Trip Report
Beckey in Baja - climbing at 85!
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Monday April 7, 2008 3:26am
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Just back from Baja. Fred doesn't complain about sleeping in the dirt, waking up to frost on the bivy bag, rattlesnakes, cactus, or several meals of cold canned ravioli. It's all just another day in a lifetime of non-stop adventure.
Preparing for a wall. (ST's very own "Flex" is on the left.)
Fred leads "What Time is It? 4:20", Canyon Tajo
Fred on "Bartering with Beckey" a repeat of our 2003 FA. He led both pitches in smooth style.
An afternoon first ascent and then a cold cerveza in Baja.
Fred riding "Tajo", a frisky 4 year old.
Juan Maderita
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About the Author
Juan Maderita is a trad climber from San Diego, CA. |
Comments
hossjulia
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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My grandmother just turned 90, and while not as active as Fred is, she is in pretty darn good shape for her age. I expect we'll have another big party for her 100th!
I love hearing stories of Fred's continuing adventures, thanks for the pictures. He looks pretty comfortable on that horse!
One of my hero's, along with my grandparents, fer sure.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Doesn't look a day over 83.
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WanderlustMD
Trad climber
New England
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Look at the first pic.
For a second there, I thought he'd shaved his head! His hair blends perfectly with the background colors.
I saw his slideshow last fall, nice guy.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Released into general population, Idaho
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Fred was a hero of mine when I was 18 and he's still my hero now that I'm 48. Scary.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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That boy has more style in the step through pic than a thousand gym clowns!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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First met the Beckster 24 years ago in Cal.
Since then have had adventures in three states with him (sober, not sober, and definitely not sober).
Its pretty clear what brought Fred to Baja, just look to the left in the first photo.
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Gobie
Trad climber
Northern, Ca.
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I had the adventure of drivning from cali to zion once with Fred. It was his car and he insisted on driving. We crossed into other lanes at least a hundred times before we got to vegas. I just got used to waving at people as they drove by saluting us with fingers and horns. I have at least a dozen stories from that trip that would make you pee. Out of respect for my elders I think Ill leave it to that one.
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msiddens
Trad climber
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That's so friggen awesome
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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RE:
" That's so friggen awesome"
yeah and then some -
Fred Becky is my hero. Period.
unbelievable.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
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Great post, gives us all a little hope "maybe" we can still climb like Fred when we get that age! Last shot is what Tarbaby is gonna look like in a few years.
Peace
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA/Joshua Tree
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He's going to outlive us all.
Hell, he's already outclimbed us all.
Love the pic on the horse. Classic!!!
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WBraun
climber
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He looks good.
He's got that "look", you know the one.
The one that says, I've been there.
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chossyslab
climber
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F.B. is the ultimate. Nobody can touch him!!
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Becky on Horse, priceless, thanks for this cool post.
Fred Becky coming to drink your women and chase your beer.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Fred is an amazing guy, not just for his longevity and his climbs and climbing and his lifestyle, but also as he likes to (shall we say) "cherchez les femmes". Perhaps more in his head now, but anyone's who's on his/her feet and still trying at 85 is pretty awesome.
I know people who knew him 50 or 60 years ago, who say he's hardly changed in that time. Secret route notebook, always on the phone, always checking the weather, always on the move.
Once upon a time I had a chance to climb with Fred - we're acquaintances, and he's done some things with my brother. He called me very early one September morning, and tried to talk me into a trip. Told me he had it all lined up - another climber, helicopter, etc. Wouldn't tell me where it was, of course. I said I'd have to see if I could free up time, hoping to figure out a way - even the experience of a trip with Fred would be worth it. Asked that he call back later.
So I went about my morning activities, but was soon interrupted by some urgent news, and had to go over to my parents' house. Late in the morning Fred called back, even telling me where the destination was (generally), and saying that the pilot was all ready to go. I said I couldn't go, but didn't have the heart to tell Fred why.
It was September 11th, 2001 - no civilian aircraft was flying anywhere in the U.S. or Canada, or was to for days. I guess Fred hadn't heard, but at least he was saved a long drive into the interior for a flight that couldn't happen any time soon.
(The urgent news was, of course, a friend calling to tell me what was happening. I went to my parents to get my father to turn on the TV so we could see, as I don't have one.)
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ec
climber
ca
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Gobie,
"Rhymes with Orange." ROFLOL A dried-up one...
 ec
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Gobie
Trad climber
Northern, Ca.
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Exactly Eddie.
Never, ever, absoluteley never, eat the mystery meat out of the mystery crate.
Ok you trolled me. Ill share one more. We stop in Vegas for an all you can eat buffet. Of course with Fred is implied that this is all you can eat later as well. Its two days later and we are climbign in the back part of zion. Fred reaches into his jacket pocket and pulls out a napkin. Being the generous type that he is he offers some. With a disturbed look I pass and he then unrolls a new york staek that he had in his pocket from the Vegas buffet. BTW, we didint have an ice chest with us.
To be continued...
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
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Author's Reply
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Apr 7, 2008 - 11:31pm PT
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A couple more:
Those are not wrinkles, they're "character lines".
He would prefer to sit on the dirt, rather than use a chair while sorting gear.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Gobie,
you only THINK its as fresh as the Vegas buffet.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Super thread John!! Way to go Fred! What a Guy!!!
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WBraun
climber
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Juan M -- "He would prefer to sit on the dirt, rather than use a chair while sorting gear."
That's not dirt, that's the earth. Real guys like to sit close to the earth and soak up it's energy.
That's why he's so alive still ......
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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A friend of the Earth is a friend indeed...
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
http://tinyurl.com/4oa5br
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I L T S H O
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youngharz
Boulder climber
Santa Barbara
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Way to rally Fred and Felix!
That area sounds amazing!
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Migueloso
Trad climber
Tijuana,Baja
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Hi everybody! I had the privilege to share the bolts at the belay last saturday at Tajo with Fred and John....it is amazing how Fred can climb in a steady pace, better than a guy in his twenties!!!
I had climbed for almost 20 years in Mexico and other areas in the world but last saturday was very special, imagine the scenario....chating with a guy that had climbed with the best of the best say Heinrich Harrer and Yvon Chouinard.....it was a day that I never forget!!!He is definitively my first hero!!!
[url=http://www.slide.com/s/h3fyAjOc5T95G5wjId539t1IhsRxuIyM?referrer=hlnk]{{img}}h~~p://widget.slide.com/rdr/1/1/3/W/1d000000065c081d/1/139/kKtmKh0f3j9DgZ6g3KrzaCm7WagS47DY.jpg[/img][/url]
Fred on belay
[url=http://www.slide.com/s/czIm3eCG7z-Q0xG0qjgiBQyRTF58dwbF?referrer=hlnk]{{img}}h~~p://widget.slide.com/rdr/1/1/3/W/1d000000065c0b02/1/156/R3apCudO5T9HzGwYzuYbe2T-WVLa7bMk.jpg[/img][/url]
Fred rappeling
Thank you!!
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doublespiral
climber
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Apr 10, 2008 - 03:42am PT
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Whereabout in Baja is this? I live in southern Baja and would love to find some nice rock if it's anywhere close.
Many thanks!
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rich sims
Social climber
co
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Apr 10, 2008 - 08:38am PT
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Juan
I was hoping for some Pan AM Picks.
I saw a pic with ledges no?
Rich
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thelawgoddess
climber
seattle, wa
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Apr 10, 2008 - 11:03am PT
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Thanks for sharing the photos. I'm glad to see Becky's still at it! He's so lucky!!! :-)
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Apr 10, 2008 - 11:26am PT
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Somebody took a photo of Fred on the Wrinkles on Prodigal Sun, but I couldn't make him out,..
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
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Author's Reply
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Apr 10, 2008 - 12:24pm PT
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Rich: The Pan Am was the main objective. The approach was a bit more than he could chew.
Doublespiral: Sorry, you're several hundred miles away. It's in northern BCN.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Apr 10, 2008 - 12:50pm PT
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Hi Riley! I suspect it would be a challenge to get Fred to come to the FaceLift. He's sometimes in the Valley, but usually not for long, and not planned ahead. Hopefully someone can let him know, though, in case he's in the area. It would be good to have him, and other leaders of our community, attend and help out. It's intended to be an inclusive event, so the more the merrier - as long as people are helping out, that's all that matters.
Edit: I believe Ron's recommendation is known as the "bait and switch" tactic. But it might work.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Apr 10, 2008 - 01:06pm PT
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Just tell Fred that there are lots of hot single young women, you know, in their fifties and sixties.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Apr 14, 2008 - 02:06pm PT
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I wasn't sure if this belonged in iconic climbing photos or this thread, but it's one of my all time favorite historic climbing pics.
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Steve Wolford
Trad climber
White Salmon, WA
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Apr 18, 2008 - 10:08am PT
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What doesn't kill you makes you stronger. If when I am 80 and I have done 10% of the stuff Fred Beckey has done, I will be content. The guy is a animal and full of backcountry knowledge and still going strong. My hero for many years now. Someone needs to sit down with Fred and get him to write a extended biography. It would become the instant classic. There are so many stories there to tell. I believe he has been in a dispute with the Seattle Mountaineers for years now, and it is all our loss that he has not been publishing lately. Fred, if you are out there man, hear my call! We want to hear it all.
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Double D
climber
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Apr 18, 2008 - 10:19am PT
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Impressive, inspiring and monumental.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Apr 18, 2008 - 10:20am PT
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Yeah, given his previous autobiography, "Challenge of the North Cascades", came out in 1969...!
Range of Glaciers published in 2003. That's a heck of a doorstop. Impressive both in content, and in mass...
Wonder what the status of "Direct Beckey" is? Saw a preview of it in Bend in late March 2007...
-Brian in SLC
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Apr 18, 2008 - 01:30pm PT
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This is good! If we just keep at it, keep moving, keep clawing... and keep huntin' that punani.
I've only been reading about Fred for about 35 years...not long.
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FeelioBabar
Trad climber
One drink ahead of my past.
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Apr 18, 2008 - 01:48pm PT
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 18, 2008 - 02:12pm PT
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ya beta recognize!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Fred Power!
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