Trip Report
Dolt Photos - First Ascent of the Totem Pole
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Thursday November 20, 2008 5:36pm
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I just ran across a couple of boxes of Dolt's slides and since I'm working on a few Dolt stories, I thought I'd post them to get your juices flowing.
The Totem Pole in Monument Valley
Dolt's Photo for the tourist trade
Find the climbers
Can you spot them?
You can see their silhouettes
More Dolt photos
Look closely
Hairy rappels
Looks like Mark Powell
Maybe Don Wilson?
Your guess is as good as mine
More Dolt photos
In the crew in Monument Valley
On top L. to R. Powell, Gallwas, Wilson (in back), Dolt (Bill Feuerer, in front)
Powell, Wilson, and Dolt
Powell, Wilson, and ?
A series of Dolt stories are forthcoming
Don Lauria
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About the Author
Don Lauria is a trad climber from Bishop, CA. |
Comments
Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Nov 20, 2008 - 05:37pm PT
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Sweet, Don.
Chompin' at the bit......
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Nov 20, 2008 - 05:49pm PT
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*drool*
wow, really awesome stuff!
psyched to see more if possible...
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Nov 20, 2008 - 06:00pm PT
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I swear that thing looks like it's cracked all the way through in some spots (the big horizontal cracks). What an FA!
JL
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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Nov 20, 2008 - 06:04pm PT
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Didn't a member of the FA party tie the ropes to his ankles, hang his feet over the side and tell his partners he dropped the ropes?
I think I read that in the original desert rock book.
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Gene
climber
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Nov 20, 2008 - 06:27pm PT
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Fantastic. Thanks, Don.
Keep digging and posting up treasures like these.
gm
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Nov 20, 2008 - 06:45pm PT
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Those summit shots are some of the coolest I have ever seen! Thanks for posting them
Mike
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Nov 20, 2008 - 07:20pm PT
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Great stuff Don! Thank you. I hope you find those Nose photos.
Ken
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Nov 20, 2008 - 07:39pm PT
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Yes, that photo of the four on top of Totem Pole has long been one of my very favorites. Jerry Gallwas sent me many of these photos and quite a few others, such as of Cleopatra's Needle, a real sliver, when I was working on my history of free climbing. Gallwas is a great guy and was immensely helpful. What a story all its own, of those four going down to the desert and climbing all those classic spires...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 20, 2008 - 09:11pm PT
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Another vote for that summit photo of 4 as a classic!!
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Nov 20, 2008 - 09:22pm PT
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spectacular pictures!
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
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Nov 20, 2008 - 09:26pm PT
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What history .... damn.
Thanks.
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pc
climber
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Nov 20, 2008 - 09:40pm PT
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Fantastic! Thanks for sharing.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 20, 2008 - 09:56pm PT
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Great shots.
Don thanks for showing.
On the summit shot:
Guess the liquid in the puddle???????
GK
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N0_ONE
Social climber
Utah
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Nov 20, 2008 - 09:58pm PT
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Right on! Thanks!
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Nov 20, 2008 - 09:58pm PT
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Don,
It may be just my creative memory but wasn't Tom Condon involved in the project?
Charlie D.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Author's Reply
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Nov 20, 2008 - 10:07pm PT
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Two things. Yes, the liquid was not rain water. And I believe Tom Condon was involved in the second ascent with TM Herbert.
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Lightgirl
climber
Mendocino, Ca
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Nov 20, 2008 - 10:19pm PT
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Yes, Thank you Don for the great photos! I think my favorite is the top one of the totem pole. The lighting is perfect and the clouds seem to frame it perfectly. Awesome!
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Nov 20, 2008 - 10:19pm PT
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definition of "authentic."
I like the "guess" shot showing the two stepper etriers left behind; quite an esoteric feeling, no?
Thank you, Don!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 20, 2008 - 10:23pm PT
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spectacular!
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Nov 20, 2008 - 11:24pm PT
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I really liked this one--great scans to show the folks here.
Thanks for sharing.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Nov 21, 2008 - 12:25am PT
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Bow down before the Pole;..the tallest, skinniest spire in the world.....
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goatboy smellz
climber
Gulf Breeze
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Nov 21, 2008 - 12:30am PT
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So close yet so far.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 21, 2008 - 12:37am PT
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The arrows show some of the more prominent lightning scars on this photo.
When you climb the "Pole" the lightning scars are all over this thing. Some of the scars jump into the cracks and come back out elsewhere.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Gulf Breeze
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Nov 21, 2008 - 12:42am PT
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Where do you think those lightning bolts come out Werner?
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 21, 2008 - 12:54am PT
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Back out on the face.
Mike Hoover actually told me about them just before we went to climb it.
He saw them while filming Eastwood during the making of the "Eiger Sanction".
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Nov 21, 2008 - 12:58am PT
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The fearsome red shaft;....The Totem Pole
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Nov 21, 2008 - 01:00am PT
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Dave Evans preparing to climb the Pole;
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Nov 21, 2008 - 01:02am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Nov 21, 2008 - 01:04am PT
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Can't you read?....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Nov 21, 2008 - 01:07am PT
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One of the greatest climbing adventures of my life, and a summit I desired more than almost any;...The Pole...( I was a happy boy...)
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Nov 21, 2008 - 01:09am PT
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Awesome from any angle....
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Strider
Trad climber
ಠ_ಠ
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Nov 21, 2008 - 01:27am PT
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So it begs the question...is it possible to climb the Pole anymore? If you ask really nice, will they let you climb it?
-n
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Nov 21, 2008 - 01:30am PT
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 21, 2008 - 01:35am PT
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wow. wow. talk about amazing photos that evoke an amazing time, in an amazing place...
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Nov 21, 2008 - 01:49am PT
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Don those photos are incredible - what a feeling they evoke - the summit photo is like from a time long past...wow.
And Todd's yours are way cool too.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Author's Reply
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Nov 21, 2008 - 02:12am PT
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Ament,
You talked about Cleopatra, well Dolt was looking at it.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Nov 21, 2008 - 02:52am PT
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Cleo
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Nov 21, 2008 - 02:56am PT
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captain chaos
climber
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Nov 21, 2008 - 08:10am PT
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Great photos, what a crew and trip- thanks Don...
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Nov 21, 2008 - 08:57am PT
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dec 14th will make the 20th anniversary of my ascent (in the teens). I had a beautiful triple height post card of the original route at one time (lost in a move a decade ago).
A fine route and fine memories (of getting caught by tribal police).
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 21, 2008 - 09:24am PT
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The 1970 Ascent cover, and accompanying articles by Roper and Pratt, inspired my
first desert trip in 1971. The Totem Pole was already "off limits," so we made the
6th ascent of the Titan (photo here) instead.
I would have liked to do Totem Pole, Spider Rock and Cleopatra, though. (Even moreso,
now that it's clear many folks managed to climb them after all). Don, thanks for posting
this historical gold.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 21, 2008 - 09:34am PT
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The 1970 Ascent covers:
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Nov 21, 2008 - 12:42pm PT
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Don
You are incredible. Not only your own stories, but
so much more history. Thanks so much for posting up.
This is better than the history books!
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Jingy
climber
Random Nobody
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Nov 21, 2008 - 01:17pm PT
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Great Vintage(?) photos.
Oh, yeah, in each of the photos I was able to pick out the bodies, even on the iPod.
Great stuff
Thanks
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Author's Reply
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Nov 22, 2008 - 01:26pm PT
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I had never seen that movie. Give us the details. When? Who? How?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 30, 2008 - 04:13pm PT
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Weathered sandstone bump!
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Fletcher
Boulder climber
Institute of Better Bouldering-DirtbagDad Division
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Nov 30, 2008 - 06:34pm PT
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Wow, great photos and and all. Nice.
That movie is awesome. Looks like Ron Kauk is one of the dudes.
Fletch
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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This is an awesome turn of good fortune for the climbing community! I am amazed how much great data is surfacing!
Now if I could only find my old slides from Seneca Rocks,
WV?
Better go buy a Lottery Ticket, cause it's my lucky day!
Thor
Yes, keep up the good work Don, and if you decide on a garage sale of that Treasure Chest of 'old relics' your hiding let us know, ie old rock hammers, pitons, Carabiners etc..!!! Hehehehe
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Bitchin' bump....
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Another installment for this formation from Summit June 1976.
This Ed Cooper shot has the best lighting for seeing the route itself.
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
Arkansas, I suppose
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HOLY CRAP!
What film/camera for the Dolt photos?
Unbelievable clarity on those old slides.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dolt shot with a Leica camera but only Don could likely verify the film type.
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
Arkansas, I suppose
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Thanks Steve.
I still can't get over the clarity of those photos.
Makes me want to quit my job.
I think I'm gonna quit my job...
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Author's Reply
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Dec 7, 2008 - 06:57pm PT
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The slides are Kodachrome
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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bump to another FA read, right on!
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Stonyman61
Trad climber
Hartselle, Alabama
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So awesome. Thanks for sharing. Love the history. One of my favorite films of all times..
BK
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Wow! Cool!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there all.... really do love these photos....
:)
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oldguy
climber
Bronx, NY
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Apr 11, 2009 - 12:57pm PT
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As to the puddle on the summit, it came not from rain which is rare in the region, but from Mark Powell who, since they were being watched by tourists and Navajoes down below, laid down to relieve himself. It should also be noted that when Dolt and Don Wilson were prusiking to the last belay stance they were blown forty feet out and half way around the spire by a fifty mile an hour wind. Quite a ride I would think. Also, the "dropped" ropes story comes from the second ascent when TM Herbert, who was setting the ropes up for the rappel while Rearick and Condon were busy with other chores, simply said, "oops", probably the most understated of TM's wonderful comic bits.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 11, 2009 - 01:44pm PT
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Mark had a pretty good laugh about that incident when I interviewed him recently. The local entrepreneur had seized the moment and bussed several dozen tourists and other interested folks out to witness the spectacle! That puddle of piddle is famous!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 17, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
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That thing looks so killer.
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