Trip Report
A Mini Geezer Fest! 3 Old Friends On Conness.
Tuesday September 20, 2016 12:46pm
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It all started back in early May, when I reconnected with Mel Johnston and John Rich at Smith Rock.
I've known both of these guys for 40 years, since I was about 16 years old!
John and I climbed Cathedral Peak together back in June, and had chatted about doing something else this season.
In August he asked about doing something further south, but I only had a small window in September before taking my daughter to UC Santa Barbara for school. So we settled on the West Ridge of Mt. Conness. Mel came along from Oregon to do a number of other things with John, so the September challenge was on!
I had been in from the East three times before, for the Harding Route and the North Ridge. I could be persuaded, but as I told John, I didn't want to "climb the whole damn mountain to get to the base!"
So we all agreed to pack it in to Upper Young Lakes and bivy before heading up to the ridge proper.
We had a little bit of everything! Clouds, sun, rain, heat, hail, snow, snail and WIND!!
But old guys are stubborn, and don't want to repeat long approaches, so we weren't easily dissuaded and endeavored to persevere!
Once again I apologize for the cell phone TR, but as one of my old Master Sergeants used to say "You brought what you brung gimper!"
Back in a bit with a slew of photos!
survival
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About the Author survival is a big wall climber from A Token of My Extreme. |
Comments
survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Sep 20, 2016 - 01:29pm PT
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Sep 20, 2016 - 01:32pm PT
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Fun! A good trip report makes me wish I were there doing the route. This is a good trip report. Thanks.
John
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Sep 20, 2016 - 01:58pm PT
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Thanks JEl!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Sep 20, 2016 - 02:11pm PT
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Neat stuff, Bruce! Did you get your bear canister for this?
Any bears???
Oh, and what stove did you eventually use?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Sep 20, 2016 - 02:25pm PT
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Steve! Yes, we had 2 bear canisters between 3 of us. John has one, and they're super easy to rent at the wilderness permit office.
We used John's MSR stove. I didn't buy a jetboil yet.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 20, 2016 - 02:47pm PT
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What a disreputable crew! I wish I'd been along -- I'd have fit right in.
Say hi to Mel for me. It was great to meet him at Smith.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Sep 20, 2016 - 03:11pm PT
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Ghost, you weren't invited because your chili's outperformed mine this year. One of the fat headed horses got to my big Ghost chili plant just when it started to kick ass. Par for the season...
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Sep 20, 2016 - 03:13pm PT
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Great pics, on the list.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Sep 20, 2016 - 03:20pm PT
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Getting close!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Sep 20, 2016 - 04:38pm PT
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Awesomeness abounds Bruce!!
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
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Sep 20, 2016 - 05:25pm PT
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Wow! Just wow
Susan
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Sep 20, 2016 - 05:48pm PT
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Random shot!! Look what a cool Deadhead from Supertopo sent me!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Sep 20, 2016 - 07:59pm PT
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Garcias
Great photos, totally envious.
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Sep 20, 2016 - 11:09pm PT
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Clouds, sun, rain, heat, hail, snow, snail and WIND!!
Nice work boys!
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Sep 21, 2016 - 10:37am PT
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It's great to see old friends climbing together!
Mid-September - the start of the iffy weather season. It can be perfect or it can be rainy and cold. Glad you were prepared.
Thanks for the lovely photos.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Sep 21, 2016 - 12:37pm PT
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Bravo!
The heck with the bears...
How many beer canisters did you have?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Sep 21, 2016 - 01:13pm PT
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Thanks everyone!! Steelmonkey, none. Coming from 1,000ft elevation and being out of shape I tried to keep the weight down...
I carried the damn beret up there though, you better believe I was putting it on!
The wind was howling and moaning out of this notch!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Sep 21, 2016 - 01:17pm PT
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 21, 2016 - 01:17pm PT
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I understand the out of shape bit but please explain this concept of
having fun while climbing lung busting peaks? Did I miss that memo?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Sep 21, 2016 - 01:27pm PT
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Who said it was fun? Hahahahaaaa!!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 21, 2016 - 01:31pm PT
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My bad, I guess those grins were really grimaces? Carry on!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 21, 2016 - 02:04pm PT
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Reilly, you sport weenie, if you had ever done anything other than clip bolts in a gym, you'd know the basic underlying principle of all other forms of climbing:
It don't have to be fun, to be fun!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Sep 21, 2016 - 05:39pm PT
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Nice! Enjoying the mountains with good friends. What's not to like. Thanks for putting this up.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Sep 21, 2016 - 06:08pm PT
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Full value!!!
That's fun, friends, free-climbs.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Sep 22, 2016 - 06:08pm PT
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right on survival. great time of year to tag that peak
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Sep 22, 2016 - 07:15pm PT
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Sep 22, 2016 - 09:03pm PT
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Survival! Another Gneiss & Granitic trip report.
I do really enjoy your trip reports & there have not been nearly enough of them lately. Please apply yourself to taking more trips.
Looks like a fine adventure with old friends too!
(Any prehistoric women up there?)
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Sep 23, 2016 - 03:37am PT
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A geezer in a green beret on Conness. Just what I was looking for in a TR!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Sep 23, 2016 - 08:15am PT
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Thanks guys!
Fritz, only one sighting. I'll post it up in a minute.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Sep 24, 2016 - 12:51pm PT
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Nicely done!
Conness was on my list this summer, but it didn't happen.
Somehow, sparkling Domes with short approaches always took priority!
Maybe next year.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Sep 24, 2016 - 05:34pm PT
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Nice! I haven't been there in a while, but Conness is one of my favorites. It's always nice to be in beautiful places with old friends.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Sep 26, 2016 - 11:38am PT
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Thanks for the support everyone!
It's good to know that us geezers, gals, kids, sport weenies, posers and part timers of all stripes can get noticed here in our own little online mountain magazine!
So many of these pictures are much better after clicking to see the enlarged version. I didn't realize that cell phone pix would get that much larger! Some are not great, from trying to zoom too far. But I have decided it's worth posting a few more. Hope you enjoy!
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melski
Trad climber
bytheriver
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Sep 26, 2016 - 02:19pm PT
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The dream lives. I think we broke a few records on this trip buddy. .hi ghost ..thanks for the words of wisdom.you've been there .this trip will help me get through till next season .we'll all be comparing lists. Chow for now
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melski
Trad climber
bytheriver
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Sep 26, 2016 - 03:24pm PT
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Ps. Your timing on the trigger was perfect..trouble ahead trouble behind. Guess you know that notion just crossed my mind..
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Sep 26, 2016 - 03:29pm PT
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Fantastic TR Survival. In the SuperTopo Climbing News email for sure!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Sep 27, 2016 - 08:13am PT
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Thanks Fet!
Melski!!! So good to be up high with you, as always. FLASHBACK to spending the night in a snowstorm on top of Monkeyface, in 1977, just because we could.
Good times!
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
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Sep 27, 2016 - 08:48am PT
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Gee...it keeps getting better. !!!
Susan
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Alpinista55
Mountain climber
Portland, OR
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Thanks for the High Sierra awesomness, Bruce. Looks like a fantastic trip!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Thanks for sharing. Geezer Patrol or Geezer attack would be a great name for a new route.... :)
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Oct 4, 2016 - 06:00am PT
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Thanks very much guys and gals.
Wow, a note from one of my original heroes (Jay alpinista) and a current one (V-man)!
Hey Jay, maybe you can do a TR on your high country backpacking trip this summer! Thanks for taking us sailing!!
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Fun stuff!
I did my own geezer trip a couple summers ago on Conness.
Glad we too opted for the Young Lakes approach as it added a whole lot more time to just be in the area.
That lake is a bust for fishing though:-)
What's the story with the snake?
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