Trip Report
End of season Poke-O fun.
Tuesday November 15, 2011 10:13pm
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We’ve had an unseasonably warm fall/early winter in the ADK and Northeast. Luckily, I’ve been fortunate enough to get a few climbs in as the season comes to a close. I teach with my climbing partner Don Mellor, and we spent our Sunday together away from the classrooms at Poke-O-Moonshine. We regularly send supertopo and 8a.nu posts back and forth, so I joked that I would make a trip report since it would probably be our final climb of the season together. I'll keep it short and sweet...here it goes:
We planned on climbing “Bloody Mary” – 5.9+, and to traverse over to the final pitch of “Gamesmanship”. The climbing was varied and lots of fun. Crimps, jugs, finger cracks, jamming, flakes, etc.
P1 was short, but sweet.
P2 and P3 were the highlights: A tough roof pull (crux) and sustained climbing with big exposure. The belay for P3 was awesome.
For the record- yes, I was wearing camo pants, and yes, Don proceeded to make fun of me.
P4 was a scramble traverse over to “Gamesmanship”. Although easy, it was still lots of fun.
P5 of Gamesmanship was a short handcrack that ran out to ski rails and finger cracks. One tricky move at the start to easier moves as the pitch progressed.
The Rappel was awesome. Lots of exposure and air. Fun adventures with the Don.
Until next season!
perrotr
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About the Author perrotr is a climber from Lake Placid, NY. |
Comments
Bowser
Social climber
Durango CO
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Nov 15, 2011 - 10:18pm PT
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Nice TR. Looks like some good rock and a cool line.
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bergbryce
climber
East Bay, CA
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Nov 15, 2011 - 10:18pm PT
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Nice!
Where is Poke-O??
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Nov 15, 2011 - 10:33pm PT
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Sweet ! I guess it will be ice season soon ..
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Zander
climber
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Nov 15, 2011 - 10:56pm PT
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Sa'wee'eet!
Zander
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Nov 15, 2011 - 10:57pm PT
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Love the camo-pants, thanks!!!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Nov 16, 2011 - 12:37am PT
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Read a lot about that place but never seem to see a good photo. That looks like a great cliff. Do the ice routes form up on the same portion of cliff?
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Nov 16, 2011 - 06:45am PT
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Sweet!
I remember doing both those climbs with my son, on my only visit to Poko.
I've got to admire John Turner for his boldness, BITD. He was one hell of a climber for putting in routes like that.
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YoungGun
climber
North
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Nov 16, 2011 - 08:00am PT
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Sweet!! That line is on my tick list. Next season, hopefully. Thanks for the photos!
Earlier this summer I did Fastest Gun (5.10) just next to it -- super enjoyable sustained climbing. Highly recommended.
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Aya K
Trad climber
Boulder, CO!
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Nov 16, 2011 - 08:21am PT
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Not really the middle of New York, actually it's very far north in the Adirondacks, less than an hour from the border with Canada. Quite a tall cliff, with a ton (I mean a ton) of classic rock and ice routes. Approach measured in minutes. Multiple bands of cliffs - slabs, tall steep stuff, short steep stuff, cracks, corners, dikes, everything. Only downside is that it's close to the interstate and the truck and traffic noise is a bummer.
You can see some topos here http://adirondackrock.com/goodies.htm
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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Nov 16, 2011 - 09:16am PT
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That's a cool link-up.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Nov 16, 2011 - 09:23am PT
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I love the camo pants and mincy little shoes- nice combo! Poke-O sounds like a good crag, I should get up there one of these days.
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Tozo
Trad climber
East of West
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Nov 16, 2011 - 11:06am PT
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Here's a hi-res Poke-o Pano a few years ago. Click below. Big long cliff for the east. Fastest Gun, Bloody Mary and Gamesmanship are to the left of the obvious orange spot.
Poke-o-moonshine!!
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Nov 16, 2011 - 11:11am PT
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I haven't been to PokeO for a l-o-n-g time and I *love* Lake Placid. We always get up to Whiteface for a weekend every season. That is a full valued mountain. But what I've always enjoyed about PokeO and other areas up there are the special little resting edges that pop-up just at the right time. Fun climbing! Thanks for the trip report!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Nov 16, 2011 - 12:36pm PT
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Poko is a world-class crag that remains rather off the beaten track in spite of its roadside location.
Two BITD shots:
Bloody Mary
Freedom Flight
Higher on Freedome Flight (from Adirondack Rock http://adirondackrock.com/index.htm.); This is an amazing guidebbook that catalogs an extensive and hard-to-describe area.
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perrotr
climber
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Author's Reply
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Nov 16, 2011 - 04:15pm PT
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Tozo - That hi-res photo is awesome!!! Looks a lot bigger without the vegetation this time of year. I did "the sting" and "gamesmanship" early in the summer. Two really good cracks. Fastest Gun, Freedom Flight, and The Great Dihedral (all 4/5 star climbs) are on the to do list for next season.
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