Trip Report
1982 Ski Traverse of RMNP
Tuesday December 6, 2016 7:51am
On my first day of graduate school I posted a notice on the student bulletin board enquiring if there were any rock climbers about – being that this was in the middle of Dallas, it was not a sure thing I would receive a positive response. To John Ferguson’s everlasting misfortune, he answered my advert and thus embarked on three plus decades of buffoonery and misadventure. We commenced our adventures with weekend climbing trips to Enchanted Rock in the central Texas hill country, where John impressed me with his calm mind on sketchy leads and I impressed him with my utter lack of good sense. If not exactly a dream team, at least we weren’t suicidally stupid. Having survived these initial shakedown cruises we endeavored to up the ante over spring break by ski traversing Rocky Mountain National Park from west to east.

Our adventure began in early March when a friend dropped us off at the Green Mountain trailhead and then high-tailed it out of there for warmer pastures. Two days of skiing up the Tonahutu drainage basin in fabulous snow conditions took us to the upper reaches of that drainage to near timberline below Sprague Pass. On the third day we crossed over the top of the divide and down the east side. As is typical of the Colorado Front Range, snow was deep and abundant on the west side of the continental divide and pretty marginal and sketchy on the east side. We skied over to Flat Top Mountain as much as we could, but resigned ourselves to carrying our skis where the wind had scoured the ridge free of snow. This same wind had deposited impressive patches of hoar frost on the windward side of rocks and boulders. As we marched across the top of the ridge we encountered a herd of Rocky Mountain big horn sheep just hanging out. It was probably 5 to 10 degrees above zero, the wind was steady at 20 to 25 mph, we were bundled up in survival mode, and these sheep were just hanging like it was all a pretty casual deal. Truly, humans are not the sharpest tool in the backcountry toolshed. These sheep followed us over the top of the continental divide, no doubt out of curiosity, until we started descending the east side of Flat Top Mountain towards timberline (probably getting too warm for them). Once in the trees there was enough snow to ski so long as we were mindful enough to avoid rocks and stumps, of which there were plenty. We descended without incident to the Bear Lake trail head where we relied on the kindness of strangers to give us a ride into Estes Park. While waiting for our friends to drive up from Denver to fetch us up, we were befriended by a young coed from CSU who thought we looked like more fun than the date she had arrived with. She tried to convince us that a good time could be had by all if we just took her under our wing and all went to a St Patrick’s Day green jello bathing suit wrestling party. Lives lived are influenced as much by the choices we don’t make as by the ones that we do, so one can only imagine what adventurous turns of fate John and I missed out on that day in a bar long ago, in a world long since passed.
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First night’s camp in Tonahutu Creek, RMNP.
First night’s camp in Tonahutu Creek, RMNP.
Credit: Nick Danger
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A young Space Cadet contemplating the time/space continuum.
A young Space Cadet contemplating the time/space continuum.
Credit: Nick Danger
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Skiing up Tonahutu Creek.
Skiing up Tonahutu Creek.
Credit: Nick Danger
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John skiing the fabulous snow in Tonahutu Creek on the western side of...
John skiing the fabulous snow in Tonahutu Creek on the western side of the divide, RMNP.
Credit: Nick Danger
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John approaching timberline below Sprague Pass, still on the western s...
John approaching timberline below Sprague Pass, still on the western side of the divide.
Credit: Nick Danger
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John ascending out of the upper reaches of the Tonahutu drainage on th...
John ascending out of the upper reaches of the Tonahutu drainage on the western side of the continental divide.
Credit: Nick Danger
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John leaving the good snow below timberline and approaching the wind-s...
John leaving the good snow below timberline and approaching the wind-swept crest of the continental divide.
Credit: Nick Danger
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Hoar frost formed on the windward side of rocks and boulders sometimes...
Hoar frost formed on the windward side of rocks and boulders sometimes was as thick as the snow on the ground.
Credit: Nick Danger
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Nick Danger hunkered down behind a boulder in a futile attempt to shel...
Nick Danger hunkered down behind a boulder in a futile attempt to shelter from the wind.
Credit: Nick Danger
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The local residents, whose house we were playing in.
The local residents, whose house we were playing in.
Credit: Nick Danger
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Postscript: This was the first of many backcountry ski adventures John and I were to have over the years, many of which involved the overnight comforts of the Tenth Mountain Trail Association huts. These ski trips augmented our more typical climbing adventures to RNMP, the high Sierras, and the Tetons. Of late, as the knees get crabbier, we have taken to paddling our boats gently down the stream, which has also been wonderful (you can carry far more beer in a canoe than you can on your back, dontcha know).

  Trip Report Views: 2,351
Nick Danger
About the Author
Nick Danger is a ice climber from Arvada, CO.

Comments
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Dec 6, 2016 - 08:16am PT
Skinny skis, maybe with metal edges, that's how it was done!
Rivendell Bombshelter four season tent. Small, light, and strong.
Nick Danger

Ice climber
Arvada, CO
Author's Reply  Dec 6, 2016 - 10:24am PT
Skinny Norwegian wooden skis with ligneston edges and cable bindings - fortunately not the hated Silvretta bindings. Lord but did I break a bunch of those Silvretta bindings in the 1970's.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Dec 6, 2016 - 10:45am PT
Tarbuster beat me to the skinny skis punch so I'll take a vowel and a
WOOT! for the classic 80's 'Space Cadet' look. TOTALLY WOOT!

Nick, how the hell do you break Silvrettas? Maybe I didn't fall hard
enough? ;-)

I think you can see them on my 207 K2 Holidays here...
Nick Danger

Ice climber
Arvada, CO
Author's Reply  Dec 6, 2016 - 12:26pm PT
Reilly,
The sharp bend that the cables made right under the front toe-piece would bend the cables back and forth over a very short distance of cable and the cables would break there all the time. My friends and I went through cables like they were popcorn. On at least two occasions we would break the toe-piece right under the hinge, probably from metal fatigue, although the mental fatigue in our ski technique could well have been a contributing factor. During the "Great lost in the wilderness tour of 1973" Tom Polaski, Kenny Marks, Frank the tree, and I broke 8 cables, one ski tip, one toe piece, two poles, and acquired bloody blisters on 7 of the 8 feet involved. If it weren't for duct tape we would STILL be in those mountains.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
  Dec 6, 2016 - 12:50pm PT
Best name ever, Nick Danger. Destined to be a outdoor superhero.
EdwardT

Trad climber
Retired
  Dec 6, 2016 - 01:02pm PT
Another "back in the day" adventure.

Thanks Nick.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Dec 7, 2016 - 04:19am PT
Awesomeness from the way back machine,
Thanks for taking us along Nick,
Cheers!
Alpinista55

Mountain climber
Portland, OR
  Dec 9, 2016 - 09:45am PT
Oh Yeah! Skinny Skis, metal edges, three-pin bindings, and an 80 pound load... what could go wrong? First day of an 80-day trip into the Alaska Range in 1980.

Great TR, Mr.Danger!

Nick Danger

Ice climber
Arvada, CO
Author's Reply  Dec 9, 2016 - 10:15am PT
Alpinista55,
I LOVE the "what could go wrong" part! Boy do I relate to that!
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