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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Sep 28, 2013 - 10:43am PT
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Bill, most the stuff I've put in are 3" If your using a power drill go deep baby.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2013 - 09:55am PT
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Kenny, thanks for the feedback.
We went with the three inch, the additional depth
gives a way better feeling.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Sep 30, 2013 - 10:36am PT
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Dan, are there some new anchors up there?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Sep 30, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
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Moose, are you missing a #1 camalot? one ended up on my gear sling and I don't think I put it there.let me know
Kenny
Footloose, nice hangers u got there!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Sep 30, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
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My bad, Dan. I've lowered off many a shut before without thinking twice. But I have many stainless hangers so I'll replace them this weekend.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Sep 30, 2013 - 05:46pm PT
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Dan - glad to hear you got on the route. I start just left of the huge broken left-facing corner below the first roof, climb directly up and traverse left at the horizontal that tops the finger crack. From there, up the left arête to the anchors. Didn't look at the face option that avoids the scramble up to the start but it's probably a nice variation.
I agree there's still some looseness in the middle of the climb but it is easy to avoid with great pro I didn't want to get into that house of cards. I think all the death blocks have been removed.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Sep 30, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
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Ok moose,
What suggestions for next years woodfest do you have?
I know woodfest was kinda put together hastily.
Maybe some sponsors? Hahaha
And that was my route you destroyed......I'm gonna sick Renada on you for that!!!
Shawn
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Sep 30, 2013 - 07:20pm PT
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I think it's even better now.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Hey thanks, Dan, means a lot. Hopefully see you gents out there this weekend.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Not closed :)
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Ron
I will continue to have PIG/Woodfest every year as long as interest continues. Ill try and get Foghat or some other classic band to play to livin it up a little ;)
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Kenny - finally lead Dr. Sleep. Was able to get a 0.4 just below the bolt but still clipped it. Glad I did, the next placement under the roof is quite a ways above it. Total thought provoking placements the whole way.
Dan - we also did Long Arm. Might be the best climb up there??? The partners and I all loved it. Great crack at the start with thin, balancey moves for the entire top half all the way to the chains. Super fun.
The top tier is top notch.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Awesome. Rico and myself will be down in red rocks this Thursday thru next Tuesday to climb with some friends. Hit me up if you wanna meet up.
775-848-2622
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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I've been spending some time up at Babylon Crag lately. Great lines, plenty of potential, and not a single other person. Definitely stoked for some cold weather scending at the fords though. Dan - I'd love to get a look at the topo of your fortress climbs. Those gems will probably keep me busy all winter.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Dan - I've never been able to figure that topo out. Where does Weak Stick start as a point of reference?
Babylon is good. Dirty but bullet rock with plenty of corners and splitters and slab. I have a picture topo I can send you but am wary to post it up for fear of the hordes "discovering" this historic stone. ;)
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Hence the quotes, Ron. Much has been added/upgraded since then.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Damn you and your big words, Jeebus! Manzanita is not that bad - kudos to whomever took the time to cut out a decent trail. I did 4 routes there last weekend, 3 of which are not in the guide book, all of which were stellar. Okay, enough thread drift.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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The trail getting there is nonexistant. But around the base they've done a decent job. But that's just a sign of solitude. Did your friends put up those climbs on the upper south side of the wall? I did a 5.10+ up there that was amazing (but dirty). Double hand cracks to a steep single handcrack on a detached pinnacle thru a roof to flaring fingers. There's a chminey climb right next to it. Very cool stuff.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Not yet but it's on the list along with Helping Hands.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Yea Dan Seeliger has a great eye for new climbs. I guess when you own a refuge larger than Yose with massive walls, you get good at that kinda stuff. Not sure if he scrubbed PCT crack as well but it wouldn't suprise me. Dude really puts in the effort.
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