Trip Report
A lass solo on Zodiac
Monday November 21, 2016 4:00am
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Before I started my Partner said:
When you finally start climbing you’ll understand that there is just you and your route and on the summit, you will be a different person. Not because the route will change you but because it will show you your unknown face.
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Last year we climbed Pacific Ocean Wall together. I learned my lesson
And trained a lot at home in Scotland.
There were so many things that “I’ve never done before” but I was 100% focused on my goal and nothing could stop me.
I carried water couple days before and met guys fixing on Tangerine Trip. The day before I started climbing I carried all my stuff to the base and found a present – guys from Trip left some more water for me, thank you, it was very nice!!
I blasted on 21st of October.
So..off I go
I did first pitch of Zodiac last year (for training) so I felt quite confident on it this year.
I climbed three pitches on that day. Everything was perfect, except my bed. I wasn’t able to put my portaledge up. It was so easy the day before, at the base, when I wasn’t tired.
I didn’t know what to do, it was very late (after midnight). After an hour, I gave up and extended daisy, sit down on the ledge and shaking waited for the morning.
Climbing, rock, weather, atmosphere and even my psyche, everything was great…except my portaledge. After day two, again, I was sleeping on a ledge. The base of the Black Tower was too steep so I abseiled to the Dead End Ledge. It was more horizontal but so narrow!! I fixed myself on couple bolts, glued my back to the wall behind me and try to sleep without moving on my side.
Luckily on the top of the Black Tower pitch I met two nice sport climbers who helped me with my unfortunate bed. (Couple days ago I found out that they were Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher .
16th of October they climbed Zodiac – 3rd free ascent – Contratulations!!!)
What a relief. I slept for 12hours although it was storm at night and in the morning.
When packing my haul bags, before I start climbing next day, I took a can of fruits from the bottom bag and because it was just a single can I didn’t know what to do with it (I needed two hands to jumar up to the belay) so I just put it in to my pocket and very quick forgot about it. That day I was climbing in the most beautiful part of the route – White Circle (with the can of fruits in my jacket).
I kept my portaledge up until last pitches, fixed corners with ductape to make sure nothing split during hauling. From that point all belays were hanging belays so no way to sleep without proper bed until the Peanut Ledge.
Climbing solo is so busy. I didn’t take many pictures, you may laugh but there was no time! Usually I called my days late at night.
Many people passed me on my route. Guys who did Zodiac in 24hours (2 teams, sorry I don’t remember your names, but it was very nice to meet you!!) warned me about storm (thanks guys!!) coming the next day – my 7th and last day of climbing. I wasn’t aware how many days I had already spent there, I was just pushing up, do my duties, move after move, lead, clean, haul, lead, clean haul…
I had three pitches left.
On my last day, I woke up earlier and did famous ‘no gear between me and belay’ pitch (the pitch above Peanut Ledge). It started raining at about 11:00am. I was hauling in a storm. Sort my gear and prepare to lead last two pitches. I heard the Voice from Falcon’s Nest –
‘Magda!! Do you think you can do it?’ ‘
‘I don’t know, but I’ll try!’.
It wasn’t an answer which the Voice was expecting. But what could I say.. I never climbed in a storm, or even in a rain!!
Second last pitch was beautiful and that crack in slabs at the beginning!!
It was still raining. Summit was so close and yet so far away. Water was coming through my sleeves when I was reaching high and I was soaking despite having rainproofs on. It was very cold, I topped out just after dusk and run away from the summit to Camp4.
Strom didn’t stop the next day too. I was very tired – definitely not in a condition to go back to the summit and get my bags down.
Despite the rain two nice guys who I met in the Caf did it for me and retrieved my stuff (thank you guys!!!). I had a flight booked for the next day so there was no time left.
It was my first solo in my life. I was climbing for 7 days and I didn’t fix . For belaying I used Silent Partner, it’s quite heavy but it caught my falls so…
Using hammer is not my strongest point, I did it four times on the whole route. When I was cleaning, one of the pitons jumped out without even hitting it, just by pulling the rope, yes, it was a bomber ;)
I want to say ‘thank you’ to everyone who trusted I can do it and to everyone I met on the route for all the help and good words.
Oh..and my Partner was right, Zodiac shown me my unknown, dirty face!
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Trip Report Views: 12,340 |
Comments
Late Starter
Social climber
NA
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Nov 21, 2016 - 04:59am PT
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Nice Report! I only wish I was as brave as you!!
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Nov 21, 2016 - 05:07am PT
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What's 10 cm.... like 2.5 miles? Well done!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Nov 21, 2016 - 05:28am PT
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Way to go for it!
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couchmaster
climber
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Nov 21, 2016 - 05:46am PT
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Wow! You have plenty of the right stuff! Great job and super trip report, thank you for sharing!
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Nov 21, 2016 - 06:08am PT
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good job.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 21, 2016 - 06:19am PT
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Nice work!
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EdwardT
Trad climber
Retired
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Nov 21, 2016 - 06:40am PT
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Nice TR.
You tell a good story.
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nah000
climber
now/here
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Nov 21, 2016 - 06:51am PT
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sweet.
thank you.
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The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
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Nov 21, 2016 - 07:06am PT
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Amazing solo effort, congratulations!
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Watermann2
Mountain climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Nov 21, 2016 - 07:08am PT
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Good morning Miss Magda, what else to say of his amazing climb on ZODIAC:
CHAPEAUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Many Greetings.
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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Nov 21, 2016 - 07:09am PT
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Good job even with the poor sleeping accommodations.
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Bald Eagle
Trad climber
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Nov 21, 2016 - 07:10am PT
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Fantastic effort, well done you and top work Magda! :-)
Cheers
Dave
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Nov 21, 2016 - 07:16am PT
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You are one tough cookie. I am inspired!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 21, 2016 - 07:15am PT
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Nice report....great job, congrats!
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Nov 21, 2016 - 07:27am PT
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Fantastic report.
But when you mentioned your home in Scotland and never having climbed in the rain I became suspicious ;)
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magda_o
Big Wall climber
Aberdeen(Scotland)/Tychy(Poland)
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Author's Reply
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Nov 21, 2016 - 07:41am PT
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Thank you guys!
and mtnyoung, hope that dispel all your suspicions ;)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 21, 2016 - 07:51am PT
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Dzień dobry, Magda! :-) Very nice TR!
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Nov 21, 2016 - 07:58am PT
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Magda, thank you for sharing the story of your vertical journey. Congratulations to you on your solo ascent.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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Nov 21, 2016 - 09:27am PT
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Best TR on the taco in awhile. TFPU! and nice climb!
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Nov 21, 2016 - 09:46am PT
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Awesome Magda.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Nov 21, 2016 - 10:01am PT
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Most excellent!!
Thanks for sharing, and congratulations!
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Nov 21, 2016 - 10:04am PT
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...and mtnyoung, hope that dispel all your suspicions ;)
Oh, duh. It goes straight to snow there doesn't it?
Fantastic report and (now) total credibility.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Nov 21, 2016 - 10:15am PT
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Magda, are you from Poland? Well it is a Polish name I think. Doesn't matter, I just wanted to bump your excellent TR.
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canyoncat
Social climber
SoCal
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Nov 21, 2016 - 10:27am PT
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#ImWithHER :)
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Nov 21, 2016 - 10:36am PT
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Great job! The serious photo at the start is very amusing!
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Nov 21, 2016 - 10:36am PT
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Top notch report on a job well done.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Nov 21, 2016 - 10:42am PT
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Nice! Two routes I've actually done (counting the PO). Not that you had much choice, but way to power through the upper pitches in a storm. I always wondering how grim it would be climbing those in poor weather since you're no longer sheltered from above. Hopefully I'll never find out.
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hamersorethumb
Trad climber
Menlo Park, CA
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Nov 21, 2016 - 01:18pm PT
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wow, love it, thank you so much
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Nov 21, 2016 - 01:27pm PT
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Looks like a lot of fun and a lot of work. Congrats for getting up in time to not miss your flight!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Nov 21, 2016 - 02:45pm PT
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Way to go!
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i-b-goB
Big Wall climber
Nutty
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Nov 21, 2016 - 03:13pm PT
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Nice Lasso magda_o !
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Nov 21, 2016 - 04:39pm PT
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Super inspiring. Thanks for the great story, photos and write up. Congrats on a gnarly send. Keep climbing hard and keep writing trip reports!
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Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
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Nov 21, 2016 - 04:48pm PT
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Super awesome lass!
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Edge
Trad climber
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Nov 21, 2016 - 07:37pm PT
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Respect!
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Nov 21, 2016 - 11:05pm PT
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Way to get after it!
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Prod
Trad climber
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Nov 22, 2016 - 06:44am PT
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Nice work
Prod.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Nov 22, 2016 - 07:04am PT
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Awesome! Badazz!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Nov 22, 2016 - 09:51am PT
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TFPU - great report.
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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Nov 22, 2016 - 09:57am PT
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Wonderful report Magda, just an all round wonderful story. Also, I especially like the thought bubbles on your photos - most amusing. Why do I suspect that your life will be filled with much adventure and daring-do.
cheers
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Nov 24, 2016 - 01:17pm PT
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Nicely done!
We got rained on for those last 2 pitches as well, though not as epically as your shot shows. The last pitch in particular had "BAD IDEA!" going through my head as the water coursed over my hands for the first few easy free moves to get up to a spot for a yellow alien.
I setup my ledge on a tree by the summit, and my partner hung his fly over this dry-ish sleeping spot from a branch. It seemed less sketchy than doing the rappels in the rain.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Nov 23, 2016 - 12:52pm PT
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Great. I love the pictures. Some of that rock is super good. I wonder how it looks these days, as far as pin scars from so many ascents.
Good on ya for hanging in there during the storm. You got a taste of Alpine...suffering. You didn't bail. You did it, all by yourself.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Nov 22, 2016 - 01:44pm PT
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full value!
Lol with mtnyoung on Scottish 'rain'. :)
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GZ
Trad climber
Pasadena, CA
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Nov 24, 2016 - 08:42am PT
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You're a better woman than me. Congrats on one tough climb!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Nov 24, 2016 - 09:17am PT
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Congratulations. Great climbing. Nice writeup. Put a smile on my face.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Nov 24, 2016 - 09:26am PT
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Bravo!! Inspirational!
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magda_o
Big Wall climber
Aberdeen(Scotland)/Tychy(Poland)
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Author's Reply
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Nov 24, 2016 - 09:52am PT
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Thanks for all comments!
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Nov 27, 2016 - 10:47pm PT
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Solid and proud thanks
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Nov 28, 2016 - 06:14am PT
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photo says it all!STEELy EYED DETERMINATION !
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senderzero
Trad climber
MANHATTAN BEACH, CA
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Dec 22, 2016 - 11:01am PT
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Great trip report! Will incorporate can of fruit in pocket for all future training :P
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ts123
Trad climber
uk
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Dec 26, 2016 - 10:20am PT
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Nice one Magda :) I climbed Zodiac as my first solo too... and also fell off the nipple! Good call on flagging your portaledge, it makes it so much easier...
Maria
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JohnnyG
climber
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love this report. Hope to solo it myself some day
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Thanks I liked it
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Dan McDevitt
Social climber
tioga cliff or fifi buttress
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great job!!! serious kick ass motivation!
love it!!!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Love the thought bubbles along with just about everything else. This is the good stuff.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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She is not Polish bro, she is a full on Ukrainian! Even if she doesn't know it.
Well done on the climb! I want to learn to use my silent partner. Having too many psyched friends does not help it...
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Fantastic! I'm glad this got bumped.
So many good things in this trip report.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Great TR!
Thanks!
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1800' of fantastic climbing. Photo: Chris McNamara
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