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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Thursday, October 31, 2024 
Print Book
Price: $29.95
Format: Printed Guidebook
 
Downloadable eBook
Price: $26.95 (no shipping cost, save 41%)
Format: Downloadable eBook (PDF)
Ships in: immediately downloadable
Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 

Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations

      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review
  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review
  “Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer
  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 
Try before you buy!
We’ve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo you’ve ever seen!
Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
I’N’I Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
Gettin’ Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9


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