Trip Report
A Day on the Nose
Thursday September 5, 2013 1:33am
My stomach shrank and my feet felt weak. Beneath me was 3000 feet of air all the way to the ground. My only connection to this world lay in a rope running up above me and disappearing over a roof. The bright white granite apron of El Capitan splayed out beneath me, and the trees far beneath looked like small bushes. A gentle breeze blew, and I slowly twirled on my lifeline, getting a 360 degree view of the scenery around me. I paused, thinking now would be a good time to take a picture, but the intense exposure of my situation put only one thought in my mind: Up.

This is an abridged photo summary of Vinnie and my NIAD a little over a week ago. The much more verbose TR and many more pics are here: https://plus.google.com/116793708900066114376/posts/j1rFMbcg6eu

We started at 11 pm to let us (hopefully) finish with daylight. This was to keep the psyche high for the last few pitches. I think it worked out!

Getting ready to hit the trail and head up there
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About to start our journey @ 10:30pm
About to start our journey @ 10:30pm
Credit: septikus
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Start your engines!
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At the start of the Nose @ 11 pm
At the start of the Nose @ 11 pm
Credit: septikus
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Fastest time to top of Dolt yet: 4:24. We did two practice runs to Dolt and p19 to get the logistics out of the way a month before.
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Vinnie gearing up for his block on top of Dolt
Vinnie gearing up for his block on top of Dolt
Credit: septikus
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Video of Vinnie sticking it on King swing!

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Riding the wave in the Great Roof
Riding the wave in the Great Roof
Credit: septikus
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Me sitting @ camp 5 and Vinnie following. Photo credit to Marlin Thorm...
Me sitting @ camp 5 and Vinnie following. Photo credit to Marlin Thorman
Credit: septikus
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Vinnie on Changing Corners
Vinnie on Changing Corners
Credit: septikus
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Vinnie heading up Changing Corners. Photo credit to Marlin Thorman.
Vinnie heading up Changing Corners. Photo credit to Marlin Thorman.
Credit: septikus
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Heading up to the summit roofs
Heading up to the summit roofs
Credit: septikus
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Video of us at the top

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Classic shot of us in front of El Cap
Classic shot of us in front of El Cap
Credit: septikus
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We had a great time on our first full climb up the captain, and I think we'll be back for more...

  Trip Report Views: 2,893
septikus
About the Author
septikus is a trad climber from Bay Area, CA.

Comments
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
On the road.
  Sep 5, 2013 - 07:52am PT
First time up El Cap? You guys crushed it!
Delhi Dog

climber
Good Question...
  Sep 5, 2013 - 07:56am PT
Ditto what Mark said!

Excellent job and with those smiles it looks like you had a great time.

cheers
whitemeat

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
  Sep 5, 2013 - 10:25am PT
ran into you guys at the top when you did east buttreess! you guys crushed it! good send!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Sep 5, 2013 - 11:13am PT
Very nice, congratulations!
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
  Sep 5, 2013 - 11:15am PT
Impressive! Thanks for the TR.
Vinnie-

climber
San Francisco, CA
  Sep 5, 2013 - 01:57pm PT
It was pretty inspiring to see whitemeat and Jaysen on their way down from the Shield. Their stoke was contagious!
Jaysen

Big Wall climber
NYC
  Sep 7, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
F*#KING STOKEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!
Cant wait to have a niad go when im back in the valley, we'll see if i can match up with you young guns! ha haaa

After finishing the nose, i know you are already making new bigwall missions, maby some bigwall camping eah?

CRUSH

-jay
10b4me

Social climber
Lida Junction
  Sep 7, 2013 - 04:22pm PT
what Mark said
cmclean

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
  Sep 9, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
Congrats Leslie and Vinnie! It was cool to meet you in Dogpatch. Psyched to see you cruised the Nose! You guys were way too chipper on the summit. ;-)
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