Trip Report
Gabel/Dignes Mosstrum/Supernova Wall Yosemite

by bob
Friday August 8, 2014 8:13pm
Gabel/Dignes
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A bit shaky, but gives the general line.
A bit shaky, but gives the general line.
Credit: bob
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Coming to Yosemite on the 140 brings people in front of Elephant Rock, The Rostrum, and a cache of other fine cliffs that are pleasing to most viewers eyes regardless of whether they climb or not.

One of these cliffs in particular, is The Mosstrum, or Supernova Wall. Its the huge silver shield left of the Rostrum Buttress.

My mind always wondered what was up there. Look at it!!!!! There has to be something.

I've been on a kick lately of at least dreaming of doing a bunch of obscure routes . Eric Gabel is one of the folks who have really been generous with their time to fill me in on some things.

The "Gabel/Dignes" had caught my eye a while back through conversations here on ST and just plain snooping around websites to come up with a topo and such. Thanks Clint.
Sure enough this thing goes up some of the meat of the formation. Basically starting from the toe of the buttress.

This is not a free route in its entirety. If a climber is one who likes the challenge of how to move through terrain while mixing free and shenanigans climbing, then this route is definitely for them. Don't get me wrong, the bulk of this route is free climbing. As in 98% free climbing. I freed a little more than had been, victoriously upping the climb's free percentage by an enormous 1%. YEAH!!!!!!!! :-/ Oh, and there is the pushing out from what's left of a tree about a 3rd of the way up the 3rd pitch. So extended is the climber simply trying to get a piece in under the roof that is about to be given a thorough undercling. Whew, groin stretcher! My partner couldn't even reach. I'm 6'2.
Also, there are a few Dr. Seuss tree pulls here and there just because they are there.

This route puts all the challenges forth to the climber. Challenging many a Yosemite skill and, at least for me, then some was called upon! It would have been nice to have some dome time up high, or some slabbing in the ditch first because this thing gets tradski face style and thus had me slightly pissing myself on the 3rd pitch.

This route is also characterized by clean climbing (after first pitch), but mossy ass cracks which gave my hands some of the softest jams ever. Loose Jammies if you will. I couldn't imagine doing this one wet.
There were some of the funkiest features too that tested OW skills right along with slab, and micro jamming. All in one. I have a wound on my right shoulder from a feature called "The Half Pipe." Or, was it from the "easiest" pitch on the route at 5.8 wide. Oh good golly I was puffin on that one!!!!!

The topo is quite adequate. It was taken from Clints site and this particular routes topo has been publicly available.
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Credit: Eric Gabel
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If you like adventure and some really good climbing on surprisingly good rock then I suggest this route.

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Start of first pitch.  Looking fuzzy!
Start of first pitch. Looking fuzzy!
Credit: bob
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Following.  Looking like the rock is getting better.  Though fuzzy in ...
Following. Looking like the rock is getting better. Though fuzzy in the crack above.
Credit: bob
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Tough 5.9 on pitch two.
Tough 5.9 on pitch two.
Credit: bob
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Slick and old school.   Stay calm.  Pitch 3
Slick and old school. Stay calm. Pitch 3
Credit: bob
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"The Half Pipe"   Great fuzzy jams, solid lay backs, and some truly fu...
"The Half Pipe" Great fuzzy jams, solid lay backs, and some truly funky stuff to stay put and progress in the upper portion. Pitch 5
Credit: bob
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looking down great stem box.  The crack right of the follower is rated...
looking down great stem box. The crack right of the follower is rated 5.8 and was one of the hardest parts of the climb for me. Pitch 6
Credit: bob
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Tons of sweet soft and fuzzy jams with sharp lay backs.  Since the fac...
Tons of sweet soft and fuzzy jams with sharp lay backs. Since the face pitch the rock has really improved. Pitch 7
Credit: bob
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This tree was so happy for us  that its head blew off, it threw its ha...
This tree was so happy for us that its head blew off, it threw its hands in the air, and sported a pinky for us. Happy tree. Just like a lab after swimming.
Credit: bob
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This is the last pitch mega butt shot.  It was surprisingly steep with...
This is the last pitch mega butt shot. It was surprisingly steep with tenuous tree yanking to a fuzzy wuzzy hard roof problem. Cranker. Pitch 8
Credit: bob
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Even with glasses, the moss build up in the eyes, ears, etc was presen...
Even with glasses, the moss build up in the eyes, ears, etc was present while belaying the leader.
Credit: bob
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Cascade Falls
Cascade Falls
Credit: bob
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Sun. We got sun.
Sun. We got sun.
Credit: bob
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The flowers that grow from the moss are beautiful indeed.
The flowers that grow from the moss are beautiful indeed.
Credit: bob
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This is my partner Josie.  She's totally badass.  If you ever have tro...
This is my partner Josie. She's totally badass. If you ever have trouble on a cliff you might get saved by her. Seriously.
Credit: bob
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Hope you enjoy.

Bob Jensen

  Trip Report Views: 3,654
bob
About the Author
bob is a climber from .Near the Ditch

Comments
whitemeat

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
  Aug 8, 2014 - 08:35pm PT
Good on ya! Looks like some fun times!

TFPU
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Aug 8, 2014 - 09:32pm PT
Super cool
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
  Aug 8, 2014 - 09:49pm PT
good times, thanks for the share.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Aug 8, 2014 - 10:01pm PT
proud!
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Aug 8, 2014 - 10:09pm PT
Best TR ever.
Hey, I might be able to follow that. Or not.
E Robinson

Trad climber
Salinas, CA
  Aug 8, 2014 - 10:11pm PT
Nice!
RP3

Big Wall climber
Newbury Park
  Aug 8, 2014 - 10:31pm PT
So any people have looked at that wall for so long. Those features are larger in your pics than I imagined them. Congrats to you and congrats to Eric on another fantastic looking line.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Aug 8, 2014 - 10:44pm PT
Way cool. Thanks for the photo tour on this climb that I've looked at from across the valley for so long.
WBraun

climber
  Aug 8, 2014 - 10:45pm PT
I been down that wall years ago.

I did second ascent of SuperNova.

That upper wall sucks. I rappelled down a couple hundred feet to check out what "looked" like good cracks.

They were filled with sh!t as I climbed back out.

Never ever wanted to go near the place ever again since there was so much better stuff around ....
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
  Aug 8, 2014 - 11:59pm PT
How did you get past pitch 4? Went up there a couple years ago and got stopped on pitch 4 after the traverse and left facing small corner. Is that the aid spot? Because I was under the impression that the route was all free. I feel better now, thought I was just being a pussy.

Wish I would have pulled through it and finished the route. Thanks for the TR.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Aug 9, 2014 - 09:46am PT
Anyone who has whiled some time away at Reeds, hanging at belays above the tree tops, has spent time looking at this line. I've stared at it for hours. It's like looking at the Elephant from the Cookie - your eyes get pulled in.

Goliath and the Mosstrum - hell f'n yeah. Nice, proud, adventurous work.
bob

climber
Author's Reply  Aug 10, 2014 - 08:22am PT
Sal, I traversed low off the first bolt with tip toe moves. From the second bolt I down climbed the trough slightly, then did a pretty hard series of moves out left to the base of the shallow corner. Stem/layback up until fist bolt of ladder and hang. Did a few more free moves then pulled through couple bolts in the meat of the ladder. Free climb after.

Werner, there is some good rock up there for sure, but yeah its full of stuff.

Kevin, Spirit of 76 looks cool. We just kept looking up there and wondering if something, somehow went up to those corners. Haunted House looks really fun too!

I was up on Hard Farm Labor (left of Rostrum) yesterday and spied the Supernova for hours. Those base routes up towards the cleft/recess between Supernova and Rostrum look pretty dang nice.

The Peregrine's were a joy to watch. Until one sh#t on my partner just to let us know who was boss. Stinky!!!!!


I'm glad folks are enjoying this share.

Peace.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Aug 10, 2014 - 09:24am PT
Cool gardening ;)
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Aug 10, 2014 - 12:27pm PT
the rock at the base, from the Rostrum alcove up to the eastern margin, is beautiful, bullet proof and smooth.

amazing stuff of dreams...

and then there are the golf balls, and tires littering the forest down there, along with other flotsam and jetsam from the rim... even the occasional pigeon foot band, leftovers of a sort, hey, maybe they should make those edible...

If you go, be respectful of the fact that the ground is loose and it's easy to make a mess traipsing around. Go with a light foot.

I don't think it is destined to be an "in spot" simply because the times of the year that make for easy access are those with a low river when crossing is possible.

For those that go, "fly your freak flag high" as if six were nine...
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Aug 10, 2014 - 10:02pm PT
I did enjoy! Love the obscurities and reading a wall I was curious about too. Thanks!
covelocos

Trad climber
  Aug 11, 2014 - 10:26pm PT
The selfie is the best part.
David Wilson

climber
CA
  Jan 19, 2015 - 10:43am PT
bump for Bob and the pursuit of obscurity ! this one looks good
Don Paul

Social climber
Washington DC
  Jan 19, 2015 - 12:47pm PT
This is what rock climbing is all about.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Jan 19, 2015 - 05:29pm PT
love me some fur jams!
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Jan 19, 2015 - 05:51pm PT
Josie Bump!
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Jan 20, 2015 - 06:23am PT
Cool!
NutAgain!

Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
  Jan 20, 2015 - 01:47pm PT
GNARLY! This is smack dab in the middle of prime (and up until recently or only with the exception of hushed whispers) uncharted valley territory.
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