Trip Report
Dr. Lepton, Buggs & Survival, "A Rife Of Crimb". Many Photos.
Wednesday April 6, 2011 11:07am
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Lepton speak. Rife Of Crimb. In order to speak in the stereotypical accent of the Japanese climber, you must replace all L sounds with R sounds. Rife of Crimb...get it? To make it fun, you also replace R sounds with L sounds. So on Tribal Rite and the North America Wall, "rope of life" became "Lope of Rife".
On this trip Lepton came up with "Rife of Crimb".
These are the things I learned from Lepton, oh so long ago. These and many more.
He says this will be his only public performance before going back under the radar for another 20 years, so you better enjoy it!
Tribal Rite 3rd ascent team (sans Lesher) reunited after 30 yrs.
Hard to believe it's been 30 feckin' years. In some ways it was just yesterday.
Imagine my excitement when I learned that Lepton would be at my house for 5 days! Here he is helping with the new worm composting pit. (Farmer Bruce you know)
Of course going climbing was a requirement, so we needed a good third man. Hmmmmm, who should it be?
The master of the self portrait, Buggs of course. (Who else?) Scumbucket Jeremy can never sneak out on a weekday.
Off we went, to where the raptors soar, the river sings, and the ancient spirits would watch over us. (The ancient spirits like old men...)
We started with the Mighty Toaster on the sharp end! But only after he finished wanking about it being cold out.
Then came the moment I'd been waiting for, to see Dr. Lepton, the lightest of the light, the worlds greatest anti-freeclimber, climb for the first time in 30 years.
He promised he was going to climb in bowling shoes, but he lied. He also borrowed my prehistoric Joe Brown helmet to keep his giant brain from melting the cliff. Nuclear containment you know......
I freekin' love those shadows!!
Now it was Survivals turn on a new route!! Time to bump up the challenge on the good Dr.......
There are many great photos ahead on three routes. Plus the bonus of Lepton and I going to another magic place!
Thanks for looking Taco-Heads.
Back in a bit!!!
survival
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About the Author survival is a big wall climber from A Token of My Extreme. |
Comments
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Survivar crimbing. Thanks for yet another tr.
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PhotogEC
climber
In front of my computer
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Love all of the photos. The shadows are awesome and the blue sky is absolutely unreal. Looks like a grand time was had by all.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Nice work. Looks like a fun route.
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philo
climber
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Back in a bit!!!
Well you damn well better be! This to good to leave hanging.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Awesome survival, glad to see you climbing with your friends after 30 frigging years. I just turned 36 this week!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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So didjya get off the choss and onto the good-looking stuff up above? :-)
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Apr 6, 2011 - 01:01pm PT
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More photos for Jeremy!!
10b this time! Woot for old guys!
Buggs doin' the deed, with the mighty hands of Dr. Lepton on the belay. The pictures are so much better when they're not just ass shots eh?
More after running some errands!!
Reilly edit: Choss? CHOSS?! I know it's not as bomber as the couch yer layin' on, but we have to take what we can get!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Apr 6, 2011 - 01:39pm PT
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Dr. Lepton showing some love to Amber's basketball.
Joe Brown's turn on the stone again!
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melski
Trad climber
bytheriver
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nice pics token,,glad to see lepton still sporty after all these years,,hey Buggy gimmie a shout one of these days,,peaceandlove brothers,,
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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HaHaHa!!! Good one! And it does actually look halfway decent!
Where is that? And when ya gonna go up to Chama and throw it down on that huge dihedral for us?
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Great climbing shots. That rock looks awesome and no crowds makes it even better. Sheeeeeeeeeeeeet yeah!
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Another fun story of climbing derring-do.
Where is the part about searching for the Lost-Tribe of prehistoric women hiding?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Apr 6, 2011 - 02:41pm PT
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Reilly, PM me about what to do in Chama. I'd LOVE to do that TR!
I'll never tell you where it is, choss-hater.
TJI, crowds? Hell yeah bro, we were joking about that out there too. Crowds...sheesh, not one other party, PERIOD! I hate it here.
Melski? Feckin' MELSKI?? My gawd man, WELCOME TO THE MADHOUSE!!
Now get your ass down here for some routes.
On to the next route!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Glate TL Sulvivar
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lepton
climber
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The people that run the Witness Protection Program are really going to be upset about this!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Apr 6, 2011 - 07:14pm PT
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Don't worry, the people from WPP don't know you as Dr. Lepton, they know you as Dr. Phibes. You are a man of many faces....
Time for a few Survival Hero shots!
The trickiest route of the day.
One of the crux's
Another tricky bit.
More to come!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Apr 7, 2011 - 11:57am PT
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Time for a blast of photos!!
This was another 5.10 pitch by the way.
Coming up, the Lepton ascent and Survival and Lep's "vision quest"!
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal Ca.
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-you just gotta love these guys!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Apr 7, 2011 - 05:10pm PT
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Thanks Jobee and Jeremy!
Lepton's greatest test of the day. Not only was he a devout aid climber back in the day, but now he is prez. of the AARP, and has turned bike weenie and bunged his shoulder up to boot.
So this last route was quite a challenge since it involves so many different kinds of movement and has about 4-5 distinct cruxes.
He climbed well and loved it. We may well fashion some semblance of a freeclimber out of him yet.....
The Final Lepton Salute!!
Next up, The Spirit Quest!!
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Robb
Social climber
Cat Box
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Oh my word it's the Lepton Man!!!!!!
HI CHRIS!!!!!!!!!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Da Cosmic Banditos are back at it!!!!!
bbut, bbbut, BUGGS, BALD????? Tell me it ain't so, Bruuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuse!!!!!!!!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Awesome Bruce!,
Thanks for posting! Good to see you getting out with the old guard!
-e
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Seems like only yesterday I saw Chris holding court with not one, but two Valley nubiles who were chanting, "Lepton, Lepton we love you."
He smiled at me and said, "gotta go now, see ya".
Great to see you still at it Chris.
Regards,
Perry
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lepton
climber
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Hey Robb and Chief, amazing to hear from you guys. I read a rife of crimb these days, but what is truly amazing is how Sulvivar managed to photoshop out all those embarrassing pee stains. I tried to sneak some aiders up there but......
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Robb
Social climber
Cat Box
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It's OK Chris. Just remember, despite the supposed evolution of "climbing" these days only COWARDS hesitate to SLAM METAL into cracks!!!
Reminds me, I've got to go back & retrieve those angles in MT. that were ringing like bells when I was done with them.
PS: Round eye, yu du numbah one topp roop berry guud!!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Apr 8, 2011 - 10:57am PT
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It's great to see Lepton hooking up with other guys he knows from BITD.
Too much climbing content for the crowd here? Ok, let's change gears a little bit. Time for the evening art to kick in.
After climbing Buggs had to get home, so after dropping him off I took Lepton to one of my favorite desert hideaways. He loves the desert as much as I do, so it was an easily agreed upon move.
By the time we got there the evening light was just perfect for enjoying the colors of the high desert.
Lepton found a miniature stone volcano.
It was warm and perfectly quiet. We were quickly absorbed into the spirit of the place, and our pace slowed so we could fully appreciate the magic.
We photographed both the macro and the micro worlds.
Eons of time lay stretched out before us and we quickly became spellbound.
Lepton spotted a couple shadows that were following us around.
We were both taken by the colors and the contrast in the shadows.
The climber in me won't leave me alone!!
Twisted Desert Beauty.........sounds like a band name?
Of course my love of bonsai trees never leaves me either. I'm always on the hunt for the gnarly little survivor.
Killer hoodoo boulders were everywhere.
I sniffed around under some rocks and found the most amazing little world hiding under one.
More art photos to come!
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lepton
climber
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Hard to believe that all this stuff happened in one day. Maybe we should change the name of the thread to, "Why do Christian Repulicans like to take it in the B$%# while Dr Lepton, Buggs and Survival etc. etc......
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Apr 9, 2011 - 10:03am PT
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Sorry bro, but you're right. That's the only way to get any real action on a thread around here.
Many folks bitch about the poli-threads, but that's where it happens because certain posters can yell over and over about the same thing while not being heard at all.
There's only 30+ posts here from the same guys and gals that visit all my photo threads, and some of them are from people that actually come back, like Jeremy and Reilly.
There's only a sixty-plus photos on this thread, but it's not climbing in California, so that doesn't work either. You'd think that people would enjoy seeing more that's not Yos around here.
But it's sorta like getting into a car and hearing a song that you've never heard before on the radio. Most people will flip the dial until they find The Eagles or Van Halen......
Oh well, we do it for ourselves and the people that do enjoy it. Won't ever make the big time....HA!!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Box of 100 rollirops in the mail for your effort Survival-Just rove rooking at all your photos!
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climber bob
Social climber
maine
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and you guys didn't call me..light on repton...looks like fun
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Badass TR, Survival.
I love a good reunion tour. And your take on your various surroundings. Big fat TFPU, fer sure.
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lepton
climber
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CLIMBER BOOOOOOOOOOOOOB!!!!!!!!! Hell Yeah! If I pay for the plane ticket, will you come next time?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Apr 9, 2011 - 10:40am PT
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Thanks Guido, Bob and Skully. (Oh yeah, and Fritz up above)
Guido, I promised I was going to show Lepton the picture of you slab climbing with Harding, but never did....NEXT TIME!
Back for some more desert magic photos.
Worlds within worlds out there....
Jackson Pollack stopped by.
Dr. Phibes and I made plans to hike this ridge together.
Evening light in the pines.
Look at the light under that stacked cheeseburger out there!
Ghosts of yesteryear artwork....
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lepton
climber
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Hey survival, we should have taken more pictures111!!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Apr 9, 2011 - 05:05pm PT
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what pictures????
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Apr 11, 2011 - 11:44am PT
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Self bump for a great photo thread.
My jones for awesome bonsai trees is never satisfied ! ! !
Old man watching over the mesa....
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 11, 2011 - 12:06pm PT
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Yeha! I'm only connected sporadically at present so just this rock on ! All power to the Leptonman!
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Apr 11, 2011 - 12:07pm PT
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Leptonman, good to see you're alive and having fun.
Cheers
Pat Nay
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climber bob
Social climber
maine
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Apr 12, 2011 - 06:44am PT
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how about a trip to maine?....
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Apr 12, 2011 - 06:50pm PT
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Maine???
Last time I went up there, it was closed....
Dr Lepton wearing the proper head gear to keep aliens from invading his brain. They've tried to take it before.....
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PhotogEC
climber
In front of my computer
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Apr 12, 2011 - 05:23pm PT
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Don't stop there! Keep the good stuff coming!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Apr 13, 2011 - 10:50am PT
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Sorry it took me so long to chime in...
Climbing, old bros, cool trees, magic light ...
Your tr's are all the same.
And I like it.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Apr 13, 2011 - 10:57am PT
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Great desert magic photos Bruce, is this near Socorro new mexico?
Thanks
-ezra
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Apr 13, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
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Blind Melon Chitlin' and Pretty Boy Floyd
Ready to lead a Rife Of Crimb.
Climbing, old bros, cool trees, magic light ...
Your tr's are all the same.
And I like it.
Gotta be one of my favorite posts of all time. Thanks Jefe.
Ezra edit: Not so near Socorro, more near somewhere else.
More near Jemez Pueblo.....
Climber Bob edit: Good comeback bro!
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Buggs
Trad climber
Corrales, New Mexico
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Apr 21, 2011 - 08:23am PT
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Nicely done.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Apr 21, 2011 - 12:26pm PT
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B B B B BBBBBBBBUGGS!!
Glad you finally threw down a few words homie.
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Apr 21, 2011 - 02:56pm PT
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great TR.. you guys are superliously instinctual in your climbing. So is the location not mentioned cuz everyone knows it or cuz you just as soon not mention it? .......very cool little volcano!
bumpin up for a way good time
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Apr 21, 2011 - 03:51pm PT
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Hey Lucky Pink, thanks for the looksee.
Super...superli....superliously?? Dang, what kinda newfangled wordsmithin' is that? Are you gonna make me look it up?
I just realized i called one of my partners:
Dr Lepton
Dr Phibes
Prez of AARP
Joe Brown and
Pretty Boy Floyd....all in one thread! Sh*t, he IS a man of many faces!
Location is left out intentionally. I have done it on numerous threads. There are a few folks around here that know where it is, but I like to make people think, wonder, a bit.
I think it adds one little layer, instead of spouting the location, as though that were a really important part of the experience.
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melski
Trad climber
bytheriver
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Apr 25, 2011 - 09:57pm PT
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I thought the cosmic banditos went underground years ago{still pimping I:m shure}but always glad to see one or two surface,,,just the colors of where ever you are make me want to skip next months visa payment to buy the TICKET,,peaceand love,,,
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Apr 26, 2011 - 09:25am PT
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BUY THE TICKET MEL!!!
I know your partner in crime up there would love you for it.
We have 8 gallons of homemade wine........
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Dec 26, 2012 - 06:22pm PT
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Oh, well herro, most exerrent trip report.
You rike climbing? Haha, me too.
I know, it's racist, but it's all in good fun. I'm OK with my east coastah accent. It sounds wicked funny to outsidahs.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Dec 26, 2012 - 06:41pm PT
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Gneiss job, guys@!!!!!
How's Buggs, doin', Survival????
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jul 16, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
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eKat, I ROVE YOU!!
Steve, Buggs is now in the witness protection program.
I'm only allowed to take him off the shelf for special occasions!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 16, 2013 - 10:12pm PT
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Give my best to the brave l'il toaster!!!
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RyanD
climber
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Jul 17, 2013 - 01:35am PT
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Beautifur photos, I rove the deselt. Especiarry in the evening right!
Wele is this??!?!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 11, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
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Thanks again eKat!!!
U numba one hero!!
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okie
Trad climber
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Nov 11, 2013 - 11:38pm PT
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I remember the Lepton Man. Great guy as I recall. I remember he had some first ascent on the Falls Wall he was telling us about at the time. This climb was to the right of the spire in those corners. The last handhold was the overlook railing up there as I recall but maybe my memory is fading...
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