Woodfords Canyon

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stella

climber
cali
Mar 18, 2010 - 01:15am PT
thanks guys....got some of the stuff off mountain project, looks like plenty to entertain. hopefully we'll run into you and i can scum some more beta...we'll be the ones with two big dogs. cheers, matt
stella

climber
cali
Mar 20, 2010 - 12:33am PT
dan-

thanks for all the beta. we didn't get a whole ton of climbing in today (my partners left around 1 PM) but checked out the Books area. the 5.8 was phenomenal, and cat scratch fever was cool too (except for the death flake low on the route). didn't get on any of the harder or newer stuff this time, next time i'll check it out. o.u.l.d. and mr. personality looked pretty cool, the rock is reminiscent of the new stuff in pine creek near bishop. overall, woodfords gets a BIG thumbs up! everything we got on was 4-5 star quality, and we barely scratched the surface. looking forward to a guidebook coming out, kind of hard to find your way around there on your own....a little too much rock. i'd have to say that woodfords is probably my new winter destination (sorry sugarloaf). anyways thanks for all your hard work, i'll hit you up next time i'm in the area. cheers, matt
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Mar 20, 2010 - 01:40am PT
Really looking forward to your guide Dan ...Although it might be the demise of that little "gem" of an area....Been occassionally falling my way up classics around "Fords" since the 70's. Your devotion to the area is admirable. Best wishes and keep up the good work.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2010 - 01:23pm PT
Visited obscure sections of Woodfords Canyon this weekend.

Anyone know anything about this corner crack above the Epoxy Wall. Chim?


Too bad some obscurities are 1,000 vertical feet
or more up the hill. I haven't tried any of these.
They look to be pretty nice.

It was a beautiful day. Here you can look down
on the highway and see cars of climbers who are up on the Fortress:

For anyone who wishes to explore the area, this photo looks
down on the highway and the backside of the famous Big Bertha.

Higher up:


FYI, One of these Days, a Woodfords Classic on the South
Side is now in the sun in the afternoon. Climbers were there
on Sunday.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2010 - 10:02am PT
Where are you, Chim-Chim?

What's that corner crack called
above the Epoxy Wall and what's it
go at?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2010 - 02:58pm PT
Chim, thanks. Good to know.

I actually didn't get to its base. I
got distracted by another path to another
interest.

Please take my photo if you can and mark up your
approach to this crack. This would be so
helpful.

FL


P.S. Give it a name so I can talk about
climbing it- this 5.9+. It's the one I want to
do.
Tattooed 1

Trad climber
Sebastopol, Ca
May 5, 2010 - 03:03pm PT
Hey Chim,
Is there any published topo info available yet? If so where can I get it?
Tim
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
Spent yesterday at One Of These
Days. FYI, it is once again in the sun.

The best 5.10c in Lake Tahoe:

Took 3 laps on this baby.
(dang, have to clean the dust off the lens...)

Another view:


If I weren't so sore, alas, I'd be back there today.
Happy climbing everybody in Lake Tahoe and the High Sierras
this summer!


BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
May 17, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
Chim

Give me a shout when you get back. Have fun in the Ditch.
Foot...we all need to hook up sometime.

Shawn
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2010 - 05:11pm PT
Chim- Wonderful news!
Good luck down there. Have fun!

Call or email when ready Shawn, when you can make
it. Any time.

It's raining here, now, today.
Which is good. My flowerbeds need it.
nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
May 21, 2010 - 03:08am PT
Boys and girls, cross-posting a recent TR to the Fortress area:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1174042/TR-2010-05-Woodfords-Widefest-Lite

We were suckered into the sandy direct ascent! Too lazy to keep going to the knoll :)

There really is an amazing amount of route potential up there... just cataloging it all is going to be an effort similar to the Jtree guidebook.

Footloose and msiddens, I was definitely thinking of you boys when I headed up there! Overall I'm still in the midst of my Yosemite obsession years, but I'll keep spicing it up with Woodfords as needed.

msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
May 21, 2010 - 01:56pm PT
Thanks Nutjob- same here....heading to the Valley (again) but Spring is coming to a close.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 21, 2010 - 02:41pm PT
I'm Valley bound too. But, I'm planning to get over there soon...
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
May 22, 2010 - 12:41pm PT
Dan
We still on for Mondays photo session?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 22, 2010 - 01:05pm PT
Astroface is a cool send.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2010 - 03:54pm PT
Jaybro- Why not grab Zander or Em or Nutjob, come up, it'll give us a chance to meet, and I'll show you the wide in the first picture. It's called the Big Bad Wolf and getting to it is an effectively nice calorie burner. (If that's part of your goal structure.) :)

Chim- Can't wait to hear all about it. Makes me terribly envious. I'd ask if I could join you and Shawn Monday but think the weather's going to be sketch:

http://forecast.weather.gov:80/MapClick.php?lat=38.770145674423965&lon=-119.84024047851562&site=rev&smap=1&unit=0&lg=en&FcstType=text


Thanks again for snagging my cap, I climb a whole number lower without it.



Siddens- Your climbing in Yosemite makes me all ancy and jealous inside when I think about it- so I try not to think about it. But good on ya!
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
May 23, 2010 - 01:54am PT
Dan, Sasha and Friends of Woodfords
I would like to get a little group together up there for some camping and story telling as well as sharing beta on the areas. I am willing to BBQ my ass off to feed anyone and make arrangements for a little Woodfords Fest.
If anyone is interested please let me know and we can start planning some dates or two.
Thanks

Shawn Watson


Footy 20% Chance of Slight Snow 46 degrees ...Its a Woodfords Day!!!!!
dickcilley

Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
Jun 28, 2010 - 04:12pm PT
Hope to be there Thursday .Hope I can find something to TR. solo.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2010 - 05:54pm PT
Big guns at Woodfords yesterday:

Big strength, too:

Route beta: One Of These Days route is easier now,
a half square foot flake peeled off face- establishing
MORE purchase on lower section. Now is this
good or bad? Hmm...
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jul 1, 2010 - 02:09pm PT
Chim and Footy
Im off the next six days and may be able to get up there with you guys on one of my days off. Let me know.
Shawn
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