Trip Report
DeVille III Route, Estes Park Valley, ( Another delayed report 1980).
Sunday May 1, 2011 7:33pm
In the late Spring of 1980, I was returning to climbing after an unsuccessful marriage/divorce, and Bob Culp suggested that we go up to Estes Park and climb one of his favorite routes: DeVille III Route, on DeVille III Rock. this route was already considered a "classic" even by 1980. Originally put up by Layton Kor, sometime prior to 1960, the route combines excellent rock, nice exposure, and great climbing at a reasonable level; At II, 5.7, this is a very good early season get-in-shape climb and is one I hope to repeat in the near future.

Bob also invited a young attorney to join us, and Larry Treece proved to be a great companion. We all enjoyed the leisurely stroll through the wooded approach from the Cheley Girls Camp, which was still closed in mid-May. We made an amiable group, and were in no big hurry to the base of the climb.

Bob was our designated leader, and he climbed the first short step in fine style.

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Bob Culp starting the Deville III Route, Estes Park Valley.
Bob Culp starting the Deville III Route, Estes Park Valley.
Credit: Brokedownclimber
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As the officially designated photographer, I have lots of pictures but only a few of me climbing.

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Bob, beginning the second pitch.
Bob, beginning the second pitch.
Credit: Brokedownclimber
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This pitch is very photogenic and has a great position for the photographer. The climbing is on a very featured and twisted gneiss, but offers only minimal protection possibilities.

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Bob continuing the second pitch of DeVille III Route...
Bob continuing the second pitch of DeVille III Route...
Credit: Brokedownclimber
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Larry followed, with me bringing up the rear with the camera nad collecting the gear.

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Larry Treece following pitch two, DeVille III route. May, 1980.
Larry Treece following pitch two, DeVille III route. May, 1980.
Credit: Brokedownclimber
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A view up the route as Larry neared the second belay ledge:

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Larry Treece nearing the belay ledge; Bob is just visible (head on...
Larry Treece nearing the belay ledge; Bob is just visible (head only) towards the left.
Credit: Brokedownclimber
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The third pitch:

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Larry Treece climbing pitch 3 on DeVille III Route.
Larry Treece climbing pitch 3 on DeVille III Route.
Credit: Brokedownclimber
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And finally, the junk man cometh, collecting gear on that pitch:

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Rodger "Brokedownclimber" Raubach on pitch 3. Not so "Brokedown" 31 ye...
Rodger "Brokedownclimber" Raubach on pitch 3. Not so "Brokedown" 31 years ago!
Credit: Brokedownclimber
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I look back fondly at the photos of this climb, to a time when I had no physical issues and weighed a lot less than I do today. Nevertheless, I still climb after gaining about a pound a year over the intervening time. I'm making plans to do a repeat of this beautiful route sometime this Summer.

The climbing was outstanding, as was the conversation and spirit of comradeship. All in all, a most satisfactory day in the Rockies!


  Trip Report Views: 2,484
Brokedownclimber
About the Author
Brokedownclimber is a trad climber from Douglas, WY.

Comments
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  May 1, 2011 - 09:58pm PT
Awesome Broken!
Thanks for the old Pics!
Do you think the first pitch will still be run out with modern gear?
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Author's Reply  May 1, 2011 - 10:14pm PT
Might be able to get some cam placements, but we mostly relied on small wired stoppers in occasional cracks. I certainly wouldn't give the route any R or PG13 ratings, though. I suspect that a few chickenheads could be slung, but there weren't many of them. Overall, the climbing is very secure and rock is solid.

P.S. I posted this up, 'cause it's one of my all-time favorite climbs. The location is awesome, and the approach is really pleasant.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  May 1, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
'Done it, loved it, would do it again.
Your compatriots are sporting some dandy vintage footwear, even for 1980.

Xenomorph, to the left ... even better.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Author's Reply  May 1, 2011 - 10:21pm PT
Roy-

I recall I was using RR Verappes at the time. I loved them, and they would still be awesome if they were still made (esp. with C4 rubber!).
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  May 1, 2011 - 11:11pm PT
Yet, in that particular footwear you were up to snuff for the times.
Your buddies however ... Kronie's & red PA's ???

I will say that Culp is quite the dandy in those shots regardless; in no small part because of the gray suede shoes !!!

Looking forward to your next installment !

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Author's Reply  May 2, 2011 - 09:18am PT
The next installmet will be Topographical Oceans, after the slides are transferred!
goatboy smellz

climber
Gulf Breeze
  May 2, 2011 - 09:39am PT
Great routes and very unique rock compared to the rest of the valley, Deville and Xenomorph follow the right ridge line.

BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
  May 4, 2011 - 12:21am PT
Nice historical photos Roger - thanks for sharing!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
  May 4, 2011 - 12:25am PT
Well, that's rather fun! I've climbed at Lumpy once or twice, but nothing else at Estes.

Why is it called De Ville III? Is it a De Ville of a route? Is it a Coup De Ville?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  May 4, 2011 - 12:26am PT
Love those classic shots Rodger!
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Author's Reply  May 4, 2011 - 05:30pm PT
Anders-

The rock itself is named DeVille III Rock, and the route (original line) simply became the DeVille III route. The route was first done, about a year or so before I began climbing, by none other than Layton Kor.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  May 13, 2011 - 01:11pm PT
Old photo bump!!!

Dear lord, save us from: wow really?
neversummer

climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
  May 13, 2011 - 03:56pm PT
bump
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Author's Reply  May 13, 2011 - 06:43pm PT
I'm actually hoping to repeat this route later this summer (after it stops snowing!).
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Oct 17, 2011 - 12:46am PT
Cool
Go