Trip Report
Black Canyon Ice--mini TR
Monday February 14, 2011 12:45pm
Yesterday (2/13/11) Ranger Mims cajoled me off my couch to bag the coveted third ascent of Shadowfax, a two pitch runnel in da' Black. Before we go any further here is a Mountain Project link to the route.

The last time I swung a tool must have been 23 years ago. The technology seems to have come a ways since then. Ahem. Another landmark for me was that this was to be my first climb since getting laid out by severe ulcerative colitis this summer. I spent four months lying in bed, running to the bathroom 15 times a day, and watching my weight plummet down to 100 pounds. That's another story though. For now it is more than enough just to be ALIVE!

Ranger Brent Mims has been a successful liaison between the NPS and Black Canyon climbers for many years now, as well as becoming one of my best friends.
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Brent working up a sweat on the approach.
Brent working up a sweat on the approach.
Credit: J. Werlin
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Joining us was the Mighty Wass, Nick Wasser, another long-time memebr of the Black SAR and all-around good guy (even if he did stuff two steaks in my Moccasyms at a SAR training a few years ago).
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Nick Wasser
Nick Wasser
Credit: J. Werlin
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The canyon is beautifully quiet in the winter. We post holed through the powder following some elk tracks.
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South Rim of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison
South Rim of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison
Credit: J. Werlin
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Then dropped into the top of the gully.
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Nick and Brent in the gully that feeds the seep.
Nick and Brent in the gully that feeds the seep.
Credit: J. Werlin
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A single rope rap, then a double takes you to the base of the frozen falls.
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Ranger Mims rapping in.
Ranger Mims rapping in.
Credit: J. Werlin
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You slide through the twists and turns, down the delicate chandeliers, and suddenly the view opens up; there is the Gunnison river far below, twinkling in the morning sun.
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Upper canyon at the Black.
Upper canyon at the Black.
Credit: J. Werlin
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After a spot of cinnamon tea, Brent chips and pings his way up the first pitch in good style.
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Brent on the sharp end.
Brent on the sharp end.
Credit: J. Werlin
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Wasser takes the point, tip-toeing his way like Baryshnicov in the Nutcracker through the frozen drips.
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Nick Wasser picking the gnarls.
Nick Wasser picking the gnarls.
Credit: J. Werlin
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It was at this point that my camera gave me the finger and flashed "Battery Exhausted" (or maybe frozen), so that is the end of the pics. :(

I flailed, thrutched, and scratched my way up somehow--thankfully not dropping one of the shmancy leashless tools (named after a dinosaur or snake) that Nick loaned me. 25 years in home building has given me a decent hammer swing, but my feet--not pretty.

Boy, it felt good to get out again.







  Trip Report Views: 2,211
J. Werlin
About the Author
J. Werlin is a social climber from Cedaredge, CO.

Comments
skywalker

climber
  Feb 14, 2011 - 01:01pm PT
Hey good on you. Glad you are well. Thanks for posting. I want to say that Brent is an awesome liaison in the Black. I remember heading for the PHDG for Lost Cities and we went down the wrong gully. We returned and waited for the ranger station to open and Brent gave us a personal ride to the parking area and practically walked us to the entrance. He was a bit concerned about time but wished us good luck and checked back with us at the end and we were safely out. Oh and then there was the rescue on Astro-dog...I think he was up all night assisting. Great guy great liason.

Cheers!!!

S....
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Feb 14, 2011 - 11:48pm PT
Nice! Looking forward to the Black this Spring.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Feb 14, 2011 - 09:42pm PT
Very nice! Thanks for sharing this with us. And very happy to see you are feeling better. I know it's been a rough year. Let's make plans for more trips!
BriGuy

climber
black hills, south dakota
  Feb 14, 2011 - 10:27pm PT
Sick! Hope you make it out again soon and please share another TR with fresh batteries next time.

1. Look good
2. Have fun
3. Be safe
; )
philo

climber
  Feb 14, 2011 - 11:47pm PT
J. Werlin, that was great, TFPU.
Good on ya all for going on down.
Ice climbing in the Black is an almost surreal experience.
There are big long routes that occasionally form up that to my knowledge have not yet received an FA. Serious business getting to them then full commitment to get off.
flakyfoont

Trad climber
carsoncity nv
  Feb 15, 2011 - 12:24am PT
nice adventure... looks like good conditions
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Feb 15, 2011 - 01:00am PT
argh, everyone is getting out.


I didn't know there was ice there.


here's to hoping the weekend is nice!
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
  Feb 15, 2011 - 01:09am PT
Jeremy - good stuff! Glad to see you are getting out and about again :-)
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Feb 15, 2011 - 01:23am PT
Sweet!

I have gotten the finger from the "battery exhausted" camera many times myself.
I've gotten such a good case of noia from it that I've taken to carrying extra batteries at all times.

'Cept when I forget.....


Thanks!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Feb 16, 2011 - 10:54pm PT
Nice TR, glad you made it out for some climbing.
glad you are felling better!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Oct 17, 2011 - 09:47pm PT
Good looking adventure
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