Trip Report
Croatia Illustrated: The Swimsuit Edition
Sunday November 22, 2015 11:47am
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With no climbing badassery to share, I figured I'd have to resort to the promise of a bikini shot to get anyone's attention.
Natalia and I spent 9 days in Croatia mid to late September and were duly impressed. The weather was about perfect and the rock was typically solid, quality limestone.
We flew directly into Venice and rented a peppy diesel Renault.
7.5 hrs. later (should have been 6 but we got lost in Italy...) we pulled into the seaside town of Starigrad. Our apartment was one of four similar units in a great house half a km away from the Adriatic, and in the other direction, about a km from Paklenica National Park. It's a nothing walk from the canyon entrance to where the climbing starts. Tunneled right there into the cliff is a shop with a bit of everything, including espresso and cold beer. Next to that is a first-rate washroom carved into the cliff as well. Then there are the dozens of single pitch routes along the canyon that you can reach within minutes of your car. Throw in the odd multi-pitch and you have enough to keep you entertained for weeks. The bigger routes start about a half-hour hike away.
We were never more than a few minutes from either the sea, superb hiking or rocks to climb. If there are non-climbers in your group this makes an especially great destination.
Accommodation, food, wine and beer are all top notch and inexpensive.
I'm talking 45 EUR a night for a spotless well appointed apt. that sleeps 4. Some pretty good beers go for 1 EUR. A litre! The excellent local wines are about 3 EUR a bottle and up.
We stuck to Croatian specialities like grilled seafood or roast lamb and were never disappointed. I'm working on duplicating a ubiquitous dish of potatoes, greens, olive oil and garlic.
If you're a cheese lover be sure to try their aged sheep cheese called Ovidur.
You have many options for rest days. For the truly beat, I'd recommend eating, drinking, and lounging in the Adriatic.
Strolling through Croatia's beautiful historic towns and cities, or visiting their travertine producing waterfalls are not to be missed either!
We also spent a couple of days (not nearly enough) on the island of Hvar visiting beaches and cragging.
Sorry for the butt shots...
7SacredPools
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About the Author Garry Reiss is from Ontario, Canada. |
Comments
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 22, 2015 - 12:51pm PT
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Thanks I wanna go!
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Fish Finder
climber
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Nov 22, 2015 - 01:04pm PT
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Ive never been much of a fig licker myself
nice TR looks like ya had some fun!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 22, 2015 - 02:23pm PT
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My Croat homie, Zeljko, is threatening to drag me there bodily.
I might have to take him up on that threat. Don't know from no fig
brandy but I've a history with Slivovitz, the plum brandy from yonder.
Nice pics! Being a belay slave doesn't look like it hurt much, either.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 22, 2015 - 03:54pm PT
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Looks like a beautiful place with excellent climbing....definetly on my short list. By the way, you keep excellent company!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Nov 22, 2015 - 03:04pm PT
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Whoa! Want some.
I love to liqu figs too.
I've heard many good things about the Serbia - Croatia coast. Gotta get over there.
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Nov 22, 2015 - 03:49pm PT
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Wow...what a place , thanks for the share !
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Nov 22, 2015 - 04:26pm PT
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Totally cool
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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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Nov 22, 2015 - 05:09pm PT
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Great shots. Thanks for posting up.
Im looking for a good place for this winter. How would it be in February?
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7SacredPools
Trad climber
Ontario, Canada
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Author's Reply
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Nov 23, 2015 - 04:49am PT
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Thanks all :)
Come summer it would be tough to climb in the sun, and of course there will be way more tourists. But in mid to late September we were often the only ones at a crag so perhaps it wouldn't be too bad.
Hvar in February would be great for climbing. For swimming, not so much.
Paklenica NP is apparently quite windy in the winter.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 22, 2015 - 08:19pm PT
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Fun and exotic travelogue!
Thanks for sharing your fun with us.
Looks like some quality limestone.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Nov 22, 2015 - 09:08pm PT
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Sweet...my short list as well!
Thanks!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Nov 22, 2015 - 09:55pm PT
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Awesome!
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Nov 23, 2015 - 08:02am PT
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^^^^^^^^^^^
Now I know what losers to expect to run into when I'm there.
Super.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Nov 23, 2015 - 08:39am PT
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Fantastic, thanks for posting!!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Nov 23, 2015 - 08:48am PT
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Wow!!
Super cool!! The stone, the setting, the accommodations,it all looks top flight.
Thanks for taking us along!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Nov 23, 2015 - 08:52am PT
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TFPU
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Nov 23, 2015 - 09:05am PT
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Wow, that was an enjoyable read! Looks like a fantastic vacation.
Did you order some guidebooks before you went (were they available online), or did you just get info locally once you arrived?
How did you find the limestone? Was it slippery/polished or textured?
BTW you are a lovely looking couple.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Nov 23, 2015 - 12:21pm PT
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It's been a few years, but we ordered our guidebooks from the UK, couldn't find a domestic source for the most recent editions.
Stone was varied, polished on the trail side moderates and photo ops(eg 3 bolt harder line on the underbelly of a boulder in the creek), practically untouched/great texture throughout most of the park. Never anything I'd really call sharp.
We also flew into Zagreb which cut the drive down to about 3 hours of empty 2 lane toll road and put Plitvice between the climbing and the airport.
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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Nov 23, 2015 - 06:19pm PT
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Pretty sneaky title with swimsuit, but it was worth the look... ;-)
Neat looking place, would love to check it out. TFPU.
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ecflau
Gym climber
CA
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Nov 23, 2015 - 06:28pm PT
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Wow awesome! I would have clicked for Croatia, but the swimsuit helped. Haha.
Question : Which guidebook / resource did you use for climbing info? I'd be very interested in checking out climbing in Croatia sometime. Its probably my favorite country in Europe.
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7SacredPools
Trad climber
Ontario, Canada
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Author's Reply
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Nov 23, 2015 - 08:30pm PT
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We bought the "Paklenica" guide in the little shop just past the entrance to the park (cheaper than online I think). They also had the "Croatia" guide which covers most of the other areas but we just relied on internet sources for the crags we visited on Hvar.
As for the rock, you'll find every kind of feature and texture. From smooth to super grippy.
Some of the easy and moderate routes along the canyon have slippery bits, but once you get away from there polish is not a problem.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Nov 23, 2015 - 11:14pm PT
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Nice!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Nov 24, 2015 - 10:12am PT
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I'd always wondered about climbs near the Dalmatian coast and the east side of the Adriatic generally. Thank you for posting an excellent TR on what, for me, is a quite exotic climbing region.
John
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runitoutray
Trad climber
ON, Can
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Nov 30, 2015 - 05:59pm PT
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Was the limestone more polished than Cobwebs at the "Snake"? That can't be surpassed.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Nov 30, 2015 - 10:47pm PT
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Fantastic adventure. First class all the way. Thanks for a great write up. Will add it to the "must visit" list!
Scott
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7SacredPools
Trad climber
Ontario, Canada
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Author's Reply
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Dec 1, 2015 - 04:47am PT
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Was the limestone more polished than Cobwebs at the "Snake"? That can't be surpassed. Indeed, it can't! And no it wasn't :)
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Excellent! Definitely adding to my list too! I'll be within a day's drive of there after Christmas, but will be chillin' with my Italian in-laws rather than climbing. If we get out at all, it will be for a day or two in the pre-Alps, maybe Resegone or Grignetta or Grignone.
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