Trip Report
A Weekend in the San Bernardino Mountains (TR)
Tuesday August 14, 2012 1:10pm
“Man It’s sweatin balls down here lets head up to Holcomb Valley in Big Bear for some cooler climbing”
Sounds good to me I said to my buddy Sean.
Holcomb Valley I hear can be a zoo on some weekends do to its ease of access and wide range of routes. I had not been in a few years and figured it would be good to get more comfortable leading on a few of the many sport routes. I am currently trying to learn trad and feel like I need to get a better lead head. Sometimes I think I should just trad climb and get used to knowing I may fall on gear instead of bolts. I’m learning leading in general and sometimes feel like I need to get on some easier routes like 5.5 to 5.7 at first to practice placing gear.
Anyways, we decided to head up there Saturday morning and check out Castle Rock on the way. This is a really cool pinnacle that stands about 150” high with some quality routes of various grades. My buddy Sean took of on the 1st lead of the day on.


“The Sphynx”, great features on this rock.
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The clouds approached quickly, it started to come down pretty good by the time he started rapping back down .
Guess we should have checked the forecast.
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We waited under some rocks in hopes of getting some more climbs in. It stopped, but the rock was too wet and wouldn’t be dry for a while so we headed down towards Running Springs with a local friend who knew some other local crags


Local Matt, on “Twin Cracks” . This was a really good beginner 5.8 climb. Fun with plenty of placements and good rests.
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Is 5.8 even considered beginner for trad? I just ask because there are some 5.8s I don’t really feel ready for mentally, but I know I can climb that grade no problem. Guess I’m realizing how much more mental trad climbing is. As was the case, I was into the climbing and did not think to ask these guys to get some pictures of me, but here is Matt and Sean having some fun at School Rock .
Fun little crag with some stout ratings on the face climbing.
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Saturday ended on a good note and we headed back to Matts place for some R&R.


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Lake Arrowhead
Nothing like burnin’ one and tossing back a cocktail or two after a fun day of climbing with good people.

I thought this was a really cool idea for the stair railing.
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Matt was going to do a round trip 22 mile hike up San Gorgonio mountain the next day so so he did not join us for climbing at Keller Peak. Looks like a toughy, but I’m not into big hikes so perhaps it would not be so bad for some of you more conditioned Supertopians.


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San Gorgonio. Pic taken from Mountain Project.

For us, Keller Peak was our destination since it appeared there would be more rain near Big Bear and Holcomb would probably be full of puddles on the drive out there and be a zoo.

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Hungover Wall at Keller Peak area. Some hard routes on this wall. Great shade for belaying. It was just Sean and I climbing so couldn’t get any climbing pics unless we went for the one handed belay.

Here are a few more of Hungover Wall area and surrounding Keller Peak.
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Great views
Plenty of bouldering as well. Keller Peak lookout and boulders abound.

So that was our weekend, I finally got a TR posted on ST. For anyone who doesn’t want to deal with the crowds at Holcomb I would suggest exploring some of the other local crags in San Bernardino mountains. Castle Rock, School Rock, Arrowhead Pinnacles, Scott Rock, etc.. Lots of fun stuff up there and great bouldering everywhere.
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  Trip Report Views: 2,185
dirt claud
About the Author
Dirt Claud is beginning trad climber trying his best to give back to this world as much as it has given him and enjoying it as much as possible.

Comments
jahil

Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
  Aug 14, 2012 - 01:26pm PT
Got to put that on the list of places to go to! Hungover wall looks rad.

steve
neversummer

climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
  Aug 14, 2012 - 01:30pm PT
Good stuff...i need to get up there, and you were wise on bailing on the san g hike i did that via vivian creek a few times and its brutal.
10b4me

Social climber
Lida Junction
  Aug 14, 2012 - 03:14pm PT
Castle Rock is a fun place to climb as is Holcomb. If it's raining though the road to Holcomb can be a mud puddle.
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
Author's Reply  Aug 14, 2012 - 03:29pm PT
Yeah, just a little rain messes up that road. But I think Keller Peak is my new favorite place. Awesome camping and great rock with shade everywhere.
Matt was trippin on having enough time to make the hike to San G and he's been getting into Mountaineering, so I know that thing would have kicked my ass. I guess Buttler peak and some other peaks around there are good too he says.

The rock reminded me of a toned down Joshua Tree. Jacked up my hands not using tape on those cracks. Super gritty though.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Aug 14, 2012 - 03:23pm PT
Nice Looking Stone!!!
Jonnnyyyzzz

Trad climber
San Diego,CA
  Aug 15, 2012 - 04:08am PT
Way to Go Dirt Clod. Next time slap the GriGri on and take those one handed belay butt shots.
When I get back next month we'll take a trip out to Tahquitz for a few days to get your Trad Head screwed on straight. I've seen you climb and your good to go it won't take you long to break through.
ChaseTheRabbit

Sport climber
El Cajon, Ca
  Aug 27, 2012 - 07:06pm PT
Take me. Haha looks great. I wanna begin learning trad but i eanna be at least a solid 5.11 lrader before. That way ill feel more confident at climbing which will hopefully help with placements. I dnt wanna be all shaky. Hmu if you go again. Im always down for cocktails n climbin haha
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Aug 27, 2012 - 07:32pm PT
Nice looking area and nice TR. Thanks. There's nothing wrong with climbing climbs where you know you can't or aren't going to fall, and 5.8 can easily be iffy in that regards, at least for most climbers. I know how one gets a feeling for the rock and what works and when you're close to your own limit: practice, experience and more practice. I wonder though, how do we get a feeling for what trad protection pieces would hold. I think you almost need to do a little aid climbing to get that feeling. Of course being mechanically inclined helps a lot.

Darwin
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Aug 27, 2012 - 10:01pm PT
I'll keep this on the radar when I move down to LA. I've got family in Big Bear area. Thanks for the share!
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
  Aug 27, 2012 - 10:43pm PT
I've only skied Keller a couple of times.

looks like I need to go back in dryer climes
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