Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2016 - 09:01am PT
|
anyone know if the fortress is in good climbing shape right now?
|
|
i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2016 - 02:13pm PT
|
I would have to say yes. Haven't been down there but based on that exposure up here at the lake I would think it would be good to go.
|
|
T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2016 - 07:00pm PT
|
Cool, we're gonna give it a go tomorrow, try and tick a corner system just to the climber's right of hand of god... I've looked at it forever and never managed to get on it. Will report back here with photos.
|
|
Madabbor
Sport climber
Incline Village, NV
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2016 - 10:36pm PT
|
Trying to get down there Tuesday the 16th with my cousin for first time...supposed to be 62 in Tahoe...anyone PM me if you want to guide us around.
|
|
T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2016 - 09:23am PT
|
The Fortress is in prime condition right now, not sure why I had any doubt... The "Right Hand of God" line i've wanted to get on forever was really good. I'd put the rating somewhere around .10+/.11- It has a brief heartbreaker finish on small wires, but other wise is solid liebacking and hand and fist jams. Not anywhere as sustained as the final pitch of HoG, which is why I think the rating fits in there somewhere.
It has hardware at the top, so this is not uncharted territory, (not that I thought it would be) I just have never managed to get info on this one from Dan or others. If anyone knows the rating/name/history post it up!
Pulling around the mini-roof on this climb provided the best exposure I've found anywhere at Woodfords. We also got on smearing for jesus as an approach pitch (harder than I remember) and Kenny RP'd Sun Wall Left, and we finished on Perfect Lieback as a night cap on a great day...
Get out to the Fords! Prime conditions, dry stone.
|
|
overwatch
climber
Arizona
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2016 - 04:36pm PT
|
Man, that looks cool.
|
|
MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
|
|
|
Feb 20, 2016 - 08:57pm PT
|
Just realized how close this place is for us now that we are in Bishop.
Planning on a trip very soon! Stoked, and thanks for the thread, Footloose!
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
|
|
|
Feb 20, 2016 - 10:58pm PT
|
I get to drive by there on one of my side jobs alot.
I would call it an easy 2 hours north of Mammoth if you use the golf course (7/ 11 store)
shortcut before Gardnerville.
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2016 - 11:04pm PT
|
Another stellar day at the Fortress today. Temps could not be better right now.
|
|
MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
|
|
As soon as Skippy's torn calf heals, we are planning a trip up!
Probably mid-late March.
Woohoo! A new place!
|
|
Hickicick
climber
NV
|
|
Tyson and I got out to the Tiers and checked out Golden Shower yesterday. Leading it I opted for the path of least resistance and went up the a dirty little chimney. The direct finish looked pretty rad though, and cleaner. For its short size its pumpy and has everything from .4 to 4's! South side of the canyon is getting into season. Also, has anybody ever been on the right traversing roof halfway up one of these days? It looks pretty sweet!
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2016 - 04:31pm PT
|
Been quiet round these parts as of late. The southside is primetime right now, so I'm throwing down some good old climbing porn.
Tyson getting ionized on Neutron!
Taken by yours truly on 7/17/16 at High Energy Wall.
|
|
jose gutierrez
Trad climber
sacramento,ca
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2016 - 11:09pm PT
|
^Is that splitter to the left Proton?! Looks amazing, thanks for sharing Laine!
|
|
BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2016 - 11:16pm PT
|
that's a beauty pic!
but omg that crack he's got his left foot in looks awesome:)
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2016 - 08:27am PT
|
That splitter is part of Neutron, though you could climb it by itself. Proton is an enduro finger crack, to the left of it (next corner over), and the splitter cuts directly over to the Proton anchors.
|
|
T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2016 - 12:10pm PT
|
Thanks alot Laine, this photo is gonna blow the lid right off the place....we're gonna be waiting in line next time we roll into the canyon.
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2016 - 04:28pm PT
|
Sorry about the spray, Tyson. Maybe we need to set your drone to defend-mode to keep the hordes at bay.
Oh and BTW
|
|
i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
|
|
|
May 11, 2017 - 07:46pm PT
|
Anyone have info on what is above the 5.8 hand crack in the books? I've heard of another pitch but don't know for sure. If so, would belaying from the Cat Scratch Fever anchors be feasible so as to keep an eye on the dogs below (and be visible to them)?
|
|
sasha Cohen
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
|
|
|
May 12, 2017 - 09:37am PT
|
Milty and I placed an anchor above The Books prolly 80 feet up. Needs some chain ...old tat by now. The left hand arête is 5.6r, the center route is 5.8 we climbed to the left of the annoying little tree. The right hand route is 5.7r. Good stuff
|
|
T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Been daydreaming of the 'Fords as of late.... Who's been up?
I would imagine both sides are nearly climbable depending on the day? Fortress was calling my name last Sat (2/3/18), but her siren call wasn't strong enough. Maybe this weekend.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!