Trip Report
Auburn Quarry last weekend, mini TR
Wednesday March 30, 2016 10:47pm
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It is with humble indignity that I admit I'm not much of a climber. So, for Easter weekend I set my sights on thrashing my way up something, anything at the old limestone quarry.
I've never been there, so I figured it was time. Between the house, the job, the broken truck, and the kids I haven't slept in a couple months, or so it seems, and took saturday morning off, just for me. I headed out with climbing gear, a fishing pole, and a gold pan. Lofty goals for a late start and an early return requirement.
Missing photo ID#450763
It was a beautiful, sunny morning. Temp was just right for the mile hike up the old railroad bed that leads from the confluence to the quarry. Alas, I left the fishing pole and the gold pan behind; but brought rope, harness, silent partner, and a full rack (doh!), sans backpack.
Missing photo ID#450764
The hike in wasn't bad. I'd heard at the parking lot that there were two large groups of climbers, so I fully expected that there would be nothing left to climb. I have multiple copies of the guide printed off that other climbing site, and forgot every damn one of them. So, I should have known better than to bring anything other than a dozen draws. Apparently, as questioned by a couple joggers, I must have been carrying all that gear for a purpose?
In any case, there were roughly 30 people or so all gang-roping the (I'm guessing?) easy routes near the entry, which looked pretty good to me. So I wandered on back to a shaded alcove around the corner and found a suitably large rock to anchor to, and proceeded to french-free my way up the route.
Missing photo ID#450766 Missing photo ID#450765 At this point, it's a good thing I can still climb a ladder to paint the ceiling, 'cause my footwork's gone to sh#t. I'm also overcrimping every hold I can manage to get my fingers on and can't manage to "see" more than about 10% of the available holds that are there. Thank god for chalk, (referring to the gratuitous tic marks left by those who preceeded me) or I couldn't have even cheated my way up with a stick-clip and a prusik!
Missing photo ID#450768 Anyway, I made it to the chains, rapped off, and pulled rope for the next party who wanted to lead it. Their 10 minutes to do what took me 45 minutes definitely put the crimp in my ego. So I schlepped the rack on over to the sunny side, where an unassuming 5.6ish looking route made a fool of me for not figuring out how to pull the moves to the 1st bolt, since it required some opening moves past a death-block looking hunk just above head height that I was sure would spit me out and land on my chest for spite if I so much as glanced at it sideways on my way past. Oh, and there was no ground anchor for the SP, so I was aiming to simply clip that 1st bolt with the end of the rope and run it from there.
Lucky for me, some guy wandered by waiting for his partner and offered to lead. So I gladly munged my way to the first belay on top rope. Yay me! The route continued for at least another pitch; but I declined as I realized the wife would soon be setting a match to all my climbing gear if I didn't hustle home real quick.
Missing photo ID#450770 Note to self: Bring a backpack next time. Jogging in a harness, carrying a rope that's butterflied and backpack style, with a full rack on a single runner over your shoulder sucks. Bring lunch. Bring a route guide. Leave the stupid rack at home. Bring the wife and kids and lunch for them and make a day out of it. It's really a nice location, so long as you don't mind the outdoor-gym setting.
Missing photo ID#450771 Missing photo ID#450772
jonnyrig
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About the Author jonnyrig needs to get out more. |
Comments
limpingcrab
Gym climber
Minkler, CA
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Mar 30, 2016 - 10:51pm PT
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Right on, looks like a fun place!
No partner, no guide, no backpack and still got out, you must actually like this stuff.
How was the rock? Climbing on marble (metamorphosed limestone) always looked sketchy to me.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Author's Reply
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Mar 30, 2016 - 11:01pm PT
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Some of it's pretty good there, other bits crumble on your fingertips. And a fair number of loose blocks that could take a bite out of you or your belayer.
Quite a bit to chose from, though I'd recommend actually bringing a guidebook with you, which several parties seemed to be actually doing. Most of what I grabbed seemed to be broken in a downward-slanting direction, which didn't lend itself well to breaking off in hold-producing chunks; but then again I didn't assess more than about two routes out of many different possibilities. There were a few hand and finger cracks, and I truly enjoyed the upper section of the 1st route I flailed upon.
Go early if you want to see more, the place is jam-packed. Also, there are seeps from some areas, and if you're too early I'd venture that there's dew on the routes that would hamper you. Really nothing for gear placements that I saw, so just a dozen draws or so and a few slings would get you far.
It would be a good idea to talk to someone who's actually spent a little time climbing there instead of just my two cents here.
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squishy
Mountain climber
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Mar 30, 2016 - 11:44pm PT
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i GIVE IT A PERFECT 5 OUT OF 7
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Mar 31, 2016 - 07:22am PT
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Out avoiding finishing up your taxes? ;) Nice job getting out! I'm going to get in a little avoidance time myself today.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Mar 31, 2016 - 07:34am PT
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It may have seemed a bit like the gym, but, hey, it's still outside. Good for you for getting out there.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 31, 2016 - 08:34am PT
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Good reminder that this spot exists! Thanks for sharing.
A friend taught me to lead there, without telling me that 5.8 outdoors is different in the gym. Ended up taking an unplanned whip on my first practice lead. :)
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Mar 31, 2016 - 08:51am PT
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Leave the stupid rack at home.
Or go somewhere that requires it. Place looks interesting, thanks for posting
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gizzard
Trad climber
sacrramento
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Mar 31, 2016 - 10:59am PT
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the corner route is 5.10b uncomfortablty dumb.
nice job!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Mar 31, 2016 - 01:25pm PT
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Congrats on getting out, it ain't easy with a family!
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Mar 31, 2016 - 01:33pm PT
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Jonnyrig! Way to get out there. You don't look a day over 40.
Never been there, so TFPU!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 31, 2016 - 01:43pm PT
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JRig, let me know next time you wanna swim over here, I'll hold your rope.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 31, 2016 - 02:36pm PT
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Pride makes us artificial while humility makes us real, according to Thomas Merton.
No spray here, folks...move along.
Thanks, JRig.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 31, 2016 - 09:03pm PT
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Thanks. As good a few minutes as I spent on this site recently, and I like your style. I can't remember if there are any caves right around there.
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Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
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Mar 31, 2016 - 09:11pm PT
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I would really like to get out there someday too. We have so little outdoor climbing available that is a short drive from marin. And I love clipping bolts. Thanks for the TR!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 31, 2016 - 10:10pm PT
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Good show Jonny, but how about some good rock sans hordes with tons of new routes just wating?
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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A long time ago, I walked into this canyon and saw the potential for a great local crag that didn't require a 2 hour drive. It's cool to see it from other perspectives.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Author's Reply
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Apr 1, 2016 - 06:36am PT
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Thanks all. To be clear, I thoroughly enjoyed it and will return.
Rick, yes. House is being listed next week, transmission is going in the truck this weekend. Should be able to get out.
Survival, I'll take you up on that some time.
Long ago we would spend hot summer days swimming in the river, jumping off rocks downstream of the confluence, and occasionally fishing. My grandfather was working on the Auburn Dam the last time it flooded, and helped build Sugarpine. Long history in the area.
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michaeld
climber
Beta Sprayer at your Gym
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That corner route, I was sitting under when my buddy was belaying another buddy. I moved because my neck was starting to hurt. A huge rock got pulled out and crashed on that rock that's got the anchor on it, right where I was sitting.
Auburn is good people watching, if you like watching idiots.
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