I first heard of the Finger of Fate from John Frieh, a total bad a$$ alpinist I climbed with at the city of rocks in April of 2010 or so. John said something like, it’s one of the best climbs I’ve ever done, and it’s only 5.8.

More on the 5.8 part later.

One of my regular climbing partners Matt L and I had the opportunity to climb it this Monday. We were more then a little apprehensive about the fires that are ragin in the area, so far 1.5 million acres have burned in Idaho this season, more then any other state. Other then a little smoke and diminished views, it wasn’t a problem. We left East Idaho at 2 pm or so on Sunday and after picking up a half case of Pabst Blue ribbon in Arco (is there a more depressing town any where?) we managed to make Stanley in time for dinner at the burger joint. I talked to two paramedics who were working with the fire crews, they said the fires were expected to burn until snowfall.

We made it up to the upper Hell-roaring lake trail head, in day light, it is a very rough road, with 4-low almost required (unless you hate your car).

We had a few beers and no fire (sadly a burning ban was in place), camping sucks with out a fire.

Sunset day 1


I got up at 5:30 and read a book, Matt fought the urge to stay in his bag, and arose grudgingly at 6:30. It was Still 23 degres when we left at 8 am on the trail head. It was a 5.5 mile approach up 2000+ vertical gain past some stunning country to the base of the route, prolly took us 3.5 hours from the upper trail head.


A beautiful upper unnamed lake a perfect camping spot!!!

This grouse almost scared me senseless on the approach!

East face up close

I got the first lead.
Looking Down p1


The Open book had some serious off width for which I employed my number 5 camalot, as I am a chicken sh*t for sure!!!


I started out really cold it was probably 30 degrees in the shade at 11 am when we started, but was sweating profusely by the end of pitch1
Up p2, Pitch two was stellar and also requried the#4 and #5 camalot (new sizes)

Mid way up pitch two we found a really cool crystal cave mid route, Awesome!!!

down p2


down p5

Pitch 6 had no protection at all in 100 feet and required tunneling under a huge block and then a 45 foot unprotectable 5.8+ arette, with massive exposuure.



We topped out at 3:15 were back at the base at 4:15 and at the car at 6:30 and were thankful for the uneventful drive home, over all a Stellar route with a great partner for sure!!!! One of my best routes yet!!!