Trip Report
Copycat of Yos Falls Inner Gorge Descent-Photo Intensive
Wednesday September 22, 2010 12:05am
September 18, 2010

I have to admit right up front that I pushed my boys a bit too hard this time.

I saw this TR on ST a while back, and it looked pretty cool. Dave and the boys (Ky, 12, Ryle and Sawyer, 10) thought it looked pretty good too, so we decided to try it, as the falls looked to be dry. Dave had a spot in Upper Pines we could use for base, and we left from there on our bikes at a leisurely 9 am.

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Our campsite at Upper Pines on the morning of the Big Day.
Our campsite at Upper Pines on the morning of the Big Day.
Credit: bearbnz
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Riding our bikes to the government stables.
Riding our bikes to the government stables.
Credit: bearbnz
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It takes quite a while for the sun to get into the bottom of the valley at this time of the year, and it felt much earlier.

We parked our bikes behind the government stables so we could pick them up after coming down the use trail from Sunnyside Bench. We walked over to the base of the Sunnyside Bench route and prepared to climb. We ran into climbing ranger Eric and a friend of his heading the same way, so we sent them first as we were a party of 5. We scrambled up the 3rd class start, and roped up for what the route book calls 4th class, and it probably was, but I felt more comfortable with my boys on rope.

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On the 3rd-class scramble to the start of the climbing.
On the 3rd-class scramble to the start of the climbing.
Credit: bearbnz
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Love those chimneys, especially with a pack.  Photo by Dave.
Love those chimneys, especially with a pack. Photo by Dave.
Credit: Dave
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Ky on the tail end of the rope on the 4th-class pitch.  It's plenty st...
Ky on the tail end of the rope on the 4th-class pitch. It's plenty steep enough for a rope. Photo by Dave.
Credit: Dave
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Sawyer cruising up the 4th-class.
Sawyer cruising up the 4th-class.
Credit: bearbnz
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We used two ropes, one for all three boys, and one for Dave.

The next pitch had a little bit of 5th, and was more fun, and the pitch after that was better yet.

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Enjoying a nice ledge at the top of the 2nd pitch.  Photo by Dave.
Enjoying a nice ledge at the top of the 2nd pitch. Photo by Dave.
Credit: Dave
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"Hey Dad, I was just calling to see what's taking so long..."
"Hey Dad, I was just calling to see what's taking so long..."
Credit: bearbnz
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Apparently Ky didn't think I was going fast enough, but I actually made pretty good time.

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Almost there.
Almost there.
Credit: bearbnz
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Nearing the top of the 3rd pitch (If you count the 4th-class pitch)
Nearing the top of the 3rd pitch (If you count the 4th-class pitch)
Credit: bearbnz
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Sawyer & Riley at the 3rd belay.  Photo by Ky.
Sawyer & Riley at the 3rd belay. Photo by Ky.
Credit: Kyler T.
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The last pitch was uneventful, and we were on the Sunnyside Bench use trail.

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Dave on the Sunnyside Bench use trail.
Dave on the Sunnyside Bench use trail.
Credit: bearbnz
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We headed for the top of the Lower Fall and scouted out our eventual escape, then headed back for the scramble up the upper bench.

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As it would turn out, this would be our last cold swim of the day.
As it would turn out, this would be our last cold swim of the day.
Credit: bearbnz
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After a little bit of scrambling, we were established on the use trail and heading up.

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A little scrambling to gain the upper part of the use trail.
A little scrambling to gain the upper part of the use trail.
Credit: bearbnz
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Despite the warning from the other TR, we went too high and had to rap down to the base of the Upper Fall.

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Ky on the rap descent into the water channel near the base of the Uppe...
Ky on the rap descent into the water channel near the base of the Upper Fall.
Credit: bearbnz
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It turned out that the Upper Fall was not completely dry, there was a small shower trickling down, and the wind was pushing it all over the place, and we ran around trying to stay under the spray to cool down.

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Here's the full volume of the Upper Fall.  At this point, we were tryi...
Here's the full volume of the Upper Fall. At this point, we were trying to get wet... Photo by Dave.
Credit: Dave
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We wandered around on the water-smoothed slabs, and the boys checked out all of the potholes. It was amazing thinking about the spring flows pounding through there.

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Almost completely dry.  Photo by Dave.
Almost completely dry. Photo by Dave.
Credit: Dave
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The boys wandering on the water-smoothed slabs.
The boys wandering on the water-smoothed slabs.
Credit: bearbnz
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Lots of potholes to explore.
Lots of potholes to explore.
Credit: bearbnz
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You don't want to fall into this pothole, you're not likely to get out...
You don't want to fall into this pothole, you're not likely to get out. Photo by Dave.
Credit: Dave
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Some of the potholes are pretty deep.  Photo by Dave.
Some of the potholes are pretty deep. Photo by Dave.
Credit: Dave
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A lot of cool stuff down there.
A lot of cool stuff down there.
Credit: bearbnz
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No end of potholes to explore.
No end of potholes to explore.
Credit: bearbnz
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We ran into Eric and his friend there at the base of the Upper Fall, and it turned out that they were heading into the gorge as well. We all started down, the boys in the lead, and when we got to the first rap, the boys were already at the bottom. They had down climbed some slippery slabs in their bare feet. “Come on Dad, it’s easy.” I tried their route, and soon felt myself greasing off toward an ankle-tweaking fall onto solid granite slabs, and Eric, who was behind me, grabbed my daypack and pulled me back up to solid ground.

We pulled out the rope and made the short rap, and continued down the water channel. The next rap was short as well, but much steeper. Eric and his friend went first, and we didn’t see too much of them after that. We threw down our rope, and Ky wanted to go first. I was a little nervous since it was unknown terrain, but let him go ahead, and he did fine. Dave and I lowered Ry and Saw, then rapped down ourselves.

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Preparing for the first rap.  Photo by Dave.
Preparing for the first rap. Photo by Dave.
Credit: Dave
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Dave barefootin' it down the polished slabs.
Dave barefootin' it down the polished slabs.
Credit: bearbnz
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Ky leading the way on the second rap.
Ky leading the way on the second rap.
Credit: bearbnz
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Ky going over the edge.  Photo by Dave.
Ky going over the edge. Photo by Dave.
Credit: Dave
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A short scamper, and then another short rap, and then a long overhanging rap. I rapped first, and then Dave lowered each boy to me, and I tied them into the second rope and lowered them off of the big drop, maybe 170 feet. Dave came down, and his rope got stuck, and I had to go down and pull it out and prusik back up.

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Ky on the third rap.
Ky on the third rap.
Credit: bearbnz
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Sawyer going over the edge on the big drop.  What a lot of faith he ha...
Sawyer going over the edge on the big drop. What a lot of faith he has.
Credit: bearbnz
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Ryle waiting his turn to be lowered over the big drop.
Ryle waiting his turn to be lowered over the big drop.
Credit: bearbnz
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And then making the big drop.
And then making the big drop.
Credit: bearbnz
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Dave and I rapped off, and we were at our first pool. It was about chest deep for Dave and I, but for the boys it was a swim.

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It was a pretty big drop.
It was a pretty big drop.
Credit: bearbnz
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And overhanging too.
And overhanging too.
Credit: bearbnz
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After a short scramble over boulders, we found a knotted rope to help get down over a set of chockstones, and shortly after that another knotted rope to assist over a twenty-foot drop.

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One of the knotted ropes left to facilitate the descent.  Photo by Dav...
One of the knotted ropes left to facilitate the descent. Photo by Dave.
Credit: Dave
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Another pool, this one was a swim for everyone, and now things started to become a little bit grim. The leisurely day had slipped away from us. The sun was low, the little boys were cold, and they had had enough of this adventure. We were looking at two more swims, in the dark, in cold water when we were already cold, and Ky and I were thirsty, and we were out of water, and Dave was low.

It was ironic that we were swimming through all of that cold water and could not get a drink. We stripped the boys out of their wet clothes and that helped them warm up. Both Dave and I realized we had taken our headlamps out of our packs, and we put our heads together to decide what we should do in the quickly gathering darkness. We didn't take any more photos from here on out, as we had double-wrapped our cameras to keep them dry, and we just left them in our wet packs. It was almost dark anyway.

We could see the end of the gorge, the top of the Lower Fall, and we just needed to get there. I lowered Ky over the edge to take a look, and kept lowering, but all he could see was a pool, and he did not want to get wet again. Dave and I hoisted him back up, luckily he's not much over a hundred pounds.

We convinced the boys that we would be better off to just tough it out, do two more swims, and then we’d be out of there. The other TR showed a route around the pool, but we didn’t see it, and there were two nice bolts right where we were, so that’s where we decided to go down.

Sawyer was looking through his pack for some warm clothes, and discovered he still had his headlamp in there from our Snake Dike trip. That made our decision easy, we went forward. Dave rapped off into the gloom and found a small ledge above the water. I lowered each boy over the edge, it was probably 150’ down to the ledge, and Dave pulled them onto the ledge. I did a double-rope rap and joined them. We slipped into the cold, dark, water and swam across, the longest swim yet. We had brought plastic bags for our packs, to keep them dry, but by now we all had holes in our bags, and our packs and all of their contents were getting soaked. The ropes had become thoroughly wet, and were too heavy to carry across, so Dave tied them together and I towed the line across, and then pulled both lines across each time we came to a pool.


A short scramble to the next pool, we were all shivering, and I lowered the boys one by one to a hidden ledge just above the water. Ky slid in and swam about 2/3 of the way across to a large rock, and I rapped down and followed him. Ky and I jumped back in and finished up the swim, by far the longest of the day. Ry, Saw, and Dave were right behind, and we all pulled out and laid on the warm rocks.

We put the sopping ropes in our packs, now twice as heavy at least, and headed for the Sunnyside Bench trail, and we were soon back to our bikes. We had left our jackets there, and it felt good to put those on and pedal to the Visitor’s Center for some water, and then back to camp for some dinner.

This turned out to be an adult-sized adventure, and my boys stepped up and acted like the young men that they are. I am proud of the way they handled an unpleasant situation, they just did what they had to in order to get out. And I can't forget to thank Dave, the trip wouldn't have happened without him. He helped motivate the boys when things got tough, and he helped with all the chores, rope management, rope carrying, route finding, and all the rest. Thanks Dave!

The next morning, Saw and I were riding our bikes down to the store, and I asked him if he had fun. He said “The first part was really fun, but the last part wasn’t so fun.” I then asked him if he wished we had never gone, or if he was glad we had done it and suffered through it. His answer was immediate, “Dad, I’m glad we went.” His brothers agreed.

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The crew on another hike the next day.
The crew on another hike the next day.
Credit: bearbnz
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  Trip Report Views: 4,361
bearbnz
About the Author
bearbnz is a trad climber from the East Side, California.

Comments
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Sep 21, 2010 - 02:36am PT
those guys will remember that for the rest of their lives.

but for shame, not bringing spare headlamp.

eh, all turned out well

cheers
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
  Sep 21, 2010 - 02:45am PT
what a great adventure! Great TR. Congrats.
bearbnz

Trad climber
East Side, California
Author's Reply  Sep 21, 2010 - 02:47am PT
Yup Munge, I was a Bad Dad for taking this too lightly. Luckily, it all came out good.
Inner City

Trad climber
Portland, OR
  Sep 21, 2010 - 02:59am PT
Wow what a story. I"m impressed with you and your boys. That sounds like what the word adventure is all about. Congratulations on making it through the tough and cold part. Canyoneering is fun!
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
  Sep 21, 2010 - 07:31am PT
Wow what a place! Thanks for sharing something those boys will always remember, sure beats soccer.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
  Sep 21, 2010 - 02:18pm PT
Very cool.
Josh Nash

Social climber
riverbank ca
  Sep 21, 2010 - 02:34pm PT
Munge is right, your sons will never forget this. Dont feel bad because my dad took me out many of times in less than ideal conditions. I would not trade those experiences for anything. There is nothing wrong with being a little wet cold and tired.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Sep 21, 2010 - 02:41pm PT
Full value!!!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
  Sep 21, 2010 - 02:50pm PT
Wow! What an adventure for the boys.

As to the dark and wet and cold part, well, that's what's going to make it a memory they cherish for the rest of their lives.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
  Sep 21, 2010 - 03:01pm PT
Great adventure for the kids. What a cool spot under the upper falls.
Zander

climber
  Sep 21, 2010 - 04:59pm PT
Nice!!
Z
John Moosie

climber
Beautiful California
  Sep 21, 2010 - 08:45pm PT
Your kids are real troopers. What a beautiful spot that not many get to see. Thanks for the great report!
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
  Sep 21, 2010 - 09:12pm PT
I know some kids who have a pretty great story to tell at school.
Ricky D

Trad climber
Under the Webmasters Thumb
  Sep 21, 2010 - 09:17pm PT
Many a damsel will fall under the spell of these epic lads when they tell this tale of derring do in years to come.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber
On the road.
  Sep 21, 2010 - 09:18pm PT
Your kids really bucked up and toughed it out! Sweet! Give em a high five from me!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Sep 21, 2010 - 09:27pm PT
Awesome, I have only been to the valley once and we hiked to the top of the falls. I wanted to swim in the pool at the top sooo bad but thought better of it. I did not know the falls dried up that much.
goatboy smellz

climber
Gulf Breeze
  Sep 21, 2010 - 09:36pm PT
That was stellar, you're a great dad!
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
  Sep 21, 2010 - 10:05pm PT
Thanks for a great trip report!

I've wanted to do that route ever since the first TR. If I ever get it done, I will for sure have your little guys in mind when I do it. Please tell them they've provided a great role model for the rest of us to live up to.
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
  Sep 21, 2010 - 11:46pm PT
wish i had a dad like those kids got. way fun child hood experience !
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Wyoming
  Sep 21, 2010 - 11:54pm PT
Awesome, Bearbunz. I used to hang out in the pool just behind the top of the lower falls (as pictured!) sometimes and had hear that the cataract above leading the base of the upper falls was really an adventure, now I know!! Warbler has mentioned it in the past here.
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Sep 22, 2010 - 01:09am PT
Bump. Good route too!
Risk

Mountain climber
Marooned, 855 miles from Tuolumne Meadows
  Sep 22, 2010 - 01:47am PT
What an epic! Great report and experience for the boys. I had a my own such adventures, some with my dad, so I know first hand how this sort of experience sits with one for a lifetime: immeasurable value. Great job!
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
  Sep 22, 2010 - 01:59am PT
Great TR. Was just at the lower gorge (just at the top of the lower falls) today. So Beautiful.

Gotta do the gorge sometime. Looks like there's bolts right near the top of the lower falls on the east side. Wonder if you can rap right down to base of everything?

PEace

Karl
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
  Sep 22, 2010 - 02:19am PT
Thanks for the great story. Been meaning to do that trip for a long time, but have not gotten to it. The photos are great.
D-rod

Sport climber
Paradise--Bishop, California
  Sep 23, 2010 - 12:43am PT
What a great adventure to initiate your boys into manhood. Ky, Saw, and Ry look like WILD MEN out there! Maybe I'll get to try it with my boy some day.
cleo

Social climber
wherever you go, there you are
  Sep 23, 2010 - 01:14am PT
So cool, I love that trip!
thetennisguy

Mountain climber
Yuba City, CA
  Sep 23, 2010 - 12:58pm PT
Sweet!! Nice TR and thanks for sharing it with us!!
Broooks

Trad climber
Burlington, VT
  Sep 23, 2010 - 09:33pm PT
Cool! With 2 boys ages 7 and 9, I'll be calling you in a couple years for more beta. You can show your kids what the falls looked like just 5 months ago...
M. Volland

Trad climber
Grand Canyon
  Oct 6, 2010 - 08:14pm PT
I posted the original inner falls trip report. I'm just glad to see people taking this outing. The fixed rope wasn't there when we did it. How about the condition of the rap anchors? Where they all good?

After the big pool, we rapped from trees on the west side of the falls. This is because the water was cold, and the falls were in the shade at the time.

We also set up a zip line for our backpacks at the big pool. It took a little time but it worked pretty good as we didn't have any plastic bags to keep everything dry.

I hope to take my son on this trip sometime in the future, and give him the same stories to tell his friends as your kids are more than likely telling theirs.
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