California Central Coast Pictorial: Part 3 Figueroa Mountain

A few years back one time local Steve Edwards said he saw some rocks above Lake Cachuma and that was enough to send Brandon Thau and I searching for an entire day. We found the Fin, put up 3 routes, and then I came back solo and started hiking. I found the crag but thought it was choss. Then I went back with Ken Klis and over the next 2 years about two dozen routes went up. Cracks, Trs, and a couple sport routes. We tried to minimize our impact by leaving a lot of routes as Trs. We hope it stays that way. Climbing here during spring is amazing, and I’ve even climbed here while it was snowing. Pretty unique for the Central Coast. PM me if you’re interested in the small color guide.

This is the Fin. The 5.6 arete Nine Months was put up while both our wives were 9 months pregnant. We love our women! The whole blade of rock is only 3' thick.

This is another shot of the Fin.

Ken on Wildflower Tower. The original tower ascent was done via a rope trick, throwing a string and rock over the summit and then tying a rope on and dragging it over. Nice but way sketchy. If the rope rolled, so did you!

Wildflower Tower in the fog. The Needle and Haystack Wall are behind it.

Ken Klis and me on summit of Wildflower Tower.

How many can you get on top?

The famous ploe cam.

Aquarius is the easiest way up at 5.8. Don’t blow the 2nd clip.

Brian Utterback on the OW Fat Badass 5.8. He has cleared the OW and roof and is on the upper face.

Utterback on Fig Picker 5.6. A short line to a cool summit.

Utterback on Daddy’s Girl 5.8. A longer line to the same cool summit.

Ken on the .10 arete.

Chris on Pine Cone Alley 5.9 on Hidden Dome.

Jon Hanlon on Cactus Club 5.7. Fun face to crack. Mind the Yucca.

Hanlon on the classic Hands Down 5.8. Hands down the best face route at Fig. It'd be good anywhere.

Hanlon on Map to Outerspace 5.8. What's great about Fig is the fact that there are some good cracks.

The popular Pine Cone Alley on Hidden Dome.

Klis on Glory Daze .11a on Hidden Dome. I climbed here once and it started to snow. You could still see the ocean and the islands. Trippy...

Kristi Hall on Pine Cone Alley.

Well, there you have it, an insider's tour of the Central Coast. Hope you get some this holiday season,

cheers, Tom