OCT 1 2016
Cole Bradburn, Collin Wogenstahl, and Kory Kowallis.
Two years ago we went to the amazing Long Dong Silver and ended up running out of day light because of the longer than expected approach. We left expecting to come back the next day, but one thing led to another and we ended up not returning. We kept talking about going back but something about the Mancos Shale and unknown placements always made us think otherwise. But with a biner and fixed static line still on the tower we needed to go back and finish the job.

Last winter we were climbing in the nearby viewfinder towers just north of Hanksville, Utah and met a group of climbers that looked quite shaken. They started to tell us that they too had attempted Long Dong and found the anchor at the base of the climb(it had been rained off). They also had ripped the pitch before reaching the bolt. While they were not hurt because of the extremely steep and soft landing they had opted not to reattempt, but instead climbed Ben's Ass(5.8) to calm some nerves.

The time since our first attempt on Long Dong was spent researching new gear and towers as well as getting some more mileage under our belts in the desert tower arena. We accrued some Spectres, Toucans and Pika Crud Hooks and started to become more confident on differing qualities of mud. But we were still unsure how the Mancos Shale would respond to our otherwise good sandstone gear placements.

One day while at the local climbing shop, Mountainworks, a good friend brought up our previous Long Dong attempt. After some good sh#t talking and other banter we decided to finally plan the return trip.

We loaded up the OE and other necessary gear and buzzed down to camp for the night near Hanksville. We woke up and grabbed copious amount of coffee and breakfast at Blondie's and drove out. We aced the approach and began climbing instantly. The tower was skinnier and muddier than I had remembered. But we were more psyched than ever to be climbing on it again. We quickly remembered that the whole tower is kind like an expando flake. Most pieces would become loose as you placed the piece above it. Angles especially made the thing expand. So luckily we had all our smaller pins like I previously mentioned. Peckers, Toucans, and Tomahawks placed horizontally were especially key and terrifying.
We climbed higher and finally reached the last 6 feet of the tower. The 4 ft wide and 1.5 ft thick summit block. Since hearing of the anchor falling out we wrapped the summit block at its base then climbed past the anchor to straddle the summit. This tower had the smallest, most crumbly and terrifying summit I have ever seen. But to top it all off a big thunderstorm came in bringing lots of rain, which turned everything into thick and nasty mud, as well as lots of lightning which made it exciting and tingly while cleaning the tower.
But we had done it! We conquered Long Dong Silver. We Had an awesome day of climbing. I'd give it three stars for being the craziest piece of choss I have ever climbed! Crazy gear and crazy mud. Also: as you hammer on pins the other side of the tower continuously falls off...


The next party to go do this thing should bring more webbing for slinging the top. We put new stuff up there but with the Mancos Shale being black and salty the webbing is sure to go bad quickly.


Gear:
OE (To channel our inner Eric Kohl. http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2696472/When-Hell-Was-in-Session ) Umbrella, Toucans, Tomahawks, Peckers, spectre, Pika crud hook and a handful of smaller angles. Maybe a few cams... (We used one down low and one to get onto the top once you pass the anchor) One 70m gets you up and down. Safety Dog.