Trip Report
Brazilian trying to figure it out the best destinations for his sabbatical year. I need some help!

by lucasrocha
Saturday February 4, 2017 9:52am
Hi my name is Lucas Rocha from Brazil and I'm planning my gap year. I wonder if I can get any tips from you guys. I love both sport and boulder styles. I need some feedback about my plans. Thanks guys !!! I will start from april 2018 till december

Can u guys give me some tips about my schedule?


https://drive.google.com/open?id=1AEL8VfjOeYv4-3u9OTLcXfUH3xI&usp=sharing

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lucasrocha 		About the Author
lucasrocha is a boulder climber from São Paulo.

Comments
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Feb 4, 2017 - 02:06pm PT
4 weeks at Red River Gorge but only one week in Yosemite? Really?
No love for Red Rocks, Nevada?
Estes Park, Colorado? The Needles, California? Granite Mt, Arizona?
Devil's Tower, Wyoming? Cottonwood Canyon, Utah? City of the Rocks, Idaho?
lucasrocha

Boulder climber
São Paulo
Author's Reply  Feb 4, 2017 - 02:39pm PT
Hi Reilly, those places are incredible but I don't do trad. I still prefer sport climbing and bouldering. I Know that red river gorge is supposed to be the best place for sport climbing....Do you think Joe's Valley is gonna be good for climbing in june? I will look for some spot in Colorado...

thanks for the info
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
  Feb 4, 2017 - 02:47pm PT
Good chance Joe's will be super hot in June
lucasrocha

Boulder climber
São Paulo
Author's Reply  Feb 4, 2017 - 03:03pm PT
Super hot you mean impossible to climb? or i can climb till 11am take a break and after 5pm i can climb again? what will u do if u were me?
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
  Feb 4, 2017 - 03:15pm PT
You could consider Squamish in July. Great bouldering, lots of sport climbing just up the road and your money will go further than in the US. It would suit you more than Yosemite
lucasrocha

Boulder climber
São Paulo
Author's Reply  Feb 4, 2017 - 03:24pm PT
thanks AP... i ll look for some information
aspendougy

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Feb 4, 2017 - 06:09pm PT
If you like sport climbing more, I would suggest you spend less time in Yosemite Valley, with more time in Tuolumne Meadows. Also, check out the East Side, Buttermilks, etc. do Pratt's crack.
Byran

climber
Half Dome Village
  Feb 5, 2017 - 02:40am PT
Do Wyoming in June/July - Ten Sleep, Wild Iris, Sinks Canyon, all limestone sport climbing. Maybe also Spearfish and the Rushmore side of the Needles in South Dakota.

Then move over to Squamish for the month of August, some sport and a shitload of bouldering.

Then work your way south. September in Smith Rock Oregon for more sport climbing.

Rocktober in Yosemite Valley, there's actually a few great sport crags there, and excellent bouldering. Head to Tuolumne before the pass closes and get in some more world class bouldering with crisp temps up there.

Bishop during November, amazing bouldering at the Happies, Sads, Druids, and Milks. And great sport climbing at the ORG (and also Pine Creek if it hasn't snowed a bunch yet).

Then in December swing through Red Rocks and Jtree on your way back to wherever.

That's what I would recommend. But Rocklands could also be a sweet alternative. The northern route also might not be the most convenient if you for sure have to visit your sister in Texas during may. But you could still maybe make it work by heading up through Colorado and hitting some climbing areas there on the way to Wyoming (I haven't climbed much in CO so not sure what to recommend besides maybe Rifle)
lucasrocha

Boulder climber
São Paulo
Author's Reply  Feb 5, 2017 - 02:40am PT
Hey guys ...i did some changes....

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1AEL8VfjOeYv4-3u9OTLcXfUH3xI&usp=sharing

now i have march to july
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Feb 5, 2017 - 12:55pm PT
Expand your horizons.....the States are known for trad. Europeans, Asians and South Americans travel here to develop their trad climbing.
Byran

climber
Half Dome Village
  Feb 5, 2017 - 06:03am PT
When you're going from Kentucky to Joe's Valley are you driving across the US or flying? If your flying into Salt Lake and then driving to Joe's from there, you should definitely spend a week or so at Maple Canyon which is right on the way. It's an excellent sport crag with some of the most unique rock I've climbed on. Probably one of the top 5 sport climbing destinations in the US. Its good in May if that works with your timetable.

And also if you're going to be spending some time at the Red River Gorge, you should also probably check out the New River Gorge, which is just a few hours away. I've never climbed at either, but most people I've talked to who've spent a lot of time out there say that the New is the better of the two. They share the same climbing season.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Feb 5, 2017 - 10:48am PT
It is entirely possible to try to do too much on such a trip...

after a youth of attempting to do more and failing, I have fallen into the habit of just staying in one place longer and getting to know it better. My presumption is that I'd have time in the future to visit the other spots, and that a quick trip isn't always that rewarding. Of course in my old age I am questioning the premise, then donini posts up, and he's much older than I.

I think the quote attributed to Alex Lowe states my position the best:
"the best climber is the one having the most fun"

Whatever you do, have fun... big fun...
nopantsben

climber
europe
  Feb 6, 2017 - 07:53am PT
My one year climbing only sport and bouldering would be:
Winter: Fly to Barcelona and rent a car and climb in Spain. If the weather looks good in Paris, hit Fontainebleau for as long as the conditions are fine, once it looks bad, return to Spain. In spring, move to southern france / especially ceuse, before the crowds come.
In late June, Ceuse will get crowded, fly to rocklands.
Stay there for 2-2.5 months.
In September, fly to the red river gorge, and stay there for 3 months till your time is up and fly home.
EdwardT

Trad climber
Retired
  Feb 6, 2017 - 08:06am PT
If you're planning on spending and entire month at the Red, look into other sport areas, including The New River Gorge, The Obed, Hidden Valley. There's also a boatload of kickass bouldering in the Southeast, including Boone, Stone Fort, Rocktown and Horse Pens 40.
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