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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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To my mind, the Team B trifecta is:
 Swept Away, 5.11a, FA: Dave Evans and Randy Vogel, November 1977.
Figures on a Landscape, 5.10b/c, Randy Vogel and Dave Evans, November 1978. (Ahem, 10b/c for a 10d leader!)
The Last Unicorn, 5.11a, FA: (first pitch) Dave Evans, Craig Fry, and Randy Vogel, 1980. (second pitch) Alan Bartlett and Dan Michael, April 1981.
Taken from Bartlett's guides.
*Question: wasn't Spencer Lennard involved in The Last Unicorn?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Hauser, Waugh and I started bolting the Thin Red Line but none of us would commit to the crux section. We did put a TR on it and tied Hauser off hanging in the middle of the route. This was payback for him teaching us the 'meter game' when being TR'ed on Wanger Banger the day before. We did eventually come let Hauser down... after about an hour of hang time.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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I was never a big fan of the meter game.
I'll walk off, thanks!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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I see Bartlett made the same mistake a lot of people make. There isn't an "h" in Jonny's first name. What's wrong with people? Don't they realize the Brits don't even have an "h" in their alphabet? Think about it. Ever hear a Brit pronounce an "h"? I thought not.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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What is "The Meter Game?"
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Ha ha.
Not Bartlett's mistake, Darrel. Mine.
I use voice control software for typing and it defaults to Johnny.
Correction made!
...............................................................
The meter game:
One of those euros, maybe that really strong germanic alpinist guy ( Reinhard Karl?) with the round glasses who visited us (and rode an avalanche down San Jacinto) ... would ask, before someone was about to be lowered from a top rope: "How many meters?"
Then, he, or whoever was belaying, (whether or not the victim had indicated any number of meters) would throw a bunch of slack in the system (IIRC, a big monkey fist knot was employed as a stop) and the lowering climber would be dropped quite some distance.
Overhanging rock preferred. It became very common at The Beaver.
Russ once let me go for about 20 feet, and started laughing, and told me my head and hair looked like a pineapple.
That party trick got old pretty quick for most of us.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Spencer was not on The Last Unicorn
I would substitute "Such a Savage" for "Swept Away" on the trifecta.
And imagine that, I first scoped them and then put the first ropes on all 3 of them!
These 3 routes have some of the best rock quality in the park.
The rock quality on "Swept Away" is just so so.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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If I'm still posting too much fluff, let me know
I don't want to ruin such a fun thread..
here is what I've been doing.
I just Google a name, go to images, and pick out some fun ones to post
Like the Manxy Dude
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Google search results
The Sheep Buggerers of JT...BITD :: SuperTopo Rock Climbing ...
http://www.supertopo.com › Climber's Discussion Forum
SuperTopo
Apr 6, 2016 - 20 posts - 15 authors
Russ Walling ... The Sheepbuggar Flow Chart was created by Russ .... Sounds like a rare sighting of the Sheep Buggerers' patron saint and ...
Thin Red Line
Henny led it but he forgot to put 2 of the bolts in.
Maybe someone needs to fix it so it could be a normal sport climb.
I just checked the guide, it's 5.12c R
Does it really need to be an "R"
maybe later today I'll go out there and fix it....
for ya
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Thought I'd post this one of Mike Casper and Rob Raker from our trip to climb Orizaba in '84 or so. Mike was a peripheral buggerer and shared our household in La Mesa with Freriks, Mooney and the Manx.
Bad info a post or two above regarding Last Unicorn. RV left the ground first and placed the first bolt. I went from there on the ill-famed "acid traverse" and placed the next bolt or two. I believe RV finished the pitch.
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Craig,
LOL LOL LOL -lots of fluff on that butt!! I like the Manxy one though ; )
Thanks for all the photos. Who's the Viking puffing a fatty with Mo??
Hope I get to attend a reunion someday...fun times! Keep it up.
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Roy,
Thanks for the clarification on the Vicki's and the comparison to Sue...what a compliment! LOVE the skinny on your guided ascent of the Nose with Giuliano and the Rock Star lifestyle with Inge, good fun! I have a passion for Italians ; ) My dad was from Italia. Haven't been since the late 80's, but am brushing up on my Itailan in the hopes to hit the Dolomite mountains in the next couple years. Always enjoy the On Belay! 1981 photo no matter how many times I see it, I get a BIG grin on my face. Carry On....V
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Even grainy and crusty routes at Josh cleaned up over time. Coarse and Buggy was very crusty on the FFA:
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Serious wedggie, those shorts are tyrannical.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Jonny Woodward, in 1982/3 when he first came to the US - on an early ascent of Scary Poodles. Check out the "Contact" shoes. The change in manufacturing of EBs in 1982, to a pre-molded rand and sole, was widely criticized as a blunder that made the shoes inferior in performance. People began looking for an alternative, and the Contact was one of these shoes. But, soon, Bachar meet up with some Spaniards who had a new shoe (the Fire) and climbing shoes were never the same again.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Mari, ever fashionable, showing off the latest in Cliffhanger ear-wear.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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CLASSIC photo of Vicki and Chester (her dog) Roy! I can't believe you found it! That was May 1987...I was busy soloing The Aquarian Wall towards the end of a year-long road trip. We moved to Wenatchee July 4, got married August 17, opened our new dental practice December 7. That was rad!
(sorry LA Woman...I like Vicki's a lot but I don't think I know you)
Tom Michael
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Awesome! Since Tom Michael (Hummerchine) has honored us with a post or two. I will post this shot of him leading Semi Tough (edit- Thanks Russell)
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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More Margy!
My lovely young girlfriend and now almost ex-wife (after 33 years together) Margy Floyd on the Apron. Remind me what the route is, everyone has done it......(edit) Son of Sam 5.10a???
Margy on the Traveler Buttress, Lovers Leap
Margy on Lotta Balls, Red Rocks
Margy on Ancient Arts, Fisher Towers (all free ascent)
Margy on a serious mtn. bike ride in Moab area with Greg Epperson and Jim Angione
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