Trip Report
Brassnuts and Edge's Excellent Adventure.
Monday June 9, 2014 11:22pm
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Gotta love the Taco. I got an email from Dave (Brassnuts) asking me if I'd like to climb today as the weather looked good. Turns out our new apartment my wife & I just moved into is two good golf shots from Dave's home (maybe 3; I suck at golf), so in the neighborly spirit I had to skip work and join him for the day. It took me 5 minutes to walk over this morning; it would have been quicker but I stopped to admire the S Boulder wildlife.
We decided on Lumpy Ridge as I had only climbed there twice before, both times in the early 80's. Unfortunately the roadwork on the drive in delayed us 45 minutes, setting the stage for a leisurely pace. A stroll in the park, really.
We started on FEMP, and Dave drew the incredible 5.9 fingers & hand crack.
Team 106 (combined ages)
This also put Dave in line to lead the impeccable finger crack finish of Cheap Date for P4.
The walk off was painful in our climbing shoes.
One of the two climbs I had done 32 years ago was J Crack. John Rosholt had lead all the pitches, and I recall it being scary and hard. Dave suggests we go for it, and asks if I want the long 5.9 pitch or the crux pitch. Dammit, I have to redeem myself, I'll take the crux.
We finished via the Cave Exit, probably the most awkward and difficult 5.7 I've ever done. It was the closest to falling I came all day. At least it deposited us on the descent trail.
Brassnuts was trying to get used to his new helmet.
Another painful descent in TC Pros and we were back at the packs. 9 pitches was enough, we leave to go home.
"For every step you take into the forest, you must make as many to return."
Thanks to Brassnuts for the inspiration and invitation! Cheers.
Edge
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About the Author Edge is a trad climber from Boulder, CO. |
Comments
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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excellent indeed!
and I like the brain-bucket!!
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RyanD
climber
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Jun 10, 2014 - 12:41am PT
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Good job you guys! Looks like some great climbing. TFPU.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Jun 10, 2014 - 04:37am PT
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Thanks for a look back at beautiful Boulder county![or is it Larimer?]
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Jun 10, 2014 - 05:33am PT
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Having great neighbors sure makes for a great community! I sure need to get out there one of these days, thanks for a climbing post!!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 10, 2014 - 05:47am PT
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Haha nice! I think the cave exit is the best part!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jun 10, 2014 - 06:18am PT
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Bravo! I was surprised that BN forgot his camera - so happy you had yours. I'm equally happy with his newest piece of climbing gear - his helmet. :)
What an amazing day weather wise! Glad you are in the neighborhood Edge. I imagine there are many more TRs in the future.
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Jun 10, 2014 - 06:26am PT
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Ahh, the Boulder lifestyle! Lucky boys! TFPU
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Edge
Trad climber
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Author's Reply
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Jun 10, 2014 - 06:46am PT
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Haha nice! I think the cave exit is the best part!
Jaybro, that's just twisted. I figure it's one of those moves that's harder for tall people and Brassnuts put me on it* to make up for me placing tall gear in the J Crack headwall before launching into the traverse.
*BN will deny this.
Edge, I think Boulder is good for you!
Ain't that the truth! I love where I live and am grateful every day.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Jun 10, 2014 - 06:49am PT
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awesome edge,
i'm pretty sure i did that exact same
linkup to the cave exit
many years ago with cousin robby.
maybe we started on fat-city...
that was a good pitch.
thanks for taking me along.
estes is great stomping grounds.
you should check out the y-colouir on mt. ypsilon.
and also the notch colouir on longs is a good day.
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Jun 10, 2014 - 07:08am PT
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Good stuff, glad you found a cool partner near by, sounds like many adventures to come, glad you guys had a great time, place looks awesome!! Still have to make it out to CO.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jun 10, 2014 - 07:14am PT
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Nice edge. Been to Estes quite a bit as I have to brothers that live in winter park, but somehow we never seem to get much done at lumpy. Those both look like great routes. How was the traverse?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jun 10, 2014 - 07:22am PT
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Sweet!
Late start + Lumpy hike + 9 pitches + hard pitches = Awesomeness!
We did that hike enough times a few years back. Well worth it though.
Good job fellas!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 10, 2014 - 07:32am PT
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Nice!
You youngsters sure do love to play.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jun 10, 2014 - 07:45am PT
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Nice!, J-Crack, that brought back memories, especially that you did it before with The Gambler, miss him.
BITD when I first did J-Crack my partner was wearing his brand new EB's and I was in my RR blue suede shoes. He was bitchin about foot cramps most the way, I just stuck those Robbins nose first, straight in that bottoming crack and my feet were happy the whole time.
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
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Jun 10, 2014 - 07:50am PT
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tfpu
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 10, 2014 - 07:52am PT
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Yay for climbing content, photos of Lumpy and of course duck butts!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jun 10, 2014 - 07:53am PT
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^^ Agreed. The duck butts were a sweet surprise. :)
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Jun 10, 2014 - 08:35am PT
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Good fun craggin with neighbor Edge, a beautiful June day! I hadn't seen the post flood damage/clean up in N. St. Vrain canyon or upper Estes Valley (Twin Sisters area) - incredible, major reconstruction, huge slides etc.
Today my feet are reminding me of Lumpy's flared cracks ;-)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jun 10, 2014 - 08:40am PT
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For a second there I got all excited and thought BN had taken you birding.
Oh, well, what y'all did looked like an acceptable alternative, even if you
did have to put up with the conditions.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 10, 2014 - 09:09am PT
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Another idyllic Springtime in the Rockies tableau!
Nice.
So ... Did you guys hold hands? hahahaha
I remember that about Femp too Dave. This was my first route at Lumpy and with Katy Cassidy partnering.
The thing is like a lowish angled V-shaped trough lined with crystals that kind of chew on your feet. At the time I wished I were instead hanging out of a steeper crack. Yosemite sure can spoil first impressions of other granite areas!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jun 10, 2014 - 09:21am PT
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Looks like a lot of fun!! But the camera is a little fuzzy :(
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jun 10, 2014 - 09:47am PT
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nice job "Team 106"!!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jun 10, 2014 - 09:56am PT
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Looks like tooooo much fun! Getting out in the middle of the work week. Good job.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Jun 10, 2014 - 10:02am PT
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Excellent TR. Stay strong - the skull will evolve to fit the helmet in due time...
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dagibbs
Trad climber
Ottawa, Ontario
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Jun 10, 2014 - 10:20am PT
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Looks awesome!
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Jun 10, 2014 - 11:47am PT
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Most Excellent!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jun 10, 2014 - 01:07pm PT
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Is it just me, or is this starting to seem like an "adventure series"..."Brassnuts and eeYonkee", "Brassnuts and RickA", "BrassNuts and Mark (whatever his handle is)". And now, "Brassnuts and Edge". It's starting to seem like the Hardy Boys or something (without the cool titles like 'The Secret Panel'). Okay, so maybe I'm jealous. After all, I was an early participant in this adventure series (haven't seen a dime, by the way).
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jun 10, 2014 - 01:09pm PT
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^^ Yeah! Where is the BrassNuts and Crimpergirl installment?
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Jun 10, 2014 - 02:11pm PT
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I agree that the titles could use some spicing up.
Hopefully that is in the works. In many cases the climb name or a
pitch nickname could fit.
"Brassnuts and Edge in the Excellent Adventure of the Cave Exit" or
some such.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Jun 10, 2014 - 03:13pm PT
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Lumpy looks really good. Nice TR. Thanks
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Jun 10, 2014 - 03:42pm PT
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I expected you guys to get on the Edge. I mean... after all...
The bombay chimney isn't that hard.
Looks like a great time out. I'm around and can play on weekends.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 10, 2014 - 03:52pm PT
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Thanks for sharing a pleasant day of climbing. Looks Gneiss!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Jun 10, 2014 - 04:16pm PT
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Nice!!!
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
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Jun 10, 2014 - 04:51pm PT
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Brassnuts and Edge teaming up???? Now there is a dynamic duo. PULEEEEEZE keep the trippy reports coming.
Fun fun fun
Susan
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Brian
climber
California
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Jun 10, 2014 - 05:57pm PT
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Isn't J-Crack 5.11 something? Or am I remembering something else? I remember a really thin crack with careful feet right below the topout, before the cave?
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jedster
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Jun 10, 2014 - 05:59pm PT
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Hey! That's me lurking in photo number nine! Pleasure meeting you two out there. -Jed.
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Edge
Trad climber
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Author's Reply
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Jun 10, 2014 - 06:46pm PT
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Jedster, nice to meet you too; thanks for letting us play through on J Crack. Here's another pic of just you and your partner, although it was only taken with my phone and the raking light was washing things out a bit.
Mike M wrote: How was the traverse?
Mike, it wasn't nearly as bad as I remembered. You chug up the continuance of the J Crack until the obvious 15-20' .11c headwall. Place gear as high as you dare without pissing off your belayer, then step down about 6 feet and truck straight right for 15-20'. There are sharp edges for the hands when there are no feet, and crystals for your feet when your palms are padding. If you came off at the end you'd take a heck of a pendulum but it's totally clean. 5.10a seems about right, but I admit to letting out a little yelp of relief when I latched the flake.
From there you grovel up a 5.2 flake and hold off on pro until you get over the crack, which your second will thank you for.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jun 11, 2014 - 04:17am PT
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Hey Edge,
Glad your enjoying life out there in sunny Colorado. The black flies are still biting up here in NH. Your not missing anything!
I may visit Wyoming in August, as I miss the West.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Jun 11, 2014 - 04:50am PT
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This IS the best thing about the Forum - connecting people who otherwise might remain strangers.
The only thing I don't understand about this TR is the walk off in rock shoes! I use the ultralight sneakers everybody makes now and carry them in the rope bag worn as a backpack. It's so lightweight you barely know it's there. I'd rather do an approach in those and than a walkoff in climbing shoes.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Jun 13, 2014 - 08:47am PT
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Looks like fun.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 13, 2014 - 10:53am PT
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After reading this TR and looking at your wonderful pictures, I really wish I could join you two to make Team 169 -- but I doubt I could keep up with you. Thanks for a marvelous post of what certainly looks like an excellent adventure.
John
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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Jun 13, 2014 - 01:47pm PT
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Excellent, thanks for sharing.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jun 13, 2014 - 04:26pm PT
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Nice:)
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Jun 13, 2014 - 05:10pm PT
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Sweet! Too bad the weather sucked.
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WanderlustMD
Trad climber
New England
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Jun 14, 2014 - 08:32am PT
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Makes me want to move to CO
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Josh Nash
Social climber
riverbank ca
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Jun 14, 2014 - 09:54am PT
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That's so awesome. Lumpy ridge is such a cool place. I'd like to go back someday.
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