Trip Report
Barry's Resoles and the This Just In Show
Wednesday September 24, 2014 8:31am
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It's a great thing to work in a place where your boss and other boss are climbers. It's Friday and our phone rings. Cam says, "I can't this weekend, let me hand you over to Jeremy." Jeremy says, "I can't this weekend, let me hand you over to Justin."
Many know Barry Chambers from his resoling business, a lot also know him for many proud FAs, his great climbing ability, and an overall kindness and good nature that the world needs. I always like discussing new shoes with Barry, how they are put together, do they hold up?, etc. A couple months ago I told him I was looking to get a great all around shoe with emphasis on comfort. We agreed to climb on my side of the river at Dreamscape, one of the many formations at Shuteye. When we meet in North Fork he pulls out a pair of Aces with brand new XS Edge on them. I ask how much? He won't take anything.
Most people who know Barry just see this as him being the guy he is. I'm thinking I AM SPONSORED FINALLY!
I am kinda a big deal now guys, so don't know how much longer I can post here. Also, please don't saturate my email with endless fan mail, cause I will disable it.
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Barry starts up Rainbow Oyster, 5.7
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Nice Kaukulators!
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We couldn't afford a professional photog, so I had to do my own sponsored photo shoot.
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TIS (this is shuteye)
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Barry's Resoles 559-855-4511
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I swear I adjusted the biner after the pic
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I know I've posted this before, but love this chicken head
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Did someone say chicken head?
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Barry climbing
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Barry on the Crux
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Onsite!
I think it was around this time that Barry knew he had made the right choice with his sponsorship. I mean he just saw me slay a 5.7 and 5.8, with no rest in between.
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Heading up Sweet Dreams, 5.8. Only three stars in the book, but to me it is the best in the area from what I have done.
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Cool sling at top of a somewhat airy last couple moves
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This TR was brought to you by Barry's Resoles and pro climber This Just In.
In all seriousness, thanks for the shoes Barry, you are the best!
this just in
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About the Author this just in is a climber from north fork. |
Comments
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 24, 2014 - 08:37am PT
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Remember to state on your tax form the value of the sponsorship. You don't want to go to jail for non payment.
Very cool looking climb, thanks for sharing another proud Shuteye climb.
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snarky
climber
Hoisington
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Sep 24, 2014 - 08:53am PT
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Every company in the U.S. could learn a thing about customer service from Barry. He's the best (even when he's telling you that you'd go longer between resoles if you had better footwork).
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
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Sep 24, 2014 - 09:38am PT
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fun lookin climb on some awesome lookin rock, nice!
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Sep 24, 2014 - 09:56am PT
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No wonder Barry told me he's two months out on my shoe resole. He's spending all his time climbing...
Just kidding Barry! take your time. I know my shoes will show up in the mail at the opportune time!!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Sep 24, 2014 - 10:07am PT
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We couldn't afford a professional photog, so I had to do my own sponsored photo shoot.
I know the feeling, HA!!
Beautiful stone, well done!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Sep 24, 2014 - 10:13am PT
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SIK!!!
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The Larry
climber
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Sep 24, 2014 - 10:19am PT
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Cool looking rock. Barry is the best resoler I've ever used. The dude is a master.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Sep 24, 2014 - 10:48am PT
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It just looks so damn good.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Sep 24, 2014 - 10:56am PT
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Thanks for the privilege of viewing your climbing.
We are not worthy!!!!
Looks like a fun day on the rocks
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Sep 24, 2014 - 01:45pm PT
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Wow. I must have ESP. I was thinking about Barry this morning, and the excellent job he did re-soling my original Fires and Huecos, and I was lusting for Shuteye climbing. Unfortunately, I'm stuck in the flats all week (hence no Face Lift either), but at least you gave me some pictures to slake my thirst. Thank you much.
John
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Sep 24, 2014 - 12:36pm PT
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Stoked for you two. Nice lil write up. Is there anything better than putting first class rubber to work on first class stone like that? Methinks not. Barry's the real deal. Nice job showing off the place and the dude.
Scott
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RyanD
climber
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Sep 24, 2014 - 01:42pm PT
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Radical, you are famous dude!!
Celeb discount!
Damn those routes look fine too Justin.
Great stuff.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Sep 24, 2014 - 01:52pm PT
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Meh...
j/k
Looks like you guys had a great time. Cool rock.. there's probably like 6 chickenheads in all of the North East and Quebec.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Sep 24, 2014 - 01:59pm PT
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There is only one Barry.
A true craftsman.
Damn right you two!
Photo assault!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Sep 24, 2014 - 06:09pm PT
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GNAR!!!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Sep 24, 2014 - 06:21pm PT
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Where'd you get those shiny new Aces? I loved those shoes . . . really good on the type of climbing shown in your awesome assortment of images!
I had the good fortune of chatting with Barry about a pair of shoes I sent in for a resole . . . quality DUDE! Send him your shoes.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 24, 2014 - 06:29pm PT
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And I ran, I ran so far away and I ran so far away, I couldn't get away. Adam Ant and a flock of chicken heads.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Author's Reply
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Sep 24, 2014 - 08:19pm PT
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Thanks guys for the comments . Yes Barry is the man.
Celeb local discount Ryan!
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Sep 24, 2014 - 10:12pm PT
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Beautiful rock; beautiful post. What is that route and where? Gotta do it. Those knobs and chicken heads are so cool!
Barry is not a master; he is a Jedi master. He put magical inserts in my Boreal Ballets and they edge up overhanging dimes now!
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Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
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Sep 24, 2014 - 10:30pm PT
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What a great trip report-- I love the look of these routes, obviously a stellar day out.
Barry has been my resoler for years, he's the man and it is good to see him in action. It's due to him that I've improved my footwork. Precision sure saves the rands.
This Just In-- I salute your promotion to sponsored climber-- looking forward to seeing where else you take your new shoes. ;)
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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Sep 25, 2014 - 10:22am PT
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I am way too shy for this kind of attention. I am not the "real deal", or "the man". I know deep down in side that I'm really just an overgrown 13 year old.
Whoa, Justin is one good photog! And all of that while belaying and climbing, too! (I wonder now if I was really on belay?) You the man, Justin! (I think I heard his girlfriend say it, too. It must be true!). Great TP, Justin.
They don't call this area Dreamscape for nothing. As you are climbing these walls, you really feel that you are somehow lost in a dreamworld. It is just too much perfection for the mind to grasp it all, it's just too dazzling!
Big shout outs to:
DMT (I can't remember your face either!).
The Larry, (been many years, Larry! I still remember you and Andrew tearing it up at the Needles).
The Chief (I miss your piss and vinegar, Rick!).
Jeleazarian, (I remember you dropping in on that cold winter day with 2-3 feet of fresh white powder outside, John).
Micronut (you are too kind, Scott! Hope to see you at the Tollhouse Faceoff).
Daphne (you have definitely improved your footwork, Daphne!).
Mark Force (you should be able to stand on dimes, Mark. Those were one stiff pair of boots!).
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 25, 2014 - 11:19am PT
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I wanna make a spam joke, but that just looks too fun, and if like to be there now!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 25, 2014 - 11:23am PT
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Nice! Shuteye is on my short list.
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dindolino32
climber
san francisco
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Sep 25, 2014 - 11:37am PT
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I've talked to Barry a couple times and he does seem to be a good man .
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 25, 2014 - 11:49am PT
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I wanna make a spam joke, but that looks to fun and scenic and I wish was there instead of this lunch room.
Cheers!
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Sep 25, 2014 - 12:23pm PT
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I was dancing at a nightclub in the Tower District of Fresno last year and it was real crowded. Somewhere in the crowd dancing some guy in a star trek looking getup jabbed me in the side. I looked up and it was Barry! Out on the dance floor cutting the rug with Leni! I hadn't seen Barry in awhile and we had to go out in the street to talk and catch up. A man of many talents and someone on the cutting edge of Trad Climbing in our area for sure. Good to see some long overdue Kudos to my old friend!!
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Sep 25, 2014 - 01:15pm PT
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Hats off to two-shoes-Barry and the world renowned TJI! Hope to have a celebrity sighting of either of you in the foothills sometime in the near future. (Which would be an unbelievable first in the case of TJI, and a second or third for Barry.)
You know I can't get enough of the knob pro shots, and that one slung chicken head ain't no chicken head - it's a chicken foot, or velociraptor foot perhaps! Awesome, juicy stuff.
Oh, and I have a pair of those black aces that've been resoled 3 times now. Maybe they need a 4th by Barry, 'cept man oh man I hate cooking my feet in them on a hot day! Was tempted to paint 'em white one slabby day in the sun.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Sep 25, 2014 - 01:44pm PT
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That rock is amongst the most delicious I have ever seen.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Sep 25, 2014 - 07:00pm PT
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Holds galore. That rock is really something. Cool trip report.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Author's Reply
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Sep 26, 2014 - 08:26am PT
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Haha Barry, pictures are more important than belaying. Leni, I promise I always had a good brake hand.
Nate, one day I'll run into you, might even sign an autograph for you, but please no pics.
Great story Radish, funny Barry and I were talking about dancing on the drive down.
Thanks for all the comments.
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sneville
climber
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Sep 26, 2014 - 08:50am PT
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Justin,
So I take it the road to the ridge is open? I was not sure with the recent fires.
Thanks
Sean
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Author's Reply
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Sep 26, 2014 - 09:15am PT
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Not sure about some of the stuff off of Minarets, but most others are open.
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Sep 26, 2014 - 09:40am PT
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Used to love my Aces! Was considering buying a new pair, they aren't as cool now though, because they changed the color. On hot days, if you get hot foot, just smudge some chalk over the black.
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