Trip Report
Eagle Scout Creek Dome - FA of Direct West Face (IV 5.11 C1)

by Vitaliy M.
Tuesday September 15, 2015 11:36am
Initially, I saw the Eagle Scout Creek Dome in 2012. It was my first time in Sequoia National Park and my first BIG adventure climb - FA on the Fortress, the climb that foreshadowed my preoccupation with the unknown.

Eagle Scout Creek Dome isn't the biggest or the most striking wall around. In fact there are badass spires to the south, north and to the east as well! BUT, it resembles a miniature version of Half Dome, which I find to be awesome!

Earlier this year, while approaching the Angel Wings, I had a chance to look at the thing from up close. As I was inhaling brownies at Bearpaw, I put on the zoom lens on my camera and snapped a dozen photos of the steep west face. As soon as I returned home and looked at the close ups, I was scheming an outing!

Read the whole thing and see all the photos on my blog. I would re-post it as I always do but have literary no free time for all that this week. Things have been busy. Some free time may be wasted for lurking and trolling, but not for re-posting the content. Things should ease up in a few weeks though...I hope. :)

http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/2015/09/eagle-scout-creek-dome-fa-of-direct.html


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top left corner top right corner
Big buttress in the background is close to 2000 feet!
Big buttress in the background is close to 2000 feet!
Credit: Vitaliy M.
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Needles? Granite spires of South America?! Nope...A future destination! YUP!

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  Trip Report Views: 2,660
Vitaliy M. 		About the Author
Vitaliy M. is an annoying gym climber from San Francisco.

Comments
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Sep 15, 2015 - 11:50am PT
Out of my pay scale, but sweeeet climbing content!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Sep 15, 2015 - 11:58am PT
Kevin, thanks, it was a fun day. We thought of bailing from the middle of the climb because things were continuously hard but decided to keep on going taking it pitch at a time.
Many more photos are in the full report, as I said earlier:
http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/2015/09/eagle-scout-creek-dome-fa-of-direct.html

The upper section was not the hard part. The corner up there looked good but very steep and hard, if possible. Would not be a possible onsight for us. At that point just getting to the top was the goal. If someone cares to free the line, they will have to walk and find out.

Blah blah blah awesome new route in remote places and rad adventures, but where's the politics, religious debating, and slander?

We save that for the approach chatter! :) .....NOT!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Sep 15, 2015 - 12:35pm PT
You're keeping some secrets aren't you...

I should add, THE OPPOSITE is true!

CHECK OUT PHOTOS OF THOSE NEEDLES AND THE BUTTRESS BEHIND BRIAN! I am sharing WAYYYYY too much here! If I cared to keep all that rock and all the other potential lines to myself, I would not post any of that...

After this trip, I took a vacation from work and we climbed only two of those spires! And only two routes (1400-1800 ft!!!) on that giant South Face of Hamilton Dome. Both were GREAT, one is likely BETTER than South Face of Charlotte Dome. Goes at 5.10- with climbing splitters, pulling roofs on giant jugs, laybacks, cool face climbing. We were stoked to discover that thing.

And there is much more to do! I am not territorial, nor I care to hide all the gems that I discover. It is awesome to see other people get out far and put up new lines (I will post about that trip later). Encourage others to get out there and climb! Maybe repeat a few of our routes, maybe climb only new lines? Have your own fun. Won't see anyone out there. Pristine environment, alpine lakes, streams, trout and LOTS of AWESOME granite. We did not find much choss out there.

And Tokopah Domes too. People should get out and put up some FAs there!
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  Sep 15, 2015 - 12:34pm PT
Very impressive - TFPU!

I love this shot:
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
  Sep 15, 2015 - 12:51pm PT
I am stunned most of all at your willingness and ability to SHARE the magic. Thanks for sharing!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Sep 15, 2015 - 12:59pm PT
Righteous, V. How hard do you think it'll be to eliminate the C1? I know you guys were pushing for the top, but if you worked on it I mean? Also, man, so you're backcountry OS'ing .11c during IAD FA's. Respect.

Agree with Ed H. Anybody who likes to climb granite cracks is going to be pulled in by that shot. Just evokes thinking about all the techniques you'd use to keep it doable at a steep angle.

Need to get to these western slope areas. How long is the drive from your front door to the TH parking?
L

climber
Just livin' the dream
  Sep 15, 2015 - 01:05pm PT
Another excellent TR, V!

The long shot of the four valleys is spectacular.
John Duffield

Mountain climber
New York
  Sep 15, 2015 - 01:23pm PT
Awesome!!!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Sep 15, 2015 - 01:41pm PT
How long is the drive from your front door to the TH parking?

Not sure, same as the drive to the Valley. Maybe 30 mins longer at most?


Not sure how hard or easy it would be to free it. Would depend on chosen variations etc. No idea honestly.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
  Sep 15, 2015 - 01:47pm PT
Simply outstanding.... Thanks for the share.

Distance protects against others poaching the lines.
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
  Sep 15, 2015 - 02:49pm PT
TFPU. Great post.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Sep 15, 2015 - 03:01pm PT
Homez, go up to Hamilton lake, head towards the pit toilet, but cut short before you get there. It is between the two big boulders, covered by branches and other stuff to make it look innocent. If you use it, you owe us a trip report about sending the gnar! No keeping the experience to yourself!
Cat T + Warbler = FAs :)

By the way, after all these weeks of extreme hiking I felt useless while cragging. Almost fell leading some 5.10s and felt really weak on harder climbs. Humbled by rock once again. Time to crag more and hike less!
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Sep 15, 2015 - 05:01pm PT
My ankles hurt. . .
step by step is blow to blow, to me,No gush left in the joints you see,
if I quit I am coming out there to chase after the nurse!
I can see some free lines that look to be 5.3 d, or a bit harder.
cat t.

climber
california
  Sep 15, 2015 - 05:09pm PT
Cat T + Warbler = FAs :)
Hahaha wanna team up to scoop all Vitaliy's dream lines?!?
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Sep 15, 2015 - 08:12pm PT
Excellent Vitaliy!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Sep 15, 2015 - 09:06pm PT
Woah Kitty is asking Kevin out on a date! Did not take long...hire Burchy as the packer, I heard he is packing! You guys can send the 5.3 d harr harr line I scoped. Can even point you in the right direction...

South fork of granite creek. There is a dome out there with easy cracks to begin the route and jugs forever after the crack. Search for the routes that go up it. Supposedly called Granite Creek Dome. I predict a Stanford Alpine Club expedition 2016 :) sharing is caring!

PS: Burchy, that guy looks like me morning after hiking out from Valhalla..very happy and very ugly.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Sep 15, 2015 - 09:24pm PT
She could pack in our TV and the Man Show DVDs. Seriously though, a week long trip to Valhalla, with a cook. That sounds sooo damn good. On that long trip we had, we took one day off swimming in Hamilton lake, reading Hamlet and basically eating abandoned food from the bear box. That was probably the best rest day I had in my life. It is honestly hard to describe with words how awesome that camp is. And the whole beach thing. Just amazing. When I die I want my friends to take my ashes, divide them into 10 or more parts and spread them across the Sierra. Part from Bubbs Creek wall, part from the Angel Wings, Erickson Crag #3, Tehipite Dome, Castle Rock Spire, Flatiron Butte, Thunderbolt peak, Incredible Hulk, Mt. Darwin, Clyde Minaret, Carl Heller, some place in the Gorge of Despair, some from Half Dome and maybe a few cool places only Daniel knows...

Anyway, let's not think of my ashes, honestly hope we all can hang out together at some point in the future. Would be fun. October 24th is my birthday weekend. So everyone is invited, even though I have no solid plan yet. Don't think it will involve giant hikes though. Was thinking of the good old yosemite but seems like all campsites etc are reserved already for Friday and Saturday nights..maybe Shuteye or Bishop if the pass is opened.
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Sep 15, 2015 - 09:39pm PT
Looks dumb
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Sep 16, 2015 - 10:01am PT
I saw your Facebook teaser on this route, Vitaliy, and this TR didn't disappoint. Your amazing roll continues.

Warbler, getting to the backcountry with packers opens up lots of possibilities, I'm sure. In 1971 we were backpacking across the Ionian Basin. When we got to Neitzsche Col, we saw a group of at least 20 hiking toward Muir pass, each carrying nothing more than small knapsacks. Our bewilderment cleared up a bit later when we saw the mule train following. It turned out to be Robert McNamara and his buddies from the World Bank.

About ten years late, I tried that idea with some friends at rather lower elevations, but the amount of climbing gear we took was dwarfed by the amount of alcoholic beverages we packed, and I found myself standing in line with the others trying to drive a golf ball across one of the Dinkey Lakes. (I sent a couple to a watery grave, but a few succeeded). We managed to do some nice climbing on Dogtooth Peak once we sobered up, though.

John
cat t.

climber
california
  Sep 16, 2015 - 10:27am PT
how bout he an I do them and you keep camp in order an have a hot meal waiting for us
real women climb AND cook ;)
NutAgain!

Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
  Sep 16, 2015 - 11:26am PT
Seems like the next round of sierra guidebooks is going to be plastered with Vitaliy. Representin' for the generation.

Congrats for taking stock of your life and committing to live it in a badass way and reap the rewards for it. And thanks for bringing us along on the ride.
Matt's

climber
  Sep 16, 2015 - 12:13pm PT
I hiked a section of the Muir Trail with Galen Rowell, he was working for National Geographic, and we had a couple packers, around 8 mules, and a female cook. Cast iron cookware, lawn chairs, tables, luxury. That wonderful woman would get up at any hour requested to make us breakfast - bacon, eggs, biscuits, pancakes, hash browns, orange juice, coffee, hot chocolate, the works. We'd scarf that down at the crack of dawn, and saunter off to do a nice long FA. Of course dinner was waiting when we returned, lasagna, steak, mashed potatoes, salad, deep dish apple pie, AND she did all the cleanup and packing for the next move. All with a big smile, an a Texas twang.

Warbler, it sounds like you want to marry your mom...
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Sep 16, 2015 - 02:43pm PT
What I find interesting is where you guys went, what you climbed, what you liked and didn't like out there (Kevin)? Sounds like a trip of a lifetime. Would love to hear the story, which would be a great independent post on the forum...
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Sep 18, 2015 - 06:28pm PT
Inspiring V. Thank you!!!
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