Two years ago, I watched a Sender Films video “The Sharp End”. It had a segment of Eastern European sandstone tower climbing. It showed massive runouts between ring bolts, and climbers jamming knotted cord into cracks with wooden spoons. "Protection". No metal protection allowed due to the soft rock. I had just started gym climbing, and it blew my mind how radically varied rock climbing can be. I hoped to someday experience these ethics myself. I am fascinated by the history and stories of climbing. This weekend I got to climb these very towers! It did not disappoint. I received just a taste of the local style, but this place is as wild as I had dreamed.
When I heard of the possibility of work trips to Poland, I knew I’d find a way to experience the sandstone towers. I reached out to a guide I found online, but wasn't sure what to expect.
A collection of knots, my rack for the weekend
A proper knot placement. They can actually be very secure! Still don’t want to fall on one
The ring bolts. These are spaced every 5-15 meters on a route. Also used as a belay anchor for multipitch. These go in about a foot into the rock
Leading the second pitch of the 1930s route up Prachov’s Needle. Only one bolt on this pitch, at the base of the 40ft headwall, with airy 5.9/5.10 climbing above. Unbelievable that this was done 80+ years ago.
A pitch of only knots for protection.
A 25ft tall mid 5.10. Protected with one rusty bolt 15ft off the ground.
This place is beautiful
Every single tower has a log book. Some as old as 1960s. It is expected to sign in your name, date, and route for every summit.
My favorite lead of the weekend: An 80ft hand/fist crack called “The Whip”. The name is fitting - ring bolts at 25ft, 45ft, 60ft, 70ft. It’s best to just not fall here.
Such a great weekend in a unique place. I am glad this is not my home crag, as it would be way too mentally exhausting. An amazing experience to get a taste of the ethics, though. I was climbing at the easy end of the spectrum here. I saw many other wild routes, but I’ll save those stories for in person.
Climb on!
Brent