Trip Report
Evolution Basin Ski Tour with Pulmonary Edema and Helo Evac
Tuesday May 23, 2017 12:07pm
|
|
Adventure started at the Lake Sabrina campground on Wednesday night.
Thursday 8am ish we headed down the trail. Splitter weather. Somewhat complex route finding to get to Echo Col. Beautiful views of Picture Peak. Got to unmelted snow just under Echo Col by about 3pm. We crossed, having to tunnel through a cornice on the JMT-side of the Col. Camped at Lake 11,400.
Friday crossed Muir Pass and skied Black Giant. Great ski descent. We could see the entire range from Banner and Ritter to the Kaweahs and Whitney.
Friday night a member of the group complains of altitude pains: headache, nausea, can’t eat, can’t drink water. Saturday we spend the day moving down, but we’re trapped: Evolution Basin is just so darn high. The only way to get lower: 15mi to Muir Ranch or else have to hike uphill, which isn’t going to happen. Saturday 7pm he gets helo evac’ed. We get a satellite text message that he gets to the hospital and is recovering from High Altitude Pulmonary Edema. Wow.
Sunday we ski Darwin. One of the best ski descents of my life. Complex feelings fill my thoughts: about our buddy who got evacuated, about my newly born son, about friends who have died in the mountains in the last year, about ravens.
Sunday night we camp atop Lamarck Col. Monday morning we watch the sunrise over the White Mountains and enjoy another fine ski descent. Rather clean (minimal bushwhacking) descent to North Lake Road and our cars.
Parting thoughts: satellite texting saved us, going over Echo Cool on day one maybe too aggressive, the Sierras can be more remote than they feel.
bradL
|
|
About the Author bradL is a trad climber from Lake Tahoe, NV. |
Comments
lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
|
|
|
May 23, 2017 - 12:21pm PT
|
Wow, what an adventure. Hope your buddy is recovering well. Best-lars
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
|
May 23, 2017 - 12:40pm PT
|
Thanks for sharing, good stuff.
What would have happened w/o the heli rescue, do you think? Would your friend have been able to hoof it over the col eventually?
|
|
bradL
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, NV
|
|
Author's Reply
|
May 23, 2017 - 12:46pm PT
|
It would have been rough. He could barely walk. We would have made a sled from his skis and manhauled him over Lamarck. But with his symptoms presenting at 10,500', this would have been risky.
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
|
|
|
May 23, 2017 - 12:50pm PT
|
Looks like a wonderful trip, but marred by scary stuff w/ partner. Hope he heals fully and quickly. How was his aerobic conditioning and prior experience over 10k feet?
|
|
bradL
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, NV
|
|
Author's Reply
|
May 23, 2017 - 02:10pm PT
|
Yes, he is a pretty fit guy. Regular 1hr cardio/day plus some recent longer workouts at moderate elevation. Doesn't seem obvious that his fitness was the problem. But would better fitness have possibly prevented the problem? I'm not sure.
|
|
tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
May 23, 2017 - 06:00pm PT
|
Fitness? Maybe, but how about there was some other underlying illnes/condition. Pulmenary edema happens in the Sierra, but the few times I've seen it there was another health isssue going on. Undiagnosed heart condition in one, and the onset of lupis in another.
It could also be bad luck. Either way, not something to be trifled with. I've seen it fatal one time, blue lips and bloody spittle another.
|
|
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
|
May 23, 2017 - 05:56pm PT
|
Good thing it all worked out.
Beautiful photos.
Thanks for posting.
|
|
ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
|
|
|
May 23, 2017 - 06:00pm PT
|
nice photos, please post more of Mendel NF if you can
regarding the sickness -- would you elaborate your acclimatization schedule? perhaps you came from one of the metropolitan areas in the West that are near sea level (e.g. LA, SF)? if that's so, you went from just above sea level to 10,000 feet on Wed, and stayed above 10,000 for the next 48-72 hours
if that's the scenario, I'm kind of surprised by problems becoming acute after 2-3 days in the BC. maybe he (she? didn't read that carefully) didn't vocalize difficulties until they became severe
|
|
Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
|
|
|
May 23, 2017 - 06:05pm PT
|
I am glad everyone came out ok,
Good thoughts above
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
May 23, 2017 - 06:09pm PT
|
Nice tr...beautiful pictures. Thanks!
|
|
SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
|
|
|
May 23, 2017 - 06:16pm PT
|
Wow.
So glad for your buddy.
A memorable trip for so many reasons!!!
Susan
|
|
crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
|
|
|
May 23, 2017 - 07:32pm PT
|
Nice TR. Glad your friend is OK. I've done variations of your trip and yes, feels remote out there.
|
|
rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
|
|
|
May 23, 2017 - 07:38pm PT
|
Too bad you couldn't have talked the pilot into landing you on a peak for some more runs...
|
|
Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
|
|
|
May 23, 2017 - 08:29pm PT
|
Fun was had, nobody died. Good work!
I would love to do that run.
|
|
Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
|
|
|
May 23, 2017 - 08:58pm PT
|
Thanks for posting, love that zone....hope your partner is doing well.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
|
|
|
May 23, 2017 - 09:08pm PT
|
Whoah. Things can get real "real" out there really fast. So glad all turned out well. Thanks for the report and the fantastic photos. Nice work on Darwin by the way.
Scott
|
|
bradL
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, NV
|
|
Author's Reply
|
May 23, 2017 - 09:22pm PT
|
Thanks for the comments and well wishes, everybody.
Acclimatization went as:
Day 0 Sea Level
Day 1 Drive to 9000' and camp
Day 2 Climb to 12,500' and camp at 11,400'
Day 3 Symptoms first appear
Day 4 Evac...
Communication may have played a role on Day 3 with our friend being a bit too stoic for his own good. By that point we had really already committed to the route, so better communication alone wouldn't have completely solved the problem.
|
|
Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
|
|
|
May 23, 2017 - 09:30pm PT
|
thanks for the share and glad things worked out.
Man there is a LOT of snow up there!
|
|
Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
|
|
|
May 23, 2017 - 09:47pm PT
|
regarding the sickness -- would you elaborate your acclimatization schedule?
Classic Cali no schedule . . . HAPE symptoms can occur as low as 8000 feet in elevation . . . mountains are hazardous and beautiful.
|
|
Flyboy
Trad climber
|
|
Many years ago on an attempted ascent of Whitney East Face I got severe Cerebral Edema. I was young a very fit. The literature then said it tended to hit young, fit males harder than others. We had to abandon the attempt. The next time I took Diamox and it was a wonder drug. Scampered up like a mountain goat. Funny, the older I got, the less of an issue it became.
|
|
Q- Ball
Mountain climber
but to scared to climb them anymore
|
|
Glad he is going to be alright!
I know a former Everest guy that got cerebral edema on a hike at just 10,000 ft. You just never know...take care all!
Q
|
|
guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
|
|
Wonderful TR!
|
|
Mike Dahlquist
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
You see the big pile of burned trash (including what looked like plastic) that some a$$holes left next to the frozen lake down below Lamarck Col in Darwin Canyon?
|
|
|
|
|
Recent Trip Reports
- The Kohala Ditch Trail: 36ish hrs on foot... to and from the headwaters. [5 of 5]
May 31, 2019; 11:57pm
- A Winter Traverse of the California section of the PCT Part 8
May 31, 2019; 11:18pm
- Supertopo,A trip report for posterity
May 31, 2019; 11:00pm
- Balch Fest 2013. Two Days in and Around and On The Flake. The Official Trip Report
May 31, 2019; 10:57pm
- TR: My visit to the Canoe
May 31, 2019; 10:24pm
- Death, Alpine Climbing, The Shield on El Cap
May 31, 2019; 4:07pm
- Andy Nisbet (1953-2019)
May 31, 2019; 2:11pm
- Drama on Baboquivari Peak
May 31, 2019; 1:19pm
- Joffre + The Aemmer Couloir: ski descents come unexpected catharsis [part 2]
May 31, 2019; 7:45am
- Lost To The Sea, by Disaster Master
May 30, 2019; 5:36am
- My Up And Down Life, Disaster Master
May 29, 2019; 11:44pm
- Halibut Hats and Climbers-What Gives?
May 29, 2019; 7:24pm
- G Rubberfat Overhang-First Ascent 1961
May 29, 2019; 12:28pm
- Coonyard Pinnacle 50 Years Later
May 29, 2019; 12:24pm
- Great Pumpkin with Mr Kamps and McClinsky- 1971
May 29, 2019; 12:02pm
- View more trip reports >
|