go tho. Somehow i don't remember riding the screamer..
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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I bet you would have made the height requirement, Mike.
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MH2
climber
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Jan 11, 2014 - 11:56pm PT
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Thanks Bruce!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 12, 2014 - 12:13am PT
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Nice Bruce! Classic stuff, keep em comin eh!
Killer toque Hamish!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jan 12, 2014 - 12:25am PT
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You can call us the f team till the cows come home but I gotta say that was real mans' work.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 12, 2014 - 02:24am PT
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Good to see Big Mike enjoying his new camera. Bruce keep posting all those pics, great stories too.
Ah Expo, I was so busy at my stand that year I finally went on the very last day. Shame they never kept that outdoor amphitheater for concerts, saw Annie Lennox there.
Concerts of Expo 86: Einstürzende Neubauten, Harry Belafonte, Anne Murray, Billy Ocean, Bruce Cockburn, Miles Davis, Wynton Marsalis, Annie Lennox - Eurythmics, Julio Iglesias, Amy Grant, Loverboy, A-ha, Liberace, Mormon Tabernacle Choir, Gowan, Parachute Club, Joan Baez with Don McLean, Kenny Loggins, Lou Rawls & The 5th Dimension, Honeymoon Suite, Kim Mitchell, Johnny Cash, Depeche Mode, Joe Jackson, George Thorogood + the Delaware Destroyers, Smokey Robinson, George Benson, John Denver, The Beach Boys, Air Supply, Peter, Paul & Mary, The Manhattan Transfer, The Temptations, René Simard, k.d. lang (opening for Rockin' Ronnie Hawkins), Peter Allen, Sheena Easton, Trooper, Bryan Adams, The Romaniacs, Tangerine Dream, Youssou N'Dour, Rolf Harris, Kool & The Gang, Roy Orbison, Fats Domino with Jerry Lee Lewis, Donovan.
Real men don't use husqvarnas.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jan 12, 2014 - 04:07am PT
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For the record, it's "Little Feat" as in; Lowell and the gang or; no big deal, circa 1980 by yours truly.
The bolt was added long after I quit soloing laps up and down it as part of my Smoke Bluff routine and placed without the courtesy of a phone call.
I will get up there and remove it at some point.
Companion route to the left, "Big Foot".
Daryl was the master of stacked pins; Leepers, arrows, blades, rumps; you name it.
Anyone who had the privilege of climbing anything with Daryl would attest to his mastery of the craft. As Jim pointed out, we may have been light by comparison, but Daryl's personal trajectory had the ballistics of an anvil.
Respect, RIP.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 12, 2014 - 02:04pm PT
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Daryl was the master of stacked pins; Leepers, arrows, blades, rumps; you name it.
Anyone who had the privilege of climbing anything with Daryl would attest to his mastery of the craft.
I feel real grateful to have learned from a master. He really was that good. I was an eager student and had a few questions that he was more than happy to share. I am still light.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jan 12, 2014 - 03:38pm PT
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It was a bomber long Bugaboo and there's acceptable natural gear nearby.
It's only 10c, shorter than most highballs in the boulders and over plenty of flat ground for the pad armies.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 12, 2014 - 07:35pm PT
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The climb out to the left, between Trixie and Big Foot/Stink Foot, that got put up a few years back has 2(I think) bolts on it and it still mossed over rapidly.
Frankly that whole area from Little Feat to the Boekwyt climb on the other side of the trail is the best growing zone in the bluffs... I mean something can be buffed perfectly clean one day and be totally overgrown a week later. It's way faster than any of the other crags there. Is it the shade? The wetness? The lack of traffic? Floating spores? Runoff from a hidden grow-show?
Somebody should do a microclimate study. The hundred square meters next to the stairs there is probably the biggest carbon sink within 100 km of Squamish.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2014 - 08:49pm PT
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That spot is quite riparian indeed. There are some nice looking slabs next to the stairs as well. Probably nothing worth disturbing the local eco system over though. ;)
6670/846 days this thread has been in existance= 7.85 posts per day. I wonder if we are supertopo's most consistent thread? Climbing thread at least.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 12, 2014 - 09:07pm PT
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The bolt in question is in kind of a strange spot, I always thought. Bruce may be right tho, that thing would fade quick.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2014 - 12:07am PT
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Turtles??????!!??? Surely you cannot pique my intrest like that and then run!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2014 - 12:11pm PT
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Sounds good Bruce. I'll shoot you a pm with some titles when i get off the hill.
Thanks for the Wayne Flann mention, btw. Great snow blog from an avalanche savant. Good info too!
http://www.wayneflannavalancheblog.com/
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2014 - 12:16pm PT
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Deal.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 13, 2014 - 02:08pm PT
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Turtle Mountaineering was what turned into Extreme Mountain Gear right?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 13, 2014 - 04:46pm PT
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Do you guys know anything about the early history of Serratus equipment??
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 13, 2014 - 08:09pm PT
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I know Ross Wyborn aka (The Australian Bushwacker) started Serratus. I still have a large cordura mountain pack that is still holding out 26 years on. He loved bushwhacking and had the size to force the issue in that regard. His gear wasn't fancy but it certainly was functional and durable.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 13, 2014 - 08:21pm PT
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Thanks, Harry & Tami. Yeah, it's really too bad the stuff went offshore.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 13, 2014 - 08:26pm PT
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I knew Ross reasonably well. And yeah, it was kind of sad to see him bought out by the coop. Double-edged sword that is, for sure.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jan 13, 2014 - 08:47pm PT
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What happened to Serratus?
Same thing as the rest of the North American textile sector and manufacturing industry.
Let's be clear, lower prices trump a robust and innovative domestic manufacturing sector.
Cheaper is always better right?
A small Kitsilano mountaineer's buying cooperative has insidiously transmogrified into….
"A bastion of mediocrity flogging bland and inferior imitations of innovator's product in the name of benevolent social consumerism."
I just think I'm going to barf.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jan 13, 2014 - 09:44pm PT
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This should be good...
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MH2
climber
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Jan 14, 2014 - 12:04pm PT
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"It's rectangulated beauty is sure hard to ignore."
Big Box Store
Arrogant Worms
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2014 - 05:44pm PT
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Bruce- pm sent.
It's pretty sad that mec has basically become the wall-mart of outdoor retailers.. I do like their crag pants and shorts a lot though..
"Trevor would do it". What is it with being named Trevor and skiing this sh#t?
Damn! I've been scoping those lines for years! Man that looks fun!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2014 - 09:52pm PT
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It's horrible. Exactly what we need. An incinerator downtown!!??
It seems each proceeding government is worst than the next. How long can we continue down this path?
Right up there with the Brohm land grab for a resort which will never fly!
Even dogs don't sh!t where they eat!!
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MH2
climber
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Jan 14, 2014 - 09:53pm PT
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I always though the coolest thing to do would be ground level retail and 5 to 8 floor real estate with your balcony facing south, at water's edge, down Howe Sound for revitalizing the downtown.
Dream home away.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 14, 2014 - 10:33pm PT
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The gravel pit at McNab is gonna be a tiny little thing. Maximum 1/10th of the size of the Sechelt pit.
Not sure about the LNG thing because the pipeline to get gas there runs where? Below the Castle? That sounds really not safe.
Garbage incinerators are dumb anywhere.
Speaking of development tough, tonight's the last day to comment on the latest go around of the Garibaldi at Squamish land grab/condo pump and dump disguised as a ski development.
http://www.eao.gov.bc.ca/pcp/forms/garibaldi_at_squamish_form.html
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 14, 2014 - 10:48pm PT
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I hear sea to sky gondola corporation inc. is spearheading & organizing a huge protest against the garibaldi at Squamish development.
Thanks for the link oplopanax!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 14, 2014 - 11:41pm PT
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I knew you would have a slightly cryptic, but well timed, witty response Jim.
I have so much more to learn about trolling...........
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 15, 2014 - 01:12am PT
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Haha that's how you troll!!
On a totally different topic, anyone know anything about those crack systems to the left of cataract crags(i think that is what they are called) on the northern part of the campground wall?
There's a few different systems between a few ledges that eventually end up on turkey ledge below fight club to the right of Eurasian eyes. Anybody ever poke around in that area or know about existing routes? We were hiking around at the base yesterday thinking it would be a fun place to explore.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 15, 2014 - 01:15am PT
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Yes, Anders was working on an 'inside job', but now his cover is blown thanks to BK. Time for Plan B. This is where BK infiltrates the construction crew.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 15, 2014 - 11:47am PT
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I thought Boyd had freed the last aid sections on Mayday. I know even back in the day (80s) it had had an 112d crack in the middle freed around the time Jim Campbell was putting up runout 10s on the basalt spot face there.
That basalt spot-band is one of the coolest features on the Chief and it never gets any hype. Starts at ground level in the Bulletheads and runs up to Sports Illustrated and the Traverse of the Gods,
I think the spots on top of Centerfold are the same thing, just offset by some structural feature.
What can you tell us about our favorite xenoliths Glenn?
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MH2
climber
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Jan 15, 2014 - 12:07pm PT
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I climbed up through that region about 20 years ago, Ryan. We didn't have the guidebook with us but knew that it had a couple lines shown in the vicinity. There was a lot of vegetation and ledges sent us to the left. Towards the top there was more of a vertical line and a bolt right where I really wanted one, except about 5 inches too high. Being a highly intelligent type and concerned for my safety I discovered then and there that with the nut tool I could hook the eye of the bolt and then clip. We rapped, knowing nothing of the South Gully at the time.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 15, 2014 - 01:56pm PT
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That basalt spot-band is one of the coolest features on the Chief and it never gets any hype. Starts at ground level in the Bulletheads and runs up to Sports Illustrated and the Traverse of the Gods,
I think the spots on top of Centerfold are the same thing, just offset by some structural feature.
What can you tell us about our favorite xenoliths Glenn?
I think you are talking about that large band of dark blobs (inclusions, enclaves) that runs up and left from the Bulletheards (and it shows up in some roadcuts, as well). The general opinion is that these represent an injection of darker magma (basaltic/dioritic) into the lighter, granite/granodiorite magma that solidified to form the Chief. Granite magma has very high viscosity, perhaps similar to that of beeswax or silly putty. Basalt magma has a low viscosity, perhaos similar to ketchup. The basalt was probably injected into a fracture in the granite magma (think of water filling a crack in a flowing glacier). The magmas mingled to some extent, but were probably largely immicscible, giving rise to the blobby effect.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 15, 2014 - 01:57pm PT
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So that would have been an earlier basaltic injection than the Black Dyke, correct?
Are there any age samples from the xenoliths?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 15, 2014 - 02:05pm PT
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Thanks for the info guys.
I agree, those big blobs are some of the more interesting features on the chief. Neat stuff.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 15, 2014 - 02:31pm PT
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No, no dates from the black blobs, and probably hard to get. But much older than the Black Dyke. Years ago I got a not-very-good date of about 35 million years for the Black Dyke (going from memory here), compared with something like 94 to 98 million years for the main granite of the Chief (again, going from memory).
The 35 Ma date is about the same as dates from the basalt/andesite at Queen Elizabeth Park (Little Mountain) in Vancouver and Sentinel Hill (West Vancouver).
You may have noticed several black dyes along the highway about 5 km north of Horseshoe Bay. These are about 90 million years (not a great date, analytically), in the same ballpark as the Chief granite.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 15, 2014 - 03:13pm PT
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Thanks for the date info Glenn.
Speaking of xenoliths, here's an odd-looking one from Slesse.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 15, 2014 - 03:24pm PT
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That one does look like some sort of partly digested wall rock. Curious elliptical weathering, though....
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 15, 2014 - 07:47pm PT
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Cataract Crags?
Yer gunna die!!!!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 15, 2014 - 09:52pm PT
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What's the recommended rack Hamie, sounds like you know something??
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Jan 15, 2014 - 09:55pm PT
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... a crime in some areas, basalt and attery...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 15, 2014 - 09:59pm PT
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You want weird sh#t embedded in the rock? We've got you covered. It's not Squamish, but not that far away. And sh#t howdy, it is weird to the max.
We gave Glenn a piece of the rock, and told him about the alien pod embedded in it, but I don't remember what he concluded. I think that when I touched it the alien seed took over my mind.
(The ascender is quite close to the camera. The pod is almost a meter high)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 15, 2014 - 10:34pm PT
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Caramba crags? I think that's the jungle right of the badge with a slab underneath it that finishes up by the acrophobes.
Safe to say that any multipitch at Squamish with the word "crags" in the name will likely be adventurous.
I only ask Hamie his rack recommend for historical perspective Bruce, trying to work on my trolling remember. Cataract crags seems like a good place for trolls it would seem: dark, deep, vegetated & seldom visited it rarely sees the light of day. Prime habitat IMO.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 15, 2014 - 10:56pm PT
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Never done Cataract Crags. But I think Caramba might be worth a bit of an adventure. It's on the slabs under the Acrophobes. Probably 5.8 today. My brother, Bob, recalls it as being very pleasant.
Go for it!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 15, 2014 - 10:57pm PT
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Ghost, I vaguely remember that I thought that the main rock was some sort of volcanic breccia. The alien looks like a piece of limestone.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 16, 2014 - 12:14am PT
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I remember an article in Gripped about 10 years ago wherein someone, Colin Moorehead or Kai Hirvonen, described Caramba Crags as "a classic moderate route, great moderate climbing, never crowded".
Think that was the best troll Gripped ever prnted, moreso because at that time none of the Ontario-based editorial team had any idea how much they were getting bent over and lubed by printing those comments.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 16, 2014 - 01:18am PT
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Ryan
The best rack imo is ribs. You mentioned 'prime habitat'. Did you perhaps mean 'primal habitat'?
Hey BK.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 16, 2014 - 01:24am PT
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Hamie, you'll need to be more specific.
From the back or the side? If we are dealing with swine it's obvious but if there is a heifer involved you will need to clarify before I get short, if you know what I mean :-)
Something about old Squam routes with the word "crag" in the name that created the deepest esoterica.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 16, 2014 - 01:31am PT
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Little or no resemblance to today's 'cragging'---fortunately!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 17, 2014 - 06:49pm PT
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I also have a sneaking suspicion that "Amazon Slabs" next to Echelon (and partly climbed by the present Ultimate Everything) was named after a famous rainforest rather than a woman warrior.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 17, 2014 - 06:51pm PT
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And so I would expect a modern route called "Carmanah Crags" to be one I would stay far away from.
Unless the turf was frozen that is.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Jan 19, 2014 - 01:58am PT
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Any dirt on the bolts linking features on the face to the right of caboose?
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jan 19, 2014 - 02:07am PT
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Last Train to Hicksville
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Jan 19, 2014 - 02:17am PT
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Excellent! Any fun stories?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 19, 2014 - 03:05am PT
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Last I looked the bolts may need a replacement, quite rusty. Would you sanction such a thing Perry? Looks like a really cool line. BK boasted about toproping after chief cruised it awhile back when I asked about it but that's all the stories I've heard :-)
Edit- Brownie informs me thru offline communications that it has been recleaned & that he fell on the bolts so they must be ok.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 19, 2014 - 11:10am PT
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Invertigo has one of the weirdest moves I've ever seen. If I ever went back to it, I'd wear some kind of kevlar armor on the back of my calf.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 19, 2014 - 12:34pm PT
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Ahh good morning Bruce. My use of the adjective "boasting" was only in efforts to get u to pipe up cuz I recall you saying something about LTTH. Finally getting the hang of this trolling thing:-0
What's invertigo? I haven't heard of that one but it sounds wyde, just from the name.
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MH2
climber
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Jan 19, 2014 - 01:42pm PT
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Speaking of Amazon Slabs, there is this other slab to the right of it which appears as a white-space-on-the guidebook maps.
People have been up there. Or down there?
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Jan 19, 2014 - 03:28pm PT
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What are the bluffs looking like fellas? Thinking of heading over there tomorrow (Monday).
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2014 - 04:37pm PT
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Looking pretty nice there supafly!
Live from skulldugery
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Jan 19, 2014 - 06:41pm PT
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sweet mike! cheers for the live feed.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 19, 2014 - 09:34pm PT
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Andy that slab is a climb left of and iirc accessed from Teddy Bears Picnic.
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MH2
climber
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Jan 19, 2014 - 09:52pm PT
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Sounds right. There are anchors up in the final cleft of the Prow. Climbs in the vicinity would be best accessed by rap in as suggested for Teddy Bears Picnic. That anchor in my photo is probably arranged that way for rapping rather than sport. But no published routes that I know of despite a good-looking face. The upper part of the face may not have a good line?
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Arti
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 19, 2014 - 10:18pm PT
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All the tube topos are gone from Area 44 :'(
Also a huge thank you to the guys that built that place. The whole thing feels like a massive passion project and you can feel the love ooze from the walls. I love it :D
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 20, 2014 - 01:30pm PT
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You're right - thought that Unbearable was on that face but it's much closer to the corner.
That said, I remember exploration of that wall even back in the late 90s, surprised nothing has come to fruition yet. The cleaned features look to go all the way up?
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MH2
climber
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Jan 20, 2014 - 05:46pm PT
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There looks to me to be a good line of vertical features for the first 2/3s, then it gets steeper and looks problematic, from a distance, that is.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2014 - 10:59pm PT
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Looks pretty hard up there. I bet it'll go eventually.
Sorry i missed your visit to Squamish Oplopanax.
It's been gorgeous at the bluffs lately. Here's a couple from friday.
Kyle on the rocks.
Kyle on Hans Groper 10c
It's been a pretty mellow birthday. I was tired from yesterday, so no climbing. Sandra and i are going for Chinese now.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 21, 2014 - 01:04am PT
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Oh, it's your Bday Mike!! Well happy Bday there guy! I guess ur like me & don't say anything, cheers buddy hope it was a good one.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2014 - 05:31pm PT
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Thanks Ryan!!
It's another beautiful day in Squamish! From what i hear anyways.. Sandra's a bit hung after my birthday party last night, and i was pretty lazy too.
We're on the highway now. Hoping to get a couple pitches in b4 it gets dark.. Lol
Here's another nice pic from Hans Groper the other day. The clouds that day made for some amazing ribbon skies!!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jan 26, 2014 - 05:46pm PT
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love reading about this place!
good deal for a thread!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2014 - 05:48pm PT
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Thanks Pyro! I love your stoney thread too dude! Keep it up!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2014 - 08:54pm PT
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Ya. Fire season could be nasty. I still think we'll see some major precip in march and april. A la 2004..
Today was absolutely gorgeous! Sandra and i met up with Kyle and got a couple laps in. Twas a bit colder than Friday.
Last week Kyle and Nina and i got out and hit up the skulduggery crag.
I got Kyle to hang a rope for me, on the new 11a just to the left of Skulduggery.
Anyone know what this thing is called??
Close up
Then I tried to adjust the exposure to compensate for the white streaks, and ended up overexposing somehow... Doh!!
Then our buddy Ben showed up
To be continued....
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Jan 26, 2014 - 11:45pm PT
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One of the best days of xc skiing in years up at the WOP! Perfect kick, fast skis, and rocketship downhills. If I keep this up I may be fit enough to climb soon.
Great to see everybody getting out. One of these days the car will stop in Squish and climbing season will start.
Cheers,
Todd
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2014 - 12:42am PT
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Nice Todd! Good to hear you're out enjoying yourself too!!
Trippy Kyle
Trippy Nina
Kyle wanted to do so I threw the camera on the tripod and played with the smartphone remote feature.. Pretty cool.
Heresy 10d
Close up of Kyle, Ben and I
When Kyle finished, the Pad people showed up, and we went down to Neat and Cool for a few highballs.
Luke N on Psychopath 11c
Rich on the same
Kieran on Psychopath
Luke N on There you go Andy 12c and Kieran on Kangaroo Corner 11a
Kieran on Kangaroo
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Jan 27, 2014 - 01:10am PT
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Mike, your rebound is amazing!!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 27, 2014 - 01:31am PT
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Since i was too destroyed from all the climbing I actually knocked the dust off of my camera yesterday & tried taking some photos.
Here's a sequence of Josh on………
(Mike, Brownie, Cormier no guessing!)
I also saw what appeared to be this woman & her dog rescuing or kidnapping someone from the nearby mental ward. I figured i'd snap a pic in case the authorities needed info later.
Yes it is full on Juneary out there.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 27, 2014 - 01:42am PT
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Hey those are some good shots Mike. I like the LSD versions of Kyle n Nina & the shot of Ben n Kyle Mad doggin each other.
BTW that's Luke in the shot on the BP right of there u go Andy, not Kyle N, can't remember what its called tho……
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Jan 27, 2014 - 01:48am PT
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Diedre looks harder then I remember?
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Jan 27, 2014 - 01:58am PT
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Hey those are some good shots Mike. I like the LSD versions of Kyle n Nina & the shot of Ben n Kyle Mad doggin each other.
Try closing one eye and breathing slowly...
... it sort of comes into focus.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 27, 2014 - 02:30am PT
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Big Mike, there's something wonderful about the first 2 sets of photos above that reminds me when some of us would just head out to Murrin just to fool around and have a good time. You would have fitted in well with my crowd!
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MH2
climber
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Jan 27, 2014 - 11:41am PT
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Diedre looks harder then I remember?
Not only that, it walked over from the Apron. Sunny Days
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2014 - 05:43pm PT
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Wow Ryan! Really impressed dude. I knew there was a photog in there somewhere under the boulder weenie! :)
Thanks Todd. It seems faster from afar i am certain! :)
Considering how well we get on Glenn i'd say you're right! Fun.. It's all about fun. Can't wait to rope up with u this summer!!
Good eye Andy!
Hanging at the bluffs again...
Kyle on Popeye and the Raven 10c
Nina on Health Hazard 10a and unknown climber on Quarryman
Looks like last day of nice weather till the weekend.. Maybe we'll get some snow?? :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2014 - 11:29pm PT
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Kyle was kind enough to put up Werewolves of London, so i could hangdog and flail all over it. It was NOT pretty, but i managed to take it down. Ryan took some shots, i believe?? Maybe he will post em up.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 28, 2014 - 12:01pm PT
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Yeah Big Mike, great to see u trying hard- good efforts man! Work out those kinks on the little rocks & hone that technique now so you're ready for life's bigger stones when they are in front of you!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2014 - 03:43pm PT
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Thanks Ryan!
Not quite Tami. That thing is hard! The new bolt is quite the luxury indeed!!
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Jan 28, 2014 - 04:01pm PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 28, 2014 - 04:37pm PT
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Good to see that you folks are having a great winter season,... same as California.
I pitty all climbers east of the Rockeys.
who da guessed???
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jan 28, 2014 - 05:14pm PT
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If the resevoirs and forests dont get some....we wont be doing much this summer. Last time this happened they closed down everything....but not the Grouse gondola so I doubt Shannon Falls gondola would close.
Hey how is that Heresy route? The other lines to the right are primo, a little airy but primo
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2014 - 06:01pm PT
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Heresy looked good. I didn't get on it, but it's a bit of a boulder problem at the bottom and the difficulty eases twards the top.
We definetly need some precip. It looks like this low is going to hit mostly to the south of us... Doh! Climbing is nice, but water is life..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2014 - 06:21pm PT
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Yes Tami, it's drier for sure. We had good snow in 2010. The freezing level was really high so the north shore mountains didn't do so good. By compairison, we were riding pow all the time, with next to no one on the hills thanks to everyone thinking whis would be too expensive!!
This is a lot more like 04-05. That year we had 253cm's cumulative by the end of January. Then we had 47cm's in feburary and March and April were epic with 143cm's and 197cm's respectively. May didn't hurt either with another 45cm's for a grand total cumulative snowfall of 640cm's.
I am really hoping for something similar this year. This high pressure has to push south again eventually! They don't call us the wet coast for nutin' !!
Edit these are the numbers for 2010
Nov 266cm
Dec 363cm
Jan 195cm
Feb 259cm
Mar 315cm
Apr 143cm
May 38cm
1579cm total cumulative.
It was f*#k!ng epic!!!
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jan 28, 2014 - 07:20pm PT
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hahaha the Riviera..., maybe if I had some reasonable friends... pretty sure the email said come bunk with me and Luna in Cham for a month :)
I will be in Vienna next week getting the pad ready!
The following are the longest spells of dry weather in January at the Vancouver International Airport - YVR. Specifically, these are the records for consecutive days without measurable precipitation at YVR wiithin the month of January. Measurable precipitation is defined as 0.2mm of rain or 0.2cm of snow. Observations began in 1937 at YVR.
Rank Days Started Ended
1 17 1957 Jan 12 (Saturday) 1957 Jan-28 (Monday)
2 14 1993 Jan 5 (Tuesday) 1993 Jan-18 (Monday)
3 13 1945 Jan 18 (Thursday) 1945 Jan-30 (Tuesday)
4 12 1977 Jan 19 (Wednesday) 1977 Jan-30 (Sunday)
5 11 1991 Jan 19 (Saturday) 1991 Jan-29 (Tuesday)
5 11 1974 Jan 1 (Tuesday) 1974 Jan-11 (Friday)
6 10 1961 Jan 18 (Wednesday) 1961 Jan-27 (Friday)
7 9 1984 Jan 11 (Wednesday) 1984 Jan-19 (Thursday)
7 9 1979 Jan 1 (Monday) 1979 Jan-09 (Tuesday)
7 9 1948 Jan 11 (Sunday) 1948 Jan-19 (Monday)
8 8 1985 Jan 6 (Sunday) 1985 Jan-13 (Sunday)
8 8 1977 Jan 3 (Monday) 1977 Jan-10 (Monday)
8 8 1963 Jan 23 (Wednesday) 1963 Jan-30 (Wednesday
I think that puts this latest run of 15 days as the second all time longest dry spell for January...and look at that forecast...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 28, 2014 - 08:02pm PT
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Rained in Squam this am. Thinking about how to refund my seasons pass & buy some new slab shoes with the proceeds.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jan 28, 2014 - 08:11pm PT
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Look at all that precip....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2014 - 08:20pm PT
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Looks like we're not gonna break that consective record for jan.
Ryan, spring's gonna be epic dude. Don't give up yet..
Ice climbing weather indeed.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 28, 2014 - 10:51pm PT
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if only we don't get much snow tomorrow, next week should be epic in the pine
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2014 - 10:53pm PT
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The more north you go, the less you'll get dru. Doesn't look like we're gonna see any precip up in whistler this week... :(
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MH2
climber
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Jan 28, 2014 - 11:19pm PT
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Thanks for the photos, Mike, Ryan, and brownie.
One shot should establish this scene:
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 28, 2014 - 11:21pm PT
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Cool photo Andy- Hey I just did that one for the first time recently! Gender Neutral I think??
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 29, 2014 - 12:10am PT
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I always thought the bolt he's just about to unclip was in a weird spot. You stand up on the slab and it's at your feet and if you fall you splat on the lower slab.
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MH2
climber
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Jan 29, 2014 - 12:12am PT
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Yes, Ryan. Yes, Oplo.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jan 29, 2014 - 12:25am PT
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Isnt that guy up there supposed to be in the Rockies...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2014 - 12:53am PT
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Duh, i forgot to say, nice pics Kieran!!
Nice pic mh2. That one looks rather difficult.
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MH2
climber
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Jan 29, 2014 - 01:20am PT
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Isnt that guy up there supposed to be in the Rockies...
2 trips this winter, so far. And now a Winter (well, January) ascent of Crown.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 29, 2014 - 04:30am PT
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Nice Brownie!
No helmut?! What?!
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MH2
climber
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Jan 29, 2014 - 12:41pm PT
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Good addition/ brownie seems to know what works/ always interesting
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2014 - 01:52pm PT
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Sweet edit Kieran! Was that all self filmed?
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Jan 29, 2014 - 04:04pm PT
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Yea it's a glorified selfie Mike, spontaneous as well..
Wasn't it supposed to be raining?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2014 - 10:09pm PT
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I know right? Tomorrow will be wet it looks like, then back to cold and clear..
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Jan 29, 2014 - 10:50pm PT
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 31, 2014 - 02:01am PT
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Careful Biotch, bouldering photos tend to put this place to sleep. Edit- Oops, not being a dink
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MH2
climber
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Jan 31, 2014 - 11:21am PT
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What's the new trail like?
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MH2
climber
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Jan 31, 2014 - 11:41am PT
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You didn't mention the ropes where you pull yourself up?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2014 - 05:47pm PT
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It's a gorgeous day at the bluffs!!
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jan 31, 2014 - 07:44pm PT
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amazing, come one three weekends in a row in January...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 31, 2014 - 08:35pm PT
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Yeah I heard that stump was gone, I used to like standing on it. What a great climb that one is. Must've been beauty there today. What happened to all that precip we were yammering on about the other day??!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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How about that hydro right of way brush cut beneath Burgers and Fries?
No shade when that place heats up….next month.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Wow mike that thing's clean.
Grade?
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Whistler got a full centimeter the other day. They did avy control until noon to celebrate!
Discharged a fine beer through nose upon reading that, thanks!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2014 - 03:20am PT
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Bruce we got 2cm's!! ;) reports were there was a bit more snow up top.
Jefe it's Crime of the Century 11c. Very nice finger locks especially for those with smaller fingers.. ;) how's the weather down there?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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-12c by next weekend, dig out the tools.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I'd like to thank whoever it was who recently sent to hell the big stump out of Quagmire crack.
I'll second that. Broke a rib on that stump one day. Mantling up onto it, as usual, when my hand slipped. I dropped all of 15 cm onto it and banged my ribcage against the edge and... Yeeeoooow!
Jackie, who was a meter or so above and belaying me, just shook her head and said "Jeez David, you sure are stupid."
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2014 - 04:00pm PT
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Can't wait to go check out quagmire again!!
It's a wee bit chillier today...,
Josh on Popeye and the Raven, 10c
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Here is a back in the day pic of MH2 I came across while looking up something for Tricouni.
Famous crag at one time. Who can identify it? This route gets 5.9 in the guidebook. Kind of a sandbag from what I remember.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Yup. The best alpine crag on the North Shore.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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I love this mountain, anyone recognize it. My money's on Drew or Bruce.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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In the Chehalis, south facing rock looking west,
but not sure if Viennese or Grainger?
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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The mighty Serl on Opus ?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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A few from as of late.
A few weeks back Josh on one of the best clip ups in town.
This goofy dude we've been hanging out with
Some great photo's by the recently re-unbearded again Kyle that he emailed to me. Why didn't he just post them himself you ask? I think maybe he's scared, not sure why but that's ok Kyle. We will do your online bidding :-}
I really never know if he is going to show up with a beard or not anymore though.
Whats this one?
Whats this one?
I got a few more but someone's gotta identify some of thee above. Anyone gets em all including the breed of dog i'll give you a belay anytime, or a block of chalk.
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MH2
climber
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The last one is familiar, esp. from running backwards down it once near the top. Second-to-last is nearby. First one I don't recognize.
Trying to remember what Ginger looks like, but no real idea about the concerned-looking dog.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Just saw pics on Facebook, party climbing Shannon Falls right now.
Half open water, barf.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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... and in other news one of the gondola cars fell off the cable.
Was it Richard Kiel to blame?
Does Anders have an alibi?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Your handy work down at meares Bruce??
Drew is trolling??
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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That's awesome, thanks for the efforts Bruce. No more rapping in? That's excellent. I'll check it out soon. Would be a pretty easy Reno on those climbs too. Anybody know what kind of shape the anchors are in on loggers & strawline? Or does strawline share anchors with that easy pitch of overly hangin out off of Meares??
Re: raining gondola cabins. Hilarious.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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We never rapped in, Heelboom Bay was always the classic access route to Meare's Island.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 10, 2014 - 04:14pm PT
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Got out yesterday before the VIMFF on some obscure Squamish waterfalls.
Gertrude Falls and Ring Creek Falls are tucked away in basalt slot canyons below the ring Creek cabins. fern had been in to climb Gertrude a couple yrs ago. We had heard from a friend that there was another waterfall nearby, on Ring Creek, that was "short but steep, likely WI4 if it froze up".
Well, it was there all right, but nowhere near WI4, and much wider than it was tall. Still, that was a half an hour or so of fun. Then we climbed Gertrude on the way out. Frozen logs on the latter made for interesting topography as well as wood tooling.
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Melissa Manson
Boulder climber
Fairfield, VT
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Feb 15, 2014 - 10:10pm PT
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I love being able to read stories that have George's name. Thanks guys!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2014 - 10:24pm PT
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Looks like lots of fun drew! Thanks!!
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MH2
climber
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Feb 24, 2014 - 11:02pm PT
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^^^^^
Thanks. A good way to say things.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2014 - 02:51am PT
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Very nice Kieran! I've always said road trip shots were fair game.
I got out for a "couple" pitches this afternoon. I solo aided the left clean starts crack, then seconded it and hauled the pig with the gear that Luke lent me.
Kieran Brownie Photo
Then i practiced jugging three times before i took it down.
Tomorrow looks good too. Nice and warm
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2014 - 12:19pm PT
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Bump
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 26, 2014 - 12:27pm PT
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You're supposed to Aid stuff you cant free climb...
D'OH!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 26, 2014 - 12:58pm PT
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Hehe I just thought about how many placements u would need on clean starts mike since u can almost reach the top from the ground.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2014 - 01:07pm PT
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Really Luke?? Oh sh!t! I been doing it all wrong! Lol
Ryan it was five. Should been four but i used and extra one at the bottom for safety's sake
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 26, 2014 - 11:04pm PT
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You should practice clean-aiding King of Rock, at least that has a couple hook moves and stuff.
EDIT: maybe not if you are Big Mike size though, you can topstep and reach past just about anything right?
The Human Cheater Stick
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 27, 2014 - 12:07am PT
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Gotta be about a million pitches to practice aiding on at Squish. And yes, some of them are longer than five placements -- even for you.
I think you should wait until the weekend, and if the weather is good, set yourself up for the day on Exasperator. That should piss off about 300 people.
But seriously, there really are endless things to practice aiding on. Try Rutabaga. Or Mushroom. Or anything at Octopus' Garden.
And what is all this aid practice for, anyway? Should I be thinking about getting you a hammer for christmas? All this sh#t with cams and hooks and wires and who knows what else fancy-ass modern crap isn't aid. Real aid requires a hammer. And gigantic forearms.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 27, 2014 - 12:24am PT
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Yeah Mike, Ghost brings a good point. I mean we got your back no matter what, but it is kind of disconcerting that you just got back into fighting form & now you got the Aids. Don't fret tho, there's a cure up at cheakamus. Just have to visit there a few times & before you know it you'll be all better. I've also heard of people being healed at Skaha by going on a retreat there with nothing but a 70m rope, harness, grigri2 and 18 quickdraws :-)
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 27, 2014 - 03:06am PT
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Hey Mike, are there still areas where you can whack pins and not feel the heat? I'll show you everything I learned from Daryl about pin stacking. Not as good as the Master himself, but it got me up the Trip and Mescalito pre-cams. Actually, I think some of your local contacts from that era also have the necessary skills. Come on boys, give 'im some juice.
Snicker, snicker.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 27, 2014 - 02:52pm PT
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There are still a zillion unclimbed cracks around Squamish you can nail in, but by the time you clean all the dirt and trees out to figure what size pin goes in you may as well just free it.
Many years ago I was practice solo-aiding some dirty roadside crack off Hwy 7 near Hope and zipper groundfell from the 4th piece. Ping, ping, ping, dirt. Shoulda cleaned the crack better, all the pins were slightly undersized but seated in just enough mud so they looked and bounced like they were solid.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2014 - 03:16pm PT
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Yeah Mike, Ghost brings a good point. I mean we got your back no matter what, but it is kind of disconcerting that you just got back into fighting form & now you got the Aids.
Lol.. You know the deal Ryan but thanks for the excellent segue! Lol
I'm getting my C1/C2/hauling game in order for this nefarious plan I've hatched with the taco poet to climb the nose. I've also been advised by the kid that climbing with weirdos from the internet can be bad news, so i'm trying to meet up with him for some single pitch action long before we head to the valley. :)
Wayno! Yes as Drew says. I'm sure we can find a nice boulder or something to practice on!
I got out again yesterday and met up with Kyle. He patiently belayed me on another clean starts lap (centre crack this time). The reason i like clean starts so much right now it because it's super close to the truck, and carrying a lead line and a tagline plus gear and haulbag is still a little challenging.. Lol
Then i put all my aid crap away and we went and climbed Mosquito and Flemish as one pitch.
Kyle floated s&m
And i somehow managed it clean! I was pretty stoked.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 27, 2014 - 08:20pm PT
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 27, 2014 - 08:37pm PT
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Nice big mike.
I totally lurk on this thread. I love granite and Squamish has been on my list for like 20 years.
Question.
With a one week window for climbing, when would be the best time to visit?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 27, 2014 - 08:58pm PT
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Jefe, anytime from Mid July-mid Sept but I would say for a sure thing with a mellow scene the week after Labor Day. You can stay at my place, all you need is shoes & harness, bring the dog too if it is logistically possible. You are all set, pull the trigger whenever you're ready.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 27, 2014 - 10:37pm PT
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With a one week window for climbing, when would be the best time to visit?
First week of September. More or less.
Edit: Best to leave it until after the labor day holiday -- Squamish does get crowded.
Oh, and make sure you let us all know your dates well in advance. It'd be good to meet you.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 28, 2014 - 02:11pm PT
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RyanD what crag is that in your last pic - is it the thing down and right of Tunnel Rock or something? Looks oddly familiar but I can't quite place it.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Don't get too close to the bars of the dragon's cage. He can still reach through the gaps with his claws. (At least that's what I tell my six year-old)
K
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2014 - 06:25pm PT
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Jefe, I think Ghost is right. September is probably your best bet!
That's pretty cool that Ryan offered to put you up I would take him up on it. Him and his lady are super cool and it's a stone's throw away from the smoke bluffs!!
I'd be happy to get out with you while you're here and i still wanna take you up on your offer to come south, but it's probably gonna be next winter.
After dragging my feet a little bit on Thursday morning i managed to get down to the bluffs in time for a pitch.
Another beautiful February day
The Squaw was beaming in the sun.
Kangaroo Corner went pretty well.. other than my aider getting caught on a draw near the top...
Getting stopped by clove hitches that I foolishly forgot to attend to was interesting as well.
I found out that clean aid climbers can really benefit from a nice light alpine hammer..
Especially if they want their nice offset peanuts back!
I ended up fetching a nice size rock to knock em out and prussiked back up the rope.
Both of em came out with a little tap.
Feeling victorious I pulled my rope. Before opposite end left my reach i noticed i had left my backup knot in it and it was twisted. I undid the figure 8 and straightened out the twists.
I gave it a little red rocks yank when the end reached the anchor, and it stuck. I pulled it and whipped it but it wasn't going anywhere. I certainly didn't want to jug it, and it was getting late so leading it was definitely a last ditch option.
I went around the corner and scoped out the crack to the left of clean starts. I had seen the boys using it as a down climb from their highball exploits.
I hadn't climbed it before but it looked like it was only one move to the ledge. The scariest part was when i got to the "ledge" and realized that part of it was more like dirt and moss on slab until you get around the corner! Lol.
It was pretty easy to get over to the Kangaroo anchor after that. Somehow the rope had curled into a simple overhand. It was certainly more than adventurous for this guy who probably can't really afford that type of risk.. Lol
I was rewarded with a beautiful sunset
After I successfully retrieved my rope I called Luke and was happy to hear that they were just sitting down to his birthday dinner at the casino.
It was pretty fun. Luke did magic tricks with the eight ball.
I'm hoping the Vandleairium will have it's anchor issues solved soon.
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mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
|
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Great pictures!!
Pretty amazing to see how Squam has evolved since my Seattle friends and I used to come up there in the early 70's. Never in our wildest dreams could we have predicted that Squamish would become the year-round destination climbing area it has. Bravo to all you dedicated moss-backs!
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Mike- I love yer iPhone landscapes from the Bluffs!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mike, I love those photos!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2014 - 11:33pm PT
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Thanks Don! If it weren't for you pioneers, this place probably just wouldn't be the same. Do you have any tales from fa's that stick out which you'd care to regale us with?
Thanks Tim and Glenn. I'm pretty happy with the shots my phone takes too. I am thinking about updating to a point and shoot though, since a couple of my iphone shots were considered for publication and then didn't make the grade.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Yeah, the phone photos look great on the screen, but for print, you need something better. If your phone will save as RAW or even TIFF, you might be able to get away with it. But not JPEG.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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This is definitely the best climbing thread on the taco, I wish I could contribute, but enjoy lurking and seeing all the climbing. Thanks to everyone.
Mike, there are a couple threads on best point and shoot cameras and I think it's worth the couple hundred dollars, sorry loonies. Your pics are definitely worthy of publication.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1907097
I'll be in Whistler February 1-7 next year, hopefully the snow is good.
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BritNeil
Trad climber
Talybont on Usk, Wales, UK
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Hi, this is my first post on Supertopo, some inspiring pics and fantastic looking routes. Keep them coming!
I live in Wales, UK, and am heading over to Washington to visit my wife's family this summer for a month (July). In the past I have brought the bike over but this year I am getting back into climbing, used to do a lot, trad up to E4 (5.10d/11a I guess) but am probably only looking at 5.10 on lead now after a few years off. Did a couple of months in Yosemite back then too. I'd been keen to meet up with some climbers in the area to get out on sport, trad or perhaps even a wall if things go well, anyone up for showing a brit around? I know it's a way off but I like to plan ahead!
Thanks,
Neil
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Neil, there are a few of us old geezers here in Seattle and up in Squamish that are actually quite hospitable. Don't hesitate to send a PM, even if you are a "Brit". Cheers.
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Mike - nice afternoon shot of the rock and Sound. My wife and I visited Squamish a year ago last fall and had a great time. Great town, great rock. Your picture really made me want to go back. It's raining here in Cali and you guys are climbing in the sun. What the hell?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2014 - 08:00pm PT
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Thanks Glenn and Justin. I'm thinking about a canon s110. I really liked Mark Hudon and Cheyenne's shots last year.
Justin, i think you'd be hard pressed to find a longer running on-topic thread on any climbing forum. My editor from the alpinist piece thought that for sure it must be the largest thread of it's kind!
Neil, i'm sure that more than a few people would be happy to have a partner. I'm typically pretty busy, but shoot me an email when you come over.
Thanks chill! It's been unusually dry this season. Last week was pretty wet, but i'm out again today!
Hanging out at the bluffs again!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
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Mar 11, 2014 - 01:17pm PT
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
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Mar 11, 2014 - 02:36pm PT
|
It that "Ropeless" shot of the traverse on Clandestine Affair?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2014 - 03:15pm PT
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That would be rather brave in approach shoes! :)
Yesterday afternoon was gorgeous. Not a single party at penny lane.
Is it still winter??
Crime was a fun c1 lead.
Interesting though because it's not good gear the whole way, so you kinda have to take what's good while still trying to get as high as you can in the aider.
I had one cam blow in the last flaring pocket which caused me to sit back on my grigri. That was pretty exciting... lol
15 pieces.. lol
Brownie and Ryan showed up, so I hung out with them for a bit, and then they took off to go tackle a pebble.
When i was cleaning it, Kyle and crew showed up, and we had a little toprope session which ended in me dogging up it.. I could do the moves, but after 5 or 6, I was just pooped. Very good training..
As the sun was setting i caught the moon over the squaw
Last light on the north walls and the Prow
Well.. Time to go climb again. :)
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 11, 2014 - 04:58pm PT
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Weird lighting effects, almost makes it look like fall colours on the ridge leading to Habrich. Nice photo (pity about those wires...)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 11, 2014 - 05:05pm PT
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You are close ghost but about 50' too high & 300' too west.
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Mar 11, 2014 - 07:23pm PT
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srsly.. we need a climber funded kickstarter to bury those gosh darn unsightly electrical cables in the bluffs.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2014 - 10:54pm PT
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While we're at it Could we possibly shield them better so we don't have to get cancer to hang out at penny lane or neat and cool?
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Mar 12, 2014 - 11:41am PT
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Burying them 10 foot under should take care of that BigMike. Maybe have to speak to the SAS guys to see what they think, obviously it's more of a BC Hydro thing but, given that our Little Smoke Bluffs is a National Park, I would have thought it would be a possibility.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
|
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Mar 13, 2014 - 03:50pm PT
|
Switch'em over to Tesla Broadcast Power and use the depowered lines to make Squamish the slacklining capital of the world.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 13, 2014 - 11:18pm PT
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Quiz time.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 13, 2014 - 11:36pm PT
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Nice pretty quickdraws. Is that a bolted crack?!?!
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 13, 2014 - 11:39pm PT
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I'm stumped, yet intrigued...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 13, 2014 - 11:42pm PT
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Nice pretty quickdraws. Is that a bolted crack?!?!
Oh, for god's sake, what color quickdraws would you use with an aquamarine rope? Blue? White? Get real. Lavender is simply the only color that works.
And no, that is not a bolted crack. There is a single bolt on that pitch, about midway, but it ain't no sport climb.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mar 13, 2014 - 11:51pm PT
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Ghost, I approve. Summery, light, FAB!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 13, 2014 - 11:54pm PT
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Lololololol
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 14, 2014 - 12:34am PT
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Ok it's not in the bluffs, not at the malamute, probably not Murrin by the look of the stone. The tree in the background is pretty big so I'm going to say something in the valley of shaddai.
Even in the ballpark or what??
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MH2
climber
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Mar 14, 2014 - 12:59am PT
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spruce?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 14, 2014 - 01:33am PT
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spruce?
Spruce? I don't know nuthin about trees. But Ryan is definitely in the ballpark. Valley of Shaddai for sure. Start of the third pitch of the Avalon Connection.
Great climb in an incredible place.
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MH2
climber
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Mar 14, 2014 - 01:36am PT
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Thanks! My headache went away. I have done that route, but did not recognize it.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 14, 2014 - 01:40am PT
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Nice Ghost, that looks quality!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 14, 2014 - 11:31am PT
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do you ape across that traverse, or sneak down the rampy feature to the spot where the photographer is standing?
edit: nevermind. looked in the book.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 14, 2014 - 12:31pm PT
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do you ape across that traverse, or sneak down the rampy feature
The crack is actually the upper edge of a flake and you can get your whole arm into it and hang off a sort of easy chicken wing. And the rampy feature is not a feature -- just looks like one in the photo. So, yeah, you ape across that part.
But the real business is at the end of the traverse where you have to switch up and into another upward traversing crack.
First time we climbed it we knew nothing about it. Just a description in the guidebook that made it sound like a fun and easy 3-pitch outing to end the day in the Valley of Shaddai (i.e. it ends at the rim so you don't have to do the death gulley climb to get out). I think it was written up as something like 5.9, 10a, 10a.
What a joke.
But it truly is a great climb. Okay, it's not High Plains Drifter, but it offers excellent and varied climbing in an amazing spot. When you're in the Valley of Shaddai, it's almost as if you'd stepped through a wormhole into some other place than Squamish.
So if you haven't climbed it, put it on your list, cuz it's definitely worth the entry fee. Just don't expect easy.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 14, 2014 - 12:47pm PT
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list of climbs to do edit- rescrub
-Avalon connection. Valley of Shaddai
?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 14, 2014 - 01:47pm PT
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From what I recall it needs a three pitch rescrub to be climbable at this point.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 17, 2014 - 06:14pm PT
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Happy st party's day everyone!
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Mar 17, 2014 - 08:44pm PT
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Happy St Patty's you northern monkeys.
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DBlack
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Mar 18, 2014 - 08:23pm PT
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Hey, it is awesome to see all of you still climbing through the winter in Squamish! I am so jealous, sitting at home in drizzly Vancouver. Happy late St Patrick's Day, btw! Too bad the awesome weather didn't last...
Anyway, I am heading up to Whistler next week and am interested in getting in some rock climbing. Is there some kind of beta somewhere that I can get my hands on for Spanky's Wall or any other alpine areas and/or routes? If any of you knows about the area or has tips, please share!
Thanks! You guys are an inspiration!
David
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Mar 20, 2014 - 11:51pm PT
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Great TR dude! ^^^ Thanks.
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DBlack
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Mar 22, 2014 - 12:36am PT
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Thanks a lot Bruce. I will not bother you with the book, but thanks for the offer! Sounds like fun, I look forward to next week! I'll also skip on the Guinness as I am only 16, Haha! Thank you!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 22, 2014 - 01:37am PT
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It's generally a good idea to skip the Guinness, regardless of age!! :) :) H.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 22, 2014 - 02:26am PT
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Go for the Guinness if you are old enough, but stay away from the dreadful bottled stuff that pretends to be Guinness.
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DBlack
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Mar 22, 2014 - 02:13pm PT
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I'm in a similar program at a different school. I will remember that, Hamie and Tricouni!
And for the sake of the forum, I got on the only thing that was dry yesterday in Vancouver, which, unfortunately, is only toprope-able. It is still quite beautiful...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 22, 2014 - 02:39pm PT
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Young blood,
Spankys beta is in Whistler rockclimbs by Kevin M. I wouldn't bring anything besides 12 quickdraws, a gold camalot for the start of sunshine breakfast & a grey camalot for the start of did it with my girlfriend. The gear route(s) have never looked that appealing there to me. Finestone cowboy as Bruce mentions is a great route, there's nothing else like it in the corridor. Bring some endurance & maybe a yellow alien & a green camalot for the start. Even better bring a drill & tune it up :-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2014 - 06:47pm PT
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Hey guys!
Ghost- Nice pic and tale of Avalon. That climb has always intrigued me, along with Just Blessed and a few others down in the valley.
Good to see the boys out enjoying themselves on St Paddy's.
Nice to hear from you Justin, I'm headed to Cali in early May, we should hook up!!
David- Always nice to have a new voice here! 16? I wish i was that young when i started climbing!!
Whistler next week eh? Cool. I live up here, and it's pretty sweet up the mountains when conditions are right.
Next week looks pretty snowy, but temps will be ok, probably -1 to -5? Avy conditions will depend on new snow depths but Persistent Weak Layers from early season still lie dormant and can become a real threat with significant loading or warming.
Spanky's wall
Spanky's is pretty much cragging in the sky. Best enjoyed in early winter inversion conditions when T-shirt temperatures are easily accomplished, or late spring before they close Blackcomb. The best way to get there is take the high traverse towards ruby bowl after you climb Spanky's ladder and then either rappel in, (leave your gear up top for the epic sunset shot!) or scramble down the notch just to the left of the cliff.
Looking up the wall at the notch
Kyle on the far left route, Blister in the Sun 5.9
I also disagree with Ryan that the gear route isn't worth climbing. Kyle found it quite engaging.
Then there is the aret, You'll Go Blind 5.9
The next route is a 10c called Did It With My Girlfriend, i don't have a pic of anyone on it, but the rope is on it in my notch pic above.
Me on the far right climb Early Morning Job 5.9
Kyle Koroll Photo
Me getting my gear off the cliff.
Kyle Koroll Photo
Tami you should get off your butt and come climb with us one of these days!!
Nice pics Ryan!! Jealous!!
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DBlack
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Mar 22, 2014 - 08:11pm PT
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Sweet, thanks so much, Mike! That is very useful. Awesome pics too, I'm stoked!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 22, 2014 - 08:15pm PT
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Thx Mike, Henkel took that pic up at spanky's about 3 years ago during a January inversion. St pattys day was interesting to say the least. 2 dogs in the pic actually Tami, & a bottle too if u look close- but it ain't islay. Just some good ole Catholic Jameson's!
Blistered in the sun! That's what it's called! Such a beautiful climb, what's Sunshine breakfast??
I also disagree with Ryan that the gear route isn't worth climbing. Kyle found it quite engaging.
I should have phrased that better, how's this.
"It has never appealed to me to carry a rack up to the sport crag on top of the ski hill for the one ok crack surrounded by beautifully featured faces & arêtes only to ride all the way down with it on my back at the end of the day :-)"
Same goes for skaha lol!
But remember, unlike you & Kyle I am not, repeat: NOT a trad climber, & I don't want to be either :-) (has anyone ever admitted to that on supertopo before?)
Anyways, here's the OP himself crushing the smoke bluff connection last week, or was it the week before??
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 22, 2014 - 08:24pm PT
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Oh & one more then I really gotta get some work done.
Everyone should send out some good vibes to thekidcormier, I think he went under the knife yesterday or today to get his landing gear replaced. Come back strong Luke!!
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MH2
climber
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Mar 22, 2014 - 08:36pm PT
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Power to the kid.
Thanks for the tour, Mike.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2014 - 09:18pm PT
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You're welcome David. Have fun, and be safe! Oh ya, the crack is a 10A and it's called Ski Bum Come
Ryan you SPORT WEENIE!!!!!!!! LOL I will drag you up Slow Pitch one day and you will LOVE IT!! :) this sport weenie has the fattest trad rack I've ever seen someone of that persuasion covet.
Thanks for outing those pics. I know i took my time. It was next on the list. lol oh well..I'm gonna post em again anyways! but in context.
So as Ryan alluded to, him and I accomplished a "Winter" ascent (because it was last week! lol) of "The Smoke Bluff Connection 10a
He of course cruised it unlike any true sport weenie I've ever met. I found mosquito/Phlegmish easier this time.
me on Phlegmish
The diligent manager, taking business calls mid climb.
Jabborwocky 10b? (according to new guide)
It was a gorgeous day.
I managed a clean ascent after a couple falls off the wet, muddy opening footholds.
Ryan monkeying around on Wonderland 5.9
I was doing pretty good on the traverse till i got to the crux and fumbled around with the moves to get across to the slab. I spent way too much time puzzling it out and eventually i just couldn't hang on anymore.
Luckily Ryan had run it out from this point and the rope was directly above me so i didn't swing into the ledge.
I hung there for a bit getting my gas back and Ryan yelled down "Are you ok dude??" "I'm fine" I said, "I just bailed and i'm trying to get back on again!".
Luckily there is a little flake below the crux to haul yourself up on.
Ryan at the top.
After retrieving our shoes, we headed back to his place to have a beer and rotate my tires.
Ryan's neighbors fence is awesome, and his driveway has the sickest view.
Andy- You're welcome. Let's get out soon!!
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MH2
climber
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Mar 22, 2014 - 09:49pm PT
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Great addition. High value on low climbs, Mike and Ryan. I will try to be ready when the time comes.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2014 - 09:59pm PT
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Good to hear Andy! Hope you are well!
I always thought it was 10a. Just a tough start. Easier if you're tall. Lol
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Mar 22, 2014 - 11:31pm PT
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Early may=shit yeah. You guys are welcome at my house and would love to show you some shuteye. You got my email so let me know Mike.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2014 - 02:14pm PT
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Sweet Justin! I'll shoot ya one later
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2014 - 05:52pm PT
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Sure looks different without all the trees around here!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 23, 2014 - 05:54pm PT
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Ryan you SPORT WEENIE!!!!!!!! LOL
Nope, sorry Mike. I don't wanna be a sport climber either. Just a Squamish climber who likes to climb on all the rocks Squamish has to offer when the conditions are best. Too much fun stuff to do around here to get pigeon holed. Climb everything :-)
Hey I don't think I ever saw that photo of you on early morning job before, that's a great shot. Nice wonderland pics too, my first time ever climbing with socks lol! Thanks for reposting those in context too!
And Jabberwocky @ 10b?! That particular 1978 guidebook author must've liked fluffing egos eh? I've always thought that besides the move off the ground that 5.9 was a fair grade for that one.
Here's a few more that are reposts from the bouldering thread but might as well throw them in the stew here as well.
Hey, on another note- and I may have asked this here before but- Has anyone ever climbed to the top of Anvil island?? Was headed south today & I'm always captivated by it. What's the story there, I heard it's owned by N Van outdoor school or something? Is there public access or anything?
Some nice looking(from the highway) cliffs there as well.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
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Ryan, i hope you caught the sarcasm there.. Lol
10b for small people right Tami? ;)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 24, 2014 - 12:48am PT
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Of course Mike, u get out there today??
Thanks for the info Tami, Ha! Love hearing tales of these anonymous adventurers :-)
Thanks for the link too!
Oh & my guidebook/grading comment was more a weak attempt to troll the particular author out of the shadows than anything. Maybe claiming that seasoned in the sun is a soft 5.9 that the last 10' aren't worth climbing would have been a better tactic.....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2014 - 01:51am PT
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You mean Ander's Bum? :) it would be nice to hear from MH.
Yeah, Kyle and i got out.
It was busy!! We went down to the Lybia Sucks area so i could lead my first free pitch in over a year!!
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Mar 24, 2014 - 09:38am PT
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Yeeeeaaaaahhhhhoooooo Mikey!!!!!
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MH2
climber
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Mar 24, 2014 - 11:04am PT
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OoooooooohYeah!
Maybe I see a Peder Ourom clean-up in that pic.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 24, 2014 - 11:26am PT
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Hey, you see the crack/seam over near the left edge of that pic?
That's the long-lost/long-ignored Rugosite, 10d. Only appears in the Campbell guide iirc.
As fer Anvil Island I hiked up there with a big crew 10 years ago or so. Fun winter day. The rock on the summit's not granite - it's part of the Gambier Formation. I remember seeing some steep, pocketed walls that screamed out for bolted treatment except for the approach.
There are some great sea cliffs on Anvil that you can kayak or canoe to and climb. Mostly Kloochmanesque traversing rather than straight up DWS. Mix of granite and Gambier Fmn.
View west from the summit
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2014 - 12:42pm PT
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Wooo hooo!! Great eyes Dru. I'm pretty sure i know someone that will be interested in that 10d.
Here's a couple more pics from yesterday.
Kyle downsoloing the new Sinclair/Ourum scrub job.
He soloed all my leads! Lol
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2014 - 12:59pm PT
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Kyle wanted to try Sweet and Sour 10c which is much nicer now, sans tree at the start. He pulled off the crux somehow, even though i thought he was going to fall at any moment. He didn't find the bolt after the upper corner though??
I toproped it and had some trouble at the crux. I ended up having to invent my own beta after getting extremly frustrated trying kyle's.
Then Kyle floated Short and Sweet, and i found the hardest part was unclipping the
anchor and soloing the 5 feet to the top of burgers. (Don't fall Mike!!) ;)
I might go back and stick some hangers with rap rings to save someone else that experience.
Kyle needed a challenge, so he hit up Assholes of November 11b
He didn't get any farther then the first bolt however and ended up lowering off my nut tool. A trick i will probably never try after hearing the flexing sound it made when someone 100 pounds lighter than me weigthed it. ;)
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 24, 2014 - 05:08pm PT
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My bad, Rugosite is in the most recent McLane guide, albeit so vaguely described that you'd have no idea where it is.
There's a nearby climb in the Campbell guide - Take it to the Ligaments - on a lower tier, below Rugosite and towards High Cliff from Alexis - which I don't think anyone has found or climbed since the 80s. Maybe it'll get dug out and rediscovered one of these days.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2014 - 06:37pm PT
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I had to get my passport renewed and Sandra wanted to grab a few things so we're shopping today. I would really like to have time to visit everyone down here too, but it just doesn't work like that.
It's more like this: Run around and do everything you've been putting off for the last couple months, barely make it to the last store on time, then hit up superstore on the way home. It's tedious, but that's the price of living in whistler i guess.
Anyways point is i just happened to notice this travesty. It's been previously discussed on this thread.
Such a shame...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 25, 2014 - 01:49am PT
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What's up Mike? Golf is legit dude!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 25, 2014 - 01:52am PT
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Oplopanax, thanks for the info. Is there any access issues? I hear it's owned by A bible camp or something? Cool pic from the summit though, that's a nice view.
Oh, & great job getting out on the sharp end Mike! Really awesome to hear that.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2014 - 03:05am PT
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Thanks Ryan! Man it just kills me to see that beautiful wall covered in golf bags.
In other news, don't bother going to mec to buy climbing shoes if you have size 13 feet. They didn't even have 1 pair in my size. Thoroughly disgusted is how i feel about that..
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 25, 2014 - 01:32pm PT
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Access to Anvil Island works like this: there is a public dock at the south end of the island, but the land beyond is private. Most landowners do not allow access but the Bible camp caretaker will let you through for $25 per head (2004 rate, may have changed). A good,marked trail canbe followed from there to the summit. If you are renting a water taxi to get your crew of hikers to Anvil, this is your only viable option.
There's also free access, but no dock, on the east side, if you have your own boat. Land your canoe or kayak on the bouldery beach right where the creek on the east side flows into the ocean. Very steep flagged route runs up the north (climbers right) side of this creek to south of the summit and joins in with the trail from bible camp here.
Final route to the summit (pic) wraps around the west side (left in pic) and scrambles up easy steps on the north ridge.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 25, 2014 - 02:45pm PT
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That's cool, thanks for the beta.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 26, 2014 - 01:31am PT
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I was in the local used book store today, checking out the climbing section, and spotted a couple of books which may interest someone down there. I already have my own copies of both.
Anders' guidebook. $40-. In immaculate condition. Looks like it was never even read. Definitely never used in the field.
Smaill's guidebook. $25-. In very good shape. This book is unusual, and may appeal to some collector types, as inside the cover it is inscribed:
Eric Bjornstad
Paquette, Wis.
Note that this is an inscription, not a signature. As our more mature readers will recall, Eric made a number of FAs at Squish with Uncle Fred, way BITD--before becoming the Great Guru of the Desert.
If anyone is interested in purchasing either or both of these items, send me a PM or post on the site. We could likely work out a way for me to buy them and mail them to you. The Smaill book is a good deal, if you are into that sort of stuff. They should go to Squish afficianados.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 26, 2014 - 02:16am PT
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Hamie!!! I'll take them both, sending u a pm right now.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 26, 2014 - 02:18am PT
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Sold to the man in the corner, smoking two cigars!
You snooze, you lose.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2014 - 03:40am PT
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Sweet pic of Kyle on Bpeel Ryan! So jelly!! Damn i can't wait to get back up there!!
Nice to hear from you Hamie! I can't wait to check out that Smail guide!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 26, 2014 - 02:22pm PT
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That pic makes Banana Peel look badass, which I thought was impossible.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 26, 2014 - 02:30pm PT
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Here's a pic of Eric B doing the Starfish Traverse, while belayed by Uncle Fred. It looks a lot like Big Jim, but it's not. Big Jim had bigger pipes! Note the classic hammer in back pocket of jeans stylin'.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 26, 2014 - 04:24pm PT
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That pic makes Banana Peel look badass, which I thought was impossible.
Yeah, why isn't he walking across that sidewalk? Hanging by your hands off the curb is just weird.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 26, 2014 - 05:44pm PT
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Banana peel was the first climb I ever did back in 1982. I also aided the first pitch of exasperator as it looked impossible to climb at the time.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2014 - 11:10pm PT
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Rad pic Hamie!! Thanks for that!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2014 - 03:12am PT
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Lol. I wonder if the film was still good
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Mar 27, 2014 - 03:50am PT
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WWWHHHOOOHHHHOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
After over a decade I got my original copy of "Tales of Terror..." in the mail today!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2014 - 10:22pm PT
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Nice Evel! I love that book. Tami's art rulez!!
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Mar 29, 2014 - 11:30pm PT
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Hi Tami! I thought the book was lost. Then an old roomie called up and said he had it and would return it to me! WOOT!
USPS IS bad, but not THAT bad!
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tooth
Trad climber
B.C.
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Mar 30, 2014 - 10:34am PT
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Time to put some more pictures/vids/stories up! Is it raining there right now though? I'm thinking about moving from the Okanagan because I miss granite, does Squamish need a dentist?
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Mar 30, 2014 - 01:48pm PT
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does Squamish need a dentist?
Isn't that like asking, "does West Virginia need a dentist?"
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Sanskara
climber
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Mar 30, 2014 - 02:21pm PT
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WTF
$429000 for a condo!
Sorry I want my own house without a neighbor in sight for that kinda money in a mountain paradise like Squamish.
Condo is fine for city living I suppose but not part of my mountain town dream..
Nice condo though!
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Sanskara
climber
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Mar 30, 2014 - 03:11pm PT
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F*#k!
No way I am going anywhere near Vancouver with the bed bug epidemic so thats off the table regardless. Who am I kidding I an American so it's all off the table north of the border as much as I may dream!
Looking at the Bishop thread also blows my mind how expensive property is all the places I might fantasize about living. I am thinking Ouray or Durango might be my best bet. Patagonia but that ain't gonna happen either. Sigh.......
My 2-3 bedroom 1 bath 1100-1600 square ft house depending on how you slice it updated very nicely and very well cared for 20 minutes west of Boston in a well desired town to boot is only worth $425000 on a good day. The potential for employment world class health care so forth and so on is comparable to few places one could choose to live. The only thing missing is the mountains.
I guess it just blows my mind how expensive everything has become regardless of where you go.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2014 - 03:17pm PT
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The only thing missing is the mountains.
Yup. Lots of those around here. Lots of small towns in bc that are way more affordable, but they just don't offer world class recreational opportunities like the sea to sky does.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 30, 2014 - 03:36pm PT
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Squamish can always use more people who know how to drill....
As for dentists and West Virgina, is that the state where "anywhere else they'd call it a TEETHbrush"?
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tooth
Trad climber
B.C.
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Mar 31, 2014 - 08:40pm PT
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Yeah, the only thing I don't like about it is the high prices and no acreages. Right now I can shoot on my land, or next door on crown land and see no neighbors. Moving to a city.....hmmmm...
Nice joke opalanx. They teach that day one in dental school.
Nice townhouse Bruce, are you leaving?
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tooth
Trad climber
B.C.
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Mar 31, 2014 - 11:35pm PT
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Squamish can always use more people who know how to drill....
Why is that? Not enough sport climbs for you?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Here's some mighty fine thinking. Tooth take note.
The guy in white was just askin' for it......... Lucky that I saw the sign in time!
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tooth
Trad climber
B.C.
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Last week our neighbor's dog got cut up from a cougar. He shot in the air, cougar ran. Bears around a lot, I've seen Moose, Elk, Coyotes, 1000's of deer, racoons, etc. in the past few months here. I have rubber bullets and flashbang rounds in the shotgun because we don't live in the city and we see more animals on our property than people. Better to be safe than sorry. Not every animal is nutz, last time we were on the island, we spent a night with a pack of these friendly guys (my wife is behind the wolf, camera is a 14mm lens 2' from the wolf, it got nose marks on the lens later)...
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Tooth
Don't be misled by the fact that there is a lot of support for the NRA up here.
In Canada it stands for "No Rifles Allowed." :) :)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Good morning friends, causal bystanders and cross dressin, orgy havin weirdos.
Another beautiful morning down around the Howe sound.
Bruce how bad is the sewage treatment plant stench at the elements?
I'm so glad we didn't go the town house route, we are extremely pleased in our little slice of paradise here in Britannia Beach.
Aislinn and I had looked at quite a few town houses when we were first looking to buy. We actually had agreed to buy in Mountain Mews for 305 but thankfully there was another offer on the table pending sale that miraculously went through.
Here is a lurker Kyle photo I nabbed from squamishclimbing.com
Edit: wow that video was inspiring...
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Yo Bruce, is that your cut-block in the vid?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Well that's good that the stench doesn't linger your way.
Gun shots? Yes, the property at the top of the hill seems to fire guns quite
regularly.
Hey look its kyle on Perry's lieback!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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avast is giving me a malware warning when I try to visit Squamishclimbing.com...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2014 - 01:15pm PT
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Weird Dru.
I woke up this morning to find out that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.
Gripped stole my photo!
No Credit..
We'll see if they're gonna pay for it....
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Sanskara
climber
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What is that climb above.
Gotta do it.
Had a tentative trip planned for late summer early fall but I don't think that is gonna happen now.
I'll get there sooner than later though and when I do I gotta do that climb.
More info please or just a link...
Figured it out sorry.
The Grand Wall?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2014 - 10:08pm PT
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It's in the bottom left of the image you can't see Tami.
Sanskara, it's called mercy street, 10b. If you wanna climb it, come after a good hot spell or it will be wet.
So gripped pulled my image.
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Sanskara
climber
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Mike,
10b that's it! Stoked its on then!
I will be trying to get in touch with you for a conditions report. Maybe for a partner also as so few can just drop everything to go do some climb the way I can. Kinda kidding but not about the conditions report part.
I had a trip planned late summer or this fall but my partners summer long road trip turned into two short out and back via airplane trips.
I know there is tons of great climbing in Squamish. Is there one Sunshine Crack or something looks quite a bit like that one but maybe harder?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2014 - 11:39pm PT
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Here is my original image.
Some stoke for Sanskara
Mercy Street
Dude! I'm down. I want to hit this sucker again too, but not sure if i'll be up to leading it again summer. Maybe.
I think you're thinking about daylight crack on freeway?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2014 - 03:41pm PT
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Ok. First of all I must apologize. Tooth asked for Photos and Stories not drama and butthurt. lol
So, to atone, I went climbing this week and managed to get 19 pitches in over 3 days, which is pretty good for me lately.. lol
On Monday I showed up late and joined the party already in progress at of all locations, High Cliff.
Kyle was bored of waiting for Lord of the Drink so he soloed Step n' Stump 5.7
When he finally did get on it, he didn't do so well. I jumped on the gift and it felt super good to lead it again.
After we went around the corner and Jay and Richie showed up to have a go at Red Nails.
The scene at High Cliff
Jay trying to figure out the opening sequence on Red Nails 11c
Kyle had a score to settle with Fred Snails so he roped up for it. The top could use a bit of a scrub. lol
Kyle starting up Fred Snails 11a
Jay did pretty good after the crux on Red Nails
I flailed up the crux of Fred Snails, and then we did Miner Matters 10b and Run Like A Thief 10a neither of which i managed clean.
On the way back to the truck I could hardly resist capturing this sight.
We headed up to the top of Neat and Cool for some after hours bouldering with Ryan before heading home.
The insatiable Kyle on a dusk ascent of the Neat and Cool boulders
Howe sound at it's finest
Tuesday I had no partner. So i decided to make lemonade out of the lemons and went to burgers to practice my lower-outs. I toproped Peaches and Cream which still eludes me and then burgers in my approach shoes a couple times because it was the only climb free. I did a few lowerout jug practices on it after.
Dusty eyes finally freed up, and i solo aided it with my trusty partner grigri. Everything was mellow on it until the very end where i forgot to clip my rope to the last piece of pro and i was looking at an interesting fall with just enough slack before the clove hitch to make the move and disengage the cam to gain leeway to make the mantle in my camp four's.. lol
following was a breeze in comparison.
After I saw Bearbreeder in the parking lot and we arranged to hook up for some of this on Wednesday:
Eric Chan Photo
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Sanskara
climber
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Thanks for the stoke Mike,
Yeah sunshine crack is in the Bugs I think right?
Should probably go do that too!
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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There you go Sanskara! The Sword/split piller is as good as a die-he-dral gets!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2014 - 04:58pm PT
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Yes they are.
Luke on the Split Pillar
Luke on the sword
Which btw, it is very nice to hear the kid's voice again here. Keep posting up Kyle's pics bro! Too bad he chooses not to participate here. comeon kyle i know you're reading this! lol
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Sanskara
climber
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That's the climb.
Is it legit 11a sustained? Give me the local beta.
Thanks for the pics.
If i get my sh#t together I could get that 10b climb done this season even after the fractured calcaneus. Might have to wait till next season for the grand wall, who knows though I did f*#k this hoof up on my first day out of the season on a mid 11...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2014 - 05:16pm PT
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It's cruxy. super pumpy towards the top. The grand is meat and potatoes climbing, just a lot of it for a long time.
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Sanskara
climber
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How long does it take on average for a competent 5.11 leader to get up it...
Is it outa question for someone that is a competent 5.10 leader throughout the letter grades and can lead 5.11 gear but its work?
I'm good at strong guy climbing not so much über technical slabby sh#t. In shape I can climb up into the 10D range on New England slab with maybe one or two falls? I can get 10b-c slab normally on sight. Juggy muscle climbs of the same grade I can normally on sight
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2014 - 05:56pm PT
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Sounds like it's right up your alley. Me (10d leader max) and another 5.11- climber did it last spring in 4.5-5 hours around? that's if you get off at bellygood ledge.
I was gassed by the last pitch, the sail flake, and fell off after i removed the last piece. Ended up dangling there so i prussiked up the rope to the next piece. lol
Lots of sustained crack climbing. you'll love it.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2014 - 05:57pm PT
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7000!!! wooohoo!
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Sanskara
climber
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You snagged it, nice!
Me and you are probably similar then as far as climbing ability.
I stated what I can do on gear above but in all honest 10D at the Gunks can kick my ass on the sharp end. In Nh for some reason I can do that but its work and full commitment.
Sport I can on sight 11A normally and then work 12's although I really only get a handful of 12's under my belt a season and they are normally gym and sport routes. Actually they are always gym and sport routes...
Whatever I am climbing that flake!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2014 - 06:37pm PT
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LoL ya we would have been on par. I suffered a major setback last year tho so right now i'm lucky to climb 10b.. lol i'm working on it though. by the time your heel is good i'll be ready.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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When I did it we got stuck behind a slow party. I led the Split Pillar straight in, sussing each piece, like a man... my partner had done it 10 or so times and claims he liebacks the whole thing, blindly stuffing 3-4 blue cameltwats in for pro... "it is 5.11, no way I'm going to fall." I was wedging all kinds of body parts by the time I got to the top and resisted liebacking on moral grounds.
He aided through some bolts at the top of the pillar, assuring me it sucked to climb, then gave me Perry's. We finished on the Black Dike (a bit heady).
Pretty sure we didn't start before 10 and we were down in time for a snack, a couple beers, and an evening of bouldering.
Squshami is awesome! I mean... it really sucks and nobody should ever go there.
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Sanskara
climber
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Yeah I have Leto track of your I injury. Being this is my favorite ST thread it was kinda hard to miss.
I just made a profile when I got hurt but I have lurked for at least a couple years?
Had a trip planned out that way late summer, I think I said that already but that has since changed.
I gotta get myself out there and soon thought. I did the whole Rockies ice trip last winter and fell in love. I have a feeling I will feel the same way about Squamish. You all would ne have me, I gotta even get my papers straight to make sure they don't try and turn me around at the border again.
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Sanskara
climber
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Me thanks for the info, I am sure later tonight I will read that like 20 times and store the info away..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2014 - 12:40am PT
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lol Wes. Nice story. Thanks. Your friend was right, unless you're fond of 13b slab. Come on back up some time!
Being this is my favorite ST thread it was kinda hard to miss.
Thanks for the compliment. You'll love it up here, hope you sort the papers out.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2014 - 01:14am PT
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Wednesday I hooked up with Bearbreeder. Being that it was still a little nippy until the sun came around, we decided to crag at the smoke bluffs a little before heading up the apron.
First we did Flying Circus 10a
Eric Chan Photo
Muscle memory got me through this one although it wasn't pretty.
Then he put up Neat and Cool 10a
Eric Chan Photo
This one kicked my ass. I came off a couple times before grabbing a draw to help me through the move. still need more training.
Next climb up was the Edge 5.9
Eric Chan Photo
I should have wore my edging shoes for this one! My mythos didn't cut it.
With warm-ups we adjourned to the apron to tackle our main objective for the day, Calculus Crack.
Me coming up the second pitch
Eric Chan Photo
I took what i thought was my wallet out of my pocket and left it in the car, but it turned out I actually left my phone in the car and brought my wallet climbing, so no pictures of Eric!
Third pitch was my lead. I love running it out on those amazing jams!
Eric Chan Photo
Eric took the next lead and dispatched it with no trouble, however, for his opening piece just off the belay, he slotted a nut, and clipped it with a single locker. The piece was a couple feet off the belay, just far enough so that i had to step up on to some crappy smears and fight the nut which had of course wedged itself completely sideways in the finger crack directly below my hold.
To make matters worse my nut tool was buried in a clusterfvck of gear so i had to dig through it with one hand while desperately trying to hold on with the other. I managed to get it out and give it a good tap after a couple unintentional attempts at slitting my wrists with the abortion tool.
After that the crux seemed kind of alien, even though i did it again this summer, but i think i was just a little rattled after having to deal with that nut.. lol
Coming up to the notch belay.
Eric Chan Photo
I led the last pitch and dragged Bearbreeder on simul to the tree at the top for the last 20 easy meters. I really didn't want to set up another belay! lol.
Eric wanted to rap down Bad Pants Party and avoid the walk off.
Eric Chan photo
Starting the first rappel
Eric Chan photo
It was another beautiful day out, and nice to get on the chief for a change.
Thanks Eric!!
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Sanskara
climber
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The papers are fine just gotta get them...
I'm a lazy bum about sh#t like that. I'll get em, it's something to do instead of watch old Dukes Of Hazard and I Dream Of Jeannie reruns all day...
Looks like you had the worst day ever!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Pretty sure we didn't start before 10 and we were down in time for a snack, a couple beers, and an evening of bouldering.
Last time I climbed the Grand it was a hot mid-summer day, so we started (that is, woke up) at about 6. The sun broke over the rim just as Robert pulled the last move onto Bellygood. So probably less than five hours on the climb. If Robert had been climbing it with someone on his level, it would have taken about 2 hours. Hamish and Peder climbed it five times one day, and that was with a break in the afternoon to let a rain shower pass.
The real secret is just being physically fit and confident.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2014 - 12:54pm PT
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Nice Dave. That's the truth. Being in good shape really helps.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Re: The Sword being sustained - it isn't sustained at the grade, but it's a bit of a head game the whole way through. Two cruxes, the first gives it the 11a, the second is an endurance sprint. For me, the crux of the entire pitch is focusing on the pitch and not the ~600 feet of air below you. My first time I went to lead it we ended up retreating cause it was heady. Now I can go up and enjoy the exposure, which there is plenty of.
As Mike says, it's meat and potatoes..... I don't think there's a tricky move on the entire Grand route. It's in your face the entire time. Very deserving of it's classic status. Hoping to get on it in the next month or so if and when we get a sunny dry stretch if anyone is interested.
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Sanskara
climber
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Well heady in your face, muscly and strong is what I have to bring to the table. If you are looking for finesse and graceful movement all bets are off!. 600 feet of exposure does not really bother me tbh. Well at least once I am moving very little bothers me, fear just tends to fade into nothing.
For me it will probably be the 11A parts that pose the biggest problem. I rarely pull on gear or take hangs unless I am risking getting really really hurt if I don't. Most of the time I just go for and figure out a way to just make it happen and not f*#k up. Plus those falls look stupid clean at least on the pitch we are talking about so chances are I will want to just go for it. My best guess saiz that is easier said than done and I pull on some gear ;(
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Sanskara
climber
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All cylinders firing on a good day if its strong and not technical climbing and I really really want it I might insight an 11A. If not I might take a couple falls then pull on some gear.
Gotta do something about this hoof before it matters anyway. Gotta have my ducks in order with regard to what I am doing though once the hoof is better. Bet your ass it won't be wasting much time on ST...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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This is a waste of time??
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Sanskara
climber
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Saturday at the grocery store. Completely foreign concept to me. Looks like it's what most do on Saturday though?
No this is a waste of time ;)
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Sanskara
climber
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Bruce you talking to me..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2014 - 03:17pm PT
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^^^^^ LOL!!! I'd say the time i've put in here has payed off big time over the past year... The support i've received has been priceless and well worth all the hours spent at the computer.
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Sanskara
climber
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Mike,
If u feel I am compromising your thread please say so..!
Love it would never want to f*#k it up in any way.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2014 - 05:41pm PT
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Not at all dude. A bump is a bump. I like it when we're on the front page ;)
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Sanskara
climber
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I could bump it with some ice climbing photos from Vermont , NH and NY if you want but I dont think that's what you're looking for.
Even better if I could find a way to pull pics off my a flickr account onto my iPad I could give you all some killer Canadian Rockies pics. Still though I dint think that's what you are looking for either...
I'll just ramble...
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tooth
Trad climber
B.C.
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Sold.
Thanks Mike!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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No Bruce he just rented out your spare room for a root canal & 6 units of scaling.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2014 - 09:16pm PT
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Sorry Bruce I needed the dental work!! But seriously if i sold something i want my cut! Lol
Sanskara we try and keep it Squamish related, but road trip photos from Squamish climbers get a pass. Folks around here love mountains so i'm sure they wouldn't mind a few rockies photos, but maybe it would be good threadbait to start a rockies thread?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Yes Sanskara, start a Rockies thread. Let's keep Squamish as free of choss as possible :-)
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tooth
Trad climber
B.C.
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no! I'm sold on Squamish. Your condo is too expensive anyway and the gunfire stories aren't attractive either!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2014 - 09:48pm PT
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Lol Tooth, you're welcome. I should start charging council a recruiting fee! Lol
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Sanskara
climber
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Will do but all my pictures are trapped..
One group on a fried I Mac the others on a friends Flickr account I have no idea how to get the pictures of of...
Anyone know how to do that. That being take pictures off a Flickr account and put them in my photos on say my iPad.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2014 - 10:23pm PT
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You can save each one individually off flickr. Just click see all sizes in the photo menu and the there's an option to download the largest size.
Tooth- Diedre! Can't wait to hit that again!!
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Sanskara
climber
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Hmm I got as far as that screen and picking a size and then it would not download.
I am stuck on an iPad as my lap top died and I'm broke bitch!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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All this gun talk has me wondering. The impression that we yanks generally get is that you guys are pretty tame compared to us here in the States. Unless of course you watch Trailer Park Boys. Do you guys have that weird ammo hoarding/shortage thing going on up there?
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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So what is the short version of what is restricted? Handguns? Magazine capacities? Non-sporting calibers? just curious.
Thread-drift unintended.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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That entitlement thing always sketches me out, but I think the perception is enhanced by an unbalanced mass media.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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So why don't you post some climbing there ya bogen?
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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I already apologized for the thread drift and this thread is already full of enlightening sh#t, so just simmer down Adam. Sheesh. ;^)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Click on my name to see my sh#t there boss. I clicked on yours & all i saw was sheep jokes.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Use your computer as it was intended. How hard is it to use the search functions? If you trash this thread, I will personally infect your sister.
Not.
But really, check it out. It is one of the coolest threads on this sight.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Fair enough. The bathroom they call El Cap awaits you.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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I stand correctected.
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tooth
Trad climber
B.C.
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So I live in BC. Some non-hunting, non-restricted guns are: semi-auto SKS, Baretta Cx4 storm, Bushmaster ACR, Tavor Tav21, and
Mannlicher Steyr HS .50 BMG-M-1 Repeater Rifle.
So the list is pretty random of what isn't allowed. AR's are a no-no. Just because the RCMP put it on the naughty list. But you can use your restricted license to buy one.
My friends in the US had no clue that you could own anything up here until they come visit me. We live wayyy out of town, and I have convinced a couple that they could live in Canada despite the gun laws by taking them shooting in my back yard. The good part about it is that we don't have the shortages/runs on ammo like you guys get.
Here's a local hunting shop, you can check out the list of guns they sell...
http://www.grouseriver.com/Firearms_s/1.htm
All there is behind my place are logging cut blocks, no climbing. I can't imagine that shooting in that tight valley in Squamish would be such a great idea. I'll probably sell the guns if I move in to the city.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Guns and real estate?
How about...
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Anyone know what the girl was doing out at 2am? Any idea where exactly they found her on the track? Quite a story!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2014 - 12:56pm PT
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Wow. That's pretty crazy Squamish Sar saved her! Congrats!
That caj article is classic!! I'd love to read the rest.
Ghost- is that Boogie till you puke? Aka poop? Lol
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Ghost- is that Boogie till you puke? Aka poop? Lol
Yes. Although a few years before the notorious pant-loading incident. It was on the same day that Nico Favresse was working Cobra Crack just a few meters to the right. You can see his cinematographer's leg in this shot.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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That's cool Ghost, I met Nico at the top of angels crest a few years(5-6?) back. That same summer as your photo I would guess as I think he did the cobra that summer.
Him and his homie Sean had just finished an on sight simul climb of it in about an hour, we had just pitched it out in 6 or 7 hrs lol. We all smoked a huge spliff & went bouldering. They were both super humble Belgian crushers that had a lotta psyche on Squamish & climbing in general. Really infectious energy & kind dudes.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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It is always a little sad when a geat climbing icon passes away, especially when they are so closely associated with the early development of Squamish. At 86 or 87 Mel was almost a contemporary of Uncle Fred, and they did a lot of routes together. We used to refer to him as Aunt Melanie, but not to his face of course. Quite the 'odd couple'. Rock on, Aunty Mel!!
Last day at WH2O today. That's a little sad too.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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The "Fish" I knew at Squamish (Dave Fulton), the one who climbed Wadd with Scott and rescued the stockbrokers, is not an 85-year-old. My guess is that he's probably in his mid-50s now, and whatever has happened to him since his Squamish days, I don't see it including becoming a mormon preacher.
If you want a look at him, there's a fairly well-known photo of him on the big traverse pitch on the Daily Planet. I think taken by Kevin McLane -- I've pasted it in below (and will remove it if KM asks me to).
The older guy that you published the death notice for is unknown to me. Hamie obviously knew him, and it sounds like he was a serious climber, but he is not the "Fish" who climbed a lot at Squamish in the 80s
Here's the photo...
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Ghost
How about $10- for Bruce, and $10- for me? Just cos.....
I vaguely recall that Tricouni may have climbed with Aunty Mel once or twice, and may have some thoughts to add?
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Bruce got too much sun today...
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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That black dyke story was fantstic and the bute blurb aswell.
Who wrote them?
Awesome pic of boogie til you puke David. A Lane/Flavelle classic!
IIRC Dave told me that John Howe had prepped the route for a free ascent but hadn't had the chance to climb it yet. Dave and Scott were up there climbing and couldn't resist picking the ripe plum.
Years later Dave scrubbed a line at pet wall and gave John the FA. Even Steven.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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That black dyke story was fantstic and the bute blurb aswell.
John makes the climb he and Blake did on Needle Peak (the "Busted in Bute" story) sound like something casual but not very pleasant. Well, Luke, this picture's for you:
We flew over the drainage John and Blake had bashed up, and we couldn't imagine what it must have been like. And for a climb that didn't live up to their hopes... Well, just look at it.
Both Greg Foweraker and Tami Knight were on the trip during which we saw what John and Blake had done, and I suspect they'll probably both agree that it was totally badass.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2014 - 09:27pm PT
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Casual Choss.. Lol
His progeny and sweetheart must be spirited away from danger... but its going to take a little money. Fortunately we only need to provide our banking information ( and PIN) in order to make a small donation to this cause.... or just send me the cash in the mail, which ever is easier.
So thats it. Its another ST fund raiser. Buck up people- its for one of the tribe!!!
Lol. Nice theory Bruce. Thanks for the tales. I quite enjoyed both, but Mel was an awesome writer. Sorry to hear of his passing.
I also enjoyed the snafflehouds tale. Thank you for that Andy.
Cool pics Dave! Thanks!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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There's a boulder problem in the north walls called Styx. It's kind of scary actually but really good moves ;-)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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There's a boulder problem in the north walls called Styx.
Speaking of boulders under the North Walls, there's a real monster right up against the base of the wall about half way between the Angels Crest and Borderline. Thing's gotta be well over 20 meters high.
I spent a lot of time right near it putting up a couple of 1-pitch things about... I don't know, maybe seventeen, eighteen years ago? Bouldering was never my thing, but this chunk of stone was pretty impressive. One of you pad people ought to go up there and check it out.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nah that rope belongs to a poster here, it's been there for a while.
He's waiting for higher quality psychedelics before going any higher. Hehe "higher".
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MH2
climber
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I usually put a date on my photos. When they show for 6 seconds on the screensaver, then I can locate them by the date if I want.
Some photos I put a note on. Names or the place; a kind of a cheat on dementia, or just backup for memory.
Of course, the note I put on photos usually gives me some clue about WHY I PUT IT THERE. That is the reason for it being there.
The other day I was, as usual, idly watching the screensaver, when I noticed:
I have no idea what that note is doing there.
Here is a better look at the Roman Chimneys. No note needed.
The better look at the Roman Chimneys comes from 7 Oct 2010. That was the time I learned that my Petzl Tikka, while helpful for climbing in the dark or coming down the trail at night, was useless for spotting a rappel station 10 metres to the side. Fortunately, my partner had a better headlamp.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1281932&msg=1281932#msg1281932
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 12, 2014 - 11:12pm PT
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We're here. Saturday night in Squamish. Too late to climb, but the weather looks good for the next couple of days.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 13, 2014 - 12:35am PT
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Post up where you're going climbing at some point Ghost, or maybe we will just see you at the church on 99 in the morning.
Hey Bruce! I meant to say hi to you in the grocery store last night but got sidetracked trying to convince the stock boy that I saw you put a pack of razor blades in your pocket.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 13, 2014 - 12:41am PT
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Social media updates have led me to believe that the monkeys are indeed "sending"...
Hope every one enjoys the nice weather.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 13, 2014 - 10:48am PT
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Need a bunk? Thanks, but we're okay in that department.
Hey Bruce! I meant to say hi to you in the grocery store last night...
The grocery store is the new meeting place. Always seem to run into someone there. We went shopping when we arrived in town and ran into Kevin McLane. Who said he was working on a new comprehensive guidebook with Andrew Boyd.
Anyway, while I was talking to him, a young guy (young compared to KM and me, anyway) walked up and said "Excuse me, but you're Kevin McLane, aren't you?" Kevin said he was. "I'm Rob Lane, Dave Lane's son..."
Not sure what our plans are for today. I've have to do a couple of hours work, and then I think Mari wants to hit Area 44. That'll probably be around 10:30 or so.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 13, 2014 - 12:43pm PT
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Well have fun up there David, i don't think i'll be able to stop by there. My phone went for a swim yesterday so i'm gonna try & deal with that & some honey-dos then hopefully go climb something in the afternoon.
Where you going Bruce?? How nice & dry was the pet?
edit- lol Dave L should have strapped a grigri to the kids if it was already anchored down!
second edit- I heard a rumour that the OP might be up on wrist twister today so be sure to stop by & cheer him on if you are near the Chief.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2014 - 02:54pm PT
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Wow. Too much good stuff to reply to right now! The monkey's have been sending, but this one's been too tired to post lately. All in good time.
Here's a sneak peak at today's objective.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 13, 2014 - 04:32pm PT
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If any one is hangin around the chief come say high.
Aislinn and I are binocing from the meadow.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2014 - 07:21pm PT
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Nice seats Luke!
Just hanging on a wall again.. Lol
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tooth
Trad climber
B.C.
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Apr 13, 2014 - 08:47pm PT
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Did someone just get rescued? What was the chopper doing?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 13, 2014 - 09:39pm PT
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Typical Sunday in Squamish in April...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2014 - 10:19pm PT
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Tooth, that chopper is a sightseeing chopper out of van who likes to buzz climbers on the chief and sometimes land illegally up there. He buzzed us twice.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2014 - 02:25am PT
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Well they didn't see the moon today. I think that would be very difficult in a body harness at a hanging belay... Lol
I made sure to wave a certain finger at em!!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 14, 2014 - 01:17pm PT
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Two full moons made an appearance on the Camel many years ago that scared the Grouse copter into shutting down completely for four hours.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 14, 2014 - 01:20pm PT
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A brand new bit, three holes, new 10+ route, sunny Fraser Valley granite, what's not to like?
I have a broken rib is what's not to like. So after scrubbing and working the moves on this line pre-break, I ended up handing it over, gift wrapped, yesterday to a good friend of mine for the send. Despite having seven kids and consequently getting to climb about twice per year, he sent. Good times.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 14, 2014 - 01:52pm PT
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Somebody's gotta work to pay for the baby boomers' retirements right?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 14, 2014 - 10:26pm PT
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Sorry for the OT dude!
And dudette!!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Hey Mike dude I went to check u out around the magic hour(615) last night to take a photo but the wall was clear.
How was the wall???!!?!!!!!!!??!??!111111!!!!!!!!??!?!!!1111
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Sanskara
climber
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Apr 14, 2014 - 10:37pm PT
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Mike might be the only climber on ST that actually climbs.
Good on you bro with all you have been through..
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 14, 2014 - 11:08pm PT
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Mike might be the only climber on ST that actually climbs.
You have been paying attention Sanskara!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 14, 2014 - 11:50pm PT
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Mike might be the only climber on ST that actually climbs.
I don't know about that. He said he'd done some climbing yesterday, but all we saw him do was eat food and drink beer.
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scaredycat
Trad climber
Berkeley,CA
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Apr 15, 2014 - 12:00am PT
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So, if you were coming up from, oh say, Seattle to climb in Squamish, would you:
1) plead to say with a pretty distant friend in Vancouver (no worries, y'all are safe)
2) stay at Klahanie Campground
3) drive logging roads until you found a nice site moderately close to to the climbing
x) plan 9
?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 15, 2014 - 12:11am PT
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Klahanie campground is a cool spot I think.
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Sanskara
climber
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Apr 15, 2014 - 12:15am PT
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I thought drinking beer and eating was climbing....
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 15, 2014 - 12:47am PT
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The provincial campground is a cool spot I think.
It's good when there is toilet paper there.
So anyhow, just to change the tune for a minute here I just got off the phone with a friend who will remain unnamed but had a harrowing tale that i'll share here:
On top of the roman chimneys there is some ledges with a cave with a few steep sport routes called the shelter. On the sides & base of the cave there is some real steep, powerful bouldering possibilities. Anyways he was up there by himself bouldering when he ripped off a 5' long by 2' wide by a foot thick slab of granite causing him to assrocket & have the slab land on his lap, pinning him down. With help from endorphins he was able to flip the rock off and some how stand up. He soon realized he shouldn't/couldn't stand up and had to lie back down. He tried to crawl/drag himself to the backside trail but after only a few meters he had to make the call. Apparently he got plucked by John H on a long line becoming possibly the first bouldering heli-vac in Squamish history?
Anyways, turned out he was real lucky & only ended up with a fractured pelvis. An inch or two in any direction & the doc said it woulda squished something he would have needed or wanted in the future.
Watch out for choss there everyone.....
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 15, 2014 - 01:30am PT
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Holy Cow.
Edit
Big chunks of granite exfoliating near or onto climbers has got to be my biggest fear. It fricken terrifies me. And the more I pay attention to the idea of lurking death blocks the more I realize they're every where just waitng to be motivated.
Here hopin for a full recovery to our fallen compadre hopefully he's got some friends or family to help him through the recovery.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2014 - 01:45am PT
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Lol. Classic tale about Dave Lane Bruce. Thanks.
Very cool pictures of the chimney Andy! I gotta get up there!
Everyone wants wall pics and i'm gonna get there but i have a few other tales to tell first.
Ryan that is such a gnarly story!!!
I was so glad to have an intact pelvis.
Last week was pretty darn decent for climbing. Sunday was sunny and warm but it had rained the day before so there were definitely some wet spots. Sandra had the day off miraculously, so we finally got her out cragging for her first day of the season.
She wanted to lead Davey Jones's Locker but it was soaked, so she settled for Pixie Corner after a little encouragement. (I told her i'd lead it if she didn't!)
She did well and almost got the redpoint despite the moistness of the cracks.
Then we went to burgers and I lead wisecrack, and we left early because the wind was rather brisk.
Edit oh ya! She asked me to take pics of her bad gear for her:
Funny thing is this was the crux piece and i've never seen her place a crappier piece in her climbing career! Lol
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2014 - 02:02am PT
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Sanskara: I'm not the only guy that climbs around here. Just the one of the only who enjoys sharing about my climbing adventures.
I'll admit that i have an ulterior motive however, and that is to spark memories of the past, in the hopes that they will be shared and Squamish climbing history/mythology will be further enhanced by doing so. I love hearing fa tales from the pioneers. The things they did with the gear they had constantly amaze me.
The boldness of the average climber back then seemed to be at a much higher par.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2014 - 03:05am PT
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It rained the first couple days of the week, but the sun popped out again late on Tuesday making Wednesday somewhat dry again.
I got out with Toby who had a couple gigs for me to look at.
We parked at his place in the bluffs and headed up to Penny Lane.
We warmed up on Quarryman and I led it for the first time in over a year. It was a bit wet at the crux, which was scary, but I got through it and it felt good.
Then Toby hit up Clandestine Affair 5.9
I managed to follow cleanly despite some sloppy footwork on the traverse.
After we headed over to Penny Lane and I turned down the lead. I'm just not ready for a crux like that right off the ground quite yet.
Here is Toby well above the crux.
I fell at the start after i got established on the crack, and after i took down the gear anchor then soloed over to the power windows anchor, Marc Andre appeared on penny and i offered him a ride on our rope.
Notice the excellent duffer style. Marc is headed to the valley. Hopefully we'll see him down there!!
Later that night i called Toby and we schemed up some big plans for the next day.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 15, 2014 - 03:12pm PT
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Great pictures Mikey ma boy, well except the one of micromarc duffersittin' in a tank top... Ouch
I would take the Satan Slit descent over that any day.
I had an awesome day on Sunday, after an acupuncture visit with Melissa Wheaton, Aislinn and I cruised to The Chief where I promtly sent the Stewamus LAyback, of the couch, first try with no pre-placed gear or any bouldering pads....
It was "heads up" to say the least.
Watched two teams on the take on The Grandwall: the first team had one leader leading every pitch AND carrying the pack. He styled through the sword crux and was looking solid up the final stretch, but couldn't hang on to the chains and took the ride, not once but twice.
The second party; a guy and gal with the guy leading everything except the Pillar. What I miss the most is that nice belay break between leading the Pillar and following the Sword, especially when there weather is as good as it was Sunday...
I have a couple pictures but the keep flipping sideways when I try to Upload them. Shoot.
...........................................................................
Mike the suspense is killing me, What happened the next day?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2014 - 05:13pm PT
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What happened next? Only the biggest climbing day i've forced this incomplete paraplegic body to complete so far! Lol
After I got home from climbing on Wednesday I had a workout at the gym with my personal trainer who's been helping me train for my el cap ascent.
My left quad seized up on me halfway through the workout thanks to my limited intake of water.
I spent a couple hours in the pool and tub after to try and work it out. Knowing the hell i was planning to exert on it the next day.
Toby and I made plans to meet up for a Rambles/Banana Peel/Buttress/Face ascent at 9am.
In the morning he seemed dubious as to whether it would be dry enough to pull off this early season feat.
I assured him from the road that we would find a way. :)
We decided to pitch out Rambles into two pitches for a warm up. The weather was greybird as I cast off on the wet opening moves, but it looked as if it wanted to clear at some point.
I gained first pitch anchor fairly easily and decided to clip it with a shoulder length sling before heading up the diagonal.
Toby tried to warn me off, and i should have listened, but i assured him it would be fine. The diagonal was good until I got to the transfer point and had to step up onto the slab out of a mucky puddle.
I cleaned my shoes on my pant legs and put my right foot in the slot. It stuck, and i pulled up easily and danced around the runoff to the belay.
Toby followed quickly and dispatched the next pitch with ease and setup belay at the base of Banana Peel.
I followed the pitch quickly, especially after watching toby climb the crux, which i'd never had good beta on.
Toby had assumed that i would lead Banana Peel since i would be more likely to pull him off, but my lead head felt weird and i felt he could make better time.
I reasoned with him that i had more route experience therefore i was less likely to come off.
So he cast off on the first pitch, and when he reached the end of our shortened rope, I followed.
It was pretty cruisey until i got to the diagonal. I made the stiff moves near the bolt with ease and made my way right across the groove.
As i stepped up out of the groove, I unweighted my left foot a little too much and it started to skid. I stomped it back into the slab and stepped up onto my trusty right foot to get the heck out of there.
After that the focus was on and i was unstoppable. I gave toby a hip belay for the crux and he returned the favour.
I pretty much cruised the rest of it, but Toby told me later he'd had a little slip getting onto the slab after the notch.
We made good time to the top of the apron and decided that we would be able to continue on to the top and still make it down to pick up toby's kid on time from school.
Sorry no photos, just a whirlwind of climbing.
After a break for some water and a snack at the base of the buttress Toby linked the first two pitches and got us to here.
Toby at the second pitch belay on the Squamish Buttress
The view from the same belay
I led the next two pitches to the boulder and stacked the rope for a flip just in case Toby wanted to try the Buttress crux pitch. He declined, and we flipped the rope anyways so i could establish us at the base of the 10a buttface crux.
Everything went smooth till i unclipped the second bolt before i completed the move and botched the left foot, sending me for a rope stretcher into the gully. I was fine except for the scrapes on my arm and a couple cuts on my index finger.
When i got back up to the move, I had to clip into the bolt so i could rest before i had enough energy to pull the move. Lol
I was pretty happy though because this was really the only pitch i had any issue on the whole route.
The view from the base of the buttface chimney.
Toby was kind enough to take a few photos of me when we topped out.
Your's truly at the buttress summit.
Toby Foord Kelsey photo
I told him we had to summit first peak to consider it a Chief "Send" so we hoofed it up the slab and did a few unprotected slab moves off a tree to get to the summit.
Toby enjoying the summit views before we had to go rescue his son from school.
1st peak pano!
Big Mike on his first incomplete paraplegic Chief summit.
Toby Foord Kelsey photo
My quad that I mentioned earlier had been bugging me ever since we started the buttress, and it didn't get any better on the way down. Thankfully i was smart enough to bring lots of water this time as i still had some left.
After we rescued Toby's son, we went to campfire grill and enjoyed some tasty bbq!
When i got home, my left leg seized up on me, and my right leg decided to play along too.
Friday was a total write off. Lol
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 15, 2014 - 05:33pm PT
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Well dude, A lot of us subsidized your education Drew and still toil to make our tax deadlines and dream of a retirement. It regards time passing and the rewards of capitalizing VS, being an employee ...
Jim - I was referring to the fact that my buddy has the seven kids. That's the generation whose work is gonna get taxed to pay for your nursing home!
I just wonder what wages they will make to herd robots all day long.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2014 - 06:59pm PT
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Friday was rest day. I was supposed to have acu but my doc fell ill to food poisoning and i was forced to fend for myself. The day was spent stretching at home and at the pool to get my hurting body somewhat ready for a few pitches the following day.
Saturday Heather and I showed up at Pink Cliff after a rather leisurely start on my part, to find Ryan D enjoying himself.
I warmed up on a Pat in the Back 10a, a slab Nina and Kyle had put up and did ok apart from a couple hangs.
Then Heather put up a 5.9 redpoint Vertically Challenged which was ironic being she climbed it better than I and is significantly shorter. lol
Kyle went to go try Wankulator 10d but just couldn't put his trust in the opening rp.
So he put up Figernipper 10d instead, much to Nina's dismay.
Heather and I were looking for some shade for Khyber and a few more easy routes so we went down to Fern Gully 5.4 and she onsighted it laughing all the way. I climbed it in my approach shoes.
on the way down i Caught Nina on Rampage 5.9
Kyle soloed it to retrieve the anchor
Heather wanted to bail because it was her first day, and Nina had to go to work anyways so I was happy to peace out since my quad and calf were still bugging me from thursday's thrashing.
I wanted to save some juice for my Sunday wall adventure with Nick as well!
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Apr 15, 2014 - 10:52pm PT
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Nice Mike! Glad you are coming along through the difficulties.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 15, 2014 - 11:36pm PT
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Lots of good stuff here. Great shots Mike, I like the one of Nina on Rampage. Such a great backdrop.
I just did my first buttface of the year yesterday too. So nice to be up there!
Rowdy tale Jim B! Sounds like u boys had horseshoes firmly in place. Yikes!
Speaking of camping maybe there won't be a need for organized cleanup on the stawamus in the future.
It’s one of Squamish’s worst-kept secrets, John Harvey says.
For more than 40 years, climbers have pitched their tents on the 10-acre piece of Crown land off Centennial Way. Now, the founder of the Mamquam River Access Society wants to legitimize the illegal camping with the creation of a not-for-profit campground.
“Fifteen years down the road, we would have a revenue stream,” Harvey said, noting that money can in turn be poured into outdoor recreational resources.
The long-term vision for the former Hasting’s Landscape Supply property is to secure a 25-year provincial lease on the lot. The area also needs to be rezoned by the District of Squamish from its industrial use to green corridor to pave way for the campground. Once the paperwork is in place, Harvey estimates it will cost $50,000 to remove wood waste currently on the property and an additional $50,000 to install 45 individual, private campsites.
“The support I have seen for this project is huge,” Harvey said.
The Squamish Access Society, Squamish Paddling Club, Squamish Off-Road Cycling Association and Squamish Windsports Society all back the idea. The facility will address the community’s need for more camping, access society vice-president Charlie Harrison said. Stawamus Chief Provincial Park campground is regularly fully booked and the district-run campsite beside the Brennan Park Recreation Centre is uninviting, Harrison said. As a result, adventurers end up illegally camping in the Squamish Estuary and along the Stawamus and Mamquam rivers.
“We are definitely in support of any new camping,” he said.
Down the road, the community needs to look at filling the gap for cheap camping. Harvey estimates the Mamquam River lots will run at $8 per night, which quickly eats into one’s wallet when staying at a site for the climbing season, Harrison said, noting climbing hot spot Bishop, Calif., offers $2 campsites in an effort to discourage illegal setups.
http://www.squamishchief.com/news/local-news/rec-groups-back-proposed-campground-1.962656
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 15, 2014 - 11:50pm PT
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the district-run campsite beside the Brennan Park Recreation Centre is uninviting
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 15, 2014 - 11:53pm PT
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Both of us were completely exhausted by the size and complexity of the climb but it was Sunday night and being duty bound robots to our jobs, we started driving back to Vancouver.
There is no shortage of Vancouver climbers who said to Mr. Serl: "It's pitch dark and we're gonna die if we keep going. Let's just bivi and finish the descent in the morning."
You got the "I've got to be at work in the morning" line. What I got was "Bivi? Here? Why would I spend the night shivering on the ground here when I've got a comfortable bed at home?"
Oh yeah. Out with the Serl again.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Apr 15, 2014 - 11:57pm PT
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cry me a river
I'm sorry, you will need a permit for that discharge!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 15, 2014 - 11:58pm PT
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Lol
What else did you guys climb, I mean drink this weekend in Squamish? Ghost? Bruce?
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Apr 16, 2014 - 12:00am PT
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Bruce did nothing but rant about the freak show in Nevada all weekend...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 16, 2014 - 12:45am PT
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What else did you guys climb, I mean drink this weekend in Squamish? Ghost? Bruce?
Bruce, so we're told, didn't climb, but rather ranted about something in Nevada. I don't know anything about that, but I can confirm that while we actually did climb, it was what we didn't climb that was much more interesting.
You have to understand that we're not sport climbers. I've probably climbed three sport routes in my life (unless you count gym routes, in which case it's three thousand). Mari started out sport climbing, but once she discovered cracks, she promised god that if he never told anyone she was a sport climber, she'd never clip bolts again.
But last year, on a down day, she decided we should check out Area 44. It's pretty, but like I said, I don't get sport climbing, and she did one pitch and said "This place sucks dead rats." Okay, fine. There's plenty of other climbs in the Squamish area, so not going back to Area 44 is no big deal.
I think the anthrax bacteria she was working with in the lab last week must have infected her brain, because on Sunday morning she said "Let's go to Area 44. Maybe a few easy clip-ups will be a good way to get back into it." Which is weird because just a couple of weeks early she'd been running it out on real climbs down at Cochise.
So we amble over the hill and down to the base of the climbs, and, Oh! Yeah! The view is awesome! The topos that are posted every five meters lead us to a 5.8 that is occupied by two guides and three clients, and much yelling of "Just put your left foot up on that hold by your knee! No, the other foot! No, that other hold! Yeah! You can do it! Now, right hand up!"
So we backtrack a few meters, check another one of the topos, and Mari decides that the 5.9 in front of our noses will do just fine. The topo says the first bolt is high. It doesn't look really high, but we figure that at Area 44, 2.5 meters probably counts as high, and off she goes.
And stalls out between the 3rd and 4th bolts. Go this way. Back down. Go that way. Back down. Try straight up again. Back down. At which point one of the guides from the show beside us walks over and says "Dunno if it matters, but that thing your on is 11c." Mari looks down and says "Oh." Then, "Are you sure? I thought this was a 5.9." "No, the 5.9 is that one."
"That one" is two bolt lines to our right. Probably about three meters.
So, she lowers from a bail biner and we move the required three meters and, yes, that first bolt is a ways up. But no worries, there's an easy chimney just to the left that looks like an easy alternative to get to where she can clip that bolt. Or it would be if only she was a lot taller. She wants to do some ridiculous intermediate move, but I am looking at the non-existent belay anchors, and the steep slope down which we'll both cartwheel, and tell her that a badly bolted sport rig on shitty rock isn't worth dying for.
So we pack up and leave, and on our way to some real climbing we wonder what the guides told the noobs about the two old people who couldn't seem to climb anything.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 16, 2014 - 01:12am PT
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Good stuff Ghost, classic sandbagging.
I don't know wtf u boys are on about though. Area 44 has probably the best, fastest drying routes in Squamish. The best view & greatest rock quality. Everyone should go there every time they go climbing, well either there or on top of the new gondola.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 16, 2014 - 01:24am PT
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It's true, the view really doesn't suck.
Sadly, the climbing does suck. But I agree, Everyone should go there every time they go climbing, .
That way, you and your partner would be the only climbers at whatever crag you decided to climb at. Just like Mari and I were the only climbers on the Papoose on Monday.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 16, 2014 - 01:37am PT
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A-Ha!
I knew you were holding out.
I don't think it matters how many ppl you tell. The papoose will never be as popular as it deserves. A lot of good work done there over the past year too.
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tooth
Trad climber
B.C.
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Apr 16, 2014 - 02:49am PT
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Big Mike I think we saw you guys at Pink Cliff on Saturday. My wife and I climbed a few routes there - we were the couple with the 3 month old baby.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 16, 2014 - 12:03pm PT
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one of these days I'm gonna dig out my pic of Don hiking up McGuire clad only in a pair of stained y-fronts.
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MH2
climber
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Apr 16, 2014 - 12:37pm PT
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Very fine photos and stories. Great to see what Mike and Toby did. The recent blue skies and warmth were much appreciated.
Nominating Bruce Kay for storyteller of distinction. Nice support from Jim Brennan.
Ghost says that he and Mari were at area 44 so I guess they were. Not easy to find an 11c there. Maybe the trick is to look for a 5.9? Sounds similar to what happened to Tom and me at The Pillary.
This is the revised topo. Things were much more confusing at the time. For example, the leftmost line was shown as complete, with several bolts, but had only 1 bolt. Other lines were misdrawn.
(Frolich)
The plan to get everyone climbing there looked well on the way to success.
Nice for a picnic, though.
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thesiger
climber
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Apr 16, 2014 - 01:52pm PT
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Mike, are you sure that buttface ascent wasn't some kind of dream or paranormal event? That two-headed Toby dude is sort of transparent in the summit pic and those purple Mythos are from last century.
Anyway, leaving that aside, when are your crew heading down for my windows?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 16, 2014 - 04:18pm PT
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This thread reminded me it's nearly Interior Limestone season!
More choss than you can shake a stick at!
I heard a great story from Robert about the first ascent of "None but the brave"... RyanD you should go jump on that one! Still waiting for a second ascent!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 16, 2014 - 05:11pm PT
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Lookit all them summits there, just ready to fall right over if u fart too loudly!
Sounds interesting Oplopanax, maybe if u told a little of the story u were told it would sound more enticing??
Since its pissing out here ill type a few words on my experience or lack thereof with interior limestone.
I used to drive thru marble canyon all the time on the way to moms when I lived in Whistler. This was also around the time I started rockclimbing so naturally I thought the place was some sort of Mecca that was only absent of climbers due to geographic location. After a few summers & a trip to potrero this fledgling thought it was time to take a closer look at Marble canyon. I figured I'd scope it out & come back with a friend to develop Potrero north. Even in my state of extreme n00bdom(still a n00b) it only took one foray up to the base of the wall to realize I was nowheres near ready for the types of adventure that the rock there looked guaranteed to provide. After that it took awhile to understand why everyone thought limestone was so cool & that Potrero was choss.
That said I'm always blown away by the creativity of the landscape there, the contrast of the walls with the beautiful blues of the lake would probably be quite stunning from a higher vantage point.
Great photo too!
Andy, good stuff on the pillary. I liked the zoomed photo of the roman chimneys a lil ways back too.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 16, 2014 - 06:28pm PT
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I presume the large pinnacle is Chimney Rock, but what are the smaller ones to the right called?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 16, 2014 - 06:43pm PT
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Glenn, this is "The Castle" area over at the far right, i.e. north of the Icy BC waterfall and a three hour slog up mobile scree approach. Iain Stewart-Patterson did some 5-pitch route in this area, I think on the cliff behind the pinnacle. I don't think the pinnacles in this area even have names, let alone routes... the big one's about two pitches high and the rest are less than a ropelength. Lyle or Garry might be able to tell us more.
RyanD, some stories can't be shared without permission - the Natives said that certain families or clans owned a story and they were the only ones who could tell it. And I'm not about to appropriate from Clan Nugent.
But in a highly edited form, ;), he was climbing with a gal he'd never met before, she subtly challenged his manliness, they got up on this giant chimney sickle feature that had been previously bailed on a few times, it turned into the worst choss imaginable, and they had to keep battling upwards because none of the gear, including belays, would hold body weight, so there was no way to rappel....
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 16, 2014 - 06:48pm PT
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Thanks, Oplo, so Chimney Rock is out of sight in this photo?
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Sanskara
climber
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Apr 16, 2014 - 06:53pm PT
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Wow,
You guys are very fortunate to live where you do.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 16, 2014 - 07:13pm PT
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Here's the Chimney, aka Coyote's Penis, in all its glory Glenn. It's about 2 km northwest of the other photo.
The redder or oranger the limestone is the more rotten it is.... only route on the Penis is up the back side.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 16, 2014 - 07:27pm PT
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Ahh, thanks. Yes, the red stuff is ungood for climbing.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Apr 17, 2014 - 01:54am PT
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Here's a couple of pix of Chimney Rock [aka Chimney Rock :)] I posted one of them before.
The rock was pretty good.
Climber circled. You'll have to trust me on that!
Hi Glenn.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 17, 2014 - 02:18am PT
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Great photos, Hamie!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2014 - 03:18am PT
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Yes please!! ^^^^^
Mh2, nice shots. 44 certainly has grown in popularity with the sport crowd lately. Rarely a day is there i don't see a couple cars parked on the highway when i'm going to Squamish.
Dave, i'm glad you guys had fun at the papoose.
Dru- Nice shots of the choss. I've driven through there on the way north a few times. I find it beautiful, but less than inviting.. Lol
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 17, 2014 - 12:01pm PT
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You know on second thought and closer inspection it seems kinda like one could start up the gray-and-red corner at lower left in my photo and then follow gray rock all the way to the top near the left skyline, provided a buzzy hole-maker and a bucket o' bolts came along with you. Somebody should get right on that.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2014 - 12:04pm PT
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Someone should send Jeremy or Munge a plane ticket. I bet a whole bunch of routes would get put up in the canyon!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2014 - 12:20pm PT
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Oh i know there are. I just meant a bunch more! Lol
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Apr 17, 2014 - 02:20pm PT
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Is a bolt useless if you don't fall onto it?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 17, 2014 - 02:22pm PT
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I like to dream that there is at least one crag in that entire canyon that has a rope length high by 100m or so wide wall of overhanging bulletproof rock with nice pockets and edges.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2014 - 02:23pm PT
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I think Hilti is happy to sell extra hardware.
Tooth- cool! What routes did you guys do at Pink Cliff?
Maybe there is, somewhere under the choss Ryan. Lol
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 17, 2014 - 02:27pm PT
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Bloody oath is right!!
Do we have Bruce questioning the use of bolts now?!
What has happened?
Next thing u know he's going to chop everything @ area 44 & lead it on peckers & hand placed pitons & call it a trad climbing area!!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 17, 2014 - 02:48pm PT
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Cool little flick of PAul Mcsorley, Tony Richardson and Chris Brazeau climbing in Patagonia.
https://vimeo.com/78964658
Hey look its RyanD:
Oplo- That picture of Chimney Rock is awesome.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 17, 2014 - 03:46pm PT
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There's about 10 feet of one wall that has pockets - the Mouse/Rather Be on Robson - and that's pretty much it, and I've climbed at most every crag in the canyon.
The Oregon Jack sport crag does have pockets - most with guano weeping out of them as I recall. But that just complements the three foot thick carpet of rat turds at the base.
On the other hand there are a few nice pockets on the same limestone but further north, up by Clinton. Even some nice non-blocky, water worn overhangs - see bottom left in photo for instance.
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perswig
climber
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Apr 17, 2014 - 03:49pm PT
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.... only route on the Penis is up the back side.
I'm gonna pretend I didn't read this.
Dale
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Apr 17, 2014 - 06:10pm PT
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There's lotsa cracks on Chimney Rock. The existing route is all gear, no bolts.
Bruce, coffee table books are so "old style". I am working on a book coffee table, but it's hard to attach the legs, and the final result is both unstable and a bit too small.
Meanwhile I am eagerly awaiting Glenn's book on Dick [tentative name "See Dick Climb"], and Anders' multi-volume undertaking, "A History of All Things Squamish".
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2014 - 06:14pm PT
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Bruce, coffee table books are so "old style". I am working on a book coffee table, but it's hard to attach the legs, and the final result is both unstable and a bit too small.
Classic Hamish. Thank you. ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2014 - 11:05pm PT
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Sweet link Luke! Thanks for that!
Sunday's plan was to head up the Bullethead Gully and check out Wrist Twister. I met up with Nick in a very busy Chief parking lot.
Our version of el cap meadow... lol
After we racked up, we started up the Tantalus wall trail and made our way up to the gully. It was easy going until we reached the fixed ropes. One of them looked fairly new, so that inspired some confidence. The rotten fixed etrier however was not to be trusted especially since the top step was ripped wide open.
I took my time and made sure my left foot was solid whenever possible while wrapping my hand with the rope. The last thing I needed was a huge fall on to Nick at this point in my recovery.
I got up the rope into the central gully and started climbing up the divots left by the passage of many soles. I had almost reached the fixed rope to Eurasian eyes when Nick called up to me. I think it's down here! I looked back and spotted the fixed rope up to our starting ledge.
Nick went first up the next rope, and I was somewhat assured by his safe passage. I took my time and the rope was fairly new, so it wasn't that bad, but i just felt really exposed in that kind of terrain without protection.
When I arrived Nick was looking up at the first pitch. I studied it for a bit when he asked; "do you want to lead the first pitch?" The start of the pitch was an undercling leading up to a blank wall. I could see a good bolt about 10m up, but all I could see before that were rivets, and I couldn't even see the first one.
I still felt sketch from the gully and felt like I'd maxed out my risk meter for the day. Nick said it was cool, because following was harder anyways and I should probably practice it more.
He set off and after a scary start on a dowel which wanted to come out in his hand, he was cruising.
Nick climbing rivets on the first pitch
He led the pitch quite solidly, but because it was so long (50m) it probably took him just over an hour. I followed it pretty quick up till the first lower out, where it took me awhile to realize my ushba backup wasn't working out so great.
As soon as i ditched it and put on my grigri things got a lot easier, but the pitch still took me about an hour to follow. I probably spent 20 of that at the lowerout figuring out my dumb mistake.
It took me awhile to get settled at the belay as Nick racked up for p2. I couldn't figure out how to get comfortable in the belay seat? :) duh.
Nick taking off on p2
Just like that he was off, and i was left alone, sitting in the sky...
yes, that's my finger...
I ate my sandwich and listened to nick curse at sh!tty copperheads. Then i took another picture, and realized I had some texts so I replied to Luke. I had customized my case the night previous to include a clip in loop, for just such shenanigans while on belay.
It was such a beautiful day.
Nick was making good progress.
Until he got to the first dyke however where he couldn't find the hook move for the life of him. He spent quite a while looking for anything that would stick, but the hook just kept skating off everything he tried.
Finally he gave up, and I lowered him back to the belay. Nick asked if i'd like to go up there and check it out, but I declined the offer.
We rapped back to the start, not knowing where the rappel anchor was and not liking the look of the trees below it we would have to rap through, we elected to go back to the starting ledge.
On the way down, the rope snaked through the flake and while it looked really cool, i soon realized when it didn't want to pull out how lame it was. I worked the rope and pulled both strands alternately and eventually I managed to free the snag.
I made it down to the ledge and the rope pulled without incident. I was not fond of going back down the fixed rope, but there was another old petzl rope, just sitting there in a coil weathering away. So i fixed it in the gully and that way i had two strands to rap on the way down instead of just one.
Nick coming down the gully
I'm hoping we get a chance to go back sometime soon!
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Sanskara
climber
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Apr 17, 2014 - 11:19pm PT
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 17, 2014 - 11:57pm PT
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Nice Mike! Did u notice if there was draws fixed on Eurasian eyes??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 12:12am PT
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You could kind of see it through the trees and there were climbers on it so i couldn't tell.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 01:41am PT
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Thanks Jim! i would love to get out on a wall for a night of anyone wants to do a grade 5?
Matt, no i don't but there are a few individuals here that could fulfill your request. I thought cragging was not your style? Lol
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 18, 2014 - 02:04am PT
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No sir. It's too far of a walk, I'd need Sherpas & a basecamp.
Probably about 20 sherpas would do so I could do the worlds biggest shoulder stand & climb the last few 5.11 moves to the chains.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 18, 2014 - 11:36am PT
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munge like! munge like!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 11:50am PT
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Munge like choss or granite? Or both
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MH2
climber
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Apr 18, 2014 - 11:54am PT
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Great TR, Mike. Close as I ever expect to get to Wrist Twister.
On the choss front, looks like there might recently have been a pillar here:
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 12:06pm PT
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Or was...
Andy you've done cerebrus no? That's pretty close!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 12:26pm PT
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Let's go Bruce! ;)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 18, 2014 - 12:45pm PT
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"Aid climbing = Hangdog X 1000" -Anonymous Vandal
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 01:08pm PT
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Where did you find that gem, Luke?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 01:17pm PT
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But when the game goes 15 innings, the most efficent team wins.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 01:20pm PT
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Thanks for the locks Daryl!! ;)
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 18, 2014 - 01:31pm PT
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And before the limestone sub-thread gets too deeply buried, here's another one from northwest of Clinton. Robin Barley's been doing some routes in the area recently.
Culbert and I did the front side, in shadow. Robin is doing stuff on the other side.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 01:44pm PT
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Cooool! Thanks Glenn!
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Relic
Social climber
Weenie
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Apr 18, 2014 - 09:50pm PT
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Took some towels with us to pebbles today. Dryed and cleaned off a seldom climbed line in the Darkside.
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Rolfr
Social climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Apr 19, 2014 - 12:36am PT
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Tricouni, how was the access and the quality of rock? I meant to get up there last year but never got around to it. Was that photo off Jesmond road ? Native land or crown?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Apr 19, 2014 - 12:53am PT
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Here's a couple more for Dr. B. or any other wannabee FAist.
The Leaning Tower of Fraser.
This horrific choss pile is not the pillar climbed by Glenn and Dick. This one looked even worse, if that is possible.
Probably not there any more.......
We looked, we laughed, we left!
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Apr 19, 2014 - 12:55am PT
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If the Fisher Towers are described as kitty litter, what is that?
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 19, 2014 - 01:42am PT
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Just as Tami sez, that pic is a stunner. Good light and no fright. The Relic.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 19, 2014 - 01:08pm PT
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Rolfr, access to Schism Rock is excellent, 10 minutes from the road. Robin has been doing quite a bit of route development on crags nearby and, I think, on S.R. itself.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2014 - 01:22pm PT
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Very nice pic Relic! Hey Rolf, you free next week? :) i wanna come to skaha but everyone is scared of a little moisture! Lol
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 19, 2014 - 03:30pm PT
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Thanks Hamie!!!
Really awesome photos too!
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Relic
Social climber
Weenie
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Apr 20, 2014 - 02:04am PT
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 20, 2014 - 02:27am PT
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Relic rocks it again with another great shot, but for different reasons.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Apr 20, 2014 - 10:20pm PT
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Steely eyes and blue tops may be the new norm......
[I think that this pic may have been rotated 90' clockwise.]
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Rolfr
Social climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Apr 21, 2014 - 01:14am PT
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Hi Mike, I'll be here all week after missing the sunny weather over Easter, give me a shout.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 23, 2014 - 01:01am PT
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Ain't that the Pillar Lake pillar or is it a different one?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 23, 2014 - 02:10am PT
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Oplo, I think Hamie's photo isn't the Pillar Lake pillar. I don't know where Hamie's pillar is
This is the real Pillar Lake pillar with me on top.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 23, 2014 - 02:59am PT
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2014 - 03:16am PT
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Sweet Rolf! Weather's looking pretty iffy tho! Lol
Sweet pic Glenn!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 23, 2014 - 03:23am PT
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Are u in Skaha Mike?!
Final week of training???
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MH2
climber
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Apr 23, 2014 - 11:16am PT
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Yegads, Tricouni. Crazy pillar. Dick Culbert photographer!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 23, 2014 - 12:06pm PT
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Bruce, it's conglomerate, but not very good quality.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 23, 2014 - 04:32pm PT
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Maybe Hamie's is the Savona Balanced Rock or something. Looks like till, not even lithified yet.
Going by the size of the boulder on top it would be funny if you ran into a hoodoo where you had to ice climb up a pillar of unconsolidated silt and then switch to rock shoes for a V10 problem on the capstone boulder ;)
Probably getting down would be the simplest thing imaginable. Just give it a good kick and down you go.
Getting down safely, though....
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Apr 24, 2014 - 01:00am PT
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Dru
It's in the Chilcotin somewhere. Up some creek like Relay, Tyaxe, Tyaughton or?????? Too many creeks, too many years!! It definitely has your name on it. You and BK.....
The youngsters on this thread will be interested to learn about Dick's pro when he led the other pillar. First he climbed the tree on the right, attached a sling as high as he could, threaded the rope and came back down. He then climbed the pillar without any other pro, just using the sling in the tree. Pretty cool!
Glenn I have forgotten how you guys got down. Did you place a bolt on top, or rappel down the opposite side?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 24, 2014 - 02:21am PT
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Hamie, thanks for the comment. Actually, I climbed the tree, really high, anchored to it and belayed from near the top of the tree. I don't know how much good the belay would have done from a fall high on the Pillar, but it certainly would have been "dynamic" enough, with the tree whipping around and bending and (the thought crossed my mind) maybe breaking.
We rapped off the other side. An "interesting" start to a long summer.
My diary says FA was May 28, 1962, so just a few days shy of 52 years ago....
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Apr 24, 2014 - 02:38am PT
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Glenn
That must be a typo/transposition. Couldn't possibly be 52 years ago. You must mean 25?
LOLx10.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 24, 2014 - 12:04pm PT
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I wish it was 25, but sadly....
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 24, 2014 - 12:43pm PT
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Throwback Thursday continues.... MH2 in search of some alpine granite. Sadly most of our planned route was just as bushy as this approach!
As I recall it the bush was so wet we seriously considered using a $5 bill as firestarter to get dried off. Fortunately one of us had a bunch of junk receipts, Canadian Tire money, shopping lists etc. in the wallet (yeah, carrying a full wallet to go alpine climbing) that we used instead.
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MH2
climber
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Apr 24, 2014 - 01:53pm PT
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Ah, the good old days. Several trips were needed before even getting to the rock. I was having a hard time locating the photos until I remembered to search for Hard Target.
edit
looks like the same colour ensemble as on the guidebook covers
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Apr 25, 2014 - 01:09am PT
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MH2
Is that look "steely eyes" or "glazed eyes"?
Some nice clean slabs behind. So where is it? Coquihalla somewhere?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Apr 25, 2014 - 01:13am PT
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Glenn
Your "boots" thread is intriguing. Is that a climbing trip? geology? book research? How long, where etc? Questions, questions....... No doubt classified info.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 25, 2014 - 02:06am PT
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Naw, nothing classified. Some geological colleagues and I have some $$ for a 2-year project in the Bute Inlet/Waddington area. We've been mainly working on the water for the past 10 years, so it'll be good to get back into the mountains. Maybe we will climb a few things along the way (it's happened before).
(My colleague was one of the climbers on the first all-female ascent of Annapurna, back whenever). We've been working together since 1986.
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MH2
climber
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Apr 25, 2014 - 10:21am PT
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hamie,
I am the person in the photo above that one. The eyes belong to Oplopanax, perhaps looking into a future of bushwacking to less travelled BC summits. That bump in the picture is near Needle Peak. I think it was the second pitch where the decomposing granite turned me back. The gear was not secure and the possibility of raining destruction down on the belayer seemed high.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 25, 2014 - 12:48pm PT
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Bruce,
The east side of Needle has some solid rock but also some prime dirt.
There's great rock on Ibex. Don't know why there aren't more routes.
Well, actually I do know why there aren't more routes. We went back to try something pretty close to this route and got shut down by a wet offwidth. Probably dries out later in the season though.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 25, 2014 - 03:18pm PT
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Actually this is the other side of Ibex.
Alpaca and Vicuna also have great rock.
Somebody out there has to know the story on this one. Been searching for info on attempt on this face with a decade now with no responses.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Apr 26, 2014 - 01:16am PT
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Arlene Blum is an amazing person. Her autobiography "Breaking Trail", which covers her life up to 1993, is well named, and is definitely worth a read. Great mountaineer, outstanding scientist, she led the way in the 70s and 80s. High Fives!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 26, 2014 - 01:34am PT
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Awesome stuff guys!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 26, 2014 - 02:28am PT
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Arlene Blum: I've never met her, but hope to, some day. My friend was on that Annapurna expedition. She was climbing strongly to about 7500 metres, but she froze her feet and that put her out of contention for one of the summit teams. I'm glad she wasn't on the second summit team....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2014 - 02:11pm PT
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Amazing stuff gentlemen. I quite enjoyed Andy and Dru's throwback pics.
Ibex looks rad! Thanks for those photos Bruce and Dru!
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Apr 26, 2014 - 04:03pm PT
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oh MY lordy, those there are some purdyy peeks. ya hear.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 26, 2014 - 04:10pm PT
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Wow Bruce. You have been holding out :-)
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MH2
climber
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Apr 26, 2014 - 04:25pm PT
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Yes. That place looks way better than Waddington.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Apr 26, 2014 - 06:09pm PT
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Glenn, yes she was lucky indeed. 7,500m is pretty high, and lots higher than anything on my cv.
Getting $$$ to visit the Wadd area is definitely a good gig. You will recall that Arnie Shives, Bruce McKnight and I were once paid to spend a few weeks [and make a few FAs] on the Franklin Glacier. Have fun!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 26, 2014 - 08:29pm PT
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Hamish, that was a good gig that you, Arnold, and Bruce had! 1964.
Glenn
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 26, 2014 - 10:06pm PT
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Getting $$$ to visit the Wadd area is definitely a good gig. You will recall that Arnie Shives, Bruce McKnight and I were once paid to spend a few weeks [and make a few FAs] on the Franklin Glacier. Have fun!
I don't know if the Squamish thread is the place to mention it, but I once got paid to spend a few weeks on Baffin Island. It was Hell! We were _required_ to ski certain routes. Required! Still, we did have time to sneak in a fairly cool climb...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 26, 2014 - 11:44pm PT
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The glaciers in the Anderson River are certainly nothing like the glaciers in the Bugs. For one thing, there aren't any glaciers in the Anderson River Range. Unless somebody brings some ice in in their cooler.
There is this cool quarry though.
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MH2
climber
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Apr 29, 2014 - 12:55am PT
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Your stuff is super good, brownie. Was that a cast of one? Liked it very much.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Apr 29, 2014 - 12:59am PT
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thanks MH, yea my casting agent is out of country and I haven't found much for spotters out here. A bit of string and a twig holds the shutter button down quite well, though..
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 29, 2014 - 11:02am PT
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Well it was a group effort, but we still couldn't quite get the rope up there.
Cool vid Kieran.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 29, 2014 - 11:11am PT
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Kelowna = the Boulderfields = Natural Gas, great trad route.
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MH2
climber
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Apr 29, 2014 - 11:14am PT
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Looks like the tracks are clear, though, Ryan.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 29, 2014 - 12:07pm PT
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Derailed in Hicksville?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 29, 2014 - 12:15pm PT
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I think the last train was also the first train.
Edit- free neutrino for anyone who's game, don't cheat & rap in to get it!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2014 - 04:11pm PT
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Dave- Being required to ski sounds rough! Lol
Jim- Thanks for that tale about the Lobster Hatten! Now if you had a picture to go with it, that would be priceless! Am i going to have to steal your slides and hire an aussie to scan them, so that we can finally see some of your images?? Lol
Drew- That quarry is crazy! Quite a few countertops there...
Kieran- Killer solo production bro! Jack of all trades indeed!
Ryan- Last Train To Hicksville! Sweet! Perry will be happy to see that all sparkly!
I wouldn't have left my biner though.. That would have been worth a lap on caboose for sure!
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MH2
climber
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Apr 29, 2014 - 08:36pm PT
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Big Mike - Your physical, mental, and whatever-else-there-is recovery truly inspires me. Thanks for getting back to this thread. After the life-changer that got you, it reassures me that there IS something special about climbing and the people who do it.
Or it could be collective insanity.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2014 - 09:28pm PT
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Or it could be collective insanity.
Yup! :)
Thanks Andy. I couldn't have done it without all the support and love i received. My Doctors, Physios, Family, Friends, and all the people here on supertopo (many of whom i feel lucky to consider friends) were instrumental in my recovery.
I'm pretty darn stoked right now, to be working on a goal which i made years before my injury!!! I leave for Cali thursday morning!!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2014 - 09:46pm PT
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Good to know! Thanks Jim!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2014 - 10:55pm PT
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We got out today with out friends Phil and Chelsea for Sandra's birthday. I got to hang out with them a couple weeks ago too, but never got around to posting photos so here they are.
Phil and Chels were running behind that day, and i didn't really wanna wait, so i headed up to the bluffs to try and find a rope solo which would be beneficial for my jugging technique.
I wandered up to Pixie Corner with digital dexterity in mind, but after looking at it for a minute, i ran into these two austrian dudes who had just finished pixie corner.
They started asking me all kinds of questions and told me they were only here for the day and had a grand total of 4 cams on them..
I offered to climb with them since i didn't have a partner, and we sauntered off towards burgers and fries.
When we got there it was quite busy so we went down to bilbo baggins which i ran a rope up for them.
Both their names were Phil
Yes that's beer can Al soloing on the left.
Phil and Chels showed up just as the austrians had enough and rushed off to hike the chief b4 dark.
Phil leading Bilbo Baggins 5.7
Chelsea belays Phil with the chief hiding in the trees.
I got bored and decided to rope solo this little 5.6 free, in my approach shoes.
Phil Tifo photo
Yes i forgot to wear my helmet. Yes grigri's suck for free self belays.. Lol
Phil jumped on this little 5.7 number after.
After we went over to the Libya Sucks area and i showed Phil and Chelsea the new Jim.s/Peder.o
contributions.
Phil on (anyone know the names?) the left 5.7.
It's pretty barren down there since hydro did their trim.. It's gonna be a desert this summer.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Big Mike is in the air as I write this, on an Alaska Airlines 737 from Seattle to Sacretomato. We took him in yesterday afternoon, got him partying with Steve, Mimi, & Wayno, and somehow still managed to get up at 05:00 and get him to the airport.
Norwegian's going to meet him at the other end and (this was theory put forth last night) drive directly to the Leap to grab some pitches before the sun sets. Then onward to do battle with the Nose of El Cap.
Whoo hoo! Should be some good photos and tall tales coming to this thread in the next two weeks.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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We were watching the shenanigans on The Last Train To Hicksville during SAR HETS training a week ago. That thing looks cleaner now than when I scrubbed it for the FA!
Nice work.
As background, the route is named after an album by Dan Hicks and his Hot Licks.
Being next to Caboose and in keeping with naming routes after tunes and albums, it made sense.
I originally tried to hook and nail it without bolts to prepare for an ascent of the PO.
Bailed, came back years later, et voila.
Chuffing a fatty and listening to the album is quite a bit easier than doing the route.
A little background on Dan and the album
http://www.danhicks.net/lasttrain.htm
Here's a Dan Hicks favourite off another album.
http://youtu.be/j1syKkHq7iE
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Hey thanks for posting Chief!
That's funny u were creeping on us while we dogged the hell outta that thing!!
So what kind of beast were you when u did that thing?? I've done a few other routes of yours at the same grade & this thing is a whole other level.
Flingus cling is a good example & feels like a warmup in comparison lol!
There is a move between the 2nd & 3rd bolt on last train that neither Josh or myself could do or even envision & another at the 2nd to last bolt that verified we were in over our heads??!
I'm sure conditions would help & that afternoon sun doesn't make this thing any easier but damn is it cryptic. Great vision, finger strength & footwork too apparently :-)
I'll be back next winter.
Oh cool backstory on the name too, classic stuff!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Ryan,
No creeping, Ray Charles could have seen the show on the scrubbed stripe.
I vaguely recall a hard pull getting to the stepped ramp then an abundance of worthless pockmarks on the finishing bulge.
At the time it seemed hard but I never liked having a rating down graded and so called it 12a-b.
It'll be interesting to see if there's any consensus now that it's cleaned up and seeing some traffic.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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No creeping, Ray Charles could have seen the show on the scrubbed stripe
Haha yeah you are probably right. Where do u come up with these anecdotes anyways??! They crack me up every time!
Looking forward to sicking some of the local granite tech masters on this one soon to see what they have to say.
Btw I'm not the one who scrubbed/rebolted it. Kieran's roommate Ty can be thanked for the scrub & whoever upgraded the bristlers remains a mystery. A worthy retro effort for sure, we need more technical classics like this that aren't full on featureless slabs.
Can anyone think of any other routes of this caliber that could use a Reno scrub??
I'm guessing LTTH has not seen a lot of ascents in the past 10-15 but was it repeated much back when u first did it Chief??
At the time it seemed hard but I never liked having a rating down graded and so called it 12a-b.
On that note I propose the grade of 11d for Flingus (Jk :-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2014 - 01:38am PT
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Whoo hoo! Should be some good photos and tall tales coming to this thread in the next two weeks.
Can i post cali pics on here? Lol
see Going back to Cali! Thread Dave!
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Can't you at least put some of those copper or nickle strips used to keep moss off house roofs along the top of those dripping mossfests up there?
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MH2
climber
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It was a frustrating evening trying to figure out why Invertigo sounded familiar but was not in any recent guide. Finally this morning I found the '92 guide. All 3 routes at left lower Malemute that go up to a roof and out right should be good. We did at least one of them but not Invertigo.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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I don't think those strips do any good, although there's immaculately clean whiteness below some of the hydro towers that seems to have to do with metal ions.
JH got much the same effect with his power washer, and probably left the underlying crystals sharp or sharper than a wire brush would have
that said I wondered in the past about a bag of powdered zinc sulfate moss killer and what it would do if left on top of a cliff over the winter...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nathan in bondage
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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you gotta have the sixth sense of Ray charles to figure out the crystals on that finishing slab!
Like I could ever get to the finishing slab. That move half-way up where you lever your entire bodyweight off a spike digging into your calf muscle was like God telling me it was time to take up golf.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2014 - 01:42am PT
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Cool pic Ryan! Nice work Nathan!!
Dave- that description doesn't make it sound fun!! Lol
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Time to start thinking about summer in the alpine...
This little crag is outside Pemberton, just south of the Miller? Creek hydro project. Probably a two hour approach from the road to the intake. Talk to Innergex to get access.
As far as I know, totally untouched... looks like some nice buttress lines. Let me know if you check it out.
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MH2
climber
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good food for thought
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2014 - 01:05pm PT
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Ooooooooooooohhhh!! Dru puts up the carrot! Me want! Lol
That looks rad! Feel like a trip up to the sea to sky this summer?? ;)
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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BTW, Meares island has just had a little sprucing up. Nothing as spectacular as the old growth cull of the old days but it should be enough to attract some more action on the handful of mega classics there. Getting up is easy now (no dirty 5.8 solo with a pack on anymore) and its now a nicely cultured garden up there.
Thanks
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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May 10, 2014 - 04:06pm PT
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re: scrubbing/scrubbers
This:
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 11, 2014 - 02:17am PT
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$4
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 11, 2014 - 02:35am PT
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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May 11, 2014 - 02:43am PT
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The belayer is about to yank the other guy's dentures out in the above pic?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2014 - 04:24am PT
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Pet wall motherfvckers!!! Oh ya... Drunk dial!! Lol
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 11, 2014 - 09:41am PT
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It's an old sport climbing trick Todd. The less teeth you have, the less you weigh, the more you send. Works best with a grigri.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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May 11, 2014 - 12:05pm PT
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Perry, didn't I belay you on your send of "Last train to Hicksville" around 1990 or was it another face climb down there?
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MH2
climber
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May 11, 2014 - 02:37pm PT
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Nice rope action, Ryan.
Another threat to your teeth on that climb.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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May 12, 2014 - 10:59am PT
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Although the $4 red-handled wire brush is great, and soooo much better than those crappy 99 cent store wooden brushes that you had to keep sawing the end off as the wires fell out,
"the yellow" (3rd from left in image above)
Is also desirable, because it is wider and hence cleans slabs much faster than the narrow magic red.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2014 - 11:03am PT
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Any leads on where to purchase an item like that Dru?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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May 12, 2014 - 12:35pm PT
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I get them at the hardware store...
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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May 12, 2014 - 07:47pm PT
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I made this one myself with an articulated handle. Two arms are stronger that one wrist and I used to have a foot strap on it so as to take advantage of leg strength. Not for nooks and crannies but it served me well.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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May 12, 2014 - 08:00pm PT
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I remember thinking that if it would take a rake and shovel to scrub it was probably not worth cleaning anyhow.
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Sanskara
climber
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May 12, 2014 - 08:01pm PT
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From my years spent as a painting contractor I say go a high end paint store. Mom and pop and big box stores will have wire brushes but the specialty paint store for contractors will have the best wire brushes.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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May 12, 2014 - 08:31pm PT
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Hotdog, where's the pull cord for that thing?
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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May 12, 2014 - 08:44pm PT
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I remember thinking that if it would take a rake and shovel to scrub it was probably not worth cleaning anyhow
Spending a whole day scrubbing with a little brush was hard on the wrist for me, this big brush was perfect for the lichen (not moss) that's indigenous to Skaha. On the faces it took a tremendous amount of scrubbing with the hand brush to remove it. Then I started using this tool and it took 1/10th of the time and effort and no sore wrists. Necessity is the mother of invention.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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May 12, 2014 - 09:37pm PT
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I'd like to see a video of this leaf blower contraption that was used to clean off the entire Commonwealth Cliff of it's moss.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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May 12, 2014 - 09:51pm PT
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I get the pressure washer but how do they get the water up there?
Didn't JH tote rain barrels to the top of the crag or something?
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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May 12, 2014 - 10:28pm PT
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Road access seems pretty much vital, other than long lining with a helicopter, which I'm surprised Dean never thought of in Skaha.
Dean never used a pressure washer but he did utilize a helicopter to fly up to the Morning Glory wall once. There were a bunch of us up there already and it was like some rock star celebrity was arriving as the helicopter landed. The other climbers were perplexed as to what was going on and who this person was.
He had a bum knee at the time and nothing was going to stop him from finishing "Hotel India" at the Euphorium.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2014 - 12:05am PT
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Guess who's back baby!!
I love this deck!!!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2014 - 12:31am PT
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Deep fried oreos??? !!!!
Super rad story Harry!! Thanks!
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MH2
climber
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May 18, 2014 - 01:03am PT
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Go well with vodka, which is pretty safe around fire!
I dig the photos. Welcome back, Mike.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 18, 2014 - 01:11am PT
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This thread again!!?!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2014 - 03:53am PT
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Thanks Andy! When are we going climbing?? Let's make it happen!
You know it Ryan! Let's do this!! I wanna shoot some climbing this summer!!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2014 - 04:21pm PT
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anyone climbing today?? looks dry?
from my new point and shoot last night
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 23, 2014 - 09:33pm PT
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MH2
climber
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May 23, 2014 - 09:54pm PT
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Airtime. Good one, Ryan.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2014 - 08:26pm PT
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Nice pic ryan!
We're at the bluffs again.. The car park is full... But not one party at crag x!
Thank you to whomever is scrubbing crag x!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2014 - 09:06pm PT
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Nope, that's my friend Heather. :) she's on baby lizard ... Lol
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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May 24, 2014 - 11:40pm PT
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That sure as hell looked like Centre Street and not Baby Lizard to me!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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May 25, 2014 - 01:57am PT
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I was just checking something on mtnproj and a photo of Pipeline came up, so I checked it out.
I know I'd heard the story before on ST but DAMN, Grug gets the FFA solo???!!!
How is that thing anyway?
Striking from a distance, fo sho.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2014 - 02:30am PT
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Jefe! Lol! So i spoke with Grug about this at Facelift. He said that Perry Beckham had pointed it out and told him of it's legendary first ascent with 5 and 6+ inch sections of pipe used for aid.
Greg said he didn't think there was any way he could fall out of something he could get so much of his body into, and the scariest part was passing the old fixed pipes!! (which incidentally might be the first recorded use of tube chocks.)
Perry supposedly suggested the name Pipeloads since renaming aid climbs when freed was somewhat in fashion at the time, but it never stuck.
The tale of the Pipeline is steeped in awesomeness and the climb these days is nothing less. It still repels many suitors who are not ready to shove themselves in the maw. I don't have any pictures, but i might know a few guys who might be interested in a rematch with some more training so i'll keep ya posted. If you search ye shall find
Jeremy- Thanks! You have my draw? Which one? I'll shoot ya a pm.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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May 25, 2014 - 11:41am PT
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Centre street is the crack to the right, you can see it jog right up high again to the ledge where it gets thin. Baby Lizard keeps going left.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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May 25, 2014 - 03:44pm PT
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Huh, you're right. I thought Baby Lizard was Piece of Pie and vice versa.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2014 - 06:43pm PT
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Yes she is indeed on Baby Lizard 10a
Heather trying to get a piece in
Kyle showed up and took my camera for a little solo.
Kyle Koroll Photo
Afterwards Heather wanted to go look at Talking Holds
Kyle racking up.
He led it in his approach shoes.. lol
Getting laid out on Talking Holds 10a
Kyhber says; "you dawgs is crazy!" lol
The call of SuperValue 10c was too loud to resist as we passed
Kyle floated it.. it's not easy.. lol
I flailed on it.. the undercling moves were so close to my feet and gravity did it's evil deed.
What a beauty pitch!
it was great to get a few pitches in despite the rain in the morning!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2014 - 11:53pm PT
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evening bump...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2014 - 11:43pm PT
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Anyone climb today?
I climbed some ladders..
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 28, 2014 - 12:22am PT
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Pet wall. My fings hurt.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2014 - 12:28am PT
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Nice. Pics? Lol
That's why they call them fingers! Lookit em fing!! Homer Simpson.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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May 28, 2014 - 01:51pm PT
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Last thing I climbed was on Sunday before the rain started.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Big Mike on?!?!?!?!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2014 - 11:25pm PT
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I know! I know! Lol
Nice Dru! I see your crag is getting quite the upgrade lately!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2014 - 03:05pm PT
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Saturday me and Phil did Slab Alley. I don't have all the photos done yet but i just couldn't wait to post this one.
Yours truly leading out on the amazing 65m p5 of Slab alley.
Phil Tifo Photo. Hurtin Stitch.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Yours truly leading out on the amazing 65m p5 of Slab alley.
That was my first ever lead. On my first ever rock climb.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2014 - 04:12pm PT
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Lol Tami!
Dave did you stop at the crack and build a gear anchor then?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dave did you stop at the crack and build a gear anchor then?
Yeah, I set a couple of ice screws in the glacier.
Actually, I have no idea what I did about anchors. This was the Hammer-and-Piton era,
so if I did set an anchor it would have been either a pin or a sling on a tree. If there was a tree.
All I remember is that I led the top two or three pitches and that they were really easy.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2014 - 06:17pm PT
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There's a bush there.. So that was probably it. Yes rather easy, but the pro keeps it exciting!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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big grin for y'all's posts above.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Bruce, did you leave them fixed on some 5.8+ at Index?
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Did you say you were missing a Big Fro?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2014 - 12:01am PT
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Bruce- that was Kieran and Nathan. I'll follow up on it for ya
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Bruce,
Some big bros were abandoned in my backyard i'm thinking last august. Send me am email to arrange safe return.
Cheers,
ryanD
Edit- Why do you want them back??
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Edit- Why do you want them back??
Maybe he's fixing to prove Bruce Fairley right after all these years and make the FWA of Memorial Pillar
cue MH2 pic of the offwidth with Max's pipes still in place...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Like beetle juice?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Hey Ryan is that a Lee Valley crack weeder? I got one of those too but I f*#ked up bolting it to the head of the pole. Now it wobbles.
Sad face.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Yessir, not sure if it's Lee valley but its definitely gonna weed some cracks!
On sale at Rona for $3 with $1 replacement brushes. Looking forward to testing it out.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2014 - 12:15am PT
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Heather and I got out tonight.
Any guesses?
No one has identified Ryan's image from sunday yet either?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Calculus dirrrrrrrect.
Anybody climb that corner on the right?? Looks like a good place to test out my new crack weeder.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2014 - 07:20am PT
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Oh man... It's too early!
Lol
Ryan i was looking at that corner last night. Looks like a shadow type stemming corner. It's pretty darn dirty so i doubt it's been sent.
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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I've noticed that Squamish climbers obsess over cleaning tools the way others do about cams and hammers. Weird. Any of you guys want to take a wack at my bathroom, you're welcome to it.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2014 - 11:14am PT
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We were watching you guys from the Casino Deck. It looked like a bunch of surveyors had lost control of their flagging tape! I recommend you soak your rope in a bucket of bleach for a day or two
Lol.. Oh you liked my big stacks at the crux pitch gear belay?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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More scrub porn for chill & Kakapo
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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bump
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Yeah! Canadian brush porn!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2014 - 08:26am PT
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Lol! Tom you have to let me know when ur coming up this year! We need to rope up!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Lol! Tom you have to let me know when ur coming up this year! We need to rope up!
I think he's got a bit of a thing about roping up with Canadians now. Totally unreasonable. Just because I almost killed him when he tied on with me is no reason to believe that all Canadians will try to kill him.
Couple of shots from this weekend. The view from The Outpost.
Those are from the base. View is way better from higher up.
Anybody know about the rope hanging on the big headwall at the right end? That thing looks amazing.
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adikted
Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
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Headed to Squamish this coming Sunday for a while...stoke is high...first trip to Canada..any advice??
G
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Climb everything adikted!
What kind of climbing do you want to do? Post up what u like & I'm sure you'll get lots of sandbag recommends here.
If I was on vacation in Squamish my day would look like this:
Multi pitch early
Go eat lunch & hang out, either Kozo sushi or Locavore food truck
Then- Depending on time then do any or all of these: get some shade & go cragging at murrin or go bouldering or if u want more sun go to the lake.
Have fun!
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Had a shot at this on the weekend...anyone else done it?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Had a shot at this on the weekend...anyone else done it?
I'm not sure. A lot of those Squamish climbs look the same. Is that Diedre you're headed for? Or Slab Alley? Really hard to tell from the picture.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Holy f*#kin' shorts over polypro.
How was the alder covered road Fish Boy?
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Jun 10, 2014 - 09:48am PT
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That's lycra.
About 15 kilometers of the road was overgrown....constant scraping on the car. A few kilometers were quite bad, numerous forearm sized branches being pushed out of the way. You have to not care about your paint. I have a silver car and think I can cut most of the scratches away though. Several sections were a bit tricky and involved some chainsaw action to make modifications to the road with trees....i was in a rav 4 though, anything bigger would be fine. The water bars get big in spots, but if ya know how to drive em....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2014 - 06:56pm PT
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Headed to Squamish this coming Sunday for a while...stoke is high...first trip to Canada..any advice??
Climb all the classics. Squamish Buttress, Ultimate Everything, Angel's Crest. Then step it up and hit up the grand wall. If you're not quite there yet, go do peasants route, apron strings and exasperator.
Most areas are worth a visit. 1 star climbs here are better than some 5 star climbs elsewhere.
Looks like fun Nick! You finally got up there eh?
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MH2
climber
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Jun 10, 2014 - 07:06pm PT
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Ryan, Big Mike, and other locals can be a great help, not only in recommending great climbs but in recommending equally great climbs that won't have other climbers above and below you. Not that there is any problem, but try to be thoughtful if you need to pass parties or they want to pass you.
Has anyone heard the Brit explanation of the star rating system that begins, "One star pretty much means you should drop everything else and go climb it?"
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2014 - 04:37pm PT
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What is Sandra on?
Ryan can't play ;) (cause he was there..)
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 11, 2014 - 05:35pm PT
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Right side of Pink Kliff
Environmentally Friendly
Pat on the Back, Payan route, climbs the same lower crack for 10 feet before stepping left and up the face - really fun route for the grade
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 11, 2014 - 08:47pm PT
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Sandra's on crack!!!!!
(Say hi to her for us big guy.)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2014 - 09:18pm PT
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Nice Dru! Pat on the back is fun. We did it last time were there.
Ya she is Dave! This was her first tree anchor. She says hi too!
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alina
Trad climber
CA
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Jun 12, 2014 - 07:44am PT
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Fun thread. Getting me stoked, as I'll be heading to Vancouver on Monday for a conference.
It looks like I'm getting lucky with the weather:
My question is: how fast do things dry out? What can I get on Tuesday that won't be seeping?
i'll also have some half-days, so suggestions for routes I can do in the morning and do conference in the afternoon are also welcome.
I'm meeting up a local, so I'm sure I'll be well taken care of. But I'd love to hear route recommendations. Right now The Grand Wall on The Chief is the only thing on the list. I'm breaking into easy 11 and he will be the rope gun. Thoughts? Thanks!
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MH2
climber
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Jun 12, 2014 - 08:14am PT
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As an introduction to the area, the Upper Malemute dries fast (exposed to wind and sun and the top slopes backwards so there isn't much drainage). If the cracks on Upper Malemute are still wet, other cracks are probably not dry, either.
Hike in to the base of the Grand Wall and look up. After rain there is often wetness above Perry's Lieback which makes the route more exciting but not harder. Traffic keeps holds free of grunge.
Go up to the Solarium and do Sunblessed. Go with someone who knows how to get there. Sunblessed is a great 3 pitch route in a fine position and dries as quickly as anything else.
The Upper Apron gets sun early. Some sparsely bolted friction routes up there are sure to be dry if anything is.
Go to the Smoke Bluffs if weather is iffy or you don't have a lot of time.
edit:
It isn't actually raining now. In West Vancouver, at least. If things don't get too wet, they won't need to dry out.
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alina
Trad climber
CA
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Jun 12, 2014 - 11:21am PT
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Thanks for the recommendations, MH2.
Sunblessed looks sick. As does Overly Hanging Out and Crescent Crack on Malamute.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 11:48am PT
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Hi Alina!
Great suggestions from Andy. Might i also suggest Grub Street at the malemute??
For your mornings, the smoke bluffs will certainly be a good bet. I suggest Center Street at crag x, Supervalue just around the corner, then Kangaroo corner which is on your way to penny lane where you should do Climb and Punishment and Partners in Crime (the bottom might be a little wet).
Later in the week you should hit up the ultra classic Angel's Crest. Check out www.squamishclimbing.com as there are quite a few newer routes you might enjoy.
I would suggest milk run too, but it's north facing so most likely wet at the moment.
The bulletheads dry quickly too. Bullethead east is a classic that has just received a beauty scrub from Harry a couple years ago. Rainy day dream away is absolutely striking you will be drawn to it. Pitch in time is fun to at 10b. 10d for the last 5m.
Manana looks awesome though i've never had the opportunity to enjoy it, and Xenolith dance is rad if you like slab. Take slot machine to get there. Perfect warm up.
Theres tons of fun moderate stuff too but i kept my recco's above 5.10 to keep with your grade preference.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 12:07pm PT
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One more thing. Check out the Squaw! Birds of Prey is a classic and great game should be challenging enough for you!! If not, Right Wing should kick your a$$!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 12:16pm PT
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It seems like it doesn't rain up here nearly as much as it used to!
Things usually dry quite quickly when they are exposed to the sun and wind!
Also a nice thing about squamish is the rock is usually pretty damn solid!
Lol!
VVVVVVVV
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 12, 2014 - 12:18pm PT
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I've been looking at these Squamish pics for years now...the faces beside those splitters look sooooo smooth, how can you possibly get hurt falling?.??
It's a deathtrap, man. Those faces are full of razor-sharp crystals, and dozens of climbers die every year from blood loss after even short falls.
But are the cracks slimy from perpetual rain? Does the rock ever dry out?
Those cracks are worse than you can imagine. Not just with water and mud, but they're full of slugs, and dozens of varieties of stinging, biting insects, to say nothing of aquatic snakes like water moccasins. And the cracks never dry out. Never!
Whatever you do, don't go there. The climbing sucks, the locals are unfriendly, and you're gonna die.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 12:30pm PT
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Lol.. We've excummunicated him to Seattle.. He's Washington's problem now! Lol
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 12:44pm PT
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Well, you need certification to guide here, which is something i do not posess. But i wouldn't mind hooking up with a fellow climber. As long as beers and dinner are included!
No seriously i have had some major hospitality shown to me lately and would love to return the favour.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 01:12pm PT
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Lol! I need to talk to uncle Peter and ask him if he can get Evolv to build me a pair of Astroman's that will fit me!! My ankles are a bloody mess from the wide stuff!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 01:22pm PT
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Next time you see him SB pull out a bag of cheesies! He'll come running.. Lol of course you'll have to come north to get them!
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 12, 2014 - 01:24pm PT
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Tape on the ankles - if I learned one thing on our Pipeline attempt last year, it's that I can't take the pain of my ankle grinding up the rock.
Unfortunately, I'm coming back from a broken hand at the moment, so haven't been able to climb anything recently. Still a couple weeks to go.
I have, however, been trying to get in shape for the long list of wyde, groovy, and grovelly climbs that I hope to struggle my way up this season. Stomping up the Grouse Grind every other day.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 01:27pm PT
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Ya.. It's just not as good as leather.. Nate we should hook up. We could toprope some slabs!
Oh wait.. You probably can't really belay hey?
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 12, 2014 - 02:07pm PT
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Mike, I've been trying to con myself into something along those lines, cause I want to climb really really bad, but I just can't justify it. Once my splint comes off, it's supposed to be another three weeks till I'm fully healed, but I'm going to try and start doing some mellower stuff before then.
Might go talk to a physio and see what the best thing to do is. I'd still like to come hang out though if the weather cooperates.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 02:42pm PT
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Nice Nate! Look forward to it!
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alina
Trad climber
CA
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Jun 12, 2014 - 03:04pm PT
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Thanks for the recs! I'll climb 10s -- don't want to hang dog everything I get on!
PS: tape socks to your ankles if you don't have a high top that works for you foot. I've also done tape then socks+tape over. I like wide. And I did a lot of struggling before I got my pair of TC Pros.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 03:18pm PT
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I want tcpros so bad but they only make a 46 and my mythos are a 47.5!!
Curse of the bigfoot!!
Hmm i'd have to wear socks in my shoes.. I'll try it.
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alina
Trad climber
CA
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Jun 12, 2014 - 03:39pm PT
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47.5... wow =P
You are ten shoe sizes bigger than me.
I have the opposite problem: it's very hard to find TC Pros in 37.5 -- and never on sale.
Most awesome shoes are not made in a smaller, (always pink) women's version. And the smallest men's size is usually 39.
I've been looking to buy a pair of La Sportiva Gandas in 37.5.. yeah, good luck with that.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 12, 2014 - 03:39pm PT
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Mike you should buy some of these from Fluevog and then get a cobbler to put a sticky rubber sole on them.
Perfect for wide cracks. Leather all the way to the knee!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 03:47pm PT
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Alina- curse of the big and small! lol
Dru- Looks good! those will do the trick for sure! lol
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crøtch
climber
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Jun 12, 2014 - 04:50pm PT
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Can Rainy Day Dream Away be linked into pitches 2-4 of Bulletheads East instead of using the 5.9 starting pitch?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 05:02pm PT
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I think so. It ends at bullethead ledge but it's been awhile since i've been up there.
The 5.9 pitch is interesting though and gives you a close look at p1 of rainy day woman which looks amazing!
You would have to walk left on bullethead ledge for a bit to get to p2.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 07:55pm PT
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Ok that was kinda confusing.. The last sentence was meant to reference the dream away bullethead east link up...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 12, 2014 - 08:06pm PT
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You can do it pretty easily crotch, probably better climbing but as Mike says way less direct. Check out "the black book" above RDDA on your way over to bullethead east.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 08:25pm PT
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Ok. Too much talking and not enuf pixs.
This one's easy pickings.
I still can't believe no one got fissuremans friend...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 12, 2014 - 09:33pm PT
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Swiss Cheese.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 09:43pm PT
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Yes it is!! Speaking of nordic the bolts there are starting to look a little suspect.... Maybe that could be my reno project...
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DBlack
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 13, 2014 - 07:28pm PT
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Hey has anyone ever climbed/attempted the sw face of St. Marks? Looks like a good little cliff...?
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Jun 14, 2014 - 12:00pm PT
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Hey whats the weather been like over in Squamish this week? A buddy and I have wall plans there but the forecast has been rather questionable. Looking for firsthand info, How wet has it been?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 14, 2014 - 12:46pm PT
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It looks dry enough from here...
Look out for the batch of bad Chinese bolts that rot from the inside out and had been know to fAil from a powerful sneeze plus body weight.
If you die up there I'm rapping in to booty your offset aliens.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2014 - 12:54pm PT
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How wet does it look??
I haven't been down here since weds but it didn't rain very much in whistler and i'm assuming it's the same here based on how dry it is. It's supposed to thundershower again later
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2014 - 01:32pm PT
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Lol.. Lunch at save on bruce!
Looks dry on the pillar!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2014 - 02:08pm PT
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Pretty dry in the woods too..
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Jun 14, 2014 - 03:50pm PT
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Kid, if I die up there you can have all my gear, just don't forget to wash the blood off.
Nice pics mike, man all that rock to be had. Looks like you guys have too much fun out there, I should move off the island....
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 14, 2014 - 03:56pm PT
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Photo bombing at its finest.
Hey Tami & Chief!
Really enjoyed the article in mountain life. Pick up a copy everyone if u haven't yet.
Hopefully(fings crossed) u become a reg there Tami ;-)
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MH2
climber
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Jun 14, 2014 - 06:17pm PT
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Lively photos, Mike. Much happening.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 17, 2014 - 10:35am PT
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Does anyone know who did the 2nd of "up from the skies"?
Eric and Daryl(I think) did the first. Dave and Perry did the third.
Has any other super cropo dusters been up there?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 17, 2014 - 10:49am PT
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Hey has anyone ever climbed/attempted the sw face of St. Marks? Looks like a good little cliff...?
"Last unclimbed summit on the north shore" might be that pinnacle at the Y in the gully, but the rock is amazingly fractured, as you can see from the scree cone and numerous rockfall scars...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 17, 2014 - 11:57am PT
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Speaking of bad rock, here's a three-year before and after from The Castle area of Marble Canyon
2011:
2014:
It's not quite an XRez gigapan but I try...
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jun 17, 2014 - 02:03pm PT
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Luke,
If Dave and I didn't do the second of UFTS, then Scott Flavelle definitely did.
Not sure who would have been with him though if he did.
I'll ask him.
Pretty impressive FA with hexes and bongs (both kinds).
Eric and Daryl were ahead of their time and all by themselves.
PB
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crøtch
climber
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Jun 17, 2014 - 02:15pm PT
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Thanks, Big Mike and RyanD. I've done the regular 5.9 start which was fun and interesting, but thought it would make a nice link up to take RDDA to the ledge, wander left a bit, and continue up more finger cracks. I'll have to check out the Black Book next time I'm up there. Thanks for the tip RyanD.
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DBlack
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 17, 2014 - 09:16pm PT
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Wow that does not look great! Too bad...
Is most stuff in Squamish dry right now? Hope to come up this week. :)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 17, 2014 - 10:11pm PT
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NP crotch, there's actually another crack above black book even. I've never done it or met anyone who has but maybe someone here knows something.
It's called vertical smile??
Anybody??
It looks quite striking from the ground.
Would be reasonable to think that if it was climbable(not filthy) that u could do RDDA into the black book into vertical smile for a(nother) nice bullethead link up. I don't have a view of the formation with me but I think this seems reasonable?
Edit- thanks for the heads up Bruce.
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MH2
climber
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Jun 17, 2014 - 11:10pm PT
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I think the crack most directly above Black Book is the rightmost of the 3 ways to do Bulletheads East pitch 3. It has a thin hard-to-protect start but the rest is good. Vertical Smile is a mystery.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 18, 2014 - 06:26am PT
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BK - thanks for waiting for us to do the geotech assessment on those cutblocks before stirring up the sh#t storm ;)
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jun 18, 2014 - 11:45am PT
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^^
yup its hard to tell how busy they are, you cant park in their lot for more than 3 hours yet its always full.
The chief trails are insanely busy and I dont seem to see a lot people walking the highway after downloading... so are they capturing that grouse grind crowd or are they just hiking the chief?
So far it does seem pretty successful and it really hasnt impacted me other than thinking of these amazing sky pilot times that are 1.5 hrs gondola top to summit....thats an after work jaunt hahaha
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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Jun 18, 2014 - 02:56pm PT
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I also wonder where the development of the gondola will go. Currently its very lame in terms of trails. The one trail they have made takes about 5 minutes to walk (assuming the hordes of asian tourists aren't in your way). Everyone I saw a few weekends ago seemed to be wearing hundreds of $$ of tech gear purchased from mec so that they could stroll around a path which was more or less the equivalent of walking around a garden.
The backcountry stuff meanwhile is evidently way more challenging, and they dont even seem to want to mention its existence on the map (which is a super lame cartoon).
And $35 is a bit steep, tho its only 10 if you hike up there.
Curious to see whats going to happen here. This is a photo i got of howe sound and chief backside:
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 18, 2014 - 03:01pm PT
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^^^
Lol
Yeah saw my friends going for a hike to get some exercise after they got down from the gondy the other day. I lolololol'ed at them pretty good.
But seriously I hear the cragging up there is the best in the corridor so everyone should go there every time they go climbing. Apparently the rock is far superior to anything in the valley, particularly the Chief & Murrin. So if u aren't up there you are missing out on the next golden age of Squamish climbing but try & keep it on the down low mmmkay?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 18, 2014 - 03:37pm PT
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This is clearly the spur that's been needed for years for people to free the old north face of Ledge aid route, free the south face of Ledge aid route, and climb that amazing looking offwidth that turns into an enclosed shaft and vanishes into the mountain on the SE pillar of Mt Sheer
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 18, 2014 - 08:30pm PT
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Offwidth? Where? Pictures?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 18, 2014 - 11:11pm PT
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Sorry Tami my sarcasm was lost on you.
Pretty sure we share similar sentiments on the whole shebang.
C ya in the singles line ;-)
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 19, 2014 - 09:07am PT
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Clearly Barley hanging on a dirty rope is the only thing that should be in the background of any wedding pics. Sounds like a great idea actually. I wonder if he's booked for September yet?
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jun 19, 2014 - 10:45am PT
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The STSG is very much in start up mode, working out kinks and developing offerings.
Lots of challenges and they're both way behind and too far ahead of themselves in many areas.
I wheezed up the trail a couple weeks ago to check things out, have a beverage, take in the views and download; impressive.
A mountain bike trail system is in the works, probably not on line before 2016.
Attendance is weather dependent.
I've heard upwards of 2500 a day when it's nice out and a lot quieter in the clag.
Apparently 1000 download tickets in a day for those who walked up and it's evident on the backside start and Upper Shannon Falls Trail (now named Sea to Summit) and will undoubtedly evolve into a freak show….The Gondi Grind?
Squamish SAR has had a number of calls related to the gondola including a HETS extraction, all primarily on the Sea to Summit trail and it's expected that call volume will go up with the increasing numbers venturing up into the Sky Pilot Basin.
It's easy to find things to criticize about the STSG, after all it's operated by fallible human beings mired in value conflicts and writhing on the horns of ethical dilemmas in the pursuit of profit.
Who are they being held accountable to?
To the best of my knowledge, there is no comprehensive land use strategy based on informed and collaborative dialogue between key stakeholders and this should be an obligation and priority we all hold the Crown agencies and STSG to.
If we get it right, the Sky Pilot Basin will evolve into a world class recreation area and benefit the Squamish lifestyle and economy; that's why I supported it.
The alternative however, is a garish and embarrassing boondoggle.
I think we should be concerned about the proposed logging and ensure that visual impacts are mitigated as best as possible and at the same time recognize the whole basin's been logged and could showcase progressive and sustainable silviculture practices.
Likewise with the LNG proposal for the former Woodfibre site.
Seems a shame to build a gondola for a view of either heavy handed logging or a misplaced LNG plant at odds with the recovery of Howe Sound and with a marginal connection to the local economy.
Back to cragging, slagging and posing down.
PB
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jun 19, 2014 - 11:10am PT
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One of the things that impressed me during my three months in the South Tirol was the seemingly peaceful coexistence between the skiing, climbing, logging, agriculture and tourism sectors.
It appeared they were all accepted as vital elements in a varied and sustainable "mountain economy".
Take care of some livestock, run a groomer or lift, do a little selective logging, pull down at the crags, guide an alpine route, hike a via ferrata, maybe some pasta and a sip of grappa at a refugio and then home to the family.
What a concept.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jun 19, 2014 - 11:35am PT
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bk,
Agreed.
They should be drawing on alternative energy from a small turbine in the creek.
If we can do it to the Ashlu and Mamquam, it should work up there.
PB
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 19, 2014 - 12:36pm PT
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City of Mission is on a big push to develop for-profit and not-for-profit recreation in their city-owned Tree Farm License, everything from trials bike trails to campsites to climbing crags.
If Mission can do it, and marry recreation to sustainable forestry, why can't Squampton?
http://www.mission.ca/forestry/stavewest/
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 19, 2014 - 05:48pm PT
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Mission.
Maple Ridge has a couple adjacent woodlots, and the Research Forest, but no TFL.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jun 19, 2014 - 07:17pm PT
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Just realized I've been schwambazelled into egregious thread drift like a Cutty to a Croc.
Not sure Big Mike would qualify rants about the gondola as On Topic.
I did recently get a guided tour of Woodstock by The Bear himself.
Prodigious effort and outstanding little crag.
Safe and aesthetic haven for aging crag rats.
Way to go Peder!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 19, 2014 - 07:47pm PT
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Is Woodstock the new zone south of Quercus Perry??
Mayor Moorhead was pretty happy about it the other day when I saw him heading up there to work on the murrin loop trail.
He said steep, pumpy 5.10s on great rock that are nice & clean & well equipped for the standard bolt clipping poofter. Looking forward to checking them out.
Big Mike approves of increasing the post count to this thread by any means necessary so long as it's civil.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Jun 19, 2014 - 10:13pm PT
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It even looks a bit like a Pet wall for aging hippie has beens!
Sounds like time to get off the skis and drive up!
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Relic
Social climber
Weenie
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Jun 20, 2014 - 12:53am PT
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a Pet wall for aging hippie has beens!
Sign me the fook up!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 20, 2014 - 07:41am PT
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a Pet wall for aging hippie has beens!
Ain't nobody here more qualified than me in that regard, so sign me up too.
Where is this place? Might be just what is required this weekend.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 20, 2014 - 08:57pm PT
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Ghost was prolly there stoned in the mud
Well, yeah, but I still want to know where the Squamish version of Woodstock is.
We're headed up tomorrow morning for a long weekend. Mari wants to test herself on Sunset Strip, I just want to come home alive.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 20, 2014 - 09:19pm PT
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ghost -lets huck a lap on the sea traverse tomorrow am!!!
Um... What qualifies as AM in your world?
At some point tomorrow we'll wake up. After that there will be sorting out what to take, getting it in the car, realizing that we should probably eat something, and, eventually, getting in the car ourselves and heading north.
About an hour and a half after that, we'll hit the border. Last couple of times we've been there, the wait has only been five minutes. But some days it can be as much as 45 minutes or an hour.
So my guess is that we'll be crossing the Second Narrows bridge just about the time morning becomes afternoon.
Does that work for you?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 20, 2014 - 09:35pm PT
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Ghost,
If u do SS, under no circumstances can you try to talk Mari out of doing the final 10a pitch. Best pitch on the route, have fun.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 20, 2014 - 11:17pm PT
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Fell into the drink off that traverse once and came back to the surface without my sunglasses. Maybe if the tide is low enough I'll find them again.
...
Hmmm. If the tide is that low, we'll need bouldering pads.
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adikted
Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
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Jun 21, 2014 - 01:36am PT
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Currently in Vancouver seeing awesome music.....in squamish for the next 4 weeks...stoke is high!!!!!
Greg
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MH2
climber
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Jun 24, 2014 - 12:11pm PT
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I've noticed it.
And someone more ear-to-the-ground than I directed me to the topo etc. For a long time I've wanted to get on that rock. Finally a route has appeared. Hurray!
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jun 24, 2014 - 12:15pm PT
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^^^
Well why did you let pazzo get a job...its hurting everyone :)
Lets get him and go!!
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MH2
climber
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Jun 24, 2014 - 07:50pm PT
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Took me completely by surprise. Pretty sure he'll be stronger than the job is, though.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 24, 2014 - 11:44pm PT
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Great shots Andy thanks!
We went up there today, it was great and the weather turned out pretty good too!
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MH2
climber
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Jun 25, 2014 - 07:23am PT
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Good to hear Ryan. Was there a flash mob on the route?
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alina
Trad climber
CA
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Jun 25, 2014 - 08:16am PT
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jun 25, 2014 - 09:12am PT
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Looking spooky there!
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MH2
climber
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Jun 25, 2014 - 10:49am PT
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Excellent rare photo. Why is the leader carrying a couple of electric fans?
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alina
Trad climber
CA
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Jun 25, 2014 - 10:58am PT
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Did everyone guess the climb?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 25, 2014 - 11:05am PT
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Good job Alina, showing up for a quick trip & makin us locals look like weenies!
Everyone knows what route that is no need for guessing game :-)
Hoping for a tr.
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alina
Trad climber
CA
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Jun 25, 2014 - 12:14pm PT
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Not much to say. We brought 1 Valley Giant #9 (borrowed), 2 #6s, and a #4 big bro. The big bro was not used. The hard part (overhanging tipped-out 6 or really tight VG ) is short. The rest of the route is very mellow. My partner Matt (visiting Van with me) led the business pitch.
Everyone got good foot spans (solid heel-toe) the entire time. Despite being small I couldn't get any part of my body in.
Get on! It's strenuous but over fast.
Sorry, not much pictures from the trip.
We also did Liquid Gold and ran up Angel's Crest. And my Vancouver buddy led and styled Dancing in the Light. That was an awesome slab. We didn't get as many climbing days in as I had hoped so I'm scheming right now about a return later this summer. The density of quality climbs rivaled any area I've been to.
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Matt's
climber
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Jun 25, 2014 - 01:06pm PT
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yes, the FFA solo is quite impressive. Did the person onsight it? If not, he would have known that there is really only like 5 meters of actually hard (10+) offwidth on the climb...
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Matt's
climber
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Jun 25, 2014 - 01:17pm PT
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damn, onsight soloing it... i guess at the time there was so little wide gear available that it would have been a very bad idea to fall. If you fell at the crux you would take a very big fall onto the bolt, you would probably hit the ramp below.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 25, 2014 - 02:13pm PT
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Good job guys thanks for the info, if u dig into the annals of this thread u will find another account of pipeline that was not described as a casual encounter.
Where did u get the VG #9?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 25, 2014 - 06:07pm PT
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Where's the TR for last week's beach party at Point Atkinson?
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MH2
climber
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Jun 25, 2014 - 06:15pm PT
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Perhaps you refer to what took place near Point Atkinson?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 25, 2014 - 07:55pm PT
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I was waiting for that one too Hamie.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 25, 2014 - 08:18pm PT
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Perhaps you refer to what took place near Point Atkinson?
It was awesome! GF soloed off into the distance, eventually disappearing around the headland. JB said his foot was too sore to even shoe up, but then he shoed up and danced out fifteen meters or so and then came back. Mari and I didn't even get to the shoeing up stage. Just watched.
Then GF magically reappeared from some totally different direction and we all walked back toward the cars, only to meet Mr. Cairns on his way in. He had a camera dangling from his wrist, so maybe there will be photographic evidence of what happened later.
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MH2
climber
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Jun 25, 2014 - 08:53pm PT
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On my way in I met a couple who asked me for directions.
They seemed a bit hyper, asking about some stairs and a rock face, and how to get out. They told me they had just got engaged in the park. They had me take a picture with their camera. I gave them directions for getting out.
Then I met a couple who asked me for directions. They wanted to get back on the highway to Squamish. I misdirected them but then Greg and Jim showed up.
A couple boys from Surrey showed up. They were good folk. They did not ask directions.
A couple boats went by. On one of them there was a guy with a very obtrusive camera lens.
I would have taken more pictures but it just didn't feel right.
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MH2
climber
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Jun 28, 2014 - 06:03pm PT
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Squamish pianist bump.
The radio just said that Cat Toren was climbing at Squamish, yesterday. And then she was in a wife-carrying contest. Plays the piano, too.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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BIG MIKE AND MH2 AND RYAND
DID YOU GUYS BREAK YOUR CAMERAS OR SOMETHING?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Speaking of ineffective, broken or lost cameras I seem to have miss placed/forgot mine somewhere.
Canon g12 missing since fall of 2013, has anyone seen it?
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Just a heads up..... I'm advocating for the downgrading of Perry's Lieback to the modest grade of *Classic Squamish* 5.10b.
That is all.
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MH2
climber
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Calling all the pitches 10b would work.
As for photos, there was this cease and desist order.
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thesiger
climber
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It even looks a bit like a Pet wall for aging hippie has beens!
I met Brian at Quercus recently and he pointed out the location ... but does anyone know whether there is a topo for it? Maybe in situ at the cliff?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nice MH2!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Pic #4 is a work of genius.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Pic #4 is a work of genius.
seven and eight aren't bad either.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Broken cameras......
I was cleaning a new route a couple of years ago, and pried off a chunk about the size of a small micro-wave. Somehow it hit a small left-facing facet on the way down, did a 90 degree change in direction, and landed on the top of my pack, some distance to the side. Naturally my camera was in the top flap of the pack, and that was that! An expensive route.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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When FT and I climbed the north face of Plinth Fred was leading through the "rock" band and the amount of crap that came down broke my camera inside my pack lid.
But because it was sheltering my neck at the time, my neck survived.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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I just think it's incredible that someone took the time to paint a hundred foot dick on that ship. So diabolical!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2014 - 10:22pm PT
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Dru, cameras fine! Just been super busy, climbing working and editing for the cor thread. I'll be back here more often soon! ;)
Luke! Bummer about your camera dude! That sux.
Some great camera stories.. Nice work Hamie and Dru!
Ok.. I got a few pics in the old bank...
A few more bouldering shots
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Hardly Visible
Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
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Hey all, looking at being up in Squamish for about a week to ten days in early august.
I'd like to hit as much stuff as I can in the under 5.11 category while I am there.
I'll be traveling alone, so who is gonna show this stranger around?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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He must have got a little off route
I heard third hand it was a fall on snow, unable to self arrest, into bergschrund scenario.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Although I enjoy them- Bank must be getting empty if we are down to bouldering shots Mike
;-)
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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I'll be traveling alone, so who is gonna show this stranger around?
No stranger. Light him up, guys, he's one of us.
I think you will no shortage of partners, Kev, these guys get it done. Have a great trip!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2014 - 01:20pm PT
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I'll vet for Kev!! I climbed with him at cor! We had a blast! Highly recommend a day out with him!! He likes crack.. In fact i would call him a certified crack addict!
Get' er done!!
Ry, they were readily available... ;)
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Hey, why don't one of you Squamish folks go do Pipeline and report back to us on this thread. Other than Mike Hengeveld's brilliant "Road to Pipeline" piece, I can't recall every seeing any pictures or hearing of other accounts.
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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Go back like 50 posts.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Hey, thanks! I missed that the first time through. Now, pictures of both of my Squamish ascents are on this thread (the other one being Wild Turkey). Can't ask for anything more than that. Thanks Squamish dudes and Tami (is there a female who posts to this thread other than Tami?). I never had a camera back then.
Nice "electric fans" comment, btw, MH2.
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Hardly Visible
Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
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Jul 10, 2014 - 11:59am PT
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Currently planning on being there August 3rd to 13th.
Bump
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Jul 10, 2014 - 02:02pm PT
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I'm planning to head to Squamish at the end of August with a buddy from Colorado, but he can only stay for about a week, so I'd be looking for partners to play on the Chief etc. from about Sept 9-20 if all works out. I should be game for most anything from 9 to 11b/c or so (assuming all body parts remain functional ;-) Any local folk possibly interested in roping up? Post up or PM me if you'd like, would be great to meet and climb with some Squamish Tacos! Maybe tilt a cold one too, eh?
Dave Vaughan
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2014 - 07:26pm PT
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Cool Dave! I'd like to get out with ya!
We're hanging out at the bluffs again!! Got my personal trainer Sara outside for her first time!!
Sara on what climb?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 10, 2014 - 07:50pm PT
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Sara on what climb?
Pixie Corner?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2014 - 07:59pm PT
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Nope!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2014 - 09:05pm PT
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Tami!!!!! We need to hang out soon! And i mean hang out! None of this stopping at your house for 20 mins either... Dinner maybe??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2014 - 09:20pm PT
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How about now??
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MH2
climber
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Jul 10, 2014 - 09:39pm PT
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That corner at Ronins.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2014 - 09:41pm PT
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Andy, yes .. It's one of the corners at ronins....
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MH2
climber
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Jul 10, 2014 - 09:46pm PT
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The 5.8 one which I confuse name with the other corner.
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crøtch
climber
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Jul 10, 2014 - 09:51pm PT
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Magical Child?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2014 - 09:57pm PT
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Crotch got it! With MH2's help??
What's Nina on??
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MH2
climber
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Jul 10, 2014 - 09:58pm PT
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Part of the...
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crøtch
climber
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Jul 10, 2014 - 10:01pm PT
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3rd pitch of Smoke Bluff Connection?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2014 - 10:01pm PT
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Andy.. Yup!
Croch- name?
Tamisezok!!! ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2014 - 10:08pm PT
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Kyle decided to get cheeky and went cordless without informing Nina...
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MH2
climber
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Jul 10, 2014 - 10:14pm PT
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I think there is only 1 person who can name this route. He won't be looking here but in the photo he is showering us with sawdust. You may recognize the climb and know the crag.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2014 - 10:22pm PT
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I don't recognize it... But it looks like you got out today Andy! Nice!
I do however recognize the Maxim Glider rope.. Is it a 70 like mine?
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MH2
climber
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Jul 10, 2014 - 10:36pm PT
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Yes.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 10, 2014 - 10:45pm PT
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That's the new wall up at Murrin I think? Haven't climbed there but walked past it previous the development. Looks really cool!
Edit- Sick stuff M*A*S*H!! Thanks!
Did you send or what?!?!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2014 - 10:54pm PT
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Nice Mash. Was it hot up there? Lol
Ok ok.. I know the spot!!
Woodstock!
Andy, what did you think of the bolting there??
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MH2
climber
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Jul 10, 2014 - 11:16pm PT
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More than adequate.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2014 - 11:19pm PT
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I would agree with that assesment. Kyle was confused as to some of the clipping stances. I didn't lead any so cannot comment.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jul 10, 2014 - 11:35pm PT
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Is it a Barley route?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2014 - 11:53pm PT
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No. I believe The Bear had his hand in this no?
Glenn! When are we going climbing?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2014 - 12:02am PT
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Lol. Some people do... Some of us gotta work.. But we still try and get out after!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 11, 2014 - 12:14am PT
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Lol!
M*A*S*H
Are you the great Honnald?
I heard Woodstock is a fun spot for the 5.10 leader from more than a few folks.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2014 - 12:28am PT
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Lol!
You burned Alex! He deleted everything! Lol
Nice to see you here Alex!!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2014 - 12:37am PT
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Lol..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2014 - 08:30am PT
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Matt... I should have known with the cobra crack thing...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 11, 2014 - 09:18am PT
|
Speaking of 5.14s local gal Josie H. recently redpointed 14b at Horne. Izzat the hardest Canadian female send ever? It might be but I'm not informed enough to be sure.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2014 - 01:19pm PT
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Because gripped obviously doesn't have it together.. Shady business practices and ethics... Very disappointed...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 11, 2014 - 04:54pm PT
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gRipped Off
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2014 - 10:07am PT
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Dru- Yup!!
South gully is looking extremely dry right now!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2014 - 01:03pm PT
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Reporting from the top of Rock On! It's gorgeous out here.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 12, 2014 - 02:00pm PT
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Rock on Mike!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2014 - 04:21pm PT
|
Thanks buddy!
Who can geuss where we are now?
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MH2
climber
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Jul 12, 2014 - 06:26pm PT
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I like to think you are hiking the S2S with a long lens but more likely the walk-off from the Buttress.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2014 - 06:27pm PT
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Close.. 1st pitch belay
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Jul 12, 2014 - 07:10pm PT
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Yo, me and some buddies have done the roof pitch on The Badge...wild. Now we're chillin in our ledges after some quality climbing, taking in the last rays of the sun, and of course getting wasted. Give us a holla, eh?
Peace
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2014 - 07:16pm PT
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Yeah nick!!!
Still on the chief!! Gotta love the buttress in the late afternoon sun!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2014 - 07:24pm PT
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Just gorgeous up here this time of day!!
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MH2
climber
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Jul 12, 2014 - 07:53pm PT
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Hi there, Fish Boy. Way to go.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 12, 2014 - 08:00pm PT
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Now we're chillin in our ledges after some quality climbing, taking in the last rays of the sun, and of course getting wasted. Give us a holla, eh?
Do you have the ledges hanging free under the roof? That would be so perfect.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Jul 12, 2014 - 08:31pm PT
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Two ledges ten metres above the roof. It's kinda perfecter.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 12, 2014 - 10:06pm PT
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Here in Vangcouver it's "hot"
Even hotter down here a couple of hundred km south. And we've got the same crazy "This Days" and "That Daze" all over the city, too. Going out and about unmedicated into those scenes, in this weather is crazy.
And I don't know what you're seeing from Vancouver or Squamish, but the supermoon just rose over the forest east of our house. Wouldn't that be something to see while hanging in a ledge way up on the wall.
Too bad Fish Boy is on the wrong side of the Chief to see it. Sounds like he's medicated just right to appreciate it.
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MH2
climber
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Jul 12, 2014 - 10:28pm PT
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Some hazy valley off to the East. Oplopanax will have to tell us if in the first pic it is behind American Border Peak, Canadian Border Peak, or some other thing.
Look out Fish Boy, it's comin' for ya!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 12, 2014 - 10:45pm PT
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Coolest place in Squamish today possibly. I nearly went hypothermic during some escapades with a stuck rope
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jul 12, 2014 - 11:18pm PT
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Oplo, that is very cool!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2014 - 03:16am PT
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Very cool Dru!! Monmouth creek?
Just got off the chief 45 mins ago.. This adaptive climbing business is hard work!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2014 - 05:36am PT
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Wow.. I didn't know i signed up for a 24 hour push?? :)
Got up at 5 yesterday....
Still here... No sleep
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MH2
climber
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Jul 13, 2014 - 08:10am PT
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Thanks for the tour, Mike.
Great photo for a hypothermic rapper, Oplo!
Thanks for the possible ID, Tami. I'll go back and look when the horizon is clearer, and when I get up the nerve to re-enter the eerily perfect neighborhood of Caulfeild Plateau.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 13, 2014 - 09:38am PT
|
Climbing on the Apron slabs in wx like this is gawdawful :-D
Fingercracks in direct sun aren't real fun either.
A few years ago, on a blistering hot August afternoon, after climbing in the shade at Up Among Fhe Firs, Eric Neumann and I decided that since we were climbing pretty well, we should go over to the Malemute and jump on Clean Crack. The friends we were climbing with looked at us like we had lost our minds, but we had no doubts at all.
I don't think either of us got more than ten feet off the ground. Zero friction on the face, and hands so sweaty that no amount of chalk could help.
And I pulled the same stupid trick on Borderline. We finished cleaning the second pitch early one gorgeous summer afternoon just as the sun hit the wall. So, hanging out at the belay at the top of the first pitch we broke three straws off one of our cleaning whisks, and drew to see who would have the honor of trying for the first ascent. I won, and started racking up. Eric and Susan tried to convince me to wait for the next morning, but I was stoked and...
...and it was searing hot, no friction, sweaty hands, and I repeatedly greased off up in the 11c part, tearing up my finger and smashing an elbow before I finally gave up.
Forecast is for close to 35C (95F) at Index today. Should make for fun climbing -- I'm glad I'm working this weekend.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jul 13, 2014 - 11:41am PT
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Nothing but shade and cool temps on the peace pipe!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 13, 2014 - 09:45pm PT
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Box, not Monmouth
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2014 - 07:37am PT
|
Hey Tami! Sorry i didn't answer your question yesterday.. I was a bit out of it at the time... Lol I believe they are calling it "Crumpit Woods" just like the crags behind it. Not sure if there will be any access issues..
As for your other question........ Here we go.
I climbed with a legend yesterday. An inspiration really.
Wayne W has had paralytic polio since he was 9 years old. He's also destroyed his right leg in a catastrophic motorcycle accident among many other mishaps in his life. The fact that he still wants to climb despite all the difficulty he faces is simply amazing.
Heather and Wayne in the parking lot. Note Wayne's protection on his emaciated right leg, and the braces on his wrists.
I chose rock on because it was the steepest apron route I could climb and I've always wanted to link it with the buttress.
Wayne's static line just made it to the anchors in the 10a. He said it was the shortest tail he's ever started jugging on.
Wayne pulling onto the top of the Apron.
Hiking up the slabs at the top of the Apron.Wayne's like me. Climbing is his strong suit..
My walking is getting a lot better though..
Wayne jugging the first pitch of the buttress.
This was taken from the awesome ledge below the headwall
Wayne jugging the headwall
When we topped out things turned epic. Wayne was done. He had only brought 1 litre of water and it just wasn't cutting it.
Heather had called a friend who had agreed to bring us some water, and had left it at the top of the south peak. We were all parched and heather and i had brought 3 litres each but i sat on my camelback hose and lost at least half a litre.
Wayne rested for a bit while i pushed his static line up the slabs above the buttress. I didn't want to make him scramble those last couple moves especially in his condition.
Heather went ahead to get the water while Wayne and I hiked very slowly. She had only done the buttress once though, and they did the south peak scramble so she wasn't familiar with the descent and ran into a dead end, so came back.
I volunteered to run up and get the water, and ditched my gear at a point were the trail led back to the main 1st peak trail and i thought they would come across it.
I ran up to the peak and witnessed the supermoon in it's full glory. Unfortunately my camera was in the bag i was carrying for wayne with the rest of my stuff. I wasn't much in the mood for taking pics at that point anyways.
I found the water in a divot beside some people who were biving up there for the night, and thanked them for not drinking it.. Lol
I ran back down to Wayne and Heather. I found Heather lost on the slabs still with Wayne lying not far behind her.
I gave them both some water, and Wayne sipped at it gently since his stomach had already failed to contain it's charge.
It didn't help. He started puking up more bile. I rested with him for awhile, when he told me i should just go ahead and go get my truck from the apron parking lot, and some food and electrolytes for them to imbibe when they got to the bottom. I agreed, probably because i was so damn eager to get off the cliff. I left him with Heather and took as much gear as i could handle.
I made my way down the trail, and was surprised how much i was sweating considering how late it was. I had no idea of the time, but knew it was well after midnight.
I stopped quickly at the river spot to quickly fill my bottle which had gone dry again long ago. I didn't linger there too long and made my way down with a sense of purpose, somehow thinking i might not make it back to the parking lot before they got down.
When i got to the parking lot, there were two climbers there eating dinner. I had checked the time on the payphone and it said 2:30am but i just couldn't believe it, so i asked them for the time.
They told me 2:30 and then asked me about my day. After i told them what we were up to, they asked if my truck was in the apron lot, and i said yes. Then he asks "do you want a ride down there??" To which i replied, "HELL YES!!!!!" They gave me some food too and it was more than welcome.
After i went and ran errands i came back to the parking lot and there was no sign of them. I sat around in my truck until the leg cramps started again at which point i laid in the bed of my truck and got eaten alive by fricking mossi's.
Around 5am i started to get pretty darn worried. After some food and 2 liters of gatorade i started to feel a bit better. I decided to hike back up as far as i could physically make it with gatorade and food in tow. I made it to the top of the stone steps by the creek fall pool before I had enough. I sat on the stairs waiting until my ass hurt so bad i couldn't take it anymore and i left the goodies in the middle of top stair and went back down.
I went back to the truck and seriously started to think about calling search and rescue. I just didn't know how bad wayne was, or if something had happened to either one of them?
By 6:30 it had been four hours and a half hours since i'd seen them last. I called sar. I hated to do it, but better safe than sorry right? I was on the phone with dispatch still when Heather showed up.
She said Wayne was fine just really tired and he was still making his way down slowly. She found the gatorades and sent one up with the food for wayne with another hiker who was passing at a fortuitous moment.
Finally at about 8 Heather and I had gathered enough energy for another push we got to the base of the stairs, and there he was. Looking refreshed actually.. ;)
All's well that ends well i guess. In retrospect we probably should have just bivied right at the top of the buttress and Heather and i could have let Wayne rest while we went up the fast scramble to retrieve the water.....
What an EPIC!! Lol Nice work getting it done Wayne!!
And thanks for your patience and hard work Heather!!
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MH2
climber
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Jul 14, 2014 - 08:34am PT
|
Whoa!! Whew!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2014 - 09:04am PT
|
Glad to hear everyone is okay. Best to take a few days to recover. That kind of stress on the body is major.
I'll say!! I'm still bagged. Sore as hell. I went to work and got the boys started but i just can't do it today.. Gonna do some errands instead..
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
|
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Jul 14, 2014 - 09:48am PT
|
Wow, major epic. Glad all is ok, but please take it easy in this heat...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 14, 2014 - 10:41am PT
|
Not a day you'll forget any time soon.
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Vulch
Trad climber
Whistler BC
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Jul 14, 2014 - 12:04pm PT
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100% dirtbags afterwards too. No work for me either today big guy. Another positive note for this adventure was getting to hike the trail with not a soul in the early hours.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2014 - 12:17pm PT
|
Vulch is Heather in case you guys didn't make the connection....
Thanks Andy, Glenn, and Dave! I promise to take it easy for a bit... I don't remember when my last 24 hour push was!!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 14, 2014 - 12:19pm PT
|
Vulch is Heather in case you guys didn't make the connection....
Made the connection no problem, but I'd like to know what route she's on in her Avatar photo. Nice-looking crack, that.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2014 - 12:42pm PT
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It's a Tami Knight Peter Croft affair Dave... Seaside..
Ben Roy Photo
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2014 - 05:27pm PT
|
No guesses??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2014 - 05:50pm PT
|
Come on Tami!! Lol surely you remember getting a little "tipsy" on this one???
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Vulch
Trad climber
Whistler BC
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Jul 14, 2014 - 06:34pm PT
|
Prime crack indeed! :)
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jul 14, 2014 - 06:59pm PT
|
Nice mini epic factor two Mike! Great read, happy the way it ended. Badass Wayne W.
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Relic
Social climber
Weenie
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Jul 14, 2014 - 07:35pm PT
|
Holy sheeeeiiit Mike! I didn't know your epic was gonna turn into that! I feel bad for not coming up to bring water. I would have totally ditched my dinner party guests at my house to come help you if I knew it went that bad. Oh well...
I'm glad you got it all sorted out in the end.
Bad Relic.
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Vulch
Trad climber
Whistler BC
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Jul 14, 2014 - 08:05pm PT
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Haha my last name is Fulcher. In high school I got Vulcher a lot and a few years a friend called me Vulch. I kind of liked it.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2014 - 10:43pm PT
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All good Relic! We got it sorted! But maybe if you brought us tacos, Wayne woulda felt better.. Lol
Thanks Justin! Nice to see your voice here!
Ok... Seaside, involving alcohol.... Come on... Do i really need to drop more hints ?
Where's Dru... He'll know.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 15, 2014 - 08:43am PT
|
How does Seaside Rendezvous involve alcohol?
Isn't that a Anders route? With the stupid traverse at the end?
Maybe you're actually on Berrycup instead?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
|
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Jul 15, 2014 - 08:44am PT
|
Or are you trying to hint you are on Cider Crack?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2014 - 10:16am PT
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Yep.. Cider Crack.. 5.9. Just above old style. Remember now Tami?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 15, 2014 - 10:27am PT
|
Nice epic Mike!
I was under the impression you guys were planning it out still when I talked to you! I wish you would have called one of us instead of SAR but am just glad you guys FINISHED THE CLIMB!!!!!!!!!!
Heather you are a champ for toughing out the night up there & Wayne W proud send man, what a beast!!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
|
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Jul 15, 2014 - 11:46am PT
|
cider crack... cider crack...
"Would you rather be up to your waist in beer or up to your balls in cider?"
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Vulch
Trad climber
Whistler BC
|
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Jul 15, 2014 - 12:18pm PT
|
All this talk about cider is making me thirsty. Dammit.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2014 - 03:21pm PT
|
I was under the impression you guys were planning it out still when I talked to you! I wish you would have called one of us instead of SAR but am just glad you guys FINISHED THE CLIMB!!!!!!!!!!
Lol... We were still in planning stages... Lol heather agreed and we went based on when our schedules aligned! Lol i was really reluctant to start calling friends at 6:30am.... Lol next time i'll see if you wake up! Lol
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
|
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Jul 16, 2014 - 03:47pm PT
|
Did the badge on the weekend. The sun didn't touch us until 4pm so it was super sweet. It all went smoothly, had loads of fun, and found the climbing straight forward and enjoyable until the dirty end....
First A3 of the route. This is an inverted cam hook move. Not a very hard pitch, but one of the better ones on the route.
Grant, who has only done a pitch on Wrist Twister before, crushing this pitch full of small fixed heads and requiring hammering. He did super well.
Nice
Me at the bags at the end of the 3rd, Chris out in space.
Chris tasting some thin A3. Not much was solid on this pitch.
Chris stoked to have cruised a stiff pitch.
Starting the crux roof.
Hanging off a couple of stacked blades.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
|
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Jul 16, 2014 - 03:53pm PT
|
Yay, I made it!
Grant enjoying the exposure.
Our camp above the roof...got there about 4.30pm in the afternoon and chilled there instead of doing anything climbing related.
Second last pitch. I took a silly fall on the one, and had really serious rope drag after the roofy bit. I run super long slings on things, but I think Revolvers would be key here.
Last pitch. Really crappy.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
|
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|
Jul 16, 2014 - 07:57pm PT
|
No worries Jim....we had a ball on the route together, looks like Mescalito is on the cards now...
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MH2
climber
|
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Jul 16, 2014 - 09:04pm PT
|
Wild terrain, Fish Boy.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
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Jul 16, 2014 - 10:58pm PT
|
Nice stuff Fish Boy. Great pre spray too :-)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
|
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Jul 17, 2014 - 01:18am PT
|
Great stuff fish boy.
Strong work.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2014 - 07:47am PT
|
Nice work Nick!! Sick pics dude!! Looks like you guys had a blast up there!!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
|
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Jul 17, 2014 - 12:04pm PT
|
Those are some pretty awesome shorts too.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
|
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Jul 19, 2014 - 04:08pm PT
|
bumpitty bump bump for splitter granite cracks way up in the mountains!
someone out there must know this beauty..
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
|
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Jul 19, 2014 - 05:10pm PT
|
Holy F, thats a beauty alright.. Please tell us if no one gets it,would ya?
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
|
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Jul 19, 2014 - 05:12pm PT
|
bump
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
|
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Jul 19, 2014 - 05:22pm PT
|
Chilliwack range?
Hey BM,Hardly Visible coming to town I read up thread.. Wanna meet up w you guys , eh...!
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MH2
climber
|
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Jul 19, 2014 - 05:32pm PT
|
I wish I knew that climb, brownie. Dig the concavity.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 19, 2014 - 05:50pm PT
|
Nice stuff Brownie, why are you carrying climbing shoes on your harness in the first pic?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2014 - 09:27pm PT
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Looks fun Kieran!
Don- Kev is currently trapped in the states... He's working on it, but not expecting an expedient resolution.
We should hook up soon tho! ;)
Has anyone done Mt Sloan? A buddy of mine has expressed interest in heading up there..
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Jul 19, 2014 - 11:00pm PT
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The classic route up the ne (?) ridge ,we did a few years back.. Was
a nice time.. I recall that the rope just slowed us down .. We came down the s face which made it out to be a nice day trip
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adikted
Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
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Jul 20, 2014 - 10:39pm PT
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Just spent the last 5 weeks in canada with the first four in Squamish...such a rad place...finished up the trip with Angels crest before we left for the bugs..love Squamish!!!
greg
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2014 - 11:02pm PT
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Thanks Don!
Wow Jim! Thanks for those! So cool!! What year was that? Was that a free ascent of zombie roof? You just can't duplicate that old film feel!!
Glad you enjoyed Greg!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2014 - 11:06pm PT
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Wow Jim! That one is awesome!
Edit: Loving it Jim!! How's the knee been? Riding much?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2014 - 07:50am PT
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Bump for Jim's killer shots!!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jul 21, 2014 - 07:57am PT
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Yeah, more j b pics.
Dean's Toyota Celica.... Such a classic. I was jealous.
The beaters I drove in those days cost less than my automatic seat post for my mtn bike, 30 years later.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2014 - 08:02am PT
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Hamish!!!! Hi!!! How's bike life??
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jul 21, 2014 - 08:05am PT
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Better than I can explain with words.
Vroooooooom....
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MH2
climber
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Jul 21, 2014 - 08:07am PT
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It's great to get to look through the retroscope, Jim.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jul 21, 2014 - 08:10am PT
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jul 21, 2014 - 08:17am PT
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 21, 2014 - 08:42am PT
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Mountain biking sideways is as good as it gets?
How do you keep from falling off that vertical dirt wall?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jul 21, 2014 - 08:46am PT
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Oops.
Technically challenged.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 21, 2014 - 09:17am PT
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With 29 inch wheels, anything is possible
Oh yeah? Then why are they carrying their bikes through that slash in the first pic, and not just riding right over it?
But seriously -- I really enjoy the mountain biking stories and photos Hamish, so keep posting.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2014 - 09:37am PT
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Cool!! Hamish we have to go climbing this summer!! I don't even want to think of trying to keep up to you on that bike!!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jul 21, 2014 - 10:30am PT
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Jul 21, 2014 - 11:35am PT
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Can't tell if you're falling or rolling in that shot Hamish :)
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jul 21, 2014 - 11:52am PT
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Well I started it rolling but then had to pull up.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jul 21, 2014 - 12:30pm PT
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jul 21, 2014 - 12:43pm PT
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That was my brief career as a sport rappeller, 1975
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2014 - 08:02pm PT
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So cool Jim! Perry's looking good!!
Sandra and i are out at the moment...
Any guesses?
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MH2
climber
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Jul 21, 2014 - 08:06pm PT
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Thanks for that, Jim.
However, it is Das Muzak, 1985, 11d, B/7, RS/70, 10-4, etc., etc.
according to Viktor Kramar
Hamish ????!!
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MH2
climber
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Jul 21, 2014 - 08:15pm PT
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Well thanks for spreading the fun surplus around, Jim. Viktor will understand.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 21, 2014 - 08:44pm PT
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The Way too much fun era:
Otherwise known as the era when we had hair and flat stomachs.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2014 - 10:06pm PT
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Nooooo!! Cyrl Sneer!!! Why delete!? From the racoons right??? You got it. Calchek. Bonus points for the crag name..
Jim this stuff is gold!! Loving it! That looks like a crazy day!! Lol
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2014 - 10:55pm PT
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Cryl!! R u Gary?? Or Bob? :)
Tami i saw that u cheeky monkey!!!
Lol!!
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Cyril Sneer
Trad climber
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Jul 22, 2014 - 08:39am PT
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I was feeling a little self conscious about my first post, I wanted it to be a banger...
I didn't realize that you could track these things, but then again you are "Big Mike" of supertopo fame.
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Cyril Sneer
Trad climber
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Jul 22, 2014 - 08:42am PT
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Shelf Road -"Piece of cake" above you
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 22, 2014 - 09:46am PT
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Did someone say Sloan?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 22, 2014 - 07:26pm PT
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and Glenn, is that pinnacle pic in the wAdd Range?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2014 - 07:30pm PT
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Mmm!! Looks fun Dru!
I didn't realize that you could track these things, but then again you are "Big Mike" of supertopo fame.
Lol! I just happened to catch it!! You're up on your calchek crags!! Welcome!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jul 22, 2014 - 10:19pm PT
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The pic in the granite-porn thread? Nope, not Wadd. You haven't been in that atrea, AFAIK.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 23, 2014 - 01:01am PT
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Wow, lots of great shots Jim! Thanks!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 23, 2014 - 08:31am PT
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Tami the Ault Lakes are a 2 hr hike on a trail from road end and not even that cold...
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sagot
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jul 23, 2014 - 09:42am PT
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WOW! This brings back memories galore.
One that stands out was, riding my RD350 in the snow and parking it in the back hallway of 12 E.4th!!
Endless talking heads. Randy sweating up the place on his air cycling trainer. Two fridges and no dishwasher!!
Oh ya and climbing, always climbing.
And I discovered Wine, Woman and Money!
Who knew one could make more than $157.00 a month by working!
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Vulch
Trad climber
Whistler BC
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Jul 23, 2014 - 12:08pm PT
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Mt. Sloan??? How was it? We were looking at doing it at some point.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 23, 2014 - 01:53pm PT
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IMHO if you call yourself a rock climber you should hike yer rack up to Sloan and do one of the south face routes - SE Butt 1 pitch 5.4 plus scrambling, SW Butt 5 p 5.8 or South Central 7 p, 5.9. The rock is super good.
The NE ridge is good too but it's an unroped scramble. Good for moving fast (12 hr return from Squampton including the drive), not so much if looking for actual climbing.
The direct headwall midway up on South Central has some nice X cracks that would give a 20 m 5.10 pitch. Bring a couple red-yellow camalots. or some blues for the S crack to the right.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 23, 2014 - 09:39pm PT
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Cool video Brownie.
Shaky but I don't give a f*#k that place is beautiful!!!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 24, 2014 - 06:48am PT
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Wow, there is some seriously bump worthy content in these last few pages.
Thanks to every one who took time to post some pics or stories, you guys make this place great.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 24, 2014 - 07:16pm PT
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So what is the current connection between the Coastal climbers and the interior Rockies people ?
We climb their ice in the winter, they climb our granite in the summer, and in spring and fall we all play hacky sac in the Skaha parking lot.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 25, 2014 - 10:51am PT
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Anybody heard any random explosions around Squamish or Whistler?
Just curious.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Jul 25, 2014 - 10:52am PT
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The esteemed Ed Cooper showing us all a thing or two about lay-backing face cracks in mountain boots..
don't forget to bring a hammer!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 25, 2014 - 11:44am PT
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Dang, I was on the wrong side of the Angel.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Jul 25, 2014 - 10:46pm PT
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I hope the pics I have been digging out are OK and are appropriate for this thread.
Please don't post any more good stuff here!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 26, 2014 - 12:36am PT
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Jim B should be brought up on charges as well.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2014 - 01:02am PT
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Jim!!! Are you kidding me??? These photos are exactly the kind of response i was trying to illicit when i started this thread!!!
GOLD!!
Thank you sir!
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MH2
climber
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Jul 26, 2014 - 09:09am PT
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Jim B should be brought up on charges as well.
Damn! He gave me a lift a couple days ago and I didn't get photographic evidence.
But if he keeps adding good content to this thread, well, res ipsa loquitur.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 26, 2014 - 10:31am PT
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Where I'm coming from is all about the imagination that started with climbing on the Chief that has led to some really good times outside of Howe Sound.
No matter how far we went, the thread connecting us to Squamish never broke, did it? So yes, post away.
And on that subject, I remember seeing somebody's shots of you climbing above the Tiedemann Glacier, on a trip with some of the Squamish crew. Maybe on Stiletto? Don't know who all was with you, but the pictures were great. Wild granite in a wild setting. I'd love to find out who has pictures from that trip and get them posting.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Jul 26, 2014 - 12:14pm PT
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an oldie but a goodie.. TKC on the traverse into the GTC!!
three cheers for squamish psyche!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2014 - 03:28pm PT
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Rad tshirt!!
I'm on second peak this weekend.. No ascent for me this time tho. Sandra ditched me to climb the chief with Heather... I was supposed to go with tifo but he bailed.. So i came up with an alternate plan and brought a rope and my camera up the backside instead!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2014 - 03:55pm PT
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So gorgeous today!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2014 - 04:17pm PT
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That's the goal! Lol
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2014 - 05:28pm PT
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Celebrating an ascent of ultimate with summit beers!!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 27, 2014 - 06:56pm PT
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Kieran barefoot soloing in Squitty bay!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2014 - 11:40pm PT
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Nice Silouette Luke!
Cool pic Jim! Sounds like a fun trip! I remember that you broke your arm after a whipper on a wall right? Was it that occasion? Remind us of the details of that adventure? ;)
So i bet some of youz are wondering how i made out with my photo session today... I'd say i did pretty good!
Heather on the ultimate pitch of Ultimate Everything 10b
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Jul 28, 2014 - 12:27am PT
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Great shot, Mike!!
..one of my favorite views on the planet is this one. Its taken years to get a decent photo (I'm usually doing 80 or 90 round this corner)
A couple from the other day on the classic, Papoose One (FA.1961, Beckey, Bjornstad)
Some names like Woodsworth and Ourom show up as doing the FFA, my guide books conflict on this..?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 28, 2014 - 09:39am PT
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Speaking of the Chehalis, Jim...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2014 - 10:36am PT
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Very cool Don! Thanks!
Looks like u had fun out there dru!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2014 - 02:11pm PT
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Heather's friend Holly was kind enough to take some shots of me hangin' out...
Shooting some scenics
Holly Saitz Photo
Checking my exposures.
Holly Saitz Photo
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2014 - 08:54pm PT
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Sandra's "Ultimate" burn...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 28, 2014 - 09:59pm PT
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Apparently we don't need to go to the Cecil any more, to see the peelers.
Looks painful - I hope Sandra heals up soon. Lots of time in cool water e.g. Browning or Brohm Lake, is the thing.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jul 28, 2014 - 10:13pm PT
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That might be the funniest thing I've ever heard Anders say.
The best I might have come up with was, ouch.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2014 - 10:29pm PT
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YA ANDERS!!! :)
lol! too funny! I love the asymmetrical nature of it.... lol
Ouch indeed Perry! :)
Nice to hear from you guys!!
Here's Sandra's favorite shot from the other day.
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Jul 29, 2014 - 12:54am PT
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That's a great place to end the day, eh, Sandra .. Great effort :)
.
.Today in the heatwave
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 29, 2014 - 05:51pm PT
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Nice shots everyone.
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jplotz!
climber
Wenatchee, WA
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Jul 29, 2014 - 09:23pm PT
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Jim Brennan:
I do believe this photo you posted is from Mt. Stuart, WA with Stuart Lake below, not the Chehalis Range. Though I could be wrong, but....
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 29, 2014 - 09:42pm PT
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Yes Jim, it's a place that feels trapped in a time long since passed.
Really enjoying these old shots too boys thanks!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 30, 2014 - 12:14am PT
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God, I love this thread. My last two posts were to the "what is ass" thread and something about dagos.
Really cool pics and dismembered memories, Jim. You are now a full member of the CRS battalion. (can't remember shite"
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Jul 30, 2014 - 12:21am PT
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Was there an accident on the Chief today? (Saturday, 2 Aug)
After we got baked off whatever it was we were pretending to climb we wound up in town and on the spit in the afternoon, and could hear and see a helicopter hovering around the upper North Gulley. Eventually it went away, but not long after came back and spent more time in there.
Always scary to hear & see that.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2014 - 06:58pm PT
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Yes Dave. Apparently there was a non life threatening injury on Angel's Crest this afternoon.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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We did a HETS operation off the Acrophobes.
I heard Honnold third classed The Grand in 38 minutes.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2014 - 11:50am PT
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I sure did! Heard he hiked diedre this morning.. Me and phil went to do snake but it was just too hot already... We cruised bpeel instead since phil hadn't been up it for awhile and we wanna simul it when we do ultimate.. It wasn't bad up there, but warmer than normal for sure.. I was sweating...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2014 - 10:55am PT
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This pic illustrates why i stayed in bed this morning quite well... Lol
Me and Phil at the top of B-peel 9:30am yesterday morning...
Lol
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Starting early is essential for beating the heat and crowds.
On Saturday, The Bear and I were at the top of Snake by 08:00.
Followed up with a nice cruise on the SUP from the front yard to Darrel Bay and back.
I ended semi recumbent on the sofa and lapsed into an indolent torpor only to be awakened for the HETS rescue off the Angel Crest.
Some kind of multi sport day I guess.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I ended semi recumben on the sofa and lapsed into an indolent torpor only to be awakened for the HETS rescue off the Angel Crest.
Some kind of multi sport day I guess.
Yes, you gotta know when to fold 'em.
We didn't get an early enough start (something about driving until after midnight), but at least were smart enough to figure out that overhanging offwidth in full sun on a 30-degree day was the wrong thing.
The right thing? Uh, lets get out on the spit and get in the water and wind! Turned out the spit was hosting some kind of international kite boarding comp, and we not only got beer, but saw some pretty amazing off-the-water flying. Multi-sport indeed.
I posted one picture on the previous page, but here are a few more
These guys were bearing down on the crowd at warp speed, and lifting off so close that they could practically touch hands with the spectators.
The Steamworks Brewery tent
And a bit of color for the old gray Chief
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Yesterday was a bad day at the crags.
3 month old rope.
3 month old camera.
Multi-year old wrist.
An expensive day too.
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Ouch! A story for the pictures please......
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Whoa! Hamish... Hope you're okay.
Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words, but other times we really need the words.
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MH2
climber
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Lightning? The rope looks muddy, too. Some kind of close call and quite a neat de-sheathing. I hope you recover well.
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The Call Of K2 Lou
Mountain climber
North Shore, BC
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Took a walk in the heat last week:
Almost there... that hill went on so friggin' long I wondered if I was getting lost.
A pretty decent reward for 15 km of sweat.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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jeez when it's that hot in Squamish you should pool some cash for the chopper ride to the Little Toba, thousands of feet of sun kissed granite with a glacier or 20 to keep things cool.
87 km from brackendale as the crow, or A-star, flies... that must be closer than Pemberton!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Or even better, this stuff around Tzoonie... 30 kms from downtown Squamish, no routes on the face yet, chehalis-like rock, ???
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Thanks for the good wishes. As you can see, I did something really dumb. No excuses. Just dumb. 'Nuff said. Fortunately my wrist is not nearly as bad as it looked at first. My bank a/c [and my pride] took a bigger hit than my wrist.
Cheers,
H.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2014 - 12:09am PT
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Glad you're ok Hamie!! These things happen to the best of us eh?? How you heal up quick!!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
|
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There are several photos of Squish in the current Gripped maggie. Also a nice profile of Greg Foweraker, with a list of his favourite new routes, and various business endeavours. Clearly Tami was not asked to contribute, as there is no mention of his alleged food consumption prowess!!!!
Congrats Greg, it's good to see the recognition.
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MH2
climber
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I recognize him and he shows the seemingly effortless positivity that lies behind both accomplishment and friendliness.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
|
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Son of Pan
Traverse Waddington massif
W face Butte
Shipton Spire
FFA UWall.
etc. etc.
not listed, but likely included
A Piece of Cake
Chickenhead Soup
Fist Full of Yogurt
etc. etc.
Hey Greg, just kiddin'!
H.
Edit: Tami made me do it.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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No man, it's the grin.
not foodeater,
rather shiteatin' as in grin.
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micro_marc
Gym climber
Squamish
|
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Squamish legends representing in the Serra 5 summit register, Waddington Range B.C.
Can someone help me rotate these to make them readable? I suck.
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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et voila
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2014 - 12:01pm PT
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U don't suck bud! It's supertopo's photo app that's wack! May i suggest picking up photoshop express at the app store for the grand price of free? Then u can color correct, tweak, rotate and crop on your phone. Supertopo also doesn't flip your pics anymore!!
I sharpened these a tad so we can read em better
Great to see you having fun in the mountains. Please feel free to regale us with some photos!
I have one question for you sir... When are we going wall climbing?? ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2014 - 01:31pm PT
|
Nice Greg!!! We need to go climb!!
I'm on the chief again.... But I got to climb it today!!! Just having a siesta at the base of the last pitch now..
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peter croft
climber
|
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Aug 11, 2014 - 04:52am PT
|
Nice shot of the Wadd picnic, Greg. More on the food eating - we ate like force fed hogs on that trip. The only way to trim down our monster packs was a daily eating contest, at least of the good things like chocolate and sardines. Remember we left a cairn of the boring stuff - noodles, rice etc on the summit of Combatant. Don has a great photo of me passed out there under a makeshift Therma Rest sunshade - my tummy a mountain in itself.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Aug 11, 2014 - 08:20pm PT
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I suppose that I am asking the obvious. Did MA [or????] make the 3rd ascent of SV? If not, where did the pix come from?
Sooooo out of the loop here in the Koots.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 11, 2014 - 09:51pm PT
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Hi Hamish, M-A made perhaps the 8th ascent, or thereabouts. But it was the first solo ascent, done as part of an Asperity link-up. Pretty impressive.
And get a new camera (they've improved a lot in the last couple of years), and get those hands healed up!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Aug 11, 2014 - 11:30pm PT
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So SV has now reached Mummery's stage 3, the "easy day for a lady" status? He probably soloed it in a day from Vanc. 50 years and 2 months ago. Wow!! You must be getting old. :) :)
Glenn, that WAS a new camera, only 3 months old. A Panasonic ZS25 Lumix, with a Leica lens. The lens thing is somewhere at the bottom of the crag. Any suggestions for a replacement? I don't understand why they don't make something with a viewfinder. Everyone I talk to wants one.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Aug 11, 2014 - 11:41pm PT
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For those yet to be linked in other pictures and stories of Marc's trip to the waddington.
It's good!👌
http://marcleclerc.blogspot.ca/?m=1
Best of luck on a speedy recovery Hamish.🙏
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Aug 13, 2014 - 11:16pm PT
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Hey Tami
I see that you are keen to learn who wrote the item on GF. Always happy to oblige. It was by......
......darn.........I can't remember......
It was on the tip of my tongue......
......some guy........
....starts with......hmmm let me think......
Darn. I'll have to go and look it up.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 14, 2014 - 10:26am PT
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Hamie, rough about the camera. My Canon Powershot G16 has a viewfinder, but it is not that accurate (sometimes cuts off the top of the peaks). Viewfinder cameras are thin on the ground. Whatever you get, let me know, please: Ellis wants one, too.
G
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Aug 14, 2014 - 11:03am PT
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And the writer is....
Drumroll please......
Tom Wright!!!!!!!!
Anyone know anything about Tom?
EDIT: Glenn, thanks for the tips.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2014 - 11:51pm PT
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Tom's a great guy.. Great guy...
I'm sure... Lol i dunno dick about Tom.. Lol
Sandra and i got out for a couple pitches. This was the scene at burgers and fries right.....
Any one bored tonight?? I heard the smoke bluffs can be real spooky at night.... Lol
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 18, 2014 - 04:20pm PT
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Is that so you can wipe your feet before entering?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2014 - 04:48pm PT
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Big Mike -love the japanese camping setup in the bluffs -the towel is always a giveaway
Lol. They seemed eastern european.. Not sure what was with the rona mat..
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jgrigg
Trad climber
Kitchener, ON, Canada
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Aug 20, 2014 - 02:23pm PT
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Hello McTopo Squamish peeps,
I will be driving down to the Valley from Squamish this September 13. If you or anyone you know is also making their way from Squamish to Yosemite this September and is looking to carpool, send me an email. I have room for up to three people including myself and have abundant space for wall laden sows.
Cheers,
Jon
jgrigg84@gmail.com
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MH2
climber
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Aug 20, 2014 - 07:46pm PT
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Nice photos!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2014 - 08:27pm PT
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Very nice Jim! An excellent representation of what Calculus looked like before Kris Wild went to work on it. I remember it well, My first time on that side of the apron, my first gear belay, below the finger crack on a decomposing chunk of moss...
I was scared out of my mind as the dirt crumbled from under the lush green patch.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2014 - 09:19pm PT
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Yes, it is, but i was still a sport weenie at the time.. Lol.
This is post scrub, 2013
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Aug 20, 2014 - 09:56pm PT
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Nice pics!
Here is a shot of my second lap. My shoulder is still bruised from that rack.
Jim, What do say we jump in with Jon and catch rip down to the valley,meet up with Kessler and climb something on the dawn wall!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2014 - 11:17pm PT
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Here's another shot from that adventure. Now that I've discovered raw, i can re-edit all my old stuff.
Luke on the Split Pillar 10b
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MH2
climber
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Aug 21, 2014 - 07:51am PT
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Fun to see those 2 bolts re-appear on the Split Pillar.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2014 - 08:02am PT
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I thought so too. And are those pins? :) is that where all those nice finger locks come from? :)
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 21, 2014 - 11:09am PT
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"What Calculus looked like before Kris"?
Both of those pics are after Kris. It was a green line before.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Aug 21, 2014 - 01:26pm PT
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me go up
me go down
don't forget the #3....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2014 - 04:04pm PT
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Lol Dru. I remember it prior to Kris's work and it wasn't that green.... It wasn't as clean either tho... Lol
Yes.. Don't forget the #3... Thank god the tipped out #2 caught you! Lol
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MH2
climber
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Aug 22, 2014 - 09:40am PT
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I'd like to see a high-res gps track of that 290 pitch day spooled out in about 2 minutes. Maybe I should look at the link, too. Thanks.
Really nice to see all the Grand Wall photos, too.
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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Aug 22, 2014 - 10:33am PT
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The RV project are making a film of it. Should be cool!
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Aug 22, 2014 - 03:15pm PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2014 - 06:03pm PT
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Nice Pics Everyone!!
Lol. Honnold walked by Sunday as Sandra was having a moment over her new harness... Lol
I bet het was witness to a lot of interesing scenes in the parking lot on sunday... Lol
Should we tell him rambles is really only two rope lengths? Lol..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2014 - 10:11am PT
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ok ok.. bad joke.. lol
here's another shot from my first time up the grand.
Nate standing on the lowest perch of the pillar tree.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Aug 27, 2014 - 12:18am PT
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290 pitches, solo, in a day.
Free solo of UWall.
Does not compute, does not compute, does not........
2 years ago I watched AH solo up a 4 pitch 10d in Potrero, but I could not watch him downclimb it. This was the day after he had completed a 20 pitch 13+ new route, and the day he was flying home. His idea of a rest day? Does not compute, does not compute..........
Kids these days!
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Cyril Sneer
Trad climber
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Aug 27, 2014 - 09:13am PT
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I figured as I've been nerding out on this thread for years without chiming in I'd share a few photos of our adventure this past weekend. Thank you all for your stories and comedy.
SW Buttress of Mt Thiassi
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Aug 27, 2014 - 12:23pm PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2014 - 10:02pm PT
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Welcome Cyril! I know who you are! you have revealed yourself by your fabulous pics! Sorry we didn't get out last weekend... My body doesn't work as well as my i would like sometimes... shoot me a pm for monday?
btw.. if u don't reveal yourself... i might accidentally... i have a habit of using people's first names.. lol
Uwall solo is out of hand! Nice to see you here Hamie!! does not compute indeed..
Back to Jim's query.. here's another shot from my maiden voyage up the grand.
Aislinn shivering and Nate taping up his poor thumb after my huge pillar whipper sucked it up into his belay device...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 28, 2014 - 10:40am PT
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Prolly got these 'tches before you were born, Mike. ;-)
I wonder if it's still there?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2014 - 11:44am PT
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So cool Reilly!! I'm pretty sure it's gone. Where was it? I've never heard of anywhere referred to as "Whistler Town Centre" before.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2014 - 02:48pm PT
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Ok Tami. Was it the one that sticks out into the square by the liquor store then? The old Citta's building? Across from the pharmacy?
Jim i remember the boot well. My first outing in whistler was to the local's living room. I spent many a punk night and boot ballet there.
The beer was sh#t, and no one ordered food, but damn! That place was legend!!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2014 - 04:28pm PT
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Lol Tami! I knew that Fitz creek had been moved. They built a debris structure higher up the creek, to protect the town in the event of a slide from fitz slump, but there is so much dirt there just ready to fall into the river...
It makes for some interesting terrain, but also makes me glad that i live on a hill at the other end of town.....
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 28, 2014 - 10:41pm PT
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My grandpa was working in Pemby in the late 50's and the dude he was working for was trying to sell him the 15 odd acres that was to become the dump/mecca for $35k or something dumb like that lol. Everyone around thought it was a rip off. He probably would have planted hay all over it anyhow.
Besides.
Everyone knows though that whistler always has been and always will be just a distraction from the reason we are here ;-)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 29, 2014 - 01:18pm PT
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That's cool info Tami, maybe Pip's pops was the guy my gramps was working with and he was trying to sell it to him for 3,500 not 35,000 lol!! The details of my story are murky at best and unfortunately that's all I got. Neat stuff.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 29, 2014 - 01:28pm PT
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Tami, more Pip Brock stories, please.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 29, 2014 - 05:23pm PT
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Fascinating. I never met him; John Clarke knew him, though.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 29, 2014 - 06:03pm PT
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Tami, I don't think the Mundays (or Pip Brock) were ever on the Radiant. The Scimitar, yes. I'll have to look it up.
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MH2
climber
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Aug 29, 2014 - 06:19pm PT
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That fires my imagination, Tami. Thanks.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 29, 2014 - 07:22pm PT
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Yes, we all miss John. I thought Lisa's book was very good, and it's great to have it out. (I'm working on one on Dick Culbert, which will be a different sort of book; he was a different sort of person.)
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Aug 29, 2014 - 07:38pm PT
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Going slightly off topic, Ms. Chief and I had an awesome adventure to the Golden Hinde about ten days ago, marching in from Myra Falls.
Two days of stellar ridge walking to a camp under the south side.
A little under two hours up the south gully route with some spicy (like don't blow it) fourth to a perfect summit by 09:00.
Huge hump back to our first bivi on Phillips Ridge same day.
Meandered back to Arnica Lake and the eighty one switchbacks down to the car.
Over sixty km round trip and one of the best outings I've EVER done.
I guess if there's a Squamish connection, back in 1973/4 Peter Croft, John Symon, Tom DeGroot (who was a merry old hoot) and I spent five days traversing across Strathcona from Marble Meadows and out the Elk River Valley.
The boys climbed the Hinde and I showed some of my future talent for backing off and declined the steep West face couloir.
Apparently a couple Island guys in loin cloths and Hong Kong get alongs recently did the Hinde in a 16 hr round trip from the Mine.
As an aside, I recently realized that when I first came to Squamish, I was technically an Island lad having spent a big chunk of my youth in cool places like Port Alberni and Port McNeill before landing in the Comox Valley and emigrating to Burnaby then Squish.
Albert Edward was my first alpine outing and Arrowsmith some of my first rock climbing.
It was wonderful to reconnect with the Island alpine and finally stand on top of the Hinde some 41 years later.
Maybe I can figure out how to post a couple photos.
The Hinde some 15-20 km distant from our first bivi on Phillips Ridge.
Our approach this day drops DOWN off Phillips Ridge a few kms ahead, UP Carter Creek and around the left (west) sides of Carter and Schjelderup Lakes, then UP the north shoulder of Burman, then DOWN to the Chasm and finally UP 500M to a cool campsite under the south face.
Ms. Chief on the south end of Carter Lake, one of the prettiest places on the trip.
The Goddess Nesbina, finest adventure partner there ever was, on the summit, morning of day three.
Yours truly, suitably chuffed with some Island giants in the background including Colonel Foster, Rambler Peak, Mt Victoria and The Warden Tower in the distance and, Elkhorn closer on the right.
Nadine soldiers on past Schjelderup Lake on our long day from the summit back to Phillips Ridge.
Looking back from our last bivi on Phillips the morning of our last day.
Not sure how it can get any better.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Aug 29, 2014 - 07:44pm PT
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I could barely resist the uppercase on Alpine but figured those in the know would make the connection.
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Aug 29, 2014 - 08:12pm PT
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Hey Chief as an island lifer I'm glad to hear you came back for a visit! I'm only now learning how the Squamish connection is woven into the tapestry of Vancouver Island climbing history. Not only the climbers this place helped to spawn but those who returned like John and Fred Put to start development of crags and grow the community here, and locals like Barner who brought their knowledge from Squamish back to share with others.
The Island Alpine may not hold the kind of splitter climbing the coastal mainland is known for but it is a mountain range for ramblers. A place of breathtaking beauty with some amazing scenery (and a few mountain gems secreted amongst the thick island bush)!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Aug 29, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
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I did my first rappel on Arrowsmith with Fred Put and some 3rd classing that he thought was pretty stupid.
John Put and I did the second ascent of the East Face of Colonel Foster in 77 I think. Epic.
John and I later went to Arrowsmith and third classed a couple cool mid fifth FAs (probably bolted now) and John was sure he was going to buy the farm on the tope of the second one.
He later told me he didn't know whether to call for help or pray to Jesus.
We climbed some Grade IV ice on Beecher not long after the invention of ice screws.
The Put brothers are solid gold.
Until you've seen the Island alpine, it's impossible to appreciate just how rugged, huge and glaciated the terrain is; incredible.
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Stewart
Trad climber
Courtenay, B.C.
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Aug 29, 2014 - 08:43pm PT
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Yo Tami: Yeah, that was a whole pile of fun, especially since I also had bronchitis from the beginning of the trip, so the broken ribs sure were the icing on the cake. Or maybe the dead battery when I finally made it out.
How did I end up sailing into the shrund in the first place? Well, I was traversing a narrow, wet ledge with a Stubai Aschenbrenner ice axe (as in straight pick) stuck into the vertical snow above the ledge. The guy above me with his brand new curved pick axe REFUSED to drop me a rope, saying I didn't need it.
Turned out I did, since the wet rock also had some verglas on it. Needless to say, I should have turned around and headed back to camp at that point and Trotsky'd the bugger when he returned to camp.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Aug 29, 2014 - 10:52pm PT
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Bordering on a hijack.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2014 - 11:04pm PT
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Lol.. I'll allow based on the aforementioned Squamish links.. My North Island heritage probably doesn't hurt either... ;)
I love this thread....
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 29, 2014 - 11:30pm PT
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I love this thread, too, Mike. And, not to hijack the hijack, but this is a Squamish photo from the 1960s. This isn't a trick question: I don't know where this is. Does anybody have any ideas?
Looks like Tim Auger climbing.
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Aug 29, 2014 - 11:53pm PT
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Thanks for the minor hijack, the climbing history on the north island is a lot like the climbers, mysterious, aloof, often unrecorded. It's wonderful to hear some of the stories of my own backyard. Yes the Elk River valley is very long, the approach keeps out the riff raff. There are some places that are still very remote and seldom explored. The crag development has grown in recent years with enough cragging spots to make an island roadtrip worthwhile for those seeking something different.
Thanks again for the great thread Mike, best on ST :)
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Relic
Social climber
Weenie
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Aug 30, 2014 - 12:00am PT
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that pic is in the Bulletheads, Sunshine Chimney North. You can see A Pitch in Time to the left in the picture, which wasn't climbed until the 70's. The esoteric corner crack is Sloppy Seconds.
gimmie a cookie
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Aug 30, 2014 - 06:27am PT
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" Frankly, I'd rather offer a visitor some route info, a cold beer or a dry place to stay."
This is how We were treated by Perry Beckham. California climbers visiting Squamish for the first (& only) time. Thought my buddy & I were pretty good beer drinkers until We met some Canadians! Probley why the memory is dim on this. I kind of remember Perry sandbagging me to lead the crux expando pitch of Ten Years After? I think it was the 2nd or 4th ascent. Might have been A4 back then, & I took a nice whipper that Perry held in fine style - I do believe we all used body belays. Anyway, I was kind of fired up after the fall, and lead it on my 2nd try. Maybe the Chief might remember in greater detail. Best hosptality ever experienced!
Bob Pinckney
aka pinckbrown
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Aug 30, 2014 - 07:50am PT
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Bob,
Good to hear from you after all these years!
Hope you can make it back for a visit again.
There's usually a cold beer or two in the fridge and a decent bivi site.
PB
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MH2
climber
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Aug 30, 2014 - 08:56am PT
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I have my doubts about that photo being where Relic says, though the features are a good rough match. A Pitch in Time is straighter and the climber is about where Varicose Vein is today. However, I have no better idea where the picture is from. Doesn't look any more familiar when reversed. That poplar or aspen seems like it should help and also the rope the climber is carrying. Maybe the 60s were so long ago the rocks have eroded and giant cedars have grown up.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 30, 2014 - 09:03am PT
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Sunshine Chimneys! That's a very good possibility indeed. The alder (or whatever) in the photo is probably long, long gone. Those things don't usually last 50 years.
Thanks, Relic & MH2.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 30, 2014 - 10:36am PT
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Bruce, K-K was my original hunch, but I thought "naw, the corner on the left of the photo is too close to the route."
Didn't know anyone did it in icy conditions.... great.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Aug 30, 2014 - 01:27pm PT
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Assuming it's true Honnold third classed the U Wall, I marvel that it's seemingly relegated to a mere byline already.
While he's soloed harder routes, U Wall is to my thinking, in another league.
Astroman, The Crucifix and even The Northern Lights allow some "warm up before the business" or "a retreat" to a no hands ledge.
The first 100 meters of U Wall are another story.
I'm reminded of Croft's line as he probed those initial defences, with a rope on over thirty years ago.
"Space; the final frontier, to boldly go where no man has gone before".
Not sure what else to say about this at this time.
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Stewart
Trad climber
Courtenay, B.C.
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Aug 30, 2014 - 02:03pm PT
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Thanks Tami - Yeah, they say that good judgement comes from experience - experience that often comes from poor judgement.
I've climbed a fair number of mountains on the Island, but I've never noticed a reference to the Red Pillar which, in my opinion, has some of the best rock (as in solid - perhaps some sort of mutant limestone) that I've come across.
Sorry I haven't posted most of my Squamish slides, including those of Daryl & I climbing Grand Wall, but my ancient computer doesn't seem to like it when I try to post photos. Some other time, perhaps.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2014 - 02:11pm PT
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Perry- here is the quote from Alex's 8a.nu card
14-08-25 7a+ The University Wall Squamish Traditional Solo!! Long time dream, finally done. Maybe 2 hours car to car, including the Roman Chimneys and the barefoot stroll down. So psyched! ***
If he's saying 7a+ then he didn't do the shadow pitch. Still ridiculously impressive!!
I'm not sure if there was any publicity on this one. Maybe his buds making the film did capture it, or maybe he just did it for himself. I think i remember hearing he did half dome without telling anyone the first time as well.
Stewart- we'd love to seem them!!
Glenn, i think i have an answer for you. Next post.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 30, 2014 - 02:24pm PT
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Wow to all of this!
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Stewart
Trad climber
Courtenay, B.C.
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Aug 30, 2014 - 03:03pm PT
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Hi Mike: I keep trying to post photos, but it appears as though the only option I have to perform the deed is to use Outlook Express, and that wretched program refuses to allow me to do so.
I'll keep trying to find an alternative, but it appears at the moment I'll need to scrape up a bunch of cash that I don't have to spring for newer technology.
Alas.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2014 - 03:31pm PT
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From Squamish Climber's guide by Anders Ourom
Glenn, I think your image is from the FA of Third Abortion. But the only weakness in that area would be the ramp just right of rainy day dream away.
Nina on Rainy Day Dream Away 10c
You can kind of see the roof they must be over in the right corner of the image. That's why Glenn's image seems a little off, the camera is probably off the wall a couple feet and the lip of the roof is at least 3 feet wide. The corner looks narrower than it really is.
I hope you don't mind Glenn, but i stole the image and punched it up a bit. I also rotated it to match Andy's image for my next piece of evidence.
Tim Auger on Third Abortion 5.6 A2
You can see the distinct ragged edge of the wall between Pitch In Time and the corner of Sloppy Seconds.
The upper crack of pitch in time is what throws you off, but if you look at it closely, you'll realize that is the top of the ledge, and those are the fracture lines of the dagger that is "pit" and "ss". It dropped a bit before it wedged in the corner.
Hopefully Mh2 doesn't mind me reposting this image for comparison
Here is the original orientation of this classic image.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2014 - 03:42pm PT
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Stew: I hear ya. I would be happy to post them if you could get them to me... I have family in Campbell River?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 30, 2014 - 04:05pm PT
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Thanks, Mike. A look at my scanning notes suggests photo is probably by Tony Ellis (Amphitheatre, Lower Acrophobe)and not by me. Tony and I and Tim messed around on the Bulletheads a fair bit, so that is a good possibility.
I've asked Tim about this photo and he doesn't remember. I've asked Tony and he doesn't remember either.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Aug 30, 2014 - 11:19pm PT
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Mystery solved!!!!!!!!!
My first reaction on seeing this pic was Kiddie Korner. So I went to the photo bank and located the attached pic of Big Jim, near the bottom of KK. The tree behind him, with the big right-forking branch, is clearly the same as the one in Glenn's shot.
On the day in question Big Jim and I started up KK and after a couple of pitches headed right, and climbed a new and highly forgettable variation, which we called Baby Doll. When starting to follow the last pitch, Big Jim forgot the extra part of our rack at the belay ledge, a fact which only became known to me back at the car. Fortunately most, if not all, were soft Euro pins. Booty for someone, BITD.
However, although the main part of the mystery has been solved, several other important questions remain:
Where/why did Tim get that awful jacket?
Why are they carrying an extra rope? Were they planning some long rappels? Intending to leave a fixed rope somewhere? Hoping to score the booty left by Big Jim and myself? Training for the Nose?
Why did they have a white Sterling style rope in a time when Goldline prevailed?
Will any self-respecting climber ever admit to doing this climb with Tim, when he was wearing such a hideous jacket?
MH [lurk, lurk] is currently borrowing Tim's Squamish notebook, and might be able to track down some details of the ascent, now we know for sure what the route was.
Big Mike.
Ingenious solution, but sorry, no banana for you today. :) :)
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 30, 2014 - 11:24pm PT
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Great, Hamish! My guess is that this was done during a mass ascent of K-K by the VOC. Tony Ellis and I were on a couple such assults (reminiscent of the old photos showing "thousands" of Seattle Mountaineers trudging up Baker in the early part of the 20th century). One of those trips was memorable because one of the leaders was very hung over from the hard night before.
My wife points out that the climber is not necessarily Tim, but could be me. I've been told I had hair in those days, and I certainly had several wretched jackets of that sort.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Aug 30, 2014 - 11:34pm PT
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No, that's definitely Tim. Check those "bedroom eyes".
Mass VOC assault on KK? or on anything? on the Cecil? Now that's scarey.....
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MH2
climber
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Aug 31, 2014 - 09:00am PT
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Tim Auger on Kiddie Korner in the 60s. Photo by Tony Ellis?
Thanks for settling the location question, hamie.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 31, 2014 - 09:41am PT
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"Bedroom eyes"? That could be me...
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Free solo U-wall
2 hrs ish, car to car
Holy BEEP!!!!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Exactly!
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Did you see Marcs reply?
Had to make one last day trip up Slesse, solo. The triple link-up.
East Pillar 2 hrs
Navigator 1hr 15
NEB 1hr 10min
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Outstanding!
That's the scheisse right there!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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OK, so on a far less heroic note, here's a Squamish soloing story.
Back in the day, when I considered a certain amount of third classing an obligatory part of my regimen, I was at Murrin and after heading up to the Horror's Wall via Genesis for a couple laps on The Milk Toaster decided to climb Washington Bullets.
I was never big on on sight solos and had in the past, dialled this gem and climbed it unroped a few times.
Now the key phrase here is, in the past.
I headed up the initial moves in the cool of the late afternoon reviewing the mental archives for a recollection of the crux moves thinking it was pretty solid.
Well, I committed to the crux and quickly realized I didn't have it dialled at all and ended up hornswoggled in the middle of the business.
A wave of fear washed over me and I climbed those last few moves in a substantially less than controlled manner and wobbled on to the top having more survived the route than climbed it.
I sat there for a few minutes, nigh nauseous at having made such a mess of it and coming way closer to making a mess in the boulders than I wanted to.
It still stands out as one of my closest calls and the stupidest things I'd ever done.
Don't think I've climbed that route since, at least not unroped.
There you have it.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Well Tami, like most of us who post here, you're definitely not immune from occasional bouts of egregious (and vapid) windbaggery either!!!... :)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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As RushMaster Yabo once said "I get really strong when I start to shake."
How do you spell ADRENALINE!?!
Hard to have fun in a five alarm fire! LOL
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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A wave of fear washed over me and I climbed those last few moves in a substantially less than controlled manner and wobbled on to the top having more survived the route than climbed it.
What's always seemed weird to me is the difference in mental/physical response depending on whether things go to sh#t while soloing (as Perry just described), or whether it happens on a roped climb where there was no intent to put oneself in danger.
You solo something and wind up almost losing it, and the response is what Perry describes -- nauseous at almost dying so stupidly.
But think about the times when you've climbed into a situation where you realize you've suddenly entered the solo zone and find yourself in the same pickle. Maybe you can't get pro where you thought you could, and the climb gets too hard for you, and you've just messed up an irreversible sequence, and you'll hit the ground or a ledge if you blow it... but somehow you go way inside yourself and find the strength to pull through.
And the response? I don't know about anyone else, but for me it's always been kind of a feeling of being proud of myself for holding it together and finding mental or physical strength I didn't know I had. Instead of the shame felt when the same thing happens during an intentional solo.
Weird.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Ghost,
I've had a few less than edifying experiences with a rope on too.
Some day I'll share the story about Henley Quits in 76.
Now that was stupid!
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MH2
climber
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I had the same experience as Perry on Washington Bullets. With the difference that I was roped. For me a good lesson for my older self to not trust my younger self.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2014 - 07:12pm PT
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Very nice posts indeed. Thanks for the stories Perry and Tami!
I was totally wrong the other day about Glenn's photo... Shows u how much time i've spent at the bulletheads lately. I was up there today.
Phil on Slot Machine
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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"2 hrs ish car to car." I think that it took us 2 hrs ish summit to car! UWall now seems to have also [with Serra V] reached Mummery's stage three, "An easy day for a lady".
Has anyone done a sit-start yet? Maybe leave that crumb for the next generation.
Chief. Is Henley Quits the same as Stichter Quits [aka Black Tide] at J Tree?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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One day I was foolishly run-out on Tryfan. As I reached the crux, with no pro for miles, the rain and hail began to pound down. I tried the crux several times, with no luck. The rock was turning to snot, my fingers to ice and my arms to jello. I looked down, and wondered if it would be better to jump off, or to try again and fall off. I tried again, and finally found something for my tips. Lesson learned? It ain't over 'til it's over.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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That's true Tami, but it didn't usually hail in July. It's not Alberta.
Here's a pic of my friend Tom, taken on the way down.
Yes, that's rain pouring down the rock behind him. Next stop--hitch hike to the PYG in the Pass.
Tom and another old climbing partner Dave joined me on the Camino in Spain earlier this year. A reunion of sorts.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Hamie, do you have a photo of you from that era?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2014 - 11:26pm PT
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Classic pic Hamie!!
Gf- Stewarts computer is fighting him! Anyone know any computer wiz's in Courtnay?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Wales in the rain; I have a few memories of that too :-D
Likewise. First time there was the day after a howling storm. Trees down on the roads and everything soaked. No problem according to my host, who said "Well it's not actually raining now, just a bit of breeze, so we'll be fine. Maybe just climb the normal descent route. It'll be a bit wet, but no problem."
Bit of a breeze, my ass!
A bit wet, my ass!
About a hundred feet up the descent route (which was a fairly stout 4th class chimney), even my friend had to admit defeat. The chimney was a waterfall, and not only that, but the wind was so strong that the water was flowing upward. No sh#t. The only time I've ever seen rain falling up.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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I looked down, and wondered if it would be better to jump off, or to try again and fall off.
I was larking about on some rocks at Lighthouse Park once, not at Juniper Point but closer to the lighthouse, just east of Jackpine. I climbed up a cracked dyke that ran for 50 feet or so off the beach. About 40 feet up I found myself in a situation with wasps in the crack above me and, when I tried to downclimb, also wasps in the crack below me.
I tried to psych up for the 40 foot jump off into shallow water and thought getting stung would be the better choice. Then I thought that getting stung and pitching off for a 40 footer onto barnacles would also be pretty bad. Fortunately there was a small tree on the other side of the gully about 4 feet lower than me and seven or 8 feet away and a foothold on the dyke nearby in the right direction so after weighing the options I switched feet on the dyke and made the orangutan leap sideways and down across the gully and latched the tree at full extension as I fell by it.
Whew.
In hindsight you can carefully slot your fingers in next to wasps and as long as you don't pinch them they don't really seem to get too worked about it.
Canary at Castle Rock and the 10d next to 13 Shutouts at Skaha are both climbs that seem to have wasps or yellowjackets fixed permanently in place thru September and October. Later on in fact I got zapped by a yellowjacket in the soft fleshy part right between the middle and ring fingers on my right hand while backing down from a buzzing crack on Canary.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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In response to massive public demand, well two requests from Tami and Glenn Woodward, [ha ha, I think he meant Glenn Wayward :)] here are a couple of shots from long ago. The picture quality is poor, as cameras and film had only just been invented, but not yet perfected.
The clean-cut version. Ivy Sepulchre, Llanberris. Note the sling over flake for pro, and the guidebook in the back pocket.
The beatnik version. Harrison's Rocks.
Sorry about the continued thread drift.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Let's go with Glenn Woodwood for now HAHAHAHAHA!!!!
Given his current project, maybe it should be Glenn Wordsmith.
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MH2
climber
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Fun drift.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Re Alex Honnold's free solo of U Wall (and some comments upthread).
Alex seems to have remained pretty low key about his effort and in the context of the Alpinist interview and IMHO can't be accused of "spraying".
Are we guilty of sensationalizing his effort?
Maybe.
It's all a matter of perspective.
Maybe to Alex, it's not that big a deal.
By all accounts, something carefully planned, premeditated and carried out in a controlled manner.
In the greater context of his soloing trajectory, maybe not as hard or outrageous as other things he's done, Moonlight Buttress for one.
From my perspective, U Wall is one of the best routes in Squamish and The Big Kahuna around these parts.
Leading the whole thing free was a career high point and the notion of being up there without a rope then or now, nigh unfathomable and essentially, life in another dimension.
Alex's solo will long be regarded as historically significant to Squamish climbing as Croft's solo of Astroman was to Yosemite climbing.
A definitive paradigm shift.
Alex commented that he wished more people were soloing at this level to "share the psyche".
To the best of my knowledge, only three people have 3rd classed Astroman, not many more the Rostrum, both routes mere fluff compared to what Alex is doing of recent.
I suspect it'll be a long while before someone else hikes the Crucifix, the CH on Sentinel, Freeway or the Northern Lights.
Until then, (and it may be a while) Alex is in a league of his own, physically and psychologically.
Respect.
PB
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2014 - 05:41pm PT
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Yes Perry. He's in a class of his own for certain!
Fun drift indeed. Thanks for egging Hamie on Glenn!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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That Harrison Rocks photo - is that a Brylcreem Joe Brown helmet?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Yeah, it's the early "Littledab'llduya" model. Birds luv'd it. A big improvement over stuffing a sock under your toque.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Hamie, great photos! Thanks.
Honnold's ascent of U-Wall is something that I never, never would have believed to be possible. Amazing. Does anyone know if he did the Shadow?
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Tricouni,
No, Alex didn't 3rd class the Shadow.
That's still almost unthinkable, even for Alex.
PB
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2014 - 12:07pm PT
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Seriously.. How could you feel secure on the shadow????!!!!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Seriously.. How could you feel secure on the shadow????!!!!
Beats me. I felt insecure there, even on aid...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2014 - 03:57pm PT
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Lol Glenn! I bet!!
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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How secure does the Phoenix feel? I can't imagine doing that without a rope either (for that matter I couldn't do it with a rope).
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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I found an old photo of Perry
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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With brown hair
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2014 - 03:56pm PT
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Classic pic!
Thanks Pinckbrown!
What pitch is this? I'm guessing moving to montana?
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MH2
climber
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Further right.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Looks like Java Jive p1
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MH2
climber
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Also could be the one just right of Java Jive.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Java jive has corners and overlaps, its further right
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Yeah I don't think java jive?
Who's done this one?
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MH2
climber
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I think I did that this past week end. Don't want to say where because of trespassing issues.
I think the old photo of Chief might be Miss Led, a bit right of Java Jive, FFA by Perry Beckham and Hamish Fraser, 1982.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Sep 10, 2014 - 12:30am PT
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Looks like yours truly on Java Jive during FA, circa 77-78 but could be Mislead.
Note Whillans harness, Chouinaird hammer, probably a 1/4" drill in back pocket, EB,s, plaid shirt,head band.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Sep 10, 2014 - 10:04am PT
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Two hours summit to car.
Nice pants, Mr. Woodward!
On another, completely different note........has anyone talked to, shared a coffee/beer with, or seen BIG JIM recently? Report please.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sep 10, 2014 - 12:41pm PT
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I've always liked that photo, Hamish!
Left to right: Dan Tate, Hamish Mutch, Glenn Woodsworth, Tim Auger
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Sep 10, 2014 - 08:46pm PT
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Hamie,
That's a CLASSIC photo.
Ms. Chief and I see Big Jim and Joan at least once or twice a week.
Both are well.
I expect to see Jim at Psyche Ledge on Saturday evening.
PB
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Sep 10, 2014 - 11:00pm PT
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Perry
Good to hear that they are both doing well.
Please say hi to Big Jim for me, at the party. Wish I could be there!
Thanks.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sep 10, 2014 - 11:16pm PT
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Hi Perry,
I'd love to come, too, but I'll be at a 70th birthday party for another "old" Coast Mtns climber (he didn't climb much at Squamish, thought). Everything comes up at the same time....
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Sep 12, 2014 - 12:06am PT
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Hamie, will do.
Sorry neither you or Tricouni can make it.
There's always our annual Winter Solstice if either of you can make it.
PB
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Sep 13, 2014 - 12:11pm PT
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Cyril Sneer sneakily slithers skyward via this seductive slot somewhere leftward of the Squaw.
Anyone know it?
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Sep 17, 2014 - 08:58pm PT
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Climbed Freeway on the Chief on Monday with my friends Will Stanhope and Brad Ward!
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Sep 17, 2014 - 08:59pm PT
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Will, making it look way too easy...
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Sep 17, 2014 - 09:02pm PT
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Brad, a day after doing the Sheriff's Badge, on Freeway!
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Sep 17, 2014 - 09:03pm PT
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Hanging out in one of my favourite places anywhere!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2014 - 09:07pm PT
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So sick Wayne!! Thanks for posting those!
Kieran- nice to see Rupert killing it! We gonna c u on the ditch?
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Sep 17, 2014 - 11:12pm PT
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Wayne, how did you find the Sherrifs Badge? I did it a couple of months back...
Nick
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Sep 17, 2014 - 11:59pm PT
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Hey Jim Brennan!
Sorry to be so slow in replying to your request for some photos. Yes, we had a grand adventure. Perhaps the best way to describe it is to steal your own words,"The higher we got, the freer we became." I always believed that we would make it [eventually!], but I was still a little bit surprised that we actually did.
Here are some shots of each of us, which you may not have seen before. I don't have a good one of Dan climbing, but be assured that he did his fair share of leading etc.
Tim.
Hamie. What? Me worried?
Glenn.
Dan.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 18, 2014 - 12:16am PT
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Awesome Hamie et all, thanks!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2014 - 03:10am PT
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Hamie! Thank you so much sir! Those shots are epic and historical all wrapped in one. Very nice.
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MH2
climber
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Sep 18, 2014 - 07:18am PT
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OMG!!!
Later is waaaaaay better than never, Hamish.
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Jstod
Trad climber
North Vancouver
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Sep 18, 2014 - 08:07am PT
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Wow Wayne, way to go! We chatted with you briefly a couple weeks back as you were approaching Angels Crest - how did that ascent go? You're a total inspiration!
JS
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Sep 18, 2014 - 11:55am PT
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Love the photos, Hamie! Thanks for posting those!
I haven't done The Sheriff's Badge, yet, Fishboy. Brad did it the day before our Freeway ascent. Hopefully I'll get to it this Fall, or in the Spring.
Thanks for your kind words Jstod. If Freeway is one of the best climbs for an adaptive Squamish ascent, Angels Crest is one of the more difficult. On one pitch I had to jug at a 45* angle for about 40 meters to avoid being lowered into the forest. Jugging back up through the trees is a fantastic strategy if one likes getting their line tangled in branches. We had a stellar time up there, none the less.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2014 - 12:09pm PT
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Was that angel's crack Wayne? It would have been your second pitch!
Edit: ya sweet photos BJ! Thanks
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Sep 18, 2014 - 12:37pm PT
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Angel's crack wasn't bad at all, Mike. The pitch that I was writing about is up quite a bit higher. None of it was too difficult. I really loved being able to free climb two pitches in a row.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 23, 2014 - 12:17pm PT
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Here are some pictures from the last couple months in and around Squamish. Due to injuries, I didn't get out this year near as much as I would have liked, but I still found time to get on some classics and keep it a little more mellow.
RyanD on Eurasian Eyes with Remy.
I've been wanting to climb this thing for years, and finally got around to it a couple weeks ago. Complete with backflip off the top.
Some of you met my brother Caleb at Psych Ledge the other day. He just moved out here and is getting into climbing. For his first day on a rope, I took him up Rock On and Butt Face. He sent everything.
We were moving pretty fast the whole day, and there were three parties that let us pass them. I couldn't get a shot of Caleb on the crux of this pitch, so I took one of myself, with him and another party below.
I then taught him the art of the finger lock on Exasperator.
We bailed off the Pillar due to slow parties ahead of us.
I don't usually take selfies, but when I do, it's cause I'm in a rad position on my onsight solo of Hairpin.
RyanD on Squealing Pork for his birthday.
And here are a couple shots my wife got yesterday of me on Rug Munchers at Chek. I hadn't been on it since sometime last year, so I could not remember the beta at all. I figured it out on my first attempt, gave it a good go on TR, and for my redpoint burn, I made it to the second last clip before pumping out. Maybe I can get it next time?
I then spent about 15 minutes trying to get my knot untied. I need to start using that double bowline.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 23, 2014 - 06:17pm PT
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Glad you liked them Tami :) Hopefully we get a couple more decent days before this weather becomes the norm. I finally feel like I'm getting strong again.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 23, 2014 - 10:24pm PT
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Nice shots Nathan!
Double David Bowieline is the perfect knot for the bolt clipping poofter inside all of us, especially when it's humid and ur doggin' up at chipamus glueland on should have been forgotten wall .
Let me know when u want to go back and tie a few :-)
Weather looks sweet after Thursday.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 23, 2014 - 10:26pm PT
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I didn't notice a sign on the actual rock, although there is one on the seawall saying it's illegal. I'm not sure where Dick Culbert and the OGs originally climbed up, or where other people usually go up, but I climbed directly below and slightly left of where I am in the picture. It wasn't hard, a couple moves of 5.8, maybe 9 getting above that slight overhang. It was actually sketchier higher up, cause there was more grass than rock.
There were a couple people watching and taking pictures, one woman asked me to climb out of view so that she could get a shot of the thing without me in it.
Ryan - I reeeeeaallly want to get back on that thing. I was so stoked on how far I actually got yesterday, way further than I expected. I've been going over the moves in my head so that I don't have to try and relearn them next time I'm there. Twelve moves from that jug in the middle gets me over the top. I think I got it. I'm down to go this weekend, or as soon as the weather allows!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Sep 23, 2014 - 11:08pm PT
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There were 3 or 4 routes on Siwash, more or less one on each side. The one in the photo was the easiest, low to mid fifth. Lotsa fun times, even a few good tales. Tricouni, remember Halloween? How could anyone forget!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2014 - 12:09am PT
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Great stuff guys! Thanks Nate! So awesome to see some action on this thread while i'm away.
Sorry the weather sucks!!
Hope it clears up soon!!
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MH2
climber
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Sep 24, 2014 - 07:20am PT
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Yes. Good action, Nate. You cover a lot of ground of many kinds. The photos have good personality.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sep 24, 2014 - 12:45pm PT
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Hamie, I certainly do remember the Halloween escapade. Trying to find a photo of the aftermath.
Part of the problem with Siwash Rock was getting to it. At low tide, you could walk across. At mid-tide you could wade across.
At higher tide, you could swim, or do a Tyrolean traverse. Rather ass-backwards, in this case!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 24, 2014 - 01:37pm PT
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Awesome!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sep 24, 2014 - 06:10pm PT
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Yes, Tami, the harbor is empty.
And to keep this relevant, if you go round the point just to the right of the ship and keep going, you come to SQUAMISH!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Sep 24, 2014 - 10:52pm PT
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BITD, way BITD, things were not quite as they are today.........
1. The OGs were YGs, and they ruled the world.
2. There was no seawall and walking path to Siwash.
3. Ladders were made of wood, not metal.
On Nov 1st, 19-- a large photo similar to the one below appeared in the Vancouver Sun. Someone's mother had phoned them and said "I hear that Siwash Rock is for sale." The paper investigated.
Their caption read:
"Enterprising pranksters went to a lot of trouble to put this sign on Siwash Rock. The "For Sale" sign specifies a level view lot, which is stretching the truth a little. Another sign at the base of the tree reads "Open House"."
Climbing Siwash in the dark is a bit tricky, especially if it is your first time up--or so I have heard....
Removing the sign proved to be somewhat of a challenge for the park employees. They had to float some ladders around to the rock, and then carefully [very] remove the sign.
After they had hauled their ladders back up to the parking lot, it was pretty much Miller Time.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sep 24, 2014 - 10:56pm PT
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Hamie, I'm glad you've got photos of that; I can't find mine. Nice memories of that night...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 24, 2014 - 11:44pm PT
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BWAHAHAHAHAHAAHHA!!
The young gangsters getting it done and having fun.
I like how you happened to be there right on time to get a shot of the Park Narcs floundering Hamie. Classic!!
BTW, u boys still rule the world :-)
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Sep 25, 2014 - 02:14am PT
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hey there say, Ryan D... and all, just saw your post, here, (well, last, until the spam-post that got in here) and:
wow, i NEED to read up on the squamish stories and photos...
this is REALLY NEAT!!!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Sep 25, 2014 - 05:14pm PT
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hey there say, Gnome ofthe diabase, ... thank you so much...
am starting to make more time, finally, again for the ol' taco...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 28, 2014 - 09:50am PT
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First time I climbed Siwash, March or April of 92 or 93, we took a raft because the tide was high. On the decent of the rock someone kicked off a loose block from right near the fixed pin. The block bounced, hit our raft, and knocked it out to sea. Danny C saved our bacon with an impromptu polar bear swim out to get the raft.
Midnight fun!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 29, 2014 - 11:34am PT
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Siwash?
Is that politically correct to use anymore?
I looked it up online and it's considered a derogatory adjective, not unlike Squaw.
What people consider derogatory changes over time, but it just meant "man" in Chinook jargon, same with Klooch or Kloochman meaning woman...
Or consider the terminology shift, where to avoid calling slow kids idiots or dumb, the phrase "retarded development" was introduced as a politically correct, inoffensive replacement term. Didn't take long before retard and retarded were considered pejorative.
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MH2
climber
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Sep 29, 2014 - 04:18pm PT
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Good to see Donini getting some sun up here.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 29, 2014 - 08:56pm PT
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Does this response suggest we shouldn't question or abandon outdated or inappropriate choice of language?
No, but we should consider where words come from and where they are going, instead of just thinking about what meaning they might have today.
Personally I see special going the same way as retarded has, to the point where I wonder if in 5 years or so the Special Olympics will have to change their name because it will have become a slur.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Sep 29, 2014 - 10:39pm PT
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Well, shame on me. I never thought about what Siwash meant. I would have guessed that it was the name of a local band or family group.....
Anyhow, to lighten things up a little here are some shots of climbers on SR. This is not really off topic as SR [when still legal] and Murrin were our poorman's answer to the Bluffs etc. You guys today are sooooo lucky.
Un Poseur
Find the belayer..
I think that it's Bruce McKnight belaying.
Now find that belayer.....
Lots of cheap real estate and empty lots across the water. If only.................
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MH2
climber
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Sep 29, 2014 - 10:42pm PT
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Vavaaah.....Boom!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sep 29, 2014 - 11:33pm PT
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Nice set of photos of the rock.
By the way, the original name for the feature is Lhilhxí7elsh.
The SR name dates back at least to the 1860s and was popularized by Pauline Johnson in "Legends of Vancouver" (1911 or so). The name "Siwash Rock" was officially adopted in 1937. Here's what the geographic names database has to say about Lhilhxí7elsh:
Lhilhxí7elsh (Siwash Rock) is named after an expectant father who was purifying himself in preparation for the birth of his child. As he swam in the waters close to shore the Xáays (Transformer Brothers) approached by canoe but were unable to break the mans intense meditative state. After Xáays learned of the mans intentions they commended his commitment to his family by immortalizing him as a stone figure. His wife S7ens and child were also transformed to stone and stand today beneath the Lions Gate Bridge in the First Narrows of Burrard Inlet. These figures exemplify the importance of family. (Source: December 2011 from: Cultural Journey Sea-to-Sky Corridor website, Squamish and Lil'wat First Nations
I would have verified this by checking he relevant First Nations web page, but it is down right now, so this will have to do.
Hamie, thanks for looking for the ski ascent photos....
Glenn
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Sep 30, 2014 - 07:32am PT
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bump
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 30, 2014 - 08:01am PT
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Glenn, my copy of the Stó:lõ-Coast Salish Historical Atlas shows the name of SR being Stxiels, Man Rock, name literally means "standing up".
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Sep 30, 2014 - 09:12am PT
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Glenn
Great legend, thanks.
Gnome
Please delete your silly post. PM sent.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Sep 30, 2014 - 09:13am PT
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Reel Rock tonight anyone?
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AerialElf
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Sep 30, 2014 - 09:59am PT
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I'll be at the Valley Uprising show. :)
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AerialElf
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Sep 30, 2014 - 10:01am PT
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Was wondering if I had a photo to post here.....and I think this one might be fun - as a different way to climb in Squamish.
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AerialElf
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Sep 30, 2014 - 04:44pm PT
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Yes, Tami - Zombie "Woof."
BJ - there are lots of wild and fun things to do on aerial silks. :)
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Sep 30, 2014 - 05:33pm PT
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And in aerial silk too, no doubt.....:) :)
Valley Uprising will be amazing. Jealous.
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AerialElf
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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oh, so it's not because people liked to bark while climbing it? heh
Chewbacca on the gobsmacking wall is a great route to practice your wookiee calls while you climb . I believe it makes the climbing even more fun. :)
I like this thread too! As a new resident in Squamish, it's interesting to see the old and new pics and stories, and get to know the climbing community here. Just haven't had a chance to read all 8000 posts yet. :)
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Belongs on the
Top of the1st page
Top flight !
Big Bump !
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Hey Squammers!
Check out the rad new cover of our new phone book over here in P.R.
Really captures the "essense" of just how rad it can be here...sometimes.
Betcher jealous!! HAHA.
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MH2
climber
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Maybe I should be jealous. It would depend on how far you need to walk.
At least I don't need to lug a pad.
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MH2
climber
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Also, inexplicable. Dropped from the sky? Long ways from a road.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2014 - 07:40am PT
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Awesome pics Hamie! Thanks.. Nice pic of the silks too. You look familiar elf. Do you know Relic?? Hope you guys enjoyed the show the other night. I know i sure did when we caught it in the ditch!!
Cool pic Sac too. Still gotta make it to pr! Hopefully next spring.
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AerialElf
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Yes, Big Mike, I am a friend of Relic's and we met twice - once at Smoke Bluffs and a second time at the Psyche Ledge. You have some great pics of your trip - nice panos! I'm about to leave myself for some traveling (and also Ryan and Relic)....heading to Utah for a few weeks...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Fresh from PR
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2014 - 11:09am PT
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Nice AE. I remember it well, and you are exactly who i thought you were. Have fun with the boys! Don't let them skip vegas at the end of the month! The get-together is gonna be a blast!!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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I think it's granite, but I was working on the other side of the valley, didn't get time to check.
Seems like the biggest issue to development is the boat ride to get to the roads to get to the base though. Same with most other fjords in BC.
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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OPO... Assuming your not talking Prince Rupert.
Alot of rock round here like that (other PR)... "granitic" in nature, but pretty "fry-able" in-fact. We call it "Higgyland Rock", as there is a small sport crag in town w/ same rock.
Always worth a look , eh?
I'm guessing...... Britain River? Low elevation long shot.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Theodosia, 15 km
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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something peculiar happened on the smoke bluff connection yesterday..
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MH2
climber
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For sure! Never saw the bus stop up there.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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The first thing I think of when lookin' at that shot is how I'd plant that piece of cream :-D
Too funny, Tami. I know exactly what you mean. Had similar thoughts, though it has been 19 years since I planted my last tree.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2014 - 08:04am PT
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Awesome Kieran!! The monkeys are sending!!!
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Nice Brownie.
Here's a long shot...does anyone know anything about the two aid routes Bald Egos and I Shot The Sheriff?
Ive seen the film Beyond Gravity which has a segment on BE and know that it has had a second ascent by Matt Maddaloni....also the lower crux has been repeated by Nathan Kukathas. It's a striking line that heads up left of U Wall onto Pan Wall, earning it the only grade VI route around here. It took Maddaloni 5 days to complete.
I know nothing about ISTS. I want to climb it this December...
Also, I read somewhere that Perry has an unfinished route up the right side of the Badge....anyone know anything about that? Perry, if ya reading this, wanna go finish it?
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Oct 12, 2014 - 11:28am PT
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Slightly off topic, but here's a video from Lynn Canyon this past summer. I met these guys there, and ended up getting a starring role.
Also, it was really hot this summer, too hot to make the drive up to Squamish really worth it, so this is what I spent a fair amount of time doing. I'm the guy in the white shorts with shoes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPx1OShpzoU&list=UUd5xLBi_QU6w7RGm5TTznyQ
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slhughes
climber
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Oct 13, 2014 - 07:07pm PT
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attention squamunairds. SAS are doing a party. vote for your favourite bolted crack on their facebook page, or squamishclimbing.com
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MH2
climber
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Oct 17, 2014 - 09:00pm PT
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How did it get from Wednesday to Friday, Jim?
Great that Bruce is back!
Some lives are full of egrets.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Oct 17, 2014 - 09:16pm PT
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Looks like the classic South Crack above Tenaya Lake.
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MH2
climber
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Oct 17, 2014 - 09:24pm PT
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As it should.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Oct 17, 2014 - 09:37pm PT
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Thats some "Heavy Duty" vegetation management!
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Oct 17, 2014 - 11:50pm PT
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Thats some "Heavy Duty" vegetation management!
My sediments excatly...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 22, 2014 - 06:42pm PT
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Today's bump is brought to you by chickenheads
I see they had a special event in honor of Tricouni at the GSA conference that just wrapped up, by the way.
May he bag peaks and geologize for years to come!
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Sonic
Trad climber
Boulder, Co
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Oct 28, 2014 - 12:10pm PT
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climbing bump
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bm
Social climber
pluto
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Oct 29, 2014 - 10:01am PT
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Well in the finest climber tradition of dragging names thru the mud, it seems a regular pos(t)er on this thread was once upon a time involved in the film industry, and in a climbing capacity no less!
I hadn't watched the uber-cheezzzzy climbing flick K2 since it was in the cinema haus, and the acting is even worse than the vapid plot. The climbing scenes, however, (in the Anderson River group and the Waddington Range) are the only redeeming features of this major stinker (check out the ratings and comments on Rotten Tomatoes).
So, would the involved party (see K2 klimbing kredits below) care to tell some stories and answer some key questions like,
1) How did a duffel bag full of gear get left at the base of the climb? (the one that Edwards/Spagnut found when they did their ascent)
2) What the hell did Grimace do without his purple leggings?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 30, 2014 - 09:29am PT
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Nice pics bm TFPU
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2014 - 06:51pm PT
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I miss bmacd..
Bruce Kay?? Cool! Thanks for that. Any comment Bruce?
Thanks for that smoke bluffs shot Andy! Looking good!
Nice bump Dru.
I know i've been slacking here lately... I promise to make up for it soon!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2014 - 03:39pm PT
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What the heck happened to this thread?? Where is that big mike guy?? Doesn't he climb in Squamish anymore??
It's dry here today.. Sorta.. ;)
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Love the colours of those leaves!
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MH2
climber
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Never saw that view before, Mike. It's a good one.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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I just saw Lurker Kyle and Nina on their way to Red Rocks. They had that stoke and now their kit is complete. Happy trails for one of Squamishes' coolest couples.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 10, 2014 - 11:09am PT
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BIG MIKE BUMP!
Hey, not really Squamish, except I saw Marc-Andre and Brette do a slideshow here in da Wack last week. Marc mentioned that when he went up to do Navigator Wall on Slesse south peak he "could only find one previous trip report online" about it - Darin's on cascadeclimbers, I'm pretty sure.
I know the route gets done infrequently but from what I remember MH2 also did it around 10 years ago. So, MH2 is that correct? If so can you post some pics and stories?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 10, 2014 - 11:59am PT
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How did a duffel bag full of gear get left at the base of the climb? (the one that Edwards/Spagnut found when they did their ascent)
And why did we find a whole helicopter sling full of K2 gear on the glacier on our way from the Plummer hut to Mt. Mercator
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MH2
climber
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Nov 10, 2014 - 12:12pm PT
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Since it was a BIG MIKE BUMP, I'll carry over his pic from the previous page:
Mike Spagnutt once wanted us to do Navigator but for reasons I don't recall we redirected to the Nesakwatch.
The only story I know is Bryan Burdo telling me about being up there and bad weather closing in and him starting to worry, when Pete Doorish calmly set up to wait it out. The Bivuoac King, Bryan called him. I don't know if that was the FA or an attempt.
I seem to remember Greg Child describing an ascent. Like certain other Cascades routes, it may be that no two parties do it the same.
It seems likely that the name comes from the 1988 Vincent Ward film, The Navigator: A Medieval Odyssey
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 10, 2014 - 01:21pm PT
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It seems likely that the name comes from the 1988 Vincent Ward film, The Navigator: A Medieval Odyssey
I thought it came from the job description of the guy who flew the plane into the mountain, personally
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Nov 10, 2014 - 04:14pm PT
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And why did we find a whole helicopter sling full of K2 gear on the glacier on our way from the Plummer hut to Mt. Mercator
Did you climb Mercator on that trip? If so, it would have been the 2nd ascent.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2014 - 06:24pm PT
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Thanks guys! You guys rule! Not a great day, thanks for the bump.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 10, 2014 - 07:59pm PT
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Thanks guys! You guys rule! Not a great day, thanks for the bump.
We've all been where you are Mike. And I'm tempted to say "So don't worry, we all did okay." But you've met us all, so you know that's bullsh#t, and that in fact you're doomed. You're going to turn out just like all of us wrinkly old f*#ks that haunt Supertopo.
Did you climb Mercator on that trip? If so, it would have been the 2nd ascent.
Good question! What in tarnation were you doing going way over there? We were pretty sure no one would stumble on our toxic waste dump overvthere....
Any good loot in the mercator net load?
Did we climb Mercator? Ummm... I'm not sure, but I think not quite. Been a while, but I think it started storming. Or maybe it was getting dark? We had a Scottish physicist tied in between us, so maybe it had something to do with the ultimate uncertainty of summits?
I really don't remember. It was a trip organized by the Alpine Club of Canada, and populated with a lot of people who seemed really old to me at the time. The ACC had hired a couple of guides to shepherd the Club members up some easy peaks in the region -- Karl Nagy (RIP brother) and Barry Blanchard, I think -- and somehow Don Serl and I got to tag along on the Club's nickel.
And one day Mr. Serl said: "Tom, would you like to climb Mt. Mercator?" And Tom, likely not knowing the difference between Mt. Mercator and the south face of Mt. Olympus on Mars, said "Aye lad, why not?" And off we went. On the approach we stumbled upon the helo sling, full of stuff we didn't need, didn't want, and didn't have the capacity to take home anyway.
I did grab an ancient ice screw, and a short little bamboo stick with a piece of climbing tape wrapped on the end with a drawing of a movie camera and "K2" written on it. But the rest we left there.
And then Dr. Tom dropped out of sight, but it was okay cuz we'd had the rope fairly tight and he didn't die and we all had a laugh. And then we trudged onward to Mercator and clambered up and up and up, but I think eventually we stopped before we ran out of up.
Don kept track of summits much more religiously than I did, so you could ask him, but I think it started snowing and we decided it would be prudent to start for home while we could still see. But I may be wrong, and perhaps we did make the second ascent. I really don't know.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Nov 10, 2014 - 08:27pm PT
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David, I talked with Surly about Mercator some years ago. He didn't get up it - something about giant schrunds, or difficulties getting off the snow, or something. So it looks as if the peak has had but one ascent. It's a long, long ways from the upper Tellot. I might have a good photo somewhere.
Mike and Sandra, you guys do what you have to do: as D and T say, it'll all work out, somehow. Your friends won't think any the less of you, regardless of how things turn out.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 11, 2014 - 10:24am PT
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something about giant schrunds, or difficulties getting off the snow, or something.
That makes more sense. My memory was of something stopping us, and I thought it had been snow beginning to fall. But I also remembger getting great views of evening light on the Wadd range as we were returning to camp -- which is pretty unlikely if it was snowing.
Whatever. It was a fine day out with the Serl. And the little K2 movie camera drawing on its mini flagpole lived on my desk for a long time after.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2014 - 10:28am PT
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Sh!t happens. I'll probably be better off. Let's leave it out of this thread. Don't delete, but check out Juan's depression deal.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Nov 11, 2014 - 11:05am PT
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Now back to Squamish, 1964.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2014 - 11:12am PT
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Looks like, boomstick maybe?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Nov 11, 2014 - 11:57am PT
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Mike, it is indeed Boomstick Crack, with Arnold Shives. We often soloed it both up and down -- too much hassel rapping it and we generally didn't have a long enough rope to rap straight down.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Nov 12, 2014 - 04:50pm PT
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What to do on a rest day in Squamish? Check out the kite boarders... pretty cool to watch! A few low rez photos from back in September:
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 12, 2014 - 06:58pm PT
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What to do on a rest day in Squamish? Check out the kite boarders...
We did the same thing in August, and stumbled into some sort of world kiteboarding championships, complete with cheering throngs and hyperloud announcers, and film crews, and booths and beer.
Can't remember if I posted any pictures, but here's one...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 12, 2014 - 07:37pm PT
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A lot of those kiteboarders in the shots have a body position where it looks like they are sitting on a toilet, but flying. Ripe for photoshop.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2014 - 03:26pm PT
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Hmmm photoshop eh???
What happened the other day?? I guess i got distracted and then i got home, and the bomb went off...
Let's get things back on track here.
Saturday was fun. Heather and i climbed an extremely wet up up and away lap, and then went to hang out with the boys who was playing on Kahookers.
John on the start of Crime
The crew on the bench
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 13, 2014 - 03:59pm PT
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any signs of ice dribbles around squish yet?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2014 - 04:21pm PT
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Yup. Lots of ice on cliffs in the mornings.. Warming up to +3 or 4 during the day however. High ice would be good. -11 out in wack a chill last night??
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 13, 2014 - 05:44pm PT
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Maybe. Going to look tomorrow.
Is that Dug sitting with his legs crossed in back of that photo?
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Nov 18, 2014 - 04:55pm PT
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Big Mike Bump!
Look who got on the sharp end today..
November 18, cool, dry granite...priceless :-D
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MH2
climber
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Nov 18, 2014 - 05:06pm PT
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High value this time of year. Good to see a picture of Mike in addition to all the ones by him.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2014 - 04:01pm PT
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Not sure who you are referring to Dru but i think it's Grant rolling a smoke on the far right?
Thanks for the pic Saugy!
Yesterday was fun as Saugy mentioned. I led Penny Lane, but had a little slip up above the first crux. Definitely the hardest thing i've led since my injury.
We set up a tr on crime after.
Saugy rapping down Crime of the Century 11c
My fingers are still sore today..
Then Saugy led Up Up and Away, and we toproped Teenage Girls won't blow gorbies. I had to french free both cruxes... Lol
I have lots more pics from last week, just haven't gotten there yet. I'm hoping to have some more time this week.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Nov 20, 2014 - 04:44pm PT
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Someone at UBC's Varsity Outdoor Club recently scanned my 1967 Squamish guide (they were the ones who originally published it). And he asked me for an introduction/retrospective on the guide. Here's the link to both the guide and my comments.
http://www.ubc-voc.com/wiki/Climbers_Guide_to_the_Squamish_Chief
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Nov 20, 2014 - 05:05pm PT
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I believe that Crime of the Century was the only climb I ever did with Peter Croft -- probably in 1978. If I remember correctly (anybody's guess as to what that means), I hung once or twice even on the follow. I remember Peter placing a lot of gear on the lead (I only mention it because, you know), but showing absolute mastery in a way that I had not seen before. It might be purely coincidence that I decided to go back to school the next semester.
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MH2
climber
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Nov 20, 2014 - 05:18pm PT
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Or as Seattle climber John Stoddard told it, "It was a trip watching Croft lead Crime."
With wired stoppers for pro.
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Nov 21, 2014 - 07:46am PT
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And then Big Willy turns up and solos your rig
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 21, 2014 - 09:26am PT
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Speaking of Mercator, I did some photo digging, here's the whole Cataract area, with Mercator at rear I think?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2014 - 10:50am PT
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Grug! Thanks for the story! That thing sucks up nuts, but they would be tough to place on lead!
Mh2- I bet Peter had that thing "wired"! ;)
Greg - you couldn't fit your sausages into Crime of the Century. That's what was wrong :-)
Me Neither! ;)
Rp's Tami?
We don't need no stinkin' Rp's!
Just gobbles up the small cams and offsets..
(We have peanut offsets now..) ;)
Takes a great Tricam too..
Yes, rp's are still great for really thins stuff..
It's a fun c1 lead..
Kids these days... (Skip to 4:00 to watch Marc hike it)
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2014 - 11:15am PT
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Jefe- i saw your post here and i think your subconscious is telling you to book some time off to come north next summer. I have not forgotten your offer.. I've been tying up loose ends and will be getting back to you soon.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2014 - 12:06pm PT
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Nice Tami! We should get you back on it! ;) i'll give you a boost! ;)
Thank you so much for the guide Glenn! I have been studying it since last night.
A Climber's Guide To Squamish by Glenn Woodsworth 1967
Interesting to note that only the first three pitches of Peasant's were done at this time, and it wasn't till 2001 when Kris Wild decided to give it a scrub that the upper pitches were added.
It also became popular despite Glenn's advice "The climb is bushy, and not recommended" lol!
Has anyone climbed Triptoe or Cataract Crags? Both sound like they might be worthy of a digging project.
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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Nov 21, 2014 - 12:21pm PT
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Anyone have any pics of a bushy exasperator?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Nov 21, 2014 - 01:29pm PT
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Hilarious that Glenn called the first 50' 5.5 HAHAAHHAH!!!!!!
Yeah, a bit under-graded. But the pull-ups on the veggies helped a lot!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 21, 2014 - 02:12pm PT
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Wow Tricouni, thanks for linking that guide. This is awesome!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2014 - 06:02pm PT
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Thanks for the info Anders! Those climbs are gems.
I was at the anchor for Witch Doctor's Apprentice the other day, and someone topped out on Penny Lane. "Hey dude, do you know where the anchor is?"
"Ya it's those cracks right there"
(Standing in front of the worlds best gear anchor) "where?"
"Right in front of you dude... Build a gear anchor..."
Lol!
Glenn you sandbagger you! ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2014 - 12:34am PT
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Nice to see you chime in Eric!
Cider crack is indeed a gem. Tami, you remember any details on that pitch yet?? ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2014 - 08:37am PT
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That was your lead i take it Tami??
She fell 30+m into the swamp and lived??? Lucky girl!!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 22, 2014 - 07:42pm PT
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Big Jim told me some chick had done a back drop into the slough from the top of Crescent Crack. IIRC she had screwed up setting her rap device. That would NOT have been fun.
You sure you're not thinking of ??? (can't remember her name. I think she was a dancer and maybe hanging with, or living with, KFR). She was helping teach a climbing class, the end of which was to do the rap down to Broadway from the top-out of Memorial Crack or Rock On.
She was showing the clients how to set an anchor. One way of which is to throw your rope around an immovable boulder. But when she leaned back it turned out that while the boulder was immovable, the rope wasn't. It rolled off the top of the boulder and she dropped the 30 or so meters into the scuz pond at the base of the rap. Landed flat on her back and suffered no permanent damage.
30 meters!
I think Angels flew out of her ass and lowered her gently into the swamp.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2014 - 09:17pm PT
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Tami- km has Peter listed first, so it's likely that he did. Just thought maybe your name = your lead...
Landed flat on her back and suffered no permanent damage.
I bet it still hurt like a biotch!!
she even shared the angels when the mood was right. She let me use one when she untied me at the top of the pillar one day!
Damn Bruce! Lol! Glad the angels saved you!! Care to expand on that tale??
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 23, 2014 - 08:02am PT
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Those yellow lycra tights...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2014 - 10:05am PT
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Wow Bruce! Thanks for that tale!! Did you know our nickname for Soloclimber is NFR? Lol
Leaning back for tension on top of the pillar and not finding it would creep me out too!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 23, 2014 - 12:32pm PT
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Just doing some work on my inner Ed Hartouni here to bring you this quick report:
This will be obsolete before I post it, but so far on this thread the following ppl have contributed xxx number of posts:
Big Mike - 1270
Jim B - 313
Tami- 583
Ghost- 386
Andy- 364
Anders- 355
Bruce K- 751
Chief- 101
Bmacd- 115
Hamish- 279
Tricouni- 184
Hamie- 213
Luke- 388
Brownie/browniephoto -111
Soloclimber- 108
Me- 605
This accounts for 6026 of the posts on this thread and almost 75% of the total content.
Am I missing any obvious posters with over 100 posts here??
Great stuff everyone :-)
Edit- Tami 584
second edit- HA forgot about Relic: 334
Third edit- oooops, Oplopanax 284 i am def no Ed Hartouni lol
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 23, 2014 - 07:02pm PT
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Statistically speaking, this page needs a climbing photo.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Nov 23, 2014 - 08:04pm PT
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Mike - Most FAs are written up alphabetically. Anders was quite precise with many of the FA's that PC & I did - when I had led something, Anders wrote it in as me having led it.
In the early Squamish guides, the FA names are generally listed in pseudo-random order: neither alphabetical or with the leader first. The order of the names isn't a good guide to who led what. I haven't checked the guides by Smaill and Anders.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 23, 2014 - 08:30pm PT
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He wasn't drunk that day, but the stats show that the odds that the results were the same had he been were actually quite high due to a cold temperature:hip flexibility issue and sloppy shoes.
The stats also show that if he had muira velcros or katana lace ups & hit a yoga class or pretended he did his odds of sending would have increased drastically.
Edit- new world order 2 I don't think that was the same day unless you are the girl who stopped & we were talking to that makes jewellery and sells at the market in town, which I don't think the stats really support :-)
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 24, 2014 - 10:31am PT
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how many more posts do I need to make to hit a hundred Ryan?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2014 - 12:30pm PT
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Hey Mike! Thanks for letting me climb thru at Burgers and Fries, last Saturday. That crag was something busy that day, eh?!
I'm pretty sure that was you? 6'5", wearing an upper body harness?
Ya man! It was Sunday though, we spent Saturday at Penny Lane. Why didn't you say hi?? Didn't wanna blow your cover eh? Lol
Always happy to let a soloist climb through, especially an efficient and expedient one such as yourself!
You tripped Ryan out with that pic of him and Tifo, but he still can't figure it out.. Lol
I'm pretty sure i'll remember your mug so next time i see you, beware! Lol
I won't out you.. Don't worry...
Ryan- Nice work. There are a few more significant contributors as well even if they don't meet your 100+ criteria. And i probably missed someone too so i'm sorry, don't get yer knickers in a knot.. Lol
Scrubber 87
Rolfr 47
Then he went to lean back and look at the tourists in the ( old ) parking lot and ........whoa ! Grabbed the anchors and pulled in and gave me that dodged-a-bullet look.
Whoa is right! I always try and have two points, but have been guilty of only having one in the past.
In the early Squamish guides, the FA names are generally listed in pseudo-random order: neither alphabetical or with the leader first. The order of the names isn't a good guide to who led what. I haven't checked the guides by Smaill and Anders.
Good to know. I know that some guides do list it that way and obviously made an assumption..
Isn't that the same pic posted a few pages back? Some 12b something.... The Technician?
I happened to be happening by that day (I think). The draws were up, and Big Mike was on tr cleaning it.
There were multiple sessions on it. But i've never been on it. Hanging beside it yes.
We need more data
Sometimes you get a little more data then you think....
The stats also show that if he had muira velcros or katana lace ups & hit a yoga class or pretended he did his odds of sending would have increased drastically.
Aka Brownie and RyanD sent that sh!t last thursday before the rain. I'll let you figure out which one is the yoga poser.. Lol
Dru- lol! Thanks for all your input here. I'll smack Ryan for ya. Lol ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2014 - 02:06pm PT
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Repost, cause I want to drop these bangers on a new page
Kieran Brownie on The Technician 12b
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2014 - 03:35pm PT
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It was a beautiful fall day. A bit crisp. The temps were perfect for sending and I was sans partner.
I called Brownie because I knew he was working on The Technician and took my gear just in case.
When i arrived Kieran was just about to jump on it, so I ran around and set up a rope.
Going for the crimp on The Technician 12b
Grant and Hannah tr'd it again while I chilled with Brownie.
I didn't bring my jugs, but i always have my grigri and a prussic, and Hannah decided to lead it, so I climbed my only "pitch" of the day..
Hannah starting out on The Technician 12b
Working the horizontal
Next, grab on to nothing...
Then paste your foot high and reach for the nickel edge.
The ol' match n' clip
I know, I know.. The magazine angle is verboten....
;)
Focused on the mono pocket
The mono pocket
Get there!
Push!
If you look closely at her left foot, you will notice her toe literally just blew.
Close! Nice try Hannah!!
Kieran had another go
But he was having a high gravity day and kept blowing off here:
He eventually sent the next week with cooler temps and no kodak pressure.
After we went bouldering and it was freezing in the forest! :)
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Nov 27, 2014 - 09:46pm PT
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Get back on the front page! Guess everyone in Squamish is hiding from the rain.
Whatever happened to that Kidcormier dude? I liked his TRs, not enough Squamish aid climbing pictures floating around lately, I need something to get the wall stoke going
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 28, 2014 - 10:50am PT
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Speaking of Squamish stoke, I was chatting with little Marc last nite and he mentioned that he and Tony McLane had done a new route on Dione, self-propelled from Squamish, back in July.
1) ride bikes to cable car
2) walk cables
3) hike to Lake Lovelywater
4) traverse Alpha and Serratus to hut
5) climb new 5.10X direct line left of the Serl/Foweraker and right of the big loose corner, named Mags 99 after the mexi joint of course
"Belays are solid" saith the kid, "but no gear at the cruxes"
6) descend off Dione and reverse 4 thru 1.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2014 - 05:40pm PT
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Whatever happened to that Kidcormier dude? I liked his TRs, not enough Squamish aid climbing pictures floating around lately, I need something to get the wall stoke going
He's been working tons. We did get out last week for a lap on Slot machine!
It was super fun. I had dinner after with him and Aislinn after, and it was lovely.
I mean, the entire thing is burly including that awful traverse of the river. Done that one too !!! I had a seal poke it's head out of the river and watch me.
Lol! Seal eh?
Marc and Brette are in the Tantalus again today apparently...
Stolen from Marc's facecrack.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2014 - 08:38pm PT
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We had a flash freeze today folks. Ice junkies take note! There will probably be a few flows out there tomorrow!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2014 - 08:55am PT
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Anyone ice climbing today??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2014 - 04:44pm PT
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It's damn cold up there... Hope it was a one day in and out mission!
Anyone get out today?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2014 - 08:15pm PT
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Lol!
I did no ice climbing today.. I stayed in my nice warm house and worked on pics.
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bm
Social climber
pluto
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Nov 30, 2014 - 01:16am PT
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but I bet the alpine must be good after that 150 mill hose down and flash freeze.
Bloody conga line up the Vulcan's Thumb today... I think 6 parties summited and I guess everyone's been waiting for this event (and significantly cheaper than the water bomber option frequently discussed).
I'll bet a hundred bucks the skiing sucks anyway ... can't remember the last time I saw the phrase, "... some extremely challenging conditions" in an avvy bulletin, but W-B's latest has it in there.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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I have never seen climbable & protectable water ice form in 48 hrs before, but it did this weekend. Wow.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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So cold outside yer nipples will freeze off and roll around inside yer jacket like lugnuts in a hubcap.
And then one of your crampons falls off.
Dang, that was funny. You cussed like I'd never heard you cuss before (which is saying something), and I thought it was a bit overboard for something as mundane as losing a crampon while soloing steep ice. But I didn't realize you'd also lost your nipples -- no wonder you were cussin'.
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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I have never seen climbable & protectable water ice form in 48 hrs before, but it did this weekend. Wow.
250mm or so in the last storm cycle here, then flash freeze to -8, some uncommon streaks did form up..
,,like this one
Went to look at it today with Matt M
The line is just next to a bolted route called The First Course (Kris Holm '98), but the bolts were just out of reach to the right of the ice.. so we conveniently scrambled up to the U Wall base and set up a TR on the bolted belay there
had a couple of 55m laps on our mini weeping wall.. it could've been sent if one had a handful of stubby screws and a couple of cams (that and some better attached ice..the middle 10m or so was a little hollow sounding)
The only downside to this endeavor was that I had to bail on my rock climbing date w Big Mike..Sorry again, Man!
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Nice one Saugy! Pretty good view up the U wall as well from that vantage point. Where did the smear touch down? Just lookers right of Seasoned in the Sun?
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Hey Grippa! Enjoyed meeting you at the City of Rocks gathering..
Yeah, it touched down a ways right of Seasoned.. It was formed up all the way..coulda went in two 60m pitches.
Who knows when there will be another chance at it? Another wet, warm system is coming our way
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Recently back from a month in East Africa with a bunch of younger folk, who made me laugh and drink way more than usual. Good times.
A bit late, but here we go..... BITGOD most of the routes were 4 or 5 pitches long, and we would alternate leads on the FA. Consequently the order of recording names was arbitrary and meaningless. When making the FA of one of today's mini sport climbs one of us will lead the pitch, lower off, pull the rope and then the other one will lead the climb. I always report my partner's name first, and my own last--as a courtesy to my partner[s]. New routes are usually joint and equal efforts. Some might say that they are always 'joint' efforts here in the Koots.
Does anyone really care if Tami or Peter was first to lead some pitch? or if it was Glenn or me? I hope not! It's only climbing. :) :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2014 - 11:23pm PT
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I have never seen climbable & protectable water ice form in 48 hrs before, but it did this weekend. Wow.
I figured with so much water then cold, something would happen.. nice fa the other day!
Bloody conga line up the Vulcan's Thumb today... I think 6 parties summited and I guess everyone's been waiting for this event (and significantly cheaper than the water bomber option frequently discussed).
Thanks for the Report BD!
The only downside to this endeavor was that I had to bail on my rock climbing date w Big Mike..Sorry again, Man!
Yes well, Ice isn't climbable very often.. there will be plenty of days, for winter cragging. thanks for the pics dude! gotta get me some gear...
Nice to see you here Greg!
Does anyone really care if Tami or Peter was first to lead some pitch? or if it was Glenn or me? I hope not! It's only climbing. :) :)
No, not really, but i always want to know more details about your ascents! Helps make the picture a little less blurry..
There wasn't a chain on the backside trail. We third-classed that in our ice gear. It couldn't have been *that bad* if I 3rd classed it ( tho' don't get Ghost going on my Yak Peak Crampon F*#kup again ) hahaha.
So you guys finished up uwall then??
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Anastasia
climber
Home
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Bump... Rising above the spammer.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2014 - 12:47am PT
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Ok ok. You meant the Flake Ledge trail. I got confused when you said backside...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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I thought it was called the flake escape ledge?
Edit- trail
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Man o man I miss squamish!
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The Call Of K2 Lou
Mountain climber
North Shore, BC
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Yes well, Ice isn't climbable very often... gotta get me some gear...
+1
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Yeah well I dunno if I believe u Tami, I got a feeling you've been yanking chains longer than BK has been pimping at least.
Edit- oops haha hope that didn't sound weird!:-)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Heh heh heh. Tami said "backside"
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2014 - 01:24pm PT
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Lol.. I get my names from the guidebooks....
I hear there is a heli rescue happening around the north walls?
Edit. On third peak apparently..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2014 - 03:30pm PT
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Now now boys.. Don't scare all the ladies off! ;)
I finally got out of the house....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2014 - 04:42pm PT
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Wtf? We have two heli's hovering over the chief now. One just looked like it landed on second and another is hovering over the buttress??
The one on second just peaced out and it looked as if the other one landed there after??
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Pretty cool how you can post a story here that invokes another tale from... 32 years back! :)
Glad you kept your red journal, Tami!
I know the mossy corner you're talking about.. I'd like to have had a closer look for that screw/piton!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2014 - 07:27pm PT
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Here we go... Speed flyer...
A 42-year-old man is lucky to escape injury after his attempt at “speed flying” off The Chief in Squamish resulted in being stranded on a ledge.
According to a witness, the speed flyer jumped off the third peak in The Chief park and did not make it around one of the corners and instead ended up 30 metres down from the peak, stranded on a ledge.
Squamish SAR were notified by RCMP just after 1 p.m. and 15 members headed to the scene to execute a rope rescue.
“We have four different teams up there and they’ll be putting anchors up in the surrounding trees and lowering one member of our team to access the subject, and then raising the subject up,” said Katie Chambers with Squamish SAR.
Due to darkness, using a helicopter to rescue the man was not an option and instead the SAR teams will have to hike down the backside of The Chief with the man.
Speed flying is an air sport that involves flying with a small, fast fabric wing, usually in close proximity to a steep slope and it combines elements of paragliding and parachuting.
Chambers said both base jumping and speed flying are increasing in popularity on The Chief over the last few years. But she cautions, they’re not activities for people who are inexperienced in flying.
“You need a lot of experience and training to fly,” she said.
http://globalnews.ca/news/1709532/speed-flyer-stranded-on-ledge-of-the-chief-in-squamish/
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Not us.. Too many colours, they're wearing.. Besides, we only climbed the upper slab.
It's all back to bare rock as of today :(
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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The best thread on ST has fallen to page 5. Unacceptable.
So, let's get it back where it belongs with a quiz. None of you are likely to know the climber, but you've all likely walked under the climb and wished you were man enough to get on it.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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I'm scared to even walk under that one
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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I don't see a climb.
IF there is a climb, do women never walk under it?
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Chief bump
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Ghost
Is that Slab Alley?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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IF there is a climb, do women never walk under it?
I'm sure they do, but even they are not man enough to get on it.
Is that Slab Alley?
Damn, I've finally come up with something that is actually tough to guess! (i.e. it's not Slab Alley)
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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new world order2 may have it
There may be a question about the name, but the big shadow lower left, the climber shadow, the little snag, and many people walking under it all fit with:
However, most times when I walk past it I don't even notice it.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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You guys must have all taken your slow pills or something.
Here's a blatant clue...
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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You have to admit your photo shows very little. Saugy got closest. Thanks for the clue.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Ok so we all know what it is but nobody wants to say right??
Somebody pooed their pants in there before, that's all I know.
That was tricky though, at first I thought exasperator lol.
Seems MH2 got stumped there a bit, I'm shocked!!
:-)
Here's one, a chance for redemption Andy.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Hey, that IS a climb.
Other than that, well, 'tis the season.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2014 - 10:07pm PT
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Ah ha! Boogie till you poop! I saw Jason at mag's a couple weeks ago...
Funny. I bet he likes being known as the chopper rather than the pooper.. Lol
So how many lucky snags has that been now?
Well, there was 2 in 2010, which caused mayor Greg to call for a ban on basejumping on the Chief. Then one in 2012, and the accident last year was a double wall strike that the gentleman managed to recover from. So this latest incident makes for four hangers, one tumbler and five very lucky flying enthusiasts...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 10, 2014 - 12:08am PT
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Nothin' eh?
Here's a shot of the first pitch.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Dec 10, 2014 - 07:46am PT
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Where the climber is in Ryan's pic #2 looks a lot like a passage on p1 of Never Were Warriors. There should be a big cedar above and left, though, which isn't there.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 10, 2014 - 08:27am PT
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that polish looks like the malemute.
survival enhancement maybe?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Dec 10, 2014 - 10:07am PT
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The spidery cracks in the first shot and the rock in general does have Papoose vibe but I can't see much I recognize.
edit: and I did p1 of Survival Enhancement, formerly Duet for Two Hands, as recently as this year
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 10, 2014 - 10:41am PT
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Slab Alley?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Dec 10, 2014 - 10:54am PT
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found it but what is it?
edit:
It's Pamplemousse. No wonder I didn't recognize it. Good going!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 10, 2014 - 11:09am PT
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Haha nice one Andy I knew u had it in u.
Who else has got one?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 10, 2014 - 11:55am PT
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Where's the climber?!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 10, 2014 - 01:05pm PT
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It's the purple route at the gym. And I wouldn't want to walk under that one either -- people lob off it all the time.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 10, 2014 - 03:00pm PT
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Hey I took that pic! I think I know what it's of.
There is that line in the middle of the face. Weasels out right. Probably would have been done in the 30s if it was in Europe.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 10, 2014 - 03:04pm PT
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Doesnt Pamplemousse go through the roof? I don't see a roof in that shot.
Here's Bruce's from a more different angle. If you want to plan your NE cOuloir snowboard descent in a little bit better style. Bring something to get you over the ice step at the bottom
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Dec 10, 2014 - 03:21pm PT
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does squamish climbing include climbing skin tracks?
20 points for naming the bridge and location. I'll give you a hint, you start at a graveyard.
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Dec 10, 2014 - 03:57pm PT
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Bingo Tami.
You're all far too well travelled.. I need to try harder!
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Dec 10, 2014 - 04:39pm PT
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Yeah they take it down each winter to discourage travel in that direction I believe. We were actually headed up to Sproatt, when there was still snow below 2000m!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 12, 2014 - 09:04am PT
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tami you can see one of the border peaks - in the background
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 12, 2014 - 05:07pm PT
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I went to that spiral once with my brother after a Red Rocks road trip.
It had been a wet spring. The spiral jetty was underwater.
He walked out on it anyways.
His shoes got brine shrimp eggs in them. Which later hatched.
You do not want to know what dead brine shrimp in your shoes smells like.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Dec 12, 2014 - 05:51pm PT
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Here's some images of chilly weather climbing from a few weeks ago to keep us from drowning in the flood. This is the FFA of an old aid route on the Shannon Falls Wall
Jump to Lightspeed
5.10+ 45m
FA Eric Lance, Dick Culbert, Einar Hansen 1967 (Weeping Wall)
FFA Kris Wild, Jen Reilly Nov 15, 2014
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2014 - 06:02pm PT
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Bruce- Glad you guys didn't hit the tipping point! Some storm that one was.
Nice pics Kris, and thanks for all the hard work!! Can't wait to climb it!!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 12, 2014 - 06:40pm PT
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Wow! What a fine line Kris. Where is it (in relation to other climbs on the crag)?
I always loved Shannon Falls Wall. Wonderful place and great and varied climbing. Does anyone climb Poultry in Motion and Man of Leisure these days?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 12, 2014 - 06:43pm PT
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For that person who deserves the best...... JPBooks has a copy of Anders' guide, as new $40- US. It's listed in JPCatalog #53, item #365. While $40- is a reasonable price, it becomes less so when you add the exchange and postage.
Unabashed commercial message.
Santa's little helpers tell me that the 3rd edition of Glenn/Tricouni's outstanding book "Hot Springs of Western Canada" has been available at reputable booksellers everywhere for the last few months. Glenn's son David is listed as co-author. A great gift for someone near and dear!!!!!! Autographed copies likely available direct from Glenn [???]. What are you waiting for? Sorry, not sure of the price. Photo later.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 12, 2014 - 06:45pm PT
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Dec 12, 2014 - 06:47pm PT
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Nice going, Scrubber. The line goes up toward where the traverse on Skywalker finishes, I think. There were/are a couple old bolts below the Skywalker belay and a crack below them.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Dec 12, 2014 - 08:50pm PT
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Great thread! how did I miss all 8000+ posts?!?! ;-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2014 - 09:23pm PT
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Great thread! how did I miss all 8000+ posts?!?! ;-)
I dunno? ;)
Those rooster heads were quite perplexing at first... Lol
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 13, 2014 - 07:47am PT
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Those rooster heads were quite perplexing at first... Lol
Where do think aid climbers get all that weird gear they're always yammering about? You thought "beaks" and "heads" grew on some magical tree?
On another subject, big thanks to Hamie, who just solved my Christmas gifting problems...
Santa's little helpers tell me that the 3rd edition of Glenn/Tricouni's outstanding book "Hot Springs of Western Canada" has been available at reputable booksellers everywhere for the last few months
Now, if only there was a reputable bookseller in the lawless and semi-literate land I moved to.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Dec 13, 2014 - 08:29am PT
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A couple more good ones I missed:
You're right Andy. There were two old aid bolts below the belay at the end of the Skywalker traverse. I left one as a tip-o-the-hat to those who have gone before. Just to keep you honest though, you can look, but you can't clip. ;)
Full splitter glory! There aren't many like this in Squamish. There's about 20m of crack in this photo.
K
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2014 - 08:48am PT
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Now i understand the double placement... Climbing today Kris?
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Dec 13, 2014 - 08:51am PT
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It is a 1/4 incher, but classic, corroded, beer-can pull-tab style aluminum hanger. What company made or supplied those things? Were they actually intended for climbing, or were they repurposed industrial fastener hardware like much of the other fixed pro of the day?
Of the non-homemade hangers of the day, these seem to be the most common.
K
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Dec 13, 2014 - 08:54am PT
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I would love to Mike, but I think I have been given Christmas baking duties. If you're going to be out, let me know where and I'll try to come by.
The double placement isn't entirely necessary, but I can be a bit of a chicken after not being on the rock for a month. Most of the crack is paralell sided and isn't flaring at all.
From that point you've got to put the pedal down and go for it to the belay ledge. It's only about 3m of climbing, but after leaving the security of the crack, it feels longer. The moves are much like the thin face sections of Cruel Shoes. Good pro, but climbing that'll keep you honest above, and clean fall potential.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2014 - 09:04am PT
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Heather and I are gonna hit the bluffs. I'll text you when I get down there.
Sounds super fun. Quick drying? (I'm geussing the name "Weeping Wall" might be a clue..)
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Dec 13, 2014 - 09:12am PT
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Way drier than you would think. 90% of it dries in one day of sunny weather, the last 15 feet take another day. I've seen it completely dry while Skywalker has been literally running with water.
K
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2014 - 03:25pm PT
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It's gorgeous today.
Tr'ing Sunny Days in December
We're at burgers now!
Edit
Thanks Kris.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2014 - 06:29pm PT
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Over Fourty is still eluding me, but i got closer.
Sunset was vivid this evening.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Dec 13, 2014 - 06:45pm PT
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That's the place, that's the spirit. I always thought Sunny Days (in December) was called that for a day like you had.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Dec 13, 2014 - 08:20pm PT
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nothing like tied off rooster heads above a slab.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2014 - 12:17am PT
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I'm sure it is Andy.. I'm sure it is. Care to join us tomorrow? Was warm today, looks even more so for tomorrow.
Yeah Doug they're BOMBER! ;)
I took a couple pics with my s110 today too. Here's Kieran on his onsight of Grumpy Old Men 11c
Contemplating the clip
Pulling the first bulge
Chalk up in the scoop
Ryand and Electra showed up for a visit.
Technical climbing!
Nice work Kieran!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Dec 14, 2014 - 08:30am PT
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Good tick, Kieran. P2 has a few metres near the top that are a bit freaky.
Thanks for the idea Mike. All my psychic and physical energy are focused on a gym project. If that goes for me then I can exit the zone of purity and calm and go back to being a grumpy old man and a real climber, again.
For now, the Squamish photos and stories are a big help. May they continue.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 14, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
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I thought Grumpy Old Men was a bit soft for 11c, cause it was the only "11c" I've ever successfully led. Felt more like 11a on the day. Possibly temperature-dependent though.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 14, 2014 - 09:09pm PT
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AerialElf
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Dec 14, 2014 - 11:59pm PT
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Where is the lovely splitter crack that you posted, Scrubber?
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Dec 15, 2014 - 07:02am PT
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30m right of the start to Skywalker. Just before the base of the Gobsmacking wall. (Shannon falls)
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AerialElf
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Dec 16, 2014 - 03:09pm PT
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Thanks, what is the route called? So it's before you get to the wall where Chewbacca is or is it on that same wall? What is the rating? Or rather the general size of the crack? ;) I love splitter cracks. Yum.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Dec 16, 2014 - 08:42pm PT
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Thanks, what is the route called? So it's before you get to the wall where Chewbacca is or is it on that same wall? What is the rating? Or rather the general size of the crack? ;)
Go back two pages to my original post and photos. All of the particulars are there. It is about half way between the bases of Skywalker and Chewbacca's
K
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AerialElf
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Dec 20, 2014 - 10:47am PT
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Thanks! I see it now. Sorry, I hadn't known you posted earlier about it. Only saw the last set of pics you posted.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2014 - 11:19am PT
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Merry Christmas Everyone!!
I've been so busy this year. I've got lots of ammo for the dull days of winter ahead though!
Hope everyone is well.
Mike Cowper
Kieran Brownie on Power Windows
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Dec 25, 2014 - 01:44pm PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2014 - 03:25pm PT
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Getting some Canadian whiskey in ya buds??
Kyle on ???
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Dec 25, 2014 - 07:00pm PT
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Great shots, Mike. Power Windows looks different from there but you captured the way that step away from the crack feels, and we get to see all of the crack, too.
Also very good of Kyle on YG.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 25, 2014 - 09:05pm PT
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Kyle on Slab Alley?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 25, 2014 - 09:12pm PT
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Also very good of Kyle on YG.
Not YG. Looks like Clandestine Affair.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2014 - 09:19pm PT
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Actually Andy was right Dave! Clandestine can be seen just to the left of Yorkshire Gripper. Nice to hear from all you gentlemen though!
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Rolfr
Sport climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Dec 26, 2014 - 08:42am PT
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Big Mike, Grumpy old Men first pitch is only 11A, it gets the 11C rating for the second pitch. Try linking up GOM after the crux of pitch one to the crack of Ugly American for "The Grumpy American." just a wee bit runout.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Dec 26, 2014 - 11:07am PT
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where did the first pitch end BITD rolf?
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Dec 26, 2014 - 11:48am PT
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I received a Squish t-shirt from Tami. Does that count?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2014 - 12:40pm PT
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Rolf- i was wrong about a grade??.. Shocking!! ;) lol
Ya John! Now all you need to do is come on up here next summer and i'll take you up Diedre and some other fun moderates!
I had to bring conehead here to the vet today. No one in Whistler wanted to work today so i ended up bringing him down to Squamish.
We took him to Nexen beach after the vet.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Dec 26, 2014 - 01:01pm PT
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Poor doggie nose.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Dec 26, 2014 - 02:01pm PT
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Actually I'm wearing my very skookum fred t-shirt at work today. I've heard the security people are on their way.
People are looking at me. Tami did this to me. Stupid bright yellow t-shirts aren't allowed here.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2014 - 02:06pm PT
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Yup.. He hates this cone.. Lol.. Shouldn't have scratched all the fur off your nose dummy! Lol
Run John, Run!
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Rolfr
Sport climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Dec 26, 2014 - 06:13pm PT
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No criticism meant Mike. Based on the grades down here in JT, I should have graded GOM 5.10B and removed half the bolts.
A great community down here, that has accepted this displaced Canuck into their group of locals. A lot of us geezers down here, I may come back to the Great White North with long hair, and a pony tail! OMG . I've already bought the Prius!
All kidding aside, if you come down, old school grades that teach you humility and respect for some of the pioneers of climbing.
Brownie, the top of GOM pitch one,ended on a grassy ledge, then you traversed right on an exposed section to the base of the business. P2 Tenuous steep slab ends with a dyno to a good hold. If that pitch was easier to approach, it would see non stop traffic.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2014 - 07:35pm PT
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No criticism meant Mike.
:) None taken Rolf. I was poking fun at what seems to be a common theme around here. Me being wrong about the grade. J- Tree eh? It's on the list! Maybe soon? I'll let you know.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Dec 26, 2014 - 08:21pm PT
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Thanks Rolph, it seems that it is common practice these days to climb both pitches in one. That lunge to the right has to be one of the most fun moves the smoke bluffs has ever challenged me with..
Whata vision!!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Dec 28, 2014 - 11:31pm PT
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I Could have put this on Big Mike's Silhouette thread, but I really love the Squamish thread and it's time for a bump. So here it is. Sorry about the crap on the photo: that's how it is.
Squamish, obviously, but can anyone identify the pitch?Hint: it's a 1961 photo and there weren't that many routes then. But which pitch? And, yes, it is a run out as it seems.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 29, 2014 - 12:34am PT
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Looks a lot like Tony on the ------ pitch of ---------. Definitely not Slab Alley this time.
I think that I was belaying him?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 29, 2014 - 12:53am PT
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Although this looks a lot like Slab Alley, it is actually the 2nd asc of Big Daddy.
Hanging from a tipped-in tied-off knifeblade.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2014 - 10:33am PT
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I'm coming up blank on this one.. It looks like something in one of the gullies.. Is it flipped possibly?
Always nice to see you gentlemen post here. Thanks for everything you've contributed.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Dec 29, 2014 - 10:35am PT
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No not flipped, and definitely not Slab Alley....
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 29, 2014 - 10:39am PT
|
I think it's one of the gullies too. Maybe the FA of South South?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 29, 2014 - 10:43am PT
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Maybe NN arête or wrist twister? The cloudy background makes it that much more cryptic.
Great shots gents.
Edit- not NN arête, Oplopanax may be on to something
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Dec 29, 2014 - 10:44am PT
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It's the South Gully, on left wall (climber's left), where you can avoid the 2nd and gigantic chockstone by going onto the left wall. (On the right wall are bush ledges that lead onto the Squam Buttress.) I don't think anyone does this variant these days.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2014 - 10:49am PT
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That makes sense. I was trying to think of a climb that would be on that left wall. I've never actually climbed the south gully, just all around it..
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Dec 29, 2014 - 11:40am PT
|
I've never actually climbed the south gully, just all around it..
Smart move...
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Dec 29, 2014 - 04:11pm PT
|
And didn't Furry Creek used to be Fury Creek?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2014 - 04:17pm PT
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Fury creek? It is now! ;)
I would like to do the south gully, if only to look up at the prow from below..
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Dec 29, 2014 - 05:03pm PT
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And didn't Furry Creek used to be Fury Creek? From a short article I wrote a few years ago:
Trappers and prospectors explored the area before 1900. In 1898, Oliver Furry (~1855-1905), an illiterate trapper, staked the first claims to what would eventually become the Britannia Mine. Soon the area from the Stawamus and Indian Rivers south to the headwaters of the Capilano and Seymour Rivers was crawling with prospectors. Furry’s name was given a few years later to Furry Creek, and many lakes and creeks in the region were named for the some of the resulting mineral claims.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2014 - 12:01am PT
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It was gorgeous today. I managed to get down to the bluffs to hang with the boys.
Connor, Kieran and Kyle enjoying some rays.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Dec 31, 2014 - 09:12am PT
|
Thanks Tricouni. I value this thread even when it reins in rather than feeds the imagination.
In A River Runs Through It Norman Maclean gives an example or two of colourful place names being prettified well before real estate developers standardized the practice.
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Dec 31, 2014 - 10:16am PT
|
Thank good some places still appreciate politically incorrect humour, Todd Gordon just named his last two routes "Spooky Boobs" and " Metallic Foreskin", thank you, I take credit for the last route name suggestion, based off the colour of a friends car.
Happy New year to everyone, have a great evening.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2014 - 10:22am PT
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No ice yet Tami! Need some snow on the cliffs for that to happen!
Kieran was working on Sunny Days in December.
He really wants to climb it in December.
Splitter weather yesterday.
I was having fun with the moon..
Balaclava Brownie
Kyle
Khyber got to hang too!
I think i slightly dislocated my pinkie on the opening move of crime...
It still hurts today. Gonna rest it this time.. Might try a slab route today tho..
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Dec 31, 2014 - 10:32am PT
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Thanks Tricouni. I value this thread even when it reins in rather than feeds the imagination.
I always value this thread! But I don't think knowing about the origin of place names reins in the imagination. Instead, it opens vistas. For instance, with Furry Creek we know this name goes back to 1901. From the BCGNS site we find:
"... Oliver Furry, illiterate trapper....had a cabin on McNab Creek. In 1898 he went into association with W.A. Clark to stake the first 5 claims of Britannia, thence into partnership with Leo Boscowitz, from which partnership documents indicate Furry was to receive a non-assessable 50% interest in the claims. The document was signed with a rubber stamp "Boscowitz and Sons". The Boscowitz family subsequently attempted to limit Furry's interest, producing an unsigned document that reduced Furry's interest from 50% to 20%. A lawsuit developed and it became clear that Oliver Furry had a limited understanding of these financial arrangements, and was easily confused. In 1905 Furry was committed to the Essondale Home for the Insane, and died there later that year. Ira Furry, representing his deceased brother, with Joseph Martin KC as legal council, appealed the decision of a lower court to the Supreme Court of Canada: the rubber stamp was legal, but the unsigned document was not, hence Furry retained a 50% interest in the Britannia Copper Syndicate. (additional information in The Coast News 20 January 1955, "Furry Creek Has its Past"; and in "Britannia: The Story of a Mine" by Bruce Ramsey, Agency Press, Vancouver 1967)."
Isn't this name, in a way, reflective of the behavior of the extractive industries in BC over the last 100 years? Did Furry get screwed? And what about the First Nations people, who don't enter into this variant of the story?
At the head of Furry Creek we have Phyllis and Marion Lakes. Who were they? Wives? daughters? girlfriends? hookers? prospectors? We don't know: the women so often get mentioned by their first names only, and that's the story of another chapter in the history of the last century, and more.
Happy New Year to all those on this thread!
Glenn
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2014 - 10:46am PT
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Okay so carry on. Great pix Mike. I don't think you need snow for ice to form in the Bluffs tho'. Plenty of weepage but, yes, snow makes for quite a bit more ice.
True, true. I haven't seen much but i didn't go anywhere other than penny yesterday too...
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Dec 31, 2014 - 10:49am PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2014 - 10:56am PT
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Cool pic Rolf!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Dec 31, 2014 - 11:17am PT
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Losing Fury Creek is more than made up for the Home for the Insane.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Dec 31, 2014 - 11:18am PT
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I heard The Lions were going to be called Sheba's Breasts.
Yup. Sheba's Paps was how it was originally used. Also Queen Sheba's Breasts, probably a reference to H. Rider Haggard's Ing Solomon's Mines, published in 1885 and popular ever since.
Even earlier was The Sisters, a name that was in use, occasionally, into the early 1900s. The name survives today in Sisters Creek, which drains from the Lions into Capilano River.
The term Lions was introduced about 1890 by a Judge Gray, who obviously thought breasts were too spicy for his taste. He noticed the
resemblance, rather striking, actually, to the Lions at the base of Nelson’s column in Trafalgar Square.
He suggested the entrance to Vancouver harbour be called “The Lions’ Gate”
(an allusion to San Francisco’s Golden Gate?), and clearly the origin of the name for the Lions Gate Bridge.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 31, 2014 - 11:27am PT
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Another year done, another coming up. Time to look ahead, and a time to reflect on the past. Looking ahead, here is my New Year resolution, one which I have had for a long time, and is likely shared by others on the Taco. "Must climb more, must climb more, must....."
Looking back, I am reminded that 50 years ago I spent the month of December, 1964 in Yosemite [and several months in 1965 as well]. Most climbs went well, but not all of them. One less than spectacular success was an attempted winter ascent of the north face of the Rostrum, with Bridwell. Since our approach shoes were the same as our rock shoes, we took them off to cross the Merced. By the time we reached the other side our ankles were creaking audibly from the cold [yes, true!].
Here's to good times, past and future.
Yes, it was cold....
Sledding in Camp 4.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Dec 31, 2014 - 11:28am PT
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I believe Bruce Ramsay was a newspaper reporter. He wrote several books on BC history. I think he had a sense of whimsy and humour. I'll post something on Judge Howay and Robie Reid later, probably. But now it's time to get out of the house and go for a good long walk. It's gorgeous outside.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Dec 31, 2014 - 11:30am PT
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Hi Hamie,
Sounds like quite a New Year in Yosemite 50 years ago. And now, today, guys are freeing the Dawn Wall, would you believe. Times change.
Climb more next year: good advice for all. Happy New Year!
Glenn
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 31, 2014 - 02:27pm PT
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Also Queen Sheba's Breasts, probably a reference to H. Rider Haggard's Ing Solomon's Mines, published in 1885 and popular ever since.
Sheba's boobs were referenced in the Bible, actually.
It's a two-parter. Solomon is visited by the Queen of Sheba, and he gives her "all that she desires".
Then you have the Song of Songs, aka the Song of Solomon, wherein we find the line (variously translated)
"Thy two breasts are like two fawns that are twins of a gazelle, which feed among the lilies."
The inference is that this woman whose breasts are celebrated is the Queen of Sheba. Hence the rider Haggard mountains The Breasts of Sheba are named after this passage.
So while the Lions reference might be to King Solomon's Mines, it might well be directly to the Bible, too, since that's what the name in KSM refers to.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Dec 31, 2014 - 02:44pm PT
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Yes indeed, Dru, but my reading says that the name was prompted by the Rider Haggard novel. He was probably more widely read at the time than the Bible. Using popular literature as a source of inspiration for peak names isn't a new phenomenon.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 09:39am PT
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Happy New Year Jim!!
Sandra and I went to the city yesterday to see my buddy Brandon who's in vgh. He had a similar injury to me and is currently facing the long road to recovery.
We stopped at timmie's on the way and the Grand Wall was shining.
Hope everyone had a great New Year!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Hey Glenn
Yes, times change:
NIAD
Nose freed.
Nose in 2:20 and change.
U Wall free-solo.
290 pitches IAD.
And all those enchainments......
It also seems as if the weather has changed a lot as well. No surprise there! It's now early Jan, and the climbers on Free Dawn appear to be wearing t-shirts. In 1964 we were wearing sweaters by the end of Nov, and were leading in down jackets by mid Dec. By the end of Dec-early Jan it was all over. More than a foot of snow on the ground, verglas on the rocks and cold, cold, cold. I hung on for another week or so, waiting for Gordie to show up. Then it was off to the Pinnacles for a few days with Bridwell hosting us [nice and warm there], and then on south to the volcanoes in Mexico, and the Cordillera Blanca in Peru.
El Cap Tom has pointed out some similarities between the Free Dawn and Harding's FA of the Nose. I wonder if there really is such a big difference between the old "seige" tactics of returning to the ground between attempts, and today's "single push" tactics where you return to a well stocked portable ledge every night. This thread has been dragging its a##. That might get some reaction!
"Must climb more". Is that a mantra or a resolution? Or both? Anders would know.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Hi Hamish,
Happy New Year to you! I'm not much on mantras, so I guess I mean "must climb more" as a resolution, or exhortation to myself. I can drag myself up things; it's the getting down that kills my knees.
I hope 2015 is a good year for all. The last half of 2014 was pretty crappy for me, but there were some very bright spots, too.
Best wishes, and keep on climbing,
Glenn
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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As long as there are bright spots, or the possibility of bright spots, or delusions of bright spots, life can be called worth living, with whatever degree of temerity you deem inoffensive to whatever gods may be. And maybe they will put a gondola on the Chief? For the knees!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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And maybe they will put a gondola on the Chief? A gondola? Over my dead knees! Yes, life is worth living!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Lembert Dome?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Does look like Slab Alley.
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Frankie's Tradster?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Finally! Slab Alley.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Finally! Slab Alley.
Slab Alley was my first climb. Tied straight into the rope (three wraps and a bowline), and some kind of work boots on my feet. I even led the last couple of pitches.
Best wishes to all for 2015.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jim Brennan was awfully quick with the answer and I had to use a clever ruse to throw people off the scent to see if hamie would take a stab at it.
We will all of us be right, eventually.
For example:
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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I recently found out that my ...device lets me download old books for nothing, so I recently found the journals of old Capt Vancouver from bitd (1792?).
While on the topic of place names and such, thought I'd share a few passages from this journal
Quitting point Atkinson, and proceeding up the sound, we passed on the western shore some detached rocks, with some sunken ones amongst them, that extend about two miles, but are not so far from the shore as to impede the navigation of the sound ; up which we made a rapid progress, by the assistance of a fresh southerly gale, attended with dark gloomy weather, that greatly added to the dreary prospect of the surrounding country. The low fertile shores we had been accustomed to see, though lately with some interruption, here no longer existed; their place was now occupied by the base of the stupendous snowy barrier, thinly wooded, and rising from the sea abruptly to the clouds ; from whose frigid summit, the dissolving snow in foaming torrents rustled down the sides and chasms of its rugged surface, exhibiting altogether a sublime, though gloomy spectacle, which animated nature seemed to have deserted. Not a bird, nor living creature was to be seen, and the roaring of the falling cataracts in every direction precluded their being heard, had any been in our neighbourhood. Towards noon I considered that we had advanced some miles within the western boundary of the snowy barrier, as some of its rugged lofty mountains were now behind, and to the southward of us. This filled my mind with the pleasing hopes of finding our way to its eastern side. The sun shining at this time for a few minutes afforded an opportunity of ascertaining the latitude of the east point of an island which, from the shape of the mountain that composes it, obtained the name of Anvil Island, to be 49'30, its longitude 237’3,......
...it soon narrows to half that breadth, taking a direction to the NNE as far as latitude 49° 39', longitude 237° 9', where all our expectations vanished, in finding it to terminate in a round basin, encompassed on every side by the dreary country already described. At its head, and on the upper part of the eastern shore, a narrow margin of lowland runs from the foot of the barrier mountains to the Water-side, which produced a few dwarf pine trees, with some little variety of underwood. The water of the sound was here nearly fresh, and in color a few shades darker than milk ; this I attributed to the melting of the snow, and its water passing rapidly over a chalky surface, which appeared probable by the white aspect of some of the chasms that seemed formerly to have been the course of water-falls, but were now become dry. The gap we had entered in the snowy barrier seemed of little importance, as through the valleys, caused by the irregularity of the mountaintops, other mountains more distant, and apparently more elevated, were seen rearing their lofty heads in various directions. In this dreary and comfortless region, it was no inconsiderable piece of good fortune to find a little cove in which we could take shelter, and a small spot of level land on which we could erect our tent ; we had scarcely finished our examination when the wind became excessively boisterous from the southward, attended with heavy squalls and torrents of rain, which continuing until noon the following day, Friday the 15th, occasioned a very unpleasant detention. But for this circumstance We might too hastily have concluded that this part of the gulf was uninhabited. In the morning we were visited by near forty of the natives, on whose approach, from the very material alteration that had now taken place in the face of the country, we expected to find some difference in their general character. This conjecture was however premature, as they varied in no respect whatever, but in possessing a more ardent desire for commercial transactions ; into the spirit of which they entered with infinitely more avidity than any of our former acquaintances, not only in bartering amongst themselves the different valuables they had obtained from us, but when that trade became slack, in exchanging those articles again with our people ; in which traffic they always took care to gain some advantage, and would frequently exult on the occasion. Some fish, their garments, spears, bows and arrows, to which these people wisely added , their copper ornaments, comprized their general stock in trade. Iron, in all its forms, they judiciously preferred to any other article we had to offer....
...about nine o'clock landed for the night, near the west point of entrance into the sound, which I distinguislied by the, name of Howe's Sound, in honor of AdmiraL Earl Howe...
..I like his description of the dreariness of the area, how he guesses why the water got its colour, the poor weather they experienced (some things don't change), and the commercial resourcefulness of the local natives is interesting ..
Happy 2015!
Don
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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My first climb was Banana peel and an aid ascent up 1st pitch of Exasperator. I took a rock climbing course with Cam Cairns in 1982.Bruce, if I had Josh's sausage fingers I'd save anything small for later also.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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MH2 is that last thing you posted The Groove into Frankenstein Tradster or something like that? Very far right of Apron.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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BK, I've been saving the Grand that way. For the onsight, I believe. Saving it for 24 years and change.
Sadly, it'll be a flash at best, now.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Yes. Dreary and comfortless. But sublime. And gloomy.
is that last thing you posted The Groove into Frankenstein Tradster
Dunno about The Groove, but we were trying to follow directions for Frankenstein Tradster as found on Quickdraw publications free downloads.
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Slab Alley, my first 5.10 on the upper variation, first year of climbing. I switched to an el cheapo pair of Zeller's runners with yellow sticky soles, for that bit. I swear that they may have been made with the first ever sticky rubber formula before Fires!
That year, or maybe the next, Bill McNeil convinced me to lead some run out 10b slab horror at the top of the Apron, which left all my knuckles and extremities bloodied and raw after multiple falls, with him shouting encouragement, "you got it mate". I think he was just happy to find a new gullible fool.
Does any one know the history of Bill, at one point I thought he was Randy's uncle? He gave me the most valuable piece of advise as a beginner that I still use today. " Climb in the TV screen" keep your focus to the area around you, the size of a TV screen, don't worry about what is outside that, focus on the immediate moves.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2015 - 11:07pm PT
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Andy- Looks like you found FT. It's very similar to the topo anyways. The groove looks interesting.. I'll have to check out both this summer.
Rolf- Was the "10b" Bran Flakes perhaps?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2015 - 09:19am PT
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I got down to squish briefly yesterday..
There was just enough light to catch this sunset.
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Mike, I dont think so, that was a Croft route further to the climbers right, I don't have a copy of the guidbook with me so I may be wrong. All I recall is EB's, lack of bolts and blood.
Even Anders route, Question of Balance, also locally know as "The bird walk" was a serious undertaking in EB's.
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Hardly Visible
Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
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Tami,
If my memory still works I believe the cove Vancouver and his boys dropped anchor in is porteau cove.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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If my memory still works I believe the cove Vancouver and his boys dropped anchor in is porteau cove.
I think they did a couple of routes on the slabs there. I recall going up on something at Porteau a long time ago and looking at the (very sparsely placed) bolts and thinking "These things look like relics from the 18th Century!"
Does anybody know anything about the climbs there? Glenn? Hamish?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2015 - 07:12pm PT
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Tami-Glad you enjoyed it!
Rolf- It must have been Eric's route then unless it started left of granville street?
I've often wondered about those slabs.. the low angle ones before the corner right?
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bm
Social climber
pluto
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Well I was digging thru the basement and found a couple of old issues of COAST magazine (remember that rag?... its only redeeming feature was Tami's 'toon)...
... and so there was always one issue (Jul/Aug 1995) that bugged me b/c I couldn't place the location of the cover photo, and after all these years, I still can't get it. Can anyone please put me out of my misery?
As you'll see from the second photo, it's Helen Habgood "in a far-away place", photo credit to Jim Sibley.
And for a spin down memory lane, here's Tami's 'toon from that issue, 19.5 years later, and reprinted without permission :)
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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My boss makes a cameo in that!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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I'm going to go out on a limb and say south east ridge of Robbie Reid in that pic. Tami, what are you doing up so late? You have obligations tomorrow!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 10, 2015 - 08:25am PT
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As you'll see from the second photo, it's Helen Habgood "in a far-away place", photo credit to Jim Sibley.
I don't recognize that peak, and I don't remember Helen ever climbing Robie Reid (although it's possible). I think she won't be back from India for another few weeks, but I'll see if she replies to an email.
And I'd still like to hear some history of the climbing on the slabs at Porteau Cove.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jan 10, 2015 - 11:04am PT
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Bill McNeill was a nice guy with great energy and famous for taking HUGE WHIPPERS on the Apron.
Porteau Slabs?
A couple obvious steep corners on the right side.
Gymnastic Sisters by Dean and bmac?
"Short but good looking".
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 10, 2015 - 11:15am PT
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If you mean the slabs on the east side of the road, some of us fooled around there in the early 1960s. Once, AS and I were doing something when the police showed up (just passing through, not looking for us). They were not amused to see us climbing there and kicked us off.
Other than that, I know nothing about the history of the routes there. Hamish?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2015 - 11:19am PT
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You Hooligan Glenn! Climbing on the side of the road.. What got into you?? ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2015 - 12:06pm PT
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While we wait for an answer to the Porteau slabs query, I have a couple recent photos.. I've been resting my pinkie, so no climbing for me this week, but i got out to hang out with the gang one day at Fern Gully last week.
Luke starting up Rampage 5.9
Ais warming up in the sun on top of Fern Gully.
Luke coiling the rope in the sunset.
Always nice to see Luke and Ais at the crag. Both have had health issues lately which has limited their climbing time.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 11, 2015 - 12:08pm PT
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Nice shots Mike!
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jan 11, 2015 - 03:06pm PT
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Just for fun, and something to do on a dreary day, I was reading old Hamish F stories on Genius Loci and soloing. Made me rethink back on my adventures this past season, and figure I might as well share them. Who knows, might make for a good, if lengthy read.
A bit of a prologue: Summer of 2013, I wasn't as stoked on climbing as I had been before. I mean, I was, but not enough to really put in full effort. The one day, it was the soon to be Mrs Cormier's birthday, so I was visiting them with some other folks. Luke had to work early the next day, so was planning on calling it an early night, but there was an Event going on at the Ruddy Duck, which I accompanied Aislinn and some of her friends to.
Long story short, we both had a fair bit to drink, and went back to the Cormier residence. In the morning, Ais was hurting pretty bad, where I was feeling pretty okay, and wanted to climb something.
I opted for Calculus crack to Butt Face, thought it would be a reasonable outing. It was pretty humid out, and I was sweating a fair bit by the time I got to the base. Starting up, I felt okay, but as I gained ground, I started to feel worse and worse. By the time I got to the base of the money pitch, the hangover had hit me full on and I just wanted off. Getting to the top seemed a quicker option than downclimbing, so up I went.
I got to Memorial Ledge and was torn between not wanting to climb anymore, but staying true to the goal I had made on the ground of summiting. I reluctantly started up Memorial Crack, and was just entering the crux section when a couple raindrops hit. That seemed like a legit reason to bail, so I downclimbed, and made a hasty retreat via the descent slabs.
I don't think I soloed anything else that year. Turned me right off.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jan 11, 2015 - 03:51pm PT
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Now for this year.
I broke my hand at the end of May, after getting back from working with Brownie in Kelowna. I was choked, cause all we had really talked about was getting back to Squamish and climbing. I was in a splint for three weeks, and was supposed to give it another three weeks to heal completely. I spent the downtime doing the Grouse Grind every day, getting my cardio up. Maybe a week and a half out of splint, I roped up with Brownie for some slabs and sport climbing.
Long story short, I flailed all over the place and felt pretty disappointed with myself. I knew I had to step it up and get some mileage.
A couple days later, I went unroped up Banana Peel and Butt Face. I felt really good the whole way up, and it seemed like my hiking was starting to positively affect my overall fitness.
The next day, I scrambled South Arete for the first time, and went up Ultimate Everything. Again, felt great the entire way up, save for wet feet at the end of the .10b traverse which I powered through.
After these climbs, plus a lap up the Grand which built my confidence up, I was feeling pretty well back to sending mode, although hot temperatures and a rebreak of my hand over the course of the summer limited my time on the rock.
Just a side note - My main reason for soloing this year was just that - to be alone. I've found that when concentrating on climbing, it leaves very little room for anything else, which I wanted.
Somewhere around mid September, and after much deliberation, I drove up with the intention of third classing Angels Crest.
I'm not sure if it's the same for everyone, or just me, but I find that the more I know about a route - which areas are insecure, which are likely to be wet, etc, the more I second guess myself.
Such was the case here, and on my way up, I just wasn't 100% positive. I had climbed the route before, I knew I could do the moves no problem, but I knew which areas I might crux out a bit in, and that left a nagging doubt in my mind.
As I was driving past the Grand Wall, I saw someone on U Wall. I was in no rush, so I stopped and spent about 20 minutes watching. It turned out to be Marc and his girlfriend Brette up there.
Continuing on, I hiked up to the AC base, and took the original right hand start to the base of Angel Crack.
It was midweek, and no longer summer, so I had hoped to have the route to myself, at least for the first few pitches. I really didn't want to have an audience. However, it seemed that my time spent observing U Wall shenanigans gave another party time to get to the same area I was now at, and they graciously offered to let me go first.
I hemmed and hawed for a moment, but eventually started up. I was really not a fan of these two guys watching me. At one of the little ledges about halfway up, I felt my phone vibrate in my pocket. I pulled it out, and it was my wife, who had just sent me a text to let me know that she loved me.
That was good enough reason to downclimb. There were just too many signs not to do it, y'know?
I came up with a new plan: I'd just go on an adventure and see what I could climb that I hadn't climbed before. If I didn't know anything about a route, I couldn't be scared of it, right?
First stop was Jungle Warfare on the Squaw. The first pitch was a little tenuous, just in terms of making a lot of small moves as opposed to a few big ones, but once that was over, the rest was a real delight.
My next stop was Hairpin on the Papoose. My route finding method was to use my phone to take a picture of the route description in the guide. However, it was a little vague on exactly which way to go after the first .10a pitch, and I resorted to calling Relic to give me directions. I knew there was an .11a variation somewhere, and I didn't want to end up on it.
Aside from that, it was a super fun climb. I got lost on the descent cause I went the original way south.
I then climbed Old Style to Cider Crack to Stephanies Tears on the Malemute, non of which I had done before. I followed that up with St Vitus Direct into Vector. I tried to OS solo Dessert Dyke as well, but warm temperatures resulted in stepping on a bolt at the crux (damn!)
I finished up on First Peak.
All in all, I had what I think could have been an El Cap day, at least in terms of pitches climbed. About 90% of what I climbed was onsight.
It was probably one of my best days climbing all year. I only ran into one party I think somewhere on the Butt Face.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2015 - 09:47pm PT
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Thanks guys! Sweet stories Nate. I take it you're done with hungover solos??
I really envy that man. I've always wanted to third class the Chief, but I never had the balls to actually go through with it. Now? Pretty sure it ain't worth it for me anymore....
Maybe if my foot worked good again and I got real strong i'd think differently. It was never mental thing.. I just never felt solid enough to risk it...
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The Call Of K2 Lou
Mountain climber
North Shore, BC
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Jan 11, 2015 - 09:56pm PT
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Yeah, "Ropeless Buttress" (or something like that) is on my really-really-want-to-do-some-day list. Just don't have the experience for that sort of endeavour yet. Great reading and muchos thanks for fueling the fires dude!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 12, 2015 - 12:43pm PT
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That Coast cover pic looks like the Lofoten Islands to me...
As for Porteau, not the roadside slabs, but some of the stuff higher up in the woods: spent a day there once rappelling down and scrubbing to look for routes. Weird crag. The most crackless, featureless slabs I've ever seen. Like 30 meters of slab with absolutely no features whatsoever. Not polished smooth, just totally monolithic. No edges, no crimpers, no bigger crystals sticking out, no chatter marks, zero, zilch, nada, nothing. Also no cracks. A texture like coarse sandpaper, and around 70 or 75 degrees.
It was a slab and it probably would have gone in the 11 to 12 range but it wasn't for me. Never went back.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jan 12, 2015 - 03:33pm PT
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BK: Retreat is always an option. It's just a matter of whether or not one is smart enough to choose it.
Big Mike: I don't think I've even climbed hungover since then. It's not even worth the pain for me. Later that same day, I tried TR soloing Split Beaver and almost threw up on the thing.
For me, the whole cordless thing is almost all mental. I know that I am physically capable of doing the moves, and it's just a matter of executing. If I don't think I can do it, then I don't even try.
It's strange, cause there isn't much else that you can really compare to soloing. This is a strange analogy, but it makes me think of in a movie where one guy enters a fight with like 10 guys who are all trying to kill him. He knows that he is capable of taking them all on at once, so he doesn't panic. He simply executes the same moves as he would were he training, with a level head, despite the fact that if he messes up, he's dead.
Weird, but that's what it makes me think of.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 12, 2015 - 03:41pm PT
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Tami, from the news reports and from what BK had to say, it sounds like a roped team of 3 fell from high on the Central Couloir. Two mid-30s people from Lower Mainland and one international visitor woman in mid-20s.
The husband of one climber reportedly found the first body and skiied out to initiate the rescue. Pretty horrible situation.
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Jan 12, 2015 - 06:12pm PT
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The latest update is that they are now identified as hikers, not climbers, who were wearing crampons and were roped together. Sounds like they had not placed any type of protection to arrest a fall. Tragic and condolences to the families, but it appears to be a case of inexperience.
Quote from news source "Backcountry skier Paul Cordy described this particular couloir as extremely dangerous.
"That's like the king line of the peak. I've actually skied that a couple of times and it is 100 per cent consequences," said Cordy.
"It's so steep that you're unable to arrest the fall on your own.... In general, that's a place where very experienced and capable mountaineers go."
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Jan 12, 2015 - 07:42pm PT
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Taking that approach to central colouir can only end one way....I'm sorry for the friends and families.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Jan 12, 2015 - 09:48pm PT
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Identified as "hikers" with crampons and roped together traveling where, "It's so steep that you're unable to arrest the fall on your own.... In general, that's a place where very experienced and capable mountaineers go."
That ain't hiking.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jan 12, 2015 - 10:27pm PT
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It will be interesting to hear the real story, "hikers" dont generally have ropes and the alpine select guide...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2015 - 12:15am PT
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Pique has a few more facts. Or so it seems.
Whistler RCMP has recovered the bodies of three ice climbers who were reported missing earlier Monday, Jan. 12.
Whistler RCMP Staff Sgt. Steve LeClair said indications are the tragedy was a result of "a catastrophic slip-and-fall accident" that took place near the top of Joffre peak's central couloir when one of the climbers fell and brought down the others, who were tied together.
"There was no avalanche debris, so it didn’t appear the cornice broke off or anything like that," he added.
Early information suggests the group was experienced in the backcountry, police said.
The victims have been identified as a man and women from the Lower Mainland in their mid-thirties, as well as a female international in her late twenties. Authorities are not releasing the names of the climbers at this time.
The three were part of a group of climbers and skiers in the area that had made plans to rendezvous at the end of the day. The skiers went searching for the climbers when they didn’t arrive on time. LeClair said one of the female victims was separated from the group in the fall and her body was discovered by her husband just after 1:30 a.m. Police were unable to access the area at that time and initiated the search at first light on Monday, with the two remaining victims' bodies discovered shortly after.
http://www.piquenewsmagazine.com/whistler/rcmp-investigating-death-of-ice-climber-searching-for-two-others-near-joffre-mountain/Content?oid=2636574
My condolences to the families and friends.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2015 - 09:56am PT
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Ya Jim. Not a great day. I'm sure Keith's hut was a sad place after that discovery...
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Stewart
Trad climber
Courtenay, B.C.
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Jan 16, 2015 - 07:13pm PT
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Thought I'd offer a short story about Daryl (Hatten). Well, it's not really a story, but rather a Kodak moment, so to speak.
It had to be back in the mid-eighties, and as usual the boys were over at my place in Victoria making spur of the moment plans to head off somewhere, and as usual I couldn't get vacation time to go along with them. This time their destination was the Cirque of the Unclimbables, and off they went.
After climbing thousands of glorious feet, they returned - about a week before somehow it was discovered that a film crew had headed in to get some footage for "The Clan of the Cave Bear".
So what, you may ask, but Daryl had a serious crush on the female lead, Daryl Hannah. Careful comparison of their names reveals an amazing similarity of spelling - a similarity that Daryl (Hatten) was convinced would have provided a foolproof opportunity for (our) Daryl to introduce himself to the lovely Ms. Hannah... if only the boys had arrived a goddamn week later.
It was nearly heartbreaking to witness Daryl gazing in despair (complete with furrowed brow) into his beer repeating his mantra of despair, which went "oh, man... man..." between gulps of his favourite beverage.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 16, 2015 - 07:50pm PT
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Like a Greek myth. Or a near myth.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Jan 17, 2015 - 09:23am PT
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Puntuality is everything...
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Stewart
Trad climber
Courtenay, B.C.
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Jan 17, 2015 - 03:49pm PT
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MH2: Yeah, but alas, no deus ex machina for this Greek Tragedy. He also had a crush on Mariette Hartley, whom I believe he met during his Yosemite days, but unfortunately I can't remember any details.
Edit
Re: the Mariette Hartley connection - this may contain inaccuracies - perhaps some of his Yosemite pals could provide more exact information, but I think he may have met her when she was in a movie that had scenes filmed on El Cap. This may be connected to the story about him scooping 7(?) fixed ropes from the cliff & somehow hoping to pull off this exploit without attracting attention from every life form within sight. It still cracks me up to think about what a climber with seven ropes draped about his body must look like - the Michelin Man would look positively anorexic in comparison.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 17, 2015 - 11:17pm PT
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Porteau Slabs? I know nuttink. Unless they are the roadside slabs which Jim Baldwin decided to solo one night, after too many brews. With predictable results.
Meanwhile back at Slab Alley. This is a pic of the 2nd asc, taken by Tricouni. [He and Anders think that it was the 3rd asc.] I got the US army surplus helmet at REI in Seattle, for US $2- and wore it for a while as a joke. My sweater is Royal Navy surplus, probably because the arms were a bit short. Does that army/navy combination make me a Marine?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 18, 2015 - 08:25am PT
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At least a Marine considering the style is braver than most latter day ascents. How many bolts were there? Here is Tricouni in about the same position as hamie, with Anders ahead, shortly after Anders cleaned up the route.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 18, 2015 - 10:17am PT
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what's the deal with Happy Trails? has it ever been repeated? i can see part of that roof at right in MH2's shot
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jan 18, 2015 - 11:06am PT
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That photo of Slab Alley reminds me of my first visit to Squamish in 1973.
I was fifteen at the time and hitching back to the Island from a work stint in the Peace country and having recently seen the Vertical Desert, had to check out Squamish.
I remember arriving at night, camping by the old locomotive in Stan Clarke Park and having breakfast at Caribou Jack's before trudging over to the Chief.
Somehow I found myself up near Slab Alley and soloing up that obvious ramp to the right in my mountaineering boots and deciding it was a bit too dirty and exposed and retreating.
I then wandered up Psyche Ledge and hiked to the base of the Grand marvelling at the grey wall rising straight out of the forest just like in the beginning of the documentary.
Some Brit was leading Exasperator free and whacking pins to protect it.
I thought that was pretty cool and shared some of the tea I'd brewed at the base with the guys.
Turns out it was Kevin and he let me try the climb on a top rope and I made it to the last little foothold about 30 feet up in my stiff boots.
I carried on to the Island and that summer climbed Albert Edward, joined the Ramblers and did my epic trip across Strathcona to the Golden Hinde with Croft, Simon and DeGroot.
Didn't make it back to Squamish till April of 76 and the rest as they say, is history.
Reflecting back on the forty years since, so am I.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 18, 2015 - 12:50pm PT
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Nice pic, MH2. It provides a great alternate perspective. Also another good tale from Perry.
When Glenn and I did SA it was only the 2nd [3rd?] time that anyone had climbed the Apron. I copied out Baldwin's lengthy [also hand-written] description, which I still have today. The details for the approach take 6 lines, as noone else knew anything about the Apron, and of course there was no trail.
When Anders rehabilitated the route I sent him a photocopy of Jim's original beta. All 15+ lines! The description for this traversing pitch [2nd] lists 2 bolts, and "belay on angle pitons". Only one other bolt is mentioned, on a "rounded ridge", pitch 7. I think that there was a short bolt ladder somewhere, but it is not described as such. Anders added a few more bolts in the interest of improving the line, and overall experience. This was done after considerable consultation with other climbers.
SA is lots of fun, and well worth the time. Today's young guns will likely dispense with the rope, and be up in 20-30 minutes. Others will linger longer, smelling the coffee.
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Stewart
Trad climber
Courtenay, B.C.
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Jan 18, 2015 - 04:24pm PT
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Chief: Ships that pass in the night. We climbed the Hinde in August(?) '73 to grab material for a book we were putting together about Strathcona Park. We headed in through Phillips Creek & came out by Western Mines & didn't meet another soul other than Bob Tustin and some of his pals who were heading out just as we were arriving.
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ajamunro
Social climber
BC
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Jan 24, 2015 - 03:14pm PT
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Hey all!
I've been reading up from the beginning of this thread. I've really enjoyed the stories, the TRs, the photos, and certainly the banter. I think I'm up to February 2013 right now. The time spent reading could of course be spent bettering myself, it is really getting me excited for this up coming season. The stoke, as they say, is high and the list of "must climb in 2015" continues the expand.
Here is my first contribution to this very well-intentioned thread.
Looking forward to the spring! My wife and I have been looking at houses, townhomes and condos in Squamish. I'm pretty gung-ho on the idea, my partner, not as much, but we're working on it.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 24, 2015 - 04:52pm PT
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That looks like September Song. You'd have been better off with both feet it it...
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Jan 25, 2015 - 10:13am PT
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Fun O Rama, named after the 1970's Chek TV , after school cartoon hour. I think September Song was a Joe Turley's route. A lot of the original routes up there have now been re worked, f..ked up and amalgamated into newer squeeze jobs.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 30, 2015 - 10:48pm PT
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Well this thread just got 750+ posts shorter and that's pretty lame. :-(
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2015 - 11:25pm PT
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That's really lame indeed!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2015 - 11:29pm PT
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Bruce Kay got banned! So they deleted everything he ever posted.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 31, 2015 - 12:10am PT
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Good one, BM. He had over 750 posts just on this thread. How come the total # of posts for this thread did not go down by the same amount? He's probably off in the sunshine, somewhere warm.
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Jan 31, 2015 - 06:21pm PT
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WTF Bruce always spoke his mind , has political correctness crept into Super Taco ? Anyone now why. Better yet who ever moderates this site should at the very least supply an explaination!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2015 - 06:55pm PT
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Lol Andy! I never saw that!! Thanks!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 31, 2015 - 11:02pm PT
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Well, I was wrong a few posts earlier. I thought it was a joke, but BK really has been banned. It's hard to believe. The tired old phrase "sad but true" sums it up.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 31, 2015 - 11:58pm PT
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Bruce was a little over the top on some of his Climate Change posts (less so than a couple of others who weren't banned). And he contributed fine material to other threads. Too bad he's gone.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Also posted on the "other thread".
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Yes Hamie!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2015 - 08:32pm PT
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Resurrecting Bruce Kay's legacy here...
Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
Sep 29, 2011 - 08:59am PT
how deliciously appropriate that meares island is now thick with alder!
Meares island was a reference to the battle for Clayquot sound between Loggers, Mac blo and the Government on one side and Greenpeace, hippies and grandmothers on the other. The malamute Meares Island held mature timber at one time. Chief could shed more light on this as wel as straw line and Loggers are people too.
While you guys are there, see what you can do with a wire brush and saw - those routes are worth bringing back to life!
edit: loggers are people too was long forgotten Tim Auger Aid route (hot Licks) that was revealed through some selective foliage thinning. Its now a really fun 10c but probably needs a little scrub
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2015 - 08:31am PT
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Time for a bump. Anyone climbing today?
It wasn't wet in the bluffs yesterday....
;)
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 15, 2015 - 09:16am PT
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I'll be heading up shortly. See ya soon.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2015 - 09:18am PT
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Sweet!
Yesterday was fun. Heather and I wanted to get on Over Forty again, but when we got to burgers, it was a top rope gong show, so we wandered down to Alexis.
Signs, signs, everywhere there's signs.
When we finished up at Alexis we wandered back by burgers and the same group was still gangbanging over forty.
So we went up to Penny to see what Kyle was up to.
Kyle on Heath Hazard 10a
It got chilly pretty quickly and I wanted to attend the Jello show last night, so we bailed and went for Mag's.
Mmmmm Chimmie!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 15, 2015 - 07:37pm PT
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Me jealous! [jello-us?]
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Feb 16, 2015 - 08:44am PT
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Whuddah happens when you mix bored AZNs stuffed with mags, a bit of damp rock, late night ice cream, and a breeder of bears with too many lumens?
You shrunk that dudes fluorescent green action suit 3 sizes?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2015 - 10:59am PT
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Nice Eric. We missed you at mag's. It was crazy in there! It was crazy at the bluffs too. Everyone and thier dog was on the scene!!!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 16, 2015 - 06:04pm PT
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After intermission Michael Kennedy presented his autobiographical show "Finding the Balance". Another excellent presentation by a climber for climbers. No posing, no posturing, no spray ; just the real fekkin' deal from an honest-to-god excellent man.
The climbing and accomplishments were honest, but starting at 1030 PM and reading from notes made it soporific for me - left around the time he was on Gash V because I had started nodding off :(
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Feb 16, 2015 - 10:27pm PT
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Like if like weed didn't have seeds, well how could there be any weed?
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Feb 16, 2015 - 11:57pm PT
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MK and OG... hmm, what about Mrs. Bubba
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 20, 2015 - 08:04am PT
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Just spent a few days up in beautiful Vancouver with my beautiful wife, and ran up to Squamish for the morning on Wednesday. Didn't see many climbers other than pad people. What a beautiful day to climb it was, and me without my gear!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 20, 2015 - 08:52am PT
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Excellent mooser.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 20, 2015 - 09:46am PT
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Thanks!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 20, 2015 - 11:21am PT
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What a beautiful day to climb it was, and me without my gear!
Time for Tom to put a big "Note To Self" on his refrigerator:
NEXT TIME, BRING MY GEAR!!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2015 - 04:16pm PT
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Nice Tom! Next time bring your gear and shoot me a message.
Twas another nice day today. Sandra and i got out for a few pitches at the bluffs.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 21, 2015 - 06:57am PT
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Sounds good, Big Mike! The Bluffs looked perfect, sunlit, and begging for activity.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2015 - 10:52am PT
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Last weekend was fun. Sunday Heather and I started out at Burgers & Fries because we both wanted to get on Over 40. It was a gong show as per usual, but we managed to work a few laps in.
Kyle was bouldering in the Mosquito area, so we cruised over there.
Hydro's done a little thinning lately...
Mosquito Area
Much more open and the crag dries significantly faster now, which is nice.
Kyle on the smoke bluff trail slab
Relic doing some nice spotting.
The Bluffs has really undergone a renaissance lately. Bouldering problems are springing up all over the place. The craglets which were bypassed by the previous generation are being mined for their hard moves.
Getting a bit highball.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2015 - 01:44pm PT
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If you happen to be in town today, check out the Sheriffs Badge. Look for a party up in the roofs..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2015 - 05:05pm PT
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A couple of Cowboys and Indians...
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 21, 2015 - 05:54pm PT
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Is that Sheriff's Badge in the pic, Big Mike?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2015 - 06:19pm PT
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Yes Tom. Luke and Kieran are on Cowboys and Indians. They were going light so it's probably gonna be a long one for them. Luke is jugging over the upper roof, in the dark, as i write this.
I see lights on the buttress as well as the badge. Epic time! ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2015 - 07:17pm PT
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Lol nwo. Tom is Mooser. Sorry to confuse you.
I talked to Kieran. He said they had two pitches left to Sasquatch and he wasn't sure what the plan would be after that.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2015 - 07:54pm PT
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Luke says they have no bivy gear.. With lows of 0c tonight i bet they're gonna run up Angel's and finish.
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RyanD
climber
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Feb 21, 2015 - 08:35pm PT
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Nice shots Mike.
technically ppl have been bouldering in the bluffs for probably 40 years, in the last 8 or 9 though the smaller steeper rocks definitely started getting used.
Hey NWO I'm still stumped, say what's up if u see me out there.
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Feb 21, 2015 - 08:41pm PT
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The Chief's alive tonight!
The boys on C&I, taken an hour ago.. also, lights on the top of the Buttress and Bellygood..not bad for Feb 21!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2015 - 09:51pm PT
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Ryan- Of course. I just meant that the way people look at the smaller bluffs these days is different.
Saugy- Thanks! Looks like Luke had just reached the 5th belay, on that second photo which means one A1 pitch to Sasquatch.
Jim- Are you suggesting that navigating Sasquatch ledge in the dark might be interesting?
:)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2015 - 10:13pm PT
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Jim- Have you stayed in the bivy cave on Sasquatch??
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Feb 22, 2015 - 12:36am PT
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I wonder if a couple of lads are having a bivy on top of the sheriff tonight.....
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 22, 2015 - 07:16am PT
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Enjoyed this write-up of a solo ascent of Cowboys and Indians on Cascade Climbers. Looks pretty amazing for such a relatively short climb!
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Feb 22, 2015 - 07:36am PT
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Super long pitches on Cowboys. I remember the roof pitch being absurd, i think it was about 35m to the roof then through the roof and up more for a good 55m of climbing. Crazy rope drag and so much rack....it was put up solo so no drag issues.
It gets a few ascents too, I can think of 5 in the last couple of years. Got one last night.....
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 22, 2015 - 10:09am PT
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Any update on the Sheriff's Badge team? Hopefully Luke writes a TR.
We were climbing at Shuteye yesterday, very fun, but we shouldn't be up there without snowmobiles right now.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2015 - 11:13am PT
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Super long pitches on Cowboys. I remember the roof pitch being absurd
ya it is... the anchor is at the top of the black streak on the crescent.
same shot with more perspective
Original Image
no updates yet. they're probably sleeping it off... somewhere.. ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2015 - 12:47pm PT
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I heard from the boys. 18hr push, and they slept in the bivy cave at the top.
Both enjoyed the route despite some scary rockfall shenanigans on one of the expando traverse flakes. I'll let them expand on that thought.
They rapped down the gully early this morning as they hadn't brought any bigger gear for Angel's.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Feb 22, 2015 - 04:42pm PT
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Yeah, the A1 traverse is sketch....
Im just getting off fluffy kitten wall now....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2015 - 05:18pm PT
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Nice Nick. What was it like up there??
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Feb 22, 2015 - 06:51pm PT
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Awesome. A little iced up in critical spots but totally clean and easy access.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 22, 2015 - 10:04pm PT
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I was a little curious about the actual climbing up on the Sheriff's Badge. I assume it is mostly aid. How much of it is fixed and how much is clean. Do you still need a hammer and any old school metal like a piton? Heads, beaks, hooks, rurps? I'm just a retired old-school heavy-metal fart that wants to know how the kids get it done these days. How many times did you use some kind of cam?
Post up Luke or Kieran, please. You guys owe me that much.
Smoldering in Seattle.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Feb 22, 2015 - 11:17pm PT
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Wayno I've been up the badge twice via aid routes, and yes everything is aid if your route goes to the top of Sasquatch Ledge. Some cool free routes also share the space but are only a few pitches long.
Our party on Cowoys hammered about 4 times I think. I didn't hammer anything and did the crux and the roof, but I certainly clipped fixed gear all over the place. There are many fixed heads on pitch two.
Also did the Sherrifs Badge route and once again, I only placed two pieces of gear on the crux pitch. Total clip up. The rest went mostly clean, maybe a dozen fixed pieces and 6 hammered.
I star at that wall everyday from my house, it's super rad!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 23, 2015 - 10:02am PT
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Cowboys and Indians A3+
FA Perry Beckham solo
FOD Perry Beckham, Scott Cosgrove
An engaging, exciting and adventurous route on an outrageously steep chunk of rock. The route for he most part follows exfoliating flakes interspersed with wild hooking sections and rivet ladders.
I would estimate 40 hook placement on the 3 pitches led, most of which bolt protected though there were some section protected by equalized fixed head(which I hooked around but equalized with a screamer) some on the hooking on p2 was protected by hand placed pitons and beaks. The last pitch involved hooking around a c1 hand crack I didn't have cams for.
On the "A1" traverse section of pitch 3 I was cam jugging between fixed cams and about 15 feet left of my last protection piece standing on one cam and sussing out another, when I added a bit of weight to my next piece a 3'x2'x6" section of the flake snapped right off hittin me in the left wrist and continuing downward.
I instantly began yelling rock at the top of my lungs. As the rock hit the slab below it exploded in to 3 big pieces 2 of which landed within a meter in either side of a fellow climber who unbeknownst to us was down below. The third chunk of this section of flake grazed this woman's beanie, which was on her helmetless head. Within millimetres of total skull obliteration.
The rest of pitch was stout with some free climbing past some hand place tomahawks, some thinness and underestimation of the difficulty.
Kieran got us through the roof and to the start of the last pitch at a steady pace given the steepness, fatigue and lack of water.
For ultimate efficiency I would have preferred to do each a block of 3 pitches but Kieran wanted the first pitch but not the second so he led p1, p4 and p5. Leaving me with p2, p3 and p6. Making for 3 leader swaps and associated friggery.
Overall a great outing with an excellent partner. Great to get back into saddle being that it was our first wall in over a year.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 23, 2015 - 10:12am PT
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Sh#t yeah Luke! Nice pics and climbing all day it sounds like. Holy sh#t on the beanie graze.
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RyanD
climber
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Feb 23, 2015 - 10:14am PT
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Nice stuff Luke but you didn't provide the info that everyone is dying to know.
Who lead the spooning?
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Slabby D
Trad climber
B'ham WA
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Feb 23, 2015 - 10:27am PT
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I always thought climbers took cragging below other climbers in Squish a little too casually. Nice work for February!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 23, 2015 - 10:58am PT
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Haha Ryan, I Laughed Quietly to Myself (LQTM) almost LOL'd.
Ha, the horns again and on post 7666!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2015 - 11:04am PT
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Is that FFA? First Feburary Ascent. ;)
It's too bad i'm a dumbass and i didn't. Bring my good camera... I found a better spot to shoot from with no wires, so hopefully you guys do the badge route too one of these days, and i can get some sweet close-ups.
Nice work, both of youz. Very proud ascent. Got my wall stoke burning again.
Lol Justin!! I'm always doing the horns lately.. ;)
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 23, 2015 - 11:43am PT
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Ditto. Same granite, different world.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 23, 2015 - 12:42pm PT
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Awesome! Good job on the climb and the TR, Luke. That pretty much answers my questions. Thanks.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Feb 23, 2015 - 01:54pm PT
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Yes, great job, and different world.
A question: my knowledge of the names of some of the features there is sadly out of date. Is Sasquatch Ledge the big treed area under the Acrophobes?
Glenn
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2015 - 02:20pm PT
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Glenn- not quite. Right at the top of the badge. It's clearly visible at the top of my mid closeup.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Feb 23, 2015 - 03:17pm PT
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Does that let you walk/scramble off into the South Gully?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2015 - 04:22pm PT
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Yes. The boys rapped into the gully.
BmacD sighting at Penny Lane!
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Feb 23, 2015 - 06:29pm PT
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anyone know this chickenhead?
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Feb 23, 2015 - 06:53pm PT
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nope.
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Jstod
Trad climber
North Vancouver
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Feb 23, 2015 - 07:26pm PT
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Magic Carpet Ride…?
If so, is the bottom dry? it tends to stay slimy longer than most slabs.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Feb 23, 2015 - 07:47pm PT
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yes and yes.
the last pitch is a tad slimy at the top..
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 23, 2015 - 08:27pm PT
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Nice how you can see the bolt clipped in your photo.
I know that chickenhead, or its cousin.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 23, 2015 - 09:29pm PT
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What I mainly use my photos for is watching them on the screensaver at 6 seconds per, while listening to music. With 573 tracks and over 120,000 images and random shuffle there is not much obvious repeating, but just now I saw an image twice in a short interval. I will do the math eventually to find the expected waiting time for a repeat, but for now:
Why are aid climbers found between hydro lines?
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Feb 23, 2015 - 09:32pm PT
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those chickenheads are fricking amazing..
nothing else like it in all of squambodia.
couldn't help myself, i had to stop to take a photo.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Feb 23, 2015 - 10:14pm PT
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What route MH2?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2015 - 11:14pm PT
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Nwo- as much as i like this climbing in February stuff... It's pretty surreal dude.
Nice pics guys! Kyle got me on MCR a long time ago. It was really cool. And really hard.
Isn't that the one they found the bleach on recently?
Kieran if you like chickenheads you gotta go to Shuteye buddy...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 24, 2015 - 06:38am PT
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Kieran if you like chickenheads you gotta go to Shuteye buddy...
Or Cochise
Why are aid climbers found between hydro lines?
How else would they get the electricity they need to make all those weird tools they use work?
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Feb 24, 2015 - 06:40am PT
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Marc got the first one day solo ascent of Cowboys in a very quick time. He daisy soloed it.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 24, 2015 - 07:41am PT
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I don't remember the name but this should identify it.
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Slabby D
Trad climber
B'ham WA
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Feb 24, 2015 - 07:47am PT
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Marc deserves a huge amount of respect but.....daisy soloing some of those pitches (particularly the second) is totally nuts.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Feb 24, 2015 - 08:33am PT
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it wasnt all daisy chain soloed...
he may be crazy but he's not insane
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Feb 24, 2015 - 09:23am PT
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What about this pitch???
Megauberobscura
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Feb 24, 2015 - 10:26am PT
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I haven't a clue where that is, but I love the moody photo.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 24, 2015 - 10:31am PT
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I know where that is, but probably only cause I yelled at you from the bottom. I'll let someone else have a guess.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 24, 2015 - 11:35am PT
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Great image, brownie.
The Unscrubbed Country?
Sports Illustrated?
I can't make a positive ID.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Feb 24, 2015 - 03:26pm PT
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MH2, ya gotta make up your mind man!
haha, though i appreciate the shotgun technique..
might have hit your target?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 24, 2015 - 04:03pm PT
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Well, The Unscrubbed Country is just imagination. What tipped the balance toward Sports Illustrated was the fixed line.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2015 - 05:22pm PT
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Hahaha! Another great day at the bluffs. I was informed today that apparently mcr is easier at 11c than my over 40 project.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Feb 24, 2015 - 06:23pm PT
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Sharp eyes, MH... sharp eyes.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 24, 2015 - 09:02pm PT
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Looks like that route might be a little lonesome out there. Glad you gave it attention. Great to see some of the activity during this good weather. TFPU.
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RyanD
climber
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Feb 24, 2015 - 09:33pm PT
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It's at burgers, don't know the name. Shorty on the left that just got recleaned & maybe bolts added replaced? Left of the gravy.
Edit- actually I take that back!! The trees too big, maybe burgers far right of those other little guys before Big Jims newish climbs. I really want it to be burgers, the path back there makes me think that. Doesn't matter anyways it only looks 6' taller than Big Mike.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2015 - 09:39pm PT
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Ok, so i got confused. I thought we were talking about Natural Carpet Ride 10c at Crystal Wall.
Eric and I had a fun day at burgers. We climbed 3 routes there i've never done. An old Jim Sinclair route Eric just cleaned on the far right of burgers, a nice little 5.7 which takes perfect gear from .5 to 2" has nice anchor.
Then we climbed this Tall Can Al number.
Bearbreeder on False Friends 5.7
After we climbed Frying Brownies 10a, and i got another lap in on Over Forty...
Pretty good considering i broke my back 730 days ago...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2015 - 10:03pm PT
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Yes.. Foot in the gravy 10d.. My rubber is hurting.. Lol
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2015 - 10:11pm PT
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I remember that! Was it Anders who posted that classic photo?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2015 - 11:45am PT
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Here's the whole classic discussion of Don Serl's "dryfooting" on Foot In The Gravy.
David Harris
Sep 19, 2010 - 11:13pm PT
Once upon a time climbers in Vancouver would gather at a sleazy bar called The Cecil every Wednesday night. Drink bad beer, talk about climbing, tell lies, make plans... The usual. One drunken evening somebody mentioned a route named "Foot in the Gravy."
Silly little 30-foot route in the Little Smoke Bluffs at Squamish. 10c on an 75-degree wall with two bolts.
And this started an argument. Don Serl was there that night, and he happened to say something like "Oh, right, neat little edging problem." To which Konrad Kraft replied "Edging? You must be thinking of something else. 'Foot in the Gravy' is a slab. Smearing all the way."
"Smearing? No, it's little edges from bottom to top."
"Edges? Are you nuts? It's a slab."
"Slab? No, you're nuts. There are edges everywhere you look. There are so many edges I could climb it in crampons."
"Bullsh!t."
"Not bullsh!t. I could front-point the whole thing."
"Wanna bet?"
"Sure."
So, the following weekend, everyone who had been in the pub that night wandered out to the Burgers & Fries cliff in the Smoke Bluffs, and watched Don lace up his mountain boots and lash on the crampons. And carefully and concisely front-point his way up 30 feet of 10c as a light rain began to fall.
Of course most of us had climbed the thing a hundred times in sticky shoes, but Don had that edge mentality that comes from spending thousands of hours in stiff boots on steep rock.
So what's the takeaway? Maybe it's in your own mind. Or, if you'd been standing where I was standing, you'd have been able to see the tier of cliffs above, and like me you'd have been torn between watching Don front-point his way up "Foot in the Gravy on a toprope" and looking up to watch Peter Croft solo "Flying Circus."
I mention this because the light rain had influenced Peter's choice of footwear...
He took off his shoes and climbed it in his socks.
Tami Knight
FOtos from my "red book" of Don Serl on Foot in the Gravy . It was because Kon Kraft said it couldn't be done in crampons that Don went for it. Too dodgy to lead the thing but he did the route on toprope.
Anders Ourum
I placed the bolts on that dumb thing, tried it, but for some reason didn't actually do it - although it's basically a three move 'climb', and not very hard. Ghost, were you with me then?
David Harris
Nope. I've climbed it, of course, but wasn't involved in the FA.
It's gotta be what? 30 feet? Hard to even call it a "route" but it holds a special place in my memory because it was one of the routes I climbed with Andy (MH2) on my first day of climbing after getting my leg bolted back onto my body.
I love this stuff. How's the book going Anders? ;)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 25, 2015 - 01:16pm PT
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Check out the belay in the second picture of Don on FITG.
And who is the belayer?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2015 - 02:03pm PT
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Sweet Hip Belay! :)
I don't know who the belayer is. I tried to cheat but Tami couldn't remember when she originally posted it... Lol
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 25, 2015 - 02:16pm PT
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Sweet Hip Belay! :)
And no need to bother with one of those silly "climbing harness" things.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 25, 2015 - 02:44pm PT
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Before the rains arrived this afternoon, I finally finished the retro-scrubbing and re-bolting of Movin' to Montana. My sincere apologies to anyone who went to do this old classic over the last two years and had to work around my fixed lines. I don't make the time I used to for route cleaning, and sometimes get distracted for months at a time.
I first did this route in '99 or so, and was quite captivated by its tenuous linking of small discontinuous features. Back then there was still one or two pins on the traverse at the end of the third pitch, and many on the fourth. Nowadays the route has gotten a reputation for being quite runout in that area. From asking a few of the Old Guard, It sounds like the pitch 3 traverse used to be a quite well protected clip-up, with pins every few of body lengths.
Overall, the route had a mish-mash of fixed protection ranging from pitons, (all but one were completely rusted to bits), 1/4 inch stainless, and carbon steel bolts, and 3/8 stainless and carbon steel bolts. Most anchors had at least four bolts of varying age, size, and quality. All bolts that were not 3/8 inch stainless were upgraded, and all of the pins were replaced with bolts unless solid natural pro was available in it's place or close by. Anchors were consolidated to 2 good bolts.
The cracks on pitch 1 and 3 had filled in with soil and weeds quite badly in spots, and got the royal treatment. The small cedar that you wrestled through half way up the tips corner on pitch 1 also had to go. This may up the grade a notch, time will tell.
Please give the route some lovin' this season. It's an inspiring line, and it's easy to imagine the first ascentionist's excitement of leading off into the unknown with a hand drill and some pins. With big exposure and tenuous thin cracks and slab, the route still retains its spicy feel. Even the rap over the big roof to get down is pretty fun.
K
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 25, 2015 - 03:48pm PT
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Well done Kris. I hope the route sees more traffic now.
And re the belayer in the photo, It looks kind of like Doug Fox, who was certainly a friend of Don's, but I'm not sure. Hard to imagine him in the pub with us scruffier types, but who knows?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2015 - 06:06pm PT
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Nice work Kris.
Eric did one more route yesterday. Travis had cleaned up a nice 5.7 crack left of the burgers walk off.
He left his rope on it, so i snapped some pics of Eric on the solo FFA
Bearbreeder scoping the route.
Starting up. A little solo FA cleaning.
Tall Can Al spots.
I'll just clean this lock up a bit...
Reaching for glory.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 25, 2015 - 06:19pm PT
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Here's the only phone shot I took today of the tips corner on M2M after the stump was pulled. Sorry for no scale in the picture... Its purple to blue TCU's for about 10m. Old school 10d. For you Valley folks, it's similar to the last pitch of The Moratorium, but not as steep.
K
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RyanD
climber
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Feb 25, 2015 - 07:57pm PT
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Looking forward to checking this out scrubber, thanks for the efforts- post more pics when u get a chance!!
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 25, 2015 - 09:05pm PT
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Hey KW - is that picture of the first pitch of Moving to Montana Commando Crack, as it is called in the guidebook? Or above Commando Crack?
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 25, 2015 - 10:22pm PT
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It's the pitch above Commando Crack. Most folks start up to the right near the base of the Java Jive slab. I sure wish there was some way to divert the water flow that seeps out of the bottom half of Commando Crack. It's wet for so long that it needs a scrub every season that it actually dries.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 26, 2015 - 08:39am PT
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Another thanks, Kris. An excellent choice for some work.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Feb 26, 2015 - 09:08am PT
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This thread makes me want to move to Squamish for a few lifetimes (then back to Yos for the long haul).
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2015 - 11:44am PT
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Thanks Tad and Lebruce! I often wonder how many taco regulars lurk here.
Kris- MTM looks super fun. Thanks for all your hard work.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Feb 26, 2015 - 12:16pm PT
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Not sure I'd consider myself a regular, but I lurk a lot. Great thread!!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Feb 28, 2015 - 07:57pm PT
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I never met him, but he sounded like an amazing guy. Condolences to family and friends.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Feb 28, 2015 - 08:39pm PT
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My Condolnces to Tami, and Paul's friends and family. If you google his name there are many interesting pieces written about him over the years. He was a very talented visionary.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aw sh#t. What a shame.
Check out his Flickr feed here. In addition to many mountain pics there are lots of digitally retouched scans from classic early 20th century magazines, which was another hobby of his.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/paulmalon/
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2015 - 10:23am PT
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My condolences to Tami and all his friends and loved ones. Thanks for the link Dru.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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I'm sorry to steer this away from the sad news of the passing of Paul Malon, but we need the community's assistance.
I've been asked by the coroner's service as a member of Squamish SAR to post the following press release:
March 2, 2015
BC Coroners Service seeks public assistance with identification
VANCOUVER – The BC Coroners Service, assisted by Squamish Search and Rescue and Squamish
RCMP, is seeking the public’s help in recovering some skeletal remains from the Stawamus Chief
near Squamish.
On Feb. 27, 2015, these agencies were made aware of the possibility that skeletal remains had
been found in the upper south gully of the Stawamus Chief where climbers could exit on treed
ledges left from the "Squamish buttress" route into a gully. As a result of receiving this
information, the agencies entered into a multi-agency recovery exercise in the area on Feb. 28.
During the recovery exercise, it was noted that an additional person or persons had apparently
entered the area at some point between 3 p.m. on Feb. 26 when the remains were last seen,
and noon on Feb. 28. It is believed that this person or persons may have unknowingly become
involved in the recovery operation.
The BC Coroners Service would like to stress that there is no suggestion that this person or
persons had any improper motives nor that they are in any legal difficulty as a result. However,
the BC Coroners Service would like to speak with this person or anyone else who may be able
to assist with this recovery.
Anyone with information is asked to call the Metro Region coroner at 604 660-7731 or text the
Whistler-Squamish coroner at 604 815-3567.
Media Contact:
Barb McLintock
Coroner, Strategic Programs
BC Coroners Service
Barbara.mclintock@gov.bc.ca
Thanks for any help you may be able to provide. If you'd feel more comfortable contacting me directly with any information you may have, please feel free.
Kris Wild
Squamish SAR
604-815-8637
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RyanD
climber
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Uhhhh???
That press release is kind of ambiguous.
Creepy stuff.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Yeah, I hope nobody took a West Pole Brand jacket off the corpse to check if it fit them.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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A body could stay unfound for many years in parts of that gully. Nobody goes in parts of it.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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A body could stay unfound for many years in parts of that gully. Nobody goes in parts of it.
I bet you and Hamish know all about this. Probably some guy who was going to get on one of your planned first ascents ahead of you...
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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That would have been Fred, and he's still around!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2015 - 10:31pm PT
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Crazy! Hope they didn't stir up any pterodactyl nests!
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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The remains were just over two years old. Last summer the RCMP was notified of what was suspected to be human remains by climbers who had scrambled or rapped into the gully to retrieve a dropped camera case from the Squamish Buttress.
The RCMP and Coroner requested SAR's assistance in recovering the remains. Many of the large bones and the person's clothing were recovered at that time. Unfortunately the vegetation was so thick at that time of year that many of the small bones could not be found, and may have been assumed to be lost.
On Thursday the 26'th I was scrambling up there on my own (not looking for remains) and came across some of the missing smaller bones in an area that seasonally would be thick with ferns and other plants, but right now is completely open. I informed SAR, who contacted the agencies who were involved before to see if this was the same area. (I wasn't on the recovery last summer) The coroner's office asked if we would again assist in attempting to retrieve the balance of the remains, so that there would hopefully be no future calls about other finds in that area.
I tucked the remains that I had located off to the side of the gully away from the loose wash area. When we returned on Saturday the 28th, those remains were missing, and there were what appeared to be very fresh foot prints in the moss leading to or from the Squamish Buttress. We recovered what we hope to be the balance of what was in the area, and jugged out.
We talked to several local climbers who spotted climbers several pitches from the top of the Buttress just before dark on Friday the 27'th. It is unknown if these climbers finished the route, or descended, possibly by route of the gully. If they happened to pick up the remains, its not a big deal. No one is in trouble. The Coroner's office simply needs to consolidate and inventory all of the remains, so that the case can be closed. If these remains turn up somewhere else, its a whole lot more paperwork for someone, and it may take a long time to be linked to the correct case. They can be turned in anonymously even. No Problem .
As I said before, feel free to contact me directly if you'd like. We're just trying to give as much closure to this case as possible for the family, and the agencies involved.
Thanks,
Kris Wild
604-815-8637
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RyanD
climber
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Thanks for clarifying Kris.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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The missing remains have been turned over to the coroner. Many thanks for the community cooperation to have this resolved!
Kris
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2015 - 04:26pm PT
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Nice Kieran!!
Live from the pillar!!
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Killing it Mike! You still in the big boy harness?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2015 - 06:44pm PT
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Ya buddy. Gonna try out my safe harness tomorrow. Think it should be good. It wasn't pretty today. Definetly not at the top of my game yet. But i got up there!!
Looking forward to tying in with you again Greg.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2015 - 08:37pm PT
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Luke and I went for a run up the Grand last week, Wall style.
It was my first time short fixing, and Luke did all the leading and hauling. I was trying to free as much as possible on my ushba.
We started on Apron Strings and Luke had the first pitch fixed in no time.
I struggled trying to free it and self belay and I ended up jugging it. I only had one jug and aider so it ended up being very inefficient.
It was good lesson.
#1. Only try and free stuff well within my abilities.
#2. Take off excess layers when climbing. Better to be cold at the belay than sweating buckets on the pitch.
#3. You're not as strong as you used to be.. Yet. ;)
I got to the belay and Luke was already up the next corner. I sorted the rack quickly and tagged it up to him.
I said "on belay" and he set off quickly for the tree. The line was fixed again in no time, and I was ready for it. This pitch flowed much better and despite a couple hangs for a few well placed nuts, I followed it free.
Pulling over the lip. I looked up to find Luke hanging off the second bolt of Merci Me.
Another quick change over and Luke was off like a rocket.
I followed the next pitch quickly and ended up doing a bit of a tension traverse at the end to reach the anchor.
Up till now i had been rushing so much, I never had an opportunity to pull out the camera. A little more time at the belay provided me a moment to take a couple shots while Luke ran out his slack.
The Golden Throat Charmer
The traverse to the pillar with Howe Sound behind
Luke was kind enough to provide me a belay for the traverse pitch, but it wasn't pretty. I was pretty worn out by the time i reached the belay.
Luke at the split pillar belay.
Kyle and Nina were little specks on peasants route.
We decided to have lunch on top of the pillar and then bail. Luke set off and I soon realized our decision well timed.
Luke taking advantage of the no hands stance..
Life is Grand..
I hope you like jammin'
Pano
My performance on the pillar was sub-par to say the least. The moves we all there but my body was just way too tired to do them. I cheated through the layback start and after much hanging scratched my way up the thing..
On top we ate our sandwiches greedily and enjoyed our perch for a bit before we descended back to the lush forest below.
It felt pretty good to get back to a place I had dreamed of returning for the past couple years.
This thing haunts my dreams.
Hope you've all enjoyed this nice dry weather! Looks like it will be wet for a bit.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Mar 11, 2015 - 08:49pm PT
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Damn, the Pillar looks way too f*#king good. Nice pics and climbing.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 11, 2015 - 08:53pm PT
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Yayyyyy Mike! And Luke too for rope gunnin with ya. Awesome to see you getting after it. The base of the pillar probably hasn't seen haul bags for quite a while!
Your photo of looking up at Luke on the pillar made me want to get you a new rope, then I realized it was just the photo stitching software.... :)
K
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2015 - 09:07pm PT
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Thanks Justin! It's gravy man!
Kris! Thanks buddy! Lol, ya the iphone pano does funny things to moving objects. Lol. We gotta hook up soon! I got a present for ya.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 11, 2015 - 09:09pm PT
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Thanks for that ^^^ Mike.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2015 - 10:07pm PT
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You're welcome Darwin!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 11, 2015 - 10:20pm PT
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Hey Mike, makes me very happy to see you on that!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2015 - 11:59pm PT
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Thanks Glenn! Congrats on the success of your book!
Tami! So crazy. It's basically felt like spring most of the winter..
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 12, 2015 - 10:38pm PT
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Jim
It probably took a lot of beer to achieve it. Speaking of which...........
........Piton lager beer, the mystic mountain taste.............
........Brewed exclusively for OGs.
Goooooooood.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 12, 2015 - 11:25pm PT
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Hamie, great photo. Did you bring any "pitons" back?
Jim, nice photo; where is it?
The book is the brand new "Hot Springs of Western Canada." Yes, it's a guidebook, and no, it's got zilch Squamish or climbing content. But we are really happy with it. It made #4 on the BC bestseller list last week.
Seeing as you asked....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2015 - 09:10am PT
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Hi Hamie!
Nice Glenn!
Jim- loving these old scans!! Keep em coming!! Find any old Squamish slides yet? ;)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 13, 2015 - 09:52am PT
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Nice looking book there Glenn.
Here's a few more photos from our trip up the pillar.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 13, 2015 - 10:46am PT
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Glenn
Yes, I got two double sets of all the big sizes, P6 to P12. :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2015 - 11:50am PT
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Luke, thanks for the pics, and the stoke. It was rad getting out there again with you.
Eric- yeehaw! Looks like you've been having fun! Thanks for the pics bro! We'll have to get out again soon.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 14, 2015 - 02:52pm PT
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Has anyone seen any small (or large)Garry Oak trees at Squamish? Years ago there was one somewhere at the base of the main wall, somewhere between the Grand Wall and South South Gully.
Does anybody know if this is still there? Any other ones in the Squamish areas?
Thanks...
Glenn
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Mar 14, 2015 - 06:51pm PT
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Are you a member of the Garry Oak Preservation Society?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2015 - 07:47pm PT
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Wow Jim! So cool! Thanks! Penalty Box? The only one i'm familiar with is a sport climb in Calcheck. One of the Negro Lesbian pitches?
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Mar 14, 2015 - 08:09pm PT
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This one time when the Fire Marshall came by?
;-P
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 14, 2015 - 08:13pm PT
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Nice shots, Jim.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2015 - 10:32pm PT
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Jim that's a rad photo. Looks fun!! So awesome to see your slides.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2015 - 11:06pm PT
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I know.
I would absolutely love to see more of Peder's stuff...
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 15, 2015 - 09:51am PT
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Hi Tami, thanks for the oak comments. Anders emailed that apparently oak (not Garry) was identified in the park during the planning process; I'll have to follow up.
I was just following up, out of curiosity, a 50-year-old memory of mine. Maybe I'll just take a hike along the base there and see for myself!
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Mar 15, 2015 - 12:12pm PT
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anyone know this outrageous nook of the chief?
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Mar 15, 2015 - 01:11pm PT
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Sunshine Breakfast?
Backside yo.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Mar 15, 2015 - 03:39pm PT
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Sunshine Breakfast
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2015 - 04:46pm PT
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Looks interesting Kieran! I have to do way more climbing back there..
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Mar 15, 2015 - 04:48pm PT
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wow.. too easy.
Sunshine Breakfast is right, I guess if one has visited the climb it would be hard to forget that swooping cavern..
Tami, the cacademon boulders and surrounding area offers some of the finest tunneling in squamish. Quite a time..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2015 - 05:35pm PT
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I know i have one of you in there bud.. But i can't find it atm. Here's another favorite of mine instead.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2015 - 06:22pm PT
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Aka The Mamquam Blind Channel Tami?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 15, 2015 - 08:00pm PT
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Mike, is that photo from the top of the Bulletheads/South South Gully?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2015 - 09:08pm PT
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Glenn- No sir! That would be Memorial Ledge.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 15, 2015 - 10:52pm PT
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Great photos everyone! Love to see the old and new material getting the psyche up for the season. Now to serious matters - Oaks:
There are indeed Garry oaks in Squamish, and they are native, if not common here. The easiest ones to find are likely in the Smoke Bluffs. There are a few around Penny Lane. The most prominent one being the tree 15 feet up that you likely slung before entering the depths of Satan's Slit, just right of Penny Lane itself. Theres one on the ledge right of the top of Kangaroo Corner, and I believe another one below the left end of Neat and Cool. The largest one I've seen around the bluffs is out near the end of the little promontory that sticks out into the blind channel near The Zip.
The easiest time to find them is early winter when all the other deciduous trees have dropped their leaves, but the Garry Oaks cling stubbornly to their full canopies of shrivelled brown leaves, often until springtime.
K
Now back to your regularly scheduled climbing. Heres one from Friday the 13th (!) of a visiting friend from Reno:
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 15, 2015 - 11:08pm PT
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Scrubber, thanks muchly for the data on the oaks. Confirms my ancient memories.
Glenn
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 16, 2015 - 09:32am PT
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Jim, nice pic of that OW
Looks like it is one of the cracks on this wall, yes?
I don't think it has been climbed to the top yet. The east face route is well to thje left - this is more the NE face, or the east face of the Ibex- Springbok-LesCornes col
Why did you guys bail? Wetness? I can see the overlap seeping in your pic
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 16, 2015 - 09:41am PT
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Speaking of Garry Oak,
http://www.mqup.ca/ancient-pathways--ancestral-knowledge-products-9780773543805.php
I recently got given Nancy Turner's two-volume ethnobotanical magnum opus and read it cover to cover (to cover to cover) in about a week. Great book. Very interesting. (I also love that the guy on the cover is rocking a mac jacket as he gathers)
There is incontrovertible evidence that the local First Nations practiced both cultivation and transplantation of usable plant species, such as bringing hazelnuts from their southern range around the Lower Mainland, to the Kitimat - Terrace corridor, where they now have a geographically isolated second range.
The Garry Oaks on Sumas Mountain and across the river from Yale are documented to have been part of this pre-contact transplantation program.
I wouldn't be surprised if the oaks around the Chief are the legacy of a similar transplantation program by the Squamish Nation. Squamish seems like it's a ways beyond the usual Garry Oak range of southern Van Isle and the Gulf Islands.
Some, or much, of the growth of trees in subalpine areas like Hollyburn Meadows is also due to our suppression of forest fires, rather than to changing climates. These areas were burned regularly pre-contact as part of a management program to maximize berry productivity.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Mar 16, 2015 - 09:53am PT
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to make it easy:
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 16, 2015 - 10:19am PT
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Yeah. Looks more like a squeeze than an OW though!
Note to self: lug tubes and #6 next time going up there?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 16, 2015 - 10:47am PT
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I recently got given Nancy Turner's two-volume ethnobotanical magnum opus and read it cover to cover (to cover to cover) in about a week. Great book. Very interesting. (I also love that the guy on the cover is rocking a mac jacket as he gathers)
Yes, this is her magnum opus. I'm just about finished the first volume. It's very interesting and sums up so much material. I agree that the Garry oaks at Squamish might well be transplanted. It doesn't seem that they are doing as well as the ones on Sumas Mountain.
There are also a few in Pacific Spirit Park (Vancouver) but those might be escapes from old gardens.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2015 - 01:06pm PT
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Damn! You guys needed gardening tools up there?? Sure does look clean!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 16, 2015 - 01:31pm PT
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Gardening tools? Maybe plant some oak trees in those wide cracks.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2015 - 03:26pm PT
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Yes Glenn.. We know your generation had no need for clean cracks.. :)
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 16, 2015 - 04:13pm PT
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Fixed proaks from little acorns grow?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2015 - 04:25pm PT
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Grow your own pro! Lol
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 16, 2015 - 04:52pm PT
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Grow your own pro! Lol
Hillarious!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 16, 2015 - 07:41pm PT
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Nice photo.
In the bottom photo, looks like the Devil's Tongue just right of centre, with the Devil's Toothpick between the Tongue and the deep notch.
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Mar 16, 2015 - 10:17pm PT
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Wandering through a bookstore today, I happened upon a mint copy of Gordie Smaill's 1975 Chief Guide, this thing is classic history! Lots of funny stuff in here, plus some classic info on great aid lines of the past.
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Mar 17, 2015 - 12:08am PT
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Picked up some other BC mountaineering anthology stuff, snagged a few other goodies there over the years. I really dig the coastal climbing history, especially from the 70s. I've always been interested in the early wall climbing scene around Squamish with the likes of Hatten, Burton, Weinstein, Piro, Sutton, Culbert etc. Hard to find info about some of the aid climbs from that era. I;m sure there are still some places on the wall that few have ever been. Picking up this guide was just part of the puzzle.
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Mar 17, 2015 - 05:48am PT
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I love this thread. You guys give me hours worth of google earthing to do!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 17, 2015 - 06:42am PT
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That photo of the NE face of Mt Redoubt brings back some great memories. Climbed it with Dick Mitten and Corina Acheson in 1977 or so. First time I ever used crampons.
Amazing place.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Mar 17, 2015 - 08:52am PT
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Haha
M. Northwest Passage
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 17, 2015 - 08:56am PT
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Yes and Peak 8200 on the left. Culbert's guidbook shows a great looking buttress on the other side of 8200. dropping into McNaught Valley, over the ridge.
It's actually McNaught Peak these days as per Beckey; Harold Redekop & John Manuel climbed the buttress you mention in '83,
"Loose class 4-5 with poor belays", sure to see a lineup this summer!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 17, 2015 - 08:59am PT
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Here's a shot of Redoubt I took last week from Rideout
Not much snow on the glacier
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2015 - 09:01am PT
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
Mar 17, 2015 - 06:42am PT
That photo of the NE face of Mt Redoubt brings back some great memories. Climbed it with Dick Mitten and Corina Acheson in 1977 or so. First time I ever used crampons.
Amazing place.
More please! ;)
Sick pic Dru!!!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 17, 2015 - 12:36pm PT
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Here's a pic of Jer Frimer recovering his dropped ice axe from an off-route snowpatch 50 m down the east face of Redoubt, just after you transition from the glacier to the upper couloir.
It's always better not to drop your axe while alpine climbing, and this was even before clip leashes, meaning less of an excuse. But I'm sure it's a mistake a lot of people make. If you do, it's good to have it stop within fetching distance instead of vanishing into a slot forevermore.
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Mar 23, 2015 - 08:46pm PT
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I have to repost this from the Squamish forum, so people appreciate what a hard ass Gordie was, and still is, now still climbing 5.11 at Skaha in his late 60's/ early 70's?
"Chic Scott's book Pushing the Limits: The Story of Canadian Mountaineering.
In the Section The Squamish Hard Core p245 about the new group of climbers at the end of the '60s.
Although this was still the era of big aid routes, it was a free climb on the Apron by Smaill and Bennet in 1970 that went a long way toward establishing their reputations. The route was the Grim Reaper, Smaill described how "Exploding crystal tips and pie crust flakes on l-o-n-g shakey lead outs characterize this royal jelly of slab freaks."
For years this test piece went unrepeated. Hugh Burton wrote, "Several parties have attempted it, but no one has yet being able to put together the phenomenally thin unprotected moves on the third pitch. There seems to be some question as to how Gordie actually accomplished this section. The crux, however, is supposedly on the fourth pitch!"
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2015 - 09:52pm PT
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Has anyone been on the reaper?? Rumor was it has unfortunately been bolted over in places. Does anyone have a topo from the smail guide? Does it include bolt markings?
Anders offers us this:
Grim Reaper II, 5.10b
N. Bennett and G. Smaill, 1969.
Down and left of Snake's beginning is a steep forested area. From it's top, climb a pitch on flakes and slabs; a crack then leads up and right to an isolated tree above an overhang. Continue up the crack to it's end, drop down, and traverse left to a bush in a corner in the center of the face. The difficult section before the belay has precipitated several wild pendulums. A long difficult and poorly protected pitch follows, ascending directly up the slab above the bush belay to a ledge. The final lead climbs up from the right end of this ledge.
Equipment: a dozen nuts to 2" and a few pins.
A Climber's Guide to the Squamish Chief. Anders Ourum
Edit: nice post Jim. Tell us a story about Ed if you please.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Mar 24, 2015 - 07:41am PT
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The Grim Reaper is still out there but finding it again would be hard. The person who put bolts near it may be the best source since he talked to Neil and Gord before undertaking his project, in an attempt to not compromise the Reaper too much.
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kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
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Look what I found today[photoid=405041]
So cool
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kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
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Oh and I found this too
Even more cool
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kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
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So funny that I found these books today
and posted these pics one post after some Grim reaper posts!
Sure wish I would have climbed it back when I was brave
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kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
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You bet jim
I'll get on it soon
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kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
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Copy that Glenn,
I'll keep it to myself, do you recall how many were in circulation?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Hi Kaiser, Jim, I think it is stated in my new Intro - 300 copies. Don't know how many survive today. I haven't seen one for sale for 15 years.
Glenn
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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This is the photo which Tim used for his sketch on the cover of Glenn's guide. It shows Tim leaving the Dance Platform, and heading for the Roman Chimneys, on the FA of the U Wall. Yos has the 'red' book, while we have the 'green' book. Rare indeed.
Remember that the G Wall and the U Wall both end at the top of the Roman Chimneys, not at the Dance Platform.
"If you bale at Dance,
Then you fail at Dance!"
:) :) H.
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kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
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Wow! Only 300 copies, I feel super fortunate to have found this one.
It's in absolute mint condition, I'd say 9.5 out of 10.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Almost all of the copies I saw had a crease across the middle. We used to fold it in half, and stick it in our back pockets.
Glenn. That was a most unusual size for a guidebook, or any kind of a book. What was behind your decision to print it in this format?
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kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
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Tami
I found it at a used book sale in squamish.
The reaper was on my hit list back in the day until I took a monster whipper on white lightning, I tried to link the 2 pitches like the guidebook said to do, the rope drag was horrendous and eventually pulled me off. It felt like I was running backwards for days.
The reaper was off the list after that.
Oh and I would love to hear the "elimination of bellygood" story first hand if possible.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Hamie, yes that was an unusual (bizare? stupid?) format for a guidebook. It was done because it was cheap: photo-reduction of the original typed on regular letter-size paper. The next guides (Smaill, Ourom) had a much more practical format.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2015 - 10:44pm PT
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Love those classic Guidebooks! Thanks for that Kaiser!
Sweet photo Hamie! Hoping to get up there soon.
On Sunday I had the pleasure of meeting Murcy, and showing him around the bluffs with Mighty Hiker and Mh2. I posted these pics elsewhere but i think they have a place here too.
Mighty Hiker and mh2 scoping out Penny Lane
Murcy performing his pre-climb ritual.
Mighty Hiker getting chalked up.
A casual scene at Penny Lane
Mighty Hiking Penny Lane 5.9
His first Little Smoke Bluffs route and probably the most popular 5.9 in the bluffs. Still sending many years later.
mh2 the stick man and Murcy
Mighty Hiker, mh2 and Murcy "scrambling" up to Neat and Cool
Mh enjoying an apple while mh2 shoes up.
One of the local monkey's working on Bruce Lee Vs the Kiss Army 13 a r
Murcy on Flying Circus 10a and a visiting climber on a little led route, Lieback Flake 5.9
Murcy sizing up the Smoke Bluff Wall
mh2 starting up Mosquito 5.9
mh2 getting it done.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Hi everyone, it's been a while.
Normally during the winter, I'm all stoked on snowboarding and filming and editing and sh#t, but this winter has been anything but normal. I've been itching to mess around with some video stuff, as well as climb some rocks, so I got the chance to do that today.
https://vimeo.com/124378775
Enjoy!
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Couple local monkeys going for the evening ascent of Wild Turkey!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2015 - 10:33pm PT
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Nice Vid Nate!
Who were the turkeys? ;)
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Wow... now I wanna go climb granite boulders.
Nice vid. Thanks for sharing.
"Wild Turkey?..... cool.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Thanks guys :) It made for a long day, cause I had to climb everything multiple times in order to get a shot I was happy with. It's hard being your own director, DoP, cameraman, and stuntman.
It was Marc and Brownie on the heinous flare. I just happened to spot them on my way out of town, so pulled in to heckle and watch. I'm not sure how they ended up doing, as it was getting pretty dark just as the leader was getting into the business.
Here's a shot I took yesterday at low tide of the lower Malamute. Look closely to see Kyle on Krescent Krack.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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That rare bookseller was back at the adventure centre today with his boxes of goodies. There was one (pricey) copy of Anders' guide there, as well as three copies of Dick Culbert's 1974 Alpine Guide to Southwestern BC which had a decent section on the Chief. None of the treasures that I've been looking for. You're very lucky to have found that copy of Glenn's guide. It's the only other one missing from my collection :) (Besides Jim Baldwin's hand typed first collection of routes which almost no one has.)
Thanks for all those great shots of climbing in the Bluffs!
K
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Scrubber, do you have Jim Campbell's first guide, Rock Climbs of the Little Smoke Bluffs? It is very scarce, too.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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I stand corrected. I'm missing that one too. Can someone tease me with a cover-shot of it?
K
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Tami, that first book of yours is the only one missing from my "Tami Shrine" I've got every other one.
One day, one day....
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Apr 10, 2015 - 08:56am PT
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Scrubber
There is only one copy of Jim Baldwin's hand-written guide. There are several copies of the typed version.
EDIT:
Glenn
That's the first I have heard of a Smoke Bluffs guide. Interesting. Jim Campbell is now living in Castlegar, after a long spell in Creston.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2015 - 03:37pm PT
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Back in Squam
It's a bit smokey today..
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 17, 2015 - 04:02pm PT
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Kris, Hamie,
Here's Jim Campbell's Smoke Bluffs guide from 1984. There was only 1 printing, then he went on to produce his full guide.
and the title page....
Glenn
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 17, 2015 - 05:03pm PT
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Jim, it was a compact dark blue cloth guide from 1965. Dick Culbert was the author, but I had a rather large hand in it.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 17, 2015 - 05:30pm PT
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Yes, still useful, and an archive of lots of early ascents that never got written up.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2015 - 07:59pm PT
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I quite enjoyed looking at that book when Glenn brought me the copy Perry bought in my auction. Lots of amazing climbs and excellent production value.
I spent the afternoon at Burgers. I was lucky enough to hook up with Kyle and Nina. The smoke wafted our way occasionally but mostly the air was quite clean.
Kyle on Libya Sucks 5.9
I'm happy to report that my ankle seemed to be fine with jamming.
After we did the one next to it, Nookie Monster and it seemed pretty hard for 10a.
Hopefully they get this fire out soon..
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 17, 2015 - 10:12pm PT
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Kyle on Libya Sucks 5.9
Anything for a strong 5.5 climber??
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alannamal
climber
B.C.
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Apr 17, 2015 - 10:31pm PT
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Putting approach shoes to the test!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Apr 17, 2015 - 10:57pm PT
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Glenn
Thanks for the pic of Jim Campbell's guide. Too cool.
Dick's blue 1965 guide and the brown 1969 updated version are a great example of marketing today. Both versions came with a set of maps. [I think they are the same, but I am too lazy to go check.] If a seller has the maps, then he/she makes a big deal of "complete with rare maps" etc. If they do not have the maps they say "no matter, they are all out of date anyhow!" Accentuate the positive, eliminate the negative.
Questions: In a recent issue of Gripped maggie there was an article on The Lynn Valley, an area which I was not aware of before. The area does not look very inspiring to me....... Has anyone climbed there? Opinions? The rock looks rather uninviting, as it appears to be totaaaally covered in moss, lichen etc. However the text claims that it is actually "green granite". Glenn, is there such a beast? What do people think of this area? It is quite close to Van.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2015 - 11:01pm PT
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Glenn I am sure we could find you something fun!
Alannamal Yeah he wanted to "break them in"....
Hamie- Lynn canyon looks fun. I know Nathan's climbed there and i'm pretty sure Andy has. Perhaps they can fill us in a bit.
Best thing about this solo, was it freed me up to shoot photos.. Lol
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Apr 19, 2015 - 11:47am PT
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North walls just had a huge rock fall....got a wee video I'll throw up later.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2015 - 01:00pm PT
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Ya! Kyle says it was the last pitch of the calling. He says parallel passages took a hit. Most of that stuff would be pretty wet, so unless someone was cleaning around there..
I think there are some popular boulders around that area though. Hopefully no pad people were in the line of fire.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2015 - 01:45pm PT
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For reference.
Toby Foord Kelsey photo
From Marc Bourdon's Squamish select
The roof to the right of the last pitch of the calling is the offender. Any one familiar with "Chilkoot pass"??
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AerialElf
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Apr 19, 2015 - 02:51pm PT
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Here is a photo I took from my balcony in downtown Squamish. I didn't see the rock falling, but heard it and it sounded like an explosion and then saw the dust afterward (was down near the brew pub.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2015 - 03:09pm PT
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2nd hand info indicates, sar confirms there were no boulderer's in the slide path. They still have yet to confirm if there was any parties on the affected routes or angel's crest trail.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 19, 2015 - 05:39pm PT
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If that had happened on a summer weekend...
Glad to hear nobody was in the line of fire.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 19, 2015 - 06:34pm PT
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We get so used to thinking about the Chief as a safe and stable chunk of rock, and forget that the boulders, those monstrous huge blocks at the base, didn't just grow there.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2015 - 06:37pm PT
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I bet there is a new problem or two down there now...
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kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
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Apr 19, 2015 - 07:42pm PT
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Anders you are a treasure trove of information, thanks.
Does anyone have an idea of when the sheriffs badge scar saw the light of day?
That must have been unbelievable to witness.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 19, 2015 - 07:57pm PT
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2nd hand info indicates, sar confirms there were no boulderer's in the slide path. They still have yet to confirm if there was any parties on the affected routes or angel's crest trail.
I so hope this is true. ... and what ghost said.
For me it was such a disillusionment when granite in Yosemite had catastrophic failures (having started pretty much in caving-> (Yosemite/Indian Rock-/Pinnacles/Yosemite)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2015 - 09:04pm PT
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Rockfall happens.. It's just so rare..
Sandra and i made it down to Squamish this evening..
The damage was quite apparent...
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Apr 19, 2015 - 09:12pm PT
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Heard the noise and turned just in time to see the whole mess go cascading down the wall from the safety of the front yard.
Fairly calamitous but still way smaller than the one I watched come of El Cap from Middle.
Now that was a ripper!
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MisterE
Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
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Apr 19, 2015 - 09:29pm PT
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If that had happened on a summer weekend...
Glad to hear nobody was in the line of fire.
Exactly what I was thinking. I saw some blue in the sky of the after pictures, and thought "Uh-oh".
That is a huge chunk of rock.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2015 - 10:16pm PT
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Apparently there was a party at p6 on Angel's??? Anders??
Chris Small reports this on facebook: "I had a friend who was bouldering in the forest below when it happened. She crouched behind a boulder and watched and heard the rock shrapnel whiz all around her. She was fairly ashen faced describing it."
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 20, 2015 - 05:56am PT
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Woe that is gonzo!!
Chris Small reports this on facebook: "I had a friend who was bouldering in the forest below when it happened. She crouched behind a boulder and watched and heard the rock shrapnel whiz all around her. She was fairly ashen faced describing it."
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Apr 20, 2015 - 07:26am PT
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One news source said that there were at least two parties on Angel's Crest. The lowest party actually got bombarded with debris, but escaped any serious harm and completed the route.
Emergency services' biggest concern was that there may have been parties at the base of Angel's Crest or in the forest approaching the route. By the looks of the destruction at the base, it would have been extremely unlikely to escape harm at any of the three starts to the route. It was fortunate that the release took place close to noon and not earlier when parties are often stacked at the base.
We watched the whole thing from the bluffs and it was terrifying. Everyone's nerves were quite jittery for a while afterwards.
I initially thought that the top pitch of The Calling / Northern Lights had fallen off, but it looks as if the rockfall was just to the right of that area. The second to last pitch was pummeled however. Most of the Chilcoot Pass variation finish to The Calling is completely gone, as is the walk-off ledge from the top of both routes!
K
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gstock
climber
Yosemite Valley
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Apr 20, 2015 - 07:40am PT
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Chris Small reports this on facebook: "I had a friend who was bouldering in the forest below when it happened. She crouched behind a boulder and watched and heard the rock shrapnel whiz all around her. She was fairly ashen faced describing it."
That is exactly the right thing to do, by the way. Many people in Yosemite have survived rockfalls even close to the impact area by sheltering behind large boulders. Only in the rarest cases - basically on flat ground at the edge of the talus slope - would you have any hope of outrunning the oncoming debris.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Apr 20, 2015 - 07:53am PT
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Scary. Glad to hear that it seems like everyone is alright.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Apr 20, 2015 - 08:20am PT
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damn rock fall!
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Apr 20, 2015 - 08:40am PT
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I heard, and came straight here.
Was out re-habbing a climbers trail that was wiped out by falling rock!
Amazing no-one hurt.
Creeps me out man.
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Apr 20, 2015 - 08:45am PT
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Ho Man that's a lotta rock!
Glad to see no reports of injury. Hope it stays this way.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 20, 2015 - 08:58am PT
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I was climbing in the Bluffs at Tunnel Rock. We heard two rock falls before the big one. The first one, around 11:20 we thought might be new routers trundling, and we talked about what a dumbass move it was to trundle on a sunny weekend. The second one came around 11:40 and was the same size of sound as the first and we looked at each other and wondered if it really was trundling or not. Then the big one dropped and we knew it wasn't trundling.
We hiked up to the top of the Bluffs and Barley's obscure Nighthawk Moss crag (great routes there btw, Robin showed up while we were climbing, and claimed we were doing second ascents) and got a good view of the fresh scar.
In addition to the big dirty scar at the top of Chilkoot Passage that's claimed most of the attention, there is also a second, paler scar just down and to the right, in the vicinity of the second-last pitch of Yukon Gold and The Temptation of St Anthony and in the vicinity of the original Zodiac Wall. Anyway you can see fresh new rock scars on the slab below the arching corner that these routes take.
I believe one of the earlier rockfalls was the one that made this scar, and that this may have removed some of the support for the block that made the larger scar.
EDIT: got a better view in a pic from another angle of the Yukon Gold area. The WPoS pillar is still there, but the 11a pitch above (the route's last pitch) looks to have substantially altered.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 20, 2015 - 11:28am PT
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Better annotated photo, thanks to Mike for the before and after!
Note lowest scar: green outline, brand new dihedral!
Then probably the orange stuff failed in sequence, and this removed enough material for the red block to go as a single mass.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2015 - 12:05pm PT
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Drew you stole my thunder! ;)
Here's the original before and after.
After, little further out
Before from the bluffs
Original after
Original before
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Apr 20, 2015 - 12:20pm PT
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It looks like that massive block underneath it is just waiting for a reason to go as well.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2015 - 12:31pm PT
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From way higher up, massive block realized and rotated out from the face. I could see debris at the toe of the block ravelling off, sensing something big was about to happen. The sound was incredible. Anybody who has climbed Angel's Crest knows that the sound echos off across the North Gully and the North Walls. At first I saw the base of the block moving and dust clouds forming. I've watched more than my share of rock fall and landslide videos through school and work and for fun, but this was a first experience for me.
It was hard to judge how close it was to me. The view of the mountains was momentarily blocked by the free-falling granite. There was no rotation, just one monster chunk of granite aimed straight down. I looked up and Mark, jaw-dropped and speechless. Once the block hit the forest below, a huge plume of rock dust engulfed the area below. The volume of rock is estimated at 1000-5000 cubic metres. I couldn't see the parties below at this point but hoped that they were ok. Richard So
http://richso.blogspot.ca/2015/04/angels-crest-and-zodiac-wall-rockfall.html
edit
ya Nathan. could be.. the boot looks sketchy too though and it's still there...
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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Apr 20, 2015 - 01:02pm PT
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I'm really glad this pitch was far enough to the left. Probably the best dihedral pitch on the planet.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2015 - 01:07pm PT
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The base of your pic is the impact zone.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2015 - 01:18pm PT
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I think all that brown stuff is evidence that water and dirt was getting behind there for awhile. If you look at Dru's orange and green outlines, the rock fractures there are clean. So I think that thing was probably just sitting there being held by the flakes and pillar below it.
The upper right corner of the block fracture looks fairly clean too so, that was probably holding it as well.
Gstock? :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2015 - 01:36pm PT
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Supercrop of the scar
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2015 - 01:55pm PT
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Before supercrop
Notice all the dirt on the slope below? and in the groove above it. This thing's been lurking for awhile I bet.
It would appear that the block slid over/impacted that slab. If that lower chunk was about to go, one would think that it would have gone then??
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 20, 2015 - 02:23pm PT
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Hard to blame this one on rainfall and pore pressure along the fault since we're in the middle of sunny and dry conditions.
Given the dirt behind the main scar, I think root wedging from the trees on the ledge might be to blame. We're in the middle of spring and the trees are in the middle of their annual growth spurt, putting on mass in their roots too.
Of course, the response time to glacial unloading can be tens of thousands of years, so in our time scale, things can fall off for no immediate cause. They are responding to an event (deglaciation) thousands of years ago.
Hydraulic conductivity varies along joints too. But it's hard to state with a straight face that the pore pressure varies enough that this thing popped off now in response to record rainfall months ago.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2015 - 02:28pm PT
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Maybe a combination of factors Drew? Perhaps the roots wedged it out enough to fracture the support structure below?
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gstock
climber
Yosemite Valley
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Apr 20, 2015 - 03:45pm PT
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You guys are up against the problem we often deal with in Yosemite in terms of rockfall triggering, namely that several possible environmental triggers are present (water, root wedging, etc.) but there is no "smoking gun". Plenty of Yosemite rockfalls occur on bluebird days when you just wouldn't expect it.
The fresh scar in Mike's photos clearly shows weathering and staining indicative of probably decades of seepage, plus some residual soil. This suggests that the block was partially detached for quite awhile.
However, I'm most intrigued by the reports of precusor rockfalls that occurred in the cleaner rock beneath the big block; if that was indeed the case, the partial detachment and weathering of the big block may have been mostly irrelevant, as the block was undermined by smaller rockfalls that fell for some other reason.
Speculation from afar...
In case you get really interested in this stuff, the Yosemite rockfall database and a paper we wrote on the progressive Rhombus Wall rockfalls in 2009-2010 are available here: http://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/nature/rockfall.htm
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2015 - 03:52pm PT
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Greg there are reports of new routers hearing small gravel sized rocks falling last week. They thought someone was throwing rocks from the top!
Perhaps the roots made enough space for the medium behind the block to escape?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 20, 2015 - 04:00pm PT
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Causes of rockfall are of professional interest to me.
In this case there definitely were two separate, smaller, audible rockfalls in the half hour before the big one.
It's also true that Paul M reported small rocks falling while new routing in the area over the last week.
This does point to progressive loss of support for the big block that ultimately fell, and it also suggests that frequent, small rockfalls can serve as a useful indicator for a future larger rockfall, which is an easy idea to convey to non-geoscientists.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2015 - 04:39pm PT
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I've never really heard rockfall while climbing on the Chief, so i would say it is definitely abnormal to hear it. If i heard stuff falling down like Richard did that morning i'd think twice about climbing there that day..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2015 - 08:58pm PT
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Nice story Jim. I seem to remember having some shrapnel fall on us when we were at Exasperator too.. Maybe i'm just blocking out all the close calls? :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2015 - 09:08pm PT
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A friend sent me these images from the toe of the slide today.
It looks like it's a warzone up there...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2015 - 01:00pm PT
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Bump
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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Apr 22, 2015 - 01:19pm PT
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Nice images, Big Mike! Thanks! I'm curios if any of Alaska Highway got smashed. That MUST have been affected.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 24, 2015 - 01:45pm PT
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FWIW last major rockfall I am aware of in this area came from up and left of the current scar, more or less directly above Gone Surfing, in January 1999: see p.281 of the 2001 McLane guide.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Apr 25, 2015 - 01:23am PT
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On the subject of Alaska Highway, looks like it will dry pretty quickly now there's no tree cover around it.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 26, 2015 - 05:43pm PT
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Yesterday, I had a view (thru the telescope, near to the Brew Pub) of the detached pillar on Blazing Saddles. It almost looks as if it's more tipped out now.
Every time I've climbed Blazing Saddles, I've thought about the permanence of that thing.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 26, 2015 - 08:27pm PT
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Yikes! Doesn't look like there is much holding that up. Stem very gently...
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Apr 28, 2015 - 03:47pm PT
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Scanning some old slides from a Squamish trip. Anyone know what these routes are?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2015 - 04:26pm PT
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Steve- the second one is one of the slab routes to the left of of Jacob's othe ladder at the Malemute i think. Not sure about the first..
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Apr 28, 2015 - 04:35pm PT
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Is the first maybe Magic Carpet Ride? On the way to Skywalker..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2015 - 04:48pm PT
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Mcr doesn't have dykes like that does it?
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Apr 28, 2015 - 05:07pm PT
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Ya you're right.. no seams. Maybe somewhere around Sunblessed.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Apr 28, 2015 - 07:05pm PT
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Some more pics...from 2002 or so...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 29, 2015 - 11:47am PT
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Last pic is High Plains Drifter
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 29, 2015 - 11:50am PT
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The other unidentified one with the clean streak and then the right-trending dike is Lost Horizon at Seal Cove
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Here are some more pics of the rockfall area under the North walls. Took a hike up there a few days ago with a friend of mine to poke around, check the condition of the routes in the area, and be awed by the forces of nature.
Half way up the Angel's Crest / North Gully trail, there starts to be a few rogue missiles that made it a long ways into the forest.
Lots of blowdown and carnage at the edges of the impact and air-blast area.
Fewer and fewer stumps as you get higher. Looks like photos of heavily shelled areas in WW2.
Into the meat of the main impact area. Pretty much nothing of the forest remains.
Standing in a crater, looking up Angel's Crest and the North Gully from a point of view not available a week and a half ago.Very cool to see the steep wall at the top of the gully in profile.
The biggest intact nugget that we could find. Around 4x4x3m=approx 50 cubic metres = approx 135 metric tons! That would be a good part of the shaking we felt in Valleycliff!
Looking downhill from the top of the big chunk.
The start of Alaska Highway looks relatively untouched with the exception of the stepped area where you pull up on the hand line. The approach ledges over to Parallel Passages was blasted, although the routes over there seem to have been just left of the carnage.
Looking Northeast from the base of Angel's Crest. The tree-climb start took a bit of a hit. Maybe half of the branches that you would have pulled on are damaged or missing, but it's still doable. The face-climbing start that Barley put up about ten years ago looks unscathed, except that it's covered in dirt from the dust cloud that came down.
Just a bit lower down, beside the original start to AC. Lots of trees blown outwards by the air blast, but not too much shrapnel.
Lots of obstacles where the regular trail pops out around the toe of the buttress.
Trail markers in this area are somewhat obsolete now... The tree still standing is two feet in diameter at it's base, but is sheared off cleanly 15 feet up.
Just a friendly little reminder from Mother Nature that geological time is now! ;)
Kris
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2015 - 10:38am PT
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Wow Kris! It's a warzone up there hey? Thanks for the pics. I take it the closure has been resinded?
Steve- who is your "old friend" in the picture? He looks very familiar.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2015 - 10:48am PT
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we heard there was a large rock fall at Glacier Point. Being sensible we decided to go look and set off across the valley in the dark. As we hiked towards the Apron through the woods we started seeing fresh rock here and there, and you could here sounds of gravel and small rock falling in the distance. Then we heard a loud bang, followed by an increasing rumble. I remember looking at Vince and seeing he eyes widen in fear, which is something I had never seen in his eyes before. We both turned and ran, and as we ran our asses off the noise behind us got louder and louder. Then something I heard made my blood run cold and I will never forget it, I could hear rocks hitting the trees ABOVE our heads. I am not gonna lie I almost peed myself. We made it out without a scratch, no idea how. We went back there a few days latter and the area was littered with head sized rocks.
Some interesting paralells in this tale.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2015 - 12:15pm PT
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Ok maybe warzone is extreme. But it looks pretty devastated up there. The recent slide at Meager also had debris going upslope. Crazy forces.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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hey, thanks Oplopanax!
High Plains Drifter is viewed from Angel's Crest. Looks like a great climb!
And Big Mike, that pic would be Heavy Duty. He seemed to be a fixture in Squamish for a while. Is he still around?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2015 - 03:12pm PT
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Steve- He certainly is! I'm used to seeing him with blue and pink hair however! :)
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Glad that I climbed Angel's Crest LAST year.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2015 - 09:12pm PT
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Lol Wayne. I'm hoping it means less traffic for my triumphant return.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Of course to keep the numbers down, it should be known that venturing into the Angel's Crest Death Zone is a decidedly risky venture...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2015 - 09:28pm PT
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Exactly Todd.
Stay away people! Rockfall has killed.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Agreed Tami, the war-zone reference was inappropriate. Simply that the remainder of the forest looked like images from the war-ravaged european countryside that some of our parents and grandparents were witness to.
It reminded me of images like this, and stories from my grandfather who is still alive, but has great difficulty speaking about the atrocities he witnessed.
K
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mike,
Trail closure signs from BC parks are still in place. Not sure what the long-term plan is. Parks probably doesn't have the funds to mount a scaling and stabilization project on their own. Even if they did, there are probably a dozen other areas on the chief with rockfall just as imminent. It's just nature taking it's course.
While they say the trail is closed, all of the adjacent trails, which link up along the base are unsigned. They don't have the resources to patrol that sort of thing. Probably just a CYA, so in the event someone went up there and got beaned, they can say they did their due diligence in informing the public about the hazard.
Kris
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Of course to keep the numbers down, it should be known that venturing into the Angel's Crest Death Zone is a decidedly risky venture...
Borderline will become the mandatory, rather than an optional, start to Angels Crest.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2015 - 12:23pm PT
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Hey Jim! Trees? What Trees? ;)
Thanks Kris! I thought that might be the case.
I can't wait to be strong enough to get up Angel's with a Borderline start Dave!
only bummer is you miss the beauty that is Angel crack..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2015 - 06:11pm PT
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I ran into Robin Barley a couple of times on Sunday at the crag, and he related a few FA tales of some classic routes at Penny Lane.
Robin and Pete Shackleton were working on an area at Penny Lane. The crack they were cleaning, originally contained a 1" cedar, which they decided to leave in place so as to conceal their efforts from the prying eyes of Peter Croft and crew, who according to Robin was notorious for scoping out the action from the car park and stealing his routes.
Ye old Car Park
On the first ascent they climbed it from the lower crack with the tree, and due to their anti-surveillance efforts, gave it the moniker of "Clandestine Affair".
Kyle on Clandestine Affair, 5.9.
Having a tree in such a classic route however simply would not do, so Robin and Pete returned later with Robin's trusty Homelite chainsaw to finish manicuring the route.
After removing the offending tree, Robin set to work on his new project in the same area. He discovered a giant loose flake on the route and asked Pete if he would mind terribly, moving his chainsaw so
he could trundle it safely. Pete complied, moving the saw out of the way, some 40 feet off to the side.
Robin set to prying the flake off and when it popped, it hit the wall with such force that it ricocheted fourty feet out obliterated the Homelite saw.
Pete almost died of laughter and Robin was none too pleased. He paid 90 bucks to fix a saw he could have purchased for a 120$, and it never started the same again. Due to Robin's trundling prowess, the route was forever
known as, "Quarryman".
Kyle on Quarryman, 5.8
Thanks to Robin for these stories and giving me permission to share them with you guys!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2015 - 10:48pm PT
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How did i know that was coming.. Lol
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2015 - 11:49pm PT
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Jes' telling it like I heard it Tami! ;)
Maybe you can entice Peter to tell his side of the tale? ;)
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peter croft
climber
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Hey Mike
I sure don't remember stealing anything from Robin.
Why would I? He's the one who showed me the art of new routing in Squamish. I learned a lot from him.
There was that time he was driving us to the crags and got pulled over for speeding. Boy, he read that cop the riot act - which taught me that cops don't like being read the riot act. Big fat ticket!
Robin's a great guy but maybe him and Peter S. were imagining things.
I'm not suggesting they were being a bit paranoid...but maybe they were being a bit paranoid?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 09:49am PT
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Perhaps they were a bit paranoid Peter. Thanks for your reply, and another tale to boot! Bonus!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2015 - 01:11pm PT
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Another beautiful day at the bluffs and we have the pleasure of hanging with Rolf again.
Rolf Ryback and his avalanche poodle Holly.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2015 - 11:14pm PT
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HAHAHAHAHA!
Nice poem Tami! ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2015 - 09:19am PT
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Jim, i don't get it.. Lol am i missing something? Drywall joke? :)
We had a fun day yesterday. Sandra dropped me off at the bluffs to meet up with Rolf, and after checking if the resident dr b was in, we headed up to Penny Lane which was shining in the sun.
Rolf pointed out that he did indeed go left on Grumpy Old Men p1 and where the second pitch was just above the anchor he had placed.
He also pointed out that Teenage Girls don't Blow Gorbies starts on the left, not on the right as i was always led to believe. After some soul searching Rolf decided Penny Lane wouldn't do, since he had spent way too much time there and we strolled down to Neat and Cool.
A couple warm ups later found us on one of Ivan and Rolf's fa's, Raging Duck. He said he had an ascent of this line for every year since they put it up. They originally placed two bolts on rappel, and a couple years later of disuse, Rolf asked Ivan if he could add a couple more to popularize the routes. It was clean as a whistle, thanks to Hevy's recent efforts in the area. Also sporting new hardware which i'm assuming Hevy contributed also?
Rolf starting up Raging Duck 10b
What the hell kind of new fangled gear have you got here Mike?
Getting it done, with style.
Sandra got up it pretty quick, but it seemed as if to me, that Rolf had chosen the hardest 10b in the park just to vex me. Small crimps and shitty left foot high steps are definitely still a weakness for me.. Stupid SCI, Stupid ball of water ankle... Lol
After falling off repeatedly at the bottom, I got frustrated and Rolf said "I've never seen a 6'7 two year old before.." Lol
Eventually i got up it, with much rope holding and a little frustration...
After we did Pink Flamingo which both Rolf and Sandra crushed and I was once again challenged by my left foot issues. It went better than the duck however.. Lol
A quick warm down at Mosquito on sphincter quits saw Rolf dashing back to Vancouver.
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Joe Turley gave me the nickname Rough Lieback , a play on words of my name after seeing how bloodied I was after trying to jam Jim Campbell's route Laid Back instead of lay backing it.
Hi Jim , I am not really that skelatoral, I think Mike used some weird photo shopping, or maybe I just haven't looked in a mirror lately!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2015 - 08:31pm PT
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The harsh sun was unkind to you yesterday Rolf. The camera was a little over exposed it seems. That's funny the way memory works. Jim B told me it was Perry who coined that term!
Thanks for the clarification! Now I gotta go do laid back.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Joe Turley gave me the nickname Rough Lieback , a play on words of my name after seeing how bloodied I was after trying to jam Jim Campbell's route Laid Back instead of lay backing it.
Jim Campbell had no part in "Laid Back." That little gem was scrubbed and climbed by Steve Loomer and Keith Nannery. Photo below is Corina Acheson following me on the second ascent.
Edit to add: Of course, Rolf is old. And I'm even older. So it's quite possible we're both confused. And also, I... Hey! Nurse! I want my warm milk and cookies!
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Yep, It may have been Perry who gave me that moniker,Joe probably just repeated it.
Jim Campbell was an interesting character, I wonder if any one still has his hand drawn topo guide book to Squamish?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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But...
dirt that wants warm milk and cookies. From a nurse.
A nice mix of then and now on the thread.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2015 - 11:13am PT
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Sitting at the base of the buttress!!! WOOOOOOOHOOOO!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2015 - 09:28pm PT
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Vulch and I had an awesome day out yesterday.
11am found us on top of the Apron after literally running up Banana Peel and Boomstick, out of concern for my ankle, we pitched out the apron but 30 mins a pitch is not too shabby.
Top of the Apron scramble.
We didn't see a soul all morning but as we were chilling at the base of the buttress, another party rambled up to the base.
Vulch got started on the pitch and I sparked up a conversation with Aaron and his lovely wife.
Shortly after I mentioned my injury, Aaron goes, "wait are you on supertopo?"
"Yeah, I'm Big Mike..." Lol we have another lurker folks! ;)
Shortly after that, Vulch finished up the pitch, and I was off.
I linked the next two and took the next pitch to get Vulch to the base of the headwall. She had mentioned some anxiety over the 10c pitch that morning, but with the way we were climbing I was under the impression she was all good.
When she got to the base of the wide crack on the ledge below the headwall, I could hear her stressing about her pitch. We sorted the rack and she re-racked all the gear so it would be accessible with her butt against the wall.
Buttress headwall pano.
She got up to the first bulge crux and took a couple whips. She looked down at me and said "I can't do this today." I tried to convince her that she was fine and she could get through this mental block, but she wasn't having any of it.
I was just about to lower her when Aaron came up. She said "i'm just not feeling it today", to which he replied, "if you weren't feeling it, you wouldn't even take that fall. This spurred her on, and next time she pulled the move, no problem.
She got to within 15 of the top when she whipped again. She tried again, got another piece of gear in, and took another fall. This is when she started saying she couldn't do it again. I suggested another placement on her right, and she clipped it then made another effort.
There was two parties waiting for us by this point, and she was not happy being watched and holding people up. After another good whip, she told me she'd had enough. I tried to get her to aid through it, but when she stepped up in the sling, she whipped again, and this time she smoked her hip real good against the wall.
I could have aided it, but there was three parties waiting at this point and I was feeling guilty for causing this roadblock, so I asked Aaron if he would mind towing our rope up if we let them go first. He agreed, and I told Vulch to stick another cam in and equalize them so she could strip the gear for the next party, and I lowered her off.
The other party Matt, and his friend were quite patient with us too, so i offered to let them jump us in the cue as well.
Arron's lovely wife heading up and Vulch looking a little defeated.
Getting some gear in.
The Prow
Stemming off the bulge.
Bryn Carlyle Norman Plaque
Put yo back in it!
Echelon wall looming over Valleycliff with Atwell/Garibaldi on the horizon.
So close. Man this pitch feels long!!
Prow/Echelon wall pano
Get it done!!!!
Vulch stoked to be on top.
South Peak Pano
We arrived on top to a lovely surprise. Someone else's lunch which they apparently didn't want...
We cleaned up their refuse and the guy in the photo came up to me and asked if he could throw his apple core in my garbage bag. "Fvck no!" I said. "Pack it in, Pack it out!"
I was shocked he even asked....
Mexican food and beer seemed well in order after that.
Thanks to Aaron and his lovely wife for stripping our gear and leaving it at the anchor and Matt and friend for giving us a tow!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2015 - 11:08am PT
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Anyone have any beta about Bryn they would like to share?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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May 11, 2015 - 11:17am PT
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It's interesting to see how the rock on the last pitch of the Buttress has been scuffed to white by countless ascents. Here is a pic of Jim Baldwin, on the 2nd ascent, when the rock was a lot darker.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2015 - 11:34am PT
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Indeed Hamie. I was once told (I think by Andy?) that the oils from our fingers, kill the lichen which gives the granite it's typical grey color. You'll notice the heatwave cracks retain their original patina.
Thanks for the awesome pic!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2015 - 02:33pm PT
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Wow Tami. Sad article. She sounds like a brave soul indeed.
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TacomaDome
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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May 12, 2015 - 10:18am PT
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This is Aaron, I guess I lurk no longer...
Thanks for the photos Mike.
Here is a photo of my wife Laurence coming up the first 2 pitches of Rock On. We had a lot of fun on this route, and a great day overall. Can't wait to get back to Squamish, but hopefully for longer than a weekend.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2015 - 10:24am PT
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You're welcome Aaron! Thanks for your assistance, and my offer still stands. Shoot me a pm or post up here if you need a partner. (St pm's can be spotty sometimes. They don't always work..)
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TacomaDome
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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May 12, 2015 - 11:29am PT
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Sunday we climbed Chewbacca over on Shannon Falls Wall. We only did the first two pitches, but will be back to tackle the 3rd. This si an excellent climb, tight hands to a layback on the first pitch, fun chimney on the second, and ??? on the 3rd (looked like nice cracks).
Then we had the idea to run up skywalker, but there was a party at the base with shiny new gear about to start up so we didn't want to wait around, did a couple single pitches over by klahanie crack instead. Anyone know what that TR slab between klahanie and split decision goes at? Book says 11a, but I was able to get up it with ease, so no way that is 11a unless I magically became an 11 slab climber overnight.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2015 - 12:01pm PT
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Nice Aaron. That one looks fun, haven't got on it yet.
Not sure on the grade for "no bolts". I'll ask Harry next time i run into him.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2015 - 11:03am PT
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Congrats to Brett for her recent success in Tahoe!
Two weeks ago, Harrington sent Grand Illusion, the first 5.13c crack climb in North America (and maybe the world) and said, “I finally sent the Grand Illusion 5.13c today out at Sugarloaf.
“After climbing at Lovers Leap all afternoon Marc Andre-Leclerc and I hiked up to Sugarloaf for one last go at Grand Illusion for my last day in California and it went.”
Originally Grand Illusion was the third pitch of The Fracture and was climbed on aid, but in 1979, Tony Yaniro freed it. There is some dispute about what was the first 5.13 in Yosemite, but Grand Illusion is the agreed first 5.13+.
“It’s Harrinton’s first solid 5.13, after doing The Shadow 5.12d/5.13a in Squamish last September,” said Leclerc.
Beth Rodden made the first female ascent, onsight, in 2002 with the majority of the gear in place. Harringon placed all her gear on lead, aside from two fixed nuts in the roof. She clipped another two fixed nuts at the bottom on the 5.8 slab before the route really starts, so that doesn’t affect the difficulty.
http://gripped.com/news/brette-harrington-repeats-historical-yosemite-5-13-crack/
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 27, 2015 - 06:53am PT
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Two weeks since anyone's wanted to talk about climbing at Squamish? What's going on?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2015 - 10:42am PT
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Well Dave,
I've been kinda busy.. I'm back to work now and i took last weekend off to lie on the couch with my ankle up so i haven't been out for a bit.
Sandra and I did meet up with the Cormiers a couple weekends ago, we took the trucks for a little 4x4. Any guesses what area? What crag for bonus points.
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TacomaDome
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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May 27, 2015 - 11:24am PT
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Well Ghost, haven't posted because I was busy climbing! A good thing!
Last Wednesday night had us driving up I-5 for a 6 day trip up to Squamish. We crashed out and woke up Thursday to climb Birds of Prey (10b) on Slahany. For some reason I just wasn't feeling it all day, luckily my Wife is my rope gun!
Start of Birds of Prey
Nice views from Birds of Prey
Headed up the final Pitch of Birds of Prey
The next day we rapped down the Malamute for a link up of Old Style, Cider Crack, and Grub Street. What a great link up, highly recommended! Luckily I got my mojo back for this one.
Me on old style
The next couple of days we decided to take a "rest day" which had us hiking up to Garibaldi Lake to camp before hiking up to the Black Tusk the next day. This hike made my calves burn! Well at least it was a rest from climbing.
Beautiful Lake Garibaldi
The Black Tusk. We opted to not scramble up the choss. Why climb loose rock when clean granite is down in Squamish?
Coming down from the Black Tusk
After that we spent a rainy Monday walking around Whistler followed by a couple of pitches in the Smoke Bluffs, no pictures.
Yesterday we had one goal....needs no introduction.
So good!
Sad to be back in the office when I know the weather is wonderful in Squamish. Bummer.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2015 - 08:28am PT
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Thanks Tad! I'm trying! ;)
Hi Aaron! Looks like you guys had fun! I love birds. So much fun. I have never even hiked up to Garibaldi! Lol
Thanks for the pics. I'll match your shot of Exasperator and maybe find a few more? I have tons.. Lol
Kyle on Exasperator 10c
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2015 - 08:48am PT
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P1
Kyle works the curve
Almost at the first belay before the block was trundled.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 28, 2015 - 08:52am PT
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Very inspiring
Dreaded off fingers ? Or sweet locks?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2015 - 09:16am PT
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Sweet locks. Forged by pins. Very nice.
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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May 28, 2015 - 11:30am PT
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I remember thinking p1 of exas was harder than p2. Gnome the upper sectoin is sinker thin fingers, and the lower is big splitter fingers.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2015 - 01:55pm PT
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Tami- ya it's been so warm this year!
The bottom is locker fingers for me, and the top is heinous tips. With slippery feet.
The most badass way to climb exasperator is to link it, and skip the anchor for pro!
He's feeling it!
Almost to the hands
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TacomaDome
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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May 28, 2015 - 04:08pm PT
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Stop it Mike! You are making me want to get on that thing again!
I only did the first pitch, my wife took the second. Took a little fall with gear just below my waist after a foot slipped, so I am looking for the redpoint. I'm pretty sure I can get the second pitch too. Nice thing about that climb is clean falls and bomber gear.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2015 - 06:47pm PT
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Super clean falls on wicked gear for sure!
It's callin' you bro!
LINK IT! ;)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 28, 2015 - 08:44pm PT
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All those photos of Exasperator remind me of a time, about twenty years ago, when Al Steck was up for a visit. I spent three or four days putting him on what I thought were the Squamish climbs he'd enjoy most. One of which was Exasperator.
There are a bunch of stories from that day, which, if I survive this month's press deadline, I'll come back and tell, but for tonight, just this one thing...
When we were back on the ground, Allen looked up at what we had just climbed, and said: "I think that's the best finger crack I've ever climbed."
Once we got into the wine that night he changed his mind, and said it was actually only the second-best, but given that he had climbed all over the world for fifty years, much of that time at the cutting edge, I reckon it's safe to say Exasperator is an okay climb.
Now I have to add that Allen never climbed at the Needles, where Exasperator would be something you got on only if you didn't know that everything else was better, but still...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2015 - 09:10pm PT
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That! Is why i post here!
Thanks Dave!
Probably not your favorite picture i know. But it's my best closeup and the only one i have of you with Tami.
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Ryan L
climber
PORT MOODY
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May 28, 2015 - 09:52pm PT
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Big Mike for the 4x4 post, it looks like Chuck Chuck Creek at the Lounge Wall up the Squamish Valley :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2015 - 10:30pm PT
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Poor old Gunstone
Lol. Someone around here might know the story behind that..
Ryan L! You are correct sir!
Welcome to supertopo.
You
Are
Going
To
Die.
(Taco greeting)
Do you have a particular favourite Squamish climb I might have an image of?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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May 29, 2015 - 01:29pm PT
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Tami
Judging by the expression on David's face, it might be quite a while before he heads north again! What did you do?????
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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May 29, 2015 - 01:45pm PT
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David looks more cheery in this photo (same event). Mighty Hiker looks a bit glum. Must have been something Tami said....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2015 - 05:07pm PT
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Yes it was a grand time. I think the expression on Dave and Tami's faces had something to do with some tall guy shoving a camera in their face.. Lol
Grand luncheon with Wayne M
Our geust of honor Wayne Merry and Tricouni.
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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May 29, 2015 - 05:37pm PT
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I was privileged to climb with carlyle on several occasions. Joshua Tree, Red Rocks, and 2 weeks without seeing another soul in the stronghold. I had such a crush on her!!!! We grew apart, as people sometimes do, and it was several years after her passing until I learned of her accident, and reading her name again brought back fond memories. I still have 30 or so emails from her saved and read them from time to time. As she would say ....."until"
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2015 - 02:36pm PT
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Thank you Cavemonkey. She sounds like a good soul.
Supafly- not sure. We just past there and all appears normal.
Trippy that instagram is the most up to date on the situation. Apparently they shut down the highway as an lz.
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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May 31, 2015 - 07:01pm PT
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I saw the rescue on the evening news with John Howe , and remembered he is the sleeping giant in Squamish climbing, out there saving your bacon when you f..k up!
He's your typical bristly Squamish understated local hero, hats off and respect to John.
The papoose is his crag,but my favorite story is his ascent of Super Value at the Bluffs. Robin Barley had just bolted the route,not sure if Robin had sent it yet, John was the chosen lead climb guinea pig of the day, as John chipped the 1/4" bolt at the crux, it slid out of the drilled hole onto his lap! Typical hard man of the day, he continued and finished the climb.
Today he was instrumental in another rescue,no fanfare, just a professional taking care of business. Thank you John.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 31, 2015 - 07:56pm PT
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I saw the rescue on the evening news with John Howe , and remembered he is the sleeping giant in Squamish climbing,
I don't know if he's the "sleeping giant of Squamish climbing," but he was definitely more badass than
a lot of people realize. Photo below shows the North Buttress of Needle Peak. John and Blake Robinson
walked in from tidewater for the first (and maybe only) ascent in 1987 or so. It's about 4,000 ft
base to summit, and other than a few photos (like this one from Mt. Sir Frances Drake) they had no beta.
And as gnarly as the climb may be, the approach is an order of magnitude worse.
And here's John in a less burly moment, collecting big bucks to help Tami and me save Canada.
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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May 31, 2015 - 09:10pm PT
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And still giving back to the climbing community, makes him legit.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2015 - 02:00pm PT
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John has always been very kind whenever i've met him. A great guy doing great things. Thanks John. Thanks to Rolf and Dave for those tales too.
Cbc offers up this confusing tale.
A rescue operation stalled traffic along the Sea-to-Sky Highway Sunday morning after a hiker fell 9 metres onto a ledge while scaling a rockface in the Cheakamus Canyon north of Squamish.
Search and Rescue officials say the man, in his mid-40s, was on a rope being guided by his partner from the ground when he fell around 10:30 a.m. PT. They estimated he fell about 30 feet or 9 metres.
http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/british-columbia/hiker-falls-9-metres-while-climbing-rockface-near-squamish-1.3094817
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2015 - 08:14am PT
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Lol Tami!
Crazy story Ryan L!
I often wonder if you had half ropes in that situation if it would make a difference or just cut both lines.
I found this shot of me on Hamie's favourite climb, while going through my flickr awhile ago.
Thought it might work well for old photo thursday.
Big Mike on slab alley
Phil Tifo Photo
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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any of u canadians have pictures of carlyle climbing in squamish? She has been in my thoughts since I stumbled across here name here. Wish I had some pics of squampton to post, but last time I climbed there was before digi camera's!
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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Anyone got any news on the next McClane comprehensive guidebook? It seems to have been at the "about to be released" stage for 5 years or so.
I see that amazon is offering the old one for $100/copy!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Ghost upthread:
And as gnarly as the climb may be, the approach is an order of magnitude worse.
:-)
just take me back to California!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2015 - 08:21am PT
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Not I cavemonkey. Sorry. Hopefully someone else might post a few up?
Anyone got any news on the next McClane comprehensive guidebook? It seems to have been at the "about to be released" stage for 5 years or so.
So, word is that he's got Andrew Boyd on the case now and it will be released this fall....
But I heard it was going to be released last fall too.. Lol
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Ryan L
climber
PORT MOODY
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Apparently there is also a new app/guidebook coming out for the smokebluffs called "Cragger"?. They have been around the bluffs the past couple weekends getting drone shots of the all the climbs.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Wishing Bruce Kay well.
Thanking recent contributors.
Great thread, Big Mike.
Question for Scrubber:
Is there a story behind the name of the climb Canadian Compromise?
thekidcormier
9 Nov 2011
Most of the lower malamute is relatively clean and climbable although illegal, except the few that bruce mentioned along with the two access pitches to quagmire; canadian compromise a 'wild' looking flaring flake
RyanD
9 May 2012
The only negative is you need to rap in or climb your choice of a heinous chimney flare(canadian compromise?) or dirty barley route (smithereens) or Fungus razor (good luck) to get there.
RyanD
19 June 2013
do Canadian compromise to quagmire crack on the way out. It is not closed & quagmire is one of the best 5.10s anywhere- Bring 2 blue camalots for cc.
Among the 3 of us we had 6 blues but ended up using 1 blue and one Robert. You could probably cut that gear by 1 blue.
Gnarly. A kneepad wouldn't hurt.
A railroad truck drove by and talked to us but were completely friendly. No discouraging words.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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So was there an anthrax scare on the Chief today or something?
We got to the base of the Grand Wall kind of late (maybe 10:00) and...
...and we were the only ones there! Gorgeous Saturday, bound to get stinking hot later, so the morning should have seen lineups on every climb along the base. But there wasn't a soul until we reached the right end and found two guys getting started on Millenium Falcon.
A bit later... Uh, okay, a lot later, we all topped out at about the same time. The Millenium Falconeers, us on Europa, and two other guys who arrived later and made quick work of the Grand.
But that was it. As far as I could tell, there was no one all day on any of the shorter climbs along the base, and no one coming up behind any of us on the longer routes.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Here are a couple shots from my solo adventures as of late.
Kyle went up South Arete ahead of me a couple weeks ago and got some shots of me coming up St Vitus. The camera angle makes it look steeper than it actually is. I wouldn't want to climb this with a wasps nest on my head!
Relic took this of me earlier today on Worlds Toughest Milkman. I hadn't been on it before today. It's short, but super fun. I let the feet cut because... why not?
I contemplated this one for a while, but hit it up on a surprise day off during the week. Had a solid stem just below the crux, so whipped out my phone for a selfie haha. I needed a memento. Felt great, and I linked it into Ultimate Everything. Made an awesome outing.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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As far as I could tell, there was no one all day on any of the shorter climbs along the base
We're all going tomorrow.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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BM
Nice shot of Slab Alley, thanks. The "elephant steps" look deeper/bigger than I remember them. How much do you weigh? :) :)
Ghost
TR for Europa/Crap Crags? Pix? Comments?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2015 - 10:46am PT
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Apparently there is also a new app/guidebook coming out for the smokebluffs called "Cragger"?. They have been around the bluffs the past couple weekends getting drone shots of the all the climbs.
I think this is Hevy's new project. Sounds like the idea is a comprehensive guide to the bluffs in an app form.
Marc Bourdon recently released an app version of his select guide which included only the bluffs section of the guide.
Andy, so nice to see you here and thanks for the pics from Canadian Compromise! Looks fun in that awkward grindy offwidth sort of way.. Lol
Dave, nice to hear you guys had fun out there. Maybe everyone got scared off by the heat?
Nathan you crazy bro. Crazy. :)
Hamie- That's actually right after the really deep ones. Starting out on the upper slabs. Maybe the shadows make them look deeper?
I'm about 220 in that photo probably.. A bit leaner than my current state.. Lol
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2015 - 07:48pm PT
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Sandra and i got out for a few pitches this afternoon.
It was a gorgeous day. Any guesses where?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2015 - 07:59pm PT
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Todd,
Would a rose by any other name smell as sweet?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Ghost: TR for Europa/Crap Crags? Pix? Comments?
TR? You really want a trip report of an old guy getting hauled up a 5.8?
The TR is pretty simple. We drove up to Squamish on Friday, climbed Europa on Saturday, and then went for a beer with some old friends.
The slightly longer version is that Mari, as usual, wanted to do something hard; while I, as usual, was thinking "I could have stayed home and done a full weekend's work in the garden." But at some point on Friday night I said something about "Well, maybe I'd enjoy some moderate multi-pitch climb," and after plunging into the guidebook she came back up and said, "Right, how about Europa?"
So we agreed on Europa. Her, because even though it was too easy, it was at least something she hadn't climbed before. Me, because we agreed that if we started early enough, we'd be able to get to the top of the fourth pitch (where a rappel escape is possible) before the sun came over the rim and turned the Chief into a giant reflector oven.
We got on it by 10:30 or so (that's an alpine start for seniors), and, sure enough, were at the top of the fourth pitch with a bit of time to spare before the broiler turned on. Also sure enough, there were bolts and chains so beefy you could lower a locomotive off them. Which was good, because the climb to that point had followed a rising rightward weakness, without a single bolt, and bailing would not only be difficult, but also expensive.
So, with four pitches in the bag, I said, "Right, time to go home and see what's in the fridge." "Uuhhh..." sez she, "look what we'd be rapping into."
Hmmm. Total jungle. But the anchor was obviously there for rapping, so we tossed the ropes, and Mari dropped down the twenty feet to where they were piled up in the bush, and wisely said: "This is f*#ked."
It wasn't me down there, but, given that she knows what she's doing, and that a bushwhack rappel with no knowledge of what was below seemed stupid, she came back up (not without some cussing), and we pulled the ropes, and a variety of bushes that were tangled in them, back up, too.
I figured we'd probably die on the next three pitches, and that someone climbing the route on a cooler day would find our desiccated bodies, but it turned out that the sun didn't come over the rim until we'd finished the fifth pitch, and that the sixth and seventh pitch are in the shade almost no matter what the angle of the sun.
So that's pretty much it. We topped out at the south end of bellygood ledge, and hiked down the backside trail (running into Dave Vernon and Richard Suddabe en-route), and drove home. After showering, we went out for a beer and a bite with some old friends who live in Squamish.
But that's not what you wanted to know, is it? You want to know about "Europa vs Crap Crags."
I loved Crap Crags. It was a true Squamish adventure that I've had in my memory for thirty-five years. I climbed it with Steve Loomer, who was not only my closest friend back then, but also a terrific partner. Yeah, sure, half of it involved pulling up on tree roots and branches, and most of it wasn't very hard, but there'd been a real sense of setting off into the unknown, and we'd both enjoyed it.
So what has it become? Well, there's still one tree. The start of one of the upper pitches is an overhanging Bachar ladder of tree branches. The rest is vegetable-free, but, oddly, still offers a feeling of adventure. It is anything but another immaculately-cleaned Squamish crack. It is pitch after pitch of weird, blocky, mountain-like climbing. It's physical, too. Burly far beyond its grade -- the complete antitheses of modern granite climbing.
Hamish, I think you'd like it. It even has a squeeze chimney.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Good choice to continue. We watched a party rapping from it today, on the few occasions they were visible among the brush. They may still be up there.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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We watched a party rapping from it today, on the few occasions they were visible among the brush. They may still be up there.
Hmmm. Likely Bob Koen and his young son Alex.
I mentioned above that we'd joined a couple of old friends for food and beer afterwards. But along with Ed and Helen came Bob and Alex. I vaguely remember Bob from way back, but he apparently had a knee replaced recently and is now getting back on the rock, and his son is just getting into it.
We tried to say this might not be the best choice for a day out with the kid and the new knee, but Bob's been around the block a couple of times, so I figured they'd probably survive.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Ah, James, tell us more.
When we were supping with Ed and Helen, the subject of "Cleaning Europa cost an incredible amount," came up. Of course, having cleaned my fair share of pitches at Squamish, I immediately thought, "Yeah? Like what? A few hundred dollars?"
But Ed and Helen both said no, it was something like $14K.
And you say $17K?????? What the f*#k is up with that? And bolts? What do you mean about bolts? There are only seven bolts on the entire seven pitches (the belay at the top of p4, and bolt ladder that starts p6).
Anyone who's done any serious cleaning at Squamish knows that there's a certain investment in gardening tools and a couple of static ropes, but other than that the only cost is your time. Was he billing for his route-cleaning time? And did someone actually agree to pay him?
Tell us about this one. Seriously. This is beyond intriguing.
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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If I could charge for my time route building, I could actually retire
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Ghost. Thanks for all the info. Amusing that you had to do the whole thing. Good or bad karma?
What I am most interested in is the overall stability of the climb. Some have described it as a tottering pile of loose and oozing rubble, resulting from the massive gardening efforts of some VOC members. Others say that is an exaggeration, and despite following a fault line, and the extensive cleaning, the climb is safe and solid. Ghost??
Against my better judgement I am currently engaged in cleaning several mossy but well featured slabs. We have uncovered 10 routes so far, with maybe 8 more still buried. Not sure if I can scrub that many...... Using a wire brush all day is great for the grip.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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I climbed Crap Crags once, partly on the word of Ghost that it offered a nice view across Grand Wall. It was impossible to be sure of where the route went because of all the cedar but Neil Bennett and I happily climbed several pitches of cedar before arriving at the big ledge which takes you off right. It was hard to see anything but cedar.
I've climbed Europa many times and the view has much improved. I especially like the giant arching series of roofs that only the Black Dyke and seldom-visited aid lines surmount.
When Europa was under construction the word was that it was intended as a moderate trad route for leaders not yet ready for the harder lines. It turned out to be more of a roadside alpine route which no one without a good deal of previous climbing experience should do.
The first pitch of Europa goes up a corner on flakes which all hold each other in place. It gives a good idea of what the route is like. The rock is not super clean. However, the route is solid enough at the moment and it protects well.
Initially there was a bolt ladder to leave the right end of the big ramp ledge and get to the final crack and chimney system. There is now a face climb closely protected with bolts and a tricky crack/layback/whatever to get to the hand crack. Out of character with the rest of the climb.
The final chimney is what scares me most. Not so much the chimney but a few perched blocks to the left.
If I remember, a fair part of the cost of Europa comes from the protagonist factoring repairs to his vehicle into the total.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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View from Europa
View on Europa
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Ghost. Thanks for all the info. Amusing that you had to do the whole thing. Good or bad karma? What I am most interested in is the overall stability of the climb. Some have described it as a tottering pile of loose and oozing rubble, resulting from the massive gardening efforts of some VOC members. Others say that is an exaggeration, and despite following a fault line, and the extensive cleaning, the climb is safe and solid. Ghost??
Definitely good karma.
I think Andy's description (above this post) is pretty much spot-on. If you encountered those seven pitches on a mountain route, you'd be thinking it was incredibly solid and clean. If your experience is limited to perfectly-scrubbed crack climbs at Yosemite or Squamish, you'd probably be terrified.
And, as Andy said, it is definitely not an easy introduction to multi-pitch climbing on the Chief. If you aid the hard bit on the fifth pitch, then the 5.8/A0 rating is probably accurate. But it's no place for beginners. With one exception, the belays are all on gear; there is only one place to escape (and that didn't look attractive at all); and the climbing is seriously hard for its grade.
Also as Andy also points out, there is a short bolt ladder (five bolts) to start p6, so the total for the route is seven. and they're all at those two spots -- the rap anchor at the top of p4, and the first eight meters of p6.
Finally, where do I send the bill for all the wear and tear on my cars over the years of new-routing? I could sure use $15K or $20K.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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David, Tami and Andy, thanks for the interesting TR and comments. I've done Crap Crags but not Europa, so maybe I shouldn't comment, but....
I thought Crap Crags was a fun and adventurous route. It was, as others have said, it was definitely more "alpine" in nature than most other Squamish routes. And now it's gone.
I don't think removing the route was a good idea, but I do think the "cleaning" was done with the best of intentions. But where does the cleaning stop? Must every route be immaculately groomed (and bolted, in many cases)? It there no room for adventure, vertical bush, and grotty cracks, and doubtful rock? Is Squamish turing into one big outdoor gym? What will it look like in another 30 years? Should some areas be off-limits to cleaning? I don't know.
I do know that geological process will continue its work at CC/Europa. Rock will keep loosening, rain will continue to fall, and trees will continue t grow. Unless someone goes up there with a few 45-gallon drums of epoxy, I think we will someday get Crap Crags back again.
By the way, has anyone done any tree-ring counts on trees removed from routes such as CC, Skywalker, etc. How old were those trees?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Croft and Knight 1979 (FFA)
Overall, Glenn, Squamish retains its character while accommodating bouldering, sport climbing, and new route development. There is still a lot of room for everyone, every bug and rocks and trees. Mistakes are made and lessons learned. We are short on parking but retired folk can avoid weekends.
Yesterday we gave a lift back to Vancouver to some Mexican kids here to climb sport 13s. They say Guadalajara is home to 30 or 40 people who climb that level. A Mexican lad has been working on Cobra Crack and may have got it today. The world is coming to Squamish and we will probably be better for it. The kids from the south were full of energy and good feelings.
Tony Ellis photo
Perry Beckham story
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1159510&tn=0
We are very fortunate to have Tami Knight, Peter Croft, Glenn Woodsworth, Hamish Mutch, Perry Beckham, and many others talk to us here.
I think 30 years from now many other people many other places will recall great times had at Squamish.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Thanks to everyone for their various thoughts. I have met Jeff M several times, as he has friends locally, and he is a 'very nice guy'. We climbed together once at Waterline--lotsa fun.
I think that he was a victim of good intentions and some dubious information. Several guidebook editions ago, Kevin McLane wrote "If CC was returned to its original state, it would be the most popular climb at Squamish". Or words to that effect.
Jeff took the bait/challenge, and was soon in over his head. He could have quit part way through, but he and his friends persevered and produced either a classic or a classic disaster, depending on your pov. It's too bad the way things turned out for him. Perhaps he was destined to quit climbing anyhow, with a new PhD, new job, young child etc. etc. Hopefully he will be back one day. He has promised to drag me up E/CC if I ever get back to Squish. I may have to hold him to it.
Don't think badly of Jeff. He was a young person doing what he thought was best for 'the community'.
MH2. Your last E/CC pic is definition "clusterf*ck"
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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^
Or the defenition of a popular route...it was supposed to fall off an grow over by now...but now that the birds are gone? guess that scenario is less likely...i bet the last couple pitches get loads of traffic as an easy finish to sunset strip
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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MH2, nice footwear those guys have in your last photo.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Don't think badly of Jeff. He was a young person doing what he thought was best for 'the community'.
I sure don't think badly of him. Never met him, so don't know anything about the personal side, but he's given us a pretty terrific climb. I'm not aware of anything like it a Squamish, and as long as future guidebooks retain the caveat about some loose rock, what's to complain about?
However, I'd still like to hear some stories about the getting-paid-for-a-new-route part of it.
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RyanD
climber
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Nice to see some great contributions here, Thx everyone.
I heard somewhere that the road to hell is paved with good intentions :-)
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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no good bolt-clippin, beta-huntin, crimp-tickin, tight-shoed, poofta-doggers. ^^
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2015 - 07:44am PT
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No time to post now, but excellent contributions here lately. (Hi Ryan and Kieran!)
Sandra and i went and hung out by the river last night for a bit...
It was fun despite the crowds.
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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Jun 11, 2015 - 10:22am PT
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Don't think badly of Jeff. He was a young person doing what he thought was best for 'the community'.
Yeah, I think the McLane guidebook, which says something like "this would be the best moderate that goes the full height of the chief if it were ever cleaned" or words to that effect led Jeff astray. I knew him briefly in my time in the VOC and he was more of an all-rounder, mostly into skiing and doing crazy backcountry stuff, not so much of a climber (like most of the VOC I found). AFAIK this was his first route he had ever cleaned.
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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Jun 11, 2015 - 01:18pm PT
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Tami - I remember this story back when he did that (2008/9?). And many seriously burly kayaking outings too. Tough guy for sure.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 11, 2015 - 11:36pm PT
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If I recall correctly, Jeff swam to Anvil Island naked, and then did the hike naked and in bare feet as well. A force of nature.
Did he and some friends canoe to the Franklin and attempt the Wadd? Something like that...... Anyone?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 12, 2015 - 06:56am PT
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Did he and some friends canoe to the Franklin and attempt the Wadd? Something like that...... Anyone?
You're probably thinking of Kobus Barnard. Paddled from Vancouver Island, climbed Mt. Waddington, paddled back. Kobus was the real deal.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2015 - 08:07pm PT
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Lol! Classic! Jeff sounds like a real character for sure.
Sandra has been bugging me, to do Starchek for awhile now, so Wednesday after work, we headed down there.
On the highway we met Jeff and Adam, who were agreeable to combining ropes, so we could do the long rap.
Adam starting the long rap
Jeff starting the first pitch 5.8
Sandra was all smiles.
Chilling down by the river.
The Gorge
Chekamus River
Leaning Tower Of Pizza & Gotham City
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2015 - 09:52pm PT
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I don't have much to say on the Crap Crags/Europa topic, because I haven't been up there yet.
I did quite enjoy Dave's mini tr and Andy's photos on the subject, and Tami's tall tale about Jeff. One of these days i'll get up there.
Would love to hear a tale from the fa?
I offer you this closeup of a local fixed pin. And a couple questions.
What kind of piton is it?
Where is it currently fixed?
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Jun 14, 2015 - 10:33pm PT
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Kobus was a beast in the mountains, I met him on an ACC trip he led to Chamois peak in the Anderson river.
An attractive young lass had joined the weekend outing, i suspect her interests were more aligned to bagging a fit young red head, local Squamish climber than to any actual peak bagging.
Unfortunately she lacked any climbing experience. The next day my partner Bob Roche and I raced up the climb and spent an enjoyable 4 hours sitting in the meadows watching Kobus haul her up 8 pitches like a sack of potatoes.
He was one tough mountain man . No he didn't have red hair!
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Jun 14, 2015 - 10:44pm PT
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A Lost Arrow pin, maybe a stubby. At one time they were Robin Barley's favourite alternative to bolts beside shallow cracks. On Diamond Dogs above Snake ?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2015 - 10:38am PT
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Edit
Rolf- thanks for the pin info. The location geuss is pretty darn close! Somewhere in that vicinity.
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Stewart
Trad climber
Courtenay, B.C.
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Jun 15, 2015 - 01:33pm PT
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Lost Arrow for sure.
Might even be one of mine - Daryl Hatten used to bum gear from me all the time & then leave it fixed all over Squamish. Check for red white & blue paint.
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maurop
Gym climber
B-dot
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Jun 15, 2015 - 03:15pm PT
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What kind of piton is it?
Where is it currently fixed?
L.A. at the top of Diedre...?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2015 - 06:12pm PT
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Stewart- Not yours, probably Jim Sinclairs???
Tami- Thanks! You were right, it is somewhere wet!
Maurop! Yes! And welcome?
You are correct! You win a pano fron the last pitch of Diedre.
A lot of people miss this pin at the end of the runout groove at the top of Diedre..
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maurop
Gym climber
B-dot
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Jun 16, 2015 - 07:21am PT
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Sweet, I'm loving the pano. The pin doesn't inspire much confidence, but the move itself protects easily.
And very cool online community here, lot's of names I recognize from the guidebooks and magazines, and some very awesome stories about squamish. Looking forward to more!
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Jun 16, 2015 - 07:30am PT
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Great pics! TFPU!
That river looks like fun...where have all the kayakers gone :)
What's with that pipe sticking out of the water? At least it's pointing downstream.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2015 - 08:11am PT
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Jim- you deleted your piece? Too bad, i quite enjoyed it before i passed out last night. I often wish i was around in the days of yore.
Maurop- i bet you still clip it before getting a peice in!
Rincon- it's probably a stick. That section is class 5+ - 6 So it doesn't get run much...
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Jun 17, 2015 - 07:15pm PT
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Fixed pins made you remember the old adage " the leader shall not fall"
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 17, 2015 - 11:22pm PT
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BM asked for "a tale of the FA" of Europa/Crap Crags. Sorry, no tale, but if a pic is worth 1,000 words, here is a 5,000 word TR.
The first few pitches of E/CC. What you see is what you get.
Day 1, Pitch 8. The infamous "Twisting Tunnel Pitch".
Day 2, Pitch 18. The notorious "Thorny Question Pitch".
Day 3, Pitch 28. The terrifying "Pitch of the Nesting Songbirds" Or was that Pitch 29?
Day 4. Success is ours!!! Descending the backside trail. I look as if I have aged 40 or more years, but that is a temporary result of the extreme difficulty and stress experienced on the climb.
.
LOL!!
:) :) :)
HM.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 18, 2015 - 06:08am PT
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Thanks for the photos Hamish. That's almost exactly how I remember Crap Crags! My only quibble is that I think the photo you've labeled Pitch 18 may actually be Pitch 19. (And the Songbird Pitch is 29.) Of course, it would have been great if you'd posted pictures of some the pitches above p29, but since they aren't as pleasant as what one has climbed up to that point, I suppose it's no big loss.
I would love to post some pictures of Europa, so that you can see how the route has changed, but my camera (and much of food and water for the last two days) was lost in one of the many loose-rock incidents.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jun 18, 2015 - 07:05am PT
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Now THAT is a Squamish story. And photos.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jun 18, 2015 - 12:06pm PT
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You guys getting smoked out?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jun 18, 2015 - 05:49pm PT
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another old pin
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2015 - 07:45pm PT
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Thanks Hamie!
Nice photos! They seem a little tropical tho....
And weren't you this James Dean lookin' type at the time?? ;)
Nice pic Andy! Looks like you got out today? Is that another LA?
I see the Apron and what i'm assuming is knee wrecker chimney? Is that Uwall you're on??
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jun 18, 2015 - 08:27pm PT
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Excellent locating, Mike. Not Kneewrecker though and not on U Wall.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2015 - 08:10am PT
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Hmm... Ok. Well i'm pretty sure that's not the pillar in the background... Is the apron futher away than i think? Hmm.. Stumped without my guide handy...
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jun 19, 2015 - 08:28am PT
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Knee-wrecker is behind the feature which looks like it, which is a small corner system on a route I once went partway up with Rolf.
Here is another look at where the pin is, and to show that there is still dirt and vegetation on Squamish routes. Neither this route or the one I did with Rolf are in the Select guide.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2015 - 09:21am PT
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Hmm.. I remember that line on the topo in the Mclane guide, but the name escapes me at the moment... I often use my guides to figure out these queries... I feel lost without them.. ;)
Sweet pics btw.. Is that Robert?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jun 19, 2015 - 12:31pm PT
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We are on p2 of Aged in Oak. A good link with and contrast to Seasoned in the Sun. We have arrived close to Never Were Warriors, the corner that looks like Kneewrecker. There are bolts above but we rapped. I was glad to find back at the car that the guide calls Aged in Oak two pitches. I'd done p1 once before. I was also glad we didn't continue after seeing that the guide indicates a hook move just above us.
Above p2 of Aged in Oak we could see the "long sustained groove" of Never Were Warriors. There seemed to be a healthy growth of grass in it, too.
Yes, the man in yellow is Robert.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jun 19, 2015 - 09:56pm PT
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I'm a bit late with this, because I've been far out of town.
Arguably the strongest of the first generation of female climbers at Squamish, before Tami arrived, was Mavis McCuaig. She was quite active from about 1963 to about 1968, climbing mainly with Hamie and to a lesser extent with Tricouni and others of that generation.
Mave made several first ascents, including Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side on Tantalus Wall (with Hamie and Tricouni) and the Baldwin Crack (with Hamie) at Murrin Park.
Mave in the infamous offwidth on Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side.
Mavis McCuaig Hall died on May 18, 2015, of complications of Parkinson's disease. She was 71. Not many people on this forum will have heard of her, but I thought I'd post this brief notice for the few that have. She was a good person, great fun, and she will be missed.
Glenn Woodsworth
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jun 19, 2015 - 10:16pm PT
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Brief but full of meaning and a beautiful look back to the past.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2015 - 10:21pm PT
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Very Cool Andy! What does Aged in Oak go at?
Thanks for that tribute Glenn. I did know of Mavis, thanks to Hamie and yourself. Your contributions to this thread have enriched my understanding of the history of Squamish climbing immensely.
My condolences to you and Hamie, as well as other friends and family.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jun 22, 2015 - 10:55am PT
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Aged in Oak went with some slipping and sliding on pitch 1 and and some mind-your-feet traversing on both pitches. Not much crack or positive hands but low angle. Good bolting except at the top of pitch 2. Weathered ropes hanging from both anchors.
Nice rocks, Paramount.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 22, 2015 - 06:58pm PT
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Well, what choice did they have? Seriously? If there was any location in the US that looked like a location in the US, they'd obviously have filmed the George Washington story there. But, as everyone knows, nothing in the US looks as much like the US as some fake rocks in Squamish, so, in the interest of historical accuracy, Squamish was the only acceptable location.
Right?
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jun 22, 2015 - 07:42pm PT
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Ryan go get some FAs on those set boulders. Chalk it up!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 22, 2015 - 09:14pm PT
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Mave McCuaig was a climber's climber, and the first woman to climb at Squamish on a regular basis. She also visited the Peshastins, the Rockies and the Bugs, did a new route on Sky Pilot, and made a ski ascent of Garibaldi. Mave and her friend Sheila were the first Canadian women to climb in Yosemite, where they did several routes with Layton Kor.
She climbed in a simpler time.......
Before kernmantle ropes.
When you cut and tied your own slings.
Before quickdraws, nuts or cams. [Snake]
When you could have the whole Apron to yourself.
.
When you tied your own aiders, and carried them 'just in case'. [YPLS}
When you could have the entire Chief to yourself.
Before free-standing tents, metal axes and MSR stoves.
Before internal frame packs,and the Kain hut.
When you could enjoy the entire Bugaboo range by yourself, even on the Labour Day long weekend.
We are all older now.
Mave is on the sharp end again.....
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jun 22, 2015 - 09:20pm PT
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What a gift, what a treasure.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 22, 2015 - 09:22pm PT
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Thanks Hamish.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jun 23, 2015 - 06:01am PT
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Hamie. THAT was a great post! Thanks.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2015 - 03:04pm PT
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Hamish- that's the stuff... Gold. Makes all my efforts worthwhile.
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Jun 24, 2015 - 06:25pm PT
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Random Squamish question, is it relatively easy to locate the Uncle Bens Rap route? Are the stations fairly easy to spot? Any 199 ft rappels? Trying to decide if it's better to rap with haulbags or ferry gear across bellygood....
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Stewart
Trad climber
Courtenay, B.C.
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Jun 24, 2015 - 07:17pm PT
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Daryl & I rapped Ben's. It wasn't fun.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jun 24, 2015 - 07:27pm PT
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I heard that John Stoddard of Seattle crossed Bellygood after a solo winter aid ascent and it easily could have been a big and final deal.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 24, 2015 - 07:28pm PT
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If you're unwilling to exit across bellygood with your haulbag, you can do what I did -- accidentally drop the bag part way up, and bail from there. The first few raps are easy.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 24, 2015 - 10:16pm PT
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Synchro: rapping uncle bens is easy and it is the ideal way to limit the physical effort of humping a shoulder bruising wall load back to the car park from the dance platform. If you can get throught the business of long run outs of Merci me, the exciting hooking at the start of the head wall and the thinness of the upper sickles, the rap will be mellow.
Having said that, you already bailed didn't you? I called it at 8am this morning, "if that soloist isn't moving by now he is bailing for sure"
Sure enough a couple hours later the soloist had vanished.
The chief and I aggreed that Gravity is way stronger when trying to solo a wall route and that the lure of the ground evaporates once you get down.
If that was you, nice work on getting up to the roof, now get up there and top out.
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Jun 25, 2015 - 12:53am PT
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We are only packing the essentials, wall rack, water, smokables, hibachi barbecue, steaks and cheap wine....
That was not me on Uncle Bens, we are heading over in a few days, hoping to climb something in that area, probably gonna fix and blast with day gear so no ledge and overnight stuff to haul.
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RyanD
climber
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Jun 25, 2015 - 02:57pm PT
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Some great stuff on that last page. Thanks everyone.
I haven't added climbing stuff here forever but here's a few shots of a new climb up at Quercus cliff @ murrin that my friend Jay and I did the other day.
It was funny, as we had finished cleaning and the roshambo for the lead (which I won after quadruple scissor standoff) Harry walked up to the crag. I decided to give him the lead for all the pitches and efforts he's put into putting up a massive slew of quality routes for us. But He didn't really want it since he was taking a rest day, but after some prodding we sent him off for a ground up, onsight, FA attempt. He put in a great effort but didn't quite get it. Jay and I climbed it after and I think it's a pretty fun, pumpy climbing with some really perfect stone and good gear. The nice part was that we didn't need to place any bolts and it's probably the most splitter crack on the cliff, I may be biased tho :-) Chris H showed up and flashed it after too which was cool!
The moustache woman
11a? 30m
Start left of the glass slipper about 10m and climb up ledgy corners to a spooky step left below the tree ledge on the arete. Once on the ledge its good to back clean if u can and sling the tree long before stepping out right on the face and following the nice splitter hand traverse all the way to "the man from del monte" chains.
Lower and clean on tr.
enjoy!
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Jun 25, 2015 - 06:12pm PT
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Would there be a lot of freeclimbers on U-Wall these days? What are the odds of it being free on a sunny weekend? Don't wanna get into a fustercluck if there's people all over it.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 25, 2015 - 06:42pm PT
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Whoo Hoo! Well done Ryan. That looks very nice.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jun 25, 2015 - 07:09pm PT
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Blessings on Ryan for making Harry appear on this thread in such a fine way.
Thanks for the route, too.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2015 - 04:32pm PT
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Very nice to see you post here Ryan! Thanks for those awesome pics! We should tie in soon. I'll give you a ring when i get back.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2015 - 10:15am PT
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I'm lying in bed. Absolutely bagged from my trip, but still dreaming of the Apron...
Have fun out there today boys and girls!!!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jun 27, 2015 - 11:07am PT
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Mike, did you just change the photo in the above post? Glacier Point Apron morphed into Squamish?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2015 - 11:11am PT
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Tami- seems like a good day to check out the valley of shade?? ;)
Haha Glenn, yes you caught my boo boo. I had the bath rock shot still in my clipboard at first....
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jun 28, 2015 - 01:45pm PT
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Strange.
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quantum7
Trad climber
Squamish
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Jun 28, 2015 - 01:57pm PT
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When its too hot in Squamish to crag, this is how we do...
[photo[photoid=416232]id=416231]
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 29, 2015 - 08:08am PT
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BJ, actually made me lol. Nice one.
This is how I've been beating the heat and getting my climbing fix at the same time.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2015 - 04:33pm PT
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Nice work Quantum!
Lol eric. You rule!
Nathan- that looks like fun!
So i got out this morning despite the heat. Showed a new buddy around the bluffs a bit and this rig was calling my name. Shining in the sun....
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ajamunro
Social climber
BC
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Hope you didn't get too crispy on that Big Mike!
I got chewed out for asking a guy not to smoke in the forest today.
It would seem to me to be a really good idea to not smoke in these tinder dry forests, right?
I dunno, he made me feel bad but I'm pretty sure I had the best intentions.
Perhaps someone here could reach out to the access society, or parks, and get them to put some no smoking signs up on the poster boards?
I used to smoke, so I know it sucks being told to butt out, and that "I'm never going to start the forest fire"... but greater good, and all that?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Wow, Mike! That may be the driest I have ever seen that route. Surely it wasn't entirely dry?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2015 - 09:59pm PT
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Hope you didn't get too crispy on that Big Mike!
Nah. We climbed the 5.6 around the corner instead.. Lol I've learned to ignore some things calling my name. I tron'd this rig one day before i split my spine in two, but i never led it and i'm a few grades away from pulling it still these days, but it feels more within my reach which is nice to report.
Smoking near accelerants in these tinder dry conditions is not necessarily the smartest idea to be certain. Won't be long if this heat keeps up before the fsr's are shuttered for fire concerns.
There are plenty of open spaces where accelerants aren't a problem.
Lol Jim.
Andy- if you look closely you can see some small patches at the bottom, but it was pretty darn dry for sure. Would be a great evening project. I would love to shoot it! ;) sorry i haven't got to your photo yet. This week has been pretty crazy..
Eric- what did you do to these aussies to make em chase you with hammers?? ;)
Frigging horse crap. The worst. I approached one of the tour leaders to ask about it awhile back and they told me they always pick it up. When we finished our climb, we passed the same spot again, where one of their horses had defecated within minutes of our conversation...
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markr
Trad climber
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Hey Big Mike, that crack looks amazing. What is that rig, is it Elephantiasis?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2015 - 11:20pm PT
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First of all i'd like to extend a proper welcome to ajamunroe. Your first post was swept under the rug by the bruce kay banning and I must apologize for missing you then. 2nd post and I hope we see more.
Markr! It is indeed my friend. Hit it up, you won't be disapointed. Just bring some extra gear and you'll be all good. The fists on it are absolutely incredible.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2015 - 11:55pm PT
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Took my buddy Tony out today to learn to crack climb. He's done some sport climbing in spain but after a horrible accident involving rockfall in the mountains he swore off trad climbing for good. I baited him with some bolts at chek before i went to cor, and promised to introduce him to some easy crack the next time out.
He asked me if we were going climbing this week at work and i said "heck ya!"
We hit up mcm (5.6) this morning and he led it after he top roped it. Then i stuck him on the slab 10b beside mcm just to confuse him a little and then Heather came out and nearly floated it, which confounded him even more! Lol
We ate lunch at the farmers market for some local culture and then headed off to murrin for some shady climbs and a dip to cool off.
Here he is "opening" a nice moderate.. Any guesses where?
I got him all stoked on climbing the apron now! ;)
[evil laugh on] Hahahahahahahaha!!! [/evil laugh off]
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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I'd guess where, only it wouldn't be a guess.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2015 - 08:37am PT
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Why Andy? Did you see me there or it's because you know me so well.. Lol
I am rather predictable...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Here he is "opening" a nice moderate.. Any guesses where?
Looks like the Commonwealth. I don't know any of the route names, but that does look like I remember the Commonwealth looking.
And I did hear you'd been up that way...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2015 - 10:53am PT
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Yes sir! I ran into Mari there but i guess the heat was too much for them and they skiddadled home?? Maybe Andy knows the route name?
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markr
Trad climber
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Otto Mattock?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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The AZN woman next door has a couple of yappy little dogs that I've kind of been sizing up for the grill. But my AZN partner says she won't eat them even if I slow-cook them slathered with sweet sour BBQ sauce.
I suppose I could dognap them and deliver them anonymously to that new Korean restaurant that opened down in Pioneer Square...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2015 - 05:20pm PT
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Markr you were so close.. It's the leftmost line, Fanfare for the common man, 5.7
Lol Eric. You and your AZN kick..
Lol Dave. I bet they'd be real tasty... Lol
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Greetings from Squamish
The hazy days of ...July? It was 35 today. 27 at 6am Never felt so hot in the 20+ years I've been hanging around here
A lotta fire smoke tonight, coming from either Sechelt or the Elaho.
Blacked out early this morning as well (NW winds from the Elaho
It cleared up quite nicely though to get a climb in... one of the best of the newer routes around here IMO.
It used to be called Snot.. Now known as Chewbacca :)
A five min scramble from the top gets you to here
Keep cool, people ;0
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Nice, Saugy.
Another way to climb and stay cool:
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maurop
Gym climber
B-dot
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Sweet pictures! The talk around my climbing friends is about deepwater soloing these days, it's been too hot out to climb without a bit of suffering.
Is anyone out climbing in this smoke?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2015 - 01:19pm PT
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Awesome shots Andy!
Yup..climbing ladders.. Sux! Go away smoke!!
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maurop
Gym climber
B-dot
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Ya seriously - if things keep up we'll be kept out of the backcountry like '04. And hopefully it doesn't come to mandatory rapps after p4/5, like JB mentioned.
From the Joffre area, showing smoke from what I'm assuming is the Boulder Creek Fire. It was totally clear only a half hour before this photo, when we saw smoke billowing over the skyline.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Apparently the glacier never even formed on Slesse this year, and Yak is good to go.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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I'm trying to move toward the European perspective that a person's image belongs to them and not to the photographer unless permission is granted. Not quite there, yet.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Rainbows are hard to chase, and hard to climb!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2015 - 10:12pm PT
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Yes they are!!
This attempt wasn't clean...
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mike, what route is this? Black Dyke?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mike, what route is this? Black Dyke?
Yes, and no.
Definitely one of the hidden gems of Squamish, though.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2015 - 07:14am PT
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The same route as Andy posted above. (Hint!) And yes as Dave has stated, the basalt is the exact same vein as the Black Dyke.
It makes so much more sense to start up the crack.. Lol
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Ah, so it IS the black dyke, but NOT the Black Dyke!
Thanks...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Ah, so it IS the black dyke, but NOT the Black Dyke!
Precisely.
It is also a real gem. Well, perhaps not the first pitch, but the second has a cherished place in my memory.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Chasing Rainbows is hidden. We could not find the trail earlier this year. However, the climb is a Squamish Select top 100. And there is an aerial photo showing the trail, which would help if you were coming in from above.
I took a fall Mike, and then had to go up and down several times before finding a way that worked. So many not-quite-sufficient handholds.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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I remember some rather strenuous laybacking at one point on it
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Yes, well, wait 30 years and then see how much you remember.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2015 - 08:12pm PT
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What like when gripped steals your work to boost thier social medial presence only to delete it when you ask to get paid for it?? ;)
Edit
Vvvvvvv
Darn it !
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Squamish Totally Uber-obscura Chimney Klubs' boldest member seen wearing out the knees on his cargo pants and scuffing his elbows...
Edit: baldest not boldest
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2015 - 07:40am PT
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Nice work Andy, Chasing Rainbows is hard!
S.T.U.C.K. Is at it again! What's that thing called Luke?
Tami-dunno, at least a couple layers before you get to the ink i'd say... Lol
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Nice T.U.C.K. art installation. Where do we go to see it? One of those rare photos that is equally believable no matter which way you turn it.
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Jane Gallwey
Big Wall climber
Ireland
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Jul 10, 2015 - 03:28pm PT
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Anybody want to climb tomorrow? My partner felt sick and bailed, we were planning to do Rambles/Snake/Boomstick/Butt Lite but now I'm all on my lonesome and would love to get climbing tomorrow. Want to climb anything!
Cheers,
Jane
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2015 - 08:49am PT
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Did you find anyone Jane??
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Barney Rubble
Trad climber
ALAMEDA
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Jul 23, 2015 - 11:29am PT
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Bump for one of the coolest climbing areas anywhere!
Here's one from BITD when climbers wore beards and wool to stay warm.
Tom Bridge emerging (still smiling) from Perry's lieback.
Is this tree still part of the Grand Wall experience?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jul 23, 2015 - 12:28pm PT
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Nice pics, Barney!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jul 24, 2015 - 07:11am PT
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Thanks for the Squamish photos and stories.
Yes, the abused tree on the Sail Flake pitch of Grand Wall (lite) is still there. It can be avoided by starting a few feet right of it but this is Squamish so you get more credit, not less, if you climb the tree.
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Barney Rubble
Trad climber
ALAMEDA
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Jul 24, 2015 - 08:58am PT
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Tammy - I think you said that in a cartoon about a mythical crag. The leader says in a tremulous voice "It's steep and the rock is all pointy" or some such thing. I'm not exactly sure how the tremulous voice is portrayed, but that's the magic I guess. Still makes me laugh :-)
Here's one from the way back machine, 1980ish? Bill Myers and I are on Exasperator while you and Peter cruise the left side of Split Pillar (with your pinky toes hanging out of your EBs). I livened things up by whipping out of the crack, pulling a nut or two, and taking a big skidder!
Andy - from a very young age it's understood somehow that trees are made for climbing. 8a.nu must award bonus points for that sort of thing.
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maurop
Gym climber
B-dot
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Jul 24, 2015 - 09:39am PT
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Keep those old school pics coming.
Eric, thanks again for climbing with me that night. Getting the onsight on orphan was not easy. Hardcore, old school 5.8! Awesome.
Anyone know this classic? Should be easy to figure it out. Just use the force....
Newbie climbing.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jul 24, 2015 - 09:59am PT
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My first and still clear climbing memory is of starting up a towering sunflower stalk in the backyard of our house in Oklahoma City, 1950ish. I can't remember what happened next but I probably retreated because of the holds being prickly and sticky. Maybe there were ants. Trees were far better to get nearer the sky.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2015 - 11:36am PT
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Wow! The Bear? Hi Peder!
Nice post Eric! Maurop, i recognize the star wars traverse...
Sorry i haven't had much time or stoke to post here lately. Things are looking up, and i'll be getting out again more soon.
Here's another one of Heather on Dierde for now.
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Jul 24, 2015 - 02:44pm PT
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Here's a few shots from a recent trip up this classic mini wall...
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jul 24, 2015 - 03:22pm PT
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Was that 5 July, Synchronicity?
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Jul 24, 2015 - 04:22pm PT
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No sorry MH2 we were July 17-18
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Jul 27, 2015 - 03:41pm PT
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Oh no, sorry to hear the news, was this yesterday or last sunday? When we were up on U-wall 2 flyers went right past us.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2015 - 04:49pm PT
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Ya Sync, Sunday. Yes, a pregnant widow. Very sad.
Edit Really cool pictures man! Thanks for those.
Heather and I got out today...
Guess where?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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That is unmistakably a famous milestone in the history of route-cleaning at Squamish.
A different kind of climb:
Guy who knows Sibylle Hechtel
Sebastien who kindly gave me a belay while Tom went back to the car for his other shoe.
Part of a new multi-pitch. We met the couple who climbed it and they said it was good.
They came past on their way down as I was sliding down the start of Magic Carpet Ride, which seems to have been sprayed with a climber-proof non-stick coating.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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They came past on their way down as I was sliding down the start of Magic Carpet Ride, which seems to have been sprayed with a climber-proof non-stick coating.
That's weird, isn't it. I'm finding the same thing more and more often these days. I'll start up an old favorite climb and...
... Damn! Those vandals have sprayed this one, too!
And Mike, is that High Mountain Woody?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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BB I think David ( ghost ) and I did the first and last winter ascent of that thing. :-0
There was a moment that day when I thought you might be about to set the all-time speed record for the descent of the face in BB's photo. The kind of record that can be equaled, but never broken.
1,500 meters in ten seconds.
Scary sh#t.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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We had planned to marinate the tasty tender flesh with various local roots for extra AZN medicinal power !!!
Oh sh#t. There goes my retirement.
Tami and I were planning to patent that mix of arrowroot and yak dung that guarantees long life, sexual prowess, and the ability to see what is behind Door Number 3.
It would have given us uncountable millions as AZNs, who can no longer afford powdered rhino horn or tiger testicles, lined up to buy our potion.
Now you've gone and spilled the secret on the internet.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2015 - 08:40pm PT
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That is unmistakably a famous milestone in the history of route-cleaning at Squamish.
Lol! Ya! Who was it that cleaned it "after" Robin? ;)
Nice photos Andy! Thanks.
Eric's got a hint for ya Dave. Other side of the road... Oh and you forgot Rutabaga
Nice pics Eric! Looks like you been having fun!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2015 - 10:29pm PT
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Andy:
First three are Local Boys Do Good
Last one is Jump to Lightspeed?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Synchro
UWall may or not be a "mini-wall". It is definitely shorter if you skip the last 3 or 4 pitches up the Roman Chimneys, as you did.
"Bail at Dance, Fail at Dance". :( :(
Cheers.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2015 - 11:58am PT
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Cool Andy! Thanks for the link!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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^^^^
Oh no! Not that one! The first climb I got on in Squamish, and the first climb I didn't get. Still a fine line. I loved it, but just ran out of gas. Lol.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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^ A climb that punches above it's grade. As an onsight, at least.
The video is nice but misleading. For one thing, the sun never shines on The Reacharound. For another, it is more intimidating than it looks in the vid. Here is the part of the video which best gives the feel experienced by many on it:
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COT
climber
Door Number 3
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Nice one MH2!
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Got out on the squaw yesterday.. ten points for naming the route.
crux pitch
easy jamming
top out!
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markr
Trad climber
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Ten points for Jungle Warfare? That climb is seriously underrated I think, lots of fun climbing on that rig.
Also I don't think anyone named Mike's photo of the money pitch of St. Vitus - so good, feels like you're jamming for forever on that pitch.
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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I thought jungle warfare paled in comparison to birds of prey or rock on which are supposed to be other bench mark 5.10-'s of the region.
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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I think the first pitch may put people off.. it's pretty grubby looking, but it's all super clean after that.
Some nice exposure on the 5.8 pitch as well.
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Cyril Sneer
Trad climber
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Anyone know how the Roman Chimneys got their name?
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DBlack
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Can anyone recognize this one?
My apologies as it is about 40min north of Squamish...
Also, I wonder if anyone knows the youngest person ever to climb this little peak (I'm 16)?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Phyllis' Engine?
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Slabby D
Trad climber
B'ham WA
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Phyliss Engine for sure. One of the best three pitch 5.8's you'll ever climb. Like a super remote desert tower in a different sort of desert.
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DBlack
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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You got it. The rock is stellar, but it is probably also the longest approach you'll ever have for a 3-pitch 5.8!
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DBlack
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Thanks for the kind comments, everyone! I thought it was my turn to contribute to this awesome thread. Tami, that is indeed how we did it. I cannot even imagine the glaciers terminating in the lake! They are so far back now:
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Hardly Visible
Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
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Similar shot from about 1985, seems to be some noteworthy recession. I should add that this was from around august 23rd of that year. Annual birthday climbing trip
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maurop
Gym climber
B-dot
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two shots from the same spot in the Duffey area, separated by 2 years almost to the day. Overall ice is the about the same, but the snowcover is far less. There's some ice loss in the middle of the glacier, but this was a month ago, and there's a good 2-3 more months of melting.
This is the same story across SW BC. Many glaciers have been bare for weeks now, and the melting will likely continue into October. The Wedge Glacier is displaying a sinkhole near the snout. Others have meltwater channels cutting quite deep into their surfaces. All a bit gloomy for me, but it has greater implications for future water management.
At least the climbing season has been good!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2015 - 10:34pm PT
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Markr made it official! St Vitus is so fun!
Greg- if your looking for testpieces, Jungle Warfare is not on the list, but it sure was fun when I did it!
Anyone know how the Roman Chimneys got their name?
I will second this question from Rupert!
Nice Photos DBlack! That thing is cool!!
Hi Kev! Wow, lots of ice melted for sure.
Nice pics maurop. Scary times we live in..
Thanks Jim.
Heather and I took the gear for a walk yesterday.. She wanted to get her 10b on.. I suggested that this one might be dry..
It was, but she wasn't feeling it unfortunately.
We chilled for awhile at the base, but Heather couldn't regain her stoke.
We rapped off the tree and I suggested we go look at Seasoned In The Sun.
Despite having been up flake ledge several times, I had never ever laid eyes upon this beauty.
Seasoned In The Sun 10b
Heather still didn't want to lead and I couldn't leave without climbing this rig, so I racked up and went for it.
I haven't been leading that much and anything I have led lately has been super easy so it was quite engaging.
I made it to the number 1 jam and got it in before slouching on the rope. The next section went well, but by the time I got to the headwall I was gassed. I put in a cam and rested on alternate jams while chalking before committing to the crux above.
I set off and managed to get to the half decent foot pocket above my cam as I struggled to place another purple on bad ring locks. The goal was to save the greens for the business above.
I got the cam in but badly and my purchase was failing quickly so I started down climbing to my last piece. "Falling!" I called as my foot popped just above the last cam.
It was quite warm in the sun, and I was working hard. I watched as a bead of sweat dripped from the tip of my nose and vaporized moments after hitting the hot grey slab below my feet.
"Are you getting tired up there?" Wafted up from the ground.. "Yes, I am." Was my reply. "You wanna finish this thing up for me?" I laughed.. "Well i would but I lost one of my contact lenses!" Heather replied. "Ok, No Problem!" I called back.
I rested for a bit longer and brought out the secret weapon I had brought for our original objective. The Metolious pocket aider. A couple moves later I was firmly established on the headwall and I was able to piece my way to the anchor. It wasn't pretty but I got it done, and I got it clean on tr after.
Yes. I used some gear on this one..
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Aug 11, 2015 - 01:09am PT
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Great work on 'Seasoned', Mike!
Sounds like it was a sweet day with Heather, as you continue to move forward!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2015 - 04:07pm PT
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Thanks Wayne! I hope your knee is healing well!
Anders Bum is now '10b? :-D . Hahahaha. Mike when we were brats ( okay , when we were younger brats ) we used to call Seasoned in the Sun "Anders Bum" and ooooooh myyyyyy word, did AO ever dislike that !!! :-D
I knew this was coming.... ;) I am well aware of the nickname, and Anders dislike for it. So i thought I would show him the proper respect, and use the given name. ;)
I also know that Seasoned was originally rated 10a, but Marc has it at 10b in the new select and KM has it labelled in his 2005 guide as 10b on the topo but 10a in the description. I always thought that was his sneaky way of changing established grades..
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Aug 11, 2015 - 04:15pm PT
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Sounds like it's 10a / AO
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2015 - 06:47pm PT
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Lol John. If you climb it like i did.. ;)
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Aug 12, 2015 - 01:20am PT
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Great work on Seasoned, Mike! Really nice photos as well, I must say!
Here's a before and after moment..
from Oct '08
today
Who's got some to share? Please contribute :)
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maurop
Gym climber
B-dot
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Aug 13, 2015 - 08:01am PT
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Are many drones being used at Squash?
I've heard them on various days while bouldering at the base of the grand wall.
But I have no idea if the N Gully was renamed itus....
No before and after photos... unless some of the older folk have them before this route was recleaned. Any guesses?
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maurop
Gym climber
B-dot
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Aug 13, 2015 - 09:03am PT
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hmmm... Tami, you might have me confused with someone else. My brother is not a climber! :)
I'd still love to see some old photos though, this route has a bit of history apparently.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Aug 13, 2015 - 11:25pm PT
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I have always thought that the Roman Chimneys were supposed to resemble a Roman nose???????????????
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maurop
Gym climber
B-dot
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Aug 14, 2015 - 12:47pm PT
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Lol, no worries!
Unless we've crossed paths through other sports I've been involved in, it's highly unlikely. I only started climbing a couple years back.
I've done a lot of reading on climbing in general, and it's amazing to see some of the people I've read about (not just rock climbing but mountaineering/alpine climbing, etc) regularly posting on ST.
It's a pretty small world - it's cool to see how these Squamish stories fit into the history books.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2015 - 07:39am PT
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Thanks Don! Sweet pics!
Thanks Hamie!
Haha Tami has you confused with the Bear!
Heather and I got out to Murrin with Rough Lieback yesterday. He wanted to go check out Woodstock because he hadn't been there yet.
Rolf getting warmed up.
We started early to ensure good lighting.
We had a fun day. Did both 10d's and the new 11a? On the corner between Altamont and Woodstock. Heather led a 5.9 mixed route on the far right of Altamont that was really fun too.
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squamishmonkey
Trad climber
Squamish
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Aug 17, 2015 - 10:10am PT
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Here are a few shots of some climbs folks might not recognize as they a new (ish) to Squamish, but are as good as anything I've climbed here. First pitch is11a splitter fingers, followed by the steep 11c stem corner followed by a 10d flare and undercling pitch. The route finishes with a 5.9 off width and the sting in the tail 11d fingers pitch (No pictures - sorry)
This is one of the new lines on New Dehli Cliff
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Aug 17, 2015 - 07:50pm PT
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Gotta love those clean, new routes going up left and right all around town.. gotta build me up some guns one day with hopes to grovel up some of em!!
In the meantime, twas an active today in the South Gully
A couple 'o parties on a bone dry Mercy Street
Another party were spotted on the new route,
Attack of the Arc'gucci Clones
Yet another pair of keeners were on their way up to try out the Great Arch
The sundog preceded the ten minutes of shoe rubber melting torture
The indomitable Bruce Kay is again rocking on, a mere three months post spinal surgery.. Oh yeah!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Aug 17, 2015 - 08:14pm PT
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That's a pretty busy Monday.
Nice photo and great news of BK on Rock On.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Aug 17, 2015 - 09:53pm PT
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Freakin good news about BK!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2015 - 10:17pm PT
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Wow Don! Thanks for those pics of BK! I saw him at Nesters the other day and we were discussing top rope solo setups. Can't keep a good man down!!!
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Aug 17, 2015 - 10:43pm PT
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Great day climbing Mike, Altamont and Woodstock are fun low commitment places. You must have a special F8 skeletor setting on your camera just for me, really I'm not that gaunt. :-) Quote "we started early to ensure good lighting." Ha Ha!
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Aug 18, 2015 - 11:18pm PT
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Big Mike on how to spend the end of just another work day
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2015 - 08:04am PT
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Thanks Rolf! I think my iphone doesn't like you or something.. I'll have to see if i can scrape up a few non-skeletor shots for ya.. Lol
Don! Last night ruled! Thanks! Gotta run to work. More later
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2015 - 08:24am PT
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When are we going Tami??? :)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 19, 2015 - 08:29am PT
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Mike, yer new movie is killing it at the box office! Congrats!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2015 - 08:40am PT
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Cool Tami! I'll tell sandra.
Which one is that Riles??
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Ryan L
climber
PORT MOODY
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Aug 19, 2015 - 11:50am PT
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Maurop, on the previous page that looks like the 3rd pitch of Slab Alley :)
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Aug 19, 2015 - 07:09pm PT
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Saugy, is that photo Mercy Street?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 19, 2015 - 07:20pm PT
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Mikey, duh, "Straight Outta Squamton!". Yo!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2015 - 10:18pm PT
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Yes it most certainly is Rolf!
Riles, but of course. Whiteys in Squampton, Whiteys in Squampton.
Saugy put Mercy Street on my mind with his Monday night post, then texted me to ask if i wanted to go climbing. So, naturally I suggested it.
I had a long hot day at work and was feeling pretty bagged by the time i got home, but Don was still eager so I got off my butt and headed south.
I met Don in the apron parking lot, and we sauntered up to the base. It was still hot and I was feeling pretty tired by the time we got up there.
We chilled for awhile and I started to get my second wind, and decided I could lead the first pitch.
Saugy on p1 of Mercy Street
Looking up at p2
Saugy got the business pitch.
We partook in a little smoke as we enjoyed the sunset.
What a beauty this thing is!!
It was a fun outing, but both of us still need to go back for the redpoint.
We'll be back up there again soon.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Aug 20, 2015 - 07:13am PT
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Mercy Street is like a tricky combination of Apron Strings and the Pillar. Not steep enough to jam efficiently. Did you guys go all the way up to the undercling bit before the anchor or break out right on the ledge just below? Is one way the right way?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2015 - 09:47am PT
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Nate, ya it is! Don ended up going right to the flake because he squandered one of his blues mid pitch and had nothing left at the top.. I bumped his remaining blue so i could finish up the undercling. Which has a very cool chimney move finish.
It would be nice to have another bolt at the end of the first pitch to rap off, rather than those two ancient looking pins..
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maurop
Gym climber
B-dot
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Aug 20, 2015 - 01:21pm PT
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Maurop, on the previous page that looks like the 3rd pitch of Slab Alley :)
Boom. Nice. You don't win anything though, sorry! Awesome route, the original start is great, and the "elephant steps" are a laugh.
Mercy Street is on the list. Here's to hoping it stays dry into september....
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maurop
Gym climber
B-dot
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Aug 21, 2015 - 08:01am PT
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I don't wanna bogue anybody's high about stuff being dry at Squash and it sure is nice to have dry climbs but Ho Lee Phuck this drought situation is pretty fuct up.
I'd take a week of rain and re-growing moss and biomass over the diminishing water in the local reservoirs, dying trees and arsehole Vancouverites who STILL water their lawn and sidewalks.
Agreed, it could rain for two weeks, and I'd be just as happy. I just want Mercy St to be dry when I try it...
July 2015 was the hottest July ever on record, and also the hottest month ever recorded on the planet since record keeping started. Crazy stuff.
I've heard anecdotal stories from the past, that avalanches used to come crashing down from the summit of the chief, keeping the climbing a bit cleaner. With the warmer winters we've had, and more rain than snow, it seems this is leading to tree/shrub/moss regrowth. Any truth to this you guys think?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2015 - 09:11am PT
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I've heard anecdotal stories from the past, that avalanches used to come crashing down from the summit of the chief, keeping the climbing a bit cleaner. With the warmer winters we've had, and more rain than snow, it seems this is leading to tree/shrub/moss regrowth. Any truth to this you guys think?
While this may be partly true, I think another larger factor is the common fire suppression technique used around populated areas. The average warmer temperatures would give a longer growing season for vegetation too if i'm not mistaken.
Btw i knew it was slab alley but it was too easy so i let someone else get it.. ;)
Nwo- man! I've been pondering the same question!! Which is a huge statement for me. I always buy a pass. Always. Last year shook my faith though and having been here in 97' i might know what this winter is going to be like. Big snowfalls followed by rain.. Or just rain..
Finances will determine the outcome i think. I am still leaning towards pass, just because i want to get back on the board more this season and get my legs feeling strong again, but my rent just doubled since i'm single now, so I need to figure out my numbers...
I usually do spirit anyways so i don't buy it until november..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2015 - 09:37am PT
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Yes it can. Let's hope that it's not.
98-99 was the big year, and that was La Nina which came after the 97-98 El Nino. That's the weather pattern i've been waiting for the last 17 years!!
I still remember sitting on the old Whistler gondola that year, listening to tourists complain about "no sun" while I had a sh#t eating powder grin on my face, and thinking, "if you don't like it, then go the fvck home!"
Btw we have to ride this year. And yes. I promise i won't out you. ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2015 - 10:22am PT
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Ooh let me do it then.. I'm excellent at blowing people's cover.. Lol
Sounds good, he might have more free time when he's home this winter.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2015 - 09:43pm PT
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Anyone else get out tonight??
What climb is Heather on?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 21, 2015 - 10:11pm PT
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I'm on skis though but have upgraded to medium baggy
Yer person or yer sartorial splendor?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2015 - 11:48pm PT
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Lol Jim! You just let me know dude. I can't wait!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2015 - 08:29am PT
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Saugy sent me this recently.
I do believe this my first ever shirtless selfie... Lol
Don Saugy Photo
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2015 - 09:23am PT
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No guesses yet??
Does this help?
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Aug 22, 2015 - 09:58am PT
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Looks like Center Street or route to the right?
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maurop
Gym climber
B-dot
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Aug 22, 2015 - 10:04am PT
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My guess is also Center Street, or maybe the 5.9 route (baby lizard??). The other 10a with 10b extension (behind the climber in BM first post from the other night) is also an exciting route, especially the traverse at the top.
Tami, scary stuff. I was reading the other day about environmental sustainability (broadly defined) and using natural interest vs natural capital. Same basic economic principals that apply to neoliberalism. Interesting parallells that few people think about....
Climbed Hanging Gardens the other night. Had a good laugh at Big Mike's writeup. Solid route, but filling in with debris. I did a little gardening, but for such a great route, it's weird it doesn't get talked about or climbed that often. Need to go back for the red point, but the cruxes are't as bad as they look.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2015 - 10:16am PT
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You gents got it!! Heather was a few feet from the onsight!!
Perry are you available for Psyche ledge this year?? I am looking forward to it.
Maurop, Hanging Gardens never made the book unfortunately! I think that's why it suffered. I laughed at my writeup too. Luke is a powerful motivator.... :)
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Aug 22, 2015 - 11:05am PT
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Big Mike,
Thanks for the timely reminder of the Annual Psyche Ledge gathering on Sept 12.
We'll have to brace ourselves for the withering disapproval of the egregiously territorial pebble wrestlers as they've made it clear, many of them think that area is their turf.
Amazing how the former center of the Squamish climbing universe is relegated to obscurity.
That's why I think the annual gathering is important.
I'll freshen up the Psyche Ledge thread while I'm at it.
Regards,
PB
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2015 - 10:34pm PT
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Whoo hoo! Psyche ledge party and climbing with Tami and Phil!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2015 - 11:56pm PT
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Center Street Bump
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2015 - 10:14am PT
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Here's a couple more bangers from Center Street
Vertical pano
Stretch bird's eye view. I think i need some stilts.
I know a lot of you hate this reverse magazine angle, but hey, they can't all be the same....
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Aug 23, 2015 - 03:13pm PT
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There sure seems to be alot of route cleaning beside Centre Street, very white rock, must be acid rain. The bluffs seem to get whiter every year.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2015 - 03:36pm PT
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Nope. Hevy did a real nice job opening up crag x again.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2015 - 05:48pm PT
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Red nails is a classic now Tami. High Quality 11c. It was even pictured in the new guide. The bluffs are way more popular now-a-days. All this cleaning has opened up some nice old climbs and made it much easier to get away from the crowds..
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Aug 23, 2015 - 07:00pm PT
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Good on Heavy, send him down to Free and Easy crag and Island in the Sky, some really unpopular climbs down there. "This, That and the other Thing" is worth a rescrub, or is that whole area now on private property?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2015 - 08:27pm PT
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I'm not sure where the line is on that one Rolf. I don't think so, but again i'm unsure. I know The Zip definitely is. Island In the Sky has a few lines that look worth scrubbing tho..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2015 - 07:35pm PT
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It was Star Chek Tami, that's Highway 99. Best of luck to them, I posted it on squamishclimbing.com too.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Aug 24, 2015 - 11:06pm PT
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Place thumb on picnic table. Strike hard with piton hammer.
Oh, wait.....nobody has a pin hammer these days.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2015 - 08:28am PT
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Aid climbers typically still carry hammers Hamish.. Freeclimbers generally don't but i bet in the alpine lots do...
The mountains foretold the changing of the seasons again this morning...
I am going to default to my optimistic attitude for this winter. There are so many factors in play right now, who knows what's going to happen!
http://cliffmass.blogspot.ca/2015/09/godzilla-el-nino-versus-blob-who-will.html?m=1
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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BM, I haven't carried a hammer in the alpine for several decades, and I doubt if many others do today. [I still have one for placing bolts and anchors.] If you don't have a hammer, use a big rock or a brick, but be careful. Remember it's their thumb and not your fingers which is the target.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Speaking of hammers...
Squamish Photos, and a Story..
March, 2015
BBZZ’ing goes the alarm on my phone. I jolt upright. My bag is already packed so I focus on mixing an epic bowl of oatmeal and preparing the aero-press while the kettle warms up. As the coffee brews and the oatmeal soaks I use the empty minutes to lighten my load, then I enjoy a smoke with the warm cup of caffeine in the colorless pre-dawn cold of my back porch. Efficiency is key today, no time to waste.
Cormier pulls into the driveway, he already has his helmet on. I throw my bag in the truck and hop in after it and we accelerate onto quiet squamish streets. After we park on the dirt road below the Chief’s North Wall’s we lighten my backpack by a pipeload or two. Light is fast, fast is safe, as they say.
Our bags are not too heavy as we head up into the woods (our rack ends at a #1 camalot, a friend ensured us he had not encountered any cracks bigger then an 2 inches, so we ditched the big gear). The early morning light shows us the way to the base of the cliff, where an ancient fixed line greets us. Harnesses are plucked from bags and we scurry up the mossy rope. At the top a nice ledge is waiting for us, the beginning of the first pitch; the last time I was here it was miserable, three hours of cowering in a small alcove while a waterfall poured down my neck. My partner was at-least moving upwards and did not notice the cold till he reached the top of the pitch. Nearly hypothermic we had turned tail and shivered all the way home.
But now the weather is clear and the rock is dry. I feel relaxed and comfortable and a growing curiosity motivates me to go higher. I leave Luke at the belay as I start up easy ground towards a leaning corner system. The corner system is a mix of good cams and some expanding flakes, one of which I place our only #1 behind. The final 20 feet is a wild time, I place inverted cam-hooks straight up into an ever-thinning flake. Carefully I watch each piece as I wait it and jiggle it until I am happy with the way the steel is bending. Finally I realize how big of a fall I might take if one of the precarious placements pops and I hammer a stubby knife-blade into the thin seam to reach the anchor.
Luke cleans the pitch as I organize the gear. When he reaches the #1 he discovers the expanding flake has pinched the cam and will not release it. Now we have no gear bigger then a 3/4 inch crack, I look up at the looming white roofs and hope we will not be f*#ked somewhere higher up.
The second pitch has long run outs between bolts and requires a steady head. It is Luke's first time back in the aid stirrups in a long time. He carefully balances hooks on the good edges and walks his way into a high step of his etriers, crimping on edges for balance. I smoke cigarettes while he styles the technical crux of the route. As he nears the belay I realize he forgot the tagline, meaning he could not haul our bag. It is not that heavy though so I clean the pitch trailing the bag behind me while he waits. Once I get to the belay I hand him the lead end of the tag-line and he sets off into the traversing third pitch. It’s been 3 hours since we left the ground.
A horizontal crack leads him out left for 30 feet until the crack swoops downwards like a wing tip. As he begins moving down the wing-tip I watch him place his next piece, the cam expands behind the flake with his body-weight and suddenly he is swinging as the flake snaps and slowly but surely accelerates.
“ROOOOCCKK!!!” Luke begins yelling before the record player sized rock is 10 feet below him, I join in and we shout the alarm with urgency. There shouldn’t be anyone below us I think as I watch the flake spinning in the air. It impacts on the tongue of slab that sticks out from the base of the wall and shotguns into the woods. Then I hear screaming, some woman is screaming from where the f*#king rock just hit. Holy f*#k. What the f*#k?? Luke is still in the middle of his lead, no doubt shaken by the close call. In Yosemite: two years ago, a climber we had met had pulled a block off and it had ended in tragedy. I can only imagine what Luke is thinking as he swings in his etrier trying to figure out how to continue on. I scream down into the woods as the woman continues to shout and I can hear a man as well, my mind spins as I try to figure out who is down there and why? I remember telling my friend Hannah we would be on the wall today, maybe it is her and Andrew? I yell down the question. The man below responds and it is not Andrew but another Squamish local who I have met before, he informs us his climbing partner is ok. The block had erupted around them, one sizeable chunk of which had grazed the toque that was on the woman’s head. I could now make out her shouts, over and over, she was excitedly screaming “I’m alive!”.
Yikes.
Luke continues on, finding the supposedly easier terrain after the traverse confusing. I clean the pitch as quick as I can and join him at the belay ready to take over the lead. From above the traversing flake; Luke points out that one can look straight through the back of the massive wing. We can also see that the great white roofs are closer now and I start climbing before I can think about what I might find up there.
The pitch drags on, I play music from my phone and it’s tiny speaker gives some solace. I can hear Luke talking to the people who nearly got squished; they are climbing a free route out left, it’s as if nearly dying from rock fall was commonplace for these psychotic monkeys. Squamish people are awesome. I reach the first bulging roof and spot a bolt over the lip but cannot figure out how to reach it. Over and over I step from my nylon ladders and place my feet as high as I can in an attempt to reach around the lip but I can barely make the move no matter how I adjust my body position. Each time I make the reach I have to pull straight out on a fixed piton, a rusted old relic of the first ascent and I can see where time and water have eaten through the steel that is keeping me attached to the rock. I finally realize I am wasting time so I ask if Cormier has some tape to attach a carabiner onto the end of the hammer. He has a small roll of electrical tape that does the trick and with some luck I am able to clip the bolt. Now that I am over the first bulge the main roof stares into my soul and I make my way up to it and begin clipping gear towards the lip. I look down at Luke and the tagline arcs through the air 30 feet from the cliff until it swoops back to the belay.
(BigMikephoto)
The song ends on my phone and another begins, the atmosphere changes as well and my ridiculous position seems incredibly perfect. I savor the exposure before I pull onto the headwall and make some big reaches between rivets towards the anchor. I arrive as the late day sun wraps around the chief and colors my surroundings a deep orange. A few bolts lead off the belay so I climb till the rope runs out. I only make it 20 feet.
It is 5:30pm, climbing through the roofs has taken 3 hours. Luke cleans the roofs and by the time he arrives at the belay it is dark. Soon after I am lost, the route up till now had been obvious to follow and I begin to feel distraught as I search for the path onwards. The early stages of dehydration have set in and I try to settle my breathing and repair the dents in my mental armor. Upwards and onwards. The only way down is up. I repeat these silly mantras in my head and focus on making upward progress. Place a piece of gear, bounce test, weight it, search for next placement, repeat. I follow these steps until finally I reach the anchor below the last pitch. I pull up only 5 meters of rope before Luke shouts up that there’s no more to spare. Another 55 meter pitch? I am in awe and exhausted after seven hours of sustained and steep trickery.
I desperately haul the bag up towards me, my throat is dry and my tongue feels fat. I do not realize the bags are just below me and they slam into the web of nylon that is connecting us to the wall. I jerk to attention and begin digging in the bag for my water bottle, a half liter is all I have left and it vanishes in two gulps but my mouth is still like sandpaper. The nozzle of Luke’s platypus bladder pokes out of the open bag and I do not hesitate when I take a few sneaky sips, he must have more, I assume.
When Luke joins me at the belay he looks tired, there is one more pitch of climbing above us till we reach Sasquatch ledge. Luke’s lead. He digs out the hose to drink some water but he barely gets a sip before the flow stops. He pulls the bladder out and it is empty. He looks at me questioningly and asks if I drank it. I stammer a confession through a wave of overwhelming guilt. “Don’t you have more?” I ask in disbelief. “No.” he responds. I feel terrible, I thought he had reserves and I didn’t think I had finished the bladder.
“It’s kind of funny, don’t you think?” I ask Luke, thinking back to our ascent of the Leaning Tower when I had pulled a similar move in a similarly desperate situation. Though on the Tower we had found three gallon bottles of water at the summit, the odds of that happening again were slim.
“I don’t really see what’s funny” Luke responds with venom in his voice before climbing away from the belay and his greedy, selfish climbing partner. I am left in the dark with my thoughts as he consumes himself in the pitch. Soon I am drifting off, barely able to keep my eyes open. I position the rope under my head so when it comes tight it jerks me awake so I can feed out slack. The lights of Squamish twinkle far below and Orion’s Belt slowly appears above the Chief. I want to lay down on something flat. It feels like time has stopped, Luke is somewhere out of sight and I hope he can forgive me for my folly. Though at that moment he has forgotten about the water and is tenuously hooking around wide sections of crack that he has no gear for. The final easy pitch has turned into a halfway horror show for him. Thankfully, he perseveres.
“Lead line is fixed!” Luke finally yells down to me and I lower out the haulbag and begin ascending with some relief knowing the rope will lead me to the top. I reach the ledge exhausted to find Luke with a big sh#t-eating grin on his face, I apologize again as I pull up the rope and slump beside him. He passes me the flask of whiskey and I pack pipeloads while we reminisce about the craziness of the day. It is 1:30am, 18 hours since we began climbing. Sasquatch Ledge is only 15 feet wide and more of a long stretched out cave then a ledge, where we sit the roof is only 4 feet off the floor. Rather then try and get down in the dark we decide to take a nap till the sun comes up again so we spread our ropes over the soft dirt floor and fall into a deep dreamless sleep.
When I wake up I can not feel my feet and it feels as if I have stumps below my shins. I slap my calves and stamp around to push blood back into them while we smoke and sip whiskey for breakfast. The unrelenting thirst has dissipated over-night, as had the sting of my water pilfering; it was almost laughable now, almost.
The first 15 feet of the caveledge forced us to crawl on our hands and knees but soon we were scampering along with our backs scraping the roof. The ledge widened and it was possible to skirt the edge to avoid stooping, in the narrow sections we dragged our bags behind us. We continued like this for a few hundred feet until the ledge narrowed into nothing. My cold, tired brain was alarmed. Another ledge continued traversing left but it was 20 feet above us and a short steep wall blocked our path. Luke belayed me as I wandered to the narrow end of the ledge where a happy little bolt ladder was waiting to be discovered. In a stiff and achy sort of way I reached the next ledge and fixed the rope and continued onwards towards Angel’s Crest and our descent route. With some confusion we arrived at the rap-route into the North Gully –a notoriously loose area of the chief– and had a smoke about it, knowing now that we were getting close to level ground. Our combined knowledge and skills allowed us to safely and efficiently descend into the gully, a potentially hazardous zone for a tired wall climber. And soon we were leaving the talus scar of the gully for the soft brown earth of the forest. Our pace was steady and after a few minutes we could make out the road below. Then a voice called out through the trees and a big white dog came bounding up the trail. It was Luke’s dog Xia! And behind the dog was Aislinn, Luke’s lovely wifey. With espresso and breakfast wraps! We all sat in the middle of the trail and Luke and I busily burrowed into the hashbrowns and eggs all wrapped up in a tortilla. After a ciggie and some stories of the adventure the three of us and the dog wandered down to the road arriving at the truck, 28 hours after we left it the day before.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Difficult! Thanks for making the couch here feel so comfortable.
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Nice impromptu TR and photos! Really gets the wall stoke going again
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Nice work on Cowboys and Indians!
It was a toil fest on the FA but an awesome adventure.
The route name was inspired by the fact that we have a Sheriff's Badge on a Chief.
I had tried the route back in the early nineties and returned after a hiatus to complete it.
Fixed the first pitch then climbed to Sasquatch and rapped the route in two bivis.
What was really cool was having Greg Shannon (who did the FA of the original Badge route) and Steve Sutton (who did the 2nd ascent solo) and Steve's gal Angie unexpectedly meet me at the base with beers and help getting the mountain of gear back to the road.
I did the route again with Cozzy pretty much repeating Luke and Brownie's style climbing to Sasquatch in about 16-18 hours and spending the night before the heinous gully descent in the AM.
For what it's worth, in the finest Bridwell tradition several pitches were named.
The traversing 3rd pitch is The Scalping Party.
(Sounds like someone almost got scalped when Luke broke a piece off!)
The flakes up to the roof are The Flapjacks and the roof is the Reservation Overhang.
The final easier upper corners are Where the Buffalo Roam.
While we're on the subject of the Badge, hats off to Tony McLane for linking the Daily Planet through the roof to the upper original Badge route free at 12b for The Daily Universe.
Stellar effort Tony!
PB
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2015 - 11:45am PT
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
THIS!
Is what i come here for.
Excellent tale Kieran! Thanks for that! Even better in written form.
Thanks to Perry too for the FA recap!!
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RyanD
climber
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Yes, great stuff Brownie and Perry! The new free route up there looks amazing. Rumour has it there may be more to come in that area......
It's been awhile and I'm soaked enough here so may as well jump in and share/spray a brownie tale as well instead of being a total stain.
So here goes...
We walked up into the mountains a few weeks ago and climbed on top of a bunch of them.
Then we walked up and around and eventually down some mountain called Pelion until we eventually got to a trail as it got dark. We checked rations which consisted of a salami stump, a pouch of idahoan garlic mash and a 160mg lemon sativa cookie. We consumed in that order and zombie line danced our way down to my car that we had dropped at Sigurd creek trail a few days earlier.
We arrived around 135am and drank a beer then went to the dirty clown. I would not reccomend the filet O fish.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Wooly!
Such composure!
More on-again-off-again (trail?) nonsense:
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RyanD
climber
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Tami,nononono not one day.
Although now knowing where to go I could see how with a bit of preparation it could be done if one was keen and had minimal respect for their joints.
We crossed the river in the afternoon wed via the cable and sauntered up to a bivy on the E ridge of Alpha. Our plan was to wake up early and sleep somewhere on the N ridge of tantalus then cruise down to mags. Anyways, it got real cold. And I forgot to bring the coffee, so it took us a bit to get going the next morning. Alpha was quick, getting off took a bit longer than expected. We slogged around to the E ridge of Serratus and climbed that then decide to chill and sleep at red tit col and go for a big day the next day, which we did. Climbing Dione and Tantalus then descending the N ridge and getting lost following goat trails down the E face before crossing the glacier at the Zenith col then lots of up down until we found a bushwack tunnel that led us up to the SE? Shoulder of Pelion, we basically wandered up and around that thing for a few hours until we finally saw Osa and the drainage that leads to the Morraine that identifies the Sigurd trail. We arrived at my car about 60hrs after we got dropped off on the road by the cable.
We climbed on the rock a lot instead of glacier travel although there were some mandatory crossings and a few moats to deal with, the main one being that under the entire E face of Dione which was extremely undercut. We ended up doing a 150m or so traverse on rock in the moat to the start of the route which worked out well, same for getting down and past the witches tooth and onto Tantalus.
The Sigurd trail seemed to have recently had some work done and is very (possibly too?) well marked.
This was my first alpine route in BC and it was super fun, it was a bit of a toil at one point, but I'm glad we walked in and out of the mountains as well. It made for a nice adventure :-)
Will be looking to chopper in and go sport climbing on Dione next time, yuk yuk
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Sep 13, 2015 - 12:39pm PT
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Does anyone know the deal with the rescue helo out today?
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RyanD
climber
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Sep 13, 2015 - 01:00pm PT
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Thanks Tami for the kind words, much appreciated-it was a really great experience. I don't have any more pics since we had a good flow going and redline batteries on our phones the last day. Kieran might have a few, if he see this maybe he'll post up.
Sorry I missed u guys last night, but Bmacd and a few other hooligans were still about at least when I showed up so we still had a blast, even though I'm scared to go out alone at night now :-)
Can u guys believe how many ppl live in the chief parking lot nowadays lol??!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 13, 2015 - 09:25pm PT
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Extermination Unit Call-Out!!!!!
We were up on Gobsmacking Wall today (yes, if you leave Psyche Ledge early, instead of staying and doing drugs until the small hours of the morning, you can climb the next day) and found one of the Great New Climbs has been taken over by the Vermin Of The Universe.
Nasty little f*#kers with vicious stingers.
Not sure what the name of the climb is -- I think it's Cross-eyed on the wall immediately left of Chewbacca. Crux is written up as exiting the chimney, but right now the real crux is hanging on after you've made the exit move and sunk your hand deep into the jam that should bring you relief.
Which it probably did do in the past, but now what you sink your hand into is a wasp's nest.
So if any of you Sqaumptonites happens to be looking for a good deed to do (you know, to balance all the stupid sh#t you've been doing lately), tie a can of Wasp Death to your harness and get up there.
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TacomaDome
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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Sep 15, 2015 - 08:43am PT
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Made a super quick trip to Squamish this past weekend, weather was fantastic. Made it to the Papoose, can't believe we have never visited this crag, super quick approach and you can knock out a few multi pitch routes.
There were a couple parties on hairpin, so we warmed up on the first 2 pitches of centerfold, excellent! Hard warmup and it took me a few tries to get the first pitch crux. No pics.
After we rapped from the 2nd pitch of centerfold hairpin was open for the taking. It was a nice climb.
Then we wanted to run up mushroom to end the day at the papoose, but for some reason missed the obvious crack and went up mercury vapor instead. Oh well, it was fun.
Didn't get much done on day 2, just a couple of routes in murrin park.
Why do you have to be such a long drive away squamish? Wish I could play on your stone more often!
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Jstod
Trad climber
North Vancouver
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Sep 15, 2015 - 09:10am PT
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Thought some of you would find this short video interesting:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
A drive from H.Bay to Squamish in 1966, condensed to about 4.5 minutes. Some highlights include quick glimpses of Comic Rocks and Murrin Park, and of course the Chief.
I grew up in Lions Bay and remember the wooden bridges but the Britannia Beach mining chutes were mostly gone by my time.
Apologies if this has already been posted!
JS
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Jstod
Trad climber
North Vancouver
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Sep 15, 2015 - 11:25am PT
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Cool Tami.
My first memories are from the early 80's, so a little after yours :). I grew up on the same street as the Wade's, whose sons fell victims to the massive debris torrent that came down Alberta creek around that time.
As a side note, you and I've actually met and I've been in your home! Our mutual friend Chris was staying with you and Phil and I picked him up/dropped him off at your place before and after several ski trips to the central coast ranges :)
Hope you're well!
Julian
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2015 - 05:37pm PT
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Last weekend was super fun. I managed to get out with Tami for a couple pitches. Phil joined us too, and it was a grand afternoon.
We met up and burgers, and it's namesake was free, so I jumped on it. I've climbed burgers and fries many times since my injury, but i hadn't led it yet.
With Tami on the brake, I felt confident, and promptly cruised the route.
Tami pulling the rope through.
Climbing is sooooooo boooooring.. ;)
She absolutely cruised Burgers and Fries, 5.7
Original Tami customized Fire's
After we went over to bilbo baggins, and i managed to convince Tami to lead it!
She cruised it too.
Tami and Phil, chillin at burgers right.
On the way back to the parking lot, Tami wanted to check out Red Nails 11c
Then I suggested we hit up scrubbers new route.
Tami on Kris Wild's new parking lot contribution
Tami getting some.
It was great to hang with Tami and Phil again, and tie in with Tami finally!!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Sep 20, 2015 - 02:24pm PT
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Holy scheisse!
I've never seen it pour down any harder than it's doing right now.
Get out of the creek beds and batten the hatches.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 20, 2015 - 02:37pm PT
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I've never seen it pour down any harder than it's doing right now.
Wow. A look at the radar says it isn't going to stop anytime soon, either.
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TacomaDome
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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Sep 21, 2015 - 04:04pm PT
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Hey Mike, that parking lot contribution is the big newly cleaned open book in boulder gully? I've been wondering about that thing. What's it go at?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2015 - 09:56pm PT
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Ryand- Thanks for that tantalizing tale my friend. Your eye continues to impress me. I'd love to see more of your work.. ;)
Aaron- Yes. I have no idea what Kris named it. It's really fun and can't be more than 5.7. It's longer than 35m, so you can lower your partner then rap to the midway station, or swing over to the triage anchor and tr that.
The Papoose is super fun hey? Hairpin is such a rad route. The second pitch was my first 10a onsight in Squamish. Next time do Centrefold to the top. ;) and do Hanging Gardens too on the far left.
Mushroom is rad, you have to wander down past Mercury Vapour to get to it though.. ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2015 - 09:05am PT
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Wooohooo!!! Squamish alpine start!!!!!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Hey, good! Why are you hiding from the sun?
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Hey Mike! Enjoy the day, and keep them pics and stories coming.. I'm going to be living vicariously through you all for the next while..
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Ouch! Sorry about your kid, tami.. hope he heals properly.
Mine's not so dramatic.. took a bit of a ground fall a couple of years ago, and it didn't heal up so well. Took until now to get to the front of the BC Health care lineup.
In good hands though.. The Foot and ankle clinic at St. Pauls has performed a partial reconstruction of my ankle (as opposed to a full - going to see if that's all I need).
Strange, to go from full activity (albeit with daily pain)to non weight bearing for up to 4 weeks (!)..and no activity for 4-6 months (?!).
And I thought I timed it for the rainy season.. all good, though, the sunny deck feels alright..
So, Mike's on Angels Crest today? Looks that way to me..
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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So, Mike's on Angels Crest today? Looks that way to me..
It would certainly be a perfect day for it.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2015 - 02:06pm PT
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WOW ! No KIDDING Mike !!!!! Seriously early :-) .
Three pitches up at 9 am?? Yup. That's early 4 me.
Hey, good! Why are you hiding from the sun?
Because this one was at the top of my ticklist Andy, and Heather's and I knew it would be dry after seeing how quickly all that water disappeared last week. So, climb in the shade, but first in line so, no distractions or roadblocks until Glenn W snuck by us at the end..
Hey Mike! Enjoy the day, and keep them pics and stories coming.. I'm going to be living vicariously through you all for the next while..
Buddy! I got a whole round coming up tonight. Dedicated to you bro. You told me you were going to get that done at some point.. Glad you got it taken care of and you'll be back outside sooner than you know it bro. Let that sh!t heal.
It would certainly be a perfect day for it.
That it was!! What a day oh my god. So frigging stoked still!!!!
More after work when I finally get to the comfort of my couch..
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Vulch
Trad climber
Whistler BC
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What a great day, and a fantastic bagel with bacon... mmmm bacon. I can't even open doors today without feeling it. Go us!
Dreaming of the couch and Netflix right now. Alas I am staring at a computer screen doing legal mumbo jumbo. Le sigh.
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RyanD
climber
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Good job Mike and Heather! we got up high yesterday too. But not until about noon ;-)
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Glenn W snuck by us at the end..
The Tricouni Glenn W or another? There is more than meets the...
whatever, here.
And definitely Cerberus for RyanD. How did you approach?
edit:
Maybe Glenn Wolo...?
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RyanD
climber
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So wonderful Jim!
Andy- We approached via the Catharsis crack from the base of wrist twister which made it easy to get high quickly, even though you mostly go sideways. It climbs into Cerberus quite well. I thought it was awesome underclinging on great rock, very unique. Climbing on Tantalus wall in general is awesome. Such a cool place!!
Thx Tami ;-D
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Glenn W snuck by us at the end..
The Tricouni Glenn W or another? There is more than meets the...
Can't be the Tricouni one; he's in Portugal and Spain right now.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2015 - 08:13am PT
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Nice work Ryan and Kieran! It looks so crazy up there!! The benefits of climbing hard include starting at noon, and not worrying about the crowds hey?
Ya Glenn you were looking rather chipper when you ran past us! ;)
No, Andy you were bang on with your second guess..
Ok. I promised more, but first, we must go back.
I've been seeing this amazing lady Erin. When we first hooked up, I asked if she'd like to go climb and she said No. So then it became the running gag, and i would ask her simply for a laugh.. :)
After a few weekends of hanging out she was dragged to chek by some friends after a big biking day and they invited me too, since i happened to be around.. That went well so, the next day Erin decided we should finally go climb together..
Since i had never witnessed her climb crack, i took her to clean starts, to see how she would fare.
She looked up at it and says "what are we doing here? Let's go do a multi pitch or something..." Lol!
A lady after my own heart!
I gave her a though run down on basic skills and she passed with flying colours so after lunch we went for a run up Bpeel.
Erin on Banana Peel.
She did really well! We took the spicy variation start, which she had no issues with, and simuled the last easy pitch to boot.
It was a gorgeous day..
Erin and I at the top.
We met up with my friend James and his lovely partner whose name I unfortunately cannot remember, I convinced them that you have to experience the slab walkoff..
Ok gotta get ready for work. More soon.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I've done a headstand on that slab walkoff. Weirdest place ever to do a headstand. :-)
So have I. And I bet we're not the only ones.
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Saugy - So sorry but I hope your recovery is good. Do you have a good physio? Len Chong at Salus Physio is awesome but if I recall correctly,you're on the Sunshine Coast.
Thanks for the physio reccomendation, Tami.. I am back in Squamish now full time for the last year (Sunshine Coast part time..for now). This town's full of great practitioners, I should be in good hands.
If its not the Rugby world cup or surfing ST , then my view is usually this..
So its nice to see the stories up close and personal on my computer screen..Thanks Big Mike and Ryan! keep em coming, all :)
And when the rain falls, maybe we can get some reports from the field ie,Tricouni in Spain/Portugal .. Or maybe thats taking this thread off topic??
Either way, I'll post a couple.. from my last trip south, up until just 3 days before surgery
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2015 - 10:31pm PT
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So have I. And I bet we're not the only ones.
Oh man... How much do i have to pay you guys to pose for that photo??!! ;)
Erin cruised it Tami. I was super proud.
At least you can see the object of your desire Don! I had to settle for a picture of it on my roof!! ;)
Nice photos man. That stuff looks awesome!!
A couple weeks ago Eric called to see if i wanted to get out. I hadn't seen him for awhile and I definitely needed to get some climbing in, so i arranged to ditch work early and tie in with him for the afternoon.
The forecast called for rain that afternoon, and of course as soon as i met Eric at Neat and Cool it started spitting.
I decided to rack up anyways and at least get a pitch in, but of course then the deluge started....
So we retired to some shelter at Chek.
Bearbreeder shoeing up under the Big Show
Eric getting his Savage Beagle on.
The last bastion of climbing in the sea to sky area when it gets wet.
We had a fun day. I think Eric might have a few more pics? ;)
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boozer
Mountain climber
bc
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Hello all, first time here and thought you might like a little quiz. That's me on lead, I think the climb is obvious to Squamish climbers. So... what's the route? Who am I? And perhaps especially hard, who's my partner? These photos were taken by Dan Redford.
Ok, seeing these posted it's nigh impossible to identify my buddy, I'll try an edit.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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So... what's the route?
The route is obvious.
Who am I?
Your identity must be kept secret. The route you're climbing is off limits, so therefore you're a criminal.
If we publish your name on Supertopo, the Krag Kops will be at your door within minutes.
And perhaps especially hard, who's my partner?
You want to out your partner in a criminal act?
What kind of ratfink are you? Maybe we should publish your name.
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boozer
Mountain climber
bc
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Har! Those photos were taken in the nineties. Before your time?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Before your time?
Hmmm. You are new around here, aren't you.
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boozer
Mountain climber
bc
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Ok, here's a better photo of my partner.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2015 - 09:51pm PT
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Nice photos Boozer! I would say you are on Handjive at the lower Malemute and I have no idea who you and your partner are, but maybe my friend Relic might?
Dave you are funny buddy. Boozer, Ghost's been around for awhile.. Perhaps you've heard of climb called Borderline?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2015 - 10:44pm PT
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I thought Clean Crack too? But thought it was more diagonal?
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boozer
Mountain climber
bc
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Thanks Tami. We've met a couple of times, I think we were introduced by Megan Routley. Quite a while ago now. When I lived in Squamish I climbed regularly with Joe Turley as well as a host of other characters. I'm going to stay incognito a little while longer to see if anyone else might recognise us.
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boozer
Mountain climber
bc
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Fried brains, yum! Almost lunch time too.
Yes I know about Megan's history with Peter et al. Love that woman. We shared a house in Nanaimo when we were both at Malaspina College, and then again for one ski season in Whistler with Nicci Code. I spoke with her recently, she's just moved her mother out to Kamloops so she can be closer to her. She's still got her biz with the dogs and lives in Logan Lake in the off season. I'll bet she'd love to hear from you.
No apologies necessary, it was fairly brief.
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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Bumping rain forest tards
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Glenn W #1 wouldn't sneak by you. He'd blast by you like an express train.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2015 - 05:05pm PT
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Of course he would Hamie!
Happy Turkey day everyone!
I've been looking at Angel's photos today.. One more post first...
Not long ago, Kyle and Heather and i got out for a couple pitches after work. I had my heart set on something in the 10- range and S-M's seemed to fit the bill.
Kyle starting up S_M's Delight
Beautiful jamming.
Getting into the fingers.
Getting some gear in before the crux
Heather and i both cruised it, and Kyle put up Sex, a recently rescrubbed Frimer line that apparently doesn't see enough action...
It was fun and we left well after dusk...
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 12, 2015 - 04:18pm PT
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The Lurker and Nina were sighted south of the border today, on their way for a tour of the West. Happy Trails!
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boozer
Mountain climber
bc
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Oct 12, 2015 - 04:27pm PT
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Here's a close up of my partner.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2015 - 08:14am PT
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Sick Wayno! They are going to have an amazing trip!! First time to the Valley! They're gonna plotz themselves!! ;)
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 13, 2015 - 08:53am PT
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They are going to have an amazing trip!!
My sentiment exactly! A month long road trip, first time to the valley and the Eastside. Get you some of that!
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Bin Dur
Sport climber
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Oct 14, 2015 - 09:41pm PT
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Damn redheads.
Who's next - the guzzler . . .
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 19, 2015 - 07:59pm PT
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Greetings from small rock Hell, Happy Roctober, hey!!
'Effin killa' y'all
These pages rock but wreck havoc on my shablet. Cutting out and sending me, into a dismal reup from the home page to the last post then back fifty posts for an hour while the blond prime fox harpy spews phuax noise. .
Then I get to a great part and want tap to enlarge. . .
That works fine,
and I ploutz myself,
that was one large bird of prey?
Thunderbird much?
Then . . .
I swallow hard - hold my breath and tap to return to normal, if that works and I am not sent back to the menu, the page is frozen, and is not responsive.
Then it is button click time and back to this riveting climbing intensive (as it should be)
Rolling kegger thanx for the partay'
Lurker from the other coast thanx for all this stoke!
Pray for mouse
I never see any music - hear?
Sorry Hamie, again & still.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2015 - 11:28am PT
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It's another gorgeous fall day !!
Anyone else out here??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2015 - 01:03pm PT
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Love note in my shoe....
How cute is that!!!?? :)
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Oct 24, 2015 - 01:12pm PT
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Awww!
edit: thanks for the pics.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Oct 24, 2015 - 08:20pm PT
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That is endearing. Must not be a secret admirer though or I'd be left wondering how they happened to find your climbing shoe sitting alone on the ground.
Yes Sir! We were out today Sir! We are not as realtime as you are Sir!
We went timidly where many have gone before.
To our credit, it was cloudy and at times windy and cold.
Yesterday was different.
When this guy started his shirt was the exact colour of the sky. As he went up the sky got darker or his shirt got lighter.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2015 - 02:26pm PT
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Nice Andy! Ya, Erin is really cute with her notes. I love it!
Awesome pics Andy! Looks like you guys had fun!
I don't recognize either of those!
Erin and I got out Sunday afternoon. We had the whole Apron to ourselves! We chose Diedre and had an absolute blast!
Erin on P4 of Diedre 5.8
What a gorgeous day!!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Oct 27, 2015 - 02:34pm PT
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Ah for the good times, Mike.
My photos above are top of Karen's Math, Partners in Crime, and Penny Lane
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Vertical Souls
climber
London
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Oct 28, 2015 - 06:09am PT
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Wow! It looks awesome!!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2015 - 12:54pm PT
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Apparently you do it well too Tami.. ;) sorry i haven't got back to you. I was hanging with E yesterday.
It will be this time of year again soon...
Kyle Koroll photo
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Nov 13, 2015 - 06:10am PT
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Way to look forward, Mike!
In look-back mode:
Kyle Koroll photo
Steve Risse in 1984:
faded slides, bright memories
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Nov 13, 2015 - 10:14am PT
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From Gnome ofThe Diabase
**Greetings from small rock Hell, Happy Roctober, hey!!
'Effin killa' y'all
These pages rock but wreck havoc on my shablet. Cutting out and sending me, into a dismal reup from the home page to the last post then back fifty posts for an hour while the blond prime fox harpy spews phuax noise. .
Then I get to a great part and want tap to enlarge. . .
That works fine,
and I ploutz myself,
that was one large bird of prey?
Thunderbird much?
Then . . .
I swallow hard - hold my breath and tap to return to normal, if that works and I am not sent back to the menu, the page is frozen, and is not responsive.
Then it is button click time and back to this riveting climbing intensive (as it should be)
Rolling kegger thanx for the partay'
Lurker from the other coast thanx for all this stoke!
Pray for mouse
I never see any music - hear?
Sorry Hamie, again & still**
Gnome, I don't mean this in a mean spirit truly. Just so curious. How many tablets of blotter acid have you consumed in your lifetime?
Arne
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2015 - 05:52pm PT
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Great Shots Andy!! Tantalus wall?
Yes, Erin has me looking forward. It's nice to look to the future again!!
Arne be nice buddy...
Anyone off to the stanhope show tonight??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2015 - 11:17pm PT
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You nailed it Jim!! I can see the edge of the pillar on the left. Nice to see you this evening!!
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bcclimber
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Nov 14, 2015 - 09:42am PT
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Hello: I am organizing the Golden Scrub Brush awards for the Squamish Access Society. The Golden Scrub Brush awards are a "awards" show to celebrate and acknowledge the hard work of our local route developers ("scrubbers") wielding wire brushes and mattocks to dig out routes out of Squamish rain forest. Induction into The fellowship of the Golden Scrub Brush is our lifetime achievement award. This year our inductees are Alan Stevenson (hevy Duty), John Howe, and Jim Sinclair. I am looking for good climbing shots and stories of each for our awards ceremony. Historic shots of Jim Sinclair and John Howe (especially with the March of the Kitchen Utensils) would be especially appreciated.
Sincerely
Chris Small
SAS director at large
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RyanD
climber
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Nov 14, 2015 - 10:38am PT
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Hey Chris,
U can grab this one if u want, the ST uploader will compress it so if the quality doesn't work for what u need message me on here and I'll send u a better file.
Cheers
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Nov 14, 2015 - 07:59pm PT
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That's a soul-stealingly good photo of HD.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2015 - 01:45pm PT
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Excellent shot Ryan!
I managed to get out for a couple climbs this morning. I was supposed to hang out with Erin but she had to run to the city, and i ran into relic and nate at climb on..
Relic at the base of Power Windows
Kyle racking up
Kyle on PW
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Nov 21, 2015 - 02:17pm PT
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Ah so bright, Mike.
Is Relic's foot ok for climbing again? Or is that harness part of the graduated back-to-climbing program?
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Nov 21, 2015 - 04:41pm PT
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Hey so, I want to address something, must be a thousand posts back, about Wild Turkey. MH2 showed a picture of it. I stated that I did the FA with George Manson. Perry later said that he was there with me and didn't mention George. I remember noticing the discrepancy and already doubting my recollection...
So, I was just talking with Tom Gibson on the phone and he reminded me that George wasn't even there on that trip. Ad-in for Perry. It's so, um, funny I guess, how we can conflate remembrances. I'm pretty sure that we Poway boys went to Squamish for three straight years from maybe 1978 through 1980. I assumed that because Tom and Rob (Rohn) were busy putting up Freeway that it must have been George that I was with for Wild Turkey. Just want to set the record straight.
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Nov 21, 2015 - 06:34pm PT
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Power Windows, Will Stanhope did a variation straight up the face above the crack .Scaryyyyy runout , has anyone else climbed it? Winter temps would make it the perfect time for runout friction.
Looks like everyone had a great day, I managed a hike to scope out some new climbs, sooo lame! Can't wait to get back on the rock.
Nice photos Mike.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Nov 21, 2015 - 07:48pm PT
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WOW!
I am blown away by this thread, again. Strange and wonderful.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Nov 21, 2015 - 07:54pm PT
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Greg,
Re Wild Turkey.
I remember being there with you and Tom.
I was sure George was with us but it might have been Rob Rohn as he and Tom were definitely a team.
You led Wild Turkey on sight, in shorts, wearing a swami, left side in and didn't even scuff your knees.
Tom definitely followed and I declined.
PB
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 21, 2015 - 10:10pm PT
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You led Wild Turkey on sight, in shorts, wearing a swami, left side in and didn't even scuff your knees.
Didn't scuff his knees? So how can he have claimed to climb it if there was no blood.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2015 - 01:30pm PT
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Wow indeed! Thanks for the memory Grug! Classic tales like that are what i post here for.
Eric and i got out this morning. Temps are excellent today.
What crack is this??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2015 - 04:17pm PT
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Yes Tami. Your location is right on. What is the name?
It's been a gorgeous day.
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The Call Of K2 Lou
Mountain climber
North Shore, BC
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Nov 22, 2015 - 05:50pm PT
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Bilbo Baggins? (taking a stab in the dark)
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Nov 22, 2015 - 06:02pm PT
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Makes me think of Catch Me Quicker but Mike is a break-out-of-the-mold photographer. The shot of Power Windows above is also unusual.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
|
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Nov 22, 2015 - 06:04pm PT
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Mike, nice, gentle light on the trees in that 2nd photo. Most of the leaves on those trees here in the city have already dropped.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2015 - 09:24pm PT
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Ya Jer!! Nice to see you guys getting out with Jefe!!
Have fun tonight Tami!!
Nope Lou, not that far over.
You are correct Andy. I typically do try and show unseen angles of things, but looking up at CMQ, inspired me to capture it head on. Thanks for the compliment!
The light was so amazing Glenn, I simply had to capture it again. I've posted a similar shot so many times, but it's the nuances I like!!
Thanks to Eric for the ropegun and belays!!
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RyanD
climber
|
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Nov 23, 2015 - 02:14pm PT
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Bearbreeders AZN/white man references crack me up. Good to see ppl getting after the conditions. Looking forward to more this week.
I went real Squamish trad climbing a few weekends back with Luke. It might have been one of my first times ever doing so, by the traditional definition at least. Although the retreat did feel somewhat familiar. It was super fun, looking forward to more exploring soon.
Maybe Hamie or Someone knows the area?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Nov 23, 2015 - 03:40pm PT
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Ryan, maybe it's in this area?
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RyanD
climber
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Nov 23, 2015 - 04:33pm PT
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Hahaha Tricouni!!
It could very well be!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Nov 23, 2015 - 04:51pm PT
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That 1962 photo is in the Bullethead area.
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RyanD
climber
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Nov 23, 2015 - 05:51pm PT
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There's definitely some five star tree climbing in the area :-)
Were you guys on an established route in that photo? Or just looking around?
It's an interesting angle as well I'd love to see where you guys were. Such a great shot.
I think this was added on this thread before but I've been creeping on this link lately. Lots of good views.
So cool.
http://gigapan.com/gigapans/110055
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2015 - 02:33pm PT
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Luke and Ryan are going ground up again today!
The rest of the crew is chilling in the bluffs.
Kyle on Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies 11c
What crack is this?
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Nov 30, 2015 - 02:41pm PT
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Awesome texture on that stuff!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2015 - 02:52pm PT
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Chris! Lol! This route is super polished and it's still grippier than most fa's in Yosemite! Lol
Nwo! I saw you on Blackcomb on opening day!! :)
Powder Wednesday? Heck ya! Shoot me a pm. I gotta gig in the afternoon.
Edit
You sound pretty confident about that, mang. Maybe it wasn't you, but people who recognize me as Big Mike usually stop to talk, unlike you who typically just says hi to me and ski by... ;) Lol
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Nov 30, 2015 - 03:25pm PT
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Chris! Lol! This route is super polished and it's still grippier than most fa's in Yosemite! Lol
So it's like the fine silverware; polished from years of use yet still classey! I've been told it's all in the footwork.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 30, 2015 - 05:01pm PT
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I betcha they are goin' ground up in the Caramba Crags area. So much to do in there. I remember when Moorhead Jr claimed straight-faced in a Ripped Mag article that Caramba Crags was a secret classic of Squamish.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2015 - 07:17pm PT
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Friction was excellent today Eric! Looks like we just missed each other!!
Good question NWO. It looks like it's on the other side of the terminals?
I got out with Heather on Saturday too. We met up with Nate, Brianna, Kyle and Nina.
We climbed at Woodstock and even ran in Peder there.
Then Kyle wanted to get on Fligus Cling so we headed over to Pet.
Brianna, Nate and Heather chilling at Pet.
Who is that on Fear of Flying Eric?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Greetings and salutations.
I've survived a vicious work stint and have returned baring photos of some of this summers more memorable outings.
First up we got brownie with his aiders stowed ready to go beastmode on this heinous flare.
I think Jim B. may recall this flare...
Next is Kieran again this time following the 2nd pitch of Lost at Sea, lowering out on to some dubious aid placements.
One of the final pitches on Sunset Strip
Me Contemplating the roof at the top of the Golden Throat Charmer
Kyle on a new route we did this fall, Sunday Drive 40m 11b
My office/rest set up from the pique of the recent work stint.
Too much work can lead to peerannoya.
Glad to have some respite from the barely tolerables and to be spending some time around the ranch.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2015 - 01:49pm PT
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Great photos indeed Luke! Thanks!
It also appears that i forgot to thank Ryan for his excellent contribution. Thanks buddy! Nice to see you guys having fun!!
An unfamiliar angle of a familiar subject.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2015 - 10:53pm PT
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I got a few more decent shots from yesterday.
Kyle getting started on Teenage Girls, with Chris at the reins.
Clipping the second bolt
Kyle jumped on Jangling Ball Wall 11b next.
The friction was so good, his toque stuck to the cliff...
Sacking up for the mantle. This move is heinous and feels super insecure.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2015 - 11:48am PT
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Eric- It would be pretty awesome to shoot Heather on Over 40 with Dave H at the belay!!
Tad- you are welcome. Glad you enjoy it! :)
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Hey Gnome
I've been away for a while, and am now catching up on this thread. Always a priority. I see that you have said "Sorry" twice. I have no idea why you would be sorry, but apology accepted.......if you buy me a beer if we ever connect!
RyanD Ha...........Ha...........Ha.......... :)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 15, 2015 - 09:11am PT
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So, there is a story behind this packet of 'tches I found on my desk. It
involves MTV, Nelson Bunker Hunt, a sh!tload of silver, and a lost weekend
at Whistler that Ray Milland would be proud of. Sounds like a Warren Zevon
song, eh?
This joint still there?
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Dec 15, 2015 - 09:38am PT
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Long gone...
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RyanD
climber
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Dec 15, 2015 - 09:38am PT
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Definitely not Reilly!
What was it located near?
Some nice pics on that last page.
But I assure you that jangling ball wall is 11a. No harder than werewolves or partners in crime.
I thought it got its name because it looks like a scrotum of granite hanging off the wall. The fall is definitely jangly on the balls but I don't think hitting the ground is a problem unless you mess something up with the gear.
A great variation called "left nut" climbs to the base of the balls and traverse left to a thin little shelf where you execute a tricky mantel, place a yellow alien and layback up a little seam to join in with the bolted barley finish of JWB. You can see it in Mikes last pic of Kyle. It's an awesome winter route, maybe a tad harder than JBW.
Another variation that I don't fully understand starts further left on "short people" and is much more difficult and runout called "ball shorts".
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 15, 2015 - 09:45am PT
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What was it located near?
Dood, I told you it was The Lost Weekend. I think it was near a chair lift. ;-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2015 - 10:07pm PT
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Merry Christmas everyone!! Riles, never heard of that place. Was it in creekside? Sounds like a blast!!
Ryan- Me get a grade wrong?.. Never.. Lol ;)
Sweet pano Don! Hope you had a great day!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 26, 2015 - 10:59am PT
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ajamunro
Social climber
BC
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Happy New Year!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2016 - 08:20am PT
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Beauty pics guys and gals and Happy New year!!
For anyone wanting to climb in the mountains this is your chance!! It'll be t-shirt weather at Spanky's wall today!!!
Ryand on Finestone Cowboy 11d
Kyle on Blister in the Sun 5.9
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Why would you climb on a sunny pinncle when you could be shivering your way up thin ice on Fluffy Kitten in the shade all day ??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2016 - 05:02am PT
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Because some of us enjoy warm rock Dru... ;) Ice climbing is fun tho.. I just prefer the "security" of rock. ;)
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TacomaDome
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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Jan 20, 2016 - 04:35pm PT
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Any ideas on what might be dry enough to climb this sunday (1/24)?
Two climbs I would like to do:
Great Game
Bulletheads East
Do they dry quickly? Other suggestions?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jan 20, 2016 - 04:49pm PT
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Well now,
as always ya' all are the finest examples of best of the taco. . .
I'm only here but once in a blue moon - today is big mikes Birth day,
So I thought it time to get full value out of my time at the Taco stand and this thread never disappoints !
Hamie way back . . . the 1st PM, I received was that short missive from you.
It was a delight in its brevity and directness. on 9/30/14
Gnome
Please delete your silly post, #7991 on Big Mike's "Squamish Photos and Stories" thread.
Thank you,
Hamie. This was in reference to my attempts to fight a spam attack that started while I was posting,
so I just did drive by bumping, any thread with pages helped?
Anyway I would be proud to share a round with any of ya.
It is a standing offer, not that it is worth much but you never know,
Please feel free to contact me in small rock hell about anything at all.
gnomeofthediabase@gmail.com
GO GO GO - COW POWER
#8456? Seems like I try - But I don't look at the numbers
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RyanD
climber
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Jan 20, 2016 - 04:53pm PT
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Good luck.
I'm pretty sure both those climbs are soaked. Bullethead E is only a 5 min walk from the car so might be worth a look, but.....
If its windy though, and you just have to multipitch, you might get lucky slabbing your way up the Bulletheads via women in comfortable shoes, xenolith dance, & ride the bullet at which point you can scramble down the sketchy handline or go up I think it's called moonwatcher 5.9? And walk up along the top of tantalus wall until you join the belly good trail. All quality pitches that link up nicely and dry real quick if there's a breeze.
+ quick draws only!
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Jan 20, 2016 - 04:55pm PT
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Detailed Forecast ..calls for wet cracks all around.
Tonight Cloudy. Rain beginning this evening. Amount 20 mm. Low plus 3.
Thu, 21 Jan Rain at times heavy. Amount 50 to 70 mm. High 6.
Night Rain at times heavy. Low plus 5.
Fri, 22 Jan Cloudy with 60 percent chance of showers. High 7.
Night Cloudy with 60 percent chance of showers. Low plus 3.
Sat, 23 Jan Cloudy with 40 percent chance of showers. High 7.
Night Cloudy with 40 percent chance of showers. Low plus 2.
Sun, 24 Jan Cloudy with 30 percent chance of showers. High 6.
Night Cloudy with 60 percent chance of showers. Low zero.
If we get some wind and a bit of sun, then by Sunday you might be able to do some face climbing on the Malamute or something..
Edit..good call on the Bulletheads, another wind exposed zone
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 20, 2016 - 05:47pm PT
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A viable wet weather option: Mercy Me. Can be approached by the Flake Trail as described in McLane or Bourdon guides. I once did both pitches in light rain with Oplopanax. I am pretty sure the first pitch would be fine in heavier rain but don't recommend the second pitch. It would be easy face climbing with all the vegetation killed off by heavy traffic and the shoe rubber on wet rock friction is good. A fun excursion.
For crack climbing, the first pitch of Sentry Box might be dry enough.
I have an idea that the upper Black Dyke might be doable in rain, but haven't tried it.
I would stay away from Great Game and Bulletheads East but if you can get off the ground on Exasperator, the rest should go, too.
It doesn't have to be fun to be fun, as someone said.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 20, 2016 - 05:59pm PT
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Good point, Jim, but pretty sure the liver is in the lower part.
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RyanD
climber
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Jan 20, 2016 - 06:16pm PT
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Upper black dyke definitely doesn't work after heavy rain, perhaps during a summer or fall storm but I think there's a waterfall on the roof starting the third pitch that rinses the first 2 pretty good, we experienced this during a march ascent one year. Above the roof it wasn't too bad.
Be aware that this time of year that off bellygood or anywhere on the base of the wall comes with the opportunity to test the law of averages with falling ice chunks currently. I tested it yesterday while out for a stroll so the odds will be a little lower for the rest :-)
I have a theory that the fastest drying single crag in Squamish may be Woodstock
Of course there's always that other pile of blobs of granite that cooled just NE of downtown.
You'll see this guy there for sure.
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TacomaDome
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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Jan 21, 2016 - 09:21am PT
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That should teach me to look at US weather reports for BC. Yesterday I saw only a 10% chance of rain both saturday and ssunday, so I got my hopes up. Oh well, I may just go skiing instead.
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Presto
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 21, 2016 - 10:43am PT
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Yesterday I saw only a 10% chance of rain both saturday and ssunday, It's a typo. They forgot the other zero.
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Ryan L
climber
PORT MOODY
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Jan 21, 2016 - 11:20am PT
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Freezing level is a bit high for today's storm so I'll probably go try and find something dry at the Smokebluffs on Saturday instead of skiing :)
Anyone know how fast the Malamute dries out?
-RyanL
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Jan 22, 2016 - 04:45pm PT
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This afternoon, post rainstorm..
Sun is on the Bulletheads, Malamute, Papoose.. Its also shining on the Gobsmacking Wall.. some great climbing up there. Man of Leisure is a fine route,mostly a face climb.. could be worth a look
Sun in the forecast now for tomorrow.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 22, 2016 - 04:58pm PT
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Beautiful. Looks like Shannon Falls is in spate.
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Ryan L
climber
PORT MOODY
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Jan 25, 2016 - 11:44pm PT
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We unfortunately got stuck in that traffic mess too, they closed northbound 5-10 minutes before we got to Lions Bay
Ended up escaping and went climbing at Lighthouse park instead. It was alright, we made up a silly traverse line around the entire Juniper Point from one side to the other. It goes at 5.10a, optional gear belay on a nice ledge midway makes splits it into two pitches 5.8 and 5.10a. I am sure someone has climbed it before but I shall call it "The Scenic Route" :)
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 26, 2016 - 08:09am PT
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Scenic it is.
A bouldering line:
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 26, 2016 - 08:42am PT
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w00t for Lighthouse bouldering
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2016 - 07:30am PT
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Aaron- nice work on being hopeful. As you can see, there are options during winter, but the bigger objectives are typically not viable. Come on up for some cragging at the bluffs next time the sun comes out!
Nice pic of Al, Ryan!!
Sweet pano Don!
Eric and Ryan L.. Too bad about the highway.. Too many accidents this year.. :(
Thanks for the writeup about your lighthouse day Ryan L and sweet pics Andy and Dru!
Eric is always getting after it. Nice work getting out buddy!! I've been in winter mode but i have been getting into Ground Up a bit and I got out to Cliffhanger with Andy last week!
Ground Up is super sick. It's about time Squamish got a gym!! I'll shoot some pics for you guys tonight when I go with Erin. :)
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Ryan L
climber
PORT MOODY
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Jan 27, 2016 - 09:47am PT
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Here's a picture from Saturday at Lighthouse park doing the "Scenic" traverse. It's hard to see the rope but it's there :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2016 - 09:57am PT
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Sweet photo!! Is that your handywork ryanl??
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 27, 2016 - 10:22am PT
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A gym called Ground Up? That's awesome.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2016 - 12:19pm PT
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Thanks Tami! Glad you like it!!
Thanks for the book! It turns out i have 2 copies now! Lol!
That's ok! One of them sports a Tami Knight original sketch!!!
Justin- yes. It's so rad. Wait till you see it! The place is focused on leading! :)
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Ryan L
climber
PORT MOODY
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Jan 28, 2016 - 09:26am PT
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Yep that's me, my belayer snapped a few sweet pictures.
Forecast is unfortunately looking like rain for the next two weeks. Back to skiing I guess!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 28, 2016 - 01:46pm PT
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Back in the day (the good old day that is) we had trouble keeping moral up during bouts of wet weather climbing due to soggy doobies and non functioning lighters.
Now with the advent of pocket vaporizers there should be no reason not to climb the apron on 50+mm days..
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 28, 2016 - 08:00pm PT
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there should be no reason not to climb the apron on 50+mm days..
Wouldn't want to find the asylum vacant.
Crazy is good.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 29, 2016 - 11:59pm PT
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"The cracks were greasy throughout, and the leader wore stockings."
FA Chimney Route on Cloggy, by Kirkus and Edwards, 1931.
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RyanD
climber
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Jan 30, 2016 - 09:52am PT
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Hey all, if u got an iPhone and go to the App Store u can get a free beta version for the next week or so of the smoke bluffs guide. Hevy Duty and Erica have been tediously arranging it for quite some time. It's called Cragger.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2016 - 08:37pm PT
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Ryan L, who is your partner that took such a fantastic photo?
Luke! I wish i could read that tale brownie wrote again! I seems to be lost to the ethernet..
Tami! I loved that story too! Thanks for the telling! :)
Andy! Sweet photos man! Thanks
Hamie- nice description of the days of yore.
Ryand- cool!! It wants me to upgrade to ios 8 tho. :(
I promised some pics from Ground Up the other night.. So here goes.
Lighting is interesting for panos
I finally redpointed the red route.
Derek Wolgar photo
You can't really tell but this wall is super overhung. Check out my body position.
Derek Wolgar photo
Big Mike rocking the green corner.
Erin Effie photo
The Tower
The Overhang
Gym Pano
There is a bouldering wave upstairs.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Wow, another Smoke Bluff app. It'll be interesting to compare it to the one from Marc Bourdon at QuickDraw publications. I think that one is built on the rakkup app, and can do apple or android. There's a third person working on a guidebook app in town too. Competition makes the best product!
K
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RyanD
climber
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Scrubber,
Hevys app straightens out a lot of info- and for now at least makes heads or tails out of all the new routes in the bluffs. For instance I always thought the route he put a pic of on the cover that I posted above was called house arête or paint it black- FA Sonnie Trotter.
When I look on the app though I see this, lmfao!
Is someone else making a guide as well besides Kevin?
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Is someone else making a guide as well besides Kevin?
I meant that a third party besides Heavy and Erica, and Marc Bourdon was putting together a Squamish climbing app. I have no idea if Kevin and Andrew have any intentions along those lines.
The only current print guides are:
Marc Bourdon's Squamish Select and Squamish Bouldering
Robin Barley's Squawmassif - A Scrubber's Tale
Kevin McLane's Canadian Rock
And the out of print 2005, plus eagerly awaited new edition of Kevin McLane and Andrew Boyd's comprehensive A Climber's Guide to Squamish
(Hard to believe it's been 11 years since the release of the last complete guide!)
Tami - Love the Rosebud story! It does sound a bit better than Browneye, or Backdoor ;)
K
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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No particular idea to push here, other than to get some climbing back on the front page.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2016 - 10:12pm PT
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Is that canadian compromise Dave??
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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I second that vote for more climbing content!
In search of historical content with Anders:
Amazing to be in near vertical terrain where both upward progress and falling are nearly impossible.
Likely the first bolt ever placed in Squamish. The first of three from the FA of the Squamish Buttress.
Bomber belays:
Spotless Granite:
A grand adventure was had by all
K
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mmm, looks tasty,
The thing I'd like to know is how you guys get the rope up there?
And for the love of all things holy wash your hands after al that yucky plastic pulling.
That kinda dirt causes the 'Cruds'
Hee hhee hee
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mmm, looks tasty,
The thing I'd like to know is how you guys get the rope up there?
Oh, that's easy. When a tree is very small, we tie one end of a rope to it. Two or three years later, when the tree has grown to be fifty or sixty meters tall (vegetation grows fast at Squamish) we've got a "rope up there."
Plenty of that in northwest Washington, too.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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M is for MUD!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Yup. Kris gets what climbing is about.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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I think it has more to do with not losing what's left of my sanity during the winter here. Somehow jumaring with a chainsaw seemed like the right thing to do yesterday...
"If you can't climb, then make more climbs!!!"
K
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Wow! You'ld never guess that the Squamish Buttress sees about a million ascents a year.
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DBlack
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Hey, the weather looks great on Monday. Do any of you know if the rock is dry/ going to be dry on Monday?
Cheers!
David
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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You'ld never guess that the Squamish Buttress sees about a million ascents a year.
Well, the upper half of that route does. But the lower half has seen only a few ascents since it was first done in May of 1959. The 1964 guidebook may have incorrectly indicated the original start to the Squamish Buttress as what we now know as the route South Arete. Accounts of the climb in the Alpine journals of the day put the route much further left. Just to the right of The Terror, in fact. The written description of the FA matched what we found fairly closely for about two thirds of the thrash. After that there are simply too many similar choices to know exactly where they ended up.
Originally the entire righthand ridge of the South Gully was known as the South Arete (including Squamish Buttress). The North Arete is what we now call Angel's Crest, and the North-north Arete is, well, still the North-north Arete. :)
K
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Thanks, Scrubber. I've been interested since Anders' post about the FA and what you've added is much appreciated.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Grub Street: Also a term used in England for its notorious gutter press. Another obscure foreign usage.
Rosebud: When it was first done, I asked Tami if it was named for the sleigh in Orson Welles' "Citizen Kane", which is something of a focus for the famous movie. She hadn't heard of it before.
South Arete/Squamish Buttress: Many thanks to Kris and Reuben for the company on our search in 2014 for the lower half of this climb, which with the likely exceptions of Hamie, Tricouni and Fred B, no one else knew had been lost in the first place. Careful reading of the 1963/64 Baldwin guide, the 1965 coast range guide, and Glenn's 1967 guide, and information from Hamie about his and Jim Baldwin's second ascent in 1962, indicated that there was an inconsistency, and some time with binoculars and photos showed a possible route. And we pretty much found it, on perhaps the second (intentional) ascent of the lower half of what is now Squamish Buttress, 45 years after the first. (It in fact correlated quite well with Glenn's 1967 guide - perhaps he got information from Fred.) It involved some serious bushwhacking, as in "even Kris wouldn't clean it" bush, maybe "even Ghost wouldn't clean it". Still, it's part of the history of climbing at Squamish.
The chronology is:
1959: First ascent of South Arete, by Fred Beckey, Hank Mather, and Don Claunch (Gordon). They did it over two days, first the lower half, then deking into South Gully and a comfortable bivy in town, then the second half. (Hank knew of the access to South Gully from two years earlier.) They stopped at the base of the last hard pitch and made a fire to cook lunch, almost causing a forest fire. The first route apart from the gullies from bottom to top.
1962: Jim Baldwin and Hamie made the second ascent, via what we now call South Arete, then a connecting line left of the Baldwin Ledge called Pioneer, then the upper half. As Kris said, the upper part of the lower half of the buttress could follow multiple lines - we had quite an adventure. Not a place for novices or the faint of heart.
1965: Hamie and Tim Auger did the first ascent of The Terror, the big overhang on the lower right wall of South Gully - which happens to end where it intersects the ramp of the buttress, at a discontinuity. A rather airy spot.
1966: Hamie and Bob Woodsworth did the first ascent of the Bastille, a bit further up South Gully. The line that Kris, Reuben and I did briefly intersected Bastille, and at the top perhaps Pioneer. Half or more of the line of what is now called "Rock On" is in fact Bastille.
(I wonder where the "French Revolution" names came from?)
I don't know when the third ascent of Squamish Buttress was, but by the 1967 guide, that was what it was called, with South Arete separately described. (Also, some years ago, several bolts were added to the upper slab of South Arete.)
Kris and I have plans for the area, and he's been working very hard - thanks! However, we decided to leave the original line of the lower half of Squamish Buttress as it was, to preserve some history and adventure. Not everything needs to be erased and replaced, and not everything new is better.
It is sadly amusing that we collectively misplaced what might be called the first "real" climb on the Chief, for decades. Geographical embarrassment... And the rush to scorched earth cleaning tactics, convenience and retro bolting, and renaming of routes doesn't always allow for history and perspective.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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I just moved the teenagers off of the iMac,
when I do that, this is where I go 1st,- to this thread,
wow woe wow , wow!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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MH asks about the French Revolution names. On the 4th/last pitch of Bastille you have to climb beneath a massive chock-stone. We likened this to a guillotine blade, and the whole feature became Bastille after the infamous French prison.
A few years ago we named a climb near Scottie's Marina "Madame Guillotine" after a very large mostly detached flake in the middle. We called the one beside it "Marie Antoinette".
This photo shows Bob W belaying at the top of the 3rd pitch of Bastille, on the FA.
This photo shows an unknown climber starting the first few feet of Rock On. The 4th pitch of Bastille follows the crack system above his helmet.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2016 - 12:21pm PT
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Looks like i missed a bunch of stuff on here this weekend!! I have to catch up!!
I'm hanging out with Bearbreeder and the infamous Jesse James this morning..
What climb is Eric on?
Jesse James on the same rig.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Too easy, Mike, though I don't remember ever seeing the sun on that.
Health and good wishes to Mighty Hiker. Somehow the South Arete got lost, not easy to do right next to Calculus Crack and St. Vitus', but it is an outstanding line.
edit:
And the history of The Bastille is fascinating. If climbing history is any guide, most of my time in history courses in school was probably wasted.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 10, 2016 - 10:22pm PT
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I want a bigger " name that route" challenge!
K
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Feb 10, 2016 - 10:41pm PT
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cool trivia.
The "Sentry Box Move' was key on Crack 'Up.
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Hoser
climber
Vancouver,Rome
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Feb 10, 2016 - 10:45pm PT
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Wow the infamous, so he didn't get chased out of town...
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 10, 2016 - 11:40pm PT
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Bears an uncanny resemblance to "Artificial Land".......
:) :)
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Ryan L
climber
PORT MOODY
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Feb 12, 2016 - 12:39am PT
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What an awesome weekend, Monday and Tuesday were so unbelievably warm. Now we wait for the next weather window :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2016 - 05:01pm PT
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Thank you Kris and Anders for those amazing buttress contributions!! Beauty pics, Dave, Andy, Eric and Ryan!! No time to comment now!
Here are a couple more pics of Eric's 12a attempt.
The backstep
Entering the box
Exiting the roof
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 13, 2016 - 09:22am PT
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Tami dropped me fifty feet off Sentry Box.
Of course, in doing so, we saved Canada and got (temporarily) rich.
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Ryan L
climber
PORT MOODY
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Feb 14, 2016 - 11:07am PT
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One of the sections in the Trad Climbers Bible has Peter Crofts story of him sending Sentry Box (pg 243):
"Sentry Box was the hardest free climb in Canada. It was first freed by local hotshot Eric Weinstein at 5.11 and first repeated years later by Californian Bill Price, who upped the grade to the mystical 5.12 standard. By the time I finally attempted the climb, Eric had been gone for some years and nobody after Bill had even pawed at the thin finger crux."
There are two pretty cool pictures along with the story, one of him coming out of the "Sentry Box" and one of him at the top thin finger crack crux.
Definitely worth a read if you have the book on hand :)
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Feb 14, 2016 - 09:55pm PT
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I never knew the name of that climb, Sentry Box. Did it without any idea. Thought it was about as hard as it looked from the ground, 5.11 ish. I had a blast that week, no guidebook, just climbing what we found that looked good. Did zombie roof the next day, second try after watching some Germans flail on it.
Also did that route that starts on "Milk Run", up to the cedar tree belay under a roof with some old boots. Sent the roof and traverse, trying HARD. What's that called? Would have stayed longer, but the beer in Squamish is too pricey.
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RyanD
climber
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Feb 15, 2016 - 08:50am PT
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F freed tantalus wall?!
Solid spray.
Sentry box is still considered 5.12, but only for about 5 or 7 feet.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Feb 15, 2016 - 10:46am PT
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Tantalus Wall, that is a cool name. Spray alert, what's that one rated? In Canadian ratings?
I had more fun on the Tantalus wall than the Grand wall. I found it to be more interesting climbing, IMO.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2016 - 04:09pm PT
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So little time to post these days.. :)
One more of Sentry
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 15, 2016 - 05:30pm PT
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Love seeing those old pictures. I remember feeling on top of my climbing game and being totally shut down on Sentry Box. I think of a Eric a lot for somebody that I never really knew.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 15, 2016 - 06:13pm PT
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Good coverage of Sentry Box, Mike.
F, Tantalus Wall is mid 11 except for that traverse above the roof at the cedar. Could you tell us how that compares to other bolted face climbs you have done?
And Eric Weinstein. From Darryl Cramer who went to school with him I gathered that he was unusual but for me anyway he is one of those people about whom there are many unanswered questions. And when I pause to think for a moment, there is much I wonder about myself, too.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 15, 2016 - 06:35pm PT
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If I get a terminal cancer diagnosis, I'm moving to Vancouver so that I can climb at Squamish and hang out with you guys (and Tami). Really, I can't explain it, but I got a thing for you Canadians (also Canadiens). Darn, fool country.
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Feb 15, 2016 - 09:55pm PT
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Quote And when I pause to think for a moment, there is much I wonder about myself, too.
Ha ha , Andy. The more climbers I meet , the truer that quote.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 16, 2016 - 08:40am PT
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Congratulations, Rolf, on the occasion of the appearance of Knucklehead Crag on the VIMFF poster.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 16, 2016 - 08:53am PT
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BIG MIKE WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON WITH THE ROPE DOWN BY THE BELAYER IN THAT LAST PIC
??:o
if my rope fragmented like that I'd suspect liquid nitrogen
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Feb 16, 2016 - 09:45am PT
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MH2-
I'd say .12c? I was hanging on for a long time to climb that short traverse out the roof. I'm not very good with numbers. What does that work out to in Canadian ratings?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Feb 16, 2016 - 01:38pm PT
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The first 5.12 at Squamish, and so probably in Canada, was the left side of the Split Pillar, done in autumn 1975 by Nic Taylor and Peter Peart. It wasn't widely known about for several years afterward.
Eric, belayed by Dave Vernon, did Sentry Box in June 1976.
He originally called SB 5.11, or perhaps "hard" 5.11 - the grade wasn't usually subdivided until the late 1970s or later. By then 5.12 was acknowledged to exist at Squamish, and SB was regraded, probably after Bill and Peter's ascents.
Edit: I believe that the first claimed 5.12 in North America was Hotline in Yosemite, in 1975. In retrospect, and allowing for grade and area idiosyncracies, the first 5.12 was likely years earlier.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 16, 2016 - 02:00pm PT
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Nice to see some action on this thread. Lotsa good pix. Deal.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 16, 2016 - 05:48pm PT
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The memories are coming back. I distinctly remember thinking that I would probably never climb 5.12 after failing on Sentry Box (in maybe, 1978). For the most part, I was uncannily prescient. Nothin' wrong with 5.11.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 16, 2016 - 06:45pm PT
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A 12c rating for the roof above the cedar on Tantalus Wall is probably good enough for practical purposes. The '92 McLane guide says, "11c or easy aid." The 2005 McLane says, "It is uncertain if the pitch above the roof has ever gone entirely free." The 2005 guide rates the pitch 11a + 4 pa or 12? The Marc Bourdon 2012 guide calls the traverse 11a A0 but goes on to say, "This pitch has supposedly been freed at 5.12a."
I once had a look on top rope from my partner who had aided through. It looked too hard for me.
We must remember, though, that P. Croft did the FFA in '82, so maybe 12c in Canadian is, "not bad for 1982."
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 16, 2016 - 06:54pm PT
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A 12c rating for the roof above the cedar on Tantalus Wall is probably good enough for practical purposes.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Feb 16, 2016 - 07:01pm PT
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Sounds good to me, eh?
I probably put a .12c effort into 12a climbing I reckon. Very fun route for me. I thought every pitch had good climbing on it, with lots of variety. The thin face climbing and old ass bolts was classic. Great positions, especially when you look at your partner chilling on the tree belay in space.
And yes Ghost, style matters. My partner had such a hard time following and got super pissed. Blamed it on his shoes and chucked them off the top in a fit of rage. I think the price of beer had something to do with his angst, because he was a great climber
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 16, 2016 - 07:05pm PT
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You traversed BELOW the roof. Pretty good idea considering there seems to be a crack, there.
And what is it with red? Didn't Freud have something to say about that?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 16, 2016 - 07:42pm PT
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And yes Ghost, style matters. My partner had such a hard time following and got super pissed. Blamed it on his shoes and chucked them off the top in a fit of rage. I think the price of beer had something to do with his angst, because he was a great climber
As you will see if you enlarge the photo I posted, I was able to cruise the roof in style because I was wearing Adidas running shoes, of about 1975 vintage. (Not to mention the most stylish-of-the-day wool knickers and red wool socks.)
Your partner probably made the rookie mistake of selecting his shoes (and other clothing and accessories) based on their supposed "performance characteristics" or some such nonsense. Experienced climbers know that this is not only irrelevant, but even counter-productive. What counts is not some techno-babble about friction coefficients, or moisture transportation, but how cool you look.
Perhaps you should consider a different partner if you want to tackle more serious climbs.
Edit to add: Seriously, dude. Look at the photos Andy posted above. Or google for images of "Gaston Rebuffat" Should tell you all you need to know about hard climbing. Here's an example:
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Feb 16, 2016 - 08:15pm PT
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My partner was sporting a titty ring and a scorpion tattoo. The shoes were his girlfriends. He got them mixed up before he left home.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 18, 2016 - 10:20am PT
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SQUAMISH FACTOID: Gaston Rebuffat took his sweater off just after that cartoon was drawn and gave it to Anders. ANDERS HAS WORN THE SAME SWEATER EVER SINCE. Even on +40c days in summer and while showering. Never comes off.
ewwww
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 18, 2016 - 10:20am PT
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The shoes were his girlfriends.
Better than a sheep I guess.
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Feb 18, 2016 - 10:31am PT
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Andy Duhhh? Congratulations, Rolf, on the occasion of the appearance of Knucklehead Crag on the VIMFF poster
I hide in the sothern USA for half the year and miss all the events in Vancouver.
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RyanD
climber
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Feb 18, 2016 - 10:39am PT
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I've seen Anders wearing that sweater for sure.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Feb 18, 2016 - 01:40pm PT
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Y'all are just jealous of my lovely Scandihoovian sweaters. One with reindeer on it, from the valley (Rendalen) my family comes from. One a gift from cousins. One knit by my mother. Uncultured louts!
And as they contain lanolin, to repel water, of course they have a nice odor! (So do I.)
I'll put you all down for a visit from my "Viking Age re-creation" friends, to learn you some manners.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 18, 2016 - 03:24pm PT
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How did someone hack into the Mighty Hiker avatar?
Are you to blame, Apple?
Rolf, did they not ask your permission?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 18, 2016 - 10:53pm PT
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^^^^^^^^
Definitely has that Squish look.
5% rock, 95% forest!
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Feb 19, 2016 - 12:38am PT
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Welcome back, mh..
And nice to have seen you at the Lynn Hill presentation last night at vimff ✌
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 23, 2016 - 12:26pm PT
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Definitely has that Squish look.
That reminds me of a couple of photos I've been meaning to post for a while -- photos that definitely have that Squish look.
Maybe even play "Name the route"
And a closer look
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 23, 2016 - 06:22pm PT
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The from-the-side angle disguised Boogie 'Til You Puke really well, and it seems to be working here, too. Might be something on the Papoose. Might be Millenium Falcon. I definitely can't be sure.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 23, 2016 - 07:52pm PT
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James Brennan if you had one functioning brain cell you would know that...
Whoops, sorry, just having a Stewart moment...
But no, it's not Sparrow. Nothing that steep on that part of the apron. Andy was right (I think) in one of his guesses. I took the photo from Europa last summer, and I think the climber is on Millenium Falcon.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 23, 2016 - 09:08pm PT
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If the photo was taken from Europa, then Millenium Falcon seems likely. The belayer may be at the top of p2, at the arrow in the photo.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 23, 2016 - 10:13pm PT
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The belayer is at the third belay in that photo. From Andy's arrow, diagonal up and left along the dyke to the arête, twenty feet above that, the trunk of tree in the previous post is visible extending out of the frame. The belay is just above it.
I sheepishly did not recognize the route, despite spending many hours within the frame of that picture...
K
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 24, 2016 - 12:50am PT
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The name Europa always reminds me of a cheap hotel.
I heard recently that someone had chopped the bolt ladder on P6, changing the route from 5.8 to 10c or harder. Anyone know if that is true or not?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 24, 2016 - 07:52am PT
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Yes, the bolt ladder is gone. The 10c got more bolts, I think, during the creation of the excellent Sunset Strip by Colin Morehead. You could still go just left of the 10c into a crevice, up a bit of duff, and find a way back out right to the fist crack just above the 10c. That variation preserves the character of Europa and is about 5.8.
I was guessing that the larger tree in Ghost's photo is a little down and left of the arrow in my photo. It doesn't show up well. Most of the vegetation in my photo faded when I made everything brighter. Armchair Photoshopping the Chief is way easier than being out there with scrubbing tools.
Praise to the route makers.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 24, 2016 - 11:07am PT
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The idea that Crap Crags would become an excellent and popular climb if it was cleaned, first bruited about by KM in the 1990s guidebook, appears in actuality to have expermentally validated the old adages about bronzing turds and lipstick on pigs.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 24, 2016 - 11:20am PT
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The saga of Europa may be a sad one, or at least a very weird one, but the result is anything but a bronzed turd or lipsticked pig.
I climbed Crap Crags way back in my early Squamish days, and enjoyed it. About forty years later I climbed Europa, and enjoyed that every bit as much. It's a really good climb. Almost like an alpine rock climb, and definitely not a place for beginners, despite its low grade.
The bolt ladder/no bolt ladder/rebolted ladder is weird, and out of character with the rest of the route. The easiest fix would simply be to make the bolts a little closer together so that they were relatively straightforward to aid (French free?). This would keep the climb within reach of adventurous 5.8 climbers, but still let the 10c climber have her fun.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 24, 2016 - 01:50pm PT
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Fact remains - that climb follows, not a solid wall with some loose stuff, but a fracture zone with loose stuff all the way down. You can't stabilize that with anything short of shotcrete. Trundling off the surface loose stuff just exposes more loose stuff underneath. Removing the vegetation likewise removed a layer that was holding things together.
Quite different in nature from pulling some dirt out of a solid crack.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 24, 2016 - 04:01pm PT
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Quite different in nature from pulling some dirt out of a solid crack.
Mmmm... dirt out of a solid crack.... mmmmmm
K
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 24, 2016 - 10:46pm PT
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Oplo
You have some strong opinions. Have you done Europa/CC since it was re-vamped?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 25, 2016 - 07:27am PT
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that climb follows, not a solid wall with some loose stuff, but a fracture zone with loose stuff all the way down. You can't stabilize that with anything short of shotcrete. Trundling off the surface loose stuff just exposes more loose stuff underneath.
This makes Europa sound like the Death Zone, but it really isn't. It's not a splitter crack in a beautiful smooth wall, but we've all climbed plenty of things in the mountains that are far looser/more unstable. And not thought twice about it. Sure, if you really tried, you could probably pull something off and cut the rope, kill your belayer, and fall to your death. But you'd really have to be trying to do that.
I have no idea whether it "should" have been cleaned. That's an argument for the currently active Squamish crew, not a bunch of guys who climbed there generations ago.
But Europa is a really cool route.
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Hoser
climber
Vancouver,Rome
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Feb 25, 2016 - 08:27am PT
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The easiest fix would simply be to make the bolts a little closer together so that they were relatively straightforward to aid (French free?). This would keep the climb within reach of adventurous 5.8 climbers, but still let the 10c climber have her fun.
And that was what was done, in fact it is much easier now than the way it was before.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 25, 2016 - 09:14am PT
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I agree with Hoser.
I've done Europa perhaps a dozen times and it is surprisingly solid. A few places the flakes hold each other in and make you worry, but so far so good. The long ramp traverse right is the loosest but has enough room that the looseness can be avoided with a little attention. The upper chimney has some wiggly parts, too.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 25, 2016 - 04:56pm PT
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We probably can't answer your question, Tami.
I am so far from being an aid climber that even a bolt ladder gives me serious trouble.
We need a 5'2" 5.8 leader who did the route with the bolt ladder to tell us what it is like, now. I do wonder if someone did the route expecting the bolts and then retreated. A rap line was installed partway across the traversing ramp so that partial ascents could continue during peregrine nesting closures.
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Feb 25, 2016 - 05:48pm PT
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Sorry for the thread drift, but in light of Mr.Cosgrove's passing I was wondering if anyone had any anecdotes to share about Cosgrove & Overlin's ascent of the Grand wall "using only their hands and feet" or the about the variation itself.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2016 - 03:39pm PT
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Speaking of thread drift... Where are we today?
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Feb 26, 2016 - 04:07pm PT
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looks like the top of mañana. classy - how seepy was the start?
Here's a photo to make this drift a full-on deviation.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 26, 2016 - 05:33pm PT
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Oplo
^^^^^^Question^^^^^^
Yes or No?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 26, 2016 - 09:28pm PT
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No idea what climb, but it sure looks like the view from somewhere a few pitches up in the Bulletheads.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2016 - 10:07pm PT
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Domngo got it. It is indeed the top of Manana crack. To answer your question sir, it was a bit moist but we did Xenolith Dance to get up there instead, and down climbed into the top of Manana from the 1st Xenolith anchor.
Here is another pano from the top.
Ben rapping Manana.
What is your photo domngo? I 'm guessing something in the dihedrals? Millennium Falcon ?
To answer Dru's question from awhile back, that is what happens when you do a pano on a moving rope... ;)
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OllieClimbs
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Feb 27, 2016 - 12:51am PT
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Hey Dom is it Wonderful thing about tigger on the fluffy kitten wall?
Oli
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Feb 27, 2016 - 01:55am PT
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too alpiney for tiggers..
edit: probably not squam area at all judging by the white rock, thick black lichen, and double ropes..
to continue this drift though;
anybody know the big daddy in this pic?
bonus points for whoever names all 4 peaks on the ridgeline..
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RyanD
climber
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Feb 27, 2016 - 09:24am PT
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Doms pic looks kinda like the black zawn.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 27, 2016 - 10:11am PT
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I make out a wolverine leading Never Say Never.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Feb 27, 2016 - 11:12am PT
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Apparently I should have been posting in the "Friday Night Posting While Your Drunk" thread because that is most deffinetely Never Say Never and the blocky roof of Hungry Wolf..
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 27, 2016 - 08:56pm PT
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Looking back at where Jim took the photos at the top of this page from...
The view upvalley isn't too shabby either.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Feb 27, 2016 - 10:33pm PT
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Tami- Bravo! Spot on!
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Feb 27, 2016 - 11:00pm PT
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Never Say Never it is.
Yo Oli!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2016 - 10:37am PT
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Jim- Nice photos! We gotta get you out on some vertical granite this summer! Angel's crest! What a blast it was to do that again this year !!
Eric- great shots as always. Thanks for the killer profile pic! I'll have to get you to send me that one.
Domngo- Sweet pics! That second one looks exactly like Right Wing should look. I still haven't been up there yet but i think i should be able to rectify that this summer. That anvil island sunset is a classic!
Since it 's a rainy day, how about some more pics? I took these when i was out with Eric, Jesse and Relic a couple weeks ago.
Kieran jangling his balls
He was a bit hesitant after spending most of the winter in bishop on the 'milks pebbles.
I had planned to meet up with Relic, that day. He said he wanted to "get some sun on his tits", so that 's what we did.
Relic getting witchy.
A standard cragging day at the bluffs.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2016 - 11:03am PT
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I just talked to Eric, Greg. He confirmed his presence at the Ivanhoe on Sunday night ... Right Eric?? !! ;)
I believe he said he was scared of going downtown where all the AZN's are driving !! Lol
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Mar 10, 2016 - 08:04pm PT
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It's been just over two weeks since Scott Cosgrove passed away.
Scott (aka Cos, The Cos, Cozzy, Ojos Locos, Cozzimoto or Moto) first climbed in Squamish in the late eighties, became a regular visitor and loved the place.
He earned a place in Squamish history with his first free ascent of The Grand by climbing the improbable blank face connecting the Underfling to Perry's Layback.
I posted this next bit in another thread.
I first encountered Scott in the Camp 4 Parking Lot in the late seventies I think.
He was posing down, literally, with some visiting Spaniards and already had a reputation as a badass definitely way out of my league.
We connected more directly in Josh in 81-82 I think.
He was living in his van and hanging with the General and we coalesced around a mutual fondness for strong coffee, any weed we could get our hands on, slander and delusions of climbing grandeur.
Climbing with Scott started in earnest when he came up to Squamish in the late eighties with Amy.
We were well enough acquainted by then that he looked me up and of course I gave him a place to stay and did my best to show him around.
We headed up The Grand and by then it was customary to simul climb Merci Me and the last few bolts up to the base of The Pillar.
I was on the pointy end and had forgotten to bring smaller stoppers for looping the 3/16 bolt remnants and actually blew off one and hollered at Scott that I was falling.
He grabbed the rope in front of him and thanks to the drag through the gear, held my fall, shook his head in disbelief and yelled at me "What the f*#k's up Chief, you're not supposed to fall simul climbing!"
I did the Canadian thing, apologized, finished the lead and we carried on.
He never let me forget that one.
Scott became a regular on the Squamish scene and he'd show up with his current love interest and camp in the yard, sometimes for a few weeks of the Squamish summer.
One week in particular stands out, probably early nineties I think, and we decided to do the long free classics but the problem was the rain.
I suggested we check out The Daily Planet on the Badge as I suspected if we could get to the base of the corner it would be protected.
We sloshed up through the forest and jugged an old fixed line up to the main ledge but the slabs up to the corner were wet, so I used a combination of wool socks and knees to get to the corner.
Scott liked that.
Long story short, we were protected from the rain and I'll never forget watching it fall behind us into the forest below as we enjoyed some of the only dry rock on the Chief and cruised the beautiful corner system, Coz on sighting the route.
That wet our appetites and the weather improved so after a bit of a rest day we headed up the University Wall.
I offered Cozzy my complex beta for the crux of the second pitch which involved jamming through a short overhang and will never forget the sight of him blowing off my beta and wildly underclinging the miserably rounded edge and not falling off.
We carried on the rest of the way and finished up The Chimneys, no falls and the first on sight flash of the route by Coz.
We took a rest day and climbed the Northern Lights, again no falls and an on sight flash of the route by Coz.
Scott came up to Squamish regularly and capped his career there by freeing the Grand Wall route via an unlikely 5.13 face section that I had dubbed "a featureless wasteland".
I think Annie Overlin helped him with that and it took a few tries before he figured it out.
We were all stoked for him.
Because one of his parents was originally from Canada, Scott always thought of himself as part Canuck and went through the process of obtaining his Canadian citizenship, something he was real proud of.
Many of us Canucks liked to think of him as one of our own.
Scott was always a far better free climber than I could ever dream of being but he was a patient and supportive partner who always motivated me to climb my best.
I think that was true for anyone who climbed with him whether you were a beginner or in his league.
He made me welcome at his home in Josh and I was privileged to spend a lot of time there.
Mornings always started with strong coffee, quality pork product and mind numbing bud.
A colourful mix of Josh denizens and visiting warrior athletes often populated the place and there was no shortage of provocative conversation and debate.
Back in 95 we climbed together in the Valley and did the Chouinard Herbert on Sentinel and West Face of El Cap.
He helped me start the Grand Wazoo on Middle solving the technical crux on the first pitch before leaving the Valley over a meltdown with his girlfriend.
I blew my elbow that following winter in Josh and pretty much ended my hard climbing career.
The ankle injury and the demands of film work started to limit Scott's climbing.
We worked together in Vancouver on Tron Legacy and shared the bond of common suffering when two aging crag rats find themselves in dusty soundstages in the wee hours wondering what happened to those easier youthful days moving over the stone.
Scott was a dark horse and had a volatile side but he had a generous heart and was utterly without guile.
He lived his beliefs, worked harder than anyone, quietly endured and remained true to his friends.
I'm proud to have been his friend.
I've been in touch with his sister and close friends and the plan at this time is to have a gathering in his memory in Joshua Tree on Saturday March 26.
Todd Gordon has graciously offered to host the gathering at his place.
Perry Beckham
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 10, 2016 - 08:09pm PT
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He was lucky to have you as a friend Perry.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 10, 2016 - 08:18pm PT
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Perry, I'm sorry I never met him. Thanks for posting this.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Mar 10, 2016 - 08:37pm PT
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Beautiful tribute, Perry.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Mar 10, 2016 - 09:11pm PT
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Good to see. The one or two times Coz winged us on the philosophy corner of ST his words were hard but he made some common ground out of his great spirit.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 13, 2016 - 12:05am PT
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"It's my hope that you'll rise to the level of the past, instead of beating it down with a heavy hand".
Scott Cosgrove.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2016 - 07:58am PT
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Thanks Perry!!
Scott was a wise fellow. I'm sad we never met. :(
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Mar 15, 2016 - 11:59pm PT
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Thanks for sharing that. The man sure left an indelible mark on this world - we're all better for it.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Mar 24, 2016 - 02:22pm PT
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what happened?
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Mar 29, 2016 - 08:52am PT
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let's play, Name That Ledge!!
Anyone recognize this mighty fine perch??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2016 - 09:37am PT
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I'm geussing it's somewhere near/on U-wall?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 29, 2016 - 11:10am PT
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I'm guessing it's somewhere over by Tantalus Wall.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 29, 2016 - 11:23am PT
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Looks like you all are expecting days of good weather and no precipitation. I might finally make a run up there, but I'm on nursing duty for a friend who is having major ACL surgery. Double bummer. Have fun. Send photos.
I'll see about something local, though.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 29, 2016 - 12:29pm PT
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Brownie your photo appears to be pitch or so below the dance platform on the mighty student loan wall.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 30, 2016 - 03:34pm PT
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Is that the top of Clean Corner?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2016 - 09:25am PT
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Hey Domngo, what's the story with the balloon soloing? :)
Is that the top of Clean Corner?
Pretty sure Luke got it Dru. Especially since Kieran was known to have solo'd Uwall last week. Funny because i completely forgot that when i answered..
Greg!!! Nice to see some pics from your adventures with Jim! Did you enjoy Robin's efforts on Old Style? It is quite squeaky clean now! :)
It's always nice to have meetings in the blue room hey?! ;)
Did you guys take the left or right crack off The Cider crack belay? From what Jim says it was the left? I think that is referred to as Grub Street now and the right is the Knuckle Duster variation which is a little harder. :)
I wish I could've joined you and I hope that I will get another opportunity to share a rope with you guys in the near future!! :)
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domngo
climber
Canada
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I always get a kick outta seeing the powerwash job - kudos to whoever put the effort in.
Hey Mike, the balloons went along with the beers we stashed on various parts of different routes @ burgs n fries that day. It was a friend's birthday and we tasked him to find the balloons - finish the accompanying beverage and keep chuggin on. Great day.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Does anyone know if the late Ed Seedhouse played chess in his younger days?
Thanks...
Glenn
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Thanks, Greg. I just ran across some ancient rating sheets. Looks like we might have once played in the same tournament (he was in the junior section). Glenn
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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It's an old formula and probably a fait accompli.
Land grab and real estate development posing as a ski area
Good bye Crown land including Cat Lake.
Dangle some trinkets in front of First Nations, socialize loss and privatize profit.
Too big to fail.
Maybe I'm being too optimistic?
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Apr 10, 2016 - 09:24am PT
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Ray Charles could see there's no ski area on Brohm Ridge of the magnitude proposed.
My point is that it's a land grab and real estate development posing as a ski area and that on that basis, it's probably going to happen.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 10, 2016 - 10:17am PT
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My point is that it's a land grab and real estate development posing as a ski area
Like Furry Creek "golf course." Even a non-golfer can see that the side of a mountain is a stupid place for a golf course. But putting in a "golf course" makes it attractive for real estate development, and...
Which is not to say there was anything underhanded about the Furry Creek development -- I have no idea. But Garibaldi as a ski area makes about as much sense as Furry Creek as a golf course.
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Apr 10, 2016 - 09:48pm PT
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What a great bit of high pressure we've been graced with.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2016 - 06:34pm PT
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Perry is right. Gas is a real shame. There's no water there and the environment / local ski hills will suffer as a result of it. Not to mention stealing prime sledding terrain!
The skiing is simply not worth the effort, but the real estate is the real goal. It's ironic because Brohm has seen a failed resort before. That's why those nice cabins are up there..
Great work Eric!! I have no idea who that tall soloist could be... Lol!! What does Dave's new FA go at?
I've been super busy lately, but I managed to sneak out for a bit with Phil this morning.
We wanted to rope up, but the weather had different ideas so we hid in the forest instead.
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Ryan L
climber
PORT MOODY
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Apr 28, 2016 - 01:26pm PT
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This climb is super fun, one of the best recent additions to B&F :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2016 - 07:43am PT
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I hope everyone's been getting out lots with this beautiful weather we've been having!! I haven't unfortunately. Adult responsibilities (ugh!) and my body have been holding me back.
I'm at penny lane atm, just enjoying the atmosphere while i eat my breakfast and was wondering if any of you could identify this incredibly well lit open book on the north north aret?
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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The guidebook says there's nothing up there - the calling (12a) is the white mark to the right of your diedre.
Go climb it BM!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2016 - 08:37am PT
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Which book supafly? I find it hard to believe that gem hasn't seen an ascent!?
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Select.. so yeah may appear in the old Mclane climbers guide.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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That corner jumps out in some light and hides at other times.
Maybe check with Paul Cordy for current info. Last time I did North North Arete there were signs of his Parallel Passages activity in the vicinity.
Here is a photo from the parking for Slhanay. From left to right the arrows show Public Image, Parallel Passages, and Northern Lights.
North North Arete is out of sight around to the left of the corner.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Looks way easier to clean the two aretes to left and right respectively. surprised Harry isn't up there right now actually
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Where does the North North Arete route go in this area?
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Was wondering if anyone could ID this thing...
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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This area, the North North Arete
1. Big Mike's corner (see posts above)
2. Blocky tower (see below)
3. Where the route North North Arete finishes
The route North North Arete
from the 1992 McLane guide
lower part
upper part
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2016 - 08:38pm PT
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I look forward to Kevin's latest Complete Guide to The Squamish Chief. The select book is good and useful but naturally lacking in presenting amazing obscurities.
Indeed Jim. As I suspected this corner has a name. It's Tattered Tights and it goes at 10c.
The description reads "Rappel in from the North North Arete at Indica Point and climb back out to the top via cracks."
It also has a happy face next to it which indicates that it is "A good climb that is prone to becoming vegetated, or is badly in need of a retro, but otherwise meriting stars."
Here is the topo.
Climbers Guide to Squamish 2005 edition by Kevin Mclane.
Andy, thank you much for those lovely photos!! They are a welcome window into that area. It looks as if you should be able to traverse in from the bottom as well. The corner looks simply stunning. Well worth a little elbow grease, In my opinion!
Can you guys guess who climbed it first? (Most of the stuff up there was climbed by one party...)
For me this illustrates how strong the need is for a new comprehensive guide. The situation here in Squamish is very similar to the situation in Yosemite right now, where a small number of climbs are receiving a disproportionate amount of traffic because the beta for the obscurities is hard to come by. There is a ton of climbing that a lot of people just simply don't know about.
When i got my hands on the most recent Reid guide in the valley a couple of springs ago i nearly shat my drawers! There are so many amazing routes to be discovered, as is the case here. The beta should be available to the people. I wish Kevin would continue to sell his 2005 edition until he comes out with the new guide....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2016 - 10:18pm PT
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You got it Tami!
That area is actually unaffected. If you look at my photo above, you can see the rock scar well to the right of Twisted Tights. The scar is actually the top of the Calling.
That whole area looks wild. Pterydactles definetly still roam there.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Hmmm... looking at those photos I'm not sure now just what Leif Patterson and I climbed. Whatever, it is obviously one of the obscurities, and probably best left as such.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2016 - 11:59pm PT
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That's for sure. Did you ever climb anything on that side Greg?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Damn those North Walls climbs have stood the test of time for being, well, ahead of their time.
No kidding.
When Randy and Dean were climbing that crazy stuff I got them to write it up and give me some pictures so that I could do a feature on it in the Canadian Alpine Journal. My sense at the time was that this was where the real future of Squamish climbing lay, but when I published that year's issue, I got a load of sh#t from John Howe, who couldn't believe that I didn't understand that what was going on at Pet Wall was far more important.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Wow! Thanks, Big Mike. I did not realize that the imposing and mysterious corner has a climb. From the description it sounds like Tattered Tights might go up cracks on one of the walls of the corner, which look cleaner.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dom,
Was wondering if anyone could ID this thing...
Urquhart. East Face route, de Jong solo FA, VI 5.10 A3, between 7 and 10* moves of aid (hooks). One of the craziest and most impressive alpine routes in SW BC.
see also this tale of a big fail and bail here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/223402/
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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I heard Max developed some cutting edge technology for the space industry and is very wealthy man.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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I just saw Max last week. He's doing well in Chilliwack with his wife and kids. And his business is doing really well. They just attached a module he designed (the inflatable one) to the ISS.
A couple of years ago when him, Shaun and I did the north face of Rexford he had this super high tech NASA surplus string for a rap anchor. It was about 2 mm diameter and as strong as 8mm cord or 1" webbing, but way more cut resistant.
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Wow, thanks Oplo. Glad I asked.
Any of yall coastal denizens got any info on this S-facing wall on Futhark Peak?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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First off, drop the "Futhark Peak" bullsh#t. That is the Winslow Wall.
IIRC it's got a Rob Richards route that goes to the top and a Crapo Bros rig too
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Winslow Wall bitd from camp
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Oplo with the goods again. What a proud looking wall.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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May 26, 2016 - 03:01pm PT
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Sighted yesterday. Not on the backside of the Moon, either.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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May 26, 2016 - 03:08pm PT
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Does his name start with "MH", kinda' like yours? Come to think of it, why is he taking a picture of his hand? I'm thinking, there is more to this story...
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Slabby D
Trad climber
B'ham WA
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May 26, 2016 - 03:44pm PT
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So where is this Fuhthark/Winslow Wall anyways? Can I see it from the Truck Crossing? Dumb question...5 seconds with the google answer the question.....
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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May 26, 2016 - 05:43pm PT
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It was great to meet the real Mighty Hiker on the First Summit yesterday.
I'll tell my story when the pictures come back. In the meantime...
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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May 26, 2016 - 07:49pm PT
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Lovely scenery.... At least in that last shot.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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May 26, 2016 - 07:52pm PT
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On another note, I posted this on our little Squamish Climbing forum, but it doesn't seem to have really fired up for the season, so I'll share it here too.
Over the last 8 months, many of you have seen the fixed blue static ropes running down to the left of Memorial Crack and Calculus Crack. This is an ongoing project that will be ready for next spring, due to time constraints, and volume of cleaning required. The climb was completed in its vegetated state in September of 2014, but had to wait a while for the level of commitment required to tackle cleaning it.
When complete, the route will be nine pitches from 25 to 55 metres, and looks like it will weigh in around 5.8. It starts just left of Calculus Direct, crosses Start from Scratch at the first belay, then parallels Calculus Crack for its entire length in cracks and ramp systems just inside the South Gulley. It crosses the apron rap route at the bottom of the first short rap, and continues diagonally up and left , popping out of the gulley at the base of the groove below Memorial Ledge.
From this tree belay, the route is now open for two pitches to its top. It begins about 5m left of Karen's Math, and follows cracks for a 30m 5.7 and a 40m 5.8 pitch, joining Memorial crack for the final few metres before the belay on top. This can be linked into a memorable 70 m pitch with judicious use of slings to straighten out the rope line and avoid drag. Presently it is a straightforward gear belay mid way, but I haven't made a final decision about that. It will depend on how the character of the rest of the route develops.
At the top, you'll need to use the standard rap off on the right to descend to Broadway ledge if not continuing up the Chief.
Please give the top pitches a try, and let others know!
Kris
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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May 26, 2016 - 08:15pm PT
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Thank you, Kris!
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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May 26, 2016 - 09:22pm PT
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On June 4th there is the Grade VII Big Wall Night at the climbing gym. It's part company launch part big wall story night. It looks pretty sweet...People speaking that I can remember are Marc Andre, Russel Mitrovich, Brette Harrington, Will Stanhope and my buddy Chris. Chris is on the Atlantic Ocean Wall right now, and in the last month did the Nose, Zenyatta Mondatta and a solo of the Pacific Ocean Wall.
You need to buy a ticket too...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 26, 2016 - 09:40pm PT
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Thank you, Kris!
Yeah, me too with the thanks.
Looking forward to checking it out this summer.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2016 - 10:45am PT
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Thanks for sharing that photo Anders!! I can't believe it's been so long since i've posted here! I guess that's what happens when you let life pile up..
Andy- nice photos as always. I miss Wayno, Masha and Boris.
Nick- good looking out! That ground up night sounds super fun!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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May 27, 2016 - 01:13pm PT
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Thanks to Kris for finding and picking up the puck on the new route-to-be, between Calculus Crack and the original lower half of South Arete (aka Squamish Buttress). Soon after our exploration in 2014, I got preoccupied with family responsibilities and then health troubles, and so despite offering to help, haven't actually done so quite yet. Hopefully Kris will leave a few spoonfuls of dirt and maybe a twig or two for me.
It sounds like we may need to get Hamie up there, to show us where Pioneer is - the pitches that he and Jim Baldwin did in 1962. They climbed what we now call South Arete, thinking in the absence of any hard information that it was the right way to go, and then did a loop from Broadway, left of "Memorial Crack", to get to the forest above the Apron. Where Fred, Hank and Don went in 1959, where Pioneer goes, where Kris, Aaron and I went in 2014, and where the route that Kris has been working so hard on criss-cross and overlap is an interesting question, but they all converge on the same area.
(The original name for all of Squamish Buttress was South Arete - the buttress right of South Gully. Which only goes to show that climbers at Squamish have been confusing route names ever since climbing got started there.)
It was nice to run into Andy, Robert and Sierra on top on Wednesday, while on a get fit, Squamish Facelift, and graffiti-inventory outing. A small emendation to Andy's photo, though - my Jedi imitation. Jaybro says that inverts are the coming thing, so I thought I'd give it a try. And yes, I know that my form could be improved.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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May 27, 2016 - 04:36pm PT
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Hey Mike, I miss you too, but that pic by Andy is not us. Lol! I miss Boris also but the two we now have are keeping us busy. At eleven months, Betty weighs 110 and Boba Fett is almost 120. Pounds that is. We are still looking for that perfect place in Okanogan County. All of you are invited when we get there.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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May 27, 2016 - 07:03pm PT
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Jim, Grade VII. John Middendorf, Nathan Kukathas and Chris Trull are involved. They have a portaledge getting flogged on El Cap right now.
Tami, the one up in Squamish.
See ya there Mike?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2016 - 04:44pm PT
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Too funny Wayno!! I coulda sworn that was you guys! The puppies sound awesome. I can't wait to meet them!!
Nick- Unfortunately i have other plans this weekend.. I'm headed to the island for a High School reunion. Let's get together soon!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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"The puppies" are a year old today. They are almost as big as you, Mike. There is quite a contrast between the two Okanogans, north and south of the border. Up north I hear they call it the "Palm Springs of Canada", where down south it is as close to the old west as you can get in the states. The cost of dirt is quite different, too. If I want a nice dinner or to go shop I would head North. I sure hope I can make it happen. We have been keen on a place in "Molson", a ghost town, that gets it name from the Molson Brewing family. I guess they have their hands into a lot of things up there. Interesting family history.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Yeah: what a shame that the two best crags on the Shore (Senior Centre and Deep Cove)got banned though.
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Presto
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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More kudos for Rich Wheater's book. I was delightfully amazed to see just how much bouldering exists in close proximity to a couple of my jobsites. Looking forward to using these long hours of daylight to hit up some new spots!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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I bought one. I like it, especially Rich's photos. There are quite a lot of details such as maps, history, weather, wildlife, topos, and a large climbing glossary. The guide makes clear to me how much effort it takes and how many different forces must be managed toward some kind of balance to produce such a book.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I bought one.
Does it show our route?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Shh.
Even Indiana Jones could not find it.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2016 - 04:20pm PT
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Ground Up moved big wall night to tonight!! Doors at 7!!
See y'all there!!
:)
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jul 18, 2016 - 07:23pm PT
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Here we go again.
I say we because that is my chalk and Robert's chalk above her on a damp but drying day at Shannon Falls.
Two good routes.
Guidebook trivia:
McLane 2005 calls the left line Hunter's Moon. McLane 1992 and Bourdon 2012 call it Hungry Wolf.
More guidebook trivia:
In McLane 2005 the route called John 3:16 appears on page 316.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2016 - 01:46am PT
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Awesome pics Andy!! Sorry I've been so absent lately gang! I've been buried under a mountain of paperwork. I'm finally starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel though, so I'll be around more soon!
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Jul 19, 2016 - 08:39am PT
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McLane 2005 calls the left line Hunter's Moon. McLane 1992 and Bourdon 2012 call it Hungry Wolf.
I'm fairly certain that the 2005 guide just has the two route #'s reversed in the photo. The pitch descriptions are actually accurate to the other two guidebooks you reference Andy.
That whole area is stacked with high quality routes.
K
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jul 19, 2016 - 09:37am PT
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I'm fairly certain that the 2005 guide just has the two route #'s reversed in the photo.
Thanks, Kris. It was enough to confuse me. The order of the descriptions is also misleading: Hungry Wolf, Hunter's Moon, then Never Say Never. McLane usually numbers and lists routes from right to left, but at Gobsmacking Wall it goes the other direction. But yes, the route descriptions and grades are correct in McLane 2005.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Jul 19, 2016 - 09:56pm PT
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Since we're back in the neighborhood of Shannon Falls...
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jul 20, 2016 - 06:18am PT
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One of my partners who hasn't been climbing for forever asked me, "How many routes have we done that you hadn't done before?" The answer was maybe 3 out of a hundred or so. The route above would be another. I've been practicing my falling in preparation.
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ajamunro
Social climber
BC
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Jul 20, 2016 - 09:02pm PT
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Jump to Light Speed, Scrubber?
Looking forward to climbing that.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 23, 2016 - 08:39pm PT
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A month with no Squamish?
That ain't right.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Aug 23, 2016 - 09:27pm PT
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Who's that on the cobra?
Here are some pics from my first wall of the season, Ten Years After via the Grinning Weasel.
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Aug 23, 2016 - 10:00pm PT
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Yeah, wall stoke is high!
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Aug 23, 2016 - 11:07pm PT
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Nice one Luke! That's a great route.
There has been a lot of aid action recently...the route you did luke was done in a 10 hour "push", 3rd ascent of Son Of Pan A4+, 3rd of Up From the Skys A4 and Skull F*#k A5 has had the 1st and 2nd pitches fixed with the blast happening on Thursday...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 24, 2016 - 12:59pm PT
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3rd ascent of Son Of Pan A4+
That's just bad ass. I remember Luc M's story of attempting the crux sounded absolutely terrifying.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Aug 24, 2016 - 01:09pm PT
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IIRC, Up From the Skies has had three (or more) previous ascents:
1975: Daryl Hatten & Eric Weinstein.
1976: Scott Flavelle and others, including perhaps John Bryan.
1980s ?: Peder Ourom and (probably) Craig Thomson.
It may have had other ascents, although the fearsome reputation of The Curtains pitch probably deters some.
Amy route on the Pan-Granitic Wall is full value.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 24, 2016 - 01:14pm PT
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Sounds like a real renaissance of aid climbing on the Chief.
Who's that on the cobra?
Nico Favresse on an early attempt back in 2005. Fun to watch. He could do all the moves, but couldn't quite string it all together without at least one fall. What was interesting was that he didn't seem ever to be struggling -- just really smooth right up to the moment of popping off.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Aug 24, 2016 - 01:40pm PT
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That's some good climb, Luke and Kieran. Thanks for the photos.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Aug 24, 2016 - 08:42pm PT
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My bad...thought it was the 3rd.
The crux of Son of Pan was endless beaks that just kissed the rock. Falls not recommended.
I shot the sherrif needs a 3rd ascent...
Do you old farts know anything about some old line left of Uni but right of Bald Egos? Goes through an awesome long seam...
All of these hard walls have been done by Chris Trull with assorted partners....he is involved with the Grade VII company who now make the BEST ledges available, and other cool stuff....
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Aug 24, 2016 - 10:02pm PT
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Chris Geisler has done Up From The Skies.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Aug 25, 2016 - 01:12pm PT
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Chris did the 3rd of under the gun, not up from the skys...
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Aug 25, 2016 - 05:08pm PT
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Weird, he told me like 12 years ago it was his favorite. Maybe he was just trying to get me to climb it. Hahahahaha
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Aug 26, 2016 - 10:18pm PT
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Nice to see this thread back in action. I was beginning to think that all the photos had been taken, and all of the stories had been told.
Slightly off topic, but still BC related: Tim McAllister [who posts occasionally as Timmc] and Tony McLane recently established a 3,000 foot route on Postern Mtn, near Jasper @ 11+, A2. Very cool.
Further off topic. A couple of days ago I [and most of you] received an email from MEC touting their summer sale. I was surprised to see a "Swimwear" section, and so clicked on it. Two and a half pages, including over 60 different bikinis. The MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP now sells BIKINIS? SIXTY STYLES?
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Aug 26, 2016 - 11:16pm PT
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The MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP now sells BIKINIS? SIXTY STYLES?
The GoreTex ones are coming in or the fall shopping season..
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Aug 27, 2016 - 08:51pm PT
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Hey bringmedeath, I should have been clear and said my buddy Chris, not Geisler, did under the gun.
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Aug 27, 2016 - 10:22pm PT
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Someone was working on Skullf*ck today
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Aug 28, 2016 - 12:52am PT
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Chris and Neil Chelton are on it. They took lots of falls each trying the 4th pitch.
Megos sent Dreamcatcher on his first day of effort...he is a true step above climbers like Ondra and Sharma!
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jgrigg
Trad climber
Kitchener, ON, Canada
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Aug 28, 2016 - 11:41am PT
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Nice one Luke! That's a great route.
There has been a lot of aid action recently...the route you did luke was done in a 10 hour "push", 3rd ascent of Son Of Pan A4+, 3rd of Up From the Skys A4 and Skull F*#k A5 has had the 1st and 2nd pitches fixed with the blast happening on Thursday...
Under the gun was climbed, not up from the skies. Possible third ascent though there was a replaced bolt on crux pitch and Matt didn't recall replacing any hardware when he did 2nd ascent. So most likely 4th+ ascent. The lesbian saw an ascent this year too. Wall stoke is high in Squam!
Nice work on grinning weasel boys!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Aug 28, 2016 - 12:12pm PT
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There was a red portaledge on Pan Granitic Frogman yesterday afternoon.
We did the last two pitches of the new route that Kris has been working on yesterday, starting from the north end of Broadway - at the bottom of the 'gully' leading up and past the Baldwin Plaque. Very pleasant! The first pitch or so more or less coincides with a route done by Jim Baldwin and Hamish Mutch in 1962, named Pioneer. The new route then goes up and right, eventually connecting with Plaque/Memorial Crack, with Pioneer continuing up ramps, bushy sections, and a chimney. Jim and Hamish were doing the second ascent of South Arete, now called Squamish Buttress. Not having much information, they climbed the buttress right of South Gully - the route we now call South Arete, although several bolts have been added to its upper pitch. Then continued up the weakness above, left of Plaque/Memorial Crack, to reach the forest above the Apron and the upper part of the route.
On a related note, two years ago we did a comparison of the descents from the Apron. Starting at the high point of Broadway, Kris and Reuben went down the new rappel route into South Gully, and I scrambled and walked down . We arrived at the parking lot almost simultaneously, taking about 30 minutes. Which suggests that rappelling is no faster, and many with less experience might take more time. YMMV.
Otherwise, perhaps we could organize an ascent of Rurp Riot during the Psyche Ledge party, to 'improve' the holds a bit more?
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Aug 28, 2016 - 01:02pm PT
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Looks like the skull f*#k team has moved the belay over so that the whippers won't take out the belayer.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Aug 28, 2016 - 01:09pm PT
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Coming down it seems...
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Aug 28, 2016 - 03:25pm PT
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Wow. Indeed.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 28, 2016 - 08:01pm PT
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I am pretty sure that Up from the Skies has had several more than 3 ascents.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Aug 29, 2016 - 11:51pm PT
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Dave and I did the 3rd ascent of Up From the Skies in summer of 77.
Peder and I did the 3rd ascent of the regular route on the Badge around the same time as well as an early repeat of The Black Dyke.
Training for El Cap.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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If anyone is interested, there will be an attempt on The Camel (the sub-peak of Crown Mountain, on the north shore) tomorrow, October 10th. We will set out from the coffee shop at the Grouse Nest at 9:15 - some are hiking up, leaving from the bottom of the tram at 7:30. Please bring climbing gear. If possible, we hope to imitate this fine photo from the 1920s. But to be home in time for turkey-eating.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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On the Camel: left to right, Gus Fraser, ??, Eric Fuller, Bev Cayley, Les Ford, Bruce Clegg, Art Cooper, Martin, ??, ??, Olive Hardy, Tom Fyles.
Photo probably taken in mid-1920s. Note tricouni nails on boots.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2016 - 10:36pm PT
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I 'member Big Mike.
Me too... What the H E double hockey sticks happened to that guy??
😉
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Nice to hear from you, Mike. Getting out much?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2016 - 11:39am PT
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Hi Glenn! I haven't been out much, but I'm still getting on the rock occasionally.
Kieran and Luke and I ran up Rock On after work one day this summer. That was a great day.
The sunset was fantastic.
We walked down the apron in the cover of night and still made the casino for last call.
Jim- My health has been really good! I've been working on getting my life organized and my financial health in order this year.. Something i've been neglecting for too long.
We need to get out! It would be super fun to do a crag day get together with a bunch of st people!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 10, 2016 - 11:45am PT
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B T D T T T
B
U
M
P
T
O
D
U
M
P
T
H
E
T
R
U
M
P
T
H
R
E
A
D
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 10, 2016 - 01:12pm PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2016 - 09:19am PT
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Nice Pix Luke! That Gigapan looks interesting! I can't wait to try that rig out!
That is the infamous Dave Henkle Tami. Happy Thanksgiving to you too and everyone else!
Anders! How did your outing go?
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Oct 11, 2016 - 09:59am PT
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That is a photo of the grinning weasel link to the sword face crack
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Oct 11, 2016 - 10:32am PT
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The idea with the expedition yesterday was to climb Crown and the Camel, which are conspicuous on Vancouver's north shore. That is, on what may be one of the last sunny days before the rains and snows.
Here is a photo of them both, from Grouse Mountain:
You can see why the Camel got its name. It's about a 2.5 hour hike, up and down and muddy, from Grouse to the Camel, which was first climbed in 1908 - solo!
We ended up with six people, which wasn't bad for turkey day, on short notice. Four of the six are participants in what they call the Bagger Challenge, which is an informal group of people who each year try to ascend all 67 (!) peaks and bumps on the north shore and in Howe Fjord (Sound), south of Furry Creek. One of them, David Crerar, is working on a history of Vancouver's north shore mountains - there's lots. They claim to be 'hikers', and are super fit - one of them, Laurent, did all 67 summits since the spring, starting from sea level in each case, and ascending only on bicycle and on foot. I teased them about not including the Camel in their list, even though it has a proper name and a long history. They said it was excluded (and Harvey's Pup) because it involved climbing, but indeed much of what they do already is fairly serious scrambling. So I said let's give it a try, figuring we could somehow get them up (safely) and then down (the hard part). And, with a lot of help from Andy (MH2), it worked out.
Artsy photo of people on Crown, from the Camel. I was hoping for a Brocken Spectre, but no such luck.
Site (more or less) of the BCMC cabin on Grouse, from the 1920s - 1960s. Maybe my first hike, in 1963 with my father.
So yesterday was a useful reconnaissance, and thanks to everyone for their help and patience! The plan next year is to get as many as possible to the top of the Camel, and to replicate if not surpass the 12 people they got on the Camel's Head. Without a rope. Using nailed boots. In the 1920s.
ps It's spelt Genius Loci, not Genus Loci. In Greek, Genius Loci means "spirit of the place", whereas Genus Loci, if it means anything at all, means "species of the place".
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Oct 11, 2016 - 07:46pm PT
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After climbing the grinning weasel I tensioned off right and mantled onto the ledge just after the crux of the sword then continued up the face crack, fixing the rope before the bolt ladder..
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Oct 12, 2016 - 08:26am PT
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Cormier and I did that a little while back! We linked Apron Strings into Genus Loci then climbed GW into that seam to get onto TYA.. From what I had seen of the TYA topo I argued for leaving the the hammer behind and only bringing 4 beaks.. Boy was I surprised when I got to the top of GW.. I got cormier to belay from a few meters below the belay and then I set off on 15m of leap frogging hand placed peckers that culminated with a bent and rusty 1/4" stud.. Yikes! I was talking to a guy on the sword as I worried my way up it, and as I clipped the bolt I mentioned how ridiculous it would be if the bolt blew as I looked down at the rope dangling in space save for a blue alien in a flaring pod half way down the pitch. Thankfully the stud held!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 12, 2016 - 12:59pm PT
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Repost for FoodEater
Nice picture MH!
Way to get after it!
Edit:
And I might as well make a public congratulations to young Kieran for his recent Onsight One Day Valley to Valley Solo Ascent of the Regular North West Face of Half Dome (OODV2VSA of the RNWF of HD)
Seems like not that long ago we were cuttIng our teeth on the apron...
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Oct 12, 2016 - 01:41pm PT
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Seems like not that long ago we were cuttIng our teeth on the apron...
The direction looks good.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 13, 2016 - 09:31am PT
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Nice work Kieran!
i was psyched for my home-made ledge -till it collapsed .....
I hate it when that happens. It happened to one of my partners on an epic winter ascent of the Tang. Trip way back when. Luckily, all three of us had butt-bags. Unluckily, we had three more nights on the wall.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Oct 24, 2016 - 11:30am PT
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Didn't know about Colin's talk, or I would have been there. Next time....
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Oct 24, 2016 - 11:52am PT
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I thought it was a great slideshow. Talk about a banner year for Mr.Haley...Definitely a high ratio of arm-sleeve to mustache action goin on. The cutie on the arm thought so too.
Besides the significant amount of serious geologic pornshots, I personally really enjoyed the bits about his upbringing & early explorations in the cascades.
Curious as to what folks down there now consider the plum to pick after all these sub 24hr ascents.....
HOLY SH#T!!! OODV2VSA - well done Mr.Kieran! Millennials these days.....
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Nov 10, 2016 - 04:32pm PT
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Does Della Falls ever freeze? Has it been climbed?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2016 - 11:08pm PT
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Sorry I missed that presentation Tami! I've been super busy lately, but i'm working on fitting more of the things i love back into my schedule again!
God I miss this view!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2016 - 12:07pm PT
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Brandon-
Why the interest? Are you coming west this winter??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2016 - 10:50am PT
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Sweet pics Brownie!! Thanks for the link Luke!
Silver!! How are ya!! You better come visit buddy! I can't wait to show you around!! What does the wife do for Vail?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2016 - 06:29pm PT
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Hi Silver!
Cool! Please do let me know if you plan on making it up here!!
I will definitely let you know when I make it down south again! I still have your cell! Has it changed?
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Dec 19, 2016 - 12:09pm PT
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Any chance one of you could link me with Oploponax?
I have some questions about an area he's been too, tried to email him through Supertopo but no luck..
Cheers!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 19, 2016 - 01:31pm PT
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Ask away dude. Or send me a Facebook PM
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2016 - 02:05pm PT
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Nice work nwo! I can't wait to get out!!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 19, 2016 - 02:51pm PT
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^ That's some classic SB ice by the way. The one left of Mosquito is called Alice on Ice cause it follows the rock route Alice. The Bughouse one doesn't have a name.
also, good god those Stubais, or are they super old Grivels? museum pieces anyways
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 20, 2016 - 09:23am PT
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I dunno who the genius was who said "let's make an ice axe where the shaft bend is towards the ice to reduce the clearance". Probably they even got a raise.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 20, 2016 - 11:20am PT
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OMG Tami look at that north wall hammer you're swinging!
:o :o
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 20, 2016 - 02:07pm PT
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"the big slab of ice below the UWall"
This slab was climbed as the first two pitches of the FA of the UWall. As were the last four pitches of the Roman Chimneys.........
Tami, how did that red sling above your head get there? It seems too high for you to have placed it from your current position. (That's not a short joke!! :) :)) Was it there already?
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knucko
climber
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Dec 20, 2016 - 02:33pm PT
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My first "BIG" road trip was to Squamish....93-94??
My partner and I were not very experienced and had little gear. In fact my buddy had never done a multi-pitch!! Drove up from Tahoe and pulled into Murrin Park?? and set up a TR. Met a guy who felt bad that we had driven so far to TR!! haha
He had no gear but was willing to use what we had, which was very little, and take us up Deidre. Did the climb and went our ways. Did not see him again.
Curious if anyone know who he is?? I am on the left opening the bottle and he is on the right with glasses on. Super nice guy and good climber!!
Dave
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knucko
climber
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Dec 20, 2016 - 02:56pm PT
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Tami- LOL yeah a long drive!! When you are young these sound like good ideas.
GCF thanks for the possible ID!!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Dec 20, 2016 - 04:52pm PT
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Darren Melnychuk can be found on Facebook, at least.
A friend's photo of the Chief yesterday, which he put on FB. Showing our pet rock in a different perspective.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Dec 20, 2016 - 05:57pm PT
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knucko, does this look like your Diedre partner 93/94?
If so, the Melnychuk ID could be the right one.
He and I are on the route just left of Diedre.
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Dlc
climber
Squamish
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Dec 20, 2016 - 06:28pm PT
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With the ponytail it could be Ray Mattis (sp?). He never really had any gear back then.
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scaredycat
Trad climber
Berkeley,CA
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Dec 20, 2016 - 07:08pm PT
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Can I come live with y'all. It's not going away.
Just kidding, I won't do it, so there's no need to go all anti-Yank. Not kidding about it not going away.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 21, 2016 - 09:14am PT
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FIRST SKI DESCENT OF CRUEL SHOES
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2016 - 09:05pm PT
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Great stuff guys and gals! I love those retro photos!!
Tami, another amazing tale!! I love hearing about these adventures!! Thanks for the photos!
Knucko! Thanks for your contribution!! Classic squamish!! Using what you have to get it done!
When DRU???? Pics???
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2016 - 11:53am PT
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Merry Christmas everyone!!!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 25, 2016 - 06:49pm PT
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HUMBUG!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2016 - 04:58pm PT
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Lol!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2017 - 11:57am PT
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Long time no post! I've been out of the game lately due to a deep tissue wound on my sensory deprived big toe. Kyle invited me to come hang out at the crag yesterday, so I snapped a few pics.
It was a brisk cool winters day, but the sun shone brightly on our backs, warming us with it's pleasant rays.
Penny Lane was the place to be, due to the aspect, which provided a natural wind break for us.
Kieran and Marc were working on smashing windows.
Kyle floated Crime of the Century
The gang at Penny Lane
I hung out for a couple of hours until my toes started to freeze, then I bid the gang adieu and headed to Mag's for a chimi.
Anyone else been getting out in this gorgeous weather?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2017 - 02:45pm PT
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Thanks Greg! You will be the first one to know when I can skin up again!!! It'll be a couple more weeks I imagine.
Here's a couple more pics from Crime.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2017 - 03:08pm PT
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Ha! My right pinky finger still hurts from the time i fell on the opening move and pulled my dip joint. Even Kyle was saying yesterday that his fingers weren't immune to the pain. I think the more you submit yourself to torture, the easier it gets to ignore it...
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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All i know is my fingers are too old for crime
Well, duh! Too old and too tired from typing on all those politard threads. Have you no shame? ;)
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Oooh! Ow!
Never thought I'd see climbers on Smashing Windows.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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All i know is my fingers are too old for crime
Even when I was young my fingers weren't quite up to the task on that route. Oh, sure, like everybody else, I toproped it, cuz it's easy to hang a rope on. And then, on one day, not realizing that the stupidity index was so high, my friend Chuck and I decided it was time to lead it.
I don't remember which one of us drew the short straw and went first, but for the next little while we took turns getting the rope one piece higher. I'd go up, get something in, pretend to try the next move, and then melt off and get lowered. Then him, then me, etc.
Eventually we got up to the point where I was leading in the area that would probably be the crux if every move wasn't a crux for us. I passed the highest piece, made two or three moves, started pumping out, and frantically worked to get something in.
Success!
Well, partial success. I did place what was probably a solid piece, and did yard up a few armfuls of rope. But, just at the point of clipping, I lost it. As my feet came off, I managed to hook the biner on that high piece with one finger.
And then hung for just long enough to realize that my finger wasn't going to hold me, that the rope was in that hand and now completely unclippable, and that, with so much rope out...
Interesting couple of seconds.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2017 - 01:22pm PT
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Wayno- There's not enough climbing content to keep him busy!!
Andy- These guys are slab aficionados! Have you been out lately?
Tami- Not quite but the ground has sure eroded. The cheater start rock is a constant fixture.
Dave- Funny story! Sounds like it was a close one!! Did you hurt your finger? How far did you end up from the deck?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2017 - 04:28pm PT
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Awesome looking at the above pix when I look out my back window here in VanTown to 10cm of snow on the ground and it puking still.
I know right!! Such sudden change!!
I went for a little walk today to witness the bluffs in their white blanket.
We have received quite a bit of snow here in Squamish in the last four days. It was a couple feet deep when I postholed up to Penny Lane this morning.
Such a gorgeous day!!
Edit
Sure would have been Dru! A little more cold weather and it would have set up nicely!! Everything was melting off in the sun as i was snapping away though..
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Looks like time was ripe for a frontpoint ascent of Smashing Windows... just look at that white stripe.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Crime of the Century and the other two routes were cleaned in early May 1978, over a nice weekend. The Crime routes commemorating my mother's liking for crime fiction, as well as my placing two (belay) bolts at the top of Crime of the Century, plus two fixed pins, one at the start, one at the end. Perhaps the first such evil-doing at Squamish. Even when I cleaned it, I was pretty sure that Crime of the Century might be beyond me, and I've never cleanly toproped it. But I thought it was worth cleaning anyway, for someone else.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2017 - 05:44pm PT
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Excellent work Anders! We are particularly fond of those bolts, since they make the descent and toproping so much easier!
Now if you could just place a few at the top of Penny Lane, Ryan D wouldn't have to hear so many domestic climber squabbles.... ;)
"WHERE'S THE FUGGING ANCHOR??????"
:)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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The 20th annual Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival starts this Friday. It has grown since its modest beginning in 1998. This year's festival is from Friday, February 10th - Saturday, February 18th. Well worth attending, with lots of speakers, socializing, and films. Climbers and culture aren't always immiscible.
http://www.vimff.org
Speaking of which, as part of VIMFF, Tricouni is speaking on Wednesday at UBC. (2017 is also the centenary of the Varsity Outdoor Club.) First ascents and exploration throughout the Coast Ranges, and maybe even a story or two about climbing at Squamish in the 1960s. Not to be missed.
https://vimff.org/program/ubc-climbing-show/
VIMFF will not include a show on rap-bolting, rap-pinning, or the placement of unnecessary and hazardous toprope anchors, or for that matter the tidy removal of the latter.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Thanks for the look at the Bluffs and environs, Mike.
I was out in Lighthouse Park last Thursday, putting together a meandering boulder traverse in warm sun. Same old same old, but there was something unexpected, too.
Thanks for the news of upcoming events, Anders.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sorry I won't see you there, Tami. There might be a few lies and slander from a demented little corner of the Coast Range told, but then again there might not be!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2017 - 01:19pm PT
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I bet it doesn't look like that today Andy!! Thanks for the photo!
Anders- Thanks for the reminder! I was hoping to make it but it looks like I might be working that day out of town.
Glenn- Enjoy your presentation i'm sure you will knock it out of the park!!
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mickeymouse
Boulder climber
california
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Feb 13, 2017 - 08:14pm PT
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Managed to find some dry streaks of stone yesterday, this pic is from burgers and fries, the starts were pretty interesting! Also climbed center street which was mostly dry and a fun lead.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 13, 2017 - 09:26pm PT
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Not sure if anyone has picked it up yet, but the Feb issue of Rock and Ice has a pretty good down to earth interview with the Honnold, but also a very well done tribute to Scott Cosgrove. I never got a chance to meet him, but I know he was close with at least a couple members of the Squamish community, and I think they would appreciate it.
Great pics Mike et al. I made it up to Squam for a day a couple weeks back, met up with Ryan and Kyle, and then proceeded to get shut down on everything. Myself and the missus are moving to Squamish in a couple months though for the summer, so I'm quite looking forward to that.
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rookers
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Apr 22, 2017 - 10:20am PT
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Just to kick the thread for Andy...
He was a close family friend. My younger son is named for him. He had just finished up crashing my place in Boulder and climbing in Indian Creek with me and a few others when he perished.
He was climbing at Cookie and had just led Red Zinger. He was attempting to set up a yo-yo for Mike Forkash his partner. When he discovered that the then common 50m rope was not long enough, he swung over to Meat Grinder, untied and began to down climb unroped. Mike did not witness Andy's fall, but Andy missed the ledge at the base and went all the way to the dirt.
I hope to be able to visit his plaque someday, but a subsequent injury incurred while doing a scuba dive in a high Andean lake has left this in doubt.
RIP Andy.
Spookily enough he was featured on Climbing Magazines calendar that year, in the same month as his demise, leading 'The Ghost' at Squamish.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2017 - 03:21pm PT
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Rookers, Tami, who is Andy? Please tell us more, i would love to hear some stories!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2017 - 08:24pm PT
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Thanks for the beta Jim and Tami! Andy sounds like a solid fellow! A good reminder to double check our systems so we can stick around for the long run and contribute like Tami alluded to!
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Apr 26, 2017 - 09:54pm PT
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Great to see Big Mike steering this barge again!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2017 - 11:52am PT
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Thanks Todd. It's good to be at the helm.
It takes all kinds eh Jim? Climbing crosses many social boundaries.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 29, 2017 - 07:06pm PT
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Didn't live to contribute their full extent to their community - as they most certainly would have done. Their deaths still cause pain decades after their passing.
And Long-Gone-John Howard. Sure do miss that man.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2017 - 12:54pm PT
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It's sunny here today Tami!!
Tell us about John Dave!! What is your fondest memory??!
I have pics and stories from recent adventures i'll try and get up soon, but for now a shot of Ryan D on one of his north wall boulder scrub jobs!!
Jawa Party V6?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Good energy, Mike, good energy, Ryan.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Tell us about John Dave!! What is your fondest memory??!
Overwhelmed with both work and personal business right now, but I'll try to get something up this weekend. John was an incredible climber, an amazing man, and a wonderful friend. And, despite the fact that most of you who hang here on ST have never even heard of him, he was, for a brief time, the center around which Squamish climbing revolved.
RIP brother.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2017 - 01:27pm PT
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Good energy, Mike, good energy, Ryan.
Thanks Andy! Nice to see you here! Have you been getting out lately?? Got any photos for us? I miss seeing your work!!
Awesome boulder problem. That rock is a cool shape. When are ya gonna put together the clothing optional bouldering area ? :-D hahahahaha
I love that it looks like a Jawa!! Any area is clothing optional Tami! As long as you don't mind a few thousand mosquito bites!!
Overwhelmed with both work and personal business right now, but I'll try to get something up this weekend.
I hear you Dave! I'm in the process of moving to Squamish, as well as a million other things right now to get my life organized so I understand completely!
I can't wait to hear about John though! I love hearing about everyone's adventures and being that you guys were lucky enough to have done a lot of this classic stuff first, it adds a ton of historical context, and gives us "youngsters" a better appreciation of what climbing at Squamish was, is, and should become.
I promised some goodies so I shouldn't disappoint, but this first day out was just a little walk through the vertical world of the apron in late March.
Kyle and I needed to get "high" so we headed up the apron trail to the base of Diedre one day when the rain abated. It sounds easy, but the cruxes lied in skirting the huge snow pile at the base of the slabs, and post holing through the next on at the base of the soaking wet, pine needle filled groove that heads up to the base of Snake.
It was fairly straight forward from there, but we took extreme care when stepping on the super slippery slimy roots, trusting our saturated grips much more than our approach shoes when dealing with any wood related foot placements.
It was nice to see the Apron again from below.
Kyle of course couldn't resist the urge to test out the drenched slabs..
I don't know what it is about being at the base of a cliff, but the rock just seems to calm and centre my being. All feels right in the world even if it's the furthest thing from the truth at that moment. I needed that influence on this particular day and i'm really glad that Kyle came along to join me on my adventure because I probably wouldn't have bothered going up there otherwise. Thanks buddy!
We wandered out to the top of Al's new route and the sound was looking gorgeous in a stormy kind of way.
Anyone know the status/grade ect on this rig??!! I should have asked Al when I saw him at Burgers yesterday!!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Better than ever, Mike.
I will put up images, soon.
Glad to see this thread come back.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Nice to see this wonderful thread resurrected. This is a climbing forum, right?
Big Mike, how about Milk Run in July?!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2017 - 08:13pm PT
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Better than ever, Mike.
Thanks Andy! If you are referring to my writing I'd like to thank Tami, Katie Ives and Matt Samet for their patience, encouragement and mentorship! I really learned a lot working with them for my Alpinist article!!
I'm glad to be back. I've really been missing it!!
Big Mike, how about Milk Run in July?!
Sounds fun! Hopefully it gets warm and dries it out by then!! We also need a ropegun!! That 10d pitch kicked my a$$ last time I led it and I was much stronger then!! Lol
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2017 - 07:07pm PT
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You're welcome Tami! Thanks for the inspiration and the knowledge you imparted!
That it is Jim, that it is! Let's go for a run up there this summer! Thanks for the vid this morning! It was a great way to start the day!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2017 - 10:12am PT
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Bump for Tami and Jim!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2017 - 07:15pm PT
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It's been so beautiful lately I've been out a bunch! Anyone else so lucky?
Burgers was nice and quiet today!
Erin and I went for a walk up to the top of Ronins after she got home from work.
And i'm heading out again now for a couple!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2017 - 08:57pm PT
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It sure was Tami! There are some pretty big boulders under the badge! It must have been devastation! When did the main chunk fall off? I remember reading a historical account about the whole valley shaking but i can't remember what year it was!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2017 - 09:13pm PT
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Relic and I went for a run up the Apron today. Our plan was to check out Kris Wild's new north Apron route, but Mh2 and his partner Sierra beat us to it. We considered waiting for them, but weren't uber stoked on climbing over Kris's fixed lines which are still in place since he's not done scrubbing yet. We decided to do Calculus instead which is always fun and got it done in good time.
Kris's route looks really fun though! I can't wait to try it! Looks it would be a fun ushba with all the lines still in!!
I took a few shots on route, but we were moving so fast my phone got all foggy and this pano at the top was the only one that came out decent.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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May 11, 2017 - 07:43am PT
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Really nice to see you and Relic out, Mike.
Sierra and I enjoyed the Kris Wild route but my faulty memory was partly to blame. I was pretty sure he had announced that part of the route was open, but clearly that was the upper part, not the lower. The fixed lines, the dirt, and the basic understanding that routes are better cleaned starting from the top and working down were not enough to straighten me out.
edit:
a faster party above us
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 11, 2017 - 08:03am PT
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Nice pictures ,
The double standard on this site is evident
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2017 - 11:18am PT
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Thanks Andy! Awesome pics!! Sorry to out you! I kinda opened my big mouth there didn't I.. Hopefully Kris is cool with it.
Gnome, it was just a joke bud. I dunno what happened between you guys on another thread, but I think that would be the place to discuss it. We like to try and keep this thread on topic if we can. Thanks in advance for your co-operation on this matter.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 15, 2017 - 10:12am PT
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^^^^ Kanuckians dew the weerdest shite! Wuz he gonna ride that thang down?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 20, 2017 - 08:18pm PT
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It's a holiday weekend, right? And the weather forecast was excellent, right?
So, how is it that late on Saturday morning we had the entire Grand Wall area to ourselves?
Yeah, we're up in Squampton again. But, because we didn't get what you could call an early start, we almost nixed the idea of going up to the base of the Grand. And when we got to the parking lot, things were even worse. We rolled through the entire mega-parking area and found not one space. Four million people were there ahead of us.
But just as we reached the exit from the furthest lot, someone pulled out. We debated not bothering. But most of the people we'd seen looked like backside trail hikers, so we thought, "Well, we're here, so let's head up and maybe there'll be some climb without a five-party lineup."
All four million must have been hiking the backside trail, cuz when we reached the base of the wall we were alone. So we hiked over to Arrowroot, with which Mari has a vendetta. As we were roping up, four people arrived, and set up for Rutabaga. Nice folks. One of them led Rutabaga while Mari led Arrowroot (and aced it), but he cleaned his gear on rappel and they all left. So we climbed Rutabaga as well, in total peace.
The only other people we saw were a couple on Millenium Falcon. No noise at all from the Exasperator area.
So wtf? It's been a shitty spring on the Coast, and everyone from Whistler to Seattle is overloaded with climbing energy, so why did we have the most popular crag within a thousand miles almost to ourselves?
Where were you all?
No pictures from the climbing part of the day. But Mari did lead it clean, and I dragged my ancient bones up it without falling on TR. And then we went out to the spit and watched the kite boarders getting major air, and then hunted out one of the new breweries. If you haven't already tried it, check out Backcountry Brewing. Beer as good as you can get in Seattle (that is, beer better than anything you can get anywhere else in BC).
Kite-boarding shot first, then the brewery:
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2017 - 09:45pm PT
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Nice shot Eric! It's way more fun to climb then walk around! Lol
Lol Reilly! You would totally do that wouldn't you!
Dave- I dunno bud! Maybe everyone is in the midst of moving like me!! Gimme a ring next time you guys are up! I visited the Backcountry brewery for my first time last night! The double IPA was a favourite to be certain!
I'm headed to the island at the moment to go check out some basalt at Crest Creek. The weather is excellent so i'm stoked to get to play some in it! Climbing has taken a backseat these days to getting my affairs in order, but i hope to rectify that shortly!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 21, 2017 - 06:58pm PT
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Just a brief note to follow up on the strange absence of climbers we reported yesterday -- today was more of the same. Or should it be less of the same?
Whatever, for the second day of a gorgeous weekend, we visited a popular area and saw almost no one.
Our plan was to climb in the morning, and then head home to Seattle (Monday isn't a holiday there. For some reason they don't care about Victoria's birthday). So, after breakfast we headed south, figuring we'd stop at the Papoose. And, like yesterday, the parking lots were fully packed. We drove around for a while and finally found a spot, but we were thinking we'd be facing crowds on all the climbs.
Nope. I don't know where the hordes were headed, but it wasn't to the Papoose. There were only two other parties on the whole crag.
Has everyone who climbed at Squamish given up and gone into mountain biking, kite boarding or real estate? What is going on?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 21, 2017 - 07:46pm PT
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Dija check the Bluffs? Apron ? Murrin ?
None of the above. Although the few times we drove past the Apron on the weekend, I did look up and only ever saw a couple of parties.
Did every Squamish regular go somewhere else for the long weekend?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2017 - 09:06pm PT
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Cool story Tami! What month were you cleaning arrowroot? Feburary?
Dave, just enjoy it while it lasts buddy! The hoards are out there, but the traffic for the Chief hike, probably put people off the Grand Wall area, and the gondola is resposible for the gong show parking you experienced at the Papoose. Good news is, the climbing is excellent if you can get parking!!
Nice to see you here Jim!
Good to hear you are getting out Anders! We should all get together soon!!
My day at Crest creek was enjoyable. We are currently at the Ridge Roadhouse in Gold River, the only internet source around!!
More later.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2017 - 07:57pm PT
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Interesting Tami! What's the beta on caving up there?
Crest Creek was fun. I was treated to a gorgeous sunset on the way over Saturday night.
The crags themselves were basalt formations with a few incipient cracks and a lot of moderate sport routes.
Great bandit camping was abundant near by and a dip in the lake after climbing yesterday proved very refreshing.
We are currently waiting for the ferry and I am about to settle in to Bruce Kay's new masterpiece. "Autonomy Mastery and Purpose; in the avalanche patch."
Hope everyone else had a fantastic weekend in the sun!
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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May 22, 2017 - 08:12pm PT
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Thanks for the mention of Bruce's new book, Mike. Didn't know about it previously, and bought the ebook just now after a quick search.
Am looking forward to reading it!
http://avalanchepatch.com
What a travesty that BKay is no longer visible on the Taco.... unless he's ... well, I won't say.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2017 - 09:40pm PT
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Thanks for the inspiration Jim! I long to get up there!! It looks amazing! Tell us a story from your time up there!!
Kulun_Shan You are welcome. I miss Bruce's input here as well. I told him he should return, but his interest was lacking after his ousting.
Fair enough Tami! I'm well aware of the cost of posting here. After posting photos of Mercy Street, the next weekend it had a lineup at it's base!!
Fortunately most of our routes require traffic to stay clean, so it is a necessary evil.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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May 23, 2017 - 12:03am PT
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No climbers likely means everyone is bouldering? Or in the gym?
Jim B, I have to disagree with you. There is no comparison between Royal Arches and the regular route on Snowpatch. Snowpatch is 19-20 pitches after an involved approach, rated 5.8, requires a series of rappels down the far side of the peak, and some snow and ice skills to get back to the hut. Royal Arches has been soloed car to car in a couple of hours, or less.
Here is Doug H. from Cranbrook, reading the summit record, while being watched closely by a pink flamingo. There were flamingos on several Bugaboo summits.
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domngo
climber
Canada
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May 24, 2017 - 07:26am PT
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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May 24, 2017 - 10:02am PT
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My niece just got a soccer scholarship to Quest and will be starting there in the fall, maybe I'll finally make it up there.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2017 - 03:40pm PT
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Snowpatch sure looks fun!!
Congratulations Niaomi! You've done us all proud!
So sorry to hear about Jesse. I still can't believe it's true! That's some crazy stuff!! It's like a real life troll!! (Fitting considering JJ's affinity for such things..)
I've got some pics of him i'll post up soon in his memory. Truly a sad state of affairs! I hope it is resolved soon!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2017 - 03:47pm PT
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Here's some eye candy for y'all from my favorite new post work solo!!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Thanks Mike!
Great Squamish aspect well imaged.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2017 - 10:58pm PT
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Thanks Andy! I really enjoyed finding myself in the position to capture that image and it think it comes through.
I'm good buddy! Call me I'll tell ya all about it!! ;)
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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The talk about Snowpatch Spire brings back memories.
Climbed it in 82 with a guy I met in the hut.
He had a rope, I had gear and we soloed until the headwall and roped up for 3 pitches.
He pulls the rope out of the pack and it is one of the worst pieces of sh*t I have seen with tape over core shots etc. It was good enough for rapping but I am glad we never did the fall test.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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The route beside Calculus is not quite finished yet. I have a bit more work to do before the grand opening, but I will keep everyone posted. With a bit of assistance, I'm hoping to have a bit of a party going for opening day up on Memorial Ledge. (BBQ and refreshments as parties top out!)
I would appreciate if folks refrain from using my fixed lines as a rap route. Some of my intermediate pieces have been unclipped or removed. This makes ascending from below more hazardous as the pieces are used to isolate the rope from edges. Rapping down the gritty lines also chews through your device fast.
If you choose to huck a soloist lap on my ropes, please leave things clipped in as you found them, and walk off instead of rapping them.
Details of the route:
Long Time No See
5.9, 9 pitches (9,9,7,7,2,8,8,7,8)
FA Kris Wild, Paul Sobchauk Sept 2014
Thanks
Kris Wild
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2017 - 06:48pm PT
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Nice pics Eric! We need to get out soon!!
Thanks for the tale AP! That must have been a been hair raising!
Frostback- Kris has told the tale. I've been keeping tight lipped as to not blow the climb up too much. It's really fun, but it's not ready for the average climber yet, and an ascent would be more fun for those with a little more experience under their belt.
Kris- Thanks for all your hard work!! The route is awesome! I can't wait to climb it clean, and would be happy to join you for some scrubbing if we ever get the right conditions!!
to Kris's point, It would be a crappy rap route. the ropes have knots to pass and it would be way faster just to rap bad pants party. When I've soloed it, I've always walked off.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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The "A" team climbed Long Time, No See on Saturday. As Kris advises, the lower pitches in particular are still a bit scruffy. Almost like mountaineering. Apart from the fixed ropes, that is.
We did the first two pitches as one - more or less. Not 100% sure we were en route. It seemed harder than 5.9, and involves mandatory off width and large cams (#4 & #3). We must have combined two other pitches, as the 5.8 and 5.8 pitches were for us the fourth and fifth. The first 5.8 pitch is rather exciting, and even includes three fixed pitons, perhaps from people who thought they were doing the lower half of Squamish Buttress. The second 5.8 pitch, leading to the north end of Broadway, seemed harder than 5.8.
The upper two pitches are fine, and a nice "add on". They probably more or less coincide with Pioneer, a route climbed by Hamish Mutch and Jim Baldwin in 1962.
As Kris mentions, someone seems to have been monkeying with the ropes and anchors. Please leave them alone!
Overall, a stout adventure, but not ready for prime time quite yet. It'd be a step up from the four crack routes to its right, in terms of difficulty - Calculus, South Arete, Saint Vitus, and Vector.
Note that there is a bolt belay at the end of the first (short) pitch - the bolt belay for Start from Scratch. But otherwise you have to create all the other belays.
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pixel
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Jul 24, 2017 - 12:00pm PT
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A week ago we pooled our biggest cams and longest ropes and hiked up to the Cirque of the Uncrackables. Two people stepped up to take on the two most moderate climbs, March of the Kitchen Utensils (5.9) and Bop Till You Drop (10b) (in all innocence, I said to Marc, "You warm up on 10b, right?"). They got their money's worth. Our leader on Bop managed to fight his way up, but the leader on Kitchen Utensils lowered off after he fell at the crux and cut the rope across the edge of the crack. But there was plenty of rope left, so we tied into the other end and tried again, ignoring the little tuft of blue nylon on the edge of the crack.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 24, 2017 - 02:08pm PT
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They got their money's worth.
There should be a note in the guidebook about the fact that climbs in the Cirque of the Uncrackables are not graded on the standard Yosemite Decimal System, but rather on the "MA" system.
That is, March of the Kitchen Utensils is actually 5.9MA. As in "5.9 My Ass!".
Maybe Cobra Crack is reasonably graded 5.14b (I wouldn't know), but everything else...
Go try Boogie til you Puke, and report back. And while 11b might be about right for Scimitar if you're on a toprope, leading it would be a different story.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 24, 2017 - 08:31pm PT
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Nah. I've climbed far more at Index in the last fifteen years than at Squamish, and am used to sandbag grading. It's just weird that that one crag is so out of line with the rest of Squamish, grading-wise. (With the caveat that off-widths are beyond my understanding anyway.)
But then, grading systems are silly. When your hands touch the rock, there are only two grades: either you can get up it, or you can't.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jul 24, 2017 - 11:01pm PT
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Here's another amputated rope, from about 10 days ago. I was rap cleaning a new route, not at Squamish! when I pulled off a small block. Dumb, very dumb. Fortunately I was looking up, and saw it coming. I dived to the right. The rope was not so lucky.
The 6th piece, about 35m, is still up at the crag.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 25, 2017 - 12:44pm PT
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So much rock...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2017 - 09:09pm PT
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Anders- Good to hear you enjoyed the route! You think it's harder than St Vitus or Vector though? I don't know about that, but I've only top roped it.
Pixel- Nice work!! Those climbs are so fun! March is the only climb I've ever crossed my elbows to get a good jam in on! Lol! I
Scary about the rope!! I'm glad you guys are ok!
Dave- I found March hard, but I thought it was just because I'm an awfulwidth rookie. It seems like if you had the technique down you could make it feel fairly secure..
But then, grading systems are silly. When your hands touch the rock, there are only two grades: either you can get up it, or you can't.
You said it bud!
Hamie- Scary stuff!! Thank goodness you are in one piece! Time for a new cleaning rope!
Dru- Damn!! Hmmm maybe i could be happy in Powell River.. ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2017 - 06:28pm PT
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Nice one Frostback! You've got me intrigued as to your identity! I still haven't figured it out!
I wrote this awhile back but I never got around to posting it.
Kyle and I headed up one day after the rain abated and the slabs had just started to dry out. The water was still streaming into the diagonal crack of Rambles, as I started out on simul, but the slab below it was dry, which offered some comfort.
Kyle had taken to soloing Rambles to Banana peel under these conditions, which gave me confidence that the ascent was indeed possible. The Rambles diagonal seemed much longer than usual, and very insecure as I gingerly foot traversed the crack. I avoided the puddles as much as possible and found myself placing a lot more gear than I would normally need.
When the diagonal ended I was awarded with some extremely wet streaks to transfer to the slabs, and I dried my shoes on my shorts and chalked the holds to make the moves feel more secure.
I managed to get on the slabs and made my way up to the final moves when I started running out of draws. I down climbed to retrieve one for the crux, not willing to skip any bolts under these conditions. Once I reached the crux mantle, there was a spring running from the horizontal underneath and I continually greased off the hold with the drenched rubber of my left foot.
I got so frustrated I had to hold the rope for a break since Kyle was still unanchored on the slabs. After a couple more efforts and some beta-encouragement from Kyle, I was extremly tired and frazzled, so I clipped my safety to the draw and regain my composure.
A quick rest made all the difference, and I successfully grabbed the jug and clipped my the final bolt with my cordalette as a draw then continue up to the forested ledge below the start of Banana Peel.
The slab at the start of Banana Peel was extremely insecure and felt greasy to the touch, as I gently padded up it with far more care than usual. There was one more hurdle to this ascent; the steep step onto the slab after I clipped the bolt to enter the upper right groove towards the first belay. I have always chosen this runout path for some reason, preferring the moves over the step up after the horizonal.
The rock was dry, but the black lichen was still slick and I chalked the holds, hoping that I would be able to overcome the wetness once again. My hopes were dashed however after my right foot greased off the slab, and Kyle caught me on a hip belay.
After several more attempts and a few curses, Kyle advised me to take my time, and I stopped to assess the situation. A sober second though led me to tension traverse to the right and I finally managed to gain the groove, and pad very timidly up to the upper horizontal crack. Normally I follow the groove all the way to the right, but after spotting some more of that dark lichen over there, I decided for a more straight up approach was more prudent. By the time I reached the upper horizontal, I was more gripped than I can ever remember being on bpeel, and the relief was overwhelming when I finally sunk my fingers into the crack.
The rest of the ascent was fairly straight forward, the ramp below the crux was predictably wet, but I tipped toed by on the glacial polish.
Bpeel.. Slippery when wet..
We flew up the final pitches and sent boomstick with no delays.
The apron in late april. Can't beat it!
Then we climbed the first pitch of the buttress and hung a rope from the second belay on one of Kyle's projects.
Not a bad view from the base of the buttress..
Overall a fantastic spring ascent, pushing the boundaries of possibility as always..
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 28, 2017 - 08:13pm PT
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Nice one Frostback! You've got me intrigued as to your identity! I still haven't figured it out!
Can you think of a regular Squamish poster whose avatar disappeared about the time Frostback showed up?
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 29, 2017 - 08:28am PT
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Can you think of a regular Squamish poster whose avatar disappeared about the time Frostback showed up?
Yes. C'mon Mike you should be able t' figure this one out. Look at the political postings.
Who is hungry? lol.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2017 - 09:31am PT
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Ha! You can tell I haven't had time to follow supertopo lately!! Lol
The Foodeater has been missing though.. ;)
Hi Greg! :)
We need to do a get together soon!! Psyche Ledge is coming up!!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 29, 2017 - 09:43am PT
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I surely hope I can make psyche ledge this year. I miss it.
Mike, I'm up in the Okanogan. Wait, that would be down and over for you guys.
Come by for a visit if you have time. I know you are busy with that tax stuff but I would gladly pay you to wash my windows. It would at least cover your costs.
Open invitation for any of my "frosty" friends to the north. There is some cragging near here and fishing too. I will send my contact info to Big Mike.
Cheers, all.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2017 - 03:20pm PT
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Thanks Mike, for reminding us all about how pleasant the Chief's climate in the good months is, once you elevate yourself out of the stagnant air of the parking lot.
Thanks Jim! I hope you are on the mend!!
Wayno- I can't wait buddy!! Hopefully soon!!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 31, 2017 - 04:14pm PT
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Why frostback and not foodeater?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2017 - 05:22pm PT
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Jim- I loved your 29 palms tale!! Thanks.
Greg- Thanks for the origin story! The funny thing is that is exactly what Farouk called me here! Hence my avatar!
Anders- Yep! It sure was smokey today!! I had a chance to take some special visitors on a tour of the Apron!
Thisjustin on Diedre 5.8
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2017 - 07:13pm PT
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Lol! Ya it was definetly a bit greasy Greg!! Super fun though and quiet too!!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Anders- Yep! It sure was smokey today!!
Yes, it was/is very smokey here in Republic. We need to build a wall to keep that stuff from pouring over the border.
A big thank you to the firefighters everywhere.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Hey all, long time no post. Thought I'd take a moment to share/spray about some adventures this summer.
I've been spending more time in Squamish this year than others. So much so that I'm actually spending more time resting than climbing, so I can put the effort in where it matters.
Anyways, at the campground picnic tables one evening, a friend introduced me to this guy Ethan, from California. He was stoked on pretty much everything, and we talked about possibly linking the Grand Wall with Sunset Strip or a similar route.
Monday was going to be the day for our linkup, but Sunday night I wasn't feeling too stoked, and had to be down in the city by the afternoon anyways, so I asked Ethan how he felt about just climbing the Grand, "really really fast". He was down with that plan, so we arranged for a 0700 start the next morning.
The last time I tried to climb the Grand with any sort of speed style was with Luke several years ago. We pitched everything out except for Mercy Me to the base of the Pillar, and went from ground to Bellygood in about 3.25 hours.
With Ethan, we simuled from the ground to the base of the Pillar with me leading, then swapped leads so Ethan led linking the pillar to the base of Perry's, then we pitched out Perry's to Bellygood, with a semi respectable time of 2.5
We knew we could do better, so we decided to go again on Saturday evening.
Saturday came, and I had made other plans with another friend to climb Millennium Falcon. Aside from a long lineup at the base, we made fairly reasonable time, making it back down to the parking lot by 3 in the afternoon. He peaced out back to the city, and I took some time to relax and try to nap.
Ethan and I met up later on to discuss rack and logistics. We brought a single rack up to #3, with an additional #1, and one nut for the crux on the Sword. We also brought a mini traxion for simuling, and I brought a fixe pulley to mitigate rope drag on Mercy Me.
We left the parking lot around 7:15, and upon reaching the base, there was a party on top of the Split Pillar, who we were so worried about passing, we didn't even notice the party on Apron Strings. We asked the belayer on Apron Strings if we could pass them, once he had followed and reached the anchor, and he said it wouldn't be a problem. It ended up not being a problem since they went to the anchor on top of the Flake anyways haha.
I left the ground at about 8 exactly. I placed three pieces of gear in the first pitch of Apron Strings, the mini trax on the anchor, and one piece at the crux on the second pitch. My next piece was the first bolt on Mercy Me, and then the anchor. I placed my pulley just before traversing right, but the rope drag by the time I reached the base of the Pillar was still horrendous. I think the only way to fix that is to use a shorter rope.
We swapped leads again, and when Ethan reached the top of the Pillar, the party we had seen up there before had just brought the second up to the base of Perry's. We yelled at them to ask if it was okay if we passed, but turns out they were setting up a portaledge anyways.
Ethan again linked up to the top of the bolt ladder, but then continued into Perry's, while I ran out of rope so started climbing the Pillar at the same time. Just as I was starting to get some jams in, the rope stopped moving! I climbed up a bit more to get some solid jams, but then spent the next five minutes alternating hands and shaking out, waiting for Ethan to start climbing again. Finally the rope started moving, and I figured he was right in the layback now, so because I didn't want to hose him, I laybacked the majority of the Pillar, since it was faster than jamming.
At the top of the Pillar, I took maybe ten seconds to rest before continuing up the Sword. Ethan had placed a nut at the crux, but he had really sunk it in there, and it was too high for me to get out from the good stance below, so I had to climb a bit higher in order to get it out. By the time I managed to retrieve it, I was so pumped that I couldn't even execute my usual sequence for the crux, so I somehow managed to change my beta on the fly and still send.
I hauled ass up the rest of the pitch, batmanned the boat rope that is currently hanging over the bolt ladder, and then took about a minute to shake out on the jugs near the anchor that the portaledge party was occupying. I seconded Perry's clean, although I have no idea how, since I had been pumped for the last two pitches. Upon reaching the anchor at the top of Perry's where Ethan was belaying me from, I told him, dude, can you please do the last two pitches, I need a rest, I am actually going to die. He said back, nah, you know them better than me, you should do them, so we flipped the rope, I grabbed the gear, and again somehow managed to link to Bellygood without falling.
I had so much rope drag that I placed the micro trax right before the mantle onto Bellygood so I could pull up some slack without worrying about being pulled off backwards when I made the move.
When Ethan reached the anchor, my timer read 1:34. We had shaved almost an hour off our last attempt.
I know the current roped record including the Chimneys is just under an hour, but come on, its Alex Honnold holding that. I like to think that our run is pretty good for mortals, and it's a long way from when I first sent the Grand!
One of my proudest achievements in climbing so far.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Heading toward minimal, Soloclimber. Good progress.
Welcome to Justin! Great photo of Diedre, Mike.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Haha. It certainly isn't Diedre, either. Appearance-wise.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Man, I've got to get my shoulder in shape so I can climb Diedre. Just about everyone I know has climbed that thing.
Getting on Rambles a few years put my lead head back in a good place.
Squamish is a beautiful place, thanks to all who keep this thread going.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Turtle mountaineering. Has that story been told ? Can it be told as long as JH is alive ? :-D
Some stories are better left untold.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Where is BmacD these days?
Last thing he told me (at the Psyche Ledge gathering two years ago) was that he had to quit posting on ST, and even get rid of his cell phone, because the instant he went online or made a phone call, the Chinese gangs would track him down.
I wasn't quite sure what to make of this, and became even more confused when, a little later, he told Mari to give him a call on his cell phone if she was ever looking for someone to climb with at Squamish.
Maybe someone who has seen him since then can update us.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Aug 11, 2017 - 07:52am PT
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The Apron project is finally done! Thanks to everyone for your patience while I plugged away at it for the last two years. Big thanks to the few gullible friends (George, Stu, Adrian, Toby) who lent a hand here and there.
Long Time No See
5.9, 9p
FA Kris Wild, Paul Sobchak, Sept 2014
The route is open for business. Fixed lines were removed Wednesday Aug 2.
All stations are fixed. Begin on a ledge just right of Start From Scratch ( this is 20m up and left of the start to Calculus Direct.
If you're wondering where it is, it's the gleaming white stripe left of Calculus Crack that can be seen from the International Space Station.
For some reason, the ST photo uploader is claiming that all of my other pictures that are 4.5-5.5 MB are over the 8MB limit. Grrr. Here's a link to the Squamish Climbing FB group if you'd like some other photos and the Topo.
[url="https://www.facebook.com/groups/squamishrockclimbing/http://"]https://www.facebook.com/groups/squamishrockclimbing/http://[/url]
Please get out and give it a try if you're in the area!
Kris
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Aug 11, 2017 - 11:27am PT
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the gleaming white stripe left of Calculus Crack that can be seen from the International Space Station.
No need for evidence, here.
Well done!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 11, 2017 - 11:33am PT
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Well done, indeed. Looks terrific.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Aug 25, 2017 - 02:03pm PT
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Got out climbing a few weeks ago for the first time in a while with my brother while he was in town.
We had plans of linking up angles crest and mount haubrich via bicycle and sailboat from Britannia Beach with a bivy.
After spending the day chilling at belays behind the typical Saturday crowd and racing down the squaw trail to our bikes and bivy gear we decided mags burritos was a more tangible goal than biking up the Shannon creek fsr in the dark.
So after Mexican food and a few beers at the brutal pub we returned to the boat for a nights rest.
The following day after a classic breakfast at the mountain burger house we got a hot lap
In on the Smoke Bluff connection then set our sails southbound back to Britannia in some good wind.
Here is little video I scrapped together of our Angels Crest ascent...
https://vimeo.com/229438655
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Aug 25, 2017 - 08:10pm PT
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That looks like a foot that WILL take you where you want to go when it is ready again. May that be soon.
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Rolfr
Sport climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Aug 25, 2017 - 08:22pm PT
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This could be the begining of a great new thread " Post your disturbing post op photos"
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Aug 26, 2017 - 06:32am PT
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Ouch Greg that looks serious. Hope it heals up so you can get back to it.
Perry reminded me that the annual Psyche ledge social is coming up on Sept 9th. If there is enough interest I could probably haul up the propane fire pit and BBQ.
So if any is planning on coming out let me know and I will plan accordingly , otherwise it will be Chief and I standing there for 5 minutes agreeing that an annual gathering of some sort did indeed occur.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 26, 2017 - 03:59pm PT
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Uh, Luke, put down the bong and read it again.
Saturday Sept. 9/17, 17:00-.........
Be careful of toadstools.
I read that as the 17th. I hope that's right cuz that's when I'm showing up.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Aug 26, 2017 - 09:48pm PT
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That looks like Sept 9, 2017 to me....
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 27, 2017 - 07:54am PT
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I'm so confused.
which is it?
stoopid Americans...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2017 - 01:16pm PT
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Kris has it deciphered. It's September 9th. I'll be there or be square. And i might even have some bells on.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Aug 27, 2017 - 01:37pm PT
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Perhaps we can learn Wayne some Canuckian while he's here.
Canadian: 9/9/17 (in logical, ascending order - as used in most of the world. Even Yanks say "Fourth of July")
Alternative: 2017/09/09 (Descending order - bureaucrabs like this)
Perversely, 9/9/17 will also (in American) be 9/9/17.
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micro_marc
Gym climber
Squamish
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Aug 31, 2017 - 08:51am PT
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Haven't been here for a while, and I'm not sure I still count as a Squamish climber, but that orb video intrigued me to post.
One time luke N and I saw a similar orb floating above Squamish valley from the squaw-chief col. It just hovered, shining super brightly like some kind of electrical phenomenon for about 5 minutes before fizzling out and disappearing. We never really told many people because we assumed no one would take it seriously.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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wondering if anyone know whats up with the alternate "headwall" variation on Angels Crest?
Was on a lap with a friend and went for a delightful quest left off the whaleback onto a steep wall with another splitter.
It was steep, dirty, some-what-loose as one might expect..
Figured someone might have a tale..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2017 - 10:09pm PT
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Kris- Long Time No See is an amazing route and effort. Thank you and your crew for all your hard work, blood, sweat, time and funds. It is sure to become an instant classic.
Marc- You'll always be a Sqaumish Climber buddy! Crazy that you and Luke saw that thing too! It's so easy to dismiss a video as a fake in this day of digital editing, but verified sources are more difficult to dismiss!
Kieran- How was it? How hard?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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steep, dirty, and some-what-loose
My kind of climb.
edit:
I think I once did that variation. Kind of a sharp-edged layback to start? No photos and poor memory, but I am pretty sure I have done 2 off-to-the left variations on the upper part of Angel's Crest. Well, one for sure because I seem to have had a camera that time. But it was the so-called original finish.
climber is Janez Ales
On 30 Aug there were a couple guys who might have been replacing bolts. On Genius Loci and War of the Raptors or Revenge of the Couch Potato.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Tami's mother, doing a talk at the centenary dinner of UBC's Varsity Outdoor Club, on Saturday evening. Iola was one of the two or three oldest people there, at 93, and sounded much like Tami.
She also gave a talk at Hollyburn Lodge on Saturday morning. The lodge is 90 years old, and was extensively rebuilt in the last few years. As with Grouse and Seymour Mountains, it was an early refuge for those seeking escape from Vancouver, to hike, ski, and berry pick. A number of cottages continue to exist at Hollyburn, and it has pretty lakes.
http://hollyburnheritage.ca/
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Andy's "so called original finish" is indeed the original finish. In the summer of 1962 Les MacDonald and I made the 2nd ascent of the upper section, one week after he had made the FA with Uncle Fred and Hank Mather. While it is definitely steep, it is not "dirty and somewhat loose." There appears to have been less greenery back then.
In the attached photo, Les is in a similar position as the climber above. He has just started to make a few aid moves to reach the upper crack.
I later made the 3rd asc. with Roger (the Dodger) Marshall.
Good times!
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Ya it was the pitch before that last flakey thing..
That "original" finish is much more pleasant then the low-angle squirming on the "new" finish..
MH2 sounds like you might have been on the thing I'm talking about; it was a detached pillar leading to sharp finger locks and a steep off-fingers/hands crack.
It's quite out of character for the route. I probably never would have climbed it if not for a fuster-cluckin spaghetti-festival at the base of the proper 10a pitch. I'm glad we did though. So easy to forget how rewarding a quest can be.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Amen, brownie.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Wow, hamie!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Ya it was the pitch before that last flakey thing..
That could describe the start of pitch going up to the Whaleback. But I think the sharp-edged loose-feeling pillar was lower down. Not sure, though.
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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One of the cooler historic threads on this site!!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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RIP Les MacDonald. One of the original Squamish climbers.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2017 - 12:33pm PT
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Andy and Hamish!!! Thank you for that amazing juxtaposition!!! So cool to see visually how times have changed!
The gear is so different, and i thought the rock would be the same, but of course there is much more vegetation on the older image. The climber in the newer image is climbing free, vs Les who is in aiders.
Thank you both for your contributions here!!
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Does anyone know what happened?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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From the Squamish Climbing FB group it sounds like somebody fell 60 feet off the crux pitch of the Buttress. Not sure how. Info says they were wearing a helmet & rope and using/placing pro? Described as rescuers by alive & conscious, saying "it hurts everywhere" when rescued.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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BM. I zoomed in on the original image from 1962, and there is NO bush/shrubbery at all. But I do see some in the later shot. :) :)
There is an unfortunate error in the last sentence of the article referenced by Frosteater......
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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The Les that I knew was no curmudgeon, but he was a lot younger then. Perhaps Tami's dog was the second, fifth or tenth unleashed dog he had run into that day.
He was definitely a "hard" person on the rock. Quite possibly the strongest rock climber in Canada at the time. For some reason he favoured a Euro-style chest/shoulder system for tying in.
I used to have a few Les stories, but now think that they were mostly made up by Big Jim and Tony C, to tease a naïve youngster who knew nuttin' 'bout electrics, carpet laying, steelwork or anything else important. And still doesn't.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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That pic looks like Staircase, on the north face of the Sugarloaf at Murrin?
EDIT: could also be Hot Wire, the 10c to the left. Not quite sure. Needs MH2 pic in same pose to verify :D
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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There is a gap in my coverage.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Sep 15, 2017 - 08:03pm PT
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Sad to read about Les. Another Squamish pioneer gone. Les didn't climb very often, but when he did, he sure climbed hard. Both on the rock and in the mountains. He was a person with many different interests and abilities.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Sep 17, 2017 - 12:13am PT
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After thinking about Les the last couple of days, I remembered this short story. Quite mundane, and not nearly as exciting as starting a riot. I know this story is true because I was there, and I think that Glenn was there too.
Les came from the UK, where local climbing clubs played an important part in developing the sport. Two well known examples, among dozens, would be the Creag Dhu and the Rock and Ice. The latter was unusual in that it had no rules, no huts and no fees. But it did have Brown and Whillans!
Les decided that Squamish needed a club. A meeting (the first and last) was held at Big Jim's house near the PNE, with about a dozen or so of the usual suspects present. There was hopeful talk of Yosemite, the Andes and the Himalaya. A name was chosen, the Kakademon Climbing Club (KCC), a president elected (most likely Les), and a small annual fee was collected.
And that was as far as it went. All talk but sadly no action. Mostly I think because everyone had their own plans and groups, and there were not enough local climbers to form a critical mass.
Several years later we decided to install a plaque at Squamish to remember Jim Baldwin. The fees from the defunct KCC were still in the bank (surprise!!) and came within a dollar or two of the cost of the plaque. End of story, such as it is.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Sep 17, 2017 - 11:19am PT
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Nice images bearbreeder! Awesome stories everyone.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sep 17, 2017 - 11:47am PT
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After thinking about Les the last couple of days, I remembered this short story. Quite mundane, and not nearly as exciting as starting a riot. I know this story is true because I was there, and I think that Glenn was there too.
Les came from the UK, where local climbing clubs played an important part in developing the sport. Two well known examples, among dozens, would be the Creag Dhu and the Rock and Ice. The latter was unusual in that it had no rules, no huts and no fees. But it did have Brown and Whillans!
Les decided that Squamish needed a club. A meeting (the first and last) was held at Big Jim's house near the PNE, with about a dozen or so of the usual suspects present. There was hopeful talk of Yosemite, the Andes and the Himalaya. A name was chosen, the Kakademon Climbing Club (KCC), a president elected (most likely Les), and a small annual fee was collected.
And that was as far as it went. All talk but sadly no action. Mostly I think because everyone had their own plans and groups, and there were not enough local climbers to form a critical mass.
Several years later we decided to install a plaque at Squamish to remember Jim Baldwin. The fees from the defunct KCC were still in the bank (surprise!!) and came within a dollar or two of the cost of the plaque. End of story, such as it is.
And that's how I remember it, too. Les wanted a club similar to those in Great Britain, ideally with a club room (or a spot in a pub) where climbers could have a beer after a climb and share stories. But the beer parlours in Squamish weren't overly friendly to climbers (it was a logging town), and some of the climbers didn't drink beer (I know, I know, it's hard to believe, but it's true). And there didn't seem to be any compelling reason to form a clubs and, as Hamie said, there was no critical mass.
Not counting than the hike up the backside trail, the earliest club trips at Squamish might have been two successful ones put on by the BCMC: an October 1962 trip up the North Gully (led by me) and an October 1964 climb of the Acrophobes (led by Peter Thompson). These were attended not just by young climbers but by such relative old-timers as Dick Chambers, Paul Binkert, and Esther Kafer. And the VOC held sundry rock schools at Murrin Park in the early 1960s.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sep 17, 2017 - 02:02pm PT
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Yup. Amazing how far back some of this stuff goes.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 17, 2017 - 02:30pm PT
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And that's how I remember it, too. Les wanted a club similar to those in Great Britain, ideally with a club room (or a spot in a pub) where climbers could have a beer after a climb and share stories. But the beer parlours in Squamish weren't overly friendly to climbers (it was a logging town), and some of the climbers didn't drink beer (I know, I know, it's hard to believe, but it's true). And there didn't seem to be any compelling reason to form a clubs and, as Hamie said, there was no critical mass.
In the early-to-mid 70s, when I discovered climbing and Squamish (simultaneously), the club existed with all the attributes above, except for one thing: there was no "club".
The two pubs in Squamish were friendly enough to climbers by then, but – more importantly – they were in Squamish and the climbers were in Vancouver. So, while a beer in the Chieftan or the Squamish Hotel was often on the menu at the end of the day on Saturday or Sunday, the weekday pub night that the clubs in England centered around developed as "Wednesday night at the Cecil".
I never met Les, and, as far as I know, Hamish and Glenn were no longer climbing at Squamish when I started. Likewise, most of the Squamish Hard Core had graduated to Yosemite and/or real life. But there was a core group of ex-Brits, sort of centered around John Howard, who missed the climbers-night-at-the-pub tradition they'd left behind.
I'm not aware that any of them missed clubs, but they did miss the pub thing, and my introduction to what climbing was all about – no, not the climbing itself, but everything else – was Wednesday Night at the Cecil.
All things pass. The Cecil reinvented itself as a strip club and our Wednesday night moved to The Yale. But it wasn't the same...
I sure do miss John.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 17, 2017 - 04:43pm PT
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You're right -- Ivanhoe, not Yale.
But the venue really didn't matter. The time had come and gone for that part of Squamish climbing.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Sep 17, 2017 - 05:07pm PT
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The second recorded climb at Squamish, North Gully, was done in 1958 by what might be described as a BCMC party. Although as Glenn says, the Chief didn't really become a destination for the BCMC until 1961 or 1962. IIRC, Esther Kafer led a group of the younger members on new year's eve of 1961 (1962?), some of whom climbed the Acrophobes.
A cacodemon (or cacodaemon) is an evil spirit or (in the modern sense of the word) a demon. The opposite of a cacodemon is an agathodaemon or eudaemon, a good spirit or angel. The word cacodemon comes through Latin from the Ancient Greek κακοδαίμων kakodaimōn, meaning an "evil spirit," whereas daimon would be a neutral spirit in Greek and Tychodaimon would be a good spirit.
However, the "c" is pronounced as though a "k" - it's not a sassodemon, but a kakodemon.
The 1967 guidebook refers to the area around what became known as Cacodemon Caves/Closet simply as "a group of large boulders". They're called Cacodemon Caves in 1975. Not sure how/when that transmogrification occurred, but it's nice that the CCC is memorialized in the name.
Bricks Shannan allegedly earned his nickname by pulling fake bricks off the façade of the Jolly Alderman, which was kitty-corner to the brutalist pile called city hall. Climbers through the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s drank their share of beer, if nothing else, bearing in mind that in the BC of the 1960s and 1970s that mostly involved going to a dingy beer parlour - there weren't any others - the kind with terry cloth tabletops, two signs on the doors ("men" and "ladies and escorts"), and a choice of Molson, Labatt's or high test.
Climbers now go to acroyoga in frou frou clothes instead.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sep 17, 2017 - 08:03pm PT
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The second recorded climb at Squamish, North Gully, was done in 1958 by what might be described as a BCMC party. Although as Glenn says, the Chief didn't really become a destination for the BCMC until 1961 or 1962. IIRC, Esther Kafer led a group of the younger members on new year's eve of 1961 (1962?), some of whom climbed the Acrophobes.
The New Year's Eve trip was 1961, with Culbert, me, my brother Bob, Arnold Shives, etc. That was the 1st ascent of the higher Acrophobe. Esther K wasn't on that, but she was on the October 1964 ascent.
The two pubs in Squamish were friendly enough to climbers by then, but – more importantly – they were in Squamish and the climbers were in Vancouver. So, while a beer in the Chieftan or the Squamish Hotel was often on the menu at the end of the day on Saturday or Sunday, the weekday pub night that the clubs in England centered around developed as "Wednesday night at the Cecil".
In the early 1060s (before your time, Ghost), the Cecil was the place the younger climbers hung out. Sometimes it would be the Fraser Arms. We tried all the pubs up and down Granville: the Yale, Blackstone, the Royal, the Austin, and the Cece seemed to be our favourite. For some of us, it wasn't just "Wed at the Cece" but many nights. [I got banned for life from the Cece, once, or at least until that particular bouncer moved on.....]. But you are right: eventually the Cece became a strip joint and most of us grew up, a bit.
And while I'm on pubs: in the late 1970s when I worked in the Sun Tower, on occasion one or two of us would head off to the Niagara for a beer. Again, it turned into a strip joint and that was the end of that.
Nice to see this thread break the 9000-post mark; on to 10,000.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Sep 17, 2017 - 08:26pm PT
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Ah, the Cece! Good times.
Throwing mungballs at the ceiling. Giving the ceiling a drink. The latter involved standing up and throwing the contents of your beer glass at the ceiling. Surprising that only Glenn was banned. Taking one for the team!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sep 17, 2017 - 08:52pm PT
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Didn't things move to the Cobalt for a bit?
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Sep 28, 2017 - 07:54pm PT
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cordless bolt pulling?
some might tell you that's reckless,
but I will tell you,
with some certainty
you are gonna die sir..
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monolith
climber
state of being
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Sep 29, 2017 - 07:56am PT
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BB is obsessed by pusheen the cat so it must be some kind of symbol for him. I see he's brought his race and political taunting to the climbing threads now.
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monolith
climber
state of being
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Sep 29, 2017 - 08:20am PT
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Tell us the meaning of those pusheen pics, BB, and why you post a lot of them.
WHyte pholkz r amazed dat AZNS kan TACO n belay at da saim time !!!
It's always reassuring knowing your belayer is searching and posting memes to ST political threads at the same time.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sep 29, 2017 - 11:25am PT
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Back to work....
I know this was taken on the Grand Wall in the latest 1960s. But, please, can anyone tell me what pitch it is on?
Thanks...
Glenn
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 29, 2017 - 11:55am PT
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Are you sure that's the Grand Glenn? I don't recall a right facing flake corner like that one in the background anywhere nearby. Could it be on Tantalus Wall with the Bulletheads behind?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sep 29, 2017 - 11:59am PT
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I don't know. The label on the b&w original says Grand Wall, but you are right that something looks a bit weird. I've never done the Grand.
Another possibility is Wewstern Dihedral. I'm less certain if he ever did Tantalus wall.
Glenn
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 29, 2017 - 12:07pm PT
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Agreed with Oplo that the big dihedral behind him doesn't look like anything on the GW. I don't remember anything like it on Tantalus, either.
Somewhere in the Western Dihedrals seems more likely.
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Sep 29, 2017 - 12:09pm PT
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Looks like the top of clean corner @ top right of frame
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 29, 2017 - 12:11pm PT
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Could very well be Western Dihedral too. I can't remember when the FA of that was done but if the time fits, that could well be it.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sep 29, 2017 - 01:08pm PT
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Thanks all, the climber is Dick Culbert. He did the 2nd of the Western Dihedral. So that's what I am going with.
Thanks....
Glenn
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Sep 29, 2017 - 02:55pm PT
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Wonderful photo.
Mysterious, to me.
Here is a shot that probably includes the position but I can't be sure where. In the older photo the band in upper right with what I call inclusions and the sharp curving overhang in lower right seem distinctive but don't help me. The sharply contrasting black and white streaks should be considered, too.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 29, 2017 - 05:02pm PT
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Maybe he was just too stoned to climb that day, so decided to go to the Smoke Bluffs. That's what we always did. Caption should be: "First ascent (on aid) of Quarryman."
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Sep 29, 2017 - 08:36pm PT
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I do believe he's following the last pitch in that B&W pic. It appears to be the first corner right of the top of Clean corner in Andy's picture. If you zoom in, you can see the small corner directly behind him in the B&W pic, and the distinctive streaked wall behind. The farthest block in the upper right of the photo should be the big square block one pitch from the top of Freeway.
I don't have all of my old guidebooks with me as I'm working up in Whitehorse, but could someone look it up to confirm whether or not it is Western Dihedral that ends up in that corner?
K
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Sep 30, 2017 - 08:07am PT
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Seems to fit, Kris. The Jim Campbell guide shows The Western Dihedral finishing there (arrow in pic below) and the features match.
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monolith
climber
state of being
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Sep 30, 2017 - 12:09pm PT
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Too bad about BearBreeder. His race taunting style was just a little to 'quirky' for this site.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 30, 2017 - 12:53pm PT
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Too bad about BearBreeder. His race taunting style was just a little to 'quirky' for this site.
Not for most of us on this site. He was an appreciated contributor to this Squamish thread, but I guess when he brought the subject of racism into a thread devoted to "US national policy issues looming after healthcare" that was too much for some people.
Racism is one of the important issues looming in the US. But a couple of people didn't like his style. Maybe it made them uncomfortable? Made them think about their own views on race? So they went running to mommy to make that horrible Chinaman stop tossing reality in their faces?
I didn't know him, other than through this Squamish thread, but I'll miss him. Supertopo needs more people like him, not fewer.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Sep 30, 2017 - 02:46pm PT
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That's disappointing. Someone who climbed hard, took good pix and had a sense of humour---gone! Maybe he was warned? I never read any of the poli stuff, so have no idea what he might have posted there...... Hoping to see him back soon, after his probationary period, under a new name.
A while back Glenn posted "Nice to see this thread break the 9,000 post-mark". We'll have to try again. BB must have had about 30 posts deleted.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 30, 2017 - 04:32pm PT
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I always found bb's posts rather funny and he did post great pics. In my worldview there are way more heinous things posted on this sight than bb's and it gets the nod. Go figure. I never saw his posts on the political threads as I avoid those threads like the plague. Were they like what he posts here? Are there really people here that can't see the humor and sarcasm? I guess that is a stupid question.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 30, 2017 - 04:49pm PT
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I never saw his posts on the political threads as I avoid those threads like the plague. Were they like what he posts here?
Pretty much. He got a bit carried away with quantity, and the content was a little more serious that what he was posting here in the Sq'ish thread -- but hardly insulting or disrespectful. Just pointing out the need to address racism. Which, on a thread about problems facing the US, is actually on topic.
I suppose it's possible that he put up a post that crossed the line, but I sure didn't see it. There were a couple of people who seemed to be offended, and my guess is that they somehow got him banned.
Are there really people here that can't see the humor and sarcasm? I guess that is a stupid question.
Yup. See above. What baffles me, though, is how people like that can even walk, when their panties are bunched so badly.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Bearbreeder helped this thread a lot. I don't know why he's gone, but am sad to lose him here.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Thanks, all, for help with the Western Dihedral photo.
Here's another one. Taken at Squamish, early-1960s to no later than 1972. Most likely 1965 to 1917
Any ideas? To me, it looks like it might be on the Bulletheads someplace.
Thanks...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Could it be on Mayday? That's a Culbert FA in the Bulletheads, right? I tried this rig once in the rain to practice aid in the 90s but we bailed off left on the Wild Turkey approach ledge rather than finish. The rock reminds me of that. Don't have any pics as it rained too hard and my camera back then wasn't waterproof.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Thanks, all. I'll put this one down as Bulletheads, probably Mayday. The climber is Dick Culbert. Unlikely to be Bullethead Central, IMHO. See the 3 of you on Saturday!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Thanks for the memory Zhim.
Indeed. I have fond memories of a lot of fun with Peter. Climbing, riding, hanging. Anyone no where he is now? How he's doing?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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I (tentatively) remember being introduced to the young Robin Shackleton at The Edge climbing gym in North Vancouver in the 90s. I have trouble with the idea that people get older, until faced with the fact.
I think Sig Isaac once mentioned to me that he was staying with the Shackletons in Lions Bay.
edit:
Thanks for the pictures, Jim. Oy.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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In Errington, on the Island. Acreage with buildings for all.
How bout that! By this time next year, we'll be neighbors again.
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Hoser
climber
Vancouver,Rome
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Pretty skookum!
Don Serl Awarded 2017 BMFF Summit of Excellence - proud to announce Don Serl as the 2017 recipient of the Summit of Excellence Award, which recognizes an individual who has made a significant contribution to mountain life in Canada. Regarded as one of Canada’s most accomplished and prolific mountaineers, Serl has about 200 first ascents to his name.
https://gripped.com/news/don-serl-awarded-2017-bmff-summit-excellence/
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Don has made many significant contributions to mountain life in Canada.
Hey, Tami, let's not tell any lies about the moose that Don hit on his motorcycle when he broke all 17 ribs.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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I feel pretty sure that the photo Glenn posted of Dick Culbert is Mayday in what we now call Bulletheads North. FA Culbert and Barry Hagen, 1968, according to McLane 2005. The line is shown in that guide on p. 237 with the position in Glenn's photo just below the black-boxed numbers 52 and 53.
The photo Glenn posted:
Here is where I think Culbert is in the above photo:
And an overall view showing the same location:
And a climb also off Turkey Ledge:
Climber in above shot is here, fairly close to where Dick Culbert is in Glenn's photo:
The McLane guide says that Mayday followed what is now Fight Club. Would have been what Kevin calls, "a fine situation, indeed."
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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9,000!!!!
And to make it more than just grabbing 9K here's a (crappy) photo of another Squamish first ascent.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Thaks, Andy. Seems pretty conclusive.
Glenn
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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And we're back over 9,000 posts, again.
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Arti
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 19, 2017 - 11:46am PT
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For all the BC/Pacific NW Mountaineering buffs: the Varsity Outdoor Club has published a coffee table book chronicling the 100 year history of the UBC student club exploring the Coastal Mountains and beyond. It's currently available for order from the UBC bookstore or pick-up in a few places. We're also looking for more stores to sell it going into the holiday season.
I know a few Topo regulars have a copy; I'd love to hear what y'all think of it!
Antics, Epics and Escapades Preview Pages
The Varsity Outdoor Club has turned 100. To celebrate the rich history of the clubs wilderness (mis-)adventures we’ve independently published the best of our collective stories from the last century into one beautiful coffee table book.
The VOC has been intimately tied with the history of hiking, skiing, mountaineering and exploration of Southwestern British Columbia and beyond. From building a wooden cabin on the untamed wilds of Grouse Mountain (in the 1920s), to the first ski crossing of the now ultra-classic, “Neve Traverse” in Garibaldi Park, to modern adventures pushing how far and how fast we can go.
Each chapter explores the decades from 1917 to 2017, combining primary written accounts, stunning photos and oral histories of the members into a larger unfolding narrative of the ever-evolving relationship between adventurers and nature.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Oct 19, 2017 - 12:02pm PT
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Who or what was the motive force behind that?
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Arti
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 20, 2017 - 06:58am PT
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The VOC has published an annual journal since 1958 so a centennial coffee table book felt like the right way to mark the occasion and celebrate our little bit of history.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Oct 20, 2017 - 08:02am PT
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Thanks for the reply. I did not at first notice the blue colour link. There I found a "written by" attribution for some of the text, plus fine photos including one of Anders on U Wall. It seems appropriate not to worry too much where credit is due since a club is a collective.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Nov 30, 2017 - 07:05am PT
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Posted originally elsewhere on ST -- courtesy of The Flames.
"Tami Knight Squamish Crag Profile - Alpinist 43"
A tour de force of course. One would expect no less from an ACC award-winning journalist/illustrator such as Our Tami.
In wordiness is the preservation of history, to borrow a phrase, but it's not true here. Every ancecdote and fact is a nugget unto itself.
Enjoy and profit from this, please.
I don't mind saying that scanning this was a "hard day at the office" for me. A virus in my computer won't let my normally efficient scanner copy at an effective rate and so I need to turn the computer off after every scan and begin the process again. Kinda like soloing, was what I thought. So I sat and sat and scanned and scanned and then, when done, did a link-up of sorts by having to upload these pages and then put them in the correct order here. I'd have done it quicker had I not gotten "off-route" by not scanning page 52 initially.
I'd also like to say that I've always had a hankering to visit Howe Sound and would like to thank Big Mike for laying this copy of Alpinist on me at Facelift.
Cheers to all the Stawamites of ST! Merry Christmas, as well.
MFM
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pixel
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Dec 19, 2017 - 12:18pm PT
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Exasperator, December 14. What a great dry spell!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 27, 2017 - 10:51pm PT
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Last year was a slow one for this thread. Only 258 posts, including this one. However we did manage to break 9,000--twice!
Here's a couple of historical references to end the year with:
In 2016, to commemorate the 100th ascent of Bugaboo Spire, the on-line version of Gripped Magazine had an article called "The 10 Greatest Canadian Ascents in the Last Century".
In 2017, to commemorate Canada's 150th birthday, this article was changed a little, and became "12 Great Canadian Ascents From The Past 150 Years".
Locally, the University Wall (1966) FA T. Auger, D. Tate, G. Woodsworth/Tricouni, H. Mutch/hamie and the Waddington Range Traverse (1985) FA D. Serl, P. Croft, G. Foweraker/Frostback made both lists.
The 2017 list and article can be viewed at the Gripped on-line site. Click on profiles, and June 30.
Hoping to see more photos and stories in 2018.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Dec 28, 2017 - 05:33pm PT
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Thanks for the info, hamie.
The thread may be slow but it hits some high points.
Looking forward to 2018, but just before we get there:
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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U Wall Drool wasn't in at all climbable shape Dec 29. Nobody got the first ski descent of Diedre either.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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An ascent of the first summit of the Chief on Monday afternoon, with a BCMC group. Ten total, advertised as a "mystery trip". The objectives being some exercise, fresh air and companionship, plus to see the sunset and moonrise on the full moon closest to the winter solstice. I've done it three times in the past eight years, usually on my own. (2009, 2011, and 2015.) On five of the last nine occurrences it has been clear enough to see - probably fewer than 20% of winter nights in Squamish are clear.
In fact, it was feasible in 2009, 2011, 2015, 2016 and 2017, which seems rather improbable. But I missed 2015, and the two of us who went last year had Arctic conditions, and could not wait for the official moonrise.
Timing is of course everything, and the moon likes a little variability in when and where he rises. But the internetz revealed that moonrise on Monday was to be at 16:29, that is minutes after sunset. But moonrise based on the deemed rather than actual horizon, so the question was how long he would take to peep above the mountains on the horizon. (In old English, the moon was a male-gendered noun.) At any rate we had a nice walk, then did a happy moon dance while waiting for him to rise.
The first two times, sunset and moonrise were closer together, and so the pink fingers of the sun were caressing Garibaldi as the moon rose.
By a once in a blue moon coincidence, there will be another full moon on the night of January 30th/31st. Moonrise then at 16:22, sunset at 17:04, so there are scenic possibilities. There will also be a lunar eclipse at 05:29 the next morning, just before sunrise. Still, it might be fun to see.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Holy Smokes!
Dan Mannix
John Clothier
Perry Beckham
etc.
Hope there isn't some curse on it, where we die on our next climb.
But thanks!
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Jan 10, 2018 - 02:53pm PT
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nothing but a bunch of crickets on the ol history jam..
Too bad.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 10, 2018 - 03:42pm PT
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Did you check the number of views before and after?
When I saw your post, I went to the vid and it had had 115 views. Just now I see 779.
The crickets may chirp but they also see.
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grover
climber
Castlegar BC
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Jan 10, 2018 - 04:27pm PT
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Ha, Ive got that film on vhs!
Classic!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Jan 10, 2018 - 05:09pm PT
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An interesting aspect of Deadline being that logging is arguably much riskier than wall climbing, despite appearances.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 10, 2018 - 06:30pm PT
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Scott Flavelle!
Janet Rodan!
Quinn's!
Peder!
Hamish!
Worth a second viewing, and the logging intro is a big plus.
edit:
But isn't it Rodden, not Rodan? I've been wrong all these years? History is tricky.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 11, 2018 - 12:47am PT
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Jim B
Re: photo #1. Wow, Squish sure has changed. Or is that Snowpatch?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 15, 2018 - 06:17am PT
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Scary story, Tami. I always felt nervous about authorities and the general public when using that wall. There I met Andy Pacheco and learned about his fall at the bluffs and his recovery.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 15, 2018 - 02:23pm PT
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Fall at the Bluffs? iirc it was Paul Kao, not Andy Pacheco, who took a full length, 35 m plus groundfall off the top of True Love after lowering from a loop of cable on the hydro tower anchor that wasn't swaged shut, or something of the sort.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 16, 2018 - 12:47pm PT
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He made a full recovery and climbed 11s and 12s again, iirc. The new VOC coffee table book might have some more info.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 16, 2018 - 07:16pm PT
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Thanks for the correction. It must have been Paul I met at Park Royal South. I guess I met Andy through VOC.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 17, 2018 - 09:31am PT
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I did ten years in the VOC. There's even a little profile of me in there.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 17, 2018 - 06:54pm PT
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Whew! Glad I didn't use his name. Although I could be wrong.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 17, 2018 - 07:26pm PT
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Aha! A puzzle for Tami.
The truth is out there... Or, rather, in here, on ST.
You have until 08:00 tomorrow morning to come up with the correct answer. If you fail, no choklit for you tomorrow.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 24, 2018 - 05:44pm PT
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Excellent times.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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May 18, 2018 - 07:44pm PT
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A name rich in climbing associations.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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May 19, 2018 - 12:07am PT
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Never got to meet Hank but well aware of his contribution to Squamish climbing.
A real pioneer.
Sounds like he lead a remarkable life.
Condolences to his family and friends.
RIP Hank.
PB
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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May 24, 2018 - 08:07pm PT
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Hank was 87, and one of the outstanding climbers in Canada in the late 1950s and 1960s. In addition to those Glenn mentions, his major ascents include the east face of Snowpatch Spire in the Bugaboos (1959, with Fred Beckey), Widowmaker Arete on the north shore's Crown Mountain (with Les MacDonald), and Northwest Passage on the Stawamus Chief (1965, with Fred Beckey, Leif Norman Patterson and Alex Bertulis). Hank, with Les MacDonald, may also have been the first to climb at Lighthouse Park.
Perhaps most significantly, Hank, with Jim Archer, made the first recorded rock climb at Squamish, South Gully, in 1957 - a year before the highway was completed. In 1959, Hank, with Fred Beckey and Don Claunch, did the first technical climb to the top of the Chief, which they called South Arete and which is now (more or less) called Squamish Buttress.
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Hoser
climber
Vancouver,Rome
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May 25, 2018 - 05:18am PT
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I feel like I climbed some epic line(s) of his in Marble Canyon...always wondered about him. Thanks for the picture!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Jun 21, 2018 - 01:57pm PT
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Today is not only midsummer's day, it is also the 85th birthday of Jim Sinclair, who has been a fixture of the Squamish climbing scene almost since it began. Let's hope that he's up to his favourite activities today, sitting with friends, drinking coffee, and telling stories. Here's Big Jim on the porch at the Beckhams a few years ago.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 21, 2018 - 02:30pm PT
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Everybody's heard of the North Buttress of Mt Stuart, in Washington.
It has a homophone, the North Buttress of Mt Stewart, one of the Lucky Four peaks in the Cheam Range.
First ascent by Hank Mather (RIP) and Adolf Bitterlich in 1967.
On the right in the photo.
Fifty plus years without a repeat?
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jun 21, 2018 - 06:56pm PT
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Damn that's a beautiful mountain.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 21, 2018 - 08:15pm PT
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Jim accomplished a lot on the rock -- maybe not well known outside the Squamish climbing community, but nonetheless noteworthy -- but he did not write much about it.
But the one thing he did write is, pretty much hands down, the best encapsulation I've ever read of what it is like to be out there on the sharp end.
"Sometimes You Know -- Sometimes You Don't" is less than 1,000 words, but sums it all up perfectly. I don't remember where Jim published it originally, but we reprinted it in The Canadian Mountaineering Anthology.
I'll try to find a digital copy and repost it here, but in the meantime, anyone who sees Jim please give him my regards.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Jun 21, 2018 - 11:11pm PT
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Does anyone know how/why he acquired the nickname Big Jim?
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 22, 2018 - 09:03am PT
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Big Jim. What a guy! Always a smile and a good story. Happy birthday and a big cheer, Jim!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jun 22, 2018 - 12:03pm PT
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Called Jim from Atlanta yesterday to wish him a happy 85th and not surprisingly, he was hanging out at our place, one of his frequent haunts.
Jim has been a source of constant inspiration since I first met him in 76.
His CAJ piece “ Sometimes you know, Sometimes you don’t” fired my imagination and to this day, captures the feel of commiting to the kind of climbing experience that can only be found edging on dimes on the lower flanks of the Grand on a shady summer morning.
Although climbing gave me a sense of purpose, forged much of my character and created enduring relationships, I live by Jim’s advice that “There’s more to life than climbing.”
Thank you Big Jim and wishing you at least fifteen more!
PB
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jun 22, 2018 - 12:22pm PT
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Big Jim. What a guy! Always a smile and a good story.
And what a smile.
l to r: Harry, Bill, Jim, Phil, Robert
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 22, 2018 - 12:59pm PT
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Okay, I dug out Jim's little story "Sometimes You Know -- Sometimes You Don't". Here it is...
Sometimes You Know – Sometimes You Don’t
By Jim Sinclair
I knew it was the crux. It had taken two days to get here, in some ways much longer. I was sixty feet out from Chris, between us was a tied-off knife blade, a small part of it into the incipient crack. The rest of its length protruded out and down, but it would have to do. It was like walking down Granville Street with every neon sign selling the same message… “It won’t hold a fall.”
I tried to calculate it. I’d drop twenty-five feet if the pin held, and could extract myself easily enough. But if it didn’t, I’d go one hundred and twenty feet, probably hit the ledge thirty feet below Chris and at best be seriously hurt.
Perhaps fifteen minutes had gone by, and I hadn’t moved; nineteen years of rock climbing was working in my head – I just didn’t know if I could get over this last bit or not. There was no bolt kit, no crack – not even a cliff hanger helped. It was free it or go down. Going down was tricky buy no major problem. But could we go up?
There seemed to be a microflake at knee level on the steel wall. Was that another six feet above it? Eyes inches from the rock, the hand caresses over it. Yes! A ripple perhaps a thirty-second of an inch… but a ripple!
Somewhere in the deepest being the pros and cons of justification are being weighed.
“You’ve stood on as small things before,” the pros say.
“I know, I know,” you tell your other self. “But this could lead nowhere. I wasn’t facing death then, or maybe I was. I don’t know. But that was then, this is now. World do I love life! Why do I come up here anyway? There stupid, up there, above the right hand.” The demon pros never let go.
The judgement must be exact, precise, infinite. I stood on tip-toe feeling very secure on the half-inch ledge I was standing on. Strange, when I’d first reached it I was apprehensive about stepping onto it. Now, twenty minutes later, it felt like a ballroom floor. I was safe, if only I didn’t try to use the microflake.
Yes! Yes! It was there – a little finger hold. I couldn’t quite reach it from the ledge but it was there, inches above my reach. The years of climbing, worn out kletterschuhe, discarded ropes, and the voice of judgement convinced me it was there. But I couldn’t quite reach it.
This was no boulder problem, no jump off and try again game. It was the ability to move up and the judgement of whether you can or not. You get one chance in the game. You judge right the first time or you don’t play again.
The left foot went to the microflake and immediately skidded off.
“How you doing up there man?” Chris secure on his ledge, two comfortable pitons for a station and basking sunshine.
“It’s HAIRY buddy, I just don’t know about this.”
No answer, then: “How’s that pin?”
“The shits,” I call down… no answer.
Again, for reasons unknown, the left foot creeps toward the microflake. Slowly ease my eight to it and even get a few pounds off the right foot before retreating back to the ballroom floor. It had held! Incredulously my left foot had held!
I lit a smoke, trying to get the green taste out of my mouth and waiting for it to happen. What a beautiful thing a horrible thing like a cigarette was at a time like this. Far down in the valley a crow glided. Below him little toy cars weaved their way through the forest following a white line that never ended.
The cigarette finished, with no conviction to do or die, but rather attracted as to a magnet, I again brushed off the little hold. The left foot went up, weight eased over just right, right hand reaching for the sky. I touched it, tips of fingers deep into its ripples. The right foot ten inches from the ballroom floor… fifteen inches! Don’t come off now left foot Please don’t come off now. The neon signs are exploding in the head and you know, absolutely, that the piton will not hold a fall. You’re committed, it’s only fifteen inches to the ballroom floor, but there is no going back.
To the onlooker, you are suspended there, climbing to nothing, defying gravity to the extreme. Perhaps a suicidal maniac with a death wish, at best a misled youth surely to die. The tricouni set would call you an engineer, safe on your ladder of pitons and hardly climbing at all.
You reach a state of near total fusion with what you’re doing. Evert fiber of the body is instinctively controlled to place the fingers a few inches higher to the hold, and so to be a part of it. No longer is anything done consciously. The years of training have taken over. The instincts are in control of your body, mind, nerves, and soul. They creep your fingers upward even as you know you’re moving off, you’re on the brink. There is no time but the minute part of the second difference in which is first, the left foot coming off or the fingers touching the ripple above. There is no distance but the fifteen inches back to the ballroom floor. There is no problem in life greater than the placing of a finger an inch higher. Then it’s there, the left hand goes out, a good hold, mantle up… it’s over.
We were on easy terrain, moving fast to the top and I wondered. What if we’d climbed to the crux and retreated off? Did we climb to the crux, or were we leading up to the climb? Did we do a two-day route? A two-hundred-foot wall? Or did we do a one-hour climb, fifteen inches high?
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jun 22, 2018 - 01:07pm PT
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Classic!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 22, 2018 - 02:07pm PT
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I always wondered what climb that story was about. The Phew?
The Phew seems pretty obscure now, that's for sure.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jun 22, 2018 - 04:08pm PT
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Hardly!
The Phew (and Mislead) was the inspiration for Cruel Shoes which incorporates the exquisite original second pitch of The Phew.
PB
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 22, 2018 - 04:18pm PT
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Right - so everybody climbs Cruel Shoes now and nobody climbs the Phew. Sorta like The Crossing or Climbers Must be Crazy vs the original Grim Reaper
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jun 22, 2018 - 05:27pm PT
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It may be fair to say that most people who climb Cruel Shoes don’t know they’re climbing the second pitch of the Phew in the process.
Andrew Boyd found a free line around and through the bolt ladder on the first pitch and forged on above the third pitch and would most likely agree Jim pointed the way by establishing The Phew.
Whether today’s climbers are aware or not, when they’re on their way to the Split Pillar they’re climbing routes Jim established and/or inspired.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 22, 2018 - 11:29pm PT
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I hear that the new Squamish guide is out, and that it costs $49- plus tax. Maybe Jim received a free copy, but maybe not. Perhaps 'someone' (Perry? Anders? Glenn?) could check this out with Kevin. If he did not get a freebie, then perhaps we could buy him one. I would be happy to start this off by kicking in $15-. If we raise more than $49- then we can add a case of beer or two, or a coffee voucher somewhere. If we raise less, then I will cover that too.
However 'someone' local will have to co-ordinate this, handle cheques etc.
Thoughts? Volunteer?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 22, 2018 - 11:33pm PT
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^^^^^^^Anders asks about the origin of the nick-name Big Jim.
By all accounts that may well be a personal question!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jun 23, 2018 - 05:20am PT
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Hamie,
A generous consideration on your part.
I’ll bet dollars to donuts Kevin has already provided Jim a copy and will verify this and report.
Re the origin of his moniker “Big Jim”, I always assumed the Hardcore coined that one.
Maybe this was a result of the profile Jim developed following his starring role in The Vertical Desert?
He’s of average stature, maintains a mild disposition and although he’s a living legend hardly comports himself in a “Big” way other than having a big heart.
PB
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Jun 23, 2018 - 08:19am PT
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Happy Birthday Big Jim!
Taken a month ago when he hiked up to The Bears new crag just to hang out and chat.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Thanks for the good news!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 10, 2018 - 09:47am PT
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Rest in peace Geoff Creighton.
You were one of the greats. Everything from 5.13 sport routes to the Thunderbird variation to Hummingbird Ridge on Logan.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 10, 2018 - 10:11am PT
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Sad news.
What happened?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 10, 2018 - 10:22am PT
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Doubly sad.
And yes, finding that food stash on Logan was a miracle.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jul 10, 2018 - 02:36pm PT
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A great guy. First met him in New River Gorge in '89 or '90. He always remembered me and was always fun to talk with.
He had been in a bad car accident according to Quinton.
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pixel
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Jul 17, 2018 - 04:38pm PT
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I've lurked on this thread a lot, but most of my trips and photos are too run-of-the-mill to post. Here's one that's a little more off the beaten path: Cannabis Wall (without a hammer). Because we're beginner aiders and wanted to reserve lots of time for sangria in the evenings, I confess it took three sessions (not counting a two-pitch recon last year). Luke's trip report earlier on this thread was super-helpful.
Day one.
P1: The plan: lead the first two pitches to last year's high point and leave a rope. Then head back up and finish in one more day! The reality: Matty leads pitch one, and then we get chased down by thunder and rain. On the route, Matty does the splits between the last bolt and the first hook placement on the rail traverse to get into the corner and reports, "Hook placements are not for pansies!"
Day two.
P2: As I set off on pitch two, I can hear some discussion on the finer points of jumaring as Matty sets up to join us. I use cams on the climb wherever I can, having learned to appreciate their cleanability when I seconded this pitch last year. When I get to the crux, I find I've used my peckers in the wrong order and the second placement holds just the end of the medium pecker. I take advantage of the long cheater loop hanging off the anchor for a point of protection.
P3: After fighting his way almost to the end of the awkward corner, Marc gets stuck on a reachy section. The corner pushes him sideways, and he's wearing worn-out hiking shoes whose soles are coming off. I take his place and manage to paste my approach shoes to the wall high enough to stab an Alien at the next placement. This leads to clipping the fixed heads up above, which look like smooshed pieces of grey chewing gum with cables sticking out of them. The terrain below looks too rampy for a fall to work out well. Above a sketchy black tricam, I look for an alternative to hooking a deadhead (or maybe it's a piece of chewing gum). I set my smallest micronut in a perfect placement. It's perfect! But it's rated to two kilonewtons. I'm of two minds about it. When I arrive at the anchor, we agree it's iced tea and pizza time, so I just fix the line and rap down, cleaning as I go. Amazingly, the micronut comes back out again.
Day three. Marc and I come back a week later, starting earlier because the weather's gone hot.
P4: We start the day by jugging back up to our high point. Last week, I laughed at Matty's innovative sideways roll technique to jumar out of the pitch two corner, but it's better than what I come up with. The hanging belay at the start of pitch four is a huge cluster, but at least I did my racking on the ground. Marc makes a belay seat out of his aiders and settles in. Pitch four, which I kind of wangled because it doesn't involve free climbing, is pretty straightforward small nuts and cams, with a #1 ball nut for variety.
P5: Marc takes pitch five, which is long, steep, and featured, with bigger cracks and some loose-looking blocks. He brings his climbing shoes, since one of the guidebooks rates it C2 5.9, but he styles it in approach shoes. We head down in three double-rope rappels, finding a nut along the way that we didn't even know we dropped.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Jul 17, 2018 - 08:17pm PT
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These shots are from an ascent of the Aid route on the Sheriff's Badge that I did with Kieran Brownie and Luke Cormier last month. We managed to do the first one day ascent of it, 21:55. I wrote a TR for Paradox Sports, which is on their website, and posted a longer version of it on a thread here on the Taco under the title, First One Day ascent of the Aid route on the Sheriff's Badge. Thanks again to Kieran and Luke for an all time great climb!
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pixel
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Jul 20, 2018 - 10:11am PT
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Thanks, Jim! It's been fun to explore new terrain with new methods of climbing.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jul 24, 2018 - 12:44pm PT
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Thanks, Wayne. Inspiring stories, and I especially like the, "I am so lucky to...," way of looking at the world.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jul 24, 2018 - 04:51pm PT
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Gotta get back there!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 29, 2018 - 09:11am PT
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Where is Big Mike? I hope all is well. I haven't heard from him in a while.
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pixel
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Congratulations on your Sheriff's Badge ascent, Wayne! And thank you for posting that article on adaptive climbing.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Big Mike is doing well, Wayno, just busy with work.
Thanks for the congratulations regarding our Sheriff's Badge ascent, MH2 and Pixel. That was a very special day.
It is really heartening to see more adaptive climbers getting on the Chief, and how wonderful that the local paper, The Chief, is covering same. Thanks also to Brent and the Canadian Adaptive Climbing Society, I really look forward to seeing their programs grow. Adaptive climbing changes and enriches the lives of those participating in so many wonderful ways.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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wayne w, I have followed your exploits here and from what I've heard from Mike. You have my attention. For some strange reason I tried to do the Tangerine trip in winter for my first successful attempt at climbing El Cap. One of the team was indeed what you would now call adaptive. Mind you this was 1981 and all I know is my late buddy Dave Webster had a Skill-saw go down his leg ten years previous. Many prognoses and operations later, we somehow pulled it off. What an impression it has left me! Climb on, brother.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Here's a photo. Is there a story?
and thanks for the update on Big Mike
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Jstod
Trad climber
North Vancouver
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Met Ava (who i believe is Pixel from upthread) and Matty the other day at a belay on the Papoose. Thought I'd share this shot of her on Hairpin's last pitch.
We climbed Obsession, which is a relatively new linkup of sorts that John Howe cleaned/bolted a few years ago. Great route - highly recommended!
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pixel
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Hi Julian! Yes, that's me (Eva). Thanks for the picture and the Hairpin beta the other day. I'll have to try the left of the bulge on pitch three sometime.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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For all of Geoff Creighton's friends, there will be a celebration of his life
Ah, sh#t. I don't think I'll be able to make it. So raise a glass to his memory for me.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Thanks for your kind words, Wayno. Your late friend and yourself likely nabbed the second Adaptive El Cap ascent. That is not an insignificant accomplishment, big congratulations much belatedly. I had El Cap plans for an ascent with my friend Michael O Donnell, who was in his prime then and a force to be reckoned with, for the Spring of '83, but was hit by a car while riding my bicycle before we could do it. I was quite seriously injured, then when I had somewhat recovered, more plans went by the wayside after being hit by a car while riding my motorcycle a few years later. Finally got in my first wall in the Fall of '90, an ascent of Zodiac.
Feels good to still be getting off the deck now and then all these years later. Back to Squamish; Most recently, the University Wall on the Chief, in 11 hours on Aug 3rd. Major props to my badass friends Chris Trull and Jon Rigg for making it happen so seamlessly. What an extraordinary day we had. Jon had done the U Wall before, but it was the first time for Chris and myself. I had been looking forward to climbing it for a long while, getting up there only reaffirmed to me why. Such a great route!
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pixel
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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South Gully seen from Powaqqatsi in morning shade. We saw climbers on Calculus Crack, Long Time No See, Rock On, and Hard On.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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MH2: looks like M-A scrambling the pillar..
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Thanks. My guess,too.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 10, 2018 - 10:09am PT
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A few people on this forum will probably remember Tim Auger. He climbed extensively at Squamish in the 1960s, where he made the 2nd ascent of the Grand Wall (to Dance Platform) and 1st ascent of University Wall. He climbed in Yosemite for a few seasons, made two trips to the Himalayas (successful on Pumori), but spent most of his life in mountain rescue with the Warden Service in Banff National Park.
Tim had been in poor health for a few years, and he died last night, age 72, in Banff.
Glenn Woodsworth
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Aug 10, 2018 - 12:26pm PT
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A sad day.
The passing of a great human and a climbing legend.
So much to learn from his example.
RIP Tim
PB
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 10, 2018 - 04:44pm PT
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When I first started climbing in Squamish 45 years ago, Tim was already a legend -- but he was no longer in Squamish. And when I started climbing in the Rockies, I thought I'd surely run into him someday. But I never did, and now I never will.
RIP.
___
And yes, Greg is right in his memory of Gordie's account of the FA of Apron Strings. The Bloodlust note is worded similarly, but refers to "a couple of yanks wearing wet ties"
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 10, 2018 - 06:40pm PT
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I think in the beer-drinking sense, Tim was part of an earlier generation. He certainly liked a beer in the Chieftan, but I (and another old friend) don't recall him really putting it away like some of us. As for the boat races, none of us climbers could do that, but one hard-core beer drinker in our crowd could. But he wasn't a climber.
And the drinking age was still 21. So in 1965, Tim would have only been 19 or so. He always looked so young, he probably had trouble getting into beer parlours (no pubs in those days).
Here's a photo of Tim in full U-Wall regalia, 1966.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Aug 10, 2018 - 07:02pm PT
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Wow!
That’s an awesome photo.
There was only a handful of climbers in Squamish on any given weekend when I started in 76.
Tim would have looked like an alien space traveller to the locals in that get up in 66.
A solitary pioneer indeed.
Respect!
(Can we assume he's standing on Psyche Ledge?)
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Sep 12, 2018 - 11:22am PT
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Haha, I just saw that today too...Trolllolol
Anywho - Hatten & Weinstein's Up From The Skies saw a recent ascent. Good job fellas.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Sep 13, 2018 - 03:11pm PT
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Psyche Ledge reminder.
Saturday Sept. 15.
Just sayin’
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 14, 2018 - 10:14am PT
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Obscure Squamish summit. How many ascents, two?
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Sep 14, 2018 - 10:47am PT
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Hope to maybe get psyched with yall!
Definitely more than two...I know of at least 4? Danny Guestrin recently put a register up there...last year I think
A fun little multi-sporting adventure, I think. Sweet angle. Is that from a UAV or were you flying low-level down the Sound?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sep 14, 2018 - 11:10am PT
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I've been up it about 4 times. Maybe 3, maybe 5. I'd l would guess a couple of dozen ascents.
Edit: And I've been up it solo and in mid-winter, with a wisk-broom. So probably 5 for me.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 14, 2018 - 12:24pm PT
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I had no idea it was getting that popular!
From a helicopter Dom. Flying back from Potlatch.
Some great unclimbed boulder problems waiting there for when heli-bouldering becomes a thing
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Bill Noble
climber
Golden BC
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Sep 14, 2018 - 01:43pm PT
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Now that looks like a face worth climbing. I'm yanking the pull cord on my Robinson, loading it up with wire brushes, chalk bags and an assortment of various specialty footwear. How does CBH (Canadian Bouldering Holidays) ring? Or it could be CBD....no explanation necessary.
The truth can be stranger than fiction?
Hats off to Glenn, Dick and whoever else has visited the worthy somewhat mysterious summits of the Touch'n Go and Castle.
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pixel
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Sep 26, 2018 - 01:25pm PT
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We noticed this crack by the side of the gondola access road a few weeks ago, and last Sunday we came back to try aid climbing it.
It turned out to be a marathon of digging clayey mud out of the crack, but there's some good cam hooking on vertical terrain. The section above the roof was kind of a nightmare of slipping on mud and pulling on shrubs to get to a tree I felt comfortable anchoring on. But the red-topped Cladonia lichen was pretty.
It didn't look as if anyone had been up there before, but does anyone know of any development in that area? Edit: identified with help from the community as High Country, details downthread.
Location: 1.5 kilometres down from the gondola, close to the gate (and on the outside of it). Beside a sign reading "9."
Difficulty (edited): Below the roof, it's very straightforward with only one spot with two progression-only pieces in a row above a safe fall; above the roof is a very dirty few metres of bad placements and pulling on shrubs before you can get to a rappellable tree. The A3 grade given in the Jim Campbell guidebook seems too stiff, unless it refers to the sketch factor of going farther to a higher anchor.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 26, 2018 - 01:47pm PT
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There was some aid line near the current location of the gate in the Campbell book iirc. Check the 1985 guidebook for details.
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pixel
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Sep 26, 2018 - 03:38pm PT
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I've put a hold on the 1985 Campbell guidebook at the library. I'll take a look. Thanks for the tip!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 26, 2018 - 04:11pm PT
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NP. If I'm thinking of the right climb, there were two aid routes on the Habrich road listed in the Campbell guide - Easy Day for a Lady (at the present Ultraviolet Cliff) and another one, which might have been called High Country? I think that latter one was the one that was further down the road, near the present gate location.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 26, 2018 - 07:14pm PT
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It didn't look as if anyone had been up there before, but does anyone know of any development in that area?
Even if no one knows of any development in that area, there still might have been development in that area. Way back when, no one was keeping track of that kind of thing. Somebody -- like you -- saw something and went up on it to see what was there.
If it turned out to be something that caught their attention, they worked on it and you can now read about it in a guidebook. But if they lost interest, or found something that seemed more compelling, then it disappeared from human ken.
Examples? Sure. When we were working on what ultimately became Borderline, my partners were stuck in the US for a while, so I went up and cleaned and climbed the fourth pitch. And, despite the fact that the whole wall was without any evidence of previous passage, I found a next of hexes in the crack under the roof. Since it was hexes, and not pins, it was placed no earlier than the mid- to late-70s. But I never learned anything about it.
Someone exploring something on the wall above and having to bail?
That seems the likeliest explanation. But who knows?
Or, again, when we were working on part of what eventually became Rock On, there was no sign at all of any previous passage. Dirt-filled cracks complete with trees and roots. Which we dug out. So we assumed we were exploring new territory. But Hamish Mutch (posts here as Hamie), has shown me pictures of the third pitch taken when he climbed it a decade or so before we did.
That pitch was under an overhang, so needed no cleaning, so it's possible that the first two pitches we climbed were different from what he climbed, but who knows?
People have been exploring the rock around Squamish for what? 70 years? So who knows if the virgin ground you ascend is really virgin? Maybe Tricouni or Hamie, or the guys from the Squamish Hard Core, checked it out before you were born.
Doesn't matter. If it's new to you, it's new to you.
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pixel
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Sep 28, 2018 - 08:59am PT
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You should check out the van isle aid scene for more of the same
Frostback, your comment takes me back to the time I put in in the southern Vancouver Island winter whitewater kayaking scene. Hypothermia was never far away.
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Todd Eastman
Social climber
Putney, VT
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Sep 28, 2018 - 01:47pm PT
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Frostback, your comment takes me back to the time I put in in the southern Vancouver Island winter whitewater kayaking scene. Hypothermia was never far away.
Metric Type 2 Fun...
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pixel
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Sep 28, 2018 - 08:52pm PT
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Oplopanax, you were right! The 1985 Jim Campbell guide's description of High Country matches the mystery crack.
The 45-metre length marked on the topo suggests that they continued farther through the jungle at the top, though.
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Jeff G
Trad climber
Fort Collins
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Sep 29, 2018 - 03:19pm PT
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Jeff G
Trad climber
Fort Collins
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Sep 29, 2018 - 03:21pm PT
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Sep 29, 2018 - 04:16pm PT
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Nice recent additions to a now venerable thread.
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Jeff G
Trad climber
Fort Collins
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Sep 29, 2018 - 04:31pm PT
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Sep 29, 2018 - 05:32pm PT
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Hope everyone got a chance to enjoy the recent bit of high pressure before the perpetual gray arrives.
Here’s one I took of Chris Trull leading out on the first ascent of Shoulders of Giants while Jon Rigg holds the rope.
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Aeriq
Social climber
Location: It's a MisterE
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Sep 29, 2018 - 08:48pm PT
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33 & 1/3 traverse was the saddest FA I ever did.
It's in the Squamish Bouldering Guide
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 30, 2018 - 07:33pm PT
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Let's keep climbing -- yes, even Squamish climbing -- on the first page...
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 30, 2018 - 10:04pm PT
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^ or the climber, but I'm not that brave.
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Bill Noble
climber
Golden BC
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Nick Jones nailed a roadside cliff that way in the 80's. I'm sure we weren't the first to sample the general area. The cliff was left roadside up near a bend in the road at the valley "entrance". There is a short bouldery cliff nearby with hand cracks down off the road lookers right. There's the odd fixed piece kicking around the valley for discovery. I guess the idea is to go climbing lines that appeal and not fuss about if anyone has been there before. It used to feel very remote up that way.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Is that the start of Orifice Fish, ghost?
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Can’t say I know what’s up with the station at the flats, is it new?
Belay stations are popping up like hot cakes these days
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Up from the skies saw a recent ascent so I wouldn’t be surprised if that’s the one. I’m away from a pc so unable to confirm with the bigwalls guide.
Great photos everyone, hope the lurkers on here come out of the gray shadows and share some too!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Is that the start of Orifice Fish?
It's "Just Blessed" in the Valley of Shaddai. Way off the beaten path, no road noise, no crowds... A completely different feel from any other crag/area in Squamish.
Well, I haven't been there for a few years, but up until then there were no crowds.
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domngo
climber
Canada
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I was guessing orifice fish too - Valley of Shaddai has some gems - I’ve heard there’s been quite a bit of development there in the last couple seasons by a Mr.Mali and co.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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He's too busy selling ICOs for vegetable matter-backed cryptocurrencies.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Picking up where Ghost left off:
How many routes can you name here?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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How many routes can you name here?
Name? None.
How many can I see? Boatloads.
What are we looking at?
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Could be wrong but I think this is one of the first walls on the chief that catches to sun...that main right facing corner system i will venture a guess as Promised Land?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 16, 2018 - 12:27pm PT
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Holy Ghosts & Talk Show Hosts is somewhere in there too right?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 16, 2018 - 12:28pm PT
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... and tha tties in with vegetable matter cause it's pretty much the backside of Indica Point no?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Salutations.
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pixel
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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January 26 seemed wet enough for the Lost Coz traverse. After years of wondering what the Vulcan's Artery looked like up close, it was super cool to be able to climb across it. Thank you, Chief, for putting that up!
(BTW, reconsidered my safety system after this. I added a prussik to take the slack out of the system and decrease the chances of taking a high-factor fall on a knotted sling.)
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Good to see Big Mike and Pixel enjoying the Coz Way (aka The Lost Coz).
Still very much a project in the works that will probably tidy up into a bitchin' adventure hike if someone doesn't steal all my gear again.
Regarding lanyards, I've come to appreciate how dangerous my accepted choices have been over the decades and the fact is, the impact forces on your average looped daisy chain are potentially horrendous.
I now run 2 meters of 10mm dynamic on a Gri Gri Plus in the top rope setting to prevent slack from falling through the device the way the older Gri Gri's allowed.
This allows me to minimize slack and free fall potential and the Gri Gri Plus will limit the impact force to 4kn ish similar to an E4 shock pack.
I run a pair of them when clambering in the high steel at work and think of Cozzy every time I step out of a lift into the perms.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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^^^^^^^^^That can't be Big Mike. He promised earlier on this thread that he would always wear a helmet. If you can't trust Big Mike..........
Looks to me more like one of Castro's younger relatives.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 22, 2019 - 09:18pm PT
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zBrown
Ice climber
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May 29, 2019 - 09:26pm PT
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7550 Bump
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| Messages 1 - 7550 of total 7550 in this topic |
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