Trip Report
Clyde Minaret- day-hike of SE Face (Direct var. IV 5.9+)
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Sunday November 18, 2012 2:15pm
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Bryan and I wanted to climb another long route in a day. Since we climbed more than a few '50 Classics' together, we wanted to tick off another one. We started from Agnew Meadows trail-head some time before the sun rise. We got to the base of the route around 9am and took the 'Direct" variation. I led the first pitch and than we swung leads, attempting to stay on the route. After the first two pitches the route finding was not straight forward, till we reached the big dihedral. Climbing in the dihedral seemed tough for a 5.8, but original and enjoyable. After topping the route we simul climbed the rest of the ridge. We had a few snacks on the summit and took a long break up there to enjoy the scenery. Than we down-climbed the "Rock Route" back down. The Rock Route was loose, but interesting. Since neither of us has done the Rock Route before it took us a while to get down to the base of the peak, which we managed just after it got dark. We did not make it down in time to get a pizza, but Denny's in Bishop was opened!
PS: I thought this route was much tougher than North Arete of Bear Creek Spire, South Face of Charlotte dome and even Fish Hook Arete on Mt. Russell. Even though the rock is not granite, the climbing was surprisingly awesome.
And here are the photos:
Vitaliy M.
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About the Author
Vitaliy M. is annoying gym climber from San Francisco. |
Comments
Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Nov 18, 2012 - 02:28pm PT
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That's such an awesome peak! Congrats.
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hungry man
Trad climber
around
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Nov 18, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
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Nice pictures of the Minarets! Very cool!
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RyanD
climber
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Nov 18, 2012 - 03:08pm PT
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Nice TR Vitaliy, that route looks awesome. And to be on top of a Minaret & get a view of that iconic range from one of its summits must have been amazing! Is the lake in the approach photos Minaret lake or is that Ediza? I haven't been back there yet but really looking forward to checking it out someday, thanks.
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Zander
climber
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Nov 18, 2012 - 06:51pm PT
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Looks sweet!
Z
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Nov 18, 2012 - 09:32pm PT
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Great thanks for posting- love them long days!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 19, 2012 - 12:05am PT
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f'kin' awewome. Nice job and thanks for the photos and writeup.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Author's Reply
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Nov 19, 2012 - 01:52pm PT
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Is the lake in the approach photos Minaret lake or is that Ediza?
The view with the lake and all of the Minarets (Minarets on the approach) is from the shores of Lake Cecile.
The other photo with Clyde more pointy-looking ("Beautiful view of Minarets") is from Minarets Lake I believe. That photo I took on a hiking trip in 2010. First photo in this album was also from that trip, from top of Volcanic Ridge. It has one of the best views in Sierra hands down. Would encourage you to visit. Incredibly scenic.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 19, 2012 - 02:38pm PT
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Vitya, way to get after the Big Choss! Didn't see the Cheburashka.
Has he gotten too fat and soft for the big one-dayers?
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 19, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
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Oh boy....one of my most favorite areas...Beautiful pics...certainly looks like you were a happy guy!
Susan
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limpingcrab
Gym climber
Minkler, CA
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Nov 19, 2012 - 02:47pm PT
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Nice, that rock looks cool!
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Fletcher
Boulder climber
Institute of Better Bouldering-DirtbagDad Division
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Nov 19, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
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Great! Thanks, enjoyed that.
You noted that the rock is not granite. Do you know what it is. I'm guessing, based on the area that it's some kind of volcanic rock.
Eric
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Nov 19, 2012 - 07:02pm PT
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Awesome vitality, looks like a stellar day!!!!!!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Nov 19, 2012 - 07:11pm PT
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Nice send Vitaliy. A great route. Definitely not a gimme for the grade. I thought it seemed a much bigger undertaking than other comparably rated routes.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Nov 19, 2012 - 07:23pm PT
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A day hike a la John Salathe! Good climb! Envy grows.
I can see how the upper route's confusing. The Sierra Club's signs got taken down. When? :0)
Smug gym rats are really annoying. Glad you ain't one of those, V.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Nov 20, 2012 - 03:48am PT
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Nice tr Vitaly! Looks like fun. Beautiful photos!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Author's Reply
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Nov 20, 2012 - 01:27pm PT
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Smug gym rats are really annoying. Glad you ain't one of those, V.
You should meet me in person ; ) If you thought I was annoying online you don't know the half of it.
I ALWAYS wonder about Walter Starr Jrs grave site...
Some good reading:
"The Minarets were the scene of much climbing activity in August 1933, when Walter A. Starr, Jr., was reported overdue from a trip to the Ritter Range. A large search party composed of some of California's finest climbers spent a week in the area, climbing peaks and checking summit registers, continually looking for clues from the missing man. The search was called off on August 19 but Clyde remained, climbing Leonard Minaret and searching the shores of Cecil Lake that day. On August 21 he climbed Clyde Minaret, looking for signs of a fallen climber in the bergschrund along its north glacier. Two days later he searched the cliffs above Amphitheater Lake with binoculars, and continued the search from the summit of Kehrlein Minaret. On August 25 he put all of the clues together, and climbed Michael Minaret via Clyde's Ledge. During the descent a fly droned by, and then another. He moved north, away from the Portal, and turned to face the northwestern side of Michael Minaret. And then he saw the earthly remains of Walter A. Starr, Jr. A few days later, Clyde and Jules Eichorn interred the body on the ledge where it had come to rest, while Starr's father, Walter A. Starr, Sr., watched from below."
-R. J. Secor, The High Sierra, Peaks, Passes, and Trails
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Nov 20, 2012 - 04:41pm PT
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Woot woot. Good stuff, Vitaliy - p1 and 2 corners look clean and killer.
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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Jun 28, 2016 - 01:31pm PT
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Bump to resurrect another TR gem.
TFPU
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