Trip Report
A Short Walk With Lt. Levi
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Monday November 30, 2015 12:33pm
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Forgive me Gawd of Trad Climbing, for I have gone to the plastic gym.
I discovered that the angle in the gym is pretty relentless, so the pump comes quickly!! But other than that it's fairly soft compared to the outdoor world. Most of us already know this.
But, it's cool, cuz I got worked over pretty hard and I met Lt. Levi.
It took little time for him to invite me to Yosemite in November, where I know forever that the sh#t is real. Luckily he didn't intend to kill me.
I gave him spicy jerky to keep him calm.
Strange though, how the cracks have gotten steeper and harder than they were 30 years ago..........
I met some really cool people, and a wonderful time!! We only did 5 pitches, but it was still great.
Ejesta, Stone Groove, and Reeds Direct, that's it. BITD that was a warm up. Not so easy anymore.
I know the cracks of Ejesta existed 40 years ago, I just didn't know it. I was too busy with famous cracks next door like Reeds Direct, Lunatic Fringe and Stone Groove. Thanks Lt. Levi for introducing me to a really cool route I never knew about.
Not bad for November eh?
survival
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About the Author
survival is a big wall climber from A Token of My Extreme. |
Comments
Larry Nelson
Social climber
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Nov 30, 2015 - 12:37pm PT
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Very nice.
Old timers can still sometimes rock.
Good job Lt. Levi
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Nov 30, 2015 - 12:41pm PT
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Excellent! Thanks for both the memories and the inspiration, although you look way too young to have reached my stage of fossilization.
John
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 30, 2015 - 12:47pm PT
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There's a pretty spectacular traverse at the top of the second pitch of Ejesta!
Winter! She comes!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 30, 2015 - 12:54pm PT
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JEL, that's not me looking like a youngster, it's Lt. Levi!!
In about 79 I cranked off Stone Groove, onsight, no problem.
Not so good this time, even seconding!!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Nov 30, 2015 - 12:58pm PT
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TFPU
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 30, 2015 - 01:10pm PT
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Good for you ground pounders! I did the direct on UPS today (wink).
Stone Groove - totally sandbagged 10a unless you wear a smearing shoe
on the left foot and an edgeing shoe on the right.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Nov 30, 2015 - 05:08pm PT
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Survival: Good work getting up Reed's Direct. When I climbed it back in 1978, it was only 5.9 (for the first two leads) & I was climbing a lot, but I recall being very tired by the top of the 2nd lead & the 3rd lead wasn't in the cards.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 30, 2015 - 01:14pm PT
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Fun in the sun on Reeds Direct.
One of the most famous cracks in the world?
Go Lt. Dan, GO!!!
Neighbors!!
I LOVE this one!! SUATPPJ!!
My Christmas present to Jefe. I brought the last photo early this year.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 30, 2015 - 02:30pm PT
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Tad!! First game for Placer JV boys is 5PM on Thurs, vs Central Valley, at Foothill.
Apparently the phone number I have for you is no good anymore?
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EU
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Nov 30, 2015 - 02:59pm PT
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Hi Survival! Thanks for the trip report, what a fun time we had. Reed's Direct 2nd pitch was the single hardest pitch I've ever done, bar none. Freaking hilarious. Stoked to go out again!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Nov 30, 2015 - 03:19pm PT
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Great pics! What a winter crag!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Nov 30, 2015 - 03:29pm PT
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Great pics. Way to put the F in fun. Thanks for the share Survival!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 30, 2015 - 03:39pm PT
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Nice Survival.....Reeds area is great. Also the home of a great OW....Stepping Out and the ultra classic Five & Dime which is one of the best pitches in Yosemite along with Lunatic Fringe.
Looks like you're getting smart and hitching your wagon to a young stallion. Wait till Spring and then draft his wake up the Steck Salathe!!!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 30, 2015 - 03:43pm PT
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Go get it... Stone Grove 10a hahahahahaha
Thanks for belaying that Lt.
Whats the modern, you know MP grade for P2 Reeds?
P3?.... that doesn't exist!!!
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Nov 30, 2015 - 03:45pm PT
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nice pictures. thanks for sharing.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 30, 2015 - 04:39pm PT
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Stone Groove is not 10a!! I recall it being 10b even BITD....
Seemed harder than that now. Heh.
Reeds 2nd pitch is 5.9d+
I hereby award myself the distinguished Elderly Loser Climber Medal!!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Nov 30, 2015 - 05:49pm PT
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Right on Bruce.
There's something about a Yosemite classic- so fun. I got some recently too.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 30, 2015 - 05:53pm PT
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Stoner Groove, when you get to the bulge where the crack thins there is a foothold down and right....guys never see it.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 30, 2015 - 10:06pm PT
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Lt. Levi is pleased I flew his flag a little bit.
Thanks for the kind comments everyone. I'm happy to post up something besides evil and guns and politics.
Speaking of Guns, Amber played her first "official" game as a senior and a varsity starter tonight. Roseville made a good run in the 4th quarter, and cut Placer's lead down to 4 points, but Amber hit a couple big 3's and put an end to that nonsense. BANG!! BANG!!
71-59, Placer!!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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melski
Trad climber
bytheriver
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GO<<GO<< Amber,,nice shots as always wimpy ,[I can call you that now after talking to bugs and getting the math,,,your ten years my youth, tried to sign up for S,S, today,,they said go ask yo mama,, Keep it coming,,bro,
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Excellent as always Bruce. Great pictures.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Rowdical!!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Bruce, awesomeness is up on you!!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Dec 2, 2015 - 09:20pm PT
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Thanks everyone.
Melski!! I'm so glad that you seem to always spot these TRs. I miss you man. Wish we could get together for a route, or some jams!!
Tad, I'm looking forward to seeing you tomorrow!!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Yeah, Ejesta is super fun! Glad to see you having fun out there. It will be more fun once the fixed lines are up and you don't have to lead any of it! There is usually a swing set up on top of the Reeds pinnacle so that you can take photos of all your friends top roping! Come in a few weeks!
Woot!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Dec 3, 2015 - 08:26am PT
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I'll be there!
Swing set, wheeeeee!!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Seriously, if you will have time to go to the valley for some low key cragging, let me know! Would be happy to do stuff together or in a larger group. That way you can make sure I am as annoying as I appear on the internet. :)
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Dec 3, 2015 - 10:16am PT
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Thanks V!!
I definitely hope to climb with you sometime.
You can even throw Burchey in so we can do something besides remote control fencing on the innerweb.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Sweet. Love Reeds and haven't been back in four years or so.
Two new'ish Gable routes that should be on radar for people who love Reeds: the 7 or 8-pitch extension above Lunatic Fringe, and Angry Natives. Both awesome, both doable in winter!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Dec 3, 2015 - 11:12pm PT
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How hard are they?
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melski
Trad climber
bytheriver
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Dam You make me wont to SUFFER,,Out to the backer ladder,,,1 2 sh#t,,OK<<OK<< lets stay in the grouve,,the grinch says just say when tocome to the farm for some gammin,,[ on your way to C,O.R.
]moms drive by]]love ya bro,,melski,,
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Missed this until now.
Big fun, for sure. (And it's nice to see another Elderly Loser Climber medal awarded. I was getting lonely.)
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Dec 5, 2015 - 09:41pm PT
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Yes!!!
Thanks Tad. And thanks for coming to those games. I'm so glad you got to see a couple good ones!!
The guys are so stoked to be walking around showing off their champion shirts!
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Right on, survival!
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