Trip Report
Gettin' a lil' Shuteye
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Friday August 16, 2013 12:35am
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tuolumne_tradster
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About the Author
tuolumne_tradster is an aging trad climber from the leading edge of the North American Plate |
Comments
Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Aug 16, 2013 - 09:04am PT
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Looks like huge fun, Tradster. Thanks for posting. I'm not doing much climbing this year, but Shuteye is on the list for next season!
BAd
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Aug 16, 2013 - 11:44am PT
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Right on Vic! Nice to see you had a great time up there. Little crowded, huh?
Justin
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Author's Reply
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Aug 16, 2013 - 12:35pm PT
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Justin: thanks for the beta and encouragement to check out Shuteye. This is the 1st time I've ever spent a weekend of climbing in California, even in the high Sierras, without running into other people. Not that I'm anti-social but its nice to get away from the crowds every once and awhile.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Aug 16, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
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No problem, anytime. Thanks for the tr.
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bpope
climber
Mountain View, CA
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Aug 16, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
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That corner looks very, very fun.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Author's Reply
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Aug 16, 2013 - 11:10pm PT
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OK Jeremy...it's on the list.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Aug 17, 2013 - 12:09am PT
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Glad you and Frank had a good time.
Shuteye is a lot of fun, so many good routes of all kinds.
Willy Nilly is really cool, don't forget to traverse out of the dihedral and up the thin crack though! and bring a couple big pieces for the top. This route isn't as straight forward as it look from the bottom!
You gotta hit the Ross bros Eagle's Nest too across the ridge from Croc. Super climbing there!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 17, 2013 - 02:20am PT
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Quit gloating, y'all. The last photo is too cruel, and Slater's comments make it even better/worse. I'ld be a little nervous heading up that.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Author's Reply
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Aug 17, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
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Have cams. Will sew.
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sheepdog
Trad climber
just over the hill
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Aug 17, 2013 - 09:20pm PT
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Looks excellent TT... That photo of Willy Nilly makes me want to get in the car now!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Aug 17, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
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This TR put me to sl
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Aug 17, 2013 - 09:33pm PT
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Not really. All the years I've wasted not climbing I could have been going there? And it's so close, too.
Sh#t.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Aug 17, 2013 - 09:36pm PT
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MORE!!!
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Author's Reply
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Aug 18, 2013 - 12:03am PT
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OK here are a couple more photos of Afternoon Nap. The crux is getting over the right slanting arch just left of center. Then it goes up to the belly button at the base of the runnel that splits the upper half of the face.
Here's what the runnel face near the top looks like. Knobs, chicken heads, plates, etc everywhere. This is a common and distinctive feature of Shuteye Ridge granite texture. Similar to the money pitch on Hobbit Book.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Aug 19, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
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Cool, thanks!!!!!
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FBaker
Trad climber
Concord, Ca
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Sep 12, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
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Vic, Great trip report. Sure had a good time!
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Author's Reply
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Oct 13, 2013 - 12:24am PT
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We went back to Shuteye last weekend to do Moonlight Madness and Willy Nilly. Shuteye is a great alternative to Yosemite during the Govt shutdown.
Frank Baker at camp after a day of climbing on Big Sleep Dome.
Moonlight Madness just above the friction move crux getting to the easy roof. After that runnels & chicken heads abound.
Here's the roof from below...photo Frank Baker
Me, Frank, Sean & Vito on the summit of Big Sleep
John leading Willy Nilly Crocodile Dome. This 5.8 pitch is sustained and harder than any pitch on Moonlight Madness.
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RyanD
climber
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Oct 12, 2013 - 03:22am PT
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Wow, that's gotta be some of the most beautiful rock i have ever seen. Really cool, thanks!
Those steep face climbs look like an incredible good time.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Oct 12, 2013 - 01:16pm PT
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How bad is the last bit of 4x4 road to get there?
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Author's Reply
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Oct 12, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
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Not bad at all. I made it there in my Toyota van. There are a couple of deep ruts you have to straddle.
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cragnshag
Social climber
Gilroy
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Oct 12, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
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Not bad, you can make it with 2wd and OK clearance to the camping area. Then just walk from there to the end of the road (less than 1/4 mile). Or drive it with same car no problem- maybe some bushes might scrape your sides.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Author's Reply
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May 28, 2015 - 10:26pm PT
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Sunday of Memorial Day weekend was clear. I climbed Crossing the Milky Way 5.8 on Milky Way wall with Chris Schroeder. Another Shuteye quality route on excellent rock. The Knob Gobbler pitch was a blast. Photos courtesy Chris Schroeder.
p2 dihedral
p3
start of p4 Knob Gobbler
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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May 28, 2015 - 11:21pm PT
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Milky Way wall is out there a little ways, eh?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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May 28, 2015 - 11:27pm PT
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Another Shuteye quality route on excellent rock.
Is there any rock there that isn't excellent?? ;)
I love it there. Thanks for the pics
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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May 29, 2015 - 06:26am PT
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Man, that place looks great! Love the knobs and texture, and not having too many people around ranks high in my book. Gotta get off my ass and get Patty up there soon.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Author's Reply
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May 29, 2015 - 08:46am PT
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Trail head to Milky Way wall is on 7S02H ~ 1 mi from Big Sleep camp. Approach is well marked with cairns and took ~ 1 hr but I'm an old man. Descent was also well marked and took ~ 1.5 hrs back to the car but like I said I'm an old man and my knees are starting to feel the descents. We had the place to ourselves.
the occasional quartz vein cairn...
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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May 29, 2015 - 09:14am PT
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Awesome Vic, glad you finally made it out there. Any problems with bees? I've been attacked a few time in that area. Kinda early, but so dry, I bet they are already out.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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May 29, 2015 - 09:18am PT
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Thanks for the TR. Makes me wish I were there now.
John
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Author's Reply
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May 29, 2015 - 09:27am PT
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Justin: did not encounter bees but did come across a dead tree covered by ant colony. Be careful not to place your hand on ant covered dead trees for they can transfer to your hand in large numbers quickly.
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gnarlydog
Big Wall climber
Concord,Ca
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That was a fun trip Vic. We should head out there again soon.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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I missed this TR first time around. Nice to see. Thanks!
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