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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 20, 2012 - 04:18pm PT
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Hey,, if I have to have seen Everest to be taken seriously around here, I object. No fair to put that to Donini. It is a question he put forth to get a reaction, not to get slammed. Stay the hell on point, gents.
And lades.
A Basque shepherd sat in a field. He looked at the sky, saw sheep. He asked himself, "Who is their shepherd? Who is their guide?" He decided not to pursue the question as it began to storm.
I think morals belong in the knapsack; ethics, no.
Maybe that's the question, when people die. Or are they brother questions?
Either way, they are important, worthy of discussion.
Marlow, I wonder what kind of jokes Tamae would make about her age. They are likely to be Bwaa-halarious. From the ex-Aquarian Mouse.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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May 20, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
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Mouse
To not follow your guidance, but your reasoning and stay off topic.
There is a Tamae and there is a Tami. Concerning Tamae's jokes I'm as curious as you are. When it comes to Tami we already know the jokes would bwaa-halarious unless we expect them to be bwaa-halarious, in which case they could easily end up not being or being obnoxious in such a way that we had to use all our skills to stay clear of her pencils. In any case I'm quite sure the jokes would be put on their head which is Tami's proper perspective unless she has been standing for a long time on her head, in which case they could be straigthforeward.
These words must not be interpreted, but taken at face value. Let them flow in a zen-like way.
And remember to forget about the pencils...
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 20, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
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My mind is a blank eraser.
I would stand on my head to make Tami and all her friends laff.
I bought a Outside Mag May 2012 before I took the bus to YV Friday nite.
I didn't read the article I wanted to, but will as soon as I post.
The title, Giving Everest the Bird, sounds like more joy in Brahmaputra land.
Lurid leads on the cover.
Exclusive: Life & Death on Everest
inside the rescue disaster that could change the peak forever
Plus: Surviving 29,000 feet
who summits, who dies, and why
why do I read about climbing?
"Christ!"--Russ Walling :)
Buy the mag and find out who the authors are. I may just go for a walk to the top of the Tioga, "Merced's Highest." smoke break.
then I'll read the article.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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May 21, 2012 - 12:01am PT
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There is no "Everest". Pretentious Brits.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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May 21, 2012 - 12:41am PT
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I was surprised to wake up this morning and find silence about what is happening on
Everest. If someone who was on the mountain reports six deaths and there is no news
it must mean there is a great deal of confusion and also that all efforts on the mountain
are directed toward ongoing rescues.
It has happened in the past that people's deaths have been falsely reported in the media
only for the people involved to reappear quite alive, after their families had already gone
into shock and grief. Various websites were highly criticized for that and now perhaps they
err on the other side with no news.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 21, 2012 - 01:13am PT
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I was surprised to wake up this morning, period.
I'm very glad to say the Outside article has to do with B-3 helis and "what will this mean for climbing and trekking among the greatest mountains on earth." It's OT and the rescue in question was on Ama Dablam.
Never mind...
I am not entertaining much hope for the second article. In the a.m.
It's a good article on the subject of helis, mind you.
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StevenStrong
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 21, 2012 - 01:24am PT
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If I were going to climb everest I would want to do it with Donini and other friends. It is about the experience and not about the summit, and Donini would only make the experience that much better. I would send Coz a postcard though :)
steve
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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May 21, 2012 - 02:50am PT
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I just got an email from Sherpa friends in Kathmandu. The Sherpa Excursions team
from Rolwaling is safely back in base camp on the north side. They have no news
of fatalities on the southside. Let us hope this was just a false rumor.
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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May 21, 2012 - 03:03am PT
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5:29 PM Monday May 21, 2012
A German doctor has died while descending from the Everest summit, and a Nepalese official says four other climbers may be missing on the world's highest mountain.
Ang Tshering of the Asian Trekking in Katmandu said 61-year-old Eberhard Schaaf died Saturday. Doctors believe he had high altitude cerebral edema.
Kamal Shrestha of Nepal's Mountaineering Department said a Nepal-born Canadian national identified as Shriya Shah is also missing on the mountain.
Shrestha said he has heard of a Korean, a Chinese and a Nepali Sherpa guide missing on their way back but did not have any more details.
May is the busiest month for climbing attempts on the 8,850-meter (29,035-foot) summit.
 AP
http://www.nzherald.co.nz/world/news/article.cfm?c_id=2&objectid=10807374
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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May 21, 2012 - 06:47am PT
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The German doctor, a Nepalese born Canadian woman, and a Korean all
died descending on the south side. The Chinese climber died descending
the north side.
There is one unidentified body on the north side who may or may not
be the missing Nepalese Sherpa.
All the dead apparently made it to the summit and then died of
altitude sickness on the way down, although the Korean is reported
to have fallen because of altitude problems.
It appears that pud's friend made it down ok.
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Lightenin'
climber
Muleshoeville
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May 21, 2012 - 07:44am PT
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From the NY Times article posted above:
The first clear weather conditions of the spring climbing season were Friday and Saturday ...
An estimated 150 climbers reached the summit on either day, most of them on Saturday.
How can that be a worthwhile experience? I stand in line to check out groceries and maybe for a movie, not for a summit.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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May 21, 2012 - 10:38am PT
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these routes on the north face are too dangerous due to oxygen bottles being tossed off the guided north ridge!
not morally defensible.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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May 21, 2012 - 11:03am PT
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The ladder is on the north side on the second step.
It was put there by the Chinese expedition back in the 1960's.
One of the big questions regarding whether Mallory or Irvine made the top is
whether they could have climbed that section without the ladder.
Conrad Anker thinks not. Other people think they took a different route and
many note that there was more snow in those days and all routes were likely easier.
You know, if you guys would stop feasting on lobsters, you might even be able
to drag those sleds up the ladder!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2012 - 11:08am PT
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Jan, I have never understood this obsession climbers have about Mallory/Irvine. Getting to the top is optional, getting back down is obligatory. A climb means little if you don't get back to tell the tale.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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May 21, 2012 - 11:25am PT
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I agree with Ron.
I have always hoped that Mallory and Irvine made it given their primitive
equipment compared to all who came later.
I've read just about everything to do with them since I also love a good mystery.
Some amazing detective work has gone into trying to figure it out.
As for whether the summit matters if you don't make it back down, that's
another interesting ethical question alright. Personally, being alive has always
been more important to me but I know when Frank was killed that I was gratified
that he died on the descent, not the climb, because I knew that would be
important to him.
And always in the mountains, there is the issue of luck. I've always been an
admirer of Peter Boardman, both as a climber and a writer. But even he died
on Everest.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 21, 2012 - 11:28am PT
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Cliffhager, that article postinalmost sounds like it is a "must-read" for those of us who basically read High in the Thin Cold Air and forgot about Everest until 1996. It seems only to have become worse up there in the thin cold air.
[goddang it where's my inhaler?]
She claims one in ten as its tribute
They pay her so that others may too
Keep the line moving at all cost
Keep moving or you'll be one of the lost, folks
One in ten
Two in twenty
Buy your lottery ticket here, son
Chomolungma's waiting.
What number did you get?
Two hundred fifty?
You lucky devil...
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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May 21, 2012 - 11:28am PT
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I worked with this climber that was on an everest expedition and had attempted a technical rock route back in the 80's...I asked him if he ever had the urge to go back to everest ..." Are you joking " was his reply..." Why would i want to do something stupid like that"...? He elaborated and said how miserable it was at altitude and feeling like you had the flu all the time..He related a story how he almost fell to his death crawling out of his tent to pee and forgetting to clip in....About this time there was a reality program about tourons getting dragged up everest...My everest climbing buddy watched it and couldn't believe what he was seeing , unexperienced , non-climbers getting short-leashed up the worlds tallest peak on what looked like the yukon trail....Base camp looked like a over-crowded refugee camp of altitude-sick eco-tourists....Uggh!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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May 21, 2012 - 11:39am PT
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Worse than that!
Explorersweb.com is now reporting that 300 made the summit
on Saturday if you count both sides of the mountain.
And there were over 750 in base camp waiting to climb before this began.
Only 450 more to go!
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