Trip Report
Devil's Tower, The Extended Weissner, 5.8, solo
Thursday July 21, 2011 12:40am
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The Weissner route climbed in 1937 by Fritz Weissner, William House and Lawerence Coveny was the first modern climb on the tower. The previous ascents had been by the Ripley & Rogers family via the Stakeladder in 1893 in a feat of Cowboy can do inginuity in 1891.
I hadn't climbed the tower in five years since I climbed it with my then 16 yr old daughter Natalie and my two brother Charlie and Barry.
I had a day and was ensconced in a cabin some ten miles away. The Weissner seemed like a good way to go. As the Tower's own Dingus Mcgee is fond of quoting Heraclitus, "you can never cross the same river twice" Over the years we've adapted this to climbing. "You can never climb the same climb twice. This was to be no exception. In the last thirty odd years I'd climbed the Wiessner and all it's variations. But they all mix in my memory and though it was familiar I ended up climbing the Extended weissner as a fresh experience with a feeling of dejavu, though I wasn't sure exactly which route I was on until I checked it out in the guidebook afterwards.
It had been over a hundred the day before, so an early start to beat the sun, if not the heat seemd essential
According to acuweather, predawn twilight was at 4:57
no headlamp needed
Diversion around two parties (5 climbers) recoiling the rope, not finding the route, and then two pitches of 5.8 hands to Wyde and the rising sun was around the corner.
on to the meadows
then a short 4th class scramble to the summit
Somehow I missed the background on the summit shot
there's the Missouri Buttes and Frank's house
On down the Bon Homme Rappell, where, at 7:30 there were people coming up
Note "careful avoidence of painful Crack technique"*
Turns out these guys were new to the tower, on a roadtrip as part of a larger group, from Iowa. One guy told me this was is his first trip outside, first time crack climbing and first multipitch. For all that, they went pretty steadily. And the clouds were out so I watched and took pictures.
Note, you can get down the Bonhomme Rappell and the Standard Meadows rap (pr so I'm told) on a single 70 meter rope.
Rte goes up right of the center of photo to lower angeld area ("The Meadows") then scrambles up tp the right.
East face showing 'The Window' in the center
My 93rd ascent and probable last solo of the tower.
* John Gill
Jaybro
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About the Author Jaybro is a social climber from Wolf City, Wyoming. |
Comments
rhyang
climber
SJC
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Jul 21, 2011 - 12:42am PT
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Way cool !
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Jul 21, 2011 - 12:53am PT
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Radbro!
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The Larry
climber
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Jul 21, 2011 - 01:15am PT
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Awesome Jay, Looks like a fun day.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 21, 2011 - 01:18am PT
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Neat stuff, Jaybro.
Lookin' towards Lucille fest!@!!!!
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jul 21, 2011 - 01:19am PT
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Good work, nice story & photos.
Dude!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jul 21, 2011 - 01:56am PT
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Awesome. Wiesner is no piece cake and it was probably 100+ that day as well. A buddy of mine and I climbed the west face on a 105+ day and it was really nice. You just have to start by 5am so you can get down by 2pm because there may not be too many places around that are hotter than the west face on a hot day once the sun comes around. You, Dingus and Freddy impressed me with your devotion to shade. Nice job Jay. How much longer are you hanging around? Heading to rushmore for the weekend.
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O.D.
Trad climber
LA LA Land
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Jul 21, 2011 - 02:11am PT
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Beautiful climbing style, excellent prose & photos. Well done!
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Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
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Jul 21, 2011 - 02:14am PT
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Go Jay! (anything on the mules?)
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Casper the Friendly Ghost Town!
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Jul 21, 2011 - 02:55am PT
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Sweet Jaybro! Youy "one-upped" Fritz who used what, one piton on the first pitch??
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Jul 21, 2011 - 09:07am PT
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nicely
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jul 21, 2011 - 09:40am PT
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Thanks for the TR. Hey, I just noticed that the browser tab reads "Add Customer Comment". So, that's a real good TR for free, keep up the good work.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 21, 2011 - 09:42am PT
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Excellent !
Thanks for taking us along. I can't believe I still haven't been to that place.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Jul 21, 2011 - 09:48am PT
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Nice.
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fosburg
climber
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Jul 21, 2011 - 09:55am PT
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Nice Jay! How is that route as a solo? Was the one 60 meter rope sufficient? I've climbed many routes at Devil's Tower but never topped out.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Jul 21, 2011 - 09:57am PT
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93 ascents? Wow! Nice TR, SoloBro!
Just curious: What is the "*J. Gill" notation at the end?
Still haven't been to Mato Tipila...
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neversummer
climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Jul 21, 2011 - 10:40am PT
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Bitchin.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 21, 2011 - 10:49am PT
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Lovely outing!
Thanks for the share! Did you bring along a babyhead just for good measure?!?
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Jul 21, 2011 - 10:49am PT
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Nice Jay. Weissner was my first tower climb and my first multi-pitch climb ever. Was a rank beginner at the time. Climbed it with Layne Kopischka. I still remember Fritz's lone lost arrow in a horizontal crack about half way up.
Climbing on the south face in July is pretty hard core!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jul 21, 2011 - 10:57am PT
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Good stuff Jay!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Jul 21, 2011 - 10:58am PT
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Hence the early start Mike, no direct sun until the meadows. It's a ring pin and it's still there!
See you @ 4 stories.
Where Fritz had rope soles, I had Gandas
i had a 70, Kevin.
I quoted him in a photo caption, Erik.
Thanks all.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 21, 2011 - 11:03am PT
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Daredevil's Tower is more like it!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jul 21, 2011 - 11:15am PT
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Yeah jaybro! I remember the live TR but this one has pictures and I thank you for both. Keep it up Jay.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 21, 2011 - 11:38am PT
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thanks for the dispatch from the frontier Jaybro!
and all the subtle reminders of our increasing experience.
hope to catch up with you sometime soon!
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spyork
Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
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Jul 21, 2011 - 11:51am PT
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Thanks for the TR Jay. Did Gary get up there to climb with ya?
Steve
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jul 21, 2011 - 11:53am PT
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Love it. This is why we climb, for mornings like these.
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Jul 21, 2011 - 12:52pm PT
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Refreshing TR...
Another reminder that our happiest moments climbing are done for adventure and fun (rather than competitive glory or self-vindication)
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Jul 21, 2011 - 01:23pm PT
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Thanks JayBro!
nice pics and comentary!!!!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jul 21, 2011 - 01:29pm PT
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Way to pull that 4am crux. I shiver at the thought of it. :) Thanks for sharing
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Gal
Trad climber
going big air to fakie
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Jul 21, 2011 - 02:30pm PT
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Good job!!! Sounds like a very nice morning... soloing must be a very free feeling.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Jul 21, 2011 - 02:31pm PT
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What a nice day.
Thanks for letting us in on it.
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seneca
climber
jamais, jamais pays
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Jul 21, 2011 - 02:37pm PT
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OK, don't you think you've had enough fun for now?!!!
Cheers and keep sending, it warms an old guys heart.
Bob
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Mar 15, 2012 - 01:12am PT
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Jaybro nice write up and I have still yet to actually lead this one. Need to soon or I am afraid it will start to not seem fun.
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Floridaputz
Trad climber
Oakland Park Florida
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Mar 18, 2012 - 07:57pm PT
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That's living
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 18, 2012 - 10:05pm PT
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I hope that you carried a babyhead, just in case.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Mar 19, 2012 - 01:12am PT
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Nice work. Great adventure. Thanks man.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Mar 19, 2012 - 02:55am PT
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this is one of those ones that I would like to do when I go back.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Mar 19, 2012 - 03:17am PT
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Great report!
Is Frank the guy who runs the B&B+guiding service just north of the Tower? If so, then I met him on the summit last year. 'twas a pleasure!
Didn't those Iowans see the climbing info sign at the parking lot about "hand wedging"? j/k Although I did wonder if that term is a regional or a historical one, since I had never heard of it before.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Mar 19, 2012 - 03:22am PT
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Missed this last year. Really happy to find it now.
Tx
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Frank Sanders
Trad climber
Devils Tower. Wyoming
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Mar 19, 2012 - 11:20pm PT
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Oh Jay, Don't know how I missed this post !! Just saw it for the first time, right now !!! Very cool !! It strikingly brought back some very visceral memories.....
....Extended Weissner was my first free-solo on this Tower. It was 1979, and I was living with Denise, in the trailer, out of town, by the coal mine. (Oh, Sooo "Gillette", in the 70's). Armed with those Amazing EB shoes, I'd convinced myself that the lower pitch was ALL solid hand jams, with a Pleasant stemming rest in the middle, and that the Feature Pitch was ALL solid body jams. My crux would be the step-across, into the WIDE.....All went smoothly & Surreally; believe that Fritz's Spirit was with me on the Wide. That morning, The Mind played ONLY images of fat, solid hand jams, solid off-width and strong updrafts. Towed 2 ropes with me for the raps. Somehow, even today, I imagine that I can still see That View, from the Tower Top, and feel that Totally New Perspective on Life. Rapped down & free-soloed Durrance, quite solidly & Happily. Rapped again, and only by that time had other climbers appeared. Hooked up with Todd & Smeds, I believe, and took a top-rope on Walt Bailey,....and promptly fell off.
Although several decades have passed, my brain is still Smiling.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Mar 19, 2012 - 01:36pm PT
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ha Ha, good to see you here, Frank! Glad you liked it.
Oh man, that Is so Gillette, in those days. i remember sleeping in the basement of the Micro Ghetto, those same days...
I didn't feel secure on any of that, and kept dble checking and over jamming.
See you this summer!
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Zander
climber
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Mar 19, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
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Hey hey, Nice Jaybro,
Somehow missed this the first time around.
Cheers
Zeebro
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Mar 19, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
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Thanks for the inspiration JayBro!
Nice effort.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Finally got a lead in on this beast this fall. It is super old school and therefore feels harder than most things at its grade. My rack suggestion is two sixes, 3 fives, 3 fours, and a two.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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nice Tower bump
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cowpoke
climber
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This little report kicks ass. I'm out of the loop and not looking hard enough, but sure wish there was more of this simple inspiration being posted. Jaybro, you rock.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Well that blows your chance for a Clif Bar sponsorship
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Sweetness bump. Nice stuff Jaybro!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nice Jay...missed this first time around. I've only been there twice, once in 76 with Steve Wunsch and again ten years ago with my wife. The rangers were annoying in 76 but no problem since....need to get back there!
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roadkillphil
Trad climber
Colorado
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Dec 10, 2014 - 08:30am PT
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Nice, Jay. Been trying to pm you some old photos but not going through and all I get is a black image when I try here. Here's one that worked, though...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Dec 11, 2014 - 06:46am PT
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Woo hoo, Phil! Hmm downward view of wide world...
Or text my phone, same number we have talked on before, I think...
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Jan 19, 2016 - 04:52pm PT
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Thinking I haven't climbed the tower yet in 2016.
nom nom nom
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Jan 19, 2016 - 05:07pm PT
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No time like the present, weather allowing......
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Jan 19, 2016 - 05:17pm PT
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Nice pic!
I don't have a winter trip up it yet.
I'll wait for a nice high pressure system with sunny calm days and mid 40s when I do though!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 19, 2016 - 11:06pm PT
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Wait for temps in the 60's happens more than you think.
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