Trip Report
After Six but Before Four with A Dolt
Monday October 6, 2014 10:11am
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Lilabiene was here in Yosemite for Facelift. It was a short, barn-burner of a trip for her, with lots of panic and lots of joy. A fairly normal visit to the Valley, in other words, as many who come and go quickly might also corroborate with similar stories of stalled vehicles, missed flights, missing bags, and no rest.
I'm glad she took advantage of Ed Hartouni's excellent companionship on a roped climb almost immediately on her arrival in the Valley. She came into Yellow Pine with a bicycle for me, a project which neebee set in motion, loaded into the trunk of her rental car. She had come in from SFO and picked the bike up someplace in the Valley and carted it over to YPCG. She had just met up, providentially, with Ed there in camp when I showed up, almost on his heels, fresh (well, kind of beat, actually) from a walk along the river making photographs.
The Merced River's at its nadir right now. I needed to see and record the low water. Coming back into camp I crossed a ford in the river. When Ed and Audrey/Lilabiene/Odd took off to go climb on Manure Pile they took the same basic route, across the ford to the road and down to the Buttress.
Crossing the ford, the second time in an hour for me, wasn't a big deal, as I took a large pine branch and used it as a tripod. I had my camera tripod slung around my neck and shoulders and needed the third leg.
As Ed had scampered over to me, Audrey paused and gingerly came over, eventually making a solid, dry-shod landing after a longish look at the width and a moment to collect herself. This was maybe the crux of the whole adventure, the dry shoes! Quien sabe?
Here's Ed's description of events and I'll leave it at that.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2493423&tn=40
To Odd: I would rather send these but what the heck, let everyone see how good a climber you are. You've done old Bill proud.
THE Muppet will probably be leading this climb or ones like it by the time she's ten or so, I'm betting. Then she'll be able to drag you up some Grade Six by the time she's eighteen.
The sky's the limit, as the fly-boys say.
Here are Lilabiene and THE Muppet. Missing photo ID#381005 Missing photo ID#381006 The point where one fords ends at the outlet for Eagle Creek, where Audrey and I set to work trash-picking two years ago at Facelift, during her first excursion into the Valley. It's bizarre that her latest trip involved exactly the same terrain. Missing photo ID#381007 Missing photo ID#381008 Missing photo ID#381009 Missing photo ID#381010 Missing photo ID#381011 Missing photo ID#381021 Audrey getting down to business. Missing photo ID#381012 Missing photo ID#381013 Missing photo ID#381014 Missing photo ID#381015 Missing photo ID#381016 Missing photo ID#381017 Missing photo ID#381018 Missing photo ID#381019 Missing photo ID#381023 Missing photo ID#381020 It was with regret that I did not take any photos of Audrey and her birth mom's sister. I am sorry, Audrey; but I figured you had little enough time to spend visiting and I wasn't seeking to intrude in the slightest little bit on your meeting.
Regardless of that, this little record of your first big route here in Yosemite is little enough to pay you back for the rides, the food, the bike, the other things too numerous or silly to mention. Above all, thanks for taking the time to come visit. We all loved seeing you. And we are looking forward to further adventures as they come due.
A bientot, Lilabiene. Missing photo ID#381022 Dolt Lives!!!!
mouse from merced
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About the Author mouse from merced is a tard climber from merced, california. |
Comments
Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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A good time was had by all. Nice
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Very nice, Mouse!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Rad Mouse!! Awesome to see Audrey get out there! Sweet pics too!
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
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Mouse, just so special... I am so bummed I got to spend so little time with Audrey. It looks as if she had a wonderful climb.
Till next year!
Susan
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Thanks for posting this, Mouse. I really missed not being there this year, but posts like yours help to ease the pain a bit.
John
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Well done!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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It's easy to post this here too..
Waiting for LilaBiene to arrive on her epic journey, I lingered at Yellow Pine through the morning. Having finally decided that she might not arrive until later, I started out towards the Facelift Command Center for a crack-of-noon start.
I encountered LilaBiene on the YPCG road coming in... turning around I observed that the weather was holding and if she wanted to get some climbing in we should do it sooner rather than later.
A short walk to Manure Pile buttress with a river ford got us to the base to find many teams engaged on the routes. We picked a different line to get onto After Six...
at the top of the first pitch
I was "On belay"... The Mouse has an image (above) of LilaBiene coming up on that pitch.
Pitch 3, the "flake" pitch, is often the crux for a non-Yosemite climber, seemed no problem... here coming up to the sheltered belay... a windy and cool day with a bit of uncertainty on whether or not it would rain.
A climbing team coming up from below, Japanese or Korean, and we had a Spanish team up above (busy day!)
I found a junior buzz worm on top of the next pitch... about 8" long and no rattles yet... sinuously trying to find some hiding spot... beautiful black diamonds on white background and a black head... never seen one up here before.
At the belay for the last pitch, upon being so informed, LilaBiene protested, "I want it to go on forever" every climb is the start of the next climb, so there will be more to come.
Classic "summit" photo
cool and stormy weather to come, the clouds resting on Cloud's Rest already. We got a climb in just before it would be hard to find a weather window on the weekend.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Excellent TR, mouse & Ed! Wish I could have gone on that climb and would have had more time to visit with Audrey. I also wish I'd taken more pictures of Facelift in general and Audrey and her aunt, Adrian, whom she met at Facelift for the first time in their lives. Audrey knows that her visit(s) here are always too short, but we know that she wants to remain connected with her birth parents' climbing families. Thanks to Audrey and to all who have made her feel so welcome and at home here.
My complete Facelift report can be found here:
http://www.yosemitecloseup.com/stories/yosemite-news/
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Author's Reply
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Oct 7, 2014 - 09:51pm PT
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"Always serve the best last."--Mom on meals.
"Start at the top and work down."--Mom on cleaning."Start at the top and work down, Tom."--Mother Rhorer
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Oct 10, 2014 - 08:12pm PT
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Mouse, I'm so touched by your beautiful heart...thank you so much for capturing this unbelievably precious moment in time and sharing it with me through your eyes and heart.
Thank you for your friendship, across so many miles.
The muppet thanks you, too, because she was wondering why I went away...but thanks to the wonderful pictures of Facelift you've posted elsewhere, too, she now understands and has made me promise I won't go to Yosemite again without her.
And thank you, Ed, for immediately getting me up on the rock, something I desperately needed after the craziness of the last 6 months, and something that I couldn't have foreseen as since having been my saving grounding grace after the overwhelming experience of meeting my birth mom's sister, Adriane.
And thank you Boo and Lisa, for your warmth and understanding and being my "rocks" when my world felt like it had been turned up-side-down. Your understanding smiles and hugs, and strong shoulders helped me more than I can say.
Susan, next year we will spend some quality time! That Sunday morning I could barely put two sentences together -- I was still so overwhelmed with emotions after meeting Adriane that I was in some kind of protective fog, I think. (Still processing, actually!)
And thanks to everyone who made me feel so welcomed -- there isn't a day that goes by that I don't think about when I'll next be able to pitch my tent, take a deep breath and inhale the intoxicating smell that is Yosemite...and see you all again. You've all made my heart feel incredibly full, and darned if I'm not the luckiest adopted kid in the world. <3
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Fletcher
Boulder climber
Institute of Better Bouldering-DirtbagDad Division
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Oct 10, 2014 - 11:41pm PT
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Wow, what a heart-warming trip report. Thanks for posting. Hits home all the more since I climbed it with my friend Jim about the same time (we did it on Facelift Friday).
Knowing how relatively new Audrey is to climbing, that's an impressive route to get up, especially after many hijinx in getting to the Valley, and hopping on it off the couch (errr... maybe camp chair in this case?).
Here's what Blitzo had to say about the route (from MP):
By Blitzo
Sep 29, 2006
The first pitch is greasy and polished! I thought I was going to die, free soloing it, on a humid day with constant gnat annoyance. I was so glad to wrap my arms around the tree growing out of it, before the last face moves.
The tree is now gone.
I'll never solo that pitch again!
The upper pitches offer very friendly, secure soloing and are very fun!
Double-goodness knowing his spirit has an adventure there as well!
Eric
Edit: P.S. I will never solo that pitch either!!!!1
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Oct 10, 2014 - 09:06pm PT
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Fletcher, I can't believe I missed you!!!
But I have to agree, that climb is so much fun. If the weather hadn't turned, I would have been begging and pleading to go up again.
Definitely good mojo there -- now I know why! ")
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Fletcher
Boulder climber
Institute of Better Bouldering-DirtbagDad Division
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Oct 10, 2014 - 11:40pm PT
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Yeah, I was in low profile mode this time, mostly because I arrived much later (days) than expected. I had been in SW Yosemite backpacking with a friend the weekend prior and split an oil pan out in BFE. Thanks to some help from some hunters, a forest service fire fighter and the best tow truck driver ever (but also the most expensive ever for me!), a long tale of woe, fun, and intrigue ensued.
Gee, that last sentence sounds like an opening for a joke or a 30,000+ post ST thread! Ha!
Sorry to have missed you and most everyone else too. But there is always next year, the year after that, etc.
Got to spend some time with my daughter and her boyfriend who were both stoked to be there!
Eric
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
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Oct 11, 2014 - 12:05am PT
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A most excellent TR.
Good on you all for making some happy times.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Oct 11, 2014 - 08:16am PT
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Love the pics. Didn't there used to be a tree on After Six down low? I think I remember slinging that thing...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 11, 2014 - 08:09pm PT
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the tree is long gone (years now) and its passing has evoked a desire to re-grade that first pitch, put somewhere around 5.8 now...
that pitch, and the 5.9 alternative start to Nutcracker, are harder to do than the book grades would indicate. A large part of that has to do with the rock polished by so many climbers. But we don't have a way of agreeing on changing the ratings of climbs due to use, so the historic ratings stand.
Just to reiterate what I said in my description above, LilaBiene and I took a different start, which is the one I use when I've soloed the route. That starts at the base of the original Nut Cracker start (just under the large oak that is up 10' on the ledge) and diagonals left (west) across the top of a bunch of climbs to get to the start of the 2nd pitch of After Six.
This usually avoids the traffic, and inserts you into the mix at the base of the chimney pitch, which is a nice place to sit, chat, nosh, and sip while waiting for your turn to go up.
While we all know that rattlesnakes live in the Valley, this trip was my first encounter with one, that I was aware of, on a route. And the one I encountered was just a little one... so momma and poppa were around somewhere. Be careful where you put your hands.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Oct 11, 2014 - 10:10am PT
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hey there say, ... wow, and oh my! mouse, this is sooo sweet, so wonderful... oh i so much LOVE these 'meant to be things' that work out like wonderfully planned story books of amazements...
great share, too, ed... great stuff!!
great memories for lilabiene!!! and for to share with the muppet!
:)
i can see and feel the rocks and the adventure and the FRIENDSHIPS
from here!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Oct 11, 2014 - 10:15am PT
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hey there say, fletcher!
say, as to your quote:
Yeah, I was in low profile mode this time, mostly because I arrived much later (days) than expected.
hee hee, 'low profile mode' as to the trip, but always you are 'high profile mode' as to good friendship, :)
so glad you got that precious time with your daughter! too!
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
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Oct 11, 2014 - 10:17am PT
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desire to re-grade that first pitch
HA Ha. So true. I swear if you cut out a large enough section it would be ready for your bathroom vanity. No other polishing needed.
Susan
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Oct 11, 2014 - 02:53pm PT
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Nice write-up
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