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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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Apr 11, 2010 - 01:47pm PT
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chicks, cracks, & cheap cheeseburgers, what more could you need.
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IkeH20
Social climber
NY
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Apr 11, 2010 - 01:50pm PT
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Engraving at Register Cliff. One of thousands.
So that about sums it all up. What's not to love?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 11, 2010 - 03:52pm PT
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Whatever happened to her?
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Apr 11, 2010 - 06:03pm PT
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a few more from one of my favorite states....
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 11, 2010 - 10:50pm PT
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Is this, with the old fat ass guy on it, Gunga Din?
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max factor
Trad climber
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Apr 11, 2010 - 11:16pm PT
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yes,it is Gunga Din
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 11, 2010 - 11:49pm PT
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Jaybro-
Yes, that's Gunga Din; 5.11a/b. It's a little easier for taller climbers. The climber in the picture is right at the crux, if I remember correctly--maybe just above it.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 12, 2010 - 12:00am PT
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The picture also shows the entirity of "5.11 Crack" very well. There is another variation that goes diagonally up and left from the only bolt on "5.11 Crack" to join lower Fall Wall, but I cannot recall the name of the route. It's also harder than "5.11 Crack," it's either 5.9+ or 5.10a--depends on who is grading the route. I always believed that Veedauwoo routes were graded a bit stiffer than similar climbs at J-Tree, and that "5.11 Crack" would have been a 5.10a there, and "Gunga Din" either a 5.11b or 5.11c.
Do you have any pix of the "Water Streaks" on Walt's Wall? That route is definitely easier than "5.11 Crack" and is rated 5.9.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2010 - 12:22am PT
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Here are some photos of our trip up McCarthy West Face Fee Variation today and some others of some buddies on other routes on the west face.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 12, 2010 - 12:50am PT
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That's me on Gunga (hence the fat ass quip) in '08. I'm five ten and a half with a plus four ape index, and I thought it was desperate, popped twice right around there. That other route to the left (cuts out at the bolt) is Fear and Loathing, every bit as hard and sandbaggy as Fall wall, if you ask me. That bolt has been replaced, used to be a half pulled out, bent over, quarter incher, and we fell on it all the time, like the knuckleheads we were! We are of course much smarter now, yeah right!
Nice shots Mike M, the last one is too funny! Was that really today? was cohort the Colonel around? I got in a five mile trail run today befor the rain drenched sunny california, yet again, it's like a broken record... Good run but I would happily have have swapped it to be climbing classic routes on the West Face today! Cheers!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2010 - 01:17am PT
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Today it was. Only four of us on the West Face all day. The west face is usually closed this time of year due to falcon closure but apperently no nesting yet. There were falcons flying all over all day but it sure was nice. 65 today 75 tomorrow. Did you say you haven't done some climbing on the Missouri Buttes. I have always wanted to check them out but I heard the Cambells Soup Tycoon owned them and doesn't appreciate visitors.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Apr 12, 2010 - 01:45am PT
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How 'bout a little love for the Museum of the Mountain Man
in Pinedale? Best $5 you'll spend in a while...
(I think this is Locker if I'm not mistaken)
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 12, 2010 - 09:57am PT
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Jaybro-
I'm actually planning several trips to Veedauwoo this Summer--wanna' meet up? I really have a vendetta with several climbs there: "Fear and Loathing," "Gunga Din," (I never was able to complete the route--my fingertips had abraded off after 3 falls--my little wife Anne did it 1st try and no falls :>() I'm 5'10 but weigh in at 197 pounds these days. I too have a great "ape index" but it sure didn't help on Gunga Din. On the other hand, Anne was 5'0" and weighed 100 pounds and HAD NO PROBLEMS. She sure smirked a lot for several days!! Grrr!!
As you pointed out, some of the bolts were pretty manky even 20 years ago. has anybody replaced the bolts on Fall Wall? They probably caught more falls than just about any of them . Appropriately named climb, eh? Jim Halfpenny routinely climbed Fall Wall in Terray Mountaineering boots! But that was before anyone realized just how hard the climb was.
I now recall that "Gunga Din" was reported in Mountain magazine as being 5.11d by Paul Piana; "more knowledgable locals" downgraded it to 5.11a for the so-called guidebook at the time.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 12, 2010 - 10:09am PT
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Too funny about gunga din! Those tiny wiry women...
I plan to 've in vedauwoo and maybe v- deto , around the 20th of. July, chasbro's 60th bd in gillette.
Heard the same thing about the Campbell soup guy... Though I have seen topos for the mo buttes.
Once upon a time, that guy was to import and raise wild african animals there, and charge peoble to come 'hunt' them; bad karma on too many levels....
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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Apr 12, 2010 - 11:19am PT
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schurz peak secret choss pile
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 12, 2010 - 12:18pm PT
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Jaybro-
Too bad about the timing! I've already mades plans to meet some other old farts down in Colorado that week to bag some 14ers. We've got Quandary peak, Castle peak, Mt. Bierstadt, Mts. Lincoln & Bross in our sights already. Possibly Mts. Oxford and Belford, too. It's the only time my friends an I can coordinate the timing, since one friend is driving out from St. Louis, and the other flying in from LA.
The only time(s)I've been to DT I did the Durrance route. I failed one other time on the Soler--right after I was rehabbing from a shattered rt. ankle--too weak and still sore. I took a grounder in Eldo--heard the bones pop 50 feet away!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 12, 2010 - 12:22pm PT
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Re: the Campbell soup guy and his game farming--the State of Wyoming G & F put a kabosh on those plans by saying that there was no way he could keep some animals from escaping and in some cases interbreeding with local animals. That's been dead for a long time.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 12, 2010 - 01:03pm PT
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yeah, I know my bro the lawdog was tangentially involved in that one, just thought it was a colorful story, sheesh what do they have against ferrel hyena coyote hybrids, how bad could that be? Maybe african lions and cougars could be interbreed to bring back sabertoothss (sabreteeth?) What could go wrong?
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cowpoke
climber
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Apr 12, 2010 - 01:28pm PT
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not just the cowboy state...cowgirl state too.
go pokes!
another view of the medicine bow diamond and diamond buttress...where else can you climb 3-4 pitches of alpine and be to work before lunch?
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