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Hickicick
climber
NV
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Oct 12, 2014 - 10:14pm PT
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Anybody have some topos of high energy that they'd be so kind as to share? Its a super cool area and it'd be nice to know about newer routes that aren't in the Anderson guide.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Oct 13, 2014 - 11:08am PT
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Bump for High Energy! That place is the Eagle Lake cliff of Woodfords.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Oct 13, 2014 - 10:13pm PT
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High Energy is like Eagle Lake cliff with 5 spacewalks minus the foreign day hikers.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Oct 14, 2014 - 07:13am PT
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You and yo woman gonna have to make do splashing around in the river.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Oct 30, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
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I've installed anchors on pitch 4 of topo oceans and it can now be rapped with a single 70m. I checked out your original variation, Dan. Bold and spicy is all I have to say. Tough moves on thin to nonexistent gear. Not sure I would want to repeat the route that way. Maybe someday...
Heading down Sunday weather dependent.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Five rigs out at the Fortress yesterday. Wicked cold and a bit windy but overall not awful. No snow on the south-facing side though there was a light dusting up high on the north-facing side
Four of us dashed up Topo Ocean. Tim and Tyson finished via the sick finger crack on Yellow Fin and Patrick and I did the 4th pitch variation of T.O. Saw another party over at the Books.
Weather's looking good for the rest of the week, so it's gonna be primetime at the fords. Get after it!
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Nov 16, 2014 - 07:55pm PT
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Who picked off this gem? Thought it was possibly an FA, until we looked up about 15 ft beyond the corner and saw some old rappel tat.
Thought it was probably a touch harder than Perfect lieback, but similar quality and length. The line is about 150 yards West of the Books area of the Fortress, and a little higher up the hill.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Nov 19, 2014 - 11:00am PT
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I'd have to agree with Tyson. This corner crack is easily as classic as the Perfect Lieback but a bit hard (like 5.9 or so). We removed the tat and installed some anchors at the top. We also found two crack climbs on the east-facing formation below this corner were also classic. A full 30m of perfect hands and fingers in bullet stone.
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kennyt
Trad climber
Oregon
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Nov 28, 2014 - 12:55pm PT
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Lookin good.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Great crag, Dan. John's gonna be upset I went over there and didn't get on his route. He's been telling me to for awhile now.
Went back to Main Alcove on Sat and climbed Serenity Now. Man, it is really good. We also ventured up the hand crack flake, knob job 50 feet right of it (the first pitch of the Unknown 10a in the Anderson guide?).
Next time I want to climb High Jinx to the Albatross. I have no idea what to expect so it should be quite the adventure. I gathered from earlier posts it has belay anchors.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Dec 20, 2014 - 01:54am PT
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Drove thru in AM and out in PM today. Not to muddy the thread any, but saw so many boulders around Luther Pass too.
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Hickicick
climber
NV
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Jan 10, 2015 - 05:11pm PT
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BUMPPPP.
What are some good .11 lines to get on up at the fortress? Just curious what other stuff is up there besides the obvious like hand of god and arrowhead and stuff.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Jan 10, 2015 - 07:39pm PT
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The route just right of Hand of God (forms the right side of the same formation) is a good route. You start thinking it's a gimmie, then you round the corner and it changes up a bit. Good fun, good bolts on top, pro to 3", small wires useful.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Jan 20, 2015 - 10:00pm PT
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Today was warm in the sun, chilly in the shade
And this is prolly as good a place as any to add some pics I had of chim-chim & friends from the gorge around halloween
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jan 21, 2015 - 04:37pm PT
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Dan
Im cleared to climb again so keep me on your short list....
Out of town this weekend though..
Shawn
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jan 31, 2015 - 08:01am PT
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Small group of us headed out today to the fortress. Too many off us for multi pitch, so I think we will be just cragging 5.easy to 5.11ish. If you're bored and want to sink into some granite you should definitely cruise up. We'll be at the fortress parking in an hour or so.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Someone removed that block, Dan? Probably for the best. I've been out with a shoulder injury for the last few months. Looking forward to getting back out there soon.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Ha, ya Dan, the weekend before last we counted 8 cars at the Fortress. We climbed obscurities so we didn't see hardly anybody though... Kenny H. and I both led Dan-O-Bolt for the first time... verrrry cool stuff. More physical than I had bargained for at the top, but we both grunted through it clean. (more grunting was had by me, I think)
This Saturday, we had some fun on all of The Books area routes (the block was still there when we climbed Cat Scratch) then headed over to Wood Hood, where some of us got our butts whipped on the first pitch of HoG, (although I think I dialed some foot beta on TR that will make it go clean next time), while others cruised the first pitch of Yellow Fin. Then we all finished on Arrowhead. What a route! Didn't get the OS, but I think the RP is definitely going down next time we head up there.
Laine you gotta heal up!
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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For the onsite attempt Kenny and I both thought .11a was stout, but if you know the moves, I think it is fair? It is definitely powerful to get yourself established on that undercling and high enough to clip the bolt. I think we both said either Dan-O is soft or Arrowhead is stiff after climbing it...
Such a cool feature though. And that perfect foothold at the undercling seems like it was placed by a gym setter! Love it when natural lines work out so perfectly like that.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Dan, I've rapped Topo Ocean from the top a few times and never had a problem with a stuck rope. But in hindsight I should have moved that third station 15 feet climber's right.
Sweet pics, Tyson. Looked like a great day up there. I'm hitting basecamp tonight for some strength training and light bouldering if your around. Definitely using those resistance bands. Have a PT session tomorrow so I'll keep at it until I'm 100%.
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