Trip Report
First trip to the Valley!
Tuesday September 8, 2015 8:19am
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So I know many of you are seasoned climbers and have climbed a lot in Yosemite. This was our first trip. I cannot begin to tell you how amazing this trip was for me.
Brief backstory: I had a reoccurring dream 4 nights in a row. The dream was that I was across from "El Cap". Each subsequent dream, I moved closer and closer until I touched the base. Woke up the morning of that dream, then purchased my ticket.
TL;DR: Dreams about El Cap=purchasing tickets
Got into SF at about noon and decided to go up to Muir Woods National Monument. I had never seen any red woods before, so this was a must do. Needless to say, it started the trip off proper. To be in the presence of these giants was nothing short of amazing.
After that, we started our drive to the valley. We got in at about 2 am. The super moon barely lighting the valley and giving me a little sneak peek of what I would witness the next morning. Pulled out our sleeping bags and go into line at around 4am. We were the first.
We decided to spend our first day exploring instead of trying to climb. We were totally assed out from the journey. So we drove around and just took in the sheer size and beauty of the valley. Ended up setting up a hammock across from El Cap. Took a nap, had some lunch, and just took it all in.
Next day we decided to hit up "After 6". There was not a single party to be seen except for the one a few pitches above. Being our first taste of the valley, it was a good one. The first pitch was an eye opener for us. Like everyone has said, this is a different type of climbing we are not accustomed to in the south east.
After our eye opening first climb, we decided to treat ourselves to an "It's-it". Everything I have heard was true. They are a gift from the heavens and much welcomed after a good days climb.
The next day we decided to hit up "Regular Route" to start the day. Such a fun climb. Again, there was not a single party to be seen except a pitch above us. At pitch 2, we were passed by a free solo climber.
We got back to camp and spoke with a climber, who was camped at the site next to us. He was a seasoned climber in the valley and offered to take us up another climb, Munginilla. As first time leaders, it was definitely taxing mentally to ensure proper placement of gear and getting used to how Yosemite felt. So we jumped on the opportunity to just follow and truly enjoy the cimb, bought him a 6 pack, and rolled out.
Overall, this trip was exactly what I thought it would be and more. 3 days in the valley isn't nearly enough. However, I'm glad I got that time there. We will definitely be back sooner rather than later. As I'm sure you all know, that place is just amazing. To finally lay eyes on half dome and el cap was inspiring to say the least.
Thank you to everyone who gave me feedback and input on the valley. Your help was greatly appreciated. I hope you enjoyed the TR from the eyes of someone for the first time. I cannot wait to get back and take on more. Climb on!
jmacrosoft
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About the Author jmacrosoft is a sport climber from Atlanta, GA. |
Comments
Late Starter
Social climber
NA
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Nice trip report...As an inspiring 1st timer it's nice to get that perspective.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Awesome! F'ing loved it. Good vibes.
How long til your next visit, and what's on the agenda for next time?
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MikeMc
climber
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Nice TR thanks. I remember my first visit to the valley; even growing up in Idyllwild, with all that stone, I was simply blown away the immensity of the place.
Look forward to reading next years TR
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hamersorethumb
Trad climber
Menlo Park, CA
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Awesome, thanks for sharing. Hope you come back soon.
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jmacrosoft
Sport climber
Atlanta, GA
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Author's Reply
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Sep 8, 2015 - 11:03am PT
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Thanks for all the good vibes! It was truly an inspiring trip. I'm hoping to get back around the same time next year. Weather was perfect and the routes (at least the ones we did) were not crowded at all. Camp 4 had plenty of room too.
Hoping to up it a bit and do snake dike and possibly nut cracker. There are a few spots out here where I can work on some trad AND crack climbing types. Hopefully I'll be much more comfortable next go round.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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You DID do more than those two routes, I should hope.
TFPU.
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Nice report! Cool to see the Valley through your eyes. After 6, Sunnyside bench, and the Munge are good intros. Come back for a longer stay next trip.
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jmacrosoft
Sport climber
Atlanta, GA
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Author's Reply
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Sep 8, 2015 - 11:13am PT
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We ended up doing 3. After 6, Regular Route, and Munganilla. 3 days wasn't enough. We were so exhausted from the flights and driving that our first day was just a day to soak it all up. Next trip will be longer and more routes will be done for sure.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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First time in The Ditch stoke. Thanks for sharing.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Nice work! So stoked for you. Yosemite is the magnetic center of the climbing universe, looks like you had a great first trip. I see yall are from the ATL. I lived in Auburn, AL then Augusta GA for years. Missed Calif the whole time but loved my time in the south.
Climbed all over during my years there, Tallulah Gorge, Currahee, Yonah, T-wall, Foster Falls, HP 40, Whitesides, Looking Glass, Crowder's, Linville Gorge. The South is blessed with sooo much good stone.
Here's a shot from Tallulah Gorge. Sometimes I miss that place.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Thanks for the TR. It brought back great memories of my first year climbing in the Valley. After Six and the Regular Route (I assume you mean of Sunnyside Bench) were some of the first ones I did in the 1960's, and stoked a fire that I haven't quenched decades later. (I didn't do Munginella until the "new" guide came out in 1971. It wasn't in the "old" guide).
I hope this trip is the first many more for you.
John
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jmacrosoft
Sport climber
Atlanta, GA
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Author's Reply
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Sep 8, 2015 - 12:53pm PT
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Micronut - Haven't been that way yet but I'm planning too soon. I've hit up HP40, Boatrock, Lake Nicjack (deep water solo action), Sandrock, and Foster Falls. It's on my list though.
Thanks for the TR. It brought back great memories of my first year climbing in the Valley. After Six and the Regular Route (I assume you mean of Sunnyside Bench) were some of the first ones I did in the 1960's, and stoked a fire that I haven't quenched decades later. (I didn't do Munginella until the "new" guide came out in 1971. It wasn't in the "old" guide).
I hope this trip is the first many more for you.
John
I love that! Climbing routes that have so much history and so many others have climbed before me and will climb after me. Something so special about the valley!
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Very nice. Hit Tuolumne Meadows next visit.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Nice job, always good to climb some where new!!!!
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L
climber
Just livin' the dream
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Really nice TR.
I loved the Redwoods shot!!!!
Thanks for posting.
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storer
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Thanks for upbeat report on your first valley climb. My first was the usual Sunnyside Bench in 1961. Bowline-on-a-coil with Columbia white or, the more modern Goldline it was then. New to climbing so Red Wing boots, Dulfer Sitz rappel with Prusik knot backup.
The next day we were joined by Warren Harding on the Death Slabs up to the NW Face of Half Dome. Whoa, scared sh*tless, little water (Warren was in training), Down the falls trail in the moonlight. Hooked on rock climbing.
By the way later re Mungenella I asked Jim Bridwell for what is now called beta, an unknown term then or at least I had never heard it. He put his two fists together, knuckles to knuckles, to describe two nearly spherical chockstones which were wedged in a crack about twice the sum of their diameters. He admonished, "I wouldn't tie those off even though it might look inviting." Sure enough we found them (couldn't be missed, they were right in the crack). When thumped they resonated. I have always wondered how it happened: rattle rattle rattle simultaneously then stick? But probably both in a mud matrix long since washed away. Are they still there?
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Good on ya---El Cap sure is big---always took me a little time just to get the perspective of it all
Beer on the Crags? "a tradition unlike any other..........."
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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I once had a nightmare that began like this ...
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jmacrosoft
Sport climber
Atlanta, GA
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Author's Reply
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Sep 9, 2015 - 06:01am PT
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Thanks for upbeat report on your first valley climb. My first was the usual Sunnyside Bench in 1961. Bowline-on-a-coil with Columbia white or, the more modern Goldline it was then. New to climbing so Red Wing boots, Dulfer Sitz rappel with Prusik knot backup.
The next day we were joined by Warren Harding on the Death Slabs up to the NW Face of Half Dome. Whoa, scared sh*tless, little water (Warren was in training), Down the falls trail in the moonlight. Hooked on rock climbing.
By the way later re Mungenella I asked Jim Bridwell for what is now called beta, an unknown term then or at least I had never heard it. He put his two fists together, knuckles to knuckles, to describe two nearly spherical chockstones which were wedged in a crack about twice the sum of their diameters. He admonished, "I wouldn't tie those off even though it might look inviting." Sure enough we found them (couldn't be missed, they were right in the crack). When thumped they resonated. I have always wondered how it happened: rattle rattle rattle simultaneously then stick? But probably both in a mud matrix long since washed away. Are they still there?
WOW! Thanks for sharing. Climbing with Warren AND getting "beta" from Bridwell? That is awesome! I didn't see them honestly. Next time I will go looking for them.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Good choice of climbs. Thanks for sharing this TR.
Did you go touch the base of El Cap?
Along with Snake Dike, Royal Arches is another classic, must do, moderate. It's about 15 pitches so it's even more important to be efficient and quick with your multi pitch skills, buts it's not as exposed and has a super short approach.
Summer is a god d time to avoid crowds in the valley and being from the southeast you are probably okay with the heat.
There's never enough time in the valley.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
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Wonderful trip report! Your enthusiasm just comes barreling through.
I chuckle at After Six! It ranks right up there of sandbag climbs in Yose.
I characterize it as so polished it's ready for someone's kitchen counter!
Some up threads have given you great ideas for your next trip.
Your Camp 4 lineup was spot on!
Thanks again for a great share
Susan
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jmacrosoft
Sport climber
Atlanta, GA
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Author's Reply
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Sep 9, 2015 - 10:33am PT
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Did you go touch the base of El Cap?
I did indeed! Watched a group pull the "great roof" as well.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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WOOHOO!
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