Trip Report
Easy, Well-Protected Grit (Is Still Hard!) (TR)
Tuesday March 30, 2010 11:33am
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So, like, I'm here a mere 3.5 hours away from the land of Hard Grit, and what do I do but sit on my arse all the time?! That ain't right. So I invited myself to a climbing trip that some old friends, some newer friends, and some soon-to-become friends were putting together in the Peak District, UK, this past weekend. Oy!
This is Stanage Edge. It's kinda like a squeezed Gunks - squashed vertically, stretched horizontally. Very similar horizontal striation, but on rock that feels more like, er... nothing I've touched before. JTree is maybe the closest in coarseness, but not really the same.
The grittiness of this here gritstone means you don't really need holds, I'm told by the locals. You're supposed to kinda plaster yourself over the face and use the friction generated by your body area to hold yourself in place. I'm also told that the British grades are different and "E" stands for "Easy" and the easiest one is "E10". Well, that's clearly too easy for me, so I climbed things with grades like "Very Difficult" and "Severe" (they even had some holds!).
Man, even easy, well-protected grit is hard! I'll have to go back to get my head around it. When's the next trip?
Paulina
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About the Author Paulina is a trad climber from . |
Comments
Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Mar 30, 2010 - 12:07pm PT
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Very nice - a place which I have fond memories of. The rock is sufficiently textured that you can do a lot of climbing even if it's wet, which it often is.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Mar 30, 2010 - 12:38pm PT
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Great report!
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Mar 30, 2010 - 01:36pm PT
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Thanks for the trip report. That place is fantastic- like a well organized joshua tree. Nothing too tall, but lots of it, and all in a straight line.
The rock is grippy, I climbed in the rain and snow a few times when I was there.
That being said, I was soloing a lot. I went to do this cool looking big roof not too high off the ground that then goes to this big loafy face, right in the middle of stanage. A very proud line for the place, and not too hard.
I slipped twice, it must get done a lot because the feet were pretty polished, or heck, maybe my shoes were wet. Either way, I went back to the ground, and found an easier climb.
Edit- I just looked at the photos and I think the climb I'm talking about is right there in the middle of the cliff.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 30, 2010 - 02:40pm PT
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It's even harder in the dark.
The mad people who took me out to their local grit when I visited didn't let a little thing like sunset stop the fun. They just broke out the coleman lanterns, and kept on climbing. No light. No Ropes. No problem.
Well, except for me. Being unable to see in the dark is kind of a problem for highball bouldering at night if you haven't got all the problems wired. I'd get up a few moves, to the point where the lanterns weren't helping any more, and have to bail.
Good fun, though.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Mar 30, 2010 - 03:05pm PT
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Love the last shot of the runout over puddle!
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Paulina
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Author's Reply
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Mar 30, 2010 - 05:39pm PT
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I wish I could tell you, Tom, what you were climbing, but I have no clue about any names of routes or even places there...
Thanks for sharing your stories!
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Mar 30, 2010 - 05:46pm PT
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Yeah- that's where I was at too. I just walked up the hill for three days in a row to climb. I found partners sometimes, other times I didn't.
I didn't have a guidebook, not that it would have mattered. The ratings were very entertaining. VS, HVS, and E.
I tried an E1, I fell. I was living in Yosemite at the time so I could climb cracks pretty well. I racked up with all these cams, like you would in Yosemite. These guys from Wales who I met, just started laughing and pointing to all their friends about how many cams I loaded up.
It turns out that the rock there has way more constrictions, so they use a lot of stoppers. I learned the hard way, but I guess I always do.
the E1 that I did was a crack to the left of that photo of the cliff.
There was a 5.8 crack over there that I did by myself. It was good and more Yosemite like, above some boulders if I remember right.
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oli warlow
Trad climber
U.K.
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Mar 31, 2010 - 01:17pm PT
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I think the roof you are talking about is maybe Flying Butress Direct. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10372
The place with the puddle called Lawrencefield is a bit different as it is quarried rock (like Millstone). The rock tends to be a bit less grippy, but you get more cracks and holds!
Oli
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Mar 31, 2010 - 04:44pm PT
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Nope- that's not it, but I think it was a ways left of there. I tried to scroll left on that website link you posted, but no dice.
You sort of climbed under a roof on a rail to the right then up a whole bunch of bread slices to the top at about 5.7 or so, I think.
Anyway, it's funny how you remember the climbs that you didn't do almost more than the ones you did.
At the end of the day, I guess my point is that Stanage and the grit are sweet.
I too took a tourist trip in the rain to see the master's edge. Zoinks!
Edit: the one I'm thinking of might be right above the head of the walker in the first photo. There was a crack that split the big loafy face.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Pretty cool looking crag!
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Paulina, Thanks for the TR.
I've never had the chance to go to Great Britain, but one of these days...
Meanwhile, I periodically watch my favorite climbing video of all time "Dave Birkett - Set in Stone". Have you seen it? It's totally inspiring.
Phyl
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Jeremy Handren
climber
NV
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The route above the water is Pool Wall (E5 6b) at Lawrencfield, just across the road from Millstone.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Oli- that looks like it!
FA 1922. Totally cool.
One of these days I'll get back there.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Bump on your head if you fall.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mike is bumping climbing threads!
I join team!!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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great Grit!!!
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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gritty bucket list bump
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