Trip Report
FA of Effervescent Glory (Wi0)
Tuesday January 31, 2012 2:15pm
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Sometimes one just needs a different perspective on climbing in order to see the potential for a new route. The Chief helped me realize a new way of looking at ice climbing during an exchange of ideas on SummitPost as to whether steepness had anything to do with the difficulty of an ice climb.
What ever BOB PICKERING.
... steepness really has absolutely nothing to do with difficulty.
Over and out BOB PICKERING.
The Chief
In the spirit of this comment, I went out and did a FA of a pretty difficult ice line. I think I'd rate it Wi0 (Walkable ice, 0).
[ Click to View YouTube Video]
It was a cold December morning and the ice had formed thick on the route. For safety I made an anchor of two stacked logs on shore, in the event that the ice failed me. Eventually I ran out of rope, and in order to push the route to a logical conclusion on a nice lake ledge, I risked life and limb, cast off the rope, and soloed through the final ice bulge crux.
The climb was a great workout, and a big success.
Now be warned that although I've conservatively rated the climb at Wi0, the rating is a bit sandbagged and is not without dangers and a need to exercise caution.
I dunno Mark, that ice was pretty slippery! Wi4 at least!And I [fell] on my butt at least once!
Another brave adventurer had this to add:
I nearly pulled some muscles trying to not fall on my ass. It's best to stretch out properly before attempting the lake! Also I think the psychological duress of the loud cracking and whoomping sounds should be taken into consideration when rating walkable ice.
If you listened closely, the lake did make some interesting booming noises each time my pick slammed into the ice.
Where to next? The potential of where our climbing can take us is only limited by our imaginations. There are all sorts of potential for other climbing ascents rated without regard to steepness.
Links
Personal Website
PellucidWombat
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About the Author PellucidWombat is a mountain climber from Berkeley, CA. |
Comments
PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Jan 31, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
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True. My footwork could use some improvement. I'm really not staying off my arms too well.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 31, 2012 - 03:13pm PT
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I really hope The Chief is very proud!
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Nate Ricklin
climber
San Diego
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Jan 31, 2012 - 03:19pm PT
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HAHAHA awesome. The Chief is such a d#@&%e.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jan 31, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
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Proud. You fired that line with no bivy?
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Jan 31, 2012 - 03:36pm PT
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I was tempted to take a nap partway through, but I pushed on.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Jan 31, 2012 - 03:48pm PT
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Wombad, youz one bad AZZ muthr fukr!
Way to own it!
-E
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cleo
Social climber
wherever you go, there you are
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Jan 31, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
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That was me, I fell on my butt. I also feel on my butt.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Jan 31, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
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I figured I'd keep you anonymous to protect the innocent. :-D
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YoungGun
climber
North
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Jan 31, 2012 - 04:43pm PT
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Wow, sure didn't place many screws on that... :)
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snowey
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jan 31, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
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Awesome TR! I started that post on Summitpost and was amazed to see it move where it did.
Congrats on your new line. (I really like the name BTW).
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RoryKuykendall
Mountain climber
Telluride, CO
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Jan 31, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
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Well played. But those moves look a little painful bro.
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Jan 31, 2012 - 06:27pm PT
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Fun!
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Gene
climber
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Jan 31, 2012 - 06:37pm PT
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I am so pleased that all that the training and determination exhibited on the Geochronology Wall has paid off so splendidly.
I just hope you aren’t even thinking about Pothole Dome alpine style. The potential glory is not even close to being worth the struggle.
g
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rwedgee
Ice climber
CA
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Jan 31, 2012 - 07:19pm PT
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Consensus seems to be the chief IS a d#@&%e.
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Dos XX
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jan 31, 2012 - 07:35pm PT
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I did notice one rookie mistake at 2:12, when the rope got looped behind your leg; you fall when it's like that, man, and your'e inverted and airborne all at the same time...scary sh*t! But you recovered nicely and that last, ropeless dash to the finish was inspirational.
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Nastia
Ice climber
Portland, OR
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Jan 31, 2012 - 08:22pm PT
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Sick sendage Mark! So proud of you.
But keep your focus on the plane-to-plane project:
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jan 31, 2012 - 08:52pm PT
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Love it, Mark.
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Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
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Jan 31, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
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Oh man what huevos climbing with an anchor of two stacked logs! I salute you. Thanks for the fun TR
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Zander
climber
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Jan 31, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
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So sweet!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Jan 31, 2012 - 11:39pm PT
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And about those "enhancements"...
This thread belongs right up there with "Wings of Plywood", and the one about hooking at lunch hour at school.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Feb 1, 2012 - 12:01am PT
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I'll have you know I did that hooking on my lunch break from work! ;-)
I do recommend an insulated cup for the "enhancements" in climbing this route.
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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I admire the purity of style, eschewing the reliance on aid like crampons. The next ethical evolution is growing long fingernails and ditching the axes.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Feb 1, 2012 - 03:34pm PT
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Aren't clothes considered aid, too?
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Feb 1, 2012 - 08:43pm PT
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Looks like the Terl outfit would keep your head warm too. It's cold down in those lake-filled valleys. It looks like they even have a head start on the ice tool replacements :-D
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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DOOODE! I am so in awe of your dry & sick humour----and --like totally consumed with envy!
I did turn the sound-track off.
Sorry, but classical music was needed for that endevour.
Thank you for amusing us!
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Feb 2, 2012 - 02:05am PT
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Perhaps "Ride of the Valkyries" will be in the next video? I can think of some good types of climbing for that music :-)
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Feb 20, 2012 - 04:33pm PT
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From Bruce Kay:
Pellucid Wombat, Sorry for the thread drift but I was wondering if you could provide a bit more beta on the Tenaya Lake FWA (Incidentally, somehow this has missed the radar of the alpine intelligentsia - perhaps something to do with all that brou haha in patagonia). I'm just loading up the van to burn down and nab the second ascent ( I hope)
1) In your estimation what was more dangerous, crossing the highway or avoiding collision with mother and pram? How often are you likely to encounter that particular mother or for that matter, any other?
2) Again, not to belabor the point but don't you think rapping the route would be less hazardous than navigating the shore line? (unless its windy, or too many prams and mothers) Or by walking, do you mean you actually walked straight back down your line of ascent?
3) Finally, would you think a solo to be within the realm of the possible?
Once again good effort. It shows where a little visionary "outside the box" thinking can take you (No offense! I mean this in a positive way). I hope you don't mind but i sent your video off to Alpinist. Nice job on that retaining wall by the way!
1) Definitely the pram. If that thing got loose from the mother, you'd have to move pretty deftly to avoid getting hit!
2) The extreme angle of the route makes rappels tricky. You'd either need some tension assistance or down-lead on rappel. I found walking sideways from the route to be the easiest way off as that was the shortest line back to shore. Just take care with the shoreline - the crumpled ice could be tricky!
3) Did you not see the final bit of soloing to reach the ledge? The route can certainly be soloed by the truly twisted.
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bparry
Trad climber
Branford, CT
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Feb 20, 2012 - 06:56pm PT
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Apparently, still awaiting a leashless ascent, folks...
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 26, 2012 - 11:55am PT
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Wow.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Feb 26, 2012 - 01:14pm PT
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N ice route.
I might even have a shot at that one!
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part-time communist
Mountain climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 26, 2012 - 01:26pm PT
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Have you ever gotten laid?
LOL
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Feb 26, 2012 - 01:51pm PT
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Was whiskey involved in this project???
Awesome send!!!
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Feb 26, 2012 - 02:28pm PT
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That first screw looked like nothing but mental pro.
Way proud bro.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 25, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
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Anyone been out to do a second ascent of this thing this year? I think the grade needs verification.
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Jan 25, 2013 - 03:57pm PT
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I tried it with my kids belaying me last year, but I bailed before I could get in my first piece of pro. Too sketchy.
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Snowmassguy
Trad climber
Calirado
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Jan 25, 2013 - 04:46pm PT
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I tried this a few years ago. Had a leader fall after too much to drink and dinged my tailbone pretty bad. a couple years of rehab and a persistent goal to return and CONQUER it was the only thing that kept me going. Last winter season, I free soloed it. Conditions were a bit fatter than your ascent so the crux was a bit easier. Car to car in 28 minutes. It was a transformational moment for me as I reached the upper banks and took in the view. Thank You ! Your beta was helpful and I could not have done it with out your vision to open up such a difficult yet rewarding climb.
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The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
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Jan 25, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
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I am surprised you did not place some Screamers along with screws. Or was there one in the pram?
Sick TR, way to get after it!
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Author's Reply
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Jan 25, 2013 - 06:20pm PT
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Oh, I most definitely placed Screamers (red). I wasn't going to take any chances on this route!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Jan 26, 2013 - 12:11pm PT
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Hope you took a rest day, you earned it!!!!!!!
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melski
Trad climber
bytheriver
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Jan 27, 2013 - 06:49pm PT
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you got me on this one,,your visonary insight is without piers,,really,,,,
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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You f*#king kids who think you're so hot.
We did that thing before you were born. And we didn't have any of your fancy modern gadgets like crampons or those tiny little sissy "ice axes" you use. Me and me mates were capable of proper ice-work and chopped steps the whole way. Although I will admit that because it was slightly steep, we did use slater's picks rather than our usual long axes for the overhead cutting. Not entirely sporting, I'll admit, but moreso than this nonsense with nylon ropes and bespoke equipment.
Right, and we didn't go telling every Tom, Dick, and Harry about it, neither. Kept it to ourselves, we did.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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What were you drinking? Rye?
Rye? Well that's about what one has come to expect from you colonials. But of course we weren't drinking rye. Whatever that is. Wrapped a small flask of hot malt whisky up in me sporran, as usual.
Reminds me though of one expedition we undertook to your mountains. For some reason we thought it might be entertaining to bring along a local and show him what real climbing was about. Stupid bugger brought along a blended whiskey. A blended whiskey. Couldn't believe it. We dropped him and his bloody blend into a crevasse.
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matisse
climber
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so sorry I missed this the first time.
respect -----> fist bump.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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May 15, 2014 - 08:15pm PT
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GNAR
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