Trip Report
A little Royal Arches apron TR
Sunday May 8, 2011 3:30pm
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It's Spring, and a (not) young man's thoughts turn to......climbing.
The foothills are green and happy.
In our long-running quest to sack up for 'Greasy But Groovy', we set out to climb 'Arches Terrace'.
Kind of rare, but another party was there also, so we did another short route while they got started.
Looked at 'Flakes Away' (flattened bolt hangers, but still clip-able). Rated 5.10, a greaseball start and those two bolts lead to a grass- filled crack. The odds of impaling on a small tree, and heavy gardening if you survived that caused us to look at...
'Slander Session' 5.10-R
This has actual holds, but at least two out of five of them come off when you pull on them.
The view, however, is sweet.
If we keep this up, we'll be ready for the real slick-ness.
This climb is run-out at the top. I went up another twenty or twenty five feet to avoid belaying from the side, and from there, there was exactly 1/2 the rope out as Tony left the top-most bolt, on 5.9 rice crispies.
Then on to Arches Terrace- first climbed in 1957. Good stuff. You should do this climb.
Traverse. It looked hard in the flat mid-day light, but it's pretty sticky.
More cool views.
After an elaborate group rappel, it was off to pizza and beer.
But a good look at the objective on the way down.
Greasy But Groovy
What's on your list?
Jay Wood
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About the Author Jay Wood is a trad climber from Fairfax, CA. |
Comments
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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That looks really cool, Jay. Nothing specific on my list yet, but you may have added a couple!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Thanks for the TR Jay.
Mighty nice climbing under the Big Arch although it looks like a bolt kit might have been handy to replace those rusty Leeper-hangered buttonheads.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Thanks, Jay.
And yeah, it looks like Roger and I missed replacing the bolts on Slander Session - oops!
I just exchanged some emails with Roger - this will be an easy one to fix this summer.
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Good on you for the TR Jay. Enjoyed both the climb, your TR and sharing the raps.
Cheers,
marc
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Cascade Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Arches Terrace was one of the first climbs I did in Yosemite back in 1962. It was great fun then and looks to still be so.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Nice TR, Jay! Greasy but Groovy - do you feel close to ready? Are you thinking this Spring?
Be sure to write up the TR when you go for it!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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very nice! jealous... : )
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Arches Terrace scared me to death when I was first on it in 1971, but then I started to get the hang of that sort of thing. Greasy but Groovy always scared me enough to avoid trying it.
Thanks for the TR. I greatly enjoyed it.
John
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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sweet. the arches slab does not get the attention it deserves. if you hike flakes away, you're ready. just screw those nuts on tight!
flakes away is solid 5.11, btw. harder that valahalla for SURE, with way less pro.
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Hey Jay. Great times over there, eh? My friend and I just did Shaky Flakes. A real beauty of a line.. Thanks Roger Brown for the new bolts (unfortunately the last 2 didn't get rebolted. Might have to fix that here soon...)
Love it over there...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Shakey Flakes: 30 bolts on pitches 1-6 were replaced by ASCA people in 1997 (not Roger and I in 2007).
http://www.safeclimbing.org/areas/california/yosemitefree.htm
All I did in 2007 was tension way left from the p6 anchor on Friday the 13th to check for missing bolts on Shakey Flakes p1-6. I replaced just the crux bolt on p5 that was missing.
I also tensioned further left and fixed a rope on The Rambler, where Roger replaced the anchor and a missing bolt on p1.
Shakey Flakes: the topo shows 2 protection bolts and a 2-bolt anchor on p7, then no bolts on p8.
Is that correct?
If you are going back and want help replacing those bolts, please contact me - I could "tag along".
I wanted to lead p7 of Friday the 13th to access those pitches, but it was too runout for me to deal with.
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
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Author's Reply
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May 9, 2011 - 12:17pm PT
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Thanks, all.
Clint- thanks for bolts & beta.
Hoipolloi- Was it wet at the top from the little falls? Did you bring much gear? How does Shaky Flakes compare to other routes there? I've done Midlife Crisis, Surf Nazi, and a few pitches of Rambler.
Jay
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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May 10, 2011 - 05:31pm PT
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Nice Jay :)
You da man on face climbs.
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LithiumMetalman
Trad climber
cesspool central
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May 10, 2011 - 05:36pm PT
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Great TR!
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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May 10, 2011 - 06:29pm PT
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Nice, Jay.
Don't pull on those (2 out of 5) holds, stand on them.
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Zander
climber
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May 10, 2011 - 06:36pm PT
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Nice. I'd like to get on those. Thanks for posting,
Zander
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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May 10, 2011 - 06:42pm PT
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The talus pile at the bottom in pictures 2 & 5 above look ominous.
Great rock. I gotta get up there. Been thinkin about it too long. Gotta do it.
I've always thought the ugliest climb in the Valley would be to aid the great arch from the left side, all the way up.
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
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Author's Reply
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May 11, 2011 - 12:25am PT
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Thanks, Steve- I had seen that but good to look again.
Weird- the Meyers-Reid guide has Flakes Away as 5.11c, and unnamed Slander Session as 5.11d; then the Reid guide shows 5.10 and 5.10- respectively.
Scuffy- That's why I pulled them off- so I wouldn't stand on them, but you go right ahead...
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Feb 13, 2015 - 09:35pm PT
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Tony and jay!
Yeah
Jay n tony!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 13, 2015 - 10:13pm PT
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Roger and I did replace the bolts on Slander Session that summer (2011).
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