It's Better with Bacon 5.8

 
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Lover's Leap, Hogwild


Lake Tahoe, California, USA


Trip Report
Chillaxing at the Leap
Tuesday May 22, 2012 12:57am
A couple of my climbing buddies are recovering from injuries right now, so this little tale is for them :)

Not-very-early on Saturday morning I met Eric at the Strawberry Lodge, having had their awesome strawberry belgian waffles. He was feeling a little under the weather after a concert the night before. The previous weekend I'd gone up Shasta, and usually during the week I don't get quite enough sleep, so a nice relaxed day sounded like just the ticket for the both of us. We set out for the Hogwild area.

I decided to warm up on the eponymous route -

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Looking down Hogwild (5.7) from anchor
Looking down Hogwild (5.7) from anchor
Credit: rhyang
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We then set out for It's Better with Bacon, having brought suitable tiny nuts, which I just had to use. I linked the first two pitches.

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looking up the cruiser first pitch of It's Better With Bacon (5.8)
looking up the cruiser first pitch of It's Better With Bacon (5.8)
Credit: rhyang
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Eric headed up and linked the next two.

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Eric leading pitch 4 of It's Better With Bacon (5.8) -- we lin...
Eric leading pitch 4 of It's Better With Bacon (5.8) -- we linked p1/p2 and p3/p4.
Credit: rhyang
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I'd never actually done the last pitch to the top, so I took that one .. it was a little dirty, but certainly worth doing for the views.

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Main Wall, from the top of Hogwild
Main Wall, from the top of Hogwild
Credit: rhyang
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East Wall, from the top of Hogwild
East Wall, from the top of Hogwild
Credit: rhyang
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A party topping out on the Hogsback
A party topping out on the Hogsback
Credit: rhyang
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We rapped off a tree at the top, and made our way down the rest of the rap stations with our 70m cord. It was starting to get warm, so we decided to call it a day. Good times !

Sunday I met Steve at the lodge, and again enjoyed one of their wonderful breakfasts. We decided to go do Better With Bacon again, since he hadn't done it and I enjoyed it so much the day before. This time he got the first pitch.

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Steve on It's Better With Bacon (5.8)
Steve on It's Better With Bacon (5.8)
Credit: rhyang
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I took the next three, linking p2/p3.

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Looking down pitch 3 of It's Better With Bacon (5.8)
Looking down pitch 3 of It's Better With Bacon (5.8)
Credit: rhyang
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We decided to rap off from the pitch 4 anchors this time.

I had a hankering to go do Harvey Wallbangers Right, since the last time I was over there the wide section was wet, and I didn't have a #5 cam with me. It was warming up, and we did some talus-hopping & bushwhacking to get over to the base of the Hogsback. Fortunately no buzzworm encounters, heh.

Steve took the first pitch.

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Steve on first pitch of Harvey Wallbangers Right (5.7)
Steve on first pitch of Harvey Wallbangers Right (5.7)
Credit: rhyang
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It was a pretty nice pitch for the grade, I have to say ! I was psyched to place my almost-new red Wild Country #5 on the second pitch. Pulling over the lip was as much fun as Rat Race at Pinnacles, and I may have let out a whoop, just for the sheer joy of it.

By the time we were walking off, the heat of the day was really bearing down on us. It was time for ice cream :)

  Trip Report Views: 3,011
rhyang
About the Author

Comments
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
  May 22, 2012 - 01:11am PT
mmm ICE CREAM!

nice pics, looks fun
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
  May 22, 2012 - 12:36pm PT
dude, nice stuff! i always have wanted to do both hogwild and its better with baccon. these nics pics make em ever so appealing. god the weather is so nice right now ...
Capt.

climber
some eastside hovel
  May 22, 2012 - 10:43am PT
Any buzzworms yet??
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  May 22, 2012 - 10:47am PT
Conditions look good. Thanks for the TR...
Daphne

Trad climber
Northern California
  May 22, 2012 - 12:46pm PT
Woo hoo! My abundant thanks for the vicarious experience. And how cool about the #5. Where are you going to place it next?
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
  May 22, 2012 - 06:10pm PT


No buzzers Cap just Belgian waffles cool stone and hot sun.

Thanks Rob. Good Climbing with you.

michaeld

climber
Beta Sprayer at your Gym
  May 22, 2012 - 06:17pm PT
Nice TR! I remember doing Harvey's Wallbanger Right as my second or third lead, knapsack and deception begin first or third, any which way.

I had no big gear. That wide section was something very new to me. I didn't know what to do or how to go by doing it. so I just jammed my arm in it and started pretending it was a really small chimney (which i later found out are called offwidths). Then after it, looking strait up that crack that went over a bulge, I was sure gonna die. I looked around and couldn't think of anything. I jammed my left hand in, going up with my right, I found the jug crack. TOP OUT!


I'll have to try that Bacon route.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  May 22, 2012 - 06:36pm PT
Sweet job, thanks!
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Lover's Leap, Hogwild - It's Better with Bacon 5.8 - Lake Tahoe, California, USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
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