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Zion
Climbing: Free and Clean
|
Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the
most comprehensive climber’s
guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful
national parks in the United States. Inside you will find
up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s
best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s
most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from
10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making
this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available
to Zion.
Zion
Climbing Experts praise:
“If
you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend
picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure
that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking
for things that you can climb.
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read
the full review
“When
we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had
a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to
find routes without any aid climbing in them.
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read
the full review
“Bryan
Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a
great collection of route information that provides plenty of
leads to adventure in this magical spot.
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear
Innovator
“Finally,
a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion
big wall adventure.
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished
Big Wall Speed Climber
“SuperTopo
offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own
adventure with history to each route.
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber
and Mountaineer
“After
perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo,
I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free)
return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read
the full review
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Complete
List of Included Climbs |
Route Name |
Formation |
|
|
Review |
The Organasm |
The Organ |
2 |
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12 |
|
The Monkeys Always Send Dude |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope) |
|
The Man Eater |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.10+ C1 |
|
The Holy Roller |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11 |
|
The Hernia |
The Watchman |
10 |
III 5.11/11+ |
|
The Headache |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
The Gypsys Curse |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
The Groper |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
The Greer |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
The Great Beyond |
Weeping Rock |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
The Dark Tower |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+ |
|
The Brown Fairy |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
The Big Lebowski |
West Temple |
21 |
IV/V 5.11a/b |
|
Tatoween |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 |
|
Take Back the Rainbow |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
Swoop Gimp or be Dust |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Sweep the Leg Johnny |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
Swamp Donkey |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11- A0 |
|
Strikes and Gutters |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10 C1 |
|
Spicy Flakes |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
Spaceshot |
Leaning Wall |
9 |
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13 |
|
Southwest Ridge |
West Temple |
N/A |
III/IV 5.7 |
|
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney |
Three Marys |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
Southeast Ridge |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
South Ridge |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.9+R |
|
South Face |
Twin Brothers |
N/A |
III 5.5 |
|
South Face |
Angels Landing |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
Smash Mouth |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
III 5.11+ |
|
Slow and Delirious |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
Shune's Buttress |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
III/IV 5.11 |
|
Sheer Lunacy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
7 |
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13 |
|
Shadow Warrior |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
Scramble Route |
Johnson Mountain |
N/A |
IV 4th class |
|
Schnaggle Tooth |
East Temple |
9 |
III 5.10 R |
|
Scandalous Hooker |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.11 |
|
Sandblaster |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
S and M |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Rub it Raw |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Road to Cumorah |
Mt. Moroni |
10 |
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1 |
|
Rites of Passage |
Red Arch Mountain |
9 |
IV 5.11+ |
|
Risk Management |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10+/11- A0 |
|
Right Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
5 |
III 5.10- |
|
Riddlers Delight |
Carbuncle Buttress |
8 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
Remnants of a Party |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
Reggaetone |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.12a |
|
Rabbi Jah |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
Quanto Questo |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.12 |
|
Prodigal Sun |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.7 C2 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.6 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Unknown |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.7 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
POW, Right in the Rat |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
Plumb Line |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12 R |
|
Plan B |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
Pie For Dinner |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Picking on the Fat Kid |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
II 5.10+ |
|
Party, Variation to Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
|
|
Parlay |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 A0 |
|
Out of Wax |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
Organ Grinder |
The Organ |
2 |
II 5.9+ |
|
Omaha Bob |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Old Man of The Mountain |
East Temple |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Nut Smasher |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12c |
|
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur |
Mountain of The Sun |
10 |
III 5.7 |
|
Northeast Buttress |
Angels Landing |
8 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
North Spur Chimney Sweep |
Lady Mountain |
7 |
III 5.7 or 5.10 |
|
North Ridge, Watchman |
The Watchman |
N/A |
IV 5.10 A0 |
|
North Ridge |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
12 |
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves |
|
Never Again |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.10 |
|
Negative Ghostrider |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.11- |
|
Mythical Kings and Iguanas |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
Mortal Combat |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
More Than A Woman |
Three Marys |
5 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
Moonlight Buttress |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1 |
|
Monkeyfinger |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
Molecules of Emotion |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
IV 5.12b |
|
Mojo Risin |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1 |
|
Mojina |
Johnson Mountain |
6 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
Migraine |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
Micro Chuck |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.8 |
|
Megamahedral |
Minotaur Tower |
6 |
III/IV 5.11- |
|
Mean High Tide |
Cerberus Gendarme |
6 |
III/IV 5.10+ |
|
Master of Reality |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
5.12+ |
|
Master Blaster |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1 |
|
Made to be Broken |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10d |
|
Lunar Ecstasy |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
9 |
IV/V 5.10 C2 |
|
Lowe Route |
Angels Landing |
13 |
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3 |
|
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall |
East Temple |
8 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1 |
|
Locksmith Dihedral |
Gatekeeper Wall |
7 |
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1 |
|
Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 A0 |
|
Left Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Led By Sheep |
Aries Butte |
5 |
III 5.7 |
|
Lap Dance |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
Kung Pow Kitty |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.11 |
|
Kung Fu Fighter |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+/11- |
|
Krunk Juice |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.12+ |
|
Jolly Green Jam Crack |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
I’N’I |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
II 5.10 |
|
Ivory Coast |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.12- |
|
Iron Messiah |
The Spearhead |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
Iron Like a Lion In Zion |
Isaac |
16 |
IV/V 5.11b/c |
|
Immaculate Conception |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Hue and Cry |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10+/11- |
|
Hladick aka The Flake Route |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
Hello Mary Lou |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
Hejira |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Hans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
H.C.N. |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Globe Boulder |
Globe Boulder |
N/A |
VB/0-V5/6 |
|
Gettin’ Western |
West Temple |
18 |
V 5.11 |
|
George the Animal Steele |
Cerberus Gendarme |
4 |
II 5.10+ |
|
Gentlemans Agreement |
Three Marys |
9 |
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1 |
|
Gatekeeper Crack |
Gatekeeper Wall |
6 |
V 5.10 C2 |
|
G-String Divas |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2 |
|
Freeloader |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.12D |
|
Free Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12a R |
|
Freak Show |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12 |
|
Frans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
Forced Issue |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III/IV 5.10+ R |
|
Force Boyle |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 A0 |
|
Final Seconds |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
II 5.9 |
|
Feast of Snakes |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.11 |
|
Fang Spire |
East Temple |
6 |
IV 5.9 C3 |
|
Fails of Power |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
Excedrin |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10a |
|
Equinox |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Enter the Dragon |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10+/11- |
|
Dropping Bombs |
Leaning Wall |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
Doppleganger |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
Disco Inferno |
Desert Shield Area |
8 |
V 5.9 C2+ |
|
Desert Shield |
Desert Shield Area |
9 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Dances With Zully |
Mt. Spry |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Cynthia's Hand Job |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
Cradle to the Grave |
The Watchman |
10 |
V 5.11 C2 |
|
Crack in the Cosmic Egg |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
V 5.8 C2 |
|
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
III 5.7 |
|
Cowboy Coffee |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2 |
|
Cosmic Trauma |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
Cornback Rattler |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11+ |
|
Coke Explosion |
Cathedral Mountain |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
Coconut Corner |
Cerberus Gendarme |
3 |
III 5.10+ |
|
Cock Smasher |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
I 5.10 |
|
Cindy Loohoo |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Cheyenne Social Club |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
Cherry Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex |
East Zion |
6 |
II 5.6/5.7 |
|
Chastity Crack |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
Central Pillar |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
Cave Dweller |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
Cave Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
5.7 |
|
Cat Hole |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.10 |
|
Brown/Mcafee |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
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Boring Crack |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10+ |
|
Blood Sport |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10+ |
|
Bits and Pieces |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
Birthday Bash |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.12 |
|
Better Safe Than Sorry |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
I 5.8 or II 5.10+ |
|
Ball and Chain |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.12d A0 |
|
Back and Black |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12 |
|
Ashtar Command |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.9 |
|
Another Roadside Attraction |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
9 |
IV 5.10 A1 |
|
Angels Hair |
Angels Landing |
11 |
V 5.13a |
|
420 Crack |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
10th Division |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
10 Percent |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.9 |
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