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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 8, 2010 - 01:51pm PT
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After seeing the great stories and pictures of the Arizona appreciation thread and not finding a similar thread for Wyoming I thought I would start one, please disregard if it already exists. With the likes of Devil's Tower, the Tetons, the Winds, Cody, Vedauwoo ect., ect., ect. there should be lots of climbing related material so post up.
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedr Woolley, WA
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Mt. Hooker!
Thor
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Awesome! I roped up for the first time when I was 17 at Hoback Shield, and thereafter began having epics in the Tetons. I'll add some pictures this weekend when I have some time to scan.
Here's one from when I returned about 10 years later as a smokejumper- we jumped a fire on the Bridger Teton National Forest and are at the Jackson Airport loading up the rig to go back home:
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cowpoke
climber
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I think I've posted this one in another thread too, so recycled, but wanna join in...
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Someone said Mt. Hooker? This was a failed attempt in 1984.
BIG WONDERFUL!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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The East Ridge of Wolfshead!!!!!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Some shots of the brotherman in the cowboy state...
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jack herer
climber
veneta, or
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Who has been to Sweet Water Rocks before? I found this to be one of the most amazing crags I've ever visited... a mini Tuolumne all to your self. We almost got shot at by hunters on our way in. I'd love to see some more pictures. I have not met ANYONE who has climbed there. We did some awsome multi pitch slab climb up Lanken dome that was rated 5.7+. It was truely incredible. As well as some silly little A1 route on some smaller rock. Anyways who knows more?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Get this straight,
there is No climbing in Wyoming!
not in Vedauwoo, Balir, Curt Gowdy sp, the Boy scout Ranch, chimney rock, the Snowies, Four stories, Fornification, Laramie peak, The ames monument, The lincoln summit limestone (and certainly not a 5.10 mantle on Abe's eyebrow) area, Rogers canyon, on the 289 to Fart Collins, Fremont Canyon, the Bighorns (esp not cloud peak), Devil's Tower, the Missouri Buttes, White Rock Tensleep Can, around Sheriden or Cody, the Tetons, the absoraks, Blacktail butte (Jackson is, in fact, a hole [and not really Wyo anyway just an outlier of LA or Ketchum or something]) Jellystone, Sinks, wildf*#kingiris, flaming as#@&%e gorge, those crags outside of Evanston, the weird towers by Rock Springs, Casper mtn, the traverse along the front of my brother's old office building (now law office of Daley & Daly) on Gillette ave in Gillette,nor the .11+ finger crack ibid, nor any yo of the chuwater falsies on various buildings all over the U of Wyo, and the cracks on the classroom building, The new climbing structure made to suggest deto at the Campbell county rec center, doesn't exist. In fact none of the gyms exist, sweetw#ter gap is a myth, there is no Ice Climbing nor wall climbing Lander is, in fact a pipedream of some hippie NOLs instructor.
Nope, nothing,
better to stay at home in bladder, I mean boulder, or So cal, where you have it all, and don't have to put up with that pesky wyoming cowboy spirit.
That climbing bed and breakfast by Devil's Tower allegedly run by one 'Colonel Sanders'? Please, okay pull the other leg.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2010 - 04:24pm PT
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Defenately no climbing in the Clarks Fork. Just all that damb ice getting in the way of a 600ft slip-n-slide.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Wyoming? isn't that coal and wind and dinosaur bones?
Nope, never did climb there...
...that sky you see? not as big as you think...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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and the sheep, and the rednecks, lack of rules, taxes... i tell you, it bites, that horse on the lic plate, bolting for greenieland.
No Chix
You never know who may butt in,
No fun at all
uppity locals
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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The north Laramie range is rugged and beautiful and has wonderful climbing.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2010 - 04:51pm PT
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60 here today probably more like 75 on the south face of the tower.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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No, nuthin in Cowlorado, neither.
Just lik goathead said up avob. . .
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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You know, wyoming had the first woman governor in the USA? The Nerve...
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Dick Danger
Trad climber
Lakewood, Colorado
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Lankin Dome, and the rest of the Sweetw#ter Rocks are good. I understand there may be some access issues now.
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IkeH20
Social climber
NY
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Jaybro...you crack me up!
...Wild, wonderful Wyoming!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there mike m... wow, just got to bump up these great photos, thanks so very much... :)
thank for the share all...
:)
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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diggin' out some Wy. pics...
4 from the Winds....
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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How'd you leave out Lankin Dome and the Rattlesnake range (edit: i.e. Splitrock) Jaybro?? Sheesh...yep, definitely no climbing there. And, there's definitely no climbing at Dome Rock, a little chosspile on the way to Miracle Mile, so don't even think about hitting it up while you're not climbing at Fremont Cyn.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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still one of my favorite places
i'd love to get back there
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Lots of driving through the middle of nowhere, but I still appreciate it..
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Lankin Dome looks pretty cool Mr. Danger....
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2010 - 11:13pm PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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more to come
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Rest day in Gillette
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nat's trip up the tower, Bonhomme Variation
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jack herer
climber
veneta, or
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some pics from what ever that 5.7+ R route is called on Lankin Dome...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nice!
Spin to win
Scuffy ("I don't invert")b
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Tozo
Trad climber
East of West
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Bschmitz
Ice climber
mountain view
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mojede and Mike M: have you guys ever beenin touch with Trevor Bowman that lives in Sheridan? He is the guy that has been bolting a bunch in tounge river, piney creek, steamboat, ect.....
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quartziteflight
climber
Who knows?
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Hellz yeah!
Ive bouldered a little on the tounge.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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NFB, looks like you guys are having a good time in Wyoming!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Yeah NFB really captuers a lot of the wyoming experience.
hmm my game face is slipping, I'm dropping out of character, er um stupid windy state that it is....
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2010 - 03:38pm PT
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Tozo killer shot of Haystack. NFB holy sh*t great post. I love elk they taste good. I have climbed in the Tounge but I don't think that I have met anyone that develops there. Is there climbing at the Fallen City? That place looks cool. Jaybro seeing that you like the wide have you done Bonne Homme straight up. It goes at 5.8 but I hear it is really wide and the 3rd pitch of Tugey Wood is a beauty only given 5.9 but it is fist and offwidth with minimal feet for 160+feet. In my opinion harder than the first two pitches strung together which are given 5.10a each. If anyone has a good picture of that pitch it is truely impresive. Here are a few pictures of the Bearlodge and Sundance Mountain from Crow Peak outside of Spearfish. While we are not technically in Wyoming I have been trying to get them to reunite the east and west Black Hills and let us into Wyoming. TEAR DOWN THAT WALL
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Yeah Mike, I've actually spent a lot of time at the tower, onisght soloed Bonhomme,done it many times, did Tulgy Wood, McWest, Mr Clean etc, in the the late seventies early eighties, actually climbed El Matador when it was a nailing route, and many times since as a calf burner.
Some of my best friends are from South Dakota, well three anyway. I say let you guys in! Though first you have to apologize for Sturgis and the Yuppie/faux outlaw biker influx every year....
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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There's no natural hot springs out there and noo climbing on that spire, total chosspile.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Great climbing in Wyoming! Could be even better if you moved Wild Iris to Nebraska.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2010 - 05:44pm PT
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Apologize for Stugis, I thought you guys would be thanking us for getting them out of your states for a week. We used to rent our house out for that week and leave. Done some good road trips that way. Before I had a house it was off to the Winds a lot.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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The locals are kinda weird...
like you better watch your step around them.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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I show up at DT and Ed has the biggest scab I have ever seen on a person- had about the same area as a football
Ed was built like a brick sh#t house but he had a tendency to overgrip.
So he's doing Soler with "some Brit"- same old story. He styles the first half and trhen he starts to feel the pump. He can see the chains and he decides to go for it. He plugs in a friend and starts to run.
Bad move
Meanwhile at the belay the Brit is trying to light a cigarette and damn if it isn't windy- needed two hands to cup the match.
Well two things flare out at the same time- as the Brit is cursing the smoldering match he notices the rope beginning to whip around his feet.
He cinches the rope off but not before Ed has taken an 80 foot flying lesson
Only in wyoming
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:18am PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:20am PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:21am PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:24am PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:27am PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:28am PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:31am PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:33am PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:36am PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:38am PT
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Our son was 11 when he took this picture and he said, "so mom and dad what are we climbing today?"
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:39am PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:42am PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:44am PT
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was wondering when the Museum who get in on this...
was that shiprock?
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:44am PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:45am PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:47am PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:50am PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:51am PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:53am PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:54am PT
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jack herer
climber
veneta, or
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:55am PT
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Anyone got more Sweet Water Rocks climbing photos? So much more I wish I had done there.
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:57am PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 01:00am PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 01:01am PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 01:03am PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 01:04am PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 01:07am PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 01:11am PT
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Jaybro - Boar's Tusk N of Rock Springs...not worth a second trip.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 10, 2010 - 01:20am PT
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Ah! Okay, i'll get to other things first....
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Mimi
climber
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Apr 10, 2010 - 02:35am PT
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Sick thread!
That north Laramie cliff reminds me of Eldo. Very nice!
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perswig
climber
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Apr 10, 2010 - 07:24am PT
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NFB's pics must be underwritten by the Wyoming Tourism Bureau - TOO good. Except, who brings an extension ladder to a rando race? (well, maybe the French)
Nice quiver of handmade's, and thanks for the link to more pics.
Dale
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NFB
Mountain climber
Wilson, Wyoming
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Apr 10, 2010 - 10:44am PT
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I love this State. My family homesteaded in SW WYO in "Brown's Park" in the 1870s. My wife's family homesteaded in the Northern Laramie Range outside of Douglas in the 1870s. We climb rocks on the homestead land every year.
[photoid=153120]
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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Apr 10, 2010 - 10:54am PT
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NFB brings the win!
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The LG
Sport climber
Salt Lake City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 11:05am PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 10, 2010 - 11:24am PT
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Did you go to Uniwyo, NFB?
has anyoe ever seen a campus with more ornamental cabbages?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2010 - 12:10pm PT
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Not bad, 85 posts before a sport route showed up.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Apr 10, 2010 - 02:26pm PT
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Very nice thread. I was wondering if any hasbeen ex wannabee roaming here ever got rescued out of the bergschrund below Gooseneck Pinnacle on Gannet? You would be around 60 now, and are/were a dope smoker.
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 09:54pm PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 09:56pm PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 09:58pm PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 10:01pm PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 10, 2010 - 10:02pm PT
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Apr 10, 2010 - 10:54pm PT
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Re:
Very nice thread. I was wondering if any hasbeen ex wannabee roaming here ever got rescued out of the bergschrund below Gooseneck Pinnacle on Gannet? You would be around 60 now, and are/were a dope smoker.
This is of interest, since I am in the right age range and qualify as a hasbeen/neverwas. Four of us did climb Gannet via a gully behind Gooseneck in Aug. of 1971. From the top of that gully we scrambled low fifth-class rock and some snow to the top. I never have found that route in a description of available routes on Gannet?
Christ! Did we do a new route?
At the summit we fell into bad company, and smoked some dope----just to be sociable.
On our un-roped way down the regular route: one of our party, slipped just before the schrund, and slid over the edge.
He fell about 12 feet, and landed back-first on flat and hard snow. No problem getting off the route, but there were some long-term back problems for my friend.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 11, 2010 - 01:02am PT
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Psst, Mike M, Ed posted a photo of a sportclimb early on, but you didn't hear it from me....
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adam d
climber
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Apr 11, 2010 - 01:19am PT
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Gannett bump...
On the North Ridge...
Others coming up from the Gooseneck side...
WTF?! AKA Making the most of what got hidden in your pack...(grape smugglers and personalized mirror)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 11, 2010 - 02:08am PT
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Where else?
But in the equality state?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 11, 2010 - 02:14am PT
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Where flared cracks abound,
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 11, 2010 - 02:23am PT
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And good friends, abide
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2010 - 02:51am PT
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Jaybro missed that sport climb on that boulder. Is that undr Shiprock? There must be about a million possible sport climbs possible on the limestone in the Big Horns alone. I put up a bunch of climbs in Spearfish Canyon, but the scale of the sport climbing potential in Wyoming is stagering. I was never very good at it and so I moved on to greener pastures. Here is a wall next to the Tensleep flow that is 200 feet of a triple wave of overhanging dolomite with holds all over that is quite impresive.Nothing like this in SoDak thats for sure.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Apr 11, 2010 - 02:53am PT
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Fritz - the rescue I'm referring to happened around '73 - '76, don't quite remember. A couple of 20 or so year old climbers were downclimbing a bit of ice above the 'schrund, without rope. One of them slid off, whacked his back on the lip of the 'scrund, and disappeared down the crevasse. We rapped down to him, about 30 feet down, and got a rope on him. We managed to pull him out, and he seemed more or less OK, except for a messed up shoulder. The two of them continued down, and we went on up.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Apr 11, 2010 - 03:19am PT
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Hi, All of you!!
Still here, Connie and I send all are love!
Dogtown.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 11, 2010 - 10:12am PT
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Dawg in the house!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 11, 2010 - 10:26am PT
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Maybe Jogill can give us beta on this one,
actually I think I asked him earlier and he did, dang this alzheimer's.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 11, 2010 - 10:42am PT
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Wow! This has turned out to be a really nice thread....gasp!..about climbing!
I need to get some of my old pix transferred from Kodachrome to digital. There has been a notable absence of climbs from Fremont Canyon, however. Either the place isn't that widely known, or it simply scares the $hit out of too many visitors. Kinda' like rapping into an elevator shaft carrying Jumars as backup.
If I can find my pix, I have some of non-OW climbs at Veedauwoo: "5.11 Crack" and "Water Streaks," both of which are rated as 5.9+, and are very enjoyable as well as requiring good face technique. "5.11 Crack" has defeated many good climbers with the combination of thin crack, friction, and face moves required. A bonus of climbing "5.11 Crack" is access to a toprope anchor for Paul Piana's fierce and bouldery "Gunga Din" at 5.11a/b. After I led "5.11 Crack" in 1988, Anne wanted a try at "Gunga Din" so I rigged a toprope for her. She was able to do the route clean and in good style, but I must have ground 1/4" of soles off my Sportivas trying the damned thing. Very technical face/friction on pegmatite crystals, and very abrasive on shoes as well as fingertips.
Bumper sticker seen on many Wyoming licensed cars: "Keep Wyoming Beautiful; Don't Move Here!"
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 11, 2010 - 10:51am PT
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Bill Kuestner leading '5.11 crack,' 5.9
8/12/08
My frement cnyn photos are slides somewhere in the archieve.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 11, 2010 - 11:04am PT
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The blank face just to the right: "Gunga Din." If my memory serve me, there are only one or 2 bolts. Seldom led--mostly done as a TR.
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Apr 11, 2010 - 11:12am PT
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IkeH20
Social climber
NY
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Apr 11, 2010 - 01:14pm PT
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I did some climbing back when, and I'm a hiker now. Lived many years in the Cowboy State and go back every summer. When I'm not there, I dream about being there!
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IkeH20
Social climber
NY
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Apr 11, 2010 - 01:16pm PT
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IkeH20
Social climber
NY
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Apr 11, 2010 - 01:17pm PT
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IkeH20
Social climber
NY
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Apr 11, 2010 - 01:21pm PT
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Most beautiful wildflowers anywhere!
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IkeH20
Social climber
NY
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Apr 11, 2010 - 01:24pm PT
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IkeH20
Social climber
NY
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Apr 11, 2010 - 01:26pm PT
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One of the most accessible and beautiful hiking areas, ANYWHERE!
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IkeH20
Social climber
NY
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Apr 11, 2010 - 01:27pm PT
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IkeH20
Social climber
NY
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Apr 11, 2010 - 01:34pm PT
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More of the same, but always different.
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IkeH20
Social climber
NY
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Apr 11, 2010 - 01:37pm PT
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And let's not forget Wyoming's rich history...
The only prison to hold Butch Cassidy.
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IkeH20
Social climber
NY
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Apr 11, 2010 - 01:42pm PT
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Don't know the backstory on this structure outside Laramie...anyone want to help me out?
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IkeH20
Social climber
NY
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Apr 11, 2010 - 01:43pm PT
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IkeH20
Social climber
NY
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Apr 11, 2010 - 01:46pm PT
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The pioneering spirit left it's mark and still amazes. Wagon ruts along the Oregon Trail cut 5 feet deep into the rock.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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Apr 11, 2010 - 01:47pm PT
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chicks, cracks, & cheap cheeseburgers, what more could you need.
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IkeH20
Social climber
NY
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Apr 11, 2010 - 01:50pm PT
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Engraving at Register Cliff. One of thousands.
So that about sums it all up. What's not to love?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 11, 2010 - 03:52pm PT
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Whatever happened to her?
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Apr 11, 2010 - 06:03pm PT
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a few more from one of my favorite states....
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 11, 2010 - 10:50pm PT
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Is this, with the old fat ass guy on it, Gunga Din?
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max factor
Trad climber
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Apr 11, 2010 - 11:16pm PT
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yes,it is Gunga Din
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 11, 2010 - 11:49pm PT
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Jaybro-
Yes, that's Gunga Din; 5.11a/b. It's a little easier for taller climbers. The climber in the picture is right at the crux, if I remember correctly--maybe just above it.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 12, 2010 - 12:00am PT
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The picture also shows the entirity of "5.11 Crack" very well. There is another variation that goes diagonally up and left from the only bolt on "5.11 Crack" to join lower Fall Wall, but I cannot recall the name of the route. It's also harder than "5.11 Crack," it's either 5.9+ or 5.10a--depends on who is grading the route. I always believed that Veedauwoo routes were graded a bit stiffer than similar climbs at J-Tree, and that "5.11 Crack" would have been a 5.10a there, and "Gunga Din" either a 5.11b or 5.11c.
Do you have any pix of the "Water Streaks" on Walt's Wall? That route is definitely easier than "5.11 Crack" and is rated 5.9.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2010 - 12:22am PT
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Here are some photos of our trip up McCarthy West Face Fee Variation today and some others of some buddies on other routes on the west face.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 12, 2010 - 12:50am PT
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That's me on Gunga (hence the fat ass quip) in '08. I'm five ten and a half with a plus four ape index, and I thought it was desperate, popped twice right around there. That other route to the left (cuts out at the bolt) is Fear and Loathing, every bit as hard and sandbaggy as Fall wall, if you ask me. That bolt has been replaced, used to be a half pulled out, bent over, quarter incher, and we fell on it all the time, like the knuckleheads we were! We are of course much smarter now, yeah right!
Nice shots Mike M, the last one is too funny! Was that really today? was cohort the Colonel around? I got in a five mile trail run today befor the rain drenched sunny california, yet again, it's like a broken record... Good run but I would happily have have swapped it to be climbing classic routes on the West Face today! Cheers!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2010 - 01:17am PT
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Today it was. Only four of us on the West Face all day. The west face is usually closed this time of year due to falcon closure but apperently no nesting yet. There were falcons flying all over all day but it sure was nice. 65 today 75 tomorrow. Did you say you haven't done some climbing on the Missouri Buttes. I have always wanted to check them out but I heard the Cambells Soup Tycoon owned them and doesn't appreciate visitors.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Apr 12, 2010 - 01:45am PT
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How 'bout a little love for the Museum of the Mountain Man
in Pinedale? Best $5 you'll spend in a while...
(I think this is Locker if I'm not mistaken)
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 12, 2010 - 09:57am PT
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Jaybro-
I'm actually planning several trips to Veedauwoo this Summer--wanna' meet up? I really have a vendetta with several climbs there: "Fear and Loathing," "Gunga Din," (I never was able to complete the route--my fingertips had abraded off after 3 falls--my little wife Anne did it 1st try and no falls :>() I'm 5'10 but weigh in at 197 pounds these days. I too have a great "ape index" but it sure didn't help on Gunga Din. On the other hand, Anne was 5'0" and weighed 100 pounds and HAD NO PROBLEMS. She sure smirked a lot for several days!! Grrr!!
As you pointed out, some of the bolts were pretty manky even 20 years ago. has anybody replaced the bolts on Fall Wall? They probably caught more falls than just about any of them . Appropriately named climb, eh? Jim Halfpenny routinely climbed Fall Wall in Terray Mountaineering boots! But that was before anyone realized just how hard the climb was.
I now recall that "Gunga Din" was reported in Mountain magazine as being 5.11d by Paul Piana; "more knowledgable locals" downgraded it to 5.11a for the so-called guidebook at the time.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 12, 2010 - 10:09am PT
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Too funny about gunga din! Those tiny wiry women...
I plan to 've in vedauwoo and maybe v- deto , around the 20th of. July, chasbro's 60th bd in gillette.
Heard the same thing about the Campbell soup guy... Though I have seen topos for the mo buttes.
Once upon a time, that guy was to import and raise wild african animals there, and charge peoble to come 'hunt' them; bad karma on too many levels....
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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Apr 12, 2010 - 11:19am PT
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schurz peak secret choss pile
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 12, 2010 - 12:18pm PT
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Jaybro-
Too bad about the timing! I've already mades plans to meet some other old farts down in Colorado that week to bag some 14ers. We've got Quandary peak, Castle peak, Mt. Bierstadt, Mts. Lincoln & Bross in our sights already. Possibly Mts. Oxford and Belford, too. It's the only time my friends an I can coordinate the timing, since one friend is driving out from St. Louis, and the other flying in from LA.
The only time(s)I've been to DT I did the Durrance route. I failed one other time on the Soler--right after I was rehabbing from a shattered rt. ankle--too weak and still sore. I took a grounder in Eldo--heard the bones pop 50 feet away!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 12, 2010 - 12:22pm PT
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Re: the Campbell soup guy and his game farming--the State of Wyoming G & F put a kabosh on those plans by saying that there was no way he could keep some animals from escaping and in some cases interbreeding with local animals. That's been dead for a long time.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 12, 2010 - 01:03pm PT
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yeah, I know my bro the lawdog was tangentially involved in that one, just thought it was a colorful story, sheesh what do they have against ferrel hyena coyote hybrids, how bad could that be? Maybe african lions and cougars could be interbreed to bring back sabertoothss (sabreteeth?) What could go wrong?
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cowpoke
climber
|
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Apr 12, 2010 - 01:28pm PT
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not just the cowboy state...cowgirl state too.
go pokes!
another view of the medicine bow diamond and diamond buttress...where else can you climb 3-4 pitches of alpine and be to work before lunch?
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Apr 12, 2010 - 02:25pm PT
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Man this thread is making me want to move back home!!!!
Shawn
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cowpoke
climber
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Apr 12, 2010 - 04:51pm PT
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...the wind.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2010 - 05:24pm PT
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Definately short on the Freemont and Dome Rock Photos. I know I have some somewhere but definately not digital. I know there is some great bouldering in Cody as well. Is there any part of Wyoming that doesn't have climbing within about a hour?
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
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Apr 12, 2010 - 06:01pm PT
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Very short on Fremont Canyon shots.
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 12, 2010 - 08:44pm PT
|
We got some nice shots of mike m and his buddies...4-11-2010
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
|
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Apr 12, 2010 - 08:50pm PT
|
Devils Tower SW Buttress - easy pitches....nice weather. 4-11-2010
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2010 - 10:49pm PT
|
Museum, I was belaying on the second pitch of Mccarthy's that was my buddy Reggie doing the hard work. Lee and Tony made short work on El Mat, Mr. Clean, Tulgey and Way Layed. Thanks for posting up. That must have been you guys on the southwest shoulder. Mike
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 12, 2010 - 11:43pm PT
|
Yep, that was us.
the museum
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Apr 12, 2010 - 11:53pm PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Apr 13, 2010 - 01:00am PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
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Apr 13, 2010 - 01:22am PT
|
Nice Museum-pieces!
A couple semesters I had early morning lectures and afternoon labs. I'd blast out to the range solo something and blast (36 hp VW) back mostly on time.
One semester I had Strategraphic Paleontology @ 9:30. Mike and I would catch a ride with Layne Kopishka and his HS pe class @6:00 am, in the yellow bus, climb a few hrs and make it to class on time, as long as I didn't stop in the union to buy coffee.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
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Apr 13, 2010 - 01:29am PT
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Moonstone...
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Apr 13, 2010 - 02:36am PT
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The Grand
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cowpoke
climber
|
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Apr 13, 2010 - 07:14am PT
|
museum, that shot of elk mountain in winter is really nice, although reminds me a bit of some scary winter driving in that area. Have you eaten at the hotel?
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
|
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Apr 13, 2010 - 09:37am PT
|
Eat at the motel..at Elk Mountain?
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cowpoke
climber
|
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Apr 13, 2010 - 10:08am PT
|
Seriously.
Elk Mnt Hotel has a reputation of bringing in outstanding chefs...used to go for anniversaries, family brunches, etc. Some of the best meals I've eaten, anywhere. Haven't been in a couple years, so call ahead. You'll start to doubt me as you're heading into "town," but no foolin' you'll be glad you went.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 13, 2010 - 10:33am PT
|
Elk mtn is beautiful, but the Bane of I-80. I'm surprised they didn't put the interstate through Med Bow, closer access to Fornification crag, to boot!
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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
|
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Apr 13, 2010 - 11:08am PT
|
the locals around Elk Mountain told the Hy Dept to build I-80 through Medicine Bow and not Elk Mtn because of the nasty weather, but the government in it's infinite wisdom ignored their advice.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Apr 13, 2010 - 12:19pm PT
|
I drove that section of road right after Xmas on a trip from Tahoe to Madison Wisc. Driving 20 mph on black ice with 80mph sideways ground bizzard. There were big rigs off the road about every 1/4 mile. I have never pumped so much adrenaline through my system continually. My little VW Rabbit was amazing, but from then on I always planned an alternate route in winter.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
|
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Apr 13, 2010 - 12:47pm PT
|
moving into hiking and fishing, wyoming is still going strong....
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2010 - 01:32pm PT
|
Brian, is Moonstone in the Stillwater?
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
|
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Apr 13, 2010 - 02:50pm PT
|
The fishing is so good, usually. One time a buddy and I decided to hump it up to this lake in the Gros Ventres. Packing up, we decide to not bring much food because we would be feasting on trout. Dude, all we need is a skillet. We arrived at our above the tree line lake to find it completely frozen over. Of course, a huge storm swooped in and and kept us pinned down for a couple of long, hungry days.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
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Apr 13, 2010 - 05:14pm PT
|
Cowpoke (where'd he get that name?) about to launch up slick quartzite with iffy pro
and bad weather moving in, Flying Buttress route on Medicine Bow Peak (5.9+).
Looking back on the Medicine Bow Diamond and Diamond Buttress.
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
|
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Apr 13, 2010 - 08:58pm PT
|
Cowpoke that would be a definite 'No', but I guarantee next time we're by there, we'll eat there!
the museum
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2010 - 11:56pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2010 - 12:27am PT
|
Here are a couple of shots from about fifteen years ago on my first trip into the Winds. We did the 5.8 on Steeple. You can see the giant chimney in the background where you climb for two pitches through it and come out on the other side. You then have a gerat 5.8 pitch that is about 150ft that goes to the summit. The other picture is on the summit of Steeple with a cool view of Haystacks knife edge ridge. In the far background to the left is the cirque of the towers. I think Kelsey says that Steeple is one of the few 5th class summits in the Winds.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
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Apr 14, 2010 - 12:57am PT
|
Brian, is Moonstone in the Stillwater?
Nah, the water there is sweet, not still...
That prior shot is just to the right of this side...(rumor has someone rolled a bowling ball down the deep trough?)...
Ellingwood in the Windys
On route
Moran...
Wyoming? Why not? Whoo hoo!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
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|
Apr 14, 2010 - 09:19am PT
|
Wyoming bumper sticker: "Keep Wyoming Green--Bring Money!"
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cowpoke
climber
|
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Apr 14, 2010 - 10:18am PT
|
slick quartzite with iffy pro and bad weather moving in and I was back in the office by lunch! That day is in my all-time top ten, Chiloe, and I was mighty happy you led that slick crux.
|
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
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|
Apr 14, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
|
Cowpoke-
Do you have a topo of your route on the Medicine Bow Diamond? I did a route on that peak back in 1961 with Bob LaGrange that was supposedly only the 3rd ascent of the face. Ours was not a 1st ascent, but we supposedly elimiated most of the aid..we only used 2 points of artificial. It's been so long now that the details escape me--I still have some kodachromes that I need to transfer to digital....
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2010 - 01:17pm PT
|
Brokedown, have you tried taking pics of your pics with your digital. It doesn't turn out great, but it gets the point across. I think it was crimpergirl that turned me on to this. That is what I did with the Winds pictures above and you loose some quality, but can still see the image pretty good.
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cowpoke
climber
|
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Apr 14, 2010 - 06:05pm PT
|
brokedownclimber, check out Skip Harper's web page. It has a rough topo of many of the routes on the diamond buttress, including the climb on which the photo above was taken by Chiloe: Flying Buttress. There was also a Rock-n-Ice or Climbing issue from 10 years or so ago that covered many of the routes in the snowies. I'll try to dig it up.
edit: one other thing, that is likely obvious to most, but worth noting for others. Like any alpine area, expect the unexpected in the snowies. For example, most topos indicated rap anchors on flying buttress, but we found no indication of such...topping out completed the adventure, anyhow. And, the loose nature of that rock suggests fairly rapid changes in the character of routes over time.
another edit: meant to also say that I hope you figure out which route you did in '61...very impressive that you were up there back in the day, brokedownclimber!
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
|
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|
Apr 14, 2010 - 06:36pm PT
|
The chimney on Steeple, two nice pitches...
|
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
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|
Apr 14, 2010 - 07:15pm PT
|
The Summer of 1961 was really a breakthrough year for my climbing; I did the "Love Route" on Hallet's 2nd buttress, Stettners Ledges on Longs, both with LaGrange, and the Northcutt-Carter on Hallet's with Layton the Great 'un; finished off my Summer with the MBD. Only a few weeks later I was wearing Army Green for 3 years. LaGrange was a favorite partner of mine since we both were math/science types. Bob LaGrange was later an associate professor of mathematics at UW in Laramie, until his death just a few years ago.
Added as an edit: It looks like we did some variation of the Diamond Express!? Can't be sure until I find my slides and copy them.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
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|
Apr 14, 2010 - 07:20pm PT
|
David Wilson, what is that wall in your first pic??? Holy!
Anybody??
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David Wilson
climber
CA
|
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Apr 14, 2010 - 09:19pm PT
|
bluering, that is called "the monolith" and it's near the cirque of the towers. beckey did a route on the right hand side.
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
|
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Apr 14, 2010 - 09:34pm PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
|
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Apr 14, 2010 - 09:46pm PT
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
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|
Apr 14, 2010 - 09:54pm PT
|
The Snowy Range has some very old rocks, 2 billion years plus ... Proterozoic metasediments,
I'm told. They record a time when tectonics worked quite differently.
|
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
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Apr 14, 2010 - 09:57pm PT
|
bluering, that is called "the monolith" and it's near the cirque of the towers. beckey did a route on the right hand side.
Appropriate name. Geologically accurate too.
Thanks.
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cowpoke
climber
|
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|
Apr 15, 2010 - 07:29am PT
|
Museum, man, that big horns picture is fantastic. The place captures my heart. I still remember the first time I saw those peaks in the distance, while driving from Laramie to Billings to visit relatives. I swear the car wanted to turn left toward Buffalo, and I started working on excuses for missing relatives.
Chiloe, your picture and snowies geology contribution remind me of my favorite TR you've written.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
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|
Apr 15, 2010 - 08:55am PT
|
Yeah, that's one of my favorites too. Just reread it when I dug up that photo.
|
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
|
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|
Apr 15, 2010 - 09:53am PT
|
Layne was a part of the heart and soul of Vedauwoo. Still miss him.
Dingus knows how to write a guidebook that fits in your pack and still has all the information you need.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
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|
Apr 15, 2010 - 10:03am PT
|
Falling Hoff Slab...
|
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cowpoke
climber
|
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|
Apr 15, 2010 - 12:13pm PT
|
Nice, Mike. Here is the edition of Layne Kopischka's guide that I have; it was published posthumously.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
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|
Apr 15, 2010 - 12:49pm PT
|
Layne was the man, impeccible, incorruptible, I think I have all his Vedauwoo guides even the early, co-authered ones.
He belayed me on my first 5.11 lead, Boardwalk.
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
|
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|
Apr 15, 2010 - 10:53pm PT
|
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
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|
Apr 16, 2010 - 12:32am PT
|
Jerry Sublett's guidebook (chock full o' notes):
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
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|
Apr 16, 2010 - 12:55am PT
|
Since we're on a guidebook kick....
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elemental
Gym climber
Lander, Wyoming
|
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|
Apr 16, 2010 - 02:22pm PT
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elemental
Gym climber
Lander, Wyoming
|
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|
Apr 16, 2010 - 02:26pm PT
|
The 400' limestone palisades of the Ferris. 15 miles of cliff, 1 route.
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
|
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|
Apr 18, 2010 - 12:38am PT
|
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
|
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|
Apr 18, 2010 - 12:55am PT
|
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
|
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|
Apr 18, 2010 - 12:58am PT
|
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
|
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|
Apr 18, 2010 - 01:01am PT
|
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|
the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
|
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|
Apr 18, 2010 - 01:07am PT
|
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
|
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|
Apr 18, 2010 - 05:35pm PT
|
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
|
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|
Apr 18, 2010 - 05:40pm PT
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
|
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|
Apr 18, 2010 - 05:46pm PT
|
we should have a sushifest up there one of these years.
can you camp out without getting "tooled"?
|
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2010 - 12:00am PT
|
Lots of good free camping in the state. I love sushi, but Wyoming is a long way from the ocean. MM
|
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
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|
Apr 19, 2010 - 02:23am PT
|
Doug, yes and yes
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2010 - 04:25pm PT
|
Hope to be doing some of this in Wyoming next week.
|
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2010 - 05:27pm PT
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
|
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|
Apr 21, 2010 - 07:06pm PT
|
Ah, memories. They compensate (a bit) for becoming a living dinosaur.
This photo is from before my time. But at one time I lived approximately where the outhouse in the center of the shot is, in a remodeled chicken coop.
This was in my backyard as I was growing up. We bagged the FA of this face in February 1971, with "modern" techniques. Local crazies had been to the top much earlier.
This was where I got started as a climber, soloing about.
My buddies and I pushed our limits out here.
The skinny pinnacle got its FA in the '70s, while the larger one on the left waited until the '90s. Both still unrepeated, I'll bet.
(All photos from the web.)
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
|
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Apr 22, 2010 - 05:00pm PT
|
Love the approach to Moran.
Summit. Please note the white cotton socks and home made climbing helmet.
Dave. We made the helmets together.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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Apr 22, 2010 - 05:08pm PT
|
Where are those spires Larry?
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Apr 22, 2010 - 07:05pm PT
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Firehole, Flaming Gorge Reservoir.
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cowpoke
climber
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Apr 23, 2010 - 02:44pm PT
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Over 200 posts and not a single antelope?!?
no rodeo?!?
I'll stay on topic with some "climbing appreciation," but Wyoming deserves more love.
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cowpoke
climber
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Apr 23, 2010 - 02:56pm PT
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Robb
Social climber
The other "Magic City on the Plains"
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Apr 23, 2010 - 03:47pm PT
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"Over 200 posts and not a single antelope?!?
no rodeo?!?",
No local color neither???
To heck with that.
From the other evening,
Thunder Banger on the prarie,
This evenings light show,
Looking North,(I like the population density)
And last,but not least a bit of local color.
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cowpoke
climber
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Apr 23, 2010 - 04:06pm PT
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^^^^^nice.
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cowpoke
climber
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Apr 23, 2010 - 04:14pm PT
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passing some of the locals while headed to Valley Massif:
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cowpoke
climber
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Apr 23, 2010 - 04:25pm PT
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some more locals and color...
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2010 - 04:58pm PT
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Hey no sheep or goats either. That reminds me when we were staying at a friends house in Cody and we were watching this show on Wyoming PBS about "Goat Packing". We could not remember teh name but we laughed quite a while about the title. It ended up being a very cool show on how this guy has these goats that pack his stuff into the winds and how the goats could go places lamas could not like on glacier/snowfields if I remember right. I found this on youtube but have not watched it but it seems like this could be the same crew. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fbs9_MXQ7mE
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cowpoke
climber
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Apr 23, 2010 - 06:57pm PT
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cowpoke
climber
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Apr 23, 2010 - 07:35pm PT
|
now that's Wyoming. fabulous, max factor.
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IkeH20
Social climber
NY
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Apr 24, 2010 - 11:18pm PT
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Interesting story followed this photo...later in the evening we were following a hay truck south of Pinedale when a herd of 30 or so antelope decided to cross the highway. The trucker had no choice but to keep driving through at 70mph, killing at least 6 or 7 of them. Had we been leading the drive with our SUV, we'd have been killed for sure. When it comes to antelope, where one goes, the rest always follow, even when it makes no sense.
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IkeH20
Social climber
NY
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Apr 24, 2010 - 11:20pm PT
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max factor
Trad climber
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Apr 24, 2010 - 11:50pm PT
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Great shot Ike!
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Pabs
Trad climber
WY
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Apr 25, 2010 - 06:14am PT
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 25, 2010 - 01:36pm PT
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Neat looking crag you have there.
Cool snake too.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2010 - 12:54am PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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mike m, how is that Last Laugh? I suppose we should just go do it...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dick Danger
Trad climber
Lakewood, Colorado
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Great shot of Devil's Tower. Collected somewhere online, maybe here? Not sure who to credit.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Wally Pocholka? and yes, it is!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2010 - 04:16pm PT
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Bschmidt, it is the Carotid. I have not been up there much, but the guy I was climbing with, Rich Berry, was super psyched to see it touching. He did a super job leading it and it was probably the best I lead I have seen anyone do ice. It is hard to see from that picture, but only the middle pillar was touching the other two pillars formed up in front of that one and were hanging about 15 feet off of the ground. He wnt up on the middle pillar and had to break off the bottom of the left pillar which then formed a 2-3 foot roof which he promptly pulled and then had to run it out for about 15-20 feet in seriously ground fall type terain before he could get in a decent screw as the ice was very crappy at the bottom of those pillars. I had seen your post on CC of the Silver Cord. That thing looks awsome. Looks a little like Broken Tree which if you have not done it is well worth doing. It is a super cool route with 4 full pitches with no walking in between and it is only WI4.
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NFB
Mountain climber
Wilson, Wyoming
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2010 - 12:44am PT
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Mark Devries putting in two screws on the ghosts. I sure am glad I carried in about 10.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2010 - 06:07pm PT
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Went to try to climb some ice on Friday, but it was 65 degrees and there were two feet of fresh wet snow that was the consistency of wet cement that closed the road and kept us from getting too far. That was at around 8000 feet who knows what it would be like at 12,000. Boaters looking for beg creeking should head to the Big Horns next week as the forecasted 60-70 degree temps is going to melt a lot of it.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 18, 2010 - 11:06am PT
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Robb
Social climber
The other "Magic City on the Plains"
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May 18, 2010 - 11:29am PT
|
Whoa!
Donald Sutherland climbed in WY???
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 18, 2010 - 11:30am PT
|
Well, it IS oddball....
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 18, 2010 - 04:46pm PT
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Bschmitz
Ice climber
mountain view
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May 18, 2010 - 04:50pm PT
|
Frank is the MAN!!!! May great days and weeks spent at Franks. Could never thank him enough for the time he has let the Bozeman kids spend at his beautiful homestead.
P.S. Is that a picture of Pamela Pack?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 18, 2010 - 05:28pm PT
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I'm pretty sure.....
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2010 - 12:00am PT
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Is that her leg above her head?
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daendil
Sport climber
Indianapolis, IN
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May 19, 2010 - 01:04am PT
|
AWESOME thread!
I am a Lander native, and every time I go back I make sure to head up to the Sinks, or, if I have the time, to Wild Iris. I have always wanted to climb in the Cirque and still hope to one day. Sooner than later, though I'm a young buck so I have a little time... ;)
Thanks everyone for sharing what our beautiful state has to offer, climbing and otherwise!
Billy
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 19, 2010 - 01:55am PT
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adam d
climber
|
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May 19, 2010 - 02:00am PT
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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May 19, 2010 - 02:10am PT
|
hey there say... ikeh20...wow, great shots... antelope, and tetons????? mts, at any rate... :)
say, also, hey there to jaybro, divad, museum... hmmm, thought there was someone else here, i've seen alot here...
just slipped,my mind, i reckon...
well, mike m... great shots, too...
thank you guys for the great photos...
god bless... many happy more climbs...
:)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
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May 19, 2010 - 10:57am PT
|
Goat and I are of course revisiting, Spectre man
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
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May 19, 2010 - 02:38pm PT
|
Elcapinyoazz gives it a go;
Couldn't let the kids have all the fun;
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Robb
Social climber
The other "Magic City on the Plains"
|
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May 19, 2010 - 03:14pm PT
|
"Elcapinyoazz gives it a go;"
The 1st pic, now THAT'S a Voo tape job!!!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
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May 19, 2010 - 03:23pm PT
|
1 Spectre Man= every climb at Wild Iris and then some.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
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May 19, 2010 - 03:26pm PT
|
Wild what?
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
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May 19, 2010 - 04:40pm PT
|
He forgot to tape his ankles too! Brave soul!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
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May 19, 2010 - 05:45pm PT
|
No Robb, that's
a "voo tapejob".
and, it's Vedauwoo
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cowpoke
climber
|
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May 19, 2010 - 06:11pm PT
|
^^^nice.
my voo tape job for hands looks slightly different, however; I tape a couple strips halfway over the sleeves, rather than under.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
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May 19, 2010 - 06:29pm PT
|
And now everyone else knows why the rock at Vedauwoo has a distinct red color!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
|
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May 19, 2010 - 06:46pm PT
|
Cody rules!
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
|
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May 19, 2010 - 09:00pm PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
|
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May 19, 2010 - 09:08pm PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
|
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May 19, 2010 - 09:11pm PT
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
|
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May 19, 2010 - 09:13pm PT
|
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2010 - 11:16pm PT
|
Museum, have you ever done any climbing on Inyan Kara? I have been up there a couple of times and kinda looks like the south face of the tower. I have always meant to get up there and do a route, but have not made it back.
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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May 19, 2010 - 11:27pm PT
|
mike we climbed it three times - twice from the north and once from the southeast then followed the rim clockwise to the top.
We did no climbing. I suppose there are a few good pitches....
the museum
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
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May 20, 2010 - 12:11pm PT
|
Dingus used to hang there, I've never been, looks cool.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
|
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May 20, 2010 - 12:21pm PT
|
Zander kicking out the jams.
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Bschmitz
Ice climber
mountain view
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May 20, 2010 - 12:26pm PT
|
new guide book coming out for the sheridian area this spring! buddy has bolted hunreds of routes in the area!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
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May 20, 2010 - 01:01pm PT
|
What is that, Goat? looks familiar...
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2010 - 01:09pm PT
|
BSchmidty is that for Tounge River, Ship Rock, Story area?
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Bschmitz
Ice climber
mountain view
|
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May 20, 2010 - 01:22pm PT
|
Yeah, tounge, pine creek, steamboat, the lost city, other stuff on 14. He is even going to include some alpine routes in it I think. He was going to publish through JoJo's press but then that went under, so he is just getting his self publishing under way. Last time I spoke with him (Trevor Bowman) he said that it had just been sent off to the printer. Should be a great addition to that area. So much great rock, very close to town and sheridan is undoubtly one of the better towns to live in WY, IMO. I will make sure and give it a shout out on here when I get a copy. Have you ever met him before?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2010 - 01:31pm PT
|
I have climbed in the Tounge a few times, but it has been about 10 years. The Lost City(or is it the Fallen City) looks awsome, but I have not walked over to it. I am assuming you walk over the hill at the top not through the valley straight across from there. It looks like there are some splitters in the 150 foot range. Is there bolted climbs there? Someone should deffiately post some pictures of the Lost City if anyone has them.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
|
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May 20, 2010 - 01:56pm PT
|
padless ascent of Cupcake Jay.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
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May 20, 2010 - 03:26pm PT
|
I knew it looked familiar...
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
|
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May 20, 2010 - 04:01pm PT
|
This thread is so great! I"m loving the photos and thinking back on some extremely fun times in the Tetons and the Winds. I was back there last summer and had a fantastic 10yr anniv. trip...Thanks for the cool pix. If I knew how to put up pix...blah blah.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2010 - 10:56pm PT
|
Museum, did you ever see Custer's name carved into the top of Inyan Kara. I have a picture of it somewhere on film I will post if I can fin it and scan it. I know that mountain is on the most significant to the regional tribes and it is a bit of a sore spot with them.
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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May 20, 2010 - 11:12pm PT
|
mike, on the first two adventures we didn't know about it so we didn't look.
And the third time we forgot to look!
So no, we never saw it.
the museum
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 21, 2010 - 12:32am PT
|
So in '67 or '68 the U of Washington Ski Club went to Jackson. We stayed at the Moose. Somehow some of us got in to town. Al and I walked around and decided we'd try this place called the Cowboy Bar as it looked pretty authentic. Of course neither of us was 21 but we figgered whathephuk would a bunch o' cowboys care? We strode through the swinging doors trying to look like we owned the joint and headed for the bar. As the heads of the serious patrons, any of whom looked like they could have posed for a Marlboro Man poster, swung in our direction out of the inky shadows came a piercing cat-call followed immediately by something like "Yoo-hoo girls, over here!" To say we were a bit shocked isn't the half of it. I was 6'-1"/180 and Al had me by an inch and a good 10-15 pounds. Granted, I suppose we did look a bit on the preppy side but really! With perfect timing we executed a perfect about-face that would have almost brought a smile to the face of our Navy ROTC gunnie's face and marched right out of there. Maybe it was the Van Heusen button-down shirts?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 21, 2010 - 12:58am PT
|
Dingus McGee of Laramie (Native of Custer (or the suburb of Hill City?) Told me about that Custer signature @ Inyo Karn and knows where it is, did...
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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May 21, 2010 - 01:06am PT
|
Just took this picture two days ago. I so wish we had more time to explore. Good news is the Tetons will be knowing me well in the coming year.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 21, 2010 - 01:33am PT
|
Rotation in Jackson?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
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May 22, 2010 - 02:38am PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
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May 23, 2010 - 10:04am PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
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May 23, 2010 - 11:29am PT
|
Short but Wide as interpreted by a short but slender artist?
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NFB
Mountain climber
Wilson, Wyoming
|
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|
May 23, 2010 - 05:07pm PT
|
Skiied perfect winter powder early this morning!
Another season transition from Winter straight in to Summer!
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cowpoke
climber
|
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|
May 24, 2010 - 04:33am PT
|
from Winter straight in to Summer! so true.
p.s. nice shot of grand traverse, Jaybro.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2010 - 12:27pm PT
|
Wyoming bump. I dug out some old photos and did some scanning today.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
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|
Jun 10, 2010 - 01:10pm PT
|
Fremont Canyon note: the above photo shows the "average 'elevator-shaft' angle" pretty well! Also shows the "belay ledges" at the river banks.
;>0
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Bschmitz
Ice climber
mountain view
|
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Jun 10, 2010 - 01:25pm PT
|
Mike:
Digital Extraction, so good. Have you climbed the 2nd pitch? We kept that thing (P1) pretty clean last year. After a little gardening the thing is so so good. It is now one of my favorite finger cracks anywhere.
We also went to check that desert crack you posted, out. We walked out to that thing. There are some super old slings on the tree above it. It was filled with wasps so we didnt attempt. But we foudn some snakes out there! Frank and us were trying to figure out who may hae done it. He had no idea.
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
|
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|
Jun 10, 2010 - 01:32pm PT
|
Dan and Mike Moe climbed that 'desert crack' in about 1977. Dan took pictures but I'm not sure who has them now that Mike and Dan are gone.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2010 - 01:50pm PT
|
Mike F. thanks for the info. We had a group climb it about 10 years ago and I thought one of my friends was trying to kill the other one. There were four or five of us and we got off the Tower early and we would take that road home through the bearlodge for something to do. I had told them about this crack above these boulders I would hit occasionally. My friend had seen it earlier as well and was psyched to climb it. One of the other guys in the car had a falling out with the leader a couple of years prior and this was the first time we had hung out together in years. The belayer procedes to put the leader on belay by placing a upward directional anchor at the bottom and belayed him not connected to his harness. Well the rock at the bottom of that crack is about as soft as butter sitting in the sun. I kind of took a look at it weird, but the leader did not seemed phased as he thought it would only be about 5.8 and he started up. Well he got about half way up and started scetching out as he said it felt about 5.11 and was sandy as hell. I quickly put him on belay where he scetched his way to the top and the disaster was diverted. There seems to be miles of that sandstone around, but most of it is on or behind private property. There are some good looking cracks and boulders on the decent on the highway down to the tower coming from Sundance on your right. As for Digital Extraction that is my all time favorite climbing photo I have taken and have since lost track of the negative. It was a guy from Grand Junction about 10 years ago and he walked the thing.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2010 - 12:00am PT
|
Wyoming bump
|
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
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cooler than the meadows
|
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2010 - 07:38pm PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
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Jul 11, 2010 - 08:19pm PT
|
they have boundry issues in the Cu'boy state
greenies,'n Zonies, 'n Cali's. oh M!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 12, 2010 - 12:40pm PT
|
Climb and wear a loud hat
|
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
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|
Jul 12, 2010 - 12:46pm PT
|
In Wyoming, is enhancing holds with your spurs okay?
|
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
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|
Jul 12, 2010 - 12:56pm PT
|
I think it depends on what or who you're aholdin' onto, don't it?
|
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2010 - 01:24pm PT
|
If your so inclined I think you can get your spurs sharpened here and then you can take in some of the local art.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
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Jul 12, 2010 - 01:25pm PT
|
Yuk...a yuk a yuk...damn, you could be right pardner.
|
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
|
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Jul 12, 2010 - 02:18pm PT
|
Spring and early summer are a great time to climb in the northern Laramie Range. I made a trip there over the 4th of July weekend. Southeast Wyoming had an unusually wet spring and was much greener than usual.
Even the cactus was happy.
Of course no trip to the Laramie range would be complete without Dingus McGee.
The Hanging of Yellowstone Kelly has got to be one of the best 5.11 climbs in Wyoming, or the universe for that matter.
Of course the weather in Wyoming is always unpredictable. We experienced some of the forecast "isolated showers."
Good thing there are springs in the area so one can clean up after the hike through poison ivy.
A wonderful place -- quiet, beautiful, great climbing and wonderful wild flowers.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
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Jul 12, 2010 - 02:47pm PT
|
Beautiful, Mike, I wish I was there.
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ty gittins
Trad climber
MT
|
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|
Jul 30, 2010 - 11:29am PT
|
Wyoming is pretty rad....been down there 3 times this spring and cant wait to get back. Pictured is a great route at Devil's Tower National Monument.
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cowpoke
climber
|
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Jul 30, 2010 - 05:37pm PT
|
13 days and counting till we kick off our trip back to Wyo-n-Colo -- gettin' psyched!!
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
|
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Jul 30, 2010 - 10:21pm PT
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
|
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I always liked the name,
Wyoming
Wild-roaming
Why-roaming
Winsome – opening
...
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
|
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I'm headin back to Wyoming after 8 months away. I can't wait to see miles of nothing again. I'm looking forward to some time in the Winds after months of sucking exhaust and dodging the neighborhood gangstas.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
|
|
I always thought it interesting that the name comes from Pennsylvania.
All good.
Let 'er Buck, eh?
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robman
climber
SLC
|
|
[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photoid=165694]id=165693]id=165692]id=165689]id=165688]id=165687]
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2010 - 02:10pm PT
|
Killer shots Robman this thread is a little light on the west side of the state. I haven't done horsetail that is a really cool shot and your shots of the Winds are awsome.
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Bschmitz
Ice climber
mountain view
|
|
Okay some westside photos:
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2010 - 12:13am PT
|
Went to the tower yesterday to follow the shade as it was somewhere around 104 in Spearfish maybe only 85-90 in the shade. There was a team that beat us to One Way Sunset and topped out. Nice job. We did Klondike and the first pitch of Carol's Crack before the sun came around and chased us off.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2010 - 11:51pm PT
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
|
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|
Sep 13, 2010 - 12:25am PT
|
The Process of Belief, Crow Creek.
Hi all,
One of the nicest summers ever up here this year, very little rain had a blast!!
Dog.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2010 - 12:39am PT
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Where is Crow Creek? That looks like a great problem.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2010 - 11:13pm PT
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Looking into then back at Wyoming.
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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
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And the best part is after Labor Day, only us locals, lacking as we are in social and communication skills (per criticism of us on Mountain Project, Sweetw#ter Rocks, WY section) have the place all to ourselves!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Except fer them pesky Greenies!
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Oct 20, 2010 - 12:35am PT
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 20, 2010 - 12:40am PT
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Plus there's history there!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 20, 2010 - 12:41am PT
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Vulture?
Kemerer.
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Oct 20, 2010 - 12:43am PT
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unknown climbers on Finally 5.9 Veadawoo
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2010 - 12:46am PT
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JC Penny's? Is that like Wal Mart?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 20, 2010 - 01:13am PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 20, 2010 - 03:38pm PT
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Rick Derrick, Climb and punishment 1980
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2010 - 10:36pm PT
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The tower looked cool today!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2010 - 11:54pm PT
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Sweet lookingfingers
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 25, 2010 - 12:47am PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2010 - 01:18am PT
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Any gueses on that last finger crack here is a hint it is on the Tower. Here is another view. Who's seen this finger lock?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2010 - 01:30am PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2010 - 07:43pm PT
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Bump for wyoming climbing haven't been over there for a while but can't wait to get back.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Had the best summer ever out here, the weather was out standing, full blown Indian summer this fall we had a blast!
Mike M. Yeah,
Crow Creek is half way between the fee area entrance and happy Jack road on Vedauwoo road and is the only Creek the road crosses. The boulders are just to the south west of the Creek just off the road.
DT.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2010 - 11:17pm PT
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DT, same in the NE corner this year we hit the tower up a bunch this fall, but the last three weeks have been cold as hell. We got a good trip in at the Needles in early Nov. as well. I still think the Wyoming should let us in the Black Hills in low taxes, no people and great climbing what is not to like. We fit in well with two out of those three.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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I hear ya Mike,
I pitched my tent out there in May and didn’t take it down till three weeks or so ago. Went out to Cal. for a few weeks other than that just stayed right here.Ya know I gotta tell ya its amazing what a year of unemployment will do for your climbing skills.
DT.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2010 - 12:45am PT
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Sometimes I wish I was unemployed, but 40 hours a week for almost 20 years now. My older brother was on the dole in Winter Park for over a year and I swear he climbed more than he has in many many years, and that is with two toddlers in his mid 40's.
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Feb 14, 2011 - 01:49am PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 14, 2011 - 01:55am PT
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The top o the Grand with Moran and Jenny lake in the background?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2011 - 08:48pm PT
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Wyoming bump. First of hopefully many trips this year.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 26, 2011 - 09:31pm PT
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I love climbing in Wyoming, I started in the Tetons in 1966 and will be in the Winds this August. The only mediocre climbing I've done there is Wild Iris.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2011 - 12:05am PT
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Jim, have you ever checked out the Big Horns? Lots of walls from 10-13 thousand feet, but a lot of walking to get there. Would love to see some pics from back in the day climbing in the tetons or winds. MM
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 27, 2011 - 10:45am PT
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Mike, I took a bunch of boyscouts into the Cloud Peak area when I was working for Exum in the early 70's. Wouldn't mind going back for some new routes.
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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
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Apr 27, 2011 - 12:40pm PT
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Mr. Donini: awhh, how can you say that about our beloved piles of old clam sh#t and bat guano? So cruel to our delicate and ever sensitive egos.
You should have been around here when the boys and girls (with all due respect to their climbing talents) were working everything out up there. They told me if I wished to put up any routes on their preserve that I had to name them for cowboy and indian themes. That was pretty strange to me and I just thought to myself, screw you, I'll name it whatever I want. But, I do have the long history of being the black sheep around here, unapologetic and contrary as I am towards the 'beautiful people' and not an outstanding climber to boot.
I thought that one day I would go up there and see a big tent and Ferris Wheels and all. It was such a circus.
My final act in completely torpedoing myself in the eyes of the 'beautifuls' was take down about 75% of the signs they had put up for the 1st Lander climbing festival. There were signs everywhere, literally, to point out the way to what must have been blind climbers. It was really an excessive number of signs that really was what my friends and I considered a eyesore. This is public land and there were all these signs just everywhere. I mean, if you can't orient yourslef in a sport climbing place with a guide book, you better just leave. So, after asking that Fall if they were going to take them down (no real response), we took most of them down, leaving a few what we thought were useful signs posts. I dumped them on the floor of the shop one day in a nice way, like, hey, here are your signs.
You would have thought I'd punched the Queen of England in the nose. I won't go into the details, because all those folks are/were really pretty nice, but I think a couple of them had a little problem with perspective on the whole deal. It was pretty serious stuff for them, part of making big names for themselves so they could make a viable living at climbing.
Anyway, I've seldom heard such a chewing out as I got from a couple of them. It was on the verge of mental imbalance.
It was pretty trippy, especially since it's all on public land, though I seriously believe they thought it was somehow their Private Idaho. I drew some cartoons about it all to relieve my mental pressure. Maybe sometime I'll post them.
Anyway, a bit of local history from the black sheep side of the tracks.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 27, 2011 - 01:14pm PT
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Big Jim, we should talk cloud peak some time...
dble Owg,chillin' in the windgate, jonesin' the sherman granite....
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Apr 27, 2011 - 01:23pm PT
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That's a great story Branscomb! Good on ya mate for stirring the pot and being a nonconformist. I can only imagine what you have to deal with living amongst the "chosen ones".
Edit: Jaybro! Moving to FC, CO May 12th!!! Only an hr. away from the VOO! Looking forward to it. Hopefully the Bugaloo will be on this year?
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 27, 2011 - 02:04pm PT
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Everyone forgets Fremont Canyon; it's a pretty intimidating place.
Right now the water is too high, for many of the starting ledges are under water. The North Platte is really flowing now.
The "amenities" are minimal, but a few miles of driving to Pathfinder Reservoir will give decent campsites and water.
Carpenter's Corner, 5.8; Bushwacker, 5.9; Imjin Scout, 5.10a(X) and Greystoke, 5.10d, are my favorite routes in the canyon.
I did a recon trip yesterday to see whether of not climbing is feasible yet; it snowed on my drive home!
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Apr 27, 2011 - 03:44pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2011 - 03:58pm PT
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Brokedown, do they have a current guidebook for Freemont/Dome Rock? I forgot my book and a .5 camelot on a ledge at Dome Rock while climbing with my then Pregnant wife 11 years ago. So if anyone has seen them I would love to get them back. But I would buy a new one if they are in print if mine does not get returned. Thanks in advance. Mike
Dingus that must be your Gurnsey project. How is the Rock? It looks a little soft.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 27, 2011 - 04:53pm PT
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Mike-
There is still a Steve Petro guidebook "in print," but it hasn't been updated recently. There are rumors of a new guidebook and author, but so far nothing has come of it...
I've been updating and adding some new additional route info at mountainproject.com in addition to lots of photos. Check it out.
Locally I climb with Kelly Moore, one of the major new route pioneers at the canyon; he's still recovering from a near fatal illness several years ago, so I haven't been very active recently either.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 27, 2011 - 05:13pm PT
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Here are a couple shots taken at the Pathfinder Reservoir marina area:
I've only done one route called "Clueless," at 5.9; a 5 bolt protected face climb with a good rappel anchor atop the route. Here's a beta photo:
The rocks are a 15 minute uphill slog from the marina boat ramp parking.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Apr 27, 2011 - 05:34pm PT
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mike m,
have you ever climbed the North Six Shooter? Yes, much like it near the top this area has some soft bands. Of the approximately 250 bolts placed two did not torque up. Because of these soft bands I placed more bolts than I typically would. Notice the new rocks (from the layer above the rap anchors) strewn around the base and how flat the base ledge is underneath these. The cliff has stood solid for some time geologically -- no angled talus. This would have been washed (smooth) flat when the stream was last here. The flat is now about 40 feet above the intermittent stream bed.
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Soon-to-be-a Greenie!!!
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Apr 27, 2011 - 05:42pm PT
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Nope, didn't see your guidebook and .5 Mike at Dome Rock, and that's about the last time I climbed there too.
Dingus...what's up with that last anchor??? Couldn't you find any rock that wasn't fractured 360 deg. all the way around it? Yikes!
Broken-No one ever mentions Fremont 'cuz we didn't want a bunch of Yahoos showing up, back in the day. Even with all the "Free" advertising it gets around here, it hardly gets climbed.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 27, 2011 - 05:55pm PT
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Dick-
No problems there; Fremont scares the schizz out of most casual, drop-in climbers, who then head to Dome Rock.
I've been climbing at Fremont since 1986, and still don't really *like* the place.
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Soon-to-be-a Greenie!!!
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Apr 27, 2011 - 08:39pm PT
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Yep, it's weird to have to rap into a climb, but once you get past that, it's a gem of an area. I climbed mostly there from '94-'99. Can't wait to get back this summer and get "lowered in"!
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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Apr 27, 2011 - 08:54pm PT
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Great looking area Dingus, are greenies invited or is it off limits for us plebeians?
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homemade salsa
Trad climber
west tetons
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Apr 27, 2011 - 09:35pm PT
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Just a quick hello to a couple of old friends-
Hi Dingus from Lynne Wolfe, we met at the Tower many moons ago and I think of you often. Glad to see you're still getting out.
And Dick, please tell Kelly Moore hello from me. We climbed together at the Tower that same summer (1984) and did many classics.
lw
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Apr 27, 2011 - 11:37pm PT
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goatboy smellz,
come on up. A lot of my first ascents have been done with greenies. It is hard to get Vedauwoo climbers to new areas. Some tell me they are trad climbers not sport climbers. Some may think winter is still everywhere based on the daily observation from Laramie -- e.g. tomorrow Vedauwoo high is 46F and 66F at the Rev Wall. You are welcome at this area.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2011 - 11:41pm PT
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He has even let some sodakians in on the secret I think that is Butch, a buddy of mine from Rapid, on the summit of the little peak in McGee's first picture.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Apr 27, 2011 - 11:45pm PT
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Hi Lynne,
haven't heard your name in years. Every once in a while the Kelly Moore name comes to mind. Dylan ... "they're all an illusion to me now. I don't know what they're doing with their lives..."
And me I still on the cliff, heading for another climb.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2011 - 10:38pm PT
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Found some new projects in the Big Horns over the weekend.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Any day now I swear, makin' the trek!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2011 - 10:55pm PT
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Been talking to Dingus about going into Reese. You in Jaybro?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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when ya talkin'?
How're the snakes this year?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2011 - 11:48pm PT
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Denis says it is too hot after early July so probably within the next few weeks.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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What about possibly june 25 or so?
Wonder if Freddie is free then too?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2011 - 01:39pm PT
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Might work. I will check with the family and Dennis.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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cool, a mutual friend is talking about the 4th, might be a private affair, though...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Is it safe to climb in Wyoming? I heard there are so many wolves there now that going into the wilderness is just asking to be killed and eaten.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Wool yeah, that part goes without saying, look where I'm from...
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2011 - 11:58am PT
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I talked to Dennis and he said he was going in on the 4th and that would be a good time but would go in on the 25th as well.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I'm in on at least one of those. Headed to vedauwoo shortly, stopping in Laramie to grab bob. -so to speak
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2011 - 09:50pm PT
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Jaybro, I hear your camped out next to my bros at Vedauwoo.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 13, 2011 - 10:01pm PT
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Just had pie with 'em. Nice crew! Sattelite Dead and everything!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2011 - 01:25pm PT
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Well if you see them again today give my yonger brother Dan a hard time as it is his 40th today. Something like you will need a cane to get up those offwidths, did you put out the fire with your head or is that just all the grey coming in, or your standard gerital jokes would be great.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 14, 2011 - 01:47pm PT
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I'll work on it. I already wished him a sort of regular happy birthday. He is looking well preserved though!
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Jun 27, 2011 - 01:02pm PT
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About to appreciate not climbing in Wyoming!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 27, 2011 - 03:12pm PT
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Been at it all morning, Mike....
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2011 - 12:22pm PT
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Heading to Reese on Friday. You going to make it Jaybro?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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County 8 Club med,
Pat M, Dingus MCGee, Lute, Mike Friedrichs
Dingus Pat M, Mike M
Anne gets into it, though not as much as Lute,
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Name that Wyoming climb;
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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A mystery spot that is not in South Dakota, though Sodaks go there....
I was in awe...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I know that there is Wyoming climbing but now people are claiming that there are Wyoming climbers- what gives?
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Leishman
Sport climber
Spring Creek, NV
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Thats cool man. I grew up in Cheyenne and I remember seeing guys on multi pitches in Vedauwoo when I was a little kid, it scared me half to death. I didn;t understand that climbing involved protection of any kind, I thought if they came off the wall they were taking a ground fall!! I didn't start climbing until about four years ago and now I can't imagine my life without it!!!
Climb hard everybody!!!! Clinton
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2011 - 06:34pm PT
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Jay: What the Big Boys Eat
(private property)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oui, larry! But the no trespassing signs are all on the road East of theformation, so if you come form Rockriver, not Wheatland, you could plead ignorance. unless you have Greenie plates, then yer doomed...
How was that Sugarloaf, Mike?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 12:00am PT
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Jaybro, Sugarloaf was awesome. We did a 400ft 5.7ish chimney. We spent the rest of Monday and all of Tuesday just driving up to unknown crags and climbing what ever looked good. Drove north through the west side of the range for about 80 miles and I must have seen the equivalent of 20 Veidauwoo's. Many of the cracks seem to be seams, but there are certainly some good cracks. The rock quality everywhere seemed very good.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 12, 2011 - 06:15pm PT
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Can we expect additional areas, Dennis?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2011 - 06:43pm PT
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Did you get to the tower last week Jaybro? Keith and I are going out in Spf. Canyon on thursday if you are interested. He is coming over from Sundance and we are meeting at my place at noon. I know where there is some Limestone wide.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 12, 2011 - 07:33pm PT
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Thinks Mike. I have an appointment Thursday afternoon, but another time i could be in!
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Jul 12, 2011 - 07:53pm PT
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Jaybro,
yeah, I am thinking of posting Little Bear Gulch, aka Fortification Creek and Friend Park Pinnacle. You cracksters will love the routes on this pinnacle. Some of the wide ones I have left for you guys.
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Q- Ball
Mountain climber
where the wind always blows
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Jul 12, 2011 - 08:59pm PT
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Yup, there is a lifetime of rock in those hills. Private/Public can be a b@tch around some of the rock. I love wondering around that range.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2011 - 09:23pm PT
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Dingus made it into Curtis Gultch and those spires look cool. Are most of the established routes in this area?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 12, 2011 - 09:49pm PT
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Ooh ooh fortified Wyde? Can't wait!
Curtis gulch looks cool too...
I will be down Laramie way again here pretty soon maybe see you there?
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climber bob
Social climber
maine
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Jul 19, 2011 - 08:29am PT
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i wonder if anyone has finished the route...it climbs the buttress above the snow gully on the right..
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 19, 2011 - 10:29am PT
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Going into Ambush Peak in the Winds from 8/3 to 8/11. We have LLamas and room for one or two more people.
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climber bob
Social climber
maine
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Jul 19, 2011 - 11:57am PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2011 - 01:06pm PT
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Donini I might be interested I set you a PM.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2011 - 02:46pm PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 13, 2011 - 03:09pm PT
|
Cirque stoke?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2011 - 03:52pm PT
|
East Fork Valley. Climbed on Mid Summer Dome and Ambush Peak. Hiked over to Hooker fish on the last day after getting spanked on a 10 hard first pitch variation of a 9+++, put up by Dick Williams I believe.
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daendil
Sport climber
Cedar Falls, IA
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Aug 13, 2011 - 04:46pm PT
|
Damn, I love this thread! Thanks guys!!!
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homemade salsa
Trad climber
west tetons
|
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Aug 13, 2011 - 08:31pm PT
|
I love the East Fork. That Red Dihedral on Ambush was one of my favorite routes ever. The very last pitch was stout! And then we went over to climb the west face of Musembeah, incredible. The top 4 pitches of that thing are a 5.9/10a arete into the sky. You belay for the final pitch right on the tippy top.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 15, 2011 - 01:10am PT
|
Almost forgot, Bonhomme on Devil's Tower with Gary Carpenter
Note, Henry Barber (or partner) in orange, on Tulgy Wood ledge, lower left margin, for scale.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 14, 2011 - 12:10pm PT
|
So I just drove by this place near Saratoga, WY. It looked awesome!
These shots out the window at 75 don't do it justice. There were some
rocks that looked over 100'.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2011 - 01:25am PT
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Spent a couple of days at the towere with a crew from Billings and took a Craig up the tower for the frist time.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
|
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Reilly,
The rocks you photographed, south of Saratoga WY, are in the Baggot Rock group.
The region with the tower on top (Needle Rock) is public land and has public access. To get there take Baggot County Road east of WY State 230 about 4.2 miles north of Riverside, WY. Follow this road less than a mile and turn north following a fence line east of the road.
The biggest Baggot rock group is east of the Encampment River on public land but with no public access. Welcome to Wyoming.
I was there this weekend. The place has perhaps 15 routes. They are trad with an occasional bolt. According to my bouldering friend, Davin Bagdonas, Bagot Rocks is an outstanding bouldering area. On Saturday a UW van of the Outdoor Program released a trove of these climbing types to remark the chalk on some boulders.
The rock type is gneiss with surfaces granular to smooth.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dingus,
Yeah, I figured there would be some access issues. I was just passing through
but, damn, that place was nice! There must be a bazillion boulders there!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2011 - 11:28am PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
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Been playing around with video a little. Here are some Ft. Collins guys on the third pitch of Tulgey Wood 9+. The dude who led it was like 6'7" and had some seriously big mits.http://vimeo.com/30160891 Sorry if it is a little boring. Kind of like watching someone climb a 165ft offwidth.
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NFB
Mountain climber
Wilson, Wyoming
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Oct 12, 2011 - 05:02pm PT
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Getting excited for ski/ice/cold climbing season!
Living here makes skiing a large part of climbing and life in general. Looking forward to another 7 months of skiing related adventure.
Antother photo blast
FALL ICE/WINTER SNOW, HERE WE COME!!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 13, 2011 - 03:52pm PT
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What 'route' down did Rick Wyatt take when he free heeled the Grand?
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NFB
Mountain climber
Wilson, Wyoming
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Oct 13, 2011 - 04:57pm PT
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Jaybro,
Rick skiied the Ford-Chevy-Stettner in the early eighties free heel, solo, no rope (downclimbing where most rap)
Here is a photo of Rick, CB and myself after CB and I skiied the same route a few years ago. We ran in to Rick in the Meadows.
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Cor
climber
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Oct 13, 2011 - 06:17pm PT
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My wife topping out on the feather crest pitch.
feather buttress, warbonnet, wind rivers.
sunset from the summit.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 13, 2011 - 07:16pm PT
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When it works, one of the things I love about this place is that I can ask a question as obscure as that might seem, to the mainstream, and get an almost immediate answer with photos! Cheers NFB! Have we ever met?
You guys are way gnarlier skiers than I!
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Murzerker
Social climber
Land of Goats and Tacos
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Nov 11, 2011 - 11:48am PT
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Wyoming! Bahhhh
One of my favorite states
Bump for awesome!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 11, 2011 - 01:49pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2012 - 10:06am PT
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NFB where are you in the picture with the rock climbing and the glacier below in the series above. Another bunch of great shots^^^. I got over to Tensleep yesterday and did the Leigh Creek Flow. What a beautiful place.When done in one pitch it is a big one. All of a 190 feet. I have not gotten the whole thing on lead yet but Keith lead it up twice. The upper half is quite steep and was quite dry ice that was only about 4-6 inches thick. Many places you could see right trough the flow with the ice only being about an inch thick. Hopefully will get this one on lead soon.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sweet shots folks!
Cor- How was the Feather Buttress? Really want to do that one...
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Cor
climber
Colorado
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Jan 26, 2012 - 12:11pm PT
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steve,
got your email, thanks for reminding me of this thread!
we have climbed on pingora, wolfs head, overhang tower, sharks nose, block tower, watchtower, warrior1, and warbonnet.
the feather buttress (and black elk for that matter)
is one of the best climbs i have done in the winds! (cirque)
(out of 15 different climbs we completed...)
highly recommended to anyone who wants some adventure!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2012 - 08:46pm PT
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NFB
Mountain climber
Wilson, Wyoming
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Feb 13, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
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Cor,
+++1 for Black Elk. Amazing little big wall. 1000 feet of pure awesomeness. I hope to climb this route another five times.
Mike M,
Thanks again for more photos of random Wyoming. Tensleep and Shell canyons are so amazing. Perfect limey, amazing un-explored granite, ice, a whiskey factory in Kirby, what more can you ask for?
The photo you asked about (i think,) is from a series of routes we linked on the North Face of the Middle. I wrote a TR about it. That is Sam Macke cleaning the Robbins aid pitch before he hung it way out there on a tenuous ice pitch.
Here's a few ok photos of a trip to ski Mt Moran last summer:
This route caused an uproar (brief one) over bolting ice lines among the old guard. Turns out the ire was for naught. (now that the whole f&^#er fell down)
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Feb 14, 2012 - 09:35am PT
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Mike M--is that "big wall" granite with the ice flow on it the CFY?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2012 - 02:26pm PT
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Edejom, that is where it is.
Dennis, nice video. I think I wrote a message on that other area you posted on MP in the Laramie Range. Pat and I went to do what we thought was a splitter but was just a seam. Looks like there are a lot of routes up there. We did one that was like 5.9 or easy 10a and then got massively stormed on.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2012 - 12:33am PT
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Dennis this one looks cool. Did you say there was a 4 pitch 5.11 up that.The Laramie Range has an unbelievable amount of rock and it all seems good. My brother and I had never been there and just drove around climbing cracks we would find. Very fun, then of course there was the guided tour of Reese. That was a good week.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 16, 2012 - 12:45am PT
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Dingus, I didn't realize what a budding Felini you are! Really liked the sound track on the second one. What is it?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2012 - 01:34am PT
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That is one bad ass crack. That picture does not do it justice. It looks to be very over hanging for 50ft with a wide hands flaring crack with a pod or two.
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nature
climber
Aridzona for now Denver.... here I come...
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Feb 16, 2012 - 01:35am PT
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Looks like a good place to have a SushiFest
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2012 - 01:46am PT
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Never been to a Sushi fest but I can garuntee a sushifest at dingus's house would be very interesting.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2012 - 01:57am PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 16, 2012 - 12:59pm PT
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Thnx Dingus, actually i like that video too.
Mike M There is only One way to do that crack justice! And if we approach from the East we can honestly say we didn't see the no trespassing signs... long as they don't shoot first...
Love that shot of Family home night on Dingus' Couch!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2012 - 04:03pm PT
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It is amazing to me to look at Reese in the picture of the whole mountain and see how small the actual part of the mountain we were climbing on was. Some of those routes were over 300ft I believe and Dennis's area is so small compared to the larger whole.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 16, 2012 - 04:09pm PT
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Dennis' is a small presence that sees the larger picture....
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
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The climbing area we were in is just the brown rock to the right of the caption about the same size as the caption. I believe Dennis said there are over 300 routes that are up to 300ft 30 bolt sport routes right there on fantastically featured granite. I think the rest of the mountain has barely been touched. So there seems to be a little potential left.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2012 - 11:19pm PT
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Did we climb on that ^^^^wall?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 22, 2012 - 02:30pm PT
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Wow what a photo, you can see individual landmarks!
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Feb 22, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
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My general impression of Devil's Tower. Cool formation! I'll have to come back again, maybe on a cragging road trip? Vedaw00T!, DT, Needles? :-)
Best car camping site views ever. The slow team on the Durrance route provided dinner entertainment. :-)
Is this a normal occurrence on the Devil's Tower Summit? Now we just needed some birds.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2012 - 12:53am PT
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Looks bomber to me.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2012 - 03:35am PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2012 - 03:45am PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Cheers! Yesterday?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2012 - 02:54pm PT
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Jaybro did it yesterday. Had not planned to but no one was there when we got there. Jack got up the 2nd and then we went for it from there. It was a little warm in the sun probably close to 80 so he had to work for it. He got a little gassed toward the top of our 6th pitch and needed a little more than gentle encouragement to make the jump traverse. We were the last cars out of the parking lot.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Woot! That's his first time isn't it?
Good going, Jack!
And cheers to one proud dad!
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Ralphy
Trad climber
Green Honda Element
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First time in Wyoming last week. Loved it.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2012 - 11:31pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2012 - 11:17am PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2012 - 01:11am PT
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Is that Fremont in the 2nd to last shot MIke?
Stellar photos!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2012 - 09:08am PT
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Yeah Freemont in both shots.Here are some more from a weekend exploring the Laramie Range and a few days at Freemont. the upper gorge is very impressive with the water running high right now. I have never been there when the water is high.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Cool, hope to be up there next weekend.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Ooh oooh, the wide roof in the third one!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2012 - 12:13pm PT
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Thought you might like that one Jaybro. There were many roof cracks in this area, but my computer is messed up and I have not been able to properly look at them. I went to this area after our trip to Reese last year. Did did a lot of looking around but no actual climbing as I was with the family and many had some decent approaches. I estmated that roof to be over 20 feet hoizontally maybe more.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Wow!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
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Jaybro actually that id not the big one after looking at thr pic again. I will try to post a photo of the 20 foot roof later.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2012 - 12:42pm PT
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Here is the pic I was looking for same formation with at least three roof cracks. One with the wide going through it.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Heading to the Tetons next week and the Wind Rivers in August.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2012 - 01:24pm PT
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Jim are you doing a llama trip again?
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Scole
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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What's Paul Horton up to these days?
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Scole
Trad climber
San Diego
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
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Lankin Dome looks very cool. I have yet to really check that area out, but have heard a lot of good things.
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Crump
Social climber
Lakewood, CO
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As someone who has always looked North to Wyoming, I always felt that Wyoming rock looked best when it had a bit of Texas on it... We love Wyoming a lot...
https://vimeo.com/23876978
I think Austin will look forward to the big WY visit to Austin... Just talking smack and welcoming you to town for some fun!!
http://www.cowboyaltitude.com/2012/5/11/3014938/wyoming-vs-texas-on-the-longhorn-network
While you are in town, we hope you climb some, drink some margs, and let us thank you for taking care of Wyoming for us, even if we score 50+ on you, we still love Wyoming...
The Eyes of Texas like looking at Wyomng and visiting from time to time!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mike, doing the Llama trip- meet 8/6 at Big Sandy and going to Deep Lake.
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mission
Social climber
boulder,co
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Jib,
Karla and I are all in! How much beer can we bring?
Mission
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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One keg per Llama. Did a newer route in the Black (Cloaks and Daggers) with Schimmel today, his first multi-pitch since the accident. It's rated 10+ but more like 10. Has one awesome five star pitch.
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Scole
Trad climber
San Diego
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2012 - 02:56am PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
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Spent a week climbing and hiking in Wyo. with a great motivated crew. I hiked out early to deal with a flat I had gotten twenty miles before Big Sandy on the way in. Ended up making it out to the highway on the doughnut and figured driving on the highway would be easy so I made it to a bivy in the Big Horns at about 3am. Met Crusher at the Haystack Lounge and we had them over for dinner that evening.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2012 - 09:29pm PT
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A few more that turned out well from the Winds trip
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Aug 20, 2012 - 09:31pm PT
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cool pics Mike!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
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A couple of shots from the last couple of weeks.
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Nohea
Trad climber
Living Outside the Statist Quo
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Cowbell, I need more cowbell!! Err I mean Wyoming, give me more Wyoming!
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little Z
Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
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bump, my hands still hurt from Vedauwoo
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
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Jack and I went over to 5 Springs for New Years Eve after camping for three nights in East Rosebud. We also drove into the Clark's Fork from Clark but the road got too rough before we got too far, but there looks to be some sweet limestone at the start of the canyon.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Lifted from Facebook;
3RD ANNUAL TOWER CLIMBING COMPETITION
Saturday Jan 12, 8:00 am MST
Campbell County Recreation Center
250 Shoshone Avenue, Gillette, Wyoming 82718
View Map · Get Directions
Don't let the word "competition" scare you. This event can be more accurately described as a FAMILY FUN EVENT! Never climbed before? This event is for YOU! Just capped off the outdoor climbing season and on-sighted your toughest route to date? This event is for you, too!
Climbers of ALL abilities will have a chance to win prizes from numerous local and regional sponsors. You won't walk away empty handed.
Four different ability levels:
Beginner: Up to 5.8
Intermediate: 5.9 - 5.11
Advanced: 5.11 and above
OPEN: 5.11 and above.. WITH LEAD ROUTES WORTH DOUBLE POINTS!
Registration Fee: $20
Pizza and beverages will be provided, and each contestant will receive a T-Shirt
Grand Prize: A day with Devils Tower climbing legend and professional climbing guide Frank Sanders
For more information, contact John Gunnels at (307)660-8172
Hope to see you there!"
Mike M, you should bring the family!!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 12:19am PT
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Shamelessly lifted from John Gunnels facebook page taken by his nice I believe. Very cool pic.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
honeoye falls,ny.greeneck alleghenys
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Jan 29, 2013 - 09:12am PT
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[photo[photo[photoid=287032]id=287031]id=287030] Anybody ever climb in the Bighorns,we only bouldered.But man ,there is some great looking stuff along the way up cloud peak.Great fishing too.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 29, 2013 - 10:41pm PT
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I scrambled to the top of Cloud peak once. We had horse packed climbing gear in but didnt use! I would go back though, with Llamas rather than horses though.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
honeoye falls,ny.greeneck alleghenys
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Jan 29, 2013 - 11:28pm PT
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i think i may be going back myself,this spring.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 11:37pm PT
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I always considered the eastern part of the Big Horns part of the Black Hills.
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WyoRockMan
Trad climber
Flank of the Bighorns
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Jan 30, 2013 - 12:02am PT
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I always considered the eastern part of the Big Horns part of the Black Hills.
Funny! We always considered the Black Hills part of the Big Horns (or at least Wyoming.)
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2013 - 11:30pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2013 - 12:28am PT
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WRM maybe someday WY will let us in.
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DPerret
Trad climber
Bay Area, California
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Ten days 'till I move back!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
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Little adventure climbing anyone?
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Bighorns
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Mike,
Is that, could it be, is it..... Bighorn Peak, east side?
Jason
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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This one is going to take a lot more work!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
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wyorockman, big horns but not big horn peak. Been in chill lake cirque on the east side of big horn peak, but this rock looks much better for free climbing and about two thirds the walk.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
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Summited Medicine Bow peak in the Snowy Range with Jack via 4 pitches of progressively steeper snow and one pitch of rock to bypass the cornice.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 13, 2013 - 01:17pm PT
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Good on ya mike! Jack is a very lucky young man.
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Jul 13, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
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that is all such good stuff!!!!!
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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Aug 11, 2013 - 11:16am PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2013 - 05:30pm PT
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WRM looks great, hope you guys had a great trip. Just got back from 4 days in wilderness basin and 4 days in tensleep. No climbing in the high peaks but did a lot of recon. Caught a lot of fish though including many goldens. Try to post some pics later, but currently have some computer problems.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Aug 11, 2013 - 06:40pm PT
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Way to go Jack and Mike!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2013 - 09:44pm PT
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Spent 4 days in the Big Horns and 4 days in Tensleep to escape the motorcycles this year. No climbing in the horns but checked out a lot of stuff. We did 3rd class some really cool low angle rock right next to this impressive cascade for about a half mile. Tied in on rock for the first time in Tensleep. I was fairly impressed and had a good time. Don't usually travel to sport climb but Tensleep was really fun and a good hang with great free camping.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 19, 2013 - 09:56pm PT
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MikeM, you up for a tower climb in the next couple days ?
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Sriracha Dan
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Aug 19, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
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Jack doing a first decent in the Big Horns.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 20, 2013 - 12:28am PT
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Deto, Mike you in?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2013 - 12:31am PT
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Really busy at work and have to work the next 11 days, but might be able to drive over for an evening. Sent you a message with my number.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 20, 2013 - 01:05am PT
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Cool, looks like mike and I might get some interesting things going. Anyone else?Tuesday, Wednesday thursday? I'll b there soloing tomorrow, but will be by Frank's later to troll for partners.
jaybro513@me dot calm.
I want to do an ascent signifigant to my own history... difficulty irrelevant, but not Durrance
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2013 - 09:20pm PT
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climbed a few pitchrs with jack at the tower today. He got up his fitst 5.9 with a couple of falls, but given the sustained natute we were both pretty proud.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Wyoming has a ton of climbing, it's the climbing season that's the problem.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
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Tis the season although I just heard there is softball size hail over by the tower and heading this way shortly. We are just getting our roof replaced from a storm that came through a couple of months ago and they haven't quite finished and have some tarps over the last bit. Kind of hoping this one fizzles out.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Had some fun in Tajikistan Mike...now Angela are heading to China. Get your butt down here next spring for our date in the BC.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
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Definitely want to but time and money were a little short this year. Hope you guys have a great time over east and be careful. Is it dangerous politically speaking over there? Can't be much worse than the biker bar Jack and I stopped at in the 307(WYO) to get a burger I suppose.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Safe as houses....as the Brits might say.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2013 - 09:50pm PT
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There is a standing offer for you guys to come up here as well. Some guys have been putting up some 800ft routes in the Big Horns and I have my eyes on a cirque that looks to have 5-8 really nice routes that are 800-1000ft and only two hours from Spearfish.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2013 - 10:16pm PT
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Got in a couple of climbs on the west face today in some great weather.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 22, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
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Tetons, Winds, Sinks, Ten Sleep, Devils Tower, Fremont Canyon, Vedauwoo.....no need to go to Wild Iris.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 22, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
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All the years ive climbed in Wyo, I've never bothered to go to wild Iris.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
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Dome Rock, White Rock, Sweetwater, Reese, Absarokas, Beartooths, Sinks, Cody, Big Horns...
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2013 - 12:26am PT
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It was great to get over to the tower today with temps on the south face probably in the 60's. Hard to believe there was 4 feet of snow just a couple of weeks ago. Also it was very cool to see the Big Horns off in the distance while driving over the Bearlodge Mountains on the way back to Spearfish.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
honeoye falls,ny.greeneck alleghenys
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Oct 27, 2013 - 07:20am PT
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Love them BigHorns!
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Oct 28, 2013 - 10:20am PT
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Jaybro,
you have said,I want to do an ascent signifigant to my own history... difficulty irrelevant, but not Durrance .
"... significant to my own history...", now this phase begs the question, but I will try an interpretation:
History has it that you were never very good at Tower thin cracks even though you are the man of Lucille. Just could it be that slowness at placing RP's, or what Californicators call Rotten Protection? But there is one caveat: Your middle name will never be spelled as Jaybro Hong Anderson, so perhaps the history time life line cannot be seriously modified by efforts at the Tower? You elude, "difficulty irrelevant.". And yes your own history supports my assessment of your Tower short comings that was gained when you top roped Direct SouthEast and proclaimed, I wish I would have saved that for a lead", honoring a now dead verbiage of previewing not allowed.
Now history has it that at some later time Jaybro did strap on Direct SouthEast only to hang and dangle. A similar fate caused Hot Henry to lower off. Note, I used a euphemism with Henry's action of "failure", but either way these two cats did't,t have the skill-set of quick RP placing.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 28, 2013 - 10:33am PT
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Hardly, Dingus. As you will recall, I didn't take RP's on that one. Hence your comment at the time, ""how'd your friends work in that one?"
I gots the chips with RP's as has been demenostrated innumerable times in the past. Crack ago go, tips et al....
What I was fishing for was someone to go up the Danse with me for my 100th Ascent!
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Oct 28, 2013 - 12:14pm PT
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East Fork Valley-Wind Rivers
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 23, 2013 - 10:41pm PT
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That, btw, Is Wolf City!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2013 - 02:01am PT
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 24, 2013 - 09:16am PT
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Bah humbug.....mosquitos, grapple, lightening, hiking, hostile cowboys, Cheney.....actually, i love the place. Hell, i got married there twice....more than in any other State.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 24, 2013 - 10:30am PT
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I thought, that was the approximate location of that shot!
Wow Jim, that's twice as many times-/ Hemingway got married, in Wyoming.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2013 - 11:32pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2013 - 11:38pm PT
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Hardest aid climb in the world done prior to 1900. Talk about taking a huge rack. It looks like it would be 300 feet of sweet hands. That guy knew what to do with his wood.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2013 - 01:20am PT
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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Dec 16, 2013 - 04:54pm PT
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Sweet pic of the Tower Mike!!
South Fork of the Shoshone, Broken Hearts approach:
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Jan 12, 2014 - 07:53pm PT
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From Guernsey State Park in October
Pics from Cow Feat Pete
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Gafoto
Ice climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jan 12, 2014 - 09:54pm PT
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Hardly the first photos of these places to be uploaded but here's a shot off the Grand and off the top of Pingora.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2014 - 12:20am PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2014 - 12:27am PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 13, 2014 - 12:30am PT
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One of these days I'll get there Dingus, you've never steered me wrong on these places
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2014 - 12:48am PT
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Jan 15, 2014 - 07:23am PT
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Mike M,
come on you sloth; you can do more than simply upload a photo and think we will know what the shot is of. The material is not porn to all of us. I am sure this material is as stimulating as porno to you but how about writing a sentence or two about these places and where they are if WY?
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Jan 15, 2014 - 07:54am PT
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Jaybro,
Guernsey by temp records is the warmest winter climbing place in WY but this year temps & Conditions to go there have been falling short!
need sunny with temp max >= 40 & no wind
or
sunny temp >= 45 breezy Ok
or
sunny temp >= 50 windy ok
and not
mostly sunny temp < 50.
Yes, Sunny days make this place work!
But perhaps I could belay with the Milwaukee Cordless heated coat? Problem is that the rest of the folks don't have one.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2014 - 09:23am PT
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Oh yes sorry dingus, but I have been spending many hours at night going through old photos as we had to replace our water heater and I had a bunch of paper photos stored above. I have been taking pictures of them with my phone and ousting them on here as a way to preserve them. I then has my computer tell me I was out of space so I have been deleting the bad ones so to get it working again. Deleted about 3500 and many videos so far which comes to about 10 gigs.
The photo above is from a couple of years ago on an attempt to ski the big chute on Big Horn peak. I have been in thereabout 8-10 times mostly trying to climb and have gotten a couple of routes done that were snow, rock and ice. Mostly in May and June. The place holds water ice very late in the year.
The picture of pingora a couple of shots up is after Butch Knight and I had a big epic and were lost in a snow storm most of the night wandering around in the winds in September.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2014 - 09:24am PT
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The picture on me with the peace sign is in the Tetons
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2014 - 09:47am PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2014 - 10:12pm PT
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It doesn't look like it but this one is every bit of 160 ft
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Jan 19, 2014 - 09:57pm PT
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Laird gets his first 12 this year at Guernsey State Park. the new route "D cup Lover" was done on a second try today but Scarpelli and I moved after the photos during the first try.
It appears my camera setting got bumped into portrait mode; hense the softer texture and slight lack of sharpness.
Steve Babits says its 12b.
Temps got to 57 F by the local weather station. Add 20F near the rock and yes we were in T shirts.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2014 - 10:54pm PT
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Dingus that looks good. I will have to stop in and take a look sometime.
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luckylep
Trad climber
colorado
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Jan 21, 2014 - 12:06am PT
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Ha! The Guernsey route was called "D-Cup Love". Looks like Dingus is using his well-honed editorial privileges ...
On Sunday, Dingus also sent his route and I'm pretty sure he called it "Sausage Lover". Hopefully it's a hot lady that asks for a catch on this one.
-Lucky Laird
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Jan 22, 2014 - 07:56am PT
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luckylep,
wend U get the photo of her so silly? Besides, tits not the kind of sausage Christina likes.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Feb 18, 2014 - 12:57pm PT
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A visit to Converse County Park
This almost unknown rugged terrain is just 6 miles south of Glenrock WY. For the all paved access to the park take Glenrock exit of I-25 and at about 1.5 east of Glenrock on highway 20/87 turn south on County Rd 90, Box Elder Rd and drive about 6 miles south. After a steep climb you will see a pullout on the left at the crest of the rd. ATV'ing,Hiking, fishing, kayaking, ice climbing, rock climbing, base jumping and canyoneering await.
Steve Bechtel told me he heard deceased climber Pat Parmenter of Casper looked about a little in this canyon.
ST member Mike M will be dying to get his fangs into the falls ice along side the stream.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2014 - 11:55am PT
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Tell me more.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Feb 20, 2014 - 08:53pm PT
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Mike,
There is a 63 square mi watershed above the now frozen stream flow gauge and most of the contributing acreage is north facing and above 7000' so there would not be much melt yet and likely no flow. Conditions in Box Elder cyn would be little sunshine and residual snow for some time in those zones of no sunlight. This setup allows for a lot of cold air to flow down the stream bottom.
The road to the park is open year round and plowed as there are many ranches and retreat home further up the road. The big falls which is very difficult to view from anywhere near the road is your best cold choice. But getting down to it is no easy task when the canyon sidewalls are covered with snow and the angle of talus is steep enough for one to easily slip for some distance when the slope is dry. But do it as an ice climbing descent?
A second option to get to the falls this time of year would be starting from the mouth of that canyon down stream on the farmland. That entrance land is private.
A third option is to walk down the frozen stream bed from the upper bridge to the falls top and rap on in. I would imagine this way to pretty neat and it offers a pleasant gradient that would be easier on the knees.
All 3 ways require a tooled up hike with less fang work going upstream.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2014 - 06:05pm PT
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jack finishing el cracko diablo.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2014 - 10:06pm PT
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Saw the eastern Wyoming big four today. A bald eagle, a deer, a prairie dog, and a squirrel. Truly inspiring.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2014 - 12:42am PT
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Made it to cody, the big horns, and the tower this week and made some new friends from South Africa that have been ice climbing throughout the west.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2014 - 11:39am PT
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Jack and I got in a couple of routes done in Tounge River Canyon before the rain came in hard.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2014 - 11:55am PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2014 - 06:11pm PT
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Wyoming tubing.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Aug 11, 2014 - 06:15pm PT
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Tongue River looks stellar.
We meant to stop by driving back from the Batholith Bouldering Bash but were pressed for time. Ended up with a $500 speeding ticket outside Buffalo as a result.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 11, 2014 - 06:18pm PT
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$500? Were you doin' over a ton? Mine a couple of years ago was only $60 or
$80 for doing 80+ in a 65. Cheap by Cali standards.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Aug 11, 2014 - 06:23pm PT
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Ever driven between Buffalo and Casper?
Not much going on, full on straightaway.
We were pushing 120mph.
The officer was actually pretty cool about it, laughing about how notorious that hwy is for speeders.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2014 - 07:14pm PT
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Watchtower in the rain/sun.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2014 - 07:45pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2014 - 07:27am PT
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Jack and I on top of Wolfs Head.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Aug 12, 2014 - 12:23pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2014 - 11:55am PT
What are those peaks in the background Mike?
I can't tell if it's solid rock or chossy scree.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2014 - 02:05pm PT
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All good stuff in the Deep Lake area. Haystack, Steeple, and East Temple.Here is a closer look at Haystack and Steeple with East Temple and East Temple Spire beyond that.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Aug 12, 2014 - 02:12pm PT
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Ah okay, good stuff, looks menacing and unrecognizable from that angle.
Need to get back there soon.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Aug 12, 2014 - 02:14pm PT
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Those traverses on Wolfshead are awesome.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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Aug 15, 2014 - 06:28am PT
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Cool light on Wolf's Head.
Cool chimney on Steeple.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2014 - 08:22pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2014 - 09:11am PT
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Heard they got two feet of snow in the Big Horns last night.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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Aug 25, 2014 - 10:54am PT
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Two very small feet! Just a dusting from what I can see from here and what the webcams showed.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2014 - 11:22am PT
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Damn, I was hoping to get my last two months of skiing in to complete my once a month for a year.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 25, 2014 - 04:08pm PT
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Oh there's always glaciers...
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2014 - 07:34pm PT
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Climbing at the Cliffs Beyond Difficulty
There is an abandoned town site in SE WY called Difficulty. It was at a place where the wagon team had to work hard to get the load up the canyon to Shirley Basin. The site is about 15 mile NW of Medicine Bow, WY. These cliffs are just beyond the head of Difficulty Creek.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2014 - 12:21pm PT
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A team from Lander at the cozy hanging belay on Soler.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Sep 24, 2014 - 01:58pm PT
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hey there say, just a bump, to help our FIRST PAGE,
HOWEVER, awww, yes, i DO love the post that i am bumping, too...
you are of value, ...
just that i can't always visit everything and post...
but today, is REALLY NEEDED FOR HELP, TO US ALL...
WILL TRY to bump some more...
this 'message will repeat' for a bit, in the bumps...
:)
hope i am helping...
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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Sep 25, 2014 - 07:35am PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 25, 2014 - 08:19am PT
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Nice photo, Wyo!
Phonolite porphyry style bump
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2014 - 07:49am PT
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Sundance Mt.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 26, 2014 - 08:26am PT
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Yo.....cowboy climbers! Seasons about over up there, saddle up and come on down south before the roads close.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 30, 2014 - 06:03am PT
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But before you leave note this!
Style bump
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feralfae
Boulder climber
in the midst of a metaphysical mystery
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Sep 30, 2014 - 03:53pm PT
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Hey, does that org. have a web site?
feralfae
ps. Thank you everyone for the wonderful photos of places I have loved or would love to be. I hope to be home for Thanksgiving in the Winds. :)
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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Oct 14, 2014 - 02:41pm PT
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My morning commute drives me crazy.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
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More Routes at Cliffs Beyond Difficulty
We managed to put up 16 more 80 ft sport routes at the Cliffs Beyond Difficulty in Sept but the area is now snow bound/cold. We were hoping JayBro could climb WY Meth Cooks Choice with Jammer photographing him on what would be the second ascent.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2014 - 01:16pm PT
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Nice Dingus. A couple of weeks ago my brother and I took jack up assembly line. What a great route. Jack and I started and summitted on pattent pending. Definitely the most sustained route he has summitted on. We had not been climbing as much the last 6 months as I had a shoulder injury, but this route got him excited to climb again as he got to show his uncle some of the things he has learned. He did get a little spanked on the fingers at the beginning, but raced right up the hands. He feels it is sandbagged and Walt Bailey at 5.9 is easier despite the 5.9- given Assembly Line. Hope all is well. Mikecan you believe it has been 39 years since you put that up. Must have been a little harder when you had to do it with few or no cams. That thing is long and sustained.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
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Hey Mike M,
that is good photo of Assembly Line. Did Jack lead it?
The crack before the FA was totally full of moss which was soon all gone.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2014 - 03:29pm PT
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No but getting close to being ready for some of those rigs. How do you get the moss out of the crack?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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It's the season of (Wyoming 22) license plates all over Red Rocks and Indian Creek. Almost never see Wyoming plates with another number. Are there any Wyoming climbers who don't live in Jackson Hole?
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
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I just fitted mid sized hexes around and in it while other parties took the moss to task. For a brief time the crack had patches of moss free zones but some like protection more often than I chose.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
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Donni,
a Jackson climber once told me, "We[of Jackson]do it all". I replied, Yes, you do and as a matter of fact one Jacksonnian pinned his boat on the Bridge's Run on the Poudre and then sold his boat and quit kayaking, another grabbed a carabiner attached to gear while taking a leader fall and broke his finger and a third one triggered an avalanche above some skiers while he took to traversing above the lower party but only one person was killed. After saying this I said, 'Yes you do, I know'.
The rest of us WY people are doing FA's in WY that we have little time to mention as opposed to those WY22's having time to do climbs other people talk about and few FA's.
Quality exists in Wyoming, but few find it.
Plus I guess you are never in Lander in the winter to find out how many WY22 are there in the winter? They don't need no stinkin' cracks.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Yeah....most 22 Wyoming plates are on "daddy bought" vans. They grew up in the East, went to Middlebury or Colorado College while majoring in environmental studies and are soaking up some sun while waiting for the ski season.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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3 county has a handful of climbers.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Hmmmm....i suppose if you tell me where those climbs are you'll have to shoot me....and i know you're all packing.
No daddy bought vans in 3 county....folks there would settle for knowing who their father is.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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I'm sure they have all been climbed before. There was a rusty old pin in the base of the first one for a ground anchor or some such nuttyness. The wide one was pretty clean for a "wild crack". It would be awfully presumptuous to claim a FA. Great dolomite crack climbing, somewhat of a rarity. They aren't too far off a trail (no more than a 45 minute bushwhack) but certainly not in any guidebook. The copious ivy keeps the crowds away, that and it's location in north central Wyoming.
...folks there would settle for knowing who their father is. Ha! I'm an import, but you are a bit off the mark. You are thinking 17. 3 is pretty civilized.
On second thought you are probably not to far off.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I love the fact that Wyoming has the lowest population density in the lower 48 and that unleashed dogs at crags are considered varmits and treated as such.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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Dogs at the crags? People do that?
Sh#t, we don't even see other people at the crags. On the rare occasion we do, we just yell "Git off our rock!"
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Well....badgers and wolverines kind of look like dogs.
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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so.. yawl got any IT jobs out that way?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2014 - 06:04pm PT
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Passed this guy on the way down the other day and he had done the first pitch of El Cracko with one piece
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thebravecowboy
climber
walking, resin-stained, towards the goal
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Rockman, that looks outstanding! I am just a bit south of Cheyenne and looking for new adventures....hook it up on the access details?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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As we all know, county 22, is not part of Wyoming...,
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clockclimb
Trad climber
Orem, Utah
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Jack I'm jealous. I did Assembly Line years ago. It still stands out in my mind as a great line. Hope to get back there sometime.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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"county 22"?
Is that near Area 51?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Pretty much, but more drugstore cowboy-like...
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2014 - 07:43pm PT
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Stake Ladder
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2014 - 07:45pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2014 - 08:08pm PT
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not 22 plates
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Now that's a real Wyo county!!
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Bad Fiducci
climber
Wilson, WY
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Nov 10, 2014 - 06:05am PT
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Last day on Baxter's... the view south.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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Nov 10, 2014 - 07:39am PT
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C'mon Jaybro, you know those CCCS'ers really DO f*#k everything up, everywhere you go! Brock Finn's song is spot on.
He wouldn't sing it if it wasn't true.
Driving over the horns yesterday, old man winter on my back. Meadowlark Lake is starting to get firm. Waterfalls will be freezing up good this week. Yeee Hawwww!
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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Nov 16, 2014 - 06:10am PT
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I'd be shocked if this beauty has seen more than a handful of ascents.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 16, 2014 - 09:46am PT
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Ya know, they actually love that song in Gillette! It gets standing ovations, etc
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 16, 2014 - 12:52pm PT
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Sorry cowboys, possession being 90 percent of the law, Vedauwoo has now been officially declared a Colorado climbing area.
Not to worry, your neighbors in Utah suffered the same indignity regarding Indian Creek a few years ago.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 16, 2014 - 01:09pm PT
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Them's fightin' words, Donini you Greenie!
Vedauwoo & Metro Moab will never fall to the oppression of a state so lame it's semiofficial state song was written and preformed by John Denver!
Ima sick Bob on yer ass!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 16, 2014 - 01:12pm PT
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And we're taking Estes and the Black!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 16, 2014 - 01:12pm PT
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Ouch! You know my Achilles heel.....John Denver.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 16, 2014 - 01:32pm PT
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Too funny!
Sorry, that was, below the belt:)
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2014 - 03:39pm PT
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They can have us too Jaybro. Low people, low taxes, high wages what's not to like. Plus perfect climbing conditions all year long.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2015 - 08:39pm PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 25, 2015 - 09:15pm PT
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The tower abides
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2015 - 09:41pm PT
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it was a beautiful day. Cloudy and low 40's when we got there, but it cleared off after a couple of hours but the sun had already gone around the corner by then. Super windy on top with quite a lot of snow. Supposed to be mid 60 tomorrow and Tuesday. It is 52 almost at 11pm probably warmer than it was all day.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jan 25, 2015 - 10:32pm PT
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Dam it's hard to get away from Wyoming! Le bateau enormous "Janice of Wyoming" slamming pass us in a race here in New Zealand last week.
We actually had right-of-way but who in their right mind would argue. Well, Donini might but then again I did said who in their right mind.
That is what they call a Super Yacht pardner.......
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 26, 2015 - 09:18am PT
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Steamboat on a sailboat!!
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
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Jan 28, 2015 - 05:36am PT
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A Trip to Converse County Park
Ps. A note for Able Gable and other sore asses: We left out the photos of the outstanding walls and will update when some bolts are in those rocks!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 28, 2015 - 08:45am PT
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No Chuck Taylor's?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2015 - 06:15pm PT
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Some shots from today and yesterday.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2015 - 08:37am PT
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Anyone want to climb the tower on Saturday? Supposed to be in the upper 50's.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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I'm bringing the missus flowers today, in hopes of a tower trip this weekend.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
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Feb 18, 2015 - 05:19am PT
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This section of the canyon and below here has not yet been kayaked.
In 1955 the stream reached almost 3000 cfs. It has only some 65 sq. miles of drainage above the gauging station and this stream has the highest typical stream flow for the drainage area in the Laramie Range. The west flank of the Laramie Range gets far more moisture than Reese Mt. or Vedauwoo which is in the southern end of the Laramie Range.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2015 - 02:22pm PT
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George in front of Ambush in the East Fork Valley of the Winds.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2015 - 09:40pm PT
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Joy after Pain
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2015 - 07:56pm PT
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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Mar 13, 2015 - 07:57pm PT
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Sh#t, More to do.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 13, 2015 - 08:25pm PT
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Only the shadow knows, and I want to know too...
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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Mar 13, 2015 - 10:45pm PT
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Come on up to 3 County Jay. I'll put you on some goodness.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 14, 2015 - 05:40am PT
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I ought to be able to do that Wyo Rock county three is easily within my summer range, will keep you posted, thanks!
Meanwhile news from the county seventeen Buddha;
Although he only he sees his shadow on sunny afternoons;
still recently the signs have been more portentous
Recently there was enough sun, snow melting, and bulb sprouting, that he was able to initiate the seasonal, telekinetic, ceremonial, opening of the Suburban door! Ushering in the climbing season! Only a few more blizzards to come.
Ritual is what you make of it!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2015 - 06:58pm PT
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Pillar of Pain on Saturday. Which is the 6th pitch of High on Boulder.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2015 - 09:43pm PT
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fun stuff
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2015 - 07:08pm PT
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whitemeat
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Mar 29, 2015 - 06:49pm PT
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why is wyoming so windy?
Because montana blows and colorado sucks!!!!!!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2015 - 07:03pm PT
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Keeps the rif raf away.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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Apr 12, 2015 - 12:13pm PT
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In all the hub-bub of getting ready to move and moving, my days of climbing have been very limited. I got a call from my regular pard Friday night to skip all my responsibilities and go get a Tower day in. "It'll be good for ya!" he said.
The drive from Sheridan to the Tower is just under 3 hours so we had a lot of time to contemplate what to do once we got there. Soler, Walt, Hollywood moved up the short list, the breeze should offset the direct sun and make for an enjoyable spring day. There were only two cars in the lot at 930am. Nice!
As we walked up the trail, Tom mentioned, "Well this is a first, not a single party in the Bowling Alley!" "Yeah usually it is crawling with people.", I replied. We continued up the talus in a rare moment of silence.
We got to the bottom of the alley and dropped our packs and pulled out our gear to head over across the ledges to Soler, et al. Tom casually asked, "You ever get the Durrance in?" Here's the thing, I first climbed the Tower 22 years ago via Soler and have gone to the summit many times since then, but I had never done the Durrance! All the people I've gone with either have done the Durrance many times or detest it, so I've never had the opportunity to do it with a "willing" partner. A 65 degree sunny day with a slight breeze AND zero people, it was a sign.
Yesterday, I finally ticked that classic climb off the list. We did the direct start and Bailey finish, pitched it all out. The pace was leisurely at best, eating sandwiches and sunning ourselves on the glorious column tops, telling stories and laughing. Falcons doing falcon things while pigeons hid. No parties above, none below, no rush, no careless rock bombs from above.
A storm trooper pilot was our only company at the top.
After another snack and lounge session we headed down. Smooth pulls on all the raps put us back down safely. A great climb everyone should do at least once. I thoroughly enjoyed it, even if it took a bit to get around to it.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2015 - 01:49pm PT
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Durrance is awesome.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 17, 2015 - 01:45pm PT
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Wyo ( county17) climbers in Moab on a rainy day - today.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2015 - 06:18pm PT
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Jack and I climbed a small 10,000+ foot peak just off powder river pass where we had excellent views of Big Horn Peak and the top of one of its many cirques. We camped Friday and Saturday night and it never got above 30 before we left at about 11am this morning. As always scoping out some possible objectives.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
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News from Boxelder Creek.
Some 4 ft of wet snow landed in the Laramie Peak Regions yielding about 6" of water a rancher reported.
I earlier reported this stream had got to almost 3000 cfs. Correction: In 1965 it was at 4530 cfs. There is an old beer can jammed high in the boulder field here.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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You gonna Scull, that?
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
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Yeah Jay,
I hope to do it going upstream!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 01:40pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 01:53pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 01:54pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2015 - 10:59am PT
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Missing home a little bit bump. Even though it was never home it felt like home.
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WyoRockMan
climber
South Fork of the Shoshone
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Jul 29, 2015 - 10:48am PT
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Point forecast for the next few days in the Cloud Peak area.
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hellroaring
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Jul 29, 2015 - 11:30am PT
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Mikem or anyone else who might know regarding the above posted bridge photo. Is that the bridge on Chief Joseph Hwy thru Sunlight Basin?? If it is I have wondered: any climbing routes down in that gorge? Certainly looks like there would be, thanks...
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WyoRockMan
climber
South Fork of the Shoshone
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Hellroaring- Yes that is the bridge in Sunlight. Yes there is climbing. Scary wild climbing.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2015 - 08:35am PT
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Missing Wyoming a bit.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 19, 2015 - 07:36pm PT
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Its right here!
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Aug 20, 2015 - 03:51am PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 20, 2015 - 04:20am PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2015 - 10:37pm PT
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blatently stolen off the net but just because Wyoming is kick ass.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 21, 2015 - 12:03am PT
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WyoRockMan
climber
South Fork of the Shoshone
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Aug 21, 2015 - 12:04am PT
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The east face of the Innominate is so scary looking. 1,200', dead vert (maybe slightly overhung?).
I second this guy's opinion:
The Becky Route:
Here ya go Jaybro:
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2015 - 12:10am PT
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What is the peak down and to the right?
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WyoRockMan
climber
South Fork of the Shoshone
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Aug 21, 2015 - 12:30am PT
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The Gargoyle is between the Innominate and Woolsey
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WyoRockMan
climber
South Fork of the Shoshone
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Sep 19, 2015 - 07:44pm PT
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I love my new home.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 19, 2015 - 11:43pm PT
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Go for the Innominate....I've seen some Becky A3 go at 5.9.
Then again, it could be hard....never know till you try.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 19, 2015 - 11:54pm PT
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I've seen some Becky A3 go at 5.9.
HaHaHaHa! You mean after you knock out the wooden blocks? ;-)
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WyoRockMan
climber
South Fork of the Shoshone
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Sep 20, 2015 - 12:46am PT
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RE:The Innominate.
I'm sure the climbing on the Becky route would be moderate, it's just hard to believe out of all the potential lines in here that he chose that one. Climb a dark nasty looking chimney with an ice approach or pick a sunny aspect on one of the other scores of lines. There's a reason it's an obscurity.
The east face of the Innominate is going to require a Dave Allfrey type or some other aid magician.
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WyoRockMan
climber
South Fork of the Shoshone
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Oct 19, 2015 - 01:57pm PT
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I swear the Wyoming backcountry is like Christmas every time.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 19, 2015 - 02:10pm PT
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Wyoming's great but, hey, it's Oct. 19th.....all of the Wyo. 22 plates are in Indian Creek and everyone knows that all of the climbers in Wyo. live in Teton County.
Edit: at least the ones with trust funds
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WyoRockMan
climber
South Fork of the Shoshone
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Oct 19, 2015 - 02:31pm PT
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It was 70F this weekend when the pic was taken. But point taken on the "sub-par" weather. Generally.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 19, 2015 - 05:31pm PT
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As we all know, county 22 is not part of Wyoming!
It's part of Idaho, Holywood or boulder or something..
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 19, 2015 - 05:37pm PT
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In IC people follow 22's around. Sometimes they leave behind shiny new cams that daddy bought.
Jaybro...Jackson isn't in Idaho, it's Boulder Norte.
Edit: and you also have...
New Paltz....Boulder Este
Eugene....Boulder Oeste
Austin....Boulder Sur
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 19, 2015 - 05:44pm PT
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That's what I said
You won't catch people from Baggs or Meteetse, dropping cams like that!
Actually I bootied a new red Camelot out of Binou's the other day, and there was an Acura with 22 plates in that parking lot......
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Oct 20, 2015 - 03:24pm PT
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Not all of us in 22 have trust funds or drop new shiny cams for you to find. Many moved here for the alpine climbing and winter in the Tetons and proximity to the Winds. And by the way Jim, many of those anchors which you bring the hordes of people to in Indian Creek were put in by some of us. Wilson may not be Wyoming but it's pretty damn close to it. Which when it's time to vote isn't always a good thing.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 20, 2015 - 03:32pm PT
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Norm, I'm tongue in cheek. I love both the Tetons and Boulder....he'll, I got married in Jackson Hole two times. That's twice as many times as any other venue.
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WyoRockMan
climber
South Fork of the Shoshone
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It took until November this year, but summer is finally over.
One more week and the tools come out!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2015 - 03:56pm PT
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Can't wait to get back. Happy thanksgiving.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2016 - 11:08pm PT
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Don't forget the marvelous Granite Mountains in central Wyoming. For years after my 50th birthday I would spend a week up there each summer soloing on these beauties.
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bazo qop
Boulder climber
Lexington ky
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Lankin Dome!
Sweet.....
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Feb 15, 2016 - 12:04pm PT
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I finally got on a true Wyoming ice classic this weekend. We have had an extended period of unseasonably warm weather and we were hoping that the deep canyon of the Clark's Fork would preserve enough ice to climb.
The climb is not visible from the road and is guarded by a long 3/4 mile approach. You lose close to 2,000 vertical feet of elevation from the road to the bottom of the canyon. The trail is faint (ha!).
An hour of downhilling gets you to a small section of ice to down climb to the river. So I had heard. The ice was gone, so we had a super sketchy mossy "scramble" to the river.
Once at the river a bit of navigation takes you downstream to the climb. We couldn't find a reasonable way to cross, so we spent a little over an hour collecting appropriate logs to span the river from the ice on either side. Serious DFU crossing.
Why all this bother? Because:
All that was left was to reverse the approach. A couple hours of 4X4 hiking and we were back to the truck.
This may have been my favorite ice climb to date.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Feb 20, 2016 - 10:40am PT
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I bailed, because I'm not hard.
Time for rock.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 20, 2016 - 11:29am PT
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HARD ENOUGH
Righteous !
Nice kickin'
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2016 - 06:06pm PT
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I don't remember that one at post creek
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Feb 20, 2016 - 06:23pm PT
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That's because it's not at Post Cr. Mike. Well north of there.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2016 - 09:16pm PT
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How much north?
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
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Feb 21, 2016 - 03:43am PT
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WyoRockMan,
You lose close to 2,000 vertical feet of elevation from the road to the bottom of the canyon. The trail is faint (ha!).
I have spend some time looking at these meta granites [shattered] for rock climbing.
2000 ft ? Do you mean 1400 ft. There is no place of any practicalness for a descent where the road is 2000' above the creek since you can drive up the 2-track which goes along the Clark to Rapid Creek.
Were you on the fishing trail/descent that is just east of Dead Indian Creek?
I have had the same crossing troubles with the Clark's Fork of the Yellowstone in February. Some -30F cold canyon bottom air in January might make the crossings easy but the hike a little cold.
You can count on these wall to wall water creeks to be frozen good enough for hiking up when the temps have been -30F for a week but not just shade and 20F is enough to make crossings passable. There is too much winter water flow and falls in something of this size where temps are not polar all the time to keep surface ice intact everywhere.
Some creeks with lot of flow freeze from the bottom upward. Spearfish creek at Spearfish can get bottom ice.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Feb 21, 2016 - 07:03am PT
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Mr. McGee,
Having reviewed the map this AM, your estimate is closer than mine on the actual vertical gain (loss). I hadn't spent the time to properly parse the blended together topo lines on my course map prior to putting my fingers to the keyboard, using instead verbal estimates from a couple previous parties. I typically plan on 1,000' of elevation gain/hour of fully laden hiking in light bushwhack conditions, so it seemed to be a reasonable estimate.
We did not use any sort of established trail. The direct approach is likely much quicker than using any other route. Alternatives to the descent would entail miles of river "walking". The approach is less than 3/4 of a mile (plan distance) and minimizes the amount of river navigation. Much deadfall, pockets of deep snow and some poorly adhered mossy 4th class (+) were expected and encountered.
Crossing the river was one of the cruxes of the day, and an endeavor not to be taken likely.
My apologies for the minor embellishment.
Mike,
Approximately 28.1 miles (one can't be too careful with estimates around here). It isn't 5 Springs however. Further inquiries into the flow indicate Stan Price may have done them BITD. It is a worthy area as a reasonable alternative to the South Fork. I don't think it will be climbable again this season unfortunately. Next year we'll have Jack rope gun it for us.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2016 - 08:19am PT
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We started to go into some canyons to the north of five springs that looked legal on the map but once we got there they seemed as we were on private property so we bailed. They looked oh so good for ice potential but even better for Rick potential.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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I'm amazed, despite a rational explanation, of the micro-climate variability in such a small area. The south side of the canyon is still building ice despite daily temps in the bottom of the canyon approaching 50F deg for a couple of weeks on end.
The ice bridges to cross the Southfork of the Shoshone river sublimated, melted and collapsed this week requiring alternative measures to cross.
Sandals, garbage bags or other trickery is required.
I forgot my sandals and garbage bags so I resorted to the "Run Fast, Step High" method of crossing. I came across with dry feet, thanks Baturas and tight ankle cinches.
You can't escape the trolls, even here, a long way from anywhere.
The views are pretty damn sweet from up on high.
Upon our return to the valley floor, in a rush to get back to town for some clippy clippin on the amazing local granite, we both opted for the "Run Fast, Step High" river crossing. Much success [this time].
[Click to View YouTube Video]
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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you climbed HoB in late April? is that typical of the season?
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Climbed HoB at the end of Feb. It was still in late March though. You can usually get some ice in well into April though.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 19, 2016 - 05:48pm PT
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Lots of great rock but Winter follows hard on the heels of the mosquitoes.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Jul 27, 2016 - 02:09pm PT
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Here's a shot from Big Sandy Opening- sometime around 1983
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 27, 2016 - 08:40pm PT
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Tony dug his first day climbing in Wyo today!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Late afternoon Donkey serenade, Wolf City Wyomng
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SusanA
Sport climber
Bay Area
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I work at Theranos and will probably lose my job soon. I hope to make the best of it and do some climbing trips. Wyoming looks so amazing!
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Oct 12, 2016 - 06:34pm PT
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Wish I had a fraction of these guys' talent.
Seventy-Two Hours in the Winds: Alpine Mixed Climbing Adventure with Whit Magro (& Will Mayo)
https://vimeo.com/190623360
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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I tend to agree with this formation. WY is a pretty cool place to climb.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Many years ago Tom Frost bugged me to go to the Wind Rivers with him...
Looking back, i can't imagine anything that would make me too busy to go to the Winds with Tom, but at the time apparently i thought i had reason to not go.
and, Mike Hoover and Bev Johnson sent me a Christmas Card from Jackson, it was a photo of Bev, inverted midair, on the back Mike had scrawled, "come ski" i did not go, Wyoming just seemed too far for time available.
needless to say, i was supremely stupid, in both cases.
I recall, and submit, my father's counsel:
"No man on his death bed ever said: I wish i had spent more time at the office."
Just go, go climb, or take pictures, or whatever, but take your kids, your love, or meet your friends, and go.
eventually i did get there... and back again.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2017 - 09:58pm PT
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aint it good to come back home again.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 21, 2017 - 04:09am PT
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For you Devil's Tower afficianados, this puppy on the edge of the Patagonia desert is bigger than DT and a good counter seasonal option. When the cold winds blow across the Wyoming plains fly south and enjoy. Fair warning....there will be no tourists to ogle your efforts.
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7SacredPools
Trad climber
Ontario, Canada
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Feb 21, 2017 - 04:46am PT
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That's quite something Jim, does it have a name? Have you tried it out?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2017 - 09:14am PT
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Bet I was warmer at DT than patagonia Sunday Jim. Jack did a great job leading Walt Bailey which was his first time leading anything that would go to the summit. I think he put in as few ofpieces as I ever have.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 21, 2017 - 11:24am PT
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Nice going Mike and Jack!
Sacred Pools....it's name is Cerro Colorado and, yes, I have tried it out, initially with Jay Smith, Jim Turner and Thom Englebach. There are a number of multi and single pitch routes up to 5.12. We were among the first to climb there.
People are beginning to come there from Brazil, Chile and Argentina
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2017 - 11:50am PT
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Jim are you in South America right now? I see Cory a fair bit and have ran into Tom a couple of times. I would like to do some spring skiing down on Red Mountain Pass and check out some crags in the area this year. We drove to the top of Ophir Pass in my subby last year abd I wanted to check out the Ophir Wall, but I was to scared to drive it down the other side. Some jeepers we ran into said they had just cut the road out of the snowfield that day. What do you think of Gunnison there is a job open down there that may be of interest.
BTW that thing looks so cool I feel I have to see it. I would say that is one of the best examples of that kind of formation I have ever see in person or in pictures. Is it a 5th class summit?
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Feb 21, 2017 - 12:03pm PT
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
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The Potato Chip parking lot is empty. All roads are closed.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 27, 2017 - 04:51am PT
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Where's the most recent Wyoming thread?
It was
"Have you climbed in the Tetons" - or some such ?
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2743302/Have-you-climbed-in-the-Tetons
It was an awsome tome !
So many have toiled up that stuff as an introduction.
Some even love
Those long walks
slow grey sunrise hikes
to beat. The back-packers
I've mostly not been back there
As there is to much
-ah', where are we ?-
-the middle of No-Where, in Wyoming-
Then again I know what's there
So there is no better place
that you could pick to go
to get to climb something big.
Between the climbing and skiing
only California, Utah, Montana & Idahoe ? Canada?
Can hold a candle to the Cowboy State
Why oh why Wyoming !
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Mar 27, 2017 - 07:08am PT
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dang dingus! what is the best avenue for me to learn more about your rig?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 27, 2017 - 07:16am PT
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Hey brave Cowboy!
There is a tease of a thread here on the Ta o.
Then again I've read it and that master of the incredible confounds
Did you land a silent Partner?
Some one was offering ~ and Jeffo posted a "want"( WTB) on Mountain Reject.
Still haven't got around to Put a sock in it! ( wierd, that that thread went that way !)
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Mar 27, 2017 - 01:01pm PT
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 27, 2017 - 02:35pm PT
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Spring has sprung and I am awaiting the blossoming of Wyoming 22 plates in Indian Creek. Perhaps the heavy snow year will extend the ski season and grant a brief reprieve.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 27, 2017 - 05:47pm PT
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I saw two county 11's in Moab today......
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Mar 28, 2017 - 10:48am PT
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2 X 11 > 22
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 28, 2017 - 12:01pm PT
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Any county is > 22!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 28, 2017 - 12:02pm PT
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Btw, what, Is county 11?
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IntheFog
climber
Mostly the next place
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Mar 28, 2017 - 12:08pm PT
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11 = Park
1 Natrona Casper
2 Laramie Cheyenne
3 Sheridan Sheridan
4 Sweetwater Green River
5 Albany Laramie
6 Carbon Rawlins
7 Goshen Torrington
8 Platte Wheatland
9 Big Horn Basin
10 Fremont Lander
11 Park Cody
12 Lincoln Kemmerer
13 Converse Douglas
14 Niobrara Lusk
15 Hot Springs Thermopolis
16 Johnson Buffalo
17 Campbell Gillette
18 Crook Sundance
19 Uinta Evanston
20 Washakie Worland
21 Weston Newcastle
22 Teton Jackson
23 Sublette Pinedale
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 28, 2017 - 12:13pm PT
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Jaybro....I have a seasonal camp established at IC. Will be there for 11 days starting Thursday.
Rab Carrington will be with me and Mark Chapman arrives next Monday.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Mar 28, 2017 - 02:29pm PT
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i've had wyoming plates with county designators 4, 11, 17, 19 and 22 and can't think of ever having paid rent other than having spent a fair bit of per diem dough. rarely had a matching driver's license except when the tool pusher insisted. expired tags aren't an element of stealthy lifestylin'... oh, and where was that river i should have been down by?
edit: just remembered a vehicle i bought off a lot in rawlins, left the state some kind of legal ... 6!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 28, 2017 - 02:45pm PT
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The county license plate number was determined by county population.....1 for the most populous, 23 for the least. Teton County was number 22 in population out of 23. If designated by the current Wyoming population, Teton County's plates would sport the number 9.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 28, 2017 - 03:47pm PT
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Thx fog.
I'll look for you Jim!
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Sep 13, 2017 - 06:54pm PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 14, 2017 - 04:38am PT
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That, takes skills!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 14, 2017 - 04:50am PT
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Daphne. Tops out on Devils Tower,to a reception of 30+ magnificent Vultures, August 2017
Daphne and Chazbro, Wolf City Wyoming
Daphne y yo, on Deto as seen by Chazbro!
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Nov 19, 2017 - 09:53pm PT
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Nov 20, 2017 - 12:41pm PT
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I dig this thread. Nice posts yall.
Scott
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Dec 31, 2017 - 08:33am PT
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Pitch 5 options for Broken Hearts.
Right is "My Only Valentine", WI5
Left is "Carotid Artery", WI6, another Alex Lowe route. Much fatter conditions than the FA.
Slow Turning Pitch 3 (WI4)
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Feb 11, 2018 - 09:41am PT
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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May 17, 2019 - 10:41am PT
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BBBST
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D_Meschke
Mountain climber
Pinedale, WY
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May 18, 2019 - 11:13am PT
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23 here... Gotta look closely for the 3, tends to blend in when all you see is 22. Trust me, it gets pretty real here...
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D_Meschke
Mountain climber
Pinedale, WY
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May 18, 2019 - 11:20am PT
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D_Meschke
Mountain climber
Pinedale, WY
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May 18, 2019 - 11:27am PT
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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May 18, 2019 - 02:59pm PT
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this is one of the best threads on here-that and the one about your son growing up climbing. Thanks Mike M. If i wanted to find you in Bozeman how could i do that?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2019 - 07:54pm PT
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david my email is mikemcneil1969@hotmail.com c ya all
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