Trip Report
End of season Poke-O fun.
Tuesday November 15, 2011 10:13pm
We’ve had an unseasonably warm fall/early winter in the ADK and Northeast. Luckily, I’ve been fortunate enough to get a few climbs in as the season comes to a close. I teach with my climbing partner Don Mellor, and we spent our Sunday together away from the classrooms at Poke-O-Moonshine. We regularly send supertopo and 8a.nu posts back and forth, so I joked that I would make a trip report since it would probably be our final climb of the season together. I'll keep it short and sweet...here it goes:
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approach...
approach...
Credit: perrotr
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We planned on climbing “Bloody Mary” – 5.9+, and to traverse over to the final pitch of “Gamesmanship”. The climbing was varied and lots of fun. Crimps, jugs, finger cracks, jamming, flakes, etc.

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approach... "The Sting" - 5.8?  Fun climb earlier this summer.
approach... "The Sting" - 5.8? Fun climb earlier this summer.
Credit: perrotr
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looking up Bloody Mary  (...that just sounds wrong)
looking up Bloody Mary (...that just sounds wrong)
Credit: perrotr
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from the start
from the start
Credit: perrotr
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P1 was short, but sweet.

P2 and P3 were the highlights: A tough roof pull (crux) and sustained climbing with big exposure. The belay for P3 was awesome.

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Credit: perrotr
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from the belay station
from the belay station
Credit: perrotr
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Credit: perrotr
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For the record- yes, I was wearing camo pants, and yes, Don proceeded to make fun of me.

P4 was a scramble traverse over to “Gamesmanship”. Although easy, it was still lots of fun.

P5 of Gamesmanship was a short handcrack that ran out to ski rails and finger cracks. One tricky move at the start to easier moves as the pitch progressed.

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Don leading the way
Don leading the way
Credit: perrotr
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The Rappel was awesome. Lots of exposure and air. Fun adventures with the Don.

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Credit: perrotr
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Credit: perrotr
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Poke-O from the road.
Poke-O from the road.
Credit: perrotr
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Until next season!


  Trip Report Views: 2,980
perrotr
About the Author
perrotr is a climber from Lake Placid, NY.

Comments
Bowser

Social climber
Durango CO
  Nov 15, 2011 - 10:18pm PT
Nice TR. Looks like some good rock and a cool line.
bergbryce

climber
East Bay, CA
  Nov 15, 2011 - 10:18pm PT
Nice!
Where is Poke-O??
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Nov 15, 2011 - 10:33pm PT
Sweet ! I guess it will be ice season soon ..
Zander

climber
  Nov 15, 2011 - 10:56pm PT
Sa'wee'eet!
Zander
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 15, 2011 - 10:57pm PT
Love the camo-pants, thanks!!!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Nov 16, 2011 - 12:37am PT
Read a lot about that place but never seem to see a good photo. That looks like a great cliff. Do the ice routes form up on the same portion of cliff?
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
  Nov 16, 2011 - 06:45am PT
Sweet!

I remember doing both those climbs with my son, on my only visit to Poko.
I've got to admire John Turner for his boldness, BITD. He was one hell of a climber for putting in routes like that.
YoungGun

climber
North
  Nov 16, 2011 - 08:00am PT
Sweet!! That line is on my tick list. Next season, hopefully. Thanks for the photos!

Earlier this summer I did Fastest Gun (5.10) just next to it -- super enjoyable sustained climbing. Highly recommended.
Aya K

Trad climber
Boulder, CO!
  Nov 16, 2011 - 08:21am PT
Not really the middle of New York, actually it's very far north in the Adirondacks, less than an hour from the border with Canada. Quite a tall cliff, with a ton (I mean a ton) of classic rock and ice routes. Approach measured in minutes. Multiple bands of cliffs - slabs, tall steep stuff, short steep stuff, cracks, corners, dikes, everything. Only downside is that it's close to the interstate and the truck and traffic noise is a bummer.

You can see some topos here http://adirondackrock.com/goodies.htm
Morgan

Trad climber
East Coast
  Nov 16, 2011 - 09:16am PT
That's a cool link-up.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Nov 16, 2011 - 09:23am PT
I love the camo pants and mincy little shoes- nice combo! Poke-O sounds like a good crag, I should get up there one of these days.
Tozo

Trad climber
East of West
  Nov 16, 2011 - 11:06am PT
Here's a hi-res Poke-o Pano a few years ago. Click below. Big long cliff for the east. Fastest Gun, Bloody Mary and Gamesmanship are to the left of the obvious orange spot.

Poke-o-moonshine!!
Gunkie

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
  Nov 16, 2011 - 11:11am PT
I haven't been to PokeO for a l-o-n-g time and I *love* Lake Placid. We always get up to Whiteface for a weekend every season. That is a full valued mountain. But what I've always enjoyed about PokeO and other areas up there are the special little resting edges that pop-up just at the right time. Fun climbing! Thanks for the trip report!
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
  Nov 16, 2011 - 12:36pm PT
Poko is a world-class crag that remains rather off the beaten track in spite of its roadside location.

Two BITD shots:

Bloody Mary


Freedom Flight


Higher on Freedome Flight (from Adirondack Rock http://adirondackrock.com/index.htm.); This is an amazing guidebbook that catalogs an extensive and hard-to-describe area.

perrotr

climber
Author's Reply  Nov 16, 2011 - 04:15pm PT
Tozo - That hi-res photo is awesome!!! Looks a lot bigger without the vegetation this time of year. I did "the sting" and "gamesmanship" early in the summer. Two really good cracks. Fastest Gun, Freedom Flight, and The Great Dihedral (all 4/5 star climbs) are on the to do list for next season.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
  Nov 16, 2011 - 05:10pm PT
The gigapan of Poko, http://gigapan.org/gigapans/27098/, enables you to zoom in to almost hold level.
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