Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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New topo for missing section after July 2015 rock fall
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squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
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The Spring is running, and should be for at least another week and a half.
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max factor
Trad climber
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Spring was running good on Sept 13. Great route, we were able to manage a one day ascent which seems way better than hauling. A single #3 camalot and a single #4 camalot were nice to have. Single set of stoppers was plenty.
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juan.brein
Trad climber
London
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So we did the route on Saturday in a day. I posted a video with the rope toss: [Click to View YouTube Video]
The new pitches are:
Pitch 11:
Climb a new bolt ladder (8 bolts). At the moment one of the hangers is missing so we clove hitch a sling to the washer. Easy pendulum to a 5.8 mantel on loose rock. Build a new anchor takes BD 1 - 0.50
Pitch 12:
5.11 with some fixed gear. Go up to the higher bolt and:
Execute a rope toss
Use beaks and hooks and aid higher to pendulum to the chimneys
None of both add difficulty to the route.
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Reinhard Brand
Big Wall climber
Austria
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Shuttled some gear up on the hottest day of the season today and checked the springs, both are running but not too much. Good enough to fill your bottles though.
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Neil Adams
climber
Glasgow, Scotland
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The spring was running on Saturday (7th Sept).
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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RETREAT BETA
At any point on the climb, you can retreat by rappelling the route. There are some sections like Thanksgiving Ledge and Double Crack Pitch that will require a mixture of rappeling and belayed climbing.
About two thirds of the anchors are fixed with either bolts, pitons, or fixed gear. On all the other anchors, you will have to leave your own gear.
Here is a list of anchors that are NOT fixed:
12, 16, 17, 19, 20, 21,
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jung
Big Wall climber
Subaru wagon
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I climbed this absolutely stellar route in June 02, it was the most enjoyable big wall that I have ever done, I think mainly because it had so much free climbing at a comfortable level and there arent many(any?) pitches that are yosemite sand bags.
We climbed the route as a team of 3, one leading, one cleaning and one jugging a free line with a seperate rack and a back pack with our bivy gear and a mini rack to supplement the leader with gear placed on the last pitch. We had an 8mm tag line, and two lead lines, with three 60m ropes we were able to fix the first five pitches just barely. #2 and 3linked with rope stretch. The chimney pitches can be almost completed in one 60m pitch, this saved us quite a bit of time, however you do need some wide gear for the belay at the end (like a number 3 and 4 camalot). I do not recommend this if you are hauling because this belay area would really suck if you were and may slow you down more than doing the regular pitches.
I tried this wall as my first wall and failed miserably cause we were hauling too much sh#t which slowed us down to a crawl at the start (really bad hauling). This time we only had one backpack between three, 3 liters of water per day(at the time we climbed the route was in the shade until 2 pm) and had the most enjoyable big wall so far i highly recommend going light on this one.
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Before doing Half Dome in a day, I looked around for postings that listed times for various pitches on the route and didn't find a huge amount. So here's my time percentage for various points on the routes from when my partner and I climbed it. The listing is based on both climbers just getting to the top of the pitch.
P6 20%
P10 30%
P12 38%
P15 50%
P17 56%
P20 80%
We are better free climbers (including chimneys) than we are aid climbers and to save weight, we took minimal aid gear. So the zig zags took a while (straight forward, but slow). The pitches after the zig zags were slow due to fatigue and darkness (we started several hours after daybreak). There was a day party above us, and a party hauling below us, but neither slowed us down. The only jugging the second did was on the zig zags and we got by with one ropeman and a grigri (real jugs would have saved a bit of time here).
We only took single cams from tight hands up to a 3.5 friend (same as #3 camalot). The trigger wire on the 3.5 broke part way up, so our largest piece was a 3 friend (slightly larger than a #2 camalot). In the future, I would probably only take the #3 friend (skip the 3.5) and instead take more lighter, finger size cams to leave as pro on the aid pitches. I didn't aid off any stoppers, but I left a few behind as pro on the aid pitches. There is plenty of fixed gear on the aid pitches (bring lots of slings). I got by without a cam hook or any offsets (aliens or stoppers). I found some of the bolts on P22 pretty reachy and I'm 6'.
A #4 friend (#3.5 camalot) would protect the double crack on P17. There is an inside edge for the hands and a second crack for the outside foot, so you don't have to fist jam it. It is pretty secure for 5.9. There was not as much pro as I was expecting on the 5.9 squeeze on p14. In retrospect, the 5.7 airy chimney might have been as safe (and no doubt less strenuous).
We linked pitches and did some simul-climbing. P 2 & 3 link without simul-climbing. We linked 5 & 6 with simul climbing (the second had to simul through a short 5.9 pin scar section). From P6 we simul (watch rope drag) to the end of P 10. We used rope tension to pull the second up the bolt ladder as the leader lowered off on P10. We were going to simul out from Thank God Ledge on but darkness and fatigue precluded it. We also had some rope drag due to blocks right before the 21 anchor (after the 5.8 squeeze).
The spring at the base is running fine.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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great photos and trip report here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=214668&f=0&b=0
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Caddy
Trad climber
Folsom, CA
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Guy Graening and Curt Taras of Folsom, CA Climbed the North Face of Half Dome in 2 days with a night spent at the Pitch 11 Bivy. We free climbed most of the route, aiding the bolt ladders, the Zig Zags, and used aid assist in places for speed. We took a day for the approach via the trail and a morning to decend via the slabs. The heat slowed us down some since it was in the 100's in the Valley. Water was preciously available at the spring. The only little bit of trash I saw was tourist junk from the summit. We carried out a Frisbee, some bottles, and a toy airplane. The slabs descent was intact but covered in places with fresh talus from the recent rock fall. Altogether a wonderful combination alpine/big wall style route.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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Here you can see the snow conditions at the base as of April 24, 2009
Visit on flickr.com
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meclimber
Trad climber
Newmarket, NH
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I figured that's what he meant, thanks.
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TMayse
climber
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Just climbed the route on Saturday. The route is dry although you have to scramble up to the base which is covered in snow, I did it my crocs and changed shoes on the rock.
We hiked up from the valley floor (slab approach), did the route and came back around to grab our approach shoes. We had to negoitate snow by traversing 170' (roped in)to get back to HD's base. It sucked but better than hiking out via John Muir or Mist Trail..
Hope that helps..
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
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-yes
-I did, many don't
-3 qts/person plenty- in shade until early afternoon
there are fixed cords at pendulums, but generally you swing on the lead rope, no?
-a hook, a cam hook, & green alien will speed up the next to last pitch traverse
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mackattack10555
climber
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I had a few questions for anyone who has recently been on this route please. Was wondering if the 4th bolt had been replaced on pitch 22? I have been reading thru old posts/beta in prep to do this route and there were some comments about the bolt missing. If it hasn't been replaced, what is the recommended way to do this section? Was also wondering about the small gear in terms of cams. The gear recommendations say 2 sets of Metolius Master Cams. Was wondering if it's good to have a few more small pieces, or if that size range would more than cover? or is it comfort level dependent? Also read about beta for a hook, cam hook, and green alien on the last pitch traverse. Is that about right? May not have a cam hook, is this a necessary piece of gear for the route? Last question, was wondering about those approach slabs. Pretty much any info would be good. My partner and I are trying to determine how hard they will feel with heavy packs on? As well are the fixed lines on them in good condition? Thank you to whomever can answer some or all of these questions. Hope everyone is doing well out there.
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D-Rail
Trad climber
Calaveras
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This route is awesome! What a great adventure up an iconic wall!
Death Slabs: all fixed lines are there, your hands will thank you if you bring gloves (especially for the descent).
Gear: there is tons of fixed gear on the route. You only need a set of doubles up to #3 camalot. We did the aid variation on pitch 12, and linked 18 +19, and got to the belay with half a rack left. Bring extra biners and draws to clip fixed stuff, and for piton anchors. Offset nuts are very nice, and a medium cam-hook is the ticket for the pitch 22 bolt ladder.
Make sure your haul-bag is small enough that the follower can wear it for the lower angle / traversing pitches, 8 + 9 especially.
Pitch lengths: #6 is way longer than 145', more like 185. We linked/simuled 8-9, this is way longer than the combined 220' that the ST suggests. (lots of rope drag, would have been faster/safer to just pitch it out). And pitch 16 is closer to 160'.
And make sure you are prepared for inane tourist questions when you top-out; as I am building the last belay: "did you just rockclimb up here?"
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ericb
climber
CA
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Danholio,
The spring was running great when I was up there on Sept. 5th. Didn't seem like it was drying out anytime fast.
A few notes about Half Dome that climbers should know: When planning on camping at the base we are asking climbers to swing by the Wilderness Permit Office p: (209) 372-0745(next to the post office) and grab a free permit. This also allows you to rent a bear canister ($5) if you don't want to deal with hanging your food 40ft up the route. One of these two methods is required, hanging food in a tree hasn't been an effective method against bears.
We've been happy to see climbers respecting the permit and food storage. One of the most obvious advantages to climbers is that it will let you know roughly how many people will be up there and cut back on crowding.
One last thing. PLEASE don't bury your toilet paper up there, it takes decades for it to decompose and natural "tp" (rocks, sticks) work just great. If you must have that cottonelle then pack it out in a ziplock bag.
What a great route! And props to whoever can get that #4 out of Thank-god ledge... I've already tried twice.
Eric
Yosemite Climbing Ranger
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Blaise
Big Wall climber
France
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Hi
We climbed the RNW route on June 11 and 12, 2012.
We made the approach on June 10th through the Mist trail - the Rangers having told us that the spring was drying out - and carried water from Little Yosemite valley upward!
The spring was still running and the water excellent.
Walked down on June 12th to take our stuff at the bottom of the face, slept there and walked down on June 13th through the Slabs.
Fixed ropes were there, in various level of form and shape but we used them.
Great climb, painful approach both ways.
On our side 1rst time in Yosemite - since we came from France.
Philippe
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travis h
climber
CA
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Spring is running as of 9/1. I found a camera at the base that was dropped from around thank god ledge. Camera seems to be broken but the memory card is fine. Let me know if this is your camera and I can return it.
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phile
Trad climber
SF, CA
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9/23/12: the springs are dry. There's a trickle of water near the top of the fixed lines if you're desperate, but it's barely flowing and is tricky to get to.
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Brandon Adams
Big Wall climber
Monterey, CA
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Can four people (2 parties of 2) bivy at or around Big Sandy Ledge?
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Fixed ropes are in good condition. At least two ropes at all places.
At the upper split I think its best to go up the left side on the way up. When going down, rappel the right side "50m rap"(see photo below). There is a fixed static line at the 50m rap that has one knot you must pass, but it is super easy to do so. The other line that is fixed at this spot has many tied off core shots, and should be avoided for rappelling.
Slabs are wet in one place, but there is a fixed line to cross the running water.
Spring at base is flowing.
Tons of people on the route yesterday, 5/19
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climbski2
Mountain climber
The Ocean
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Potable is a relative term. I went non-filtered and had no issues and I would be comfortable doing so again. Hard to recommend it to others as my level of acceptable risk with water is probably higher than most. Generally speaking high sierra water is safer than most city water based on the water studies I have seen. At least where people are not likely to be using the bathroom. However this is a heavily traveled area and YRMV. It can get muddy/gritty once it gets low. I hear it currently is getting low. Donini now has the concession wrapped up so get yours while you can.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2154794/Half-Dome-spring-concession-at-last
Pic courtesy of cosmiccragsman
[Click to View Linked Image]
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whitemeat
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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both the springs are running as of 6/21/13
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Madskates
climber
SLC, UT
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The spring is running at full blast as of 3/3/15. All the lines are looking good on the death slabs as well.
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mountain lover
Trad climber
camino, ca
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As of 6/10/ 15, Spring is running full bore, gave me 4 liters in less than 2 minutes. Fixed ropes are in.
While starting up to fix first pitch, there was rock fall from the summit. One of the parties said it came off the Visor and looked like someone rolled it off the Visor, but it also could have just peeled off the visor. There were 7 parties in cue to climb the next day, 4 bailed after the rock fall (3 separate events apx 5 minutes apart from each other, apx bowling ball sized boulders). They free fell and did not hit wall until about top of pitch 3 0r 4 or so and just right of the route. I hugged the wall and got sprayed by sand falling the larger chunks landed further away from the wall. We reported it to the rangers.
After no further rock fall through the evening and night, decided to go for it and did not have any the next day.
Be safe out there.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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I'd be worried about chunks of that chimney falling off. It was previously supported by the big ledge system (that fell off). The chimney seems to be held on from above and behind, but no longer below.
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mountain lover
Trad climber
camino, ca
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We did the route on July 28/29
Supposed to be in a day but bivied on big Sandy. Spring was running. Good bivy sites at base. I nailed the rope toss the first time that was easy for me. The new bolt ladder to pendulum to a ledge was pretty straight forward went pretty easy just a
few reach ones. The last bolt ladder was a lot harder I thought pitch 22 or so. The last bolt well out of reach from top step of aider I tossed a sling with biner on end through a loop cord someone left tied to the bolt clipped my aider to that. After clipping a real runner into bolt I realized the cord hanging I had just aided on was shoelace. I left the runner to facilitate others getting to that way too stinking high bolt. I thought the last exit pitch I would run on, but route finding was a bit tricky. Miserable as bivu on big Sandy was finishing in dark would have been worse.
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Whatever
Trad climber
Strabane, PA
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Looking for pics of the route. I've been on it twice. Once to the bivy at 6 and once to the belay at 8. Don't ask, it'll get sent this year! Don't care with who, when, whatever! I've searched the web pretty extensively, got what was good, but sitting here in the dreary weather of the NorthEast could always use some more. If you're interested in swapping info / ideas or want to hook up at Seneca or The New to climb, drop me a line. Looking to head out to The Valley in Jul, Sep and any other months I can convince someone into going.
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Southern Man
climber
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I got a documentary movie of the route being free climbed (titled oddly enough - Free Climb). Got it at Chessler Books and a whole bunch of mag. articles on the route. I guess you have Scott Ghiz's pitch by pitch description.
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Couloir
Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
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Erich,
Half Dome is a very dicey climb at the end of March. Just getting to the base of the route means ascending some steep snowfields. All of the ledges will be covered with snow and ice, as will several of the cracks. The end of March is also the stormiest time in the valley. That time last year was the start of one month of near daily rain and snow. You would be better doing Washington's Column or Leaning Tower or El Cap. And the cables stay there year round but are not mounted up in the winter so you have to pick them up and hike down icy and snowy slabs.
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Em Holland and Bruce Bindner
Advanced climber
Yosemite, CA
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NW FACE OF HALF DOME
In June 2001, 3 new bolts were placed on NW Face of Half Dome to supplement or replace existing old 1/4" bolts at three bivy ledges. All drilling was done by hand.
P6 belay anchor, placed one new 3/8" Rawl 5-piece stainless bolt on the face above bivy ledge, just to left of main crack. This bolt is positioned to either back up the existing fixed pins/tied off block 15-20 ft below the bivy ledge, which currently serves as the only reasonable hauling anchor. With long slings or rope it can also back up the marginal bolt and gear placements which anchor a bivy on the sloping ledges.
P11 belay anchor, placed one new 3/8" Rawl 5-piece stainless bolt on right side of ledge, replacing two old 1/4" bolts. Removed existing 1/4" stud (no hanger, damaged threads), and existing 1/4" x 1.25" splitshaft buttonhead with Leeper hanger. Given the manky appearance of this old bolt, it was surprisingly difficult to remove. Patched hole with rock dust & Superglue.
P17 belay anchor (Big Sandy Ledges), placed one new 3/8" Rawl 5-piece stainless bolt on face at base of the left-hand crack starting P18 for use as a bivy/belay anchor and a hauling anchor. Note: there was an existing, relatively new 3/8" stainless bolt on a large, but apparently detached block at back of Big Sandy Ledges above where Direct NW Face route joins in. The hanger on this bolt was loose (spun easily), and the bolt itself could be unscrewed with finger pressure. We tightened this bolt, however we would recommend that subsequent ascent parties keep an eye out for potential loosening of either the bolt or the block it is attached to.
NOTE FROM CHRIS MCNAMARA
Em and Holland did a great service which all climbers should be thankful for. To find out how you can replace bolts, visit www.safeclimbing.org
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Michael
Novice climber
Yosemite, CA
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We are planning to climb the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome next summer via big wall tactics (3days). What time of summer is best to avoid the crowds? We don't mind a little heat as long as your feet aren't on fire.
Is August too hot and are the crowd down? Would a portaledge be way overkill or would it be nice to chill on night 1 or if Big Sandy is too crowded? I am also wondering if the mandatory free climbing sections protect well (anything 5.7+ or harder).
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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Half Dome is crowded from june to october. The best strategy is to show up at the base with an extra day to wait in line and allow for parties to get high on the route. temps in august can occassionaly be scorching in the afternoons but for the most part, half dome is a cool place to climb year round. A portaledge is overkill if you are planning to do the route in two days. if you are planning to spend more than that a portaledge would be nice. however, keep in mind that the approach to half dome is grueling and any extra weight will suck. also, the hauling is terrible on this route and the porta ledge will need to be packed inside the haulbag or it will get thrashed. i would reccomend training until you get fast enough to do the route in one night (bivy on big sandy). its much more fun that way.
good luck!
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Erich Krueck
Trad climber
Huntington Beach, CA
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Hey! Well I have some questions I was hoping someone could help me with. Two friends and I were hoping to climb HD. The only time we can all make it is the last week in March '04 I’m not overly familiar with Yosemite's Climate, what kind of temperature range could we be expecting? Would this be a dangerous time of year to do it? Also, for the descent are the cables usually up that time of year and if not what would be the best way out? Any info would be greatly appreciated. THANKS
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Southern Man
climber
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Read the last post on this beta page by Scott G. and then go to his web site (use the "Search Internet for Beta") for more useful info. Scott did the route in May and reported pretty chilly conditions in the a.m. I think you will be rolling the dice regarding weather for the time of year you plan on climbing (check rainfall amounts and temps for Yos. on the Supertopo web site). Pacific storms roll in with regularity during this time of year, so come prepared. On the other hand, it's possible to hit a clear weather window and have the NW face all to yourselves. Three climbers (at least in the case of me and my regular two climbing partners) will slow you down some which means that doing the RNWF in a day could be a challenge. So if it takes you more than one day, I assume you'll be hauling and this route isn't the easiest for hauling (again read beta on Scott's web site). My last bit of advice is to give alot of thought to your approach, it can make all the difference in success or failure.
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Austin
Intermediate climber
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Climbed the route 5/11-5/12, entirely dry except for last pitch, approached via the slabs on Friday PM where we found all but the last two fixed ropes in place and proceeded to bushwhack to the base, quite heinous. We left gear at the base and returned to retrieve it on Sunday after descending the cable route. There are several snow slopes to cross on this gear retrieval which would be quite treacherous to cross anytime other than in the afternoon after they have softened up so plan accordingly. Excellent route, easily run in two days with minimal bivi gear.
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Southern Man
climber
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When people say the approach is the crux and to go light and fast, do not and I repeat do not underestimate what they are saying. The slabs approach is tough, way tough especially with 60+ pound packs. It took us six long, hard hours to get to the base and we were WAY tired when we got there. I can really understand why some people don't even attempt the route after doing the approach. We were pretty sure the approach was going to be a haul and were in good climbing and hiking shape from 8 months of running and training for this route but we should have gone way lighter with the packs. And the Mist/Muir Trail approach (8.2 miles) isn't much easier. Also, if you opt. to take the Mist/Muir trail approach, it looks like getting from the shoulder to the base of the climb takes some not so obvious trails. On the positive side the Supertopo directions for the Slabs were super accurate.
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TK
Intermediate climber
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Did the climb in two days, spending 1 night on Big Sandy. The temps in The Valley were in the 90s but felt somewhat cold wearing pants and a windproof jacket on the dome. The temp. change is pretty drastic and the winds can cool things down pretty quickly. The spring was still flowing and filtered all the water I needed. All I can say is that a mid-August ascent was a perfect time to do this classic.
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Matt
Trad climber
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I'll bet you can track down info on the cables through the Mountain Shop in the Valley, or through the NPS if that fails. Last year at that time there was lots of snow on the route- even into April if i recall, because there was a series of Spring storms and that face doesn't get much sun until the sun moves a bit to the North. Expect to find a lot of snow at the base, plan for a huge time consuming pain in the ass, both on the approach & getting back around to the base, and make some back-up plans just in case.
Would I want to do that climb in the early part of the season if there wasn't an early season warm spell to dry the Valley up some? Nope...
But hey, have fun.
http://www.halfdomecam.com/
http://www.yosemite.org/vryos/index.htm
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Check out
http://www.halfdomecam.com
See also
http://www.bigwalls.net/climb/rescue.html
There's some description of what it was like to get to the base (of the South Face) suggests what it might be like to come around from the hiker trail. Besides, it's a good read.
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Jer
Trad climber
Rochester MN
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Hello all!
I'm heading out to the valley mar 23 and have just a couple of Questions;
1) Will the base of the regular route on half dome be reachable?
2) What are some bench mark times to reach certain points on the route to do it car to car in a day (24hrs)?
3) What would be a few cracks be that emulate what the zig zags are like?
I can onsight any 5.10 and plan on simo-ing anything less than that. I am from Minnesota but this will be my 10th year climbing in the valley so I am familiar with the terrain!
All beta appreciated!!!
Cheers!!
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Luke
Trad climber
CA
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Jer-
I hiked up to the base of HD on the 12th march from mirror lake. You'll find a few patches of snow on the way up, no big deal really, and there was a lot of ice covering the last fixed line- although most of it came down when tugged on it. scary. I would not recommend being halfway up those slabs when the sun gets on them (midday-ish?). Also, the 'sloping bivi', p6, was obviously covered in snow as was the 'hotel' ledge half way up the Direct, not to mention the large snowfield across the base (i dont think this is really a problem though). Also noticed some seepage from the chimneys, p13 maybe. Hope this helps- enjoy your climb!!
Also, thanks to whoever added the two red fixed lines!
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Jer
Trad climber
Rochester MN
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The whole route looks do-able for where my ability is at! Just feel sketch about the squeezes up high. I'm trying to figure out a fast not so scary way to get through those sections. Does any one know the dimetions of the chimneys? How deep? How wide? Would a big cam be able to be slid along for a consant toprope on lead?
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Jason Archibald
Trad climber
MD
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I climbed HD for my second time on May 17-19, 2003 with my pal Curtis.
Jer, the chimney pitches have plenty of smaller cracks in them and pro is no problem. I would aid the diehedral on the left on pitch 12, then tension travese back to the chimney. You won't need anything larger than a #3 Camalot for pitches 12-15. The squeeze slot on pitch 20 after thank god ledge could take a #5 Camalot, but that's the only time you would use it on the entire route.
The snow at the base extended all the way down to the normal bivvy spots, so we slept just below that. The spring was running like a small river from the snowpack! There was some water in the chimney pitches (12-15) and on the double crack pitch (17), which was too bad since this is some of the best free climbing on the route.
Pitch 22 had a lot of water on the last half of it, which made the french freeing (or is it freedom freeing now? heh) along the headwall MUCH more diffifult. And pitch 23, we couldn't believe it, was entirely covered with snow. It was a class 3 snow ramp! My buddy nearly dead-manned a #4 Camalot as pro! :)
Incredible climb, despite the water on the route it was much better than the first time I did it.
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Matt
Trad climber
MD
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The slabs approach is the crux.
There were 4 parties of 2 on Monday 6/16 and 4 parties of 2 starting up on the next day as well- if you are planning to this route on a weekend you might want to be early!
The ST is awesome for this route.
You don't need nuts at all.
Bring a 3 and a 3-1/2 cam.
What a great day!
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