Trip Report
Afternoon Bouldering with a Golden Age Crack Master
Monday February 14, 2011 7:29pm
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I’ve known Larry Zulim for a long time. A great guy and all about going climbing. He climbs hard too, usually going to Yosemite at least once a week to climb crack.
He knows a lot of old climbing history and stories from the valley days. There is a picture of him balancing on a slack chain in the Yosemite Climber book by George Meyers. You would think that after all those years it would be time to do a slide show tour or write a book but Larry’s still climbing Hard for his sixty some years! I went along on a bouldering excursion one afternoon recently with him and our friends Bruce and Adam. Bruce and I have climbed for some years now and Adam had never climbed before and bought some gear just for this day. We brought along one bouldering pad, though we hardly used it. We were Trad Bouldering I guess you could call the 440 Boulders a secret spot. All along the foothills of the Central Sierra, there are areas peppered with boulders, some medium, some amazingly huge! But it’s all mostly off limits. “No Trespassing” signs everywhere.
This boulder place Larry is taking us doesn’t seem to have any of those kinds of signs. Coming here for a number of years already, he knows the access secrets, which includes bringing some doggie treats.
Located on the eastern edge of the valley between Visalia and Fresno, it’s a bunch of lefts and rights, then through a farm workers yard with bulls and on to the edge of an orange orchard to get to the rocks. The parking is at a pullout slashed with gang graffiti, broken glass and bullet holes. It was unsettling to head to the rock leaving the truck to fend for itself.
Last time I went to a bouldering area, a year ago maybe, everyone had a pad. It looked like a mattress convention! We would pile em all up for the high ball problems. Being a good spotter kept you in with the in crowd. Some big climbs you have to jump off the top onto waiting pads or pad.
There were chalk “buckets” of all things! Poles with coarse brushes taped on with duct tape leaned against the boulders. There was a step ladder too. Everybody was covered in chalk and sweat, a stove down in the dirt hissed out the smell of an espresso pot boiling and the banged up boom box blared out some thumping, bumping, gitty up rant. And everyone was sending the stuff, going for it on big air to the applause and yells of the crowd, climbing hard and in style and getting stronger and bolder on the Boulder. It’s contagious for sure. Bouldering is a sport all on its own!
Today it was just climbing. We were nomadic, moving camp to the next boulder set as soon as we’d all done the problems or not. There were some funky landings, with fist size rocks. I guess the pad would help here but we didn’t want to take the time. The climber must not fall was the mantra, though it wasn’t that bad.
This was more like the way I remember bouldering to be, when all you brought was shoes and a chalk bag. Sometimes a piece of rug helped. . Larry was going for 90 problems, which he did. He doesn’t count the down climbing and just keeps moving, though not too fast, just steady. Bruce and I got up more problems than we thought and Adam got a serious taste for climbing on his first boulder problems
We finished right as the sun was going down and it was almost dark as we came back to the truck where all was amazingly well. All the light was just right for photos and views and we felt rewarded with sore muscles and planning for the next week’s trip back. I’m Thankful to Larry for giving me the gusto to go climbing and having him as my inspiration!
Radish
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About the Author Radish is a trad climber from SeKi, California. |
Comments
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 14, 2011 - 07:34pm PT
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Very nice!!! I remember "Hot" Henry having his hands full with Vanishing Point around the time he put up Fish Crack. We errr..."mature" guys need to root for each other.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 14, 2011 - 07:36pm PT
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Whoa! That's almost enough to make me think about trying bouldering. Nice TR
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Feb 14, 2011 - 07:50pm PT
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schweeet
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 14, 2011 - 07:57pm PT
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I wish I had more forty foot cracks handy! Glad to see that Larry Z is still at it!
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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Feb 14, 2011 - 07:57pm PT
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When I was first cutting my teeth on the vertical, the name Larry Zulim was the stuff of legend around Santa Cruz.
Cheers for the great TR and beautiful alpine glow on the stone.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Feb 14, 2011 - 08:00pm PT
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Looks like a really fine time. 90 sounds like a lot.
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal Ca.
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Feb 14, 2011 - 08:23pm PT
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Larry rocks, no doubt about it, he's nice, loves to crank, and he has a killer smile!
That t.r. is cool, plus there were treats for the doggies!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Feb 14, 2011 - 09:18pm PT
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Bump for sum short cracks!!!!
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Nick
climber
Dazed, Confused
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Feb 14, 2011 - 09:29pm PT
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Good to hear you are doing well Larry! That bouldering looks fantastic.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Feb 14, 2011 - 09:31pm PT
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A nice report - thanks! It won't stop raining here until August, so it's nice to see the sun, even if vicariously.
If you're talking with Larry, mention that I have contact information for Simon Tooley - I think they were pals BITGOD.
There were chalk “buckets” of all things! Poles with coarse brushes taped on with duct tape leaned against the boulders. There was a step ladder too. Everybody was covered in chalk and sweat, a stove down in the dirt hissed out the smell of an espresso pot boiling and the banged up boom box blared out some thumping, bumping, gitty up rant. And everyone was sending the stuff, going for it on big air to the applause and yells of the crowd, climbing hard and in style and getting stronger and bolder on the Boulder. It’s contagious for sure. Bouldering is a sport all on its own!
I'll pass on the herd scene, thanks.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
On the road.
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Feb 14, 2011 - 10:02pm PT
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Dang, Larry, glad to see you're still gettin after it!
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Feb 14, 2011 - 10:03pm PT
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Larry Zulim:
One of the nicest/coolest guys in the nylon ghetto BITD.
Glad to see he is doing well.
Nice TR !
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Feb 14, 2011 - 10:26pm PT
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great photos, really nice TR
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Feb 14, 2011 - 10:30pm PT
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thx
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Feb 14, 2011 - 10:34pm PT
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Sweet, looks like socal bouldering
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Feb 14, 2011 - 10:42pm PT
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Inspirational report for an "old fart."
Hope to climb with Larry one of these old days!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Feb 14, 2011 - 10:43pm PT
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That place looks great. I love crack boulder problems.
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Double D
climber
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Feb 14, 2011 - 10:46pm PT
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Larry roxs... saw him a few years ago at the Nose reunion. He mentioned that he's been climbing a bunch in Yosemite and then...he showed me the callouses on the back of his hands. Those suckers were as thick as bricks.
Good TR.
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Slick W
Trad climber
lemon cove, ca
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Feb 14, 2011 - 10:49pm PT
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Fun day at the 440's. Larry's a great tour guide and inspirational as a climber. Nice pics by my buddy Rene.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Feb 15, 2011 - 12:10am PT
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Cool little place and nice lighting at the end!
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Feb 15, 2011 - 12:25am PT
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Ho daddy.....its the Three Rivers/Exeter/Visalia Boyz!!!
Damn, Rene!.....good to see you getting out. Would love to have you get out to the "secret" place with Ger Jessuran and I. I remember Larry taking me out to 440. I won't tell!
BTW, let's set a weekend to tour from Lemon Cove up to the park and then back around......you know, the Sequoia Century!
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Feb 15, 2011 - 12:35am PT
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Yeah I also remember Larry Z! Super cool guy!!
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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Feb 15, 2011 - 12:52am PT
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Sweet tr!
I love how there's a huge pile of boulders overlooking what looks to be farm land and power lines.
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The Guy
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Feb 15, 2011 - 01:34am PT
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Radish! Selma Kingsburg! I'm class of 1998 Vikings. Grew up in the town of Traver. Me thinks those are the Orosi boulders. 'nough said. I remember going out there and being so impressed before I was a climber. Used to party out in those areas. Lots of rock out there! I now live in Portland Oregon. Now, as a climber, I really miss living down there. Rock on!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Feb 15, 2011 - 02:36am PT
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Larry Zulim sighting, WOOOOOOOOO ! !
One of my favorite guys from back in the day.
Larry was the mellowest, coolest, hardest crankin'....awesome.
Beautiful pics too.
Mature guys rooting for each other, CHECK!!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Feb 15, 2011 - 06:19am PT
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Very neat TR -- and very cool people!
I bouldered in that vicinity last in 1978, when I was in my second year of law school at UCLA. Tim Schiller in Fresno wrote me about this amazing bouldering area he'd found. "Cracks, cracks, cracks!," I remember him writing, so during spring break, I had him take me out there. We ended up on one of the off-limits areas, and lived to tell about it, but the rock wasn't as nice as this.
Now I'll need to go back and look a little harder.
Thanks for the TR, and for letting me know that Larry is still at it.
John
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Author's Reply
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Feb 16, 2011 - 11:08am PT
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My first Trip Report. Thanks for the replies!
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Josh Nash
Social climber
riverbank ca
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Feb 16, 2011 - 11:14am PT
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what a cool day....
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Feb 19, 2011 - 10:42am PT
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Awesome, great to see some good bouldering pics!
How old is Larry?
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Feb 19, 2011 - 03:52pm PT
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Yet another worldclass climbing area in Cal. Hats off to Larry.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Feb 19, 2011 - 04:01pm PT
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Thanks.
Surprisingly familiar looking spot. I wanna go there! Great company you guys keep. Love it.
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Zander
climber
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Feb 19, 2011 - 04:17pm PT
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Cool!
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Feb 19, 2011 - 04:25pm PT
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Hooo, man, excellent. I wish I had them boulders in my backyard.
Thanks.
BAd
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Feb 19, 2011 - 06:13pm PT
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Thanks for the inspirational TR. Looking out at 3 feet of snow with a cold wind blowing----I can't wait till it's ready to get on some cracks!
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 19, 2011 - 06:49pm PT
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That was fantastic! My first impression of the area was of that region just beyond Tehachapi Pass on the Bakersfield side (which it's obviously not, but looks similar).
Great TR, and I hope you get plenty more opportunities for the same kind of fun.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Feb 19, 2011 - 08:11pm PT
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Great trip report.
Larry was a great inspiration and Valley ambassador when we showed up back in the seventies. I remember thinking he was ancient when he turned forty. Glad to see he's still cranking after all these years.
All the best Larry!
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Feb 19, 2011 - 09:05pm PT
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great pictures and prose, thanks!
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Feb 19, 2011 - 09:50pm PT
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Nice report, and it makes me want to try bouldering too!
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Feb 26, 2011 - 03:52am PT
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Sounds like Larry has been an inspiration, mentor and friend to a lot of people. I sure felt privileged to follow him around.
Those boulder areas are so beautiful this time of year. Fun just to hike around and enjoy them.
We would get together around 4 pm after working in the fields on a hot summer day. The rocks in the sun would be burning hot, but in the shade we could touch them. Dip hands in the chalk, then jam up the hot cracks as fast as possible before slimeing out. Flame those arms, get stickers in the socks, then jump in a canal for an evening swim.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 26, 2011 - 04:17am PT
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hey there say, radish... did not get to see all the pics... but this is really a nice trip report...
i am not "in the know" as to all this, but i still enjoyed it...
:)
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Feb 27, 2011 - 07:09pm PT
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What a good trip report - mellow vibes. Thanks!
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Jingy
climber
Random Nobody
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Feb 27, 2011 - 07:15pm PT
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Bump for the crack master, and that area...
Looks tits!!!
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Author's Reply
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Feb 28, 2011 - 07:43pm PT
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Thanks again for the replies! I finally got Larry over here to check this Trip Report out, his only computer was on the blink. He's not one to blow his own horn for sure and to write a story about him....no way! So, I told him I had a Birthday present, since he turned 62 just a couple of days after we went on this excursion. Phew, I was sweating it, but he liked it alot and smiled that smile!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Bump for the climbing pics !
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Thanks for sharing. The last bouldering photo - grove/orchard in background - is a winner.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
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Crack bouldering - my favorite. Seeing that Larry Zulim is still at it is good news.
Hi Larry. Do you still remembering bondo-ing and priming my old 69 Ford Econoline?
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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bippity bumpity boo!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Beautiful looking cracks. Great TR Radish.
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Yeah those are some nice looking boulders!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Great bump, killer TR. Looks like an incredibly peaceful spot.
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limpingcrab
Gym climber
Minkler, CA
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'Tis the season! Those boulders are where I met Larry, he loves that place.
If you know where this is, go about 1/4 mile east, even better IMO!
Love this TR and the pictures
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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I'm drooling ...
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Just saw this. Very cool.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Author's Reply
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Dec 4, 2014 - 11:27am PT
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Thanks for the Comps! Hopefully this will encourage me to do another trip report about climbing soon. I climbed with Larry Z. just a couple of weeks ago at his favorite crag....Danland. He's still at the top of his game for sure!
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Nice article! It's always interesting for me to see where the sport has gone over the years. Sixty years ago I wouldn't have thought high-balling with an element of risk would become so popular. Bouldering has a life of its own!
;>)
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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The Thimble was a sort of genesis moment, wasn't it? All of the scary highball stuff that we hear about has some part of its origin in that send of the Thimble. Course now people use shoes, chalk, pads, etc.
Looked at the TR again: Vanishing Point was such a cool and, in the crux section, difficult line. I didn't get it clean. Orange Alien -> tough size fingers.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Author's Reply
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Dec 5, 2014 - 01:02pm PT
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Vanishing Point was a great climb. The south side of Yosemite Valley is usually quieter and so nobody was around to hear me yell as I was falling off the crux. Larry led right up it no problem. Pads do make highballs alittle more secure as you can stack em up. I've seen 4'stacks, nice to land on if you are way up and somehow fall. When I started Bouldering all we had were carpet scraps. Not much of a pad, mainly to clean your shoes before getting on the rock. It made you think more about going higher.
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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I never thought of the Thimble as a bouldering problem. It was an exploratory free-solo climb as far as I was concerned. But history carves its own path.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Author's Reply
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May 26, 2017 - 11:19am PT
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Bumping my TR here. I'm still hanging out with Larry Z who is currently doing very hard problems and FA's in Danland, SNP. I know there was a thread about hard climbing older dudes....he is that and still an inspiration to me!! Enjoy ....
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 26, 2017 - 11:15am PT
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The next one I do !
I will name E.F.S.C. ~> Exploritory Free Solo Climb!
So it won't tip the 'V' Grades, not even B1,
but the fun & inspiration is thnx to this one.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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May 26, 2017 - 11:54am PT
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Fantastic TR, Rene! Can't believe I missed it the first time around.
Scott
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