Trip Report
Best of Lee Vining Canyon
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Tuesday February 17, 2009 6:46pm
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While LVC is not quite in the same shape this year, here's a photo essay on California's most consistent ice venue.
Brian Biega, Hobnail Boots, Pitch 3, M5 WI4
Brian Biega, Hobnail Boots, Pitch 3, M5 WI4
Brian Biega, Hobnail Boots, Pitch 4, M5 WI4
clients, Hobnail Boots, Pitch 3, M5 WI4
Mark O'Brien, P2, Photo Shop, WI4
Frank Sainburg, Fisher King, P2, WI3 M3
Frank Sainburg, Fisher King, P2, WI3 M3
climbers, Tricouni Nails, P4, WI4
Keith Bortle, Tricouni Nails, P4, WI4
Eric Erikson, Heel/Toe, P1, WI5 M5
Eric Erikson, Heel/Toe, P1, WI5 M5
Eric Erikson, Heel/Toe, P1, WI5 M5
Scott Brown, The Death of Right and Wrong, M6 WI5
Mortimer, Almost Died Again, P1, WI7
Flanders!
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About the Author
Flanders! is a trad climber from June Lake, CA. |
Comments
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Feb 17, 2009 - 06:52pm PT
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Cool! Looks a little skimpy this year, compared to others...
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Author's Reply
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Feb 17, 2009 - 07:07pm PT
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Fattrad,
I couldn't take $ from a guy who raises his children to be evil :)
Flanders
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perswig
climber
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Feb 17, 2009 - 07:09pm PT
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What's with the straw? Bedding for the ubiquitous climber's sheep? :)
Thanks for the pics; had never seen the mixed routes before.
Dale
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east side underground
climber
paul linaweaver hilton crk ca
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Feb 17, 2009 - 07:27pm PT
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was up the canyon last week (skiing) saw some folk at the ice falls looks like it's got something to climb this season. sorry forgot the camera
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Feb 17, 2009 - 07:39pm PT
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Hi Doug - hope you are having a good season !
-Rob Yang
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Feb 17, 2009 - 07:44pm PT
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looks like a nice outing!
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Author's Reply
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Feb 17, 2009 - 08:04pm PT
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hey Walleye - never saw that you got saved on the Jesus thread. Don't miss the boat mate.
Rob - haven't seen you for awhile. Heard you had some recovery time last year? Me? it's been a challenging year, but getting up into LVC, a little work, a little training.
Flanders, Zippo's Frozen Booger, P1, WI4
The start has been alittle thin this season, so I thought I'd try to help it out a bit.
I found this really does help, as it glues the 1/4" smears to the wall better.
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altieboo
Social climber
Das Blase
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Feb 17, 2009 - 08:12pm PT
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I was in the canyon a few weeks ago. Will get pics up soon!
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slobmonster
Trad climber
SF (via NH & CO)
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Feb 17, 2009 - 08:18pm PT
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Doug, that is totally route enhancement. You are spending eternity in ethical purgatory :).
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Nohea
Trad climber
Living Outside the Statist Quo
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Feb 17, 2009 - 10:12pm PT
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Your looking good Doug! Thanks for sharing, I'm stuck in the sand and surf this winter but making the best of the tough conditions.
Aloha,
wil
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Feb 18, 2009 - 10:36am PT
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hahaha ! I'm going to try that next time Doug :D ooh, new cobras ..
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Feb 18, 2009 - 12:18pm PT
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Thanks Doug. Nice photo essay. Eric just never slowes down. Talked with him in the shop the other day. He's just a go-boy from hell. Wish I had his energy.
Ice doesn't look too bad this year.
Tony
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Feb 18, 2009 - 02:51pm PT
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Doug,
I remember Pete telling me about a climb that required removal of a boot for a heel hook or some other nonsense, is that Heel to Toe?
Kevin Mokracek
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Brian
climber
California
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Feb 18, 2009 - 03:14pm PT
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Nice shots! Where is "The Death of Right and Wrong," and what year was that photo taken? I've climbed all the other routes you photographed in one condition or another, but I can't say I've even seen that one.
Brian
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Feb 18, 2009 - 03:43pm PT
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LOL spray bottle, classic!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 18, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
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That's a very cool photo spread Mr. Nidever!
Always great to recognize the archetypal "E" body language as well.
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Author's Reply
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Feb 18, 2009 - 08:57pm PT
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Batrock,
You are correct about Heel/Toe: the last pitch goes up an ice pillar then hand traverses a good crack on an overhanging wall and finishes with a heel hook. This is normally done with boots and crampons on, although as the years go by it's harder to get the leg up there (maybe more crunches)
Brian,
The Death of Right and Wrong is between Heel/Toe and the Chouinard Falls. I've only seen it there once in 36 yrs of LVC.
Trevor Hobbs, unnamed, P3, WI4 M5
Trevor Hobbs, unnamed, P4, WI4 M5
Trevor Hobbs, unnamed, P4, WI4 M5
Trevor Hobbs, unnamed, P4, WI4 M5
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 18, 2009 - 10:10pm PT
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hey there all great pics.... i will never get over that feeling that once you latch into the stuff (the ice) that it will crack and split and on no!....
you guys are very brave with that ice...
whewwwwwwww....
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Feb 18, 2009 - 11:37pm PT
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Go Trevor go :D
You guys rock !!
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Decko
Trad climber
Colorado
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Feb 18, 2009 - 11:54pm PT
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Nice post Doug,
The ice was so sad in Colorado this year we went to Iceland and found a paradise that doesn't exist in this world much more.
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WhyCantGerbalsDrive
climber
Lee Vining, CA
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Feb 19, 2009 - 10:08am PT
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Nice pictures. Thanks for sharing.
What happened to the bloody picture from yesterday?
Where is Death of Right and Wrong in comparison to Bongo's Escape?
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Author's Reply
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Feb 19, 2009 - 12:08pm PT
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Nohea,
Good to hear from you, got to get you out of the sand and back on the ice. I haven't heard how the ice is in Jello's backyard this year, have you?
Gerbal,
Bongo's and the Death of ... are one in the same. Bongo's is such a lamename!
Re: the bloody face shot. I thought it was a nice action shot, something not uncommon in ice cliimbing, but the climber being the disaggreeable character he always seems to be, bitched about it.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Feb 19, 2009 - 07:24pm PT
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Great pictures Doug, Thanks!
Mony says Hi
Jeff
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Feb 19, 2009 - 11:06pm PT
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Hey Doug, great post! Lots of variety in LVC if you milk the terrain a bit.The ice on Malans has been pretty good for about a month, or so I hear, but the temps are going into the 50's tomorrow so I bet things will get bad pretty fast. Anyway, really nice pics...thanks again.
-Jello
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Feb 22, 2009 - 12:58pm PT
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Feb 22, 2009 - 01:55pm PT
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Cold One
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Mtnfreak
Trad climber
Lost on the West Coast
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Feb 23, 2009 - 06:49pm PT
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Doug,
Where is the Fisher King? [Edit: Belay my last - its the next route to the left of the Spiral Staircase, isn't it?] That looks like a great route! And when were these photos taken? I'll have to take a closer look at KF next week.
Chris
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Author's Reply
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Feb 23, 2009 - 06:57pm PT
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Chris, the Fisher King is a cool route, not very hard, just very interesting. It's just left of Spiral Staircase. Here is a link to Brian Biega's site, he has a good online topo
http://aboutmyadventure.com/directories/shared_photos/lee_vining/72-75.htm
Right side of the Bard-Harrington, sporting routes like Photoshop, Chimney Route, Photoshop CS
Scott Brown, Photoshop CS, P2, WI3 M5
Scott Brown, Photoshop CS, P2, WI3 M5
Scott Brown, Photoshop CS, P2, WI3 M5
Scott Brown, Photoshop CS, P4, WI3 M5
Chris Kulp, Spiral Staircase, P1, WI3
Chris Kulp, Spiral Staircase, P1, WI3
Keith Bortle, Spiral Staircase, P2, WI3
Keith Bortle, Spiral Staircase, P2, WI3
Keith Bortle, Caveman, P1, WI5
Keith Bortle, Caveman, P1, WI5
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WhyCantGerbalsDrive
climber
Lee Vining, CA
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Feb 23, 2009 - 07:45pm PT
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what aboot candlestick park eh?, doug?
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Anastasia
climber
Home
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Feb 23, 2009 - 10:17pm PT
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Wow Doug!
(Plus new meaning to the words "spraying on the mountain." )
AF
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Author's Reply
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Feb 24, 2009 - 08:38pm PT
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Jello,
do you have any pics from your day(s) in LVC?
Anastasia,
Never thought of "spray" quite that way before
Gerbals,
Candlestick Park has formed only once in all these
years, in Jan 97, remember the big flood year. That
was some great ice in LVC that season.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Feb 24, 2009 - 10:29pm PT
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Greg Epperson on the sharp end...Lee Vining...
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Feb 25, 2009 - 01:59am PT
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here's moi, last weekend
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Feb 26, 2009 - 03:22am PT
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Grape Race.
Fisher King.
Tree Route.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Feb 26, 2009 - 09:20am PT
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Wow that was 97' when Candlestick Park formed. I couldn't believe my eyes when I enterd the canyon that year when candlestick park was there. I had heard rumors of the Bard Harrington but had never seen it before that year. I picked and climbed a line that I thought was just a variation of the Bard Harrington, turns out to be Photo shop.
Flanders: Was Photo shops named based on the picture you used of it on your brochure years ago?
That same year in 97' I got to watch Richard Leversee whip off and then send the mighty Candlestick park. I wished I had the game to tick that one.
Photo shop in 97'
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Author's Reply
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Feb 26, 2009 - 01:25pm PT
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Brian,
Some great shots there! How I miss the fat BH days.
T2,
Photoshop was the pic I had used on the cover of my brochure
for awhile, that shot was also on the cover of a Patagonia
catalog, Dec. 99
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Feb 26, 2009 - 03:02pm PT
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Wow! Those thin runnels mixed in amongst all that California granite look sooooweet. It's really been a disappointing year here in Colorado.
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WhyCantGerbalsDrive
climber
Lee Vining, CA
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Feb 27, 2009 - 12:07am PT
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thanks for spraying Doug.
aren't there any pictures of candlestick park?
Brian, who's that lady in the movie poster?
where is Spray Bottle? it's not on the topo link above. does anyone have any pictures of someone climbing it
Gerbs
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Jingy
climber
Random Nobody
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Feb 27, 2009 - 12:15am PT
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fatty - just read that you entered into a bet for $1000... have you taken care of that diet challenge pay off.. yet?
hahhaaahahahahahahah
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Author's Reply
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Mar 2, 2009 - 02:43pm PT
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not exactly LVC, but cool. Lake Louise, Canada
Bruce Laiho, Louise Falls, P1, WI4
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Mike Mechant
Mountain climber
LA, Calipornia
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That Flanders scrambles up that frozen water pretty good, especially for an older gentleman with, let us say, less than 5.14 pull-up strength.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Doug, nice shot of Louise Falls .. wish I was there right now :)
Got out to LVC a couple of weeks ago -- looked like the Main Wall was coming in pretty decently, though at the time Spiral Staircase was pretty thin at the bottom still.
Didn't get a chance to climb anything except Chouinard & the Right Side though. Haven't gotten to a point in my recovery where I'm confident leading ice yet -- I should try that short line on Right Side sometime (rockermike's pic above).
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Anastasia
climber
Home
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Bump just because this is such a good thread!
:)
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Author's Reply
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Mar 2, 2009 - 09:08pm PT
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Rob,
good shot of the Main Wall! If you are still working up to leading again, you might consider the Roadside in June Lake. Contrary to reports, the Roadside has been good most of this season.
Mike,
I didn't know my pull-up prowess was so well known, I was recently clocked at .75, but have been training in secret.
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Mike Mechant
Mountain climber
LA, Calipornia
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Flanders: In fact, I've seen vid on YouTube of women in dresses firing off pull-ups in the Valley. It's possible beer was involved.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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great pictures... but aren't you holding out on us?
where's the video!?
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Author's Reply
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Mar 4, 2009 - 10:30am PT
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Ed,
this guy is a level 4 offender, his PO makes him wear a helmet cam at all
times that transmits via satellite to track his where abouts and
activities. Funny, the only footage was of a hole in my pants.
:)
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Author's Reply
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Mar 10, 2009 - 12:38pm PT
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Lee Vining Ice, March 7, 2009
climbers on Caveman, p1, WI 5
climbers on Caveman, p1, WI 5
Mark Stepovich, Heel Toe, p1, WI4, M5
Mark Stepovich, Heel Toe, p1, WI4, M5
Doug Nidever, Heel Toe, p2, WI 4, M5
Mark Stepovich, Heel Toe, p2, WI 4, M5
Mark Stepovich, Heel Toe, p2, WI 4, M5
Mark Stepovich, Heel Toe, p2, WI 4, M5
Mark Stepovich, Heel Toe, p3, WI 4, M5
Mark Stepovich, Heel Toe, p3, WI 4, M5
the lvc continues to be good, with the wet storms and very cold nights
Doug
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Mar 18, 2009 - 12:09pm PT
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Main Line (WI4) on Saturday: me on left, Justin on right, Pavel behind the camera -
Sunday we were fooling around on Chouinard, and watched Doug bringing some clients up -
They looked to be having a pretty good time :)
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Author's Reply
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Mar 18, 2009 - 12:57pm PT
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Rob,
good to see you getting out. You should be leading the way you climb though ! I guess it will take a bit of time to get on the sharp end again.
Doug
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 18, 2009 - 08:09pm PT
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Hey .... the guy in the red coat is cheating. He's stepping on the guy's head below him.
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Author's Reply
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Mar 19, 2009 - 09:38am PT
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That's why you where a helmet isn't it? I mean it would really
hurt with crampons without the helmet. come on! This is
alpine.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Mar 19, 2009 - 12:47pm PT
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Now your making me jealous Doug. Wish driving over there wasn't quite so far. What say we trade a day over there for a day on my route at Parkline??
Jeff
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Mar 20, 2009 - 11:05am PT
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Doug, I just realized that your pics of the climbers on Caveman from 7-March are my friends Karén and Peter !
I believe Peter got a few of you on Spiral Staircase -
Looks like they went skiing the next day in Tahoe -
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Author's Reply
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Mar 20, 2009 - 05:35pm PT
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Jeff,
How I do enjoy making folks jealous. LVC is a great place, with a good variety of ice and mixed routes. If you get bored with these, you can walk across the canyon and huff up "Master Cylinder" or "Silver Bullet" . I'll be over to check out your new route asap, has it had a mixed ascent yet?
Ed Escoto, Bailout Plan, P2, M4
Ed Escoto, Bailout Plan, P2, M
Ed Escoto, Fisher King, P2, WI3 M3 (we linked Bailout Plan with the upper section of a very thin Fisher King)
Rob,
Peter and Karen were fun to watch on Caveman, then up to Heel Toe finish. It is nice to see folks on these routes once awhile, even the local guides rarely, if ever, get on these routes.
Doug
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Author's Reply
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Mar 25, 2009 - 11:59am PT
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End of a good LVC season, might as well sit a ponder the important.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 17, 2011 - 10:28pm PT
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Lee Vining looks very cool.
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Oct 17, 2011 - 10:34pm PT
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EPIC thread!
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new world order-
climber
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Oct 17, 2011 - 10:45pm PT
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Damn, that mixed stuff still freaks me out.
Pure ice only, for this camper.
TFPU!
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Oct 18, 2011 - 12:26am PT
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SICK!
Thanks for the pics.
Stoked
Wes
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