Trip Report
A Trip to Castle and City of Rocks Idaho
Monday June 4, 2012 4:47pm
For a resident of Boise, Idaho the closest world class crags are Castle Rocks and City of Rocks near Almo, Idaho. This being my eighth trip to the area, I've decided that Castle Rocks and City of Rocks is the best cragging destination in the universe. If you haven't been out this way yet, then you must put it at the top of your list.

The climbing in the City/Castles is spectacular. Think JTree only taller (100-300 feet), really solid rock, higher elevation (5000-7000 feet), and interesting color schemes (yellow, red, gold, grey base color). If you like cracks, then both the City and Castle have em, but the City has lots of them. One of my favorites is the semi obscure New Pioneers which rarely sees a line. Norwegian onsighted the classic Crack of Dung last year. If you like sport climbs of the Smith Rock variety (ie bolted in 80s and runout by modern standards) the City will surely wet your appetite.

Castle Rocks State Park became open to climbers in 2003. Emphasis is placed in Castle on creating safe enjoyable climbing. Hence the routes are well bolted when cracks are unavailable.

This particular trip had two main emphasis for us. First, my parents (who dont climb) rented a yurt in Pinyon Campground and brought my nephews along for a family camping trip. Secondly, to climb as much as time would allow.

We arrived late tuesday night and set up camp on BLM land (free). After an early rise we set out to climb Sinocranium, a five pitch dome climb with a steep 5.8 pitch in the middle. The climb went smooth and we arrived at the yurt on time...parents like punctuality.

top left corner top right corner
Photo by Andy Laakman &#40;Mountain Project&#41; <br/>
Steinfell's Dome is...
Photo by Andy Laakman (Mountain Project)
Steinfell's Dome is formation on right.
Credit: Andy Laakman
bottom left corner bottom right corner

The climb was not my favorite, but hey, it climbs Steinfell's Dome. The route is a quintessential Kevin Pogue "Everyman" route. Pogue's routes sport massive amounts of bolts and are very popular. If every climb were bolted this much, I may need to complain and start a thread on ST, but, after reflecting on this issue, Ive come to the conclusion that there should be trade routes like these. I felt, at times, cheated out of the full experience on the climb as I never really felt like I was on lead. Still, it is good to have a few totally safe climbs for the masses. Luckily, most routes in City and Castle will make you have a lead head.

We finished the day in much the same way that we would every evening...Smores baby. The first night we ate all the traditional smores. Then, we got creative and used cookies (like double fudge chunck cookies) to endcap our mallows. The young nephews liked this a lot.

Over the next four days we would hike with family in the morning, climb in the heat of the day (when any sensible climbers would be taking a siesta), and meet up for dinner and smores. All told, we did twelve pitches in five days that were jampacked with family obligations. The highlights included Between Heaven and Earth, Eye Full Tower, and parent viewing ascents of Mystery Bolter and Too Much Fun. I cant rave about Eye Full Tower's second pitch enough. Juggy 5.7 on a steep improbable looking arete it feels like all of those hero pitches reserved for hardmen.

When he saw my wife up high on Mystery Bolter, my Dad exclaimed "What a woman." Around the corner, Dad watched me put the rope up on Too Much Fun, steep juggy 5.8. It was a truely beautiful experience.

More pictures? Our camera broke. This got me thinking. Do we climb for the pictures that we see ourselves in or do we climb for the actual experience. Its like living as if you were in a movie and you were the star. Does this whole ST thing add or take away from the experience. Without ST we would be forced to experience climbing the way many of us used to. It was deeply personal and that was the only motivation.

  Trip Report Views: 2,798
ImplicitD
About the Author
ImplicitD is a trad climber from Boise.

Comments
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jun 4, 2012 - 04:55pm PT
Sounds good. I get your point.

But for those of us who weren't living your experience, yeah, pictures are helpful.

Either way, keep getting after it!

Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jun 5, 2012 - 04:31pm PT
Thanks Implicit,
I love both the city and Castle.
I still climb for personal motivation, but like to share in others experiences.

Best
-e
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
  Jun 5, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
sir thanks for
interrupting the pissy mood here
on supertopo.
the political shite is all over these e-walls.

nice to see you travelling and
clawing still.

same here.
we should wrestle a mountain together again, some day.

edit,
quit pimpin my chariot, dude.
ever since you've begun exploiting my exploits,
the chicks have benn calling me all hours of the day and night.
my wife smells another ocean nearby.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
  Jun 5, 2012 - 04:58pm PT
i went down to the desert
on some pills with no name.
the doctor couldn't tell me
what they were!
man aint that a shame.
every body needs something
that's gonna take away the pain,

emily.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
ImplicitD

Trad climber
Boise
Author's Reply  Jun 6, 2012 - 11:57am PT
That is our classic photo Norweegian.
kpinwalla2

Social climber
WA
  Jun 7, 2012 - 06:10pm PT
"The route is a quintessential Kevin Pogue "Everyman" route. Pogue's routes sport massive amounts of bolts and are very popular. If every climb were bolted this much, I may need to complain and start a thread on ST, but, after reflecting on this issue, Ive come to the conclusion that there should be trade routes like these."

Thank you - I feel so much more at ease... and I used to complain about routes being "run out". Better to just bolt 'em how you like 'em and not complain....
labrat

Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
  Jun 6, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
Your routes are great Mr KP! I've enjoyed them in Nevada (Red Rocks) and Idaho and look forward to doing them in a few more states....

kpinwalla2

Social climber
WA
  Jun 7, 2012 - 06:11pm PT
Thanks Labrat!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Jun 7, 2012 - 06:24pm PT
Cool Man!!

Nice to see you getting out, and taking a break from the kids....

See you soon, maybe with blonde #2?
moacman

Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
  Jun 7, 2012 - 06:30pm PT
Great report and thanx for sharing..

Stevo
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