Trip Report
Denali Traverse

by Alpinista55
Monday July 18, 2011 3:59pm
Just found a link to this TR over at CascadeClimbers.com.

This is the style!

http://thingstolucat.com/denali-traverse/

jk

  Trip Report Views: 4,361
Alpinista55 		About the Author
Jay Kerr is a mountain climber from Portland, OR.

Comments
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Jul 18, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
I guess this was too cool to compete with the 'tard threads?
Nicely shot and I loved the soundtrack!
Is it just me or did those rafts look a little scary?
'Skiing' across the bog - LOL!
jfailing

Trad climber
PDX
  Jul 19, 2011 - 07:16pm PT
Looks like an awesome time... Fantastic video and pictures!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jul 20, 2011 - 12:08am PT
Thanks Jay, beautiful pics and a beautiful mountain!!!!!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Jul 20, 2011 - 12:39am PT
WOW!!!!!
Rosamond

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
  Jul 20, 2011 - 03:10pm PT
Nice Trip Report. We did that traverse in 95, and it's one of the most memorable trips (so far) that I've done. Those packrafts definitely have changed the program...we had to have an old 13' hypalon raft airdropped in for us at the tokositna river. Good on the authors...good trip.
PP

Trad climber
SF,CA
  Jul 20, 2011 - 04:29pm PT
I think I remember that Tucker Tech circumnavigated denali on ski's? Anyone to confirm that?
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Jul 20, 2011 - 04:37pm PT
I was a little disappointed they didn't sky dive in.

Very cool TR, Thanks.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Jul 20, 2011 - 04:50pm PT
This is pretty rad.
mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
  Jul 20, 2011 - 11:16pm PT
Bumpety bump! for a GREAT link. FWIW, I know that Rowell and Gillette, and I think a third somebody else who doesn't deserve to be forgotten by my addled memory, circumnavigated Denali on skis, I think the first party we know of to do it (maybe the sourdoughs did a couple laps before tagging the North Peak). More ridiculous, I think they did it on skinny racing skis too, just to, well, I can't imagine why. But that's the deal. It's in one of Rowell's books, and many killer photos too of course. Anyway, the trip on this link sounds incredible, with very telling photos of some gnarly parts bushwhacking and hiking across fresh moraine with big packs (ugh). Bump!
Conrad

climber
  Jul 21, 2011 - 12:43am PT
props for a great adventure well told memories for a lifetime

Daryl Miller and 2 friends skied around the range in the mid nineties. They might be the third party.
Rosamond

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
  Jul 22, 2011 - 02:18pm PT
@ pp; I remember talking to Tucker Tech back in the early 90s about his Denali Traverse....He did almost the "normal" thing as these guys did, in via muldrow, grab the summit, and down the Kahiltna. But his group went out by going down the lowermost Kahiltna to teh kahiltna river instead of traversing out on the Pika and Granite Glaciers to the Tokositna. He said it was a pretty scary deal with the glacial meltw#ter streams on the lowermost part of the Kahiltna. This is basically why just about everyone exits via the Granite. It's just safer.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jul 22, 2011 - 02:22pm PT
Sorry I missed this Jay!!

Looks awesome, great pix. I like the skis in the brush shot!
Alpinista55

Mountain climber
Portland, OR
Author's Reply  Jul 22, 2011 - 07:45pm PT
Hey Rosamond -

I've exited twice via the Pika/Granite/Peters Hills route. Another option might be the Kanikula Glacier. We skied in over the Kanikula in '85, crossing over onto the Kahiltna just south of Avalanche Spire. Definitely a more technical crossing, and I'm not sure if the river is raftable. It was easy going on skis in April, and much shorter than most other ski-in routes.

Jk
William Finley

Social climber
Anchorage
  Jul 22, 2011 - 09:43pm PT
Another legendary AK Range traverse is the traverse that Hoeman, Choate, Ells and Johnston did in 1963. Up and over Denali, up all three summits of Mt. Hunter. Then out the Kahiltna where Johnston fell 15' into a crevasse filled with ice water. Legend has it when they got off the Kahiltna they were out of food and had to eat a porcupine.

The AAJ write up is here:
http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/1964/56_Hoeman_McKinleyHunter_aaj1964.pdf#search=%22tom%20choate%22
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jul 22, 2011 - 09:45pm PT
had to eat a porcupine.


Dude, they're not that bad, depending on what they've been eating. Hungry enough, you'll be damn glad to eat a porcupine!!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Jul 22, 2011 - 10:18pm PT
hey there say... thanks for the neat find, and share...
:)

will sure try to check it out, when i can...
*takes me a bit of time... but it sure sound worth it...
:)
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